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ContentsIntroduction

A career in hairdressing When you are qualified

Client CareAdverse hair and scalp conditions Head and face shapes Lifestyle Hair growth patterns Incompatibility Recognising infections Recognising infestations Pests and diseases Skin tests Test curls and colour Discretion and the DPA

Shampoo and ConditionerShampoo ranges How to shampoo and condition hair The history of shampoo The soap tax The manufacture of shampoo Alkylbenzene Soapless shampoo Conditioner ranges Shampoo and conditioning treatments Herbs and their affects on hair

Drying and styling hairStyling products Tools Brushing Lifestyle Diet Drying with brushes Hand drying / Defuser drying Blow drying science

Cutting hair using basic techniques3 basic cuts Face shapes Hair growth patterns Lifestyle Hair texture Different cutting techniques Cutting combinations

Colouring Perming

Perming, curling and straighteningEarly Egyptians and perming hair Heating Irons Electric heating Wireless perming systems Tepid perming Cold perming Semi permanents Hair straightenersHair straightening

Colouring hairTemporary colour Semi-permanent colour Permanent colour Lightening and bleaching Affects of bleach Hi / Lo light techniques Colour wheel and corrective colour ICC system

Salon reception dutiesDuties Cash Cheques Credit cards Charge cards Vouchers / Tokens Invalid payments Fraudulent payments

Salon resources Responsibilities Ordering and receiving stock Handling stock Rotating stock Retail display

Heath, safety and salon securityWhat hazards to look out for in a salon Working as part of a team & health and safety Infections Posture and deportment COSHH Waste disposal Cross infections Government acts Handling and storing

IntroductionThis book aims to be a convenient and helpful guide to anyone training to become a hairdresser. It contains a collection of useful and factual hairdressing resources including illustrated diagrams. Each section covers the basic core theory that is needed to become a qualified and proficient hairdresser. It aims to give the reader a basic understanding of what is required in order to work in a salon, the basic science of hairdressing and the health and safety issues.

A career in hairdressingChoosing to learn the skills needed to become a hairdresser is only the start. Once you are qualified, a hairdressing career can lead to many possibilities. You could become a very well known or famous hairdresser. You could own your own salon or chain of salons. You could work in the limelight within the television or film industry. You are not tied down to just working in high street salons either. Hairdressing jobs can be found almost anywhere.

Places you can find hairdressing jobs Hotels

Department stores

Residential homes

Hospitals

Leisure centres

Health clubs

Cruise liners

Becoming a managerWorking your way up to becoming the manager of a salon is a great hairdressing career goal. It will take time, lots of hard work and loyalty. Being the manager and owning your own hairdressing salon can be even more rewarding, but you will have more responsibility as a business owner and need a good understanding of basic business skills.

Working for manufacturersAnother great hairdressing career to look into is working for manufacturers. Manufacturers of hairdressing products and tools employ many qualified hairdressers within their industry. There are many hairdressing jobs in this industry. They need representatives to give advice on tools or hair products. They need sales reps to sell hair products to hairdressers and retail outlets. They also need product demonstrators who can show how products are used in colleges and training centres.

A career in television, film or theatreTo work in this industry you will need some practical experience, as well as extra qualifications, in stage make-up and wig making. Your working hours will be varied and you may be asked to work late into the night. But there are many rewards to be had working in television, film or theatre. As such, there is huge competition for these hairdressing jobs.

Becoming a teacherYou will need some advanced hairdressing qualifications as well as some basic teaching qualifications to become a hairdressing teacher. As a hairdressing teacher you can work in training centres, hairdressing colleges or hairdressing schools. You will be teaching the next generation of hairdressers, who will then be looking for good hairdressing jobs and careers as well.

Becoming a hair consultantA hair consultant (or trichologist) is a hair and scalp expert. A hair consultant is one of the most important and specialist hairdressing jobs to have. They deal with many hair and scalp problems such as hair loss. There are hair clinics all over the world that deal with hair and scalp problems. Becoming a hair consultant can take many years of learning, but it can prove to be a very rewarding and highly paid hairdressing career.

When you are qualifiedWhen a client decides to get their hair done, it's a good idea to remember what the client is actually paying for. They are not buying a tangible product (unless they decide to buy hair products before they leave the salon). They are paying for a skilled service. As hairdressers, it is our job to provide that skilled service.

You know how to shampoo, cut and style your clients hair proficiently, but that is not all a prospective employer is looking for. They want a hairdresser that can provide more than just the physical service of attending to a client’s hair.

Good communication skills are not only needed to understand a client’s needs but to give advice and allow a client to feel comfortable and in safe hands. In this way any misunderstandings can be avoided. A hairdresser needs to be confident and outgoing. They need to be able to socialise with many different types of people and genuinely show an interest in their clients.

Being able to work as part of a team is also essential as most hairdressing salons have several members of staff. A higher level of efficiency can be attained when working together which can produce a better level of service to the client over all.

An understanding of changing fashion trends and a flair for creativity is essential in having a long and successful hairdressing career. An awareness of Health and Safety in the salon is also important and must be apparent at all times.

A willingness to learn new hairdressing skills, techniques and methods shows commitment to having a lengthy career in hairdressing.

Most hairdressing salons are open 6 days a week with Fridays and Saturdays being the busiest days. A hairdresser must be prepared to work on their feet for

long hours and still enjoy what they do.

