What Are You Wearing?

An exploration into the use of harmful chemicals

and practices in the fashion industry

introduction

People are thinking more and more about

what goes into their food but there is still little

publicity regarding potentially dangerous

chemicals used in the production of

clothing

Mostly because of Greenpeace’s “Fashion

Detox” campaign, this is beginning to

change

Was one of the first widely publicized

scientific studies on the subject

NPEs—What are they?

nonylphenol ethoxylates (aka NPEs) are a

common type of synthetic cleaning agent

Are often used in the production of textiles

and in the clothing industry

Can also be found in many detergents

Roughly 270 million pounds of NPEs are used

in the U.S. each year

NPEs—Why are They Harmful?

Because they function as a cleaning agent,

almost all NPEs end up being rinsed down

the drain and into rivers and lakes

Not just in the Global South, but locally as

well

A U.S. Geological Survey study found

metabolites of NPEs present in over 61 per

cent of tested U. S. streams.

When NPEs end up in water systems they become incredibly dangerous

They mimic the hormone estrogen and act as endocrine disruptors

Especially if they break down into NPs

NPs have been involved in the widespread "feminization" of male fish and in the disruption of hormone processes in some mammals

Once ingested, the body cannot tell the difference

resulting in cellular confusion in reproduction and development

No conclusive studies have confirmed the negative affects of NPEs on humans

However, many scholars have listed NPEs as at least a partial cause of modern hormonal health issues

The use of NPEs is completely restricted in Europe

Residue from NPE used in the textile production process remains in garments long after they leave the factory or even after several washes

And other contaminated organisms can easily end up in our food

The constant NPE contact with our skin could have dangerous affects

Constant contact with harmful chemicals is changing our bodies

Azo Dyes

Azo Dyes are another substance often used

in textile production because of their ability

to create a wide spectrum of hues with

outstanding colorfastness

The use of these dyes is potentially

dangerous because they can easily break

down into cancer-causing amines

Other Harmful Substances

During the journey from plant to product, cotton undergoes a series of processes

bleaching, sizing, dying, straightening, shrink reduction, stain and odor resistance, fireproofing, mothproofing, and static- and wrinkle-reduction

Chemicals often used for finishing garments include formaldehyde, caustic soda, sulfuric acid, bromines, urea resins, sulfonamides, halogens, and bromines, and long-lasting disinfectants.

Residues from using these chemicals can cause

moderate to severe reactions in people with Multiple

Chemical Sensitivities

These can manifest as rashes, itching, dermatitis,

swelling, and restriction of breath

People are developing allergies to formaldehyde in

particular

Which is also shown to be a powerful human

carcinogen

PPD is another substance used in black dyes and the

treatment of leather which causes particularly severe

reactions

As of now, there is no universal requirement to disclose

the chemical content of clothes manufactured

Often extremely hard to trace where garments are

made and which dangerous compounds are likely

present

Greenpeace Study

As part of their “Fashion Detox” campaign, this study was conducted in April 2012

Tested 141 clothing items from 20 major brandslooking for evidence of phthalates, NPEs, and azo dyes

(all harmful and potentially carcinogenic)

Brands tested included Calvin Klein, Adidas, Converse, Ralph Lauren, Abercrombie & Fitch, Bauer Hockey, Cortefiel, Uniqlo, Gap, H&M, Lacoste, Zara, Mango, Nike, Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation (PVH Corp), Levi’s, and Puma

Tested garments from 27 countries

Results

NPEs were the most commonly detected substances, identified in 89 of the 141 articles (63% of the total).

NPE concentrations ranged from just above 1 mg/kg up to 45 000 mg/kg.

12 samples (9% of articles tested) showed concentrations over 1 000 mg/kg

NPEs were detected in one or more products from all of the tested brands, in at least one product from 13 of the 18 identifiable countries of manufacture, and in products sold in 25 out of the 27 countries

Results (cont.)

In addition to the widespread presence of

NPEs, carcinogenic amines (from azo dyes)

were found in two of the tested garments

The garment with the highest NPE content

was a screen printed t-shirt manufactured

and sold in Mexico

“Fast Fashion”

Accountability