COSY CORNER BOULDERING MINI GUIDE REV 0 PAGE 1 OF 6 January 2013

COSY CORNER BOULDERING MINIGUIDE REVISION 0

View of Sector 1

Front boulders are around 5m height

COSY CORNER BOULDERING MINI GUIDE REV 0 PAGE 2 OF 6 January 2013

LOCALITY PLAN

Head south towards Augusta from Margaret River via Bussell Highway, cutting across to Caves Road

at / after Karridale (note Caves Road is actually a left turn at the intersection with Hamelin Bay

Road!). Turn right onto Cosy Corner Road. Drive to the very end of Cosy Corner Road (about 3.5km)

and park at the large car park with the fishermen at Knobby Head and enjoy(!) the 1.5km walk down

to the boulder areas along the beach, OR after about 2.3kms along Cosy Corner Road, there is a

4WD track (also part of it is the Cape to Cape track) on your left where you can pull in and park your

2WD urban vehicle behind some trees and walk the 4WD track (20 minutes at good pace). If you

have a real 4WD vehicle you can continue down the 4WD track. At the fork at the 1.3km mark take

the track that continues on towards the coast to get to the 4WD parking at the bouldering areas.

Taking the beach or Cape to Cape routes are longer. Do not camp here as the Ranger does do

inspections and has fined people. The walk out takes a bit longer as it is sandy and uphill.

AREA PLAN

Hamelin Bay Rd

Cosy Corner Rd

SECTOR 1

COSY CORNER

BOULDERING AREA

(Cape Hamelin)

TOILET FACILITIES

CAPE TO CAPE TRACK (SCENIC)

4WD TRACK

2WD PARKING

COSY CORNER RD

COSY CORNER PARKING AREA

4WD PARKING

SECTOR 2

SECTOR 3

SECTOR 4

COSY CORNER BOULDERING MINI GUIDE REV 0 PAGE 3 OF 6 January 2013

SECTORS

SECTOR 1 – Problems 1-20

SECTOR 1

18

19 20

13

17

15

16

14

4

12

11

7

9 10

6

8

5

2 3

1

4WD PARKING

CAPE TO CAPE TRACK

SECTOR 2

SECTOR 3

SECTOR 4

Problem Grade

# 1 V0/1

# 2 V5 **

# 2 alt Project

# 3 V4 **

# 4 V1

# 5 V0

# 6 V0

# 7 V4 ??

# 8 V2 *

# 9 Project

# 10 V6 ??

# 11 V1

# 12 V0

# 13 V2

# 13 alt V3

# 14 V3 **

# 15 V1

# 16 V1

# 17 V0

# 18 V0

# 19 V1

# 20 V5

Lots of V0 problems

throughout the sector

are not shown – have

a look around!

COSY CORNER BOULDERING MINI GUIDE REV 0 PAGE 4 OF 6 January 2013

SECTOR 2 – Problems 21-27

SECTOR 4 – Problems 31-34

SECTOR 3 – Problems 28-30

29 30

28

31

33

34

26

32

25

27

21

22 23

24

Problem Grade

# 21 V1

# 22 Project

# 23 V2 **

# 24 V1

# 25 V0

# 26 V3 **

# 27 V0

# 28 V7 ***

# 29 Project

# 30 V4 **

# 31 V1

# 32 V1

# 33 V0

# 34 V0

Lots of V0 problems

throughout the sector

are not shown – have

a look around!

COSY CORNER BOULDERING MINI GUIDE REV 0 PAGE 5 OF 6 January 2013

PROBLEMS 1 - 10

# 1 - V0/1 various warmups up well featured face Sit down starts. Try problem starting at bottom right hand side corner – interesting body positions @ V1.

# 2 - V5 ** SDS on low sloper - up scoops & right corner. Hard start. Harder for tall people. # 2 & 3 alt: start at one and up the other – Project # 3 - V4 ** SDS low in back of cave, strong move off pinches to lip and up the slab. # 4 - V1 SDS up left of left hand seam to top # 5 - V0 SDS up middle of seams to top # 6 - V0 SDS up right of right hand seam to top.

# 7 - V4 ?? SS using undercling & smear. Strong start to delicate finish straight up slab to top on tiny edges. More traffic may either improve (clean) the holds or make this harder.

# 8 - V2 * SDS on side crimp. Up face smearing & crimping to top # 9 - Project SS using trunk, straight up avoiding left boulder. # 10 - V6?? SS using trunk, up & R to crimp & jug, then top, avoiding left boulder

PROBLEMS 11 - 20

# 11 - V1 SS. Up the crack to top # 12 - V0 SDS on horizontal crack. Up slab to top using crack

# 13 - V2 SDS on horizontal crack. Up steep face. Alternate: using crack only V3

# 14 - V3 ** SS on small pockets straight up to top

# 15 - V1 SS. Follow zigzig feature to top. # 16 - V1 SS on undercling to top. # 17 - V0 SS straight up left side of slabby face # 18 - V0 SS straight up right side of slabby face.

# 18 - V0 SS straight up right side of slabby face. # 19 - V1 SS. Up using cracks. # 20 - V5** SS using jugs to top using compression

1

2 3 4 5

6

15 16 17 18

18

19 20

7

11 12

8 10 9

13 14

Various problems

?

COSY CORNER BOULDERING MINI GUIDE REV 0 PAGE 6 OF 6 January 2013

PROBLEMS 21 - 27

# 21 - V1 SDS in little cavelet. Up on cracks – avoid exiting left early. Contrived. # 22 - Project SDS in cavelet up smooth crack to slopey top.

# 23 - V2 ** SDS at bottom of crack to top. # 24 - V1 SDS using small, low crimp.

# 25 - V0 SDS. To top using obvious vertical edge, nice top-out. # 26 - V3 ** SDS using low sidepull, straight up.

# 27 - V0 SDS in hole to top on pockets and crumbly edges

PROBLEMS 28 - 34

# 28 - The Prow V7*** Andy Lampard SDS. left heel hook then squeeze up to horizontal break.

# 29 - Project SDS on slopey rail, up steep face. # 30 - If Only V4 ** Andy Lampard SDS using pinches/slopey holds. Up steep face.

# 31 - V1 SS on pocket & undercling traverse around left using flake then up. # 32 - V1 SS on pocket & undercling. Straight up. # 33 - V0 SDS under large overlap to top. # 34 - V0 Easy. Up slabby face using vertical cracks

Abbreviations: SDS = sit down start , SS = stand start

Acknowledgements / special thanks to: Wilson Tucker, Dennis Lehman, Russell Davis, Andy Lampard, Gareth Wood

These areas have had previous bouldering activity but little recorded information. In order to improve the content of this

guide please send in:

- names, grades, FA’s, date etc if you’ve already climbed these problems

- names, grades, FA’s, date etc when you’ve climbed these

- corrections to existing descriptions, grades, names etc

- new problems with location, descriptions, grades, FA’s etc – photos and sketch of route would be good too

Contact me (Eric Friis) via email: ec @ arach dot net dot au

Disclaimers: 1) grades are subjective, use your own judgement of your skill level when selecting problems to climb;

2) climbing is dangerous, climb / boulder at your own risk, etc. 3) some of the problems here have bad landings, are

highballs or dangerously close to the surf, or may be better not to try during high seas – use your judgement.

21 22

23

24

25 26

27

28

29 30

32 31 33

34