There is much more to getting the hairdressing job you want than just the skills and qualifications you have gained. Commitment, determination and a love of hairdressing will eventually give you experience. This experience will give you the ability to provide a great level of hairdressing service to any client and hopefully it will give you a very happy and successful career in hairdressing.

Client CareThere is more to caring for a client than just getting them a coffee with a smile. Many factors must be taken into consideration to maintain your client’s happiness and general well being. The consultation process is the first step to understanding what your client wants, the kind of lifestyle they lead and the condition of the client’s hair and scalp. The client can then be advised and given good guidance to the services that can be offered or indeed not offered.

Adverse Hair and Scalp ConditionsAdverse hair and scalp conditions may influence shampooing, conditioning, colouring and perming by forcing the hairdresser to inform the client of their hair, skin or scalp condition and either proceed with caution or advise the client to seek medical advice. For example if a client has a small cut the hairdresser would inform the client before proceeding with the shampoo and take special care not to inflame the area. If a client has lice, the hairdresser would tactfully inform the client and advise the client to seek medical advice and return when the infestation is cured.

Head and Face ShapesHead and face shape may influence cutting and perming by forcing the hairdresser to advise the client on which styles would suit their particular face shape and compensate for any style which may not complement the clients face shape. For example, if a client has a square face shape, a hairdresser would advise a style that would compensate by rounding off the squareness of the face, enhancing the good features and disguising unwanted features.

LifestyleLifestyle may influence cutting and perming by making the hairdresser aware of the client’s needs and choosing a style in line with those needs. For example, if a client is very athletic and washes their hair on a daily basis, then a shorter style that can be easily managed and kept clean should be advised by the hairdresser.

Hair Growth PatternsHair growth patterns may influence cutting by forcing the hairdresser to be aware of how the hair naturally sits and to cut the hair accordingly or to rethink the style chosen. For example, if a client has a cows lick, a short straight fringe would be unsuitable, but a slightly longer fringe that falls naturally in the direction of the cows lick will complement the growth pattern.

IncompatibilityIncompatibility of previous services and products used may influence cutting, colouring, perming and relaxing. For example, if a client has had a previous colouring treatment and wishes to change the colour to an extreme, the required

colour may not be achieved due to the amount of processing required. This over processing may damage the hair.

Recognising InfectionsSuspected infection is when a client is thought to have an infectious disease such as impetigo or a fungi infection such as ringworm. By carrying out a full head and scalp analysis, these infections can be spotted.

Impetigo - Caused by streptococci can be recognised by blisters on the outer epidermis of the skin which dry to form a yellow crust.

Boils - Caused by staphylococci can be recognised by inflammation and the development of pus in the hair follicles.

Barbers itch - Caused by staphylococci can be noticed by small pustules forming around each hair of the beard.

Ringworm - Will attack dead tissue of the epidermis and the hair shafts.

Tinea capitis - Can be noticed by pink patches on the scalp which develop into round, grey, scaly areas with broken hairs.

Recognising InfestationsA suspected infestation is when a client is thought to be infested with insects like head lice or itch mites. By carrying out a full head and scalp analysis, these infestations can be spotted.

Head lice - As adults, are grey and about 2mm long. Their eggs are called nits, they are white and about 1mm long. The eggs are fixed to hairs close to the scalp and are usually in the occipital region.

Itch mites - As the name suggests, are very itchy and cause scabies. Their eggs are laid in folds in the skin and can be recognised as tiny red lines beneath the skin.

Pests and Diseases of the hair and scalpImpetigo caused by streptococci - Blisters and dries to form a yellow crust on the outer epidermis of the skin. The bacteria enters through a cut or abrasion. It is highly contagious, especially to children.

Boils caused by staphylococci - Infects the follicle to produce inflammation and pus in follicle.

Barbers' itch (sycosis barbae) caused by staphylococci - Infects follicles of beard. Pustules form around each hair. It is transmitted by the use of infected shaving equipment.

Cold sores (Herpes simplex) - Infects skin around nose and lips, forms red itchy patches which may develop blisters. This tends to be a life long condition which comes and goes.

Warts (verrucae) - Small growths, which cannot be cured, but can be burnt off.

Head louse (pediculosis capitis) - Can be found on scalp at the nape or sides of the head. The louse is 2 mm long and causes irritation by biting the skin and

sucking blood. Females lay eggs (nits) close to the scalp attached to a hair shaft. Pediculosis is treated by an insecticide.

Itch mite (sarcoptes scabiei) - This mite causes `scabies'. Usually infects hands and wrists but can spread over the whole body. Infection is spread by direct contact. Medical advice is necessary.

Face mite (demodex folliculorum) - This mite feeds on sebum and is associated with blackheads and hair follicles. It inhabits the eye-lashes, nose and chin. They are harmless and do not transmit disease.

Alopecia - This term covers the loss of hair. The most common type of Alopecia is found in men and is usually hereditary.

Ringworm - Fungus attacks dead tissues of the epidermis and hair shaft.

Tinea capitis (scalp) - Pink patches, develop into round grey scaly areas, with broken hairs. It is highly contagious, spreads by direct contact, and is most common in children. Treatment by Griseofulvin.

Alopecia areota - Patches of clear scalp of various sizes. Normally caused by shock or a nervous condition. Treat with antibiotics and high- frequency treatment.

Seborrhoea - A greasy condition of the scalp. A good diet will help with this condition.

Seborroe oteosa - Extreme oiliness caused by over active sebacious glands. It is not infectious but is often related to other scalp conditions.

Skin TestsAn allergic reaction occurs when the immune system, which is the body's normal defence against dangerous foreign substances, mistakes a normally harmless substance for an invader, such as a virus. No one knows why this abnormal reaction occurs in some people and not others. People who have this type of unusual immune system are said to be hypersensitive. About one in twenty-five clients have some form of reaction to tints and a number of semi-permanents containing either phenylenediamine or para-toluenediamine. Product manufacturers recommend a skin test before every tint application.

1. Mix a small amount of tint with equal parts of peroxide (the strength you intend to use)

2. Cleanse either the inside of the elbow or behind the ear with cotton wool and spirit (alcohol)

3. Place a small smear of tint on the cleansed area and allow it to dry naturally or cover with Nu-skin. (collodion)

4. Advise the client to leave the patch alone until returning to the salon, unless it begins to irritate, when it should be washed off and calamine lotion used to relieve the irritation.

If positive reaction occurs, do not let tint come into contact with the clients scalp.

Test curls and colourTo see if a client’s, possibly over processed hair, can withstand a colour or perm, 3 or 4 small sections of hair can be coloured or permed as a test for possible breakage, incorrect colour or over elasticity.

Discretion and the DPANever talk about clients to other clients or staff and allow clients to talk to you in the strictest of confidence. If this is not up held, the reputation of your salon could be damaged. For example, you might tell client (a) that the client (b) before them had a bad case of ringworm recently. If client (a) were to mention to client (b), "I hope your ringworm cleared up ok." Then client (b) may not be too happy and refuse to enter your salon again. This type of publicity for a salon is not good at all.

As a registered data user with the DPA (data protection act) you must give a client full access to all personal data at all times. You must make sure that the information is correct and accurate because the client would have the right to obtain compensation if damage is suffered from inaccurate information. A client can also claim compensation for loss or unauthorised disclosure.

Shampoo and ConditionerThe range of hair shampoo now availableHair Shampoos today contain soapless detergents that do not react with hard water like older soap detergents. Soapless shampoos are naturally neutral or slightly Alkaline and are very strong in degreasing the scalp.

Hair Shampoo for Greasy hair - The soapless detergents found in shampoos for greasy hair will remove the grease but will not prevent greasy hair. A hair shampoo for greasy hair will contain fewer oily or fatty substances.

Hair Shampoo for dry hair - Dry hair shampoos will contain more oily or fatty substances or less soapless detergents. The oils will leave a residue on the hair and will include oils like coconut, olive and almond oils.

Hair Shampoo for damaged hair - These contain broken down proteins in the form of short chains of amino acids which cling to the hair, filling in damaged areas. Hydrolyzed protein or Keratin is usually taken from certain animal waste products like ground cattle hooves, but it's possible to use Hydrolyzed 'human hair' keratin protein, the benefits of which have not yet been realised by major manufacturing companies of hair shampoo to the general public.

Hair Shampoo for colour treated hair - Hair shampoos for colour treated hair have a low Ph value and are beneficial to reduce oxidation damage and close the cuticle to stop colour molecules escaping.

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo - These hair shampoos claim to reduce the multiplication of the epidermal cells and thus, reduce subsequent scaling. The main ingredient used is Zinc Pyrithione. Another ingredient, Selenium Sulphide, which was used for some time, is now rare because so many people are allergic to the sulphur.

Hair Shampoo for Psoriasis - Coal Tar hair shampoo can be beneficial to reduce scaling, but must be left on the hair for a minimum of five minutes to have maximum effect.

Brightening Hair Shampoo - The ingredients range from Camomile, to lighten blonde hair; henna, to increase the redness of brown hair or semi-permanent colorants in hair shampoo bases.

How to shampoo and condition hair

Shampoo - First you must thoroughly wet the hair with cool or warm water. Hot water creates too much steam and will dry out your hair. Add a small amount of shampoo to the palm of your hand (size of a 10 pence coin) and rub your hands together. Using the balls of your finger tips, gently massage the shampoo into the scalp. The idea is to clean the scalp, not the hair. The scalp produces sebum, a natural oil that stops your hair and scalp from becoming dry and flaky. The reason dirt builds up on your hair is because it becomes trapped in the sebum.

By regularly cleaning the scalp, you are removing the old dirty sebum and promoting new clean sebum that will protect your hair and scalp leaving it clean and healthy. If you have a very oily scalp, you should rinse off the first application and repeat the process.

TIP: if during the first application of shampoo you notice very little or no lather at all, then the detergent in the shampoo has been weakened by the oil in the scalp and is a good indication that a second application of shampoo is required.

Conditioner - Rinse off any shampoo and towel dry the hair. This is so any water will not dilute the conditioner too much. Add a small amount of conditioner to the palm of your hand (size of a 10 pence coin) and rub your hands together. Add the conditioner to the hair starting from the middle of the hair shaft, working your way towards the ends of the hair. The idea is to coat your hair in a protective layer of conditioner to smooth the cuticle scales. leave the conditioner on the hair for a few minutes to allow it to work on the cuticle scales. After a few minutes it is time to rinse out the conditioner. Make sure it is rinsed thoroughly with warm or cold water.

The History of Shampoo Soap has been around from as early as 600bc and was made from various animal fats and wood or plant ashes containing potassium carbonate.

Soap production spread slowly throughout the middle ages. Although on the increase, the benefits of soap was slow to be realised by general societies at that time.

In 1831 Sulphonated olive oil (turkey-red oil) was one of the first soapless detergents (surfactants) to be made in a laboratory.

In the 1930's, fatty alcohols were used in the production of synthetic detergents. The first fatty alcohols used were derived from body oil of the sperm or bottle-nosed whale. Efforts soon followed to derive these materials from the less expensive Tryglycerides found in coconut oil, palm kernel oil and tallow. This was all to change because soon after World War 2, another raw material, Alkylbenzene, became available in huge quantities.

The Soap Tax In the 13th and 14th Centuries, soap-makers had to pay tax on the soap they produced. After the Napoleonic Wars, this soap tax rose as high as three pence per pound. Tax collectors would lock the soap-boiling pans at night to prevent soap makers evading the duty on soap production. In 1853, the soap tax was abolished at a loss to the state of over one million pounds. By the 19th Century, soap became commonly used by most households.

"Soap consumed by a nation is an accurate measure of its wealth and civilisation." according to Justus Von Liebig, a German Chemist at that time.

The Manufacture of Shampoo Soapless shampoo or synthetic detergents are made from one of three things...

1. Triethanolamine Lauryl Sulphate

2. Sodium Lauryl Sulphate

3. Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate

...and added to light oils and perfumes.

A soapless shampoo is produced by boiling oils or fats with sodium or potassium hydroxide, this makes hard soluble soap and glycerine as a by-product.

A solvent detergent is made from petrol or Carbon Tetrachloride.

A dry powder detergent is made from simply talc and chalk.

Alkylbenzene Alkylbenzene is a liquid hydrocarbon petroleum by-product and is treated with concentrated Sulphuric acid and made into acidic Alkyl Sulphonates or Hydrogen Sulphates. This is followed by neutralisation with various bases. Today, Alkylbenzene is the most important raw material for synthetic detergent production; About 50% of all synthetic detergents produced in the United States and Western Europe are based on it.

Soapless shampoo for hairThe majority of liquid shampoos in use today, are generally termed as soapless shampoo, are based on the alkyl sulphates, and the most widely used of which is triethanolamine lauryl sulphate. When properly prepared, this substance is particularly suitable for washing hair for two reasons.

1. It does not leave dully deposits on the hair when used in hard water.

This is because, when the shampoo reacts with the calcium salts found in hard water, it forms calcium lauryl sulphate. This is a soluble salt which rinses freely from the hair.

2. The finished product occupies a position on the acid to alkali scale equal to about P.H. 7.

P.H.7 is chemically neutral. This means that it will not normally interfere with any chemical hairdressing processes which follow shampooing. More importantly, being non alkaline, it will not normally cause damage to the hair structure.

Types of hair conditioner 1) Oil conditioners

2) Olive oil

3) Almond oil

4) Coconut oil

These can be applied to dry hair and processed with heat. They will make the hair feel soft, supple and shiny.

Acid rinses Weak acids (P.H. 4 - 5) such as lemon juice and vinegar can be poured through the hair after shampooing and left on. They will make the hair shiny by closing the cuticle scales.

A simple but affective acid rinse1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 pint warm water

Chemicals such as neutralisers, bleaches, permanent tints are alkaline (opening the cuticle scales) and work by adding oxygen to the hair and return the hair to its natural acid state. We need to use ascorbic acid. This anti-oxidant (i.e. - it removes oxygen) is often added to acid balance conditioners because of its anti-oxidant properties and because it’s good at closing the cuticle scales.

Leave in conditionersThese contain moisturising and protective ingredients and are sprayed onto wet hair. They are ideal for greasy, fine or tight curly Afro hair and are very useful for disentangling children’s hair and prevent the hair from drying out too much.

Conditioning creamsOrdinary conditioning creams are emulsions which work in a similar way to the hairs natural grease. They coat the hair in a thin film filling in some of the gaps in the broken scales so the hair becomes more shiny and manageable. The better ones are acid.

Deep Acting conditionersThese are sometimes used when reconditioning the hair, especially as part of a 4 - 6 week series of weekly treatments for hair in very poor condition.

RestructuritesHair that is in a very weakened and over processed state, (over permed, bleached) such as in Trichorrhexis nodosa will benefit from the application of a restructurite and should be applied to shampooed, well dried hair and left on.

High frequencyThis is used for hairdressing and beauty purposes. A metal electrode and glass vacuum electrode are used, they consist of:

a) The metal electrode or saturator.

b) The glass comb or the rake electrode.

c) The glass bulb or surface electrode.

d) The cylinder is usually made from vulcanite and is called the holder.

It has been found that the H - F stimulates:

a) Nerve endings.

b) Circulation via the superficial, arterial capillaries.

c) Sweat glands.

d) Sebaceous glands.

H - F treatmentThe treatment consists of applying a H - F alternating electric current to the scalp by means of a suitable electrode. This gives a tingling sensation to the scalp and a feeling of warmth.

Shampoo and Conditioning Treatments

A scalp with flaking skin (dandruff) - Use a shampoo with selenium sulphide.

Chemically treated hair (i.e. permed etc.) - Use a clear liquid soapless shampoo P.H.7 before treatment. Use a soapless shampoo with organic acids (lemon juice, vinegar), ascobic acid, or any anti-oxident treatment, all with a P.H.4.0 to 5.6 after processing.

Damaged hair - Use a soapless shampoo with natural or synthetic, fat or wax. cationic detergents, deep acting conditioners, restructurants and also high frequency treatment may be beneficial. A shampoo with Keratin or other proteins (animal or vegetable) will help to re-build the damaged cuticle.

Dry hair - Use any oil or wax based shampoos, leave in conditioners and hot oil treatments containing almond, coconut or sunflower oils may help.

Oily or Greasy hair - Soapless shampoo's with natural acids i.e. lemon or vinegar. Beer, egg and dry shampoo's will combat oily hair.

Herbs and their affects on hair

Burdock root - Positive on roots of hair

Rosemary - Improves circulation, Good for grease

Nettle - Skin problems, Controls dandruff

Sunflower oil - Restructurant, Fatty acids

Camomile - Conditioning, Increased shine, Good for damaged hair

Linden blossom - Ideal for fine hair, Smoothes the hair

Yarrow - Volume to fine hair, Etheric oil

Calendula - Moisturising for long hair, Regulating, Contains Carotenoids (balance of skin and hair)

Drying and styling hairStyling ProductsHairspray - A Lacquer that gives hold and support. Used after hair has been dried into shape. Spray where desired.

Wax - A wax coating that gives stability with movement. Used when hair is dried into shape. Rub into hands and fingers and apply where desired.

Gel - A gel that gives hold and support. Can come in various forms e.g. wet look gel, spray gel. Rub into hands and fingers and apply where needed.

Mousse - A gel in foam spray form. Used on wet hair before blow drying to aid the hairdresser and give even hold. Use a golf ball size, apply to hair and comb through before blow drying.

Colour Mousse - As normal mousse, but with added temporary colour. This may be used to enhance previous colour treatments or to temporarily hide grey. The colour will wash away after the first wash. When applying to the hair remember to wear rubber gloves.

ToolsHand Dryer - An electrical appliance, in the shape of a hand gun, which blows heat through a barrel like chamber. Used to blow dry wet hair into desired shape. Use on its own for finger drying or in conjunction with a desired brush. You can also use an attachment like a defuser for long, wavy, or permed hair.

Denman - A very popular blow drying brush that comes in different sizes. Used to blow dry sections of wet hair to give precision lift, natural looking straight or wavy looks.

Round Brush - A small round brush is a bristle brush used to give tight curl on short to medium hair. A medium or large round brush is used to give loose waves or straightness to medium or long hair.

Vent Brush - Looking like the skeleton of a brush, a vent brush allows warm air to pass right through its head. Can speed up drying and give a very natural wavy, textured look.

Tongs - An electrical appliance used to give root lift or curl to previously blow dried hair. When used on previously blow dried or set hair and combed through using the fingers, gives a very broken up look throughout.

BrushingBrushing your hair not only keeps it in shape and tangle free, but promotes new growth by stimulating nerve endings and blood supply.

LifestyleIf you live a very athletic lifestyle or regularly work in a dusty atmosphere and

find yourself washing your hair on a daily basis, use a very mild shampoo such as a baby shampoo.

Atmospheric conditions vary and can have an effect on the condition of your hair. For example; on a cold damp frosty morning, hair can become frizzy, heavy and lose its shape; on a hot sunny day hair can become very dry and naturally bleached. Wearing a hat or hood will protect the condition and health of your hair from these extreme conditions.

DietYou are what you eat! Just as a plant needs fertile soil and water to grow, your hair needs vital vitamins and minerals to stay healthy. By eating a healthy, well balanced diet you can improve the health of your hair.

Drying with brushesUsually drying the hair with brushes leaves a smooth or sleek Finnish with plenty of lift. Using the vent brush or Denman, the hair is taken into small sections and held in the teeth of the brush while dried. Holding the brush at differing angles lift and direction can be achieved. The round brush takes the same sections and is kept rotating to give extra lift.

Hand drying / Defuser dryingUsually a technique used for clients with curly hair or to achieve a more natural or broken feel. The hair is held lightly between the fingers and the end of the hair is dried with a hand drier. On shorter hair the dryer is used in a directional method using the tips of the fingers to help break up and angle the hair. A defuser may be used and the ends of the hair are laid in the base of the defuser or held close to the head.

Blow dryingWet hair stretches because the temporary bonds that join the polypeptide chains in the cortex are broken. However, they quickly rejoin into a new shape when you blow dry the hair (also, setting applies).

You can blow dry curly or wavy hair straight or straight hair wavy by breaking the temporary bonds, stretching the hair with a brush and then drying it.

Hair in its natural state, whether curly, wavy or straight, is described as being in an alpha keratin state. When the hair is wetted, stretched into a new shape and then dried, it is in a beta keratin state.

Once the hair is dampened again by shampooing or just by being caught out in the rain then it will go back to its natural state (curly, wavy or straight) and be in the alpha keratin state again.

Cutting hair using basic techniques3 Basic CutsOne length (bob) - In its purist form it is cut completely on the outside shape / edge. Weight and fullness is on the outside shape. The whole shape of the cut tends to look triangular. i.e.. more width at the bottom edge than anywhere else.

Starting at the nape, take small sections from the hairline and cut a guideline. Using your guideline take small sections from the back and cut parallel to the guideline.

Starting on one side of the head, and using the previous guideline, take a small section from the hairline near the nape and cut a new guideline following on from the previous guideline. Using your new guideline take small sections from the side and cut parallel to the new guideline.

Do the same on the other side. Getting the client to move their head slightly from side to side and back and forward will show any signs of unevenness between each side.

A fringe can also be cut in the same way by cutting a guideline along the hairline at a suitable length.

Layered cut - The hair is cut all over the head at varying angles following a guide length. This creates a lot of inside shape or movement. Weight and fullness is evenly distributed. In its purest form the whole cut tends to look round and even.

Graduated cut - The hair is cut and held away from the outside edge, reducing weight and fullness on that edge and moving it to a higher line. In its purest form the whole haircut tends to have a diamond shape. i.e.. wider in the middle than anywhere else.

Face shapesWhen choosing a suitable hairstyle it is important that face shape is taken into consideration because remember… what suits one person may not suit another.

In knowing the shape of your face you can easily determine which features to enhance and which features to disguise. An appropriate style can then be found to best suit your face.

If you have a square face, for example, you should have a style which gives the impression that your face is more rounded than it is by softening those features that make it square.

Hair growth patternsEverybody's hair grows in different ways, and direction can be a critical factor for the hairdresser when cutting. Hair can grow in an adverse direction to the clients desired hair style, and ignoring these growth patterns when cutting can cause significant problems. E.g. Cutting a cow’s lick too short may cause the hair to stick out. Cutting a strong crown or double crown too short may cause the hair to lie flat. Partings are also taken into consideration when cutting. i.e.. When cutting a one length bob the natural parting should be accommodated for otherwise the cut may seem too long, or short on one side.

LifestyleEverybody’s lifestyle varies in many different ways and is taken into consideration when offering a particular style to a client. e.g.. If a client lives a very athletic lifestyle or regularly works in a dusty atmosphere and finds themselves washing their hair on a daily basis, a style which is both short and convenient to wash should be considered.

Hair TextureFace shape, lifestyle and growth patterns are an important part of the elimination process when choosing an appropriate style. The texture of hair is important for choosing the right style, but also the right technique. For example a client with fine, straight hair would not require thinning as this may prove pointless and cause the hair to become flyaway.

Different TechniquesClub cutting - Sometimes referred to as blunt cutting and often used when cutting the sides and top of the hair. The section of hair is held out from the head and cut off at the points/tips.

Scissor and clipper over comb - Scissor and clipper over comb is a method using the comb as a guide for cutting in areas where the hair is too short for a finger guide, as in the nape area and around the ears.

Graduating - Using the length of the outside line as a guide, the hair is held away from the head cutting away the bulk from the outside line.

Thinning - With scissors or razor the hair can be thinned to either, increase volume at the root by reducing the weight or to soften the features of a style.

Freehand - Freehand is not a technique but is used at the hairdresser’s discretion. For example using the features of the head as a guide the hairdresser could cut a straighter first guideline by cutting freehand.

Texturising - The hair is cut to different lengths to produce a variety of different looks, short hair can be texturised to give a spiky look, long hair can be made to look ragged or less uniform and using a combination of long and short hair more fashionable looks can be achieved.

CombinationsAll of the techniques used by hairdressers can, and are used in conjunction with one another to gain the individual benefits of each of them. There are three main steps to be taken when cutting, defining, shaping and finishing. e.g. by using free hand and club cutting to create the outside line. Graduating or scissors over comb to define the shape and weight of the style. Thinning and texturising can be used to gain texture and movement.

ColouringStyle and colour do go hand in hand when trying to achieve an overall look. Although there are no hard and fast rules as to what colour with what style, other influencing factors must be taken into consideration. I.e. occupation of client, clients natural colour, re-growth and so forth. Colour does enhance a style, or detract the eye from the shape. A one length bob, may look well defined with strong lines, if black or dark shades are used. A light, blond colour for a layered or graduated style may soften the edges or help the style to blend. With the use of colour, combining different shades and tones, it is possible to achieve a more fashionable look on a style that may not be so fashionable.

PermingIf a style is achieved when cutting, it may be possible to exaggerate the overall shape of that style with the use of perming. Perming creates more movement on the inside line and achieves a greater lift. If a client has naturally curly or wavy hair then this type of perm would be unnecessary, and permanent straightening may be required. When considering permanently waving the hair all influencing factors must be regarded. i.e. re-growth, lifestyle, colouring, face shape and manageability.

Perming, curling & straighteningEarly Egyptians and perming hairPermanently curling hair goes back to the beginning of civilisation. The early Egyptians wound hair around sticks, coated it with clay and baked it in the sun. The old wigmakers or perruquiers found that permanent curl would be produced by wrapping the hair around sticks and boiling in water.

Heating IronsAt the beginning of this century a system of perming was introduced which consisted of winding the hair, spirally, from points to roots, around sticks or curlers, securing the points by tying with string. A borax paste was coated onto the wound hair, muslin paper and flannel were used to cover and protect the hair. Heat was applied to each of the wound curlers and allowed to cool. Specially designed irons, similar to the older crimping irons used to form lines and crimps in hair before S-shapes were the fashion, were used to apply heat. Later elecric heaters took the place of the heating irons and the first electric hot perming system was produced.

Electric heatingHot perming systems were used, in many forms, up to the end of the Second World War. The first systems had the disadvantage of excessive heat being used over prolonged periods. This resulted in dry hair and scalp burns. The early elecric heating machines produced shocks and discomfort to the client. Later systems were introduced which consisted of lower alkaline reagents. Lower temperatures, better curlers, protective water jackets and safer electric heating machines.

Wireless perming systemsAfter electric heating systems, for perming hair, came wireless perming systems, which did not require clients to be directly attached to an electric machine. This was another disadvantage of earlier systems, The attachment of the client to a machine by wires. These newer systems consisted of winding the hair from points to roots, ie CROQUIGNOLE method. The application of kinder reagents to the hair, and applying heat from heaters detached from a machine. An electric machine heated especially designed heater clamps which fitted over the wound curler. In some systems a nibber jacket was used to protect the hair.

Tepid permingTepid perming was introduced about the same time as the first wireless and machineless systems but was a method of perming which did not require the use of a machine. Tepid perming consisted of croquignole winding, the application of a reagent. Not unlike a weak cold perm lotion and covering the wound curlers with sachets after being dipped into water. The sachets contained calcium oxide

and the action of water produced sufficient heat in the sachet to activate the reagents used on the hair. This system did not become popular until recent times, and became known as the exothermic perm. The advantages of this, and the newer tepid perming systems; some of which include the use of a machine, are the low alkaline reagents used, less heat, hair left in better condition and improved client comfort and safety.

Cold permingWhen the cold perming system was introduced in this country on a large scale, in 1946, its action on hair was harsh and rough, but it soon became the most popular system in use. It is not vastly superior to the earlier methods, but the hair is left in a far better state.

Despite the many improvements of hot, tepid and cold perming systems, hair is still wound onto sticks or curlers and processed in a similar way to that used by the early Egyptians. Today, however, the hair is more naturally proccessed with a softness and safety other systems were unable to produce.

Semi permanentsSemi permanent waving systems have been introduced which produce a curl in hair which gradually relaxes over a period of six to eight weeks. These are popular since gentle effects and enough body to hold modern styles are produced. This system involved the use of large curlers with cold waving type reagent which is activated by the heat of a dryer.

The search for newer and better methods of perming continues, and the system which does not rely on winding, reagents and heat is yet to be found.

Hair straightenersThere are many different types of hair straighteners to choose from depending on the type of hair you have and the general style you wish to achieve. There are different hair straighteners with features most suitable for long or short hair and ones designed for fine or thick hair. Finding the right one for your type of hair will make it easier to create the styles you want. The wrong one could be frustrating to use and could end up damaging your hair.

Using hair straighteners on a daily basis is not advisable. But if you do use them more than often, heat treatment sprays and conditioners can reduce the adverse affects of using straighteners on a regular basis.

Types of hair straighteners

Chrome hair straightenersIf you have hair that damages easily or hair that is fine or dry then chrome straighteners are not the best choice for you. Chrome hair straighteners are the cheapest type of straightener available on the market and are only really suitable for occasional use as they can damage hair easily when used regularly.

Steam StraightenersSteam hair straighteners have a function like a steam iron for pressing clothes. You add water to a small reservoir on the straightener. This will produce a small puff of steam from time to time that will help to moisten then quickly dry and straighten the hair. Steam can cause more frizz if overly used and works best for those who have relatively straight hair in the first place. used correctly and only occasionally, steam straighteners are great for ironing out the odd curl.

Gold hair straightenersMore expensive that the chrome straighteners, gold plated hair straighteners are less damaging to hair. If you have normal to thick hair and want to remove frizz then gold plated straighteners should be fine for regular use.

Ceramic hair straightenersCeramic hair straighteners are the most popular and most recommended type of hair straightener, both for quality of results and price. Ceramic hair straighteners are good for almost any type of hair from curly hair to fine hair or chemically treated and even damaged hair. They heat up quicker than ordinary straighteners and stay hotter for longer. Ceramic hair straighteners will also stop frizz and leave hair silky smooth and shiny. If you want a hair straightener that you can use on a daily basis that wont damage your hair then ceramic straighteners are for you.

Titanium hair straightenersNew to the market are titanium hair straighteners. These hair straighteners are usually the most expensive but are worth the money if you plan to use them on a regular basis. They heat up extremely fast and should last longer than most hair straighteners.

Hair straighteningHair straightening has been around for many years. This is mainly due to the fact that people with very curly hair wish they were born with sleek straight hair. This doesn't mean that only people with curly hair want a method to straighten it. Even people with relatively straight hair sometimes need to iron out the odd curl or straighten out that morning hair look.

There are a few different methods used to straighten hair from temporary to more permanent methods.

Hair straighteners (flat irons)This is the most popular choice for anyone wishing to straighten their hair. This is because it is only temporary. Hair will eventually go back to it's natural state. It is also convenient because no costly trips to the hairdressers are needed. A person can style and straighten their hair at home or in a hotel room when on holiday.

Hair straighteners are small and compact and are used by plugging them in to an

electric socket to heat them up. A small section of hair is placed between two hot plates. Clamping the two plates lightly together will heat the hair and cause it to remain straight.

You can have a lot of fun with a set of hair straighteners as many different styles can be achieved for a temporary new look. There are also many different types of hair straighteners available on the market made with different materials to protect the hair and make hair shinier and silkier.

Thermal ReconditioningFor a more permanent solution that will last a few months, Thermal Reconditioning can be used to straighten hair. A flat iron is used with a cornstarch solution to keep hair straighter for longer. It can take a long time to achieve a finished look, but the result will be more permanent than using hair straighteners alone.

Chemical Hair StraightenersThe most permanent method of straightening hair is to use chemicals to break down the hair structure. Hair is left permanently straight, but any new hair growth will still be curly. Sodium hydroxide or Cysteamine Hydrochloride is used to relax and straighten the hair. Being chemicals, they can be irritating to eyes and skin if not applied properly. Chemical based hair straightening should be achieved by visiting a professional hairdresser.

Colouring hairTemporary ColourMost temporary hair colours will wash out after the first wash. Temporary colour molecules are too large to enter the hair shaft. They stick to the outside of the hair and can be washed away very easily.

Most temporary colours are applied in mousse form, scrunched into the hair using rubber gloves. There are also colour gels, sprays and rinses. All temporary colours should disappear after the first wash.

Semi-Permanent ColourSemi-permanent hair colour will last longer than a temporary colour and will fade over time with each new wash. Semi-permanent colour molecules are smaller than temporary colour molecules. Being smaller, they can get a little deeper inside the cortex of the hair. This means that the colour will last longer than temporary colour. Each wash will remove some of the colour molecules so the colour will fade slowly.

Semi-permanent colours can last for six to eight washes and can be applied in various ways using techniques such as all over colour, hi/low lights, spot colour and scrunch in colour. Semi-permanent colours are good for clients who do not wish to have permanent colour or who haven't decided on permanent colour yet.

Heat will affect the processing time. Cold temperatures will slow down the processing time and hot temperatures will speed up processing time. If atmospheric conditions appear to be cold then additional heat may be required. If conditions are hot then colour will take quicker. The method of application may

be affected by hot temperatures. i.e. If temperature appears to be hot then application may need to start from mid-lengths and ends (as in virgin hair) due to the additional heat given off by the clients scalp.

If the hair is porous the processing time may be shortened due to hair damage. i.e. if ends are porous delay colour application until the last 15-30 minutes.

Equipment that may be needed to apply a semi-permanent colourgown/cape, Towel, apron, rubber gloves, tinting bowl, tinting brush, comb, brush, plastic cap, highlighting cap/hook, tinfoil, easy mesh, climazone, cotton wool, sectioning clips, water spray

Permanent ColourPermanent hair colour is, as it says, PERMANENT. It can be good for correcting unwanted colour (covering white hair), altering the tone and depth of natural colour, for fashion or alternative colour. As it is a permanent hair colour, the colour will not fade, but re-growth will need to be re-coloured.

Permanent colour or tints are mixed with the active ingredient hydrogen peroxide to create what are called oxidation dyes.

Permanent colour molecules are much smaller than semi-permanent colour molecules. Being alkaline, permanent colour opens up the cuticle scales allowing the very small colour molecules to enter into the cortex. The small molecules then attach themselves to hydrogen peroxide to create much larger molecules. These larger molecules become trapped inside the hair shaft and cannot escape no matter how many times the hair is washed. This process is called oxidation and is the basis of all permanent colouring or tinting.

Heat will affect the processing time. Cold temperatures will slow down the processing time and hot temperatures will speed up processing time. If

atmospheric conditions appear to be cold then additional heat may be required. If conditions are hot then colour will take quicker. The method of application may be affected by hot temperatures too. i.e. If temperature appears to be hot then application may need to start from mid-lengths and ends (as in virgin hair) due to the additional heat given off by the clients scalp.

If the hair is porous the processing time may be shortened due to hair damage. i.e. if ends are porous delay colour application until the last 15-30 minutes.

Lightening Bleachequipmentgown/cape, towel, apron, rubber gloves, tinting bowl, tinting brush, comb, brush, plastic cap, highlighting cap/hook, tinfoil, easy mesh, climazone, cotton wool, sectioning clips, water spray

porousIf the hair is porous the processing time may be shortened due to hair damage. i.e. if ends are porous delay bleach application until the last 15-30 minutes.

notesPowder bleach may dry out during application. Although, oil (emulsion) is easier to apply, you must still make sure all the hair receives sufficient product. When using bleach, watch out for sensitive skin. Inflammation may occur. This can be avoided by applying barrier cream around the hair line before you begin application.

heatHeat will affect the processing time. Cold temperatures will slow down the processing time and hot temperatures will speed up processing time. If atmospheric conditions appear to be cold then additional heat may be required. If

conditions are hot then bleach will take quicker. The method of application maybe effected by hot temperatures. i.e. If temperature appears to be hot then application may need to start from mid-lengths and ends (as in virgin hair) due to the additional heat given off by the clients scalp.

Affects of BleachOxidising agents in the bleach break down to release oxygen, the oxygen penetrates the hair shaft de-colouring the pigments.

When bleaching black hair a series of colour changes take place. The seven more noticeable colours are listed below.

As the colour of the hair changes from the natural colour to white, the condition of the hair is affected.After the hair has turned white severe breakage occurs as the oxidising agent continues to change the composition of the melanin which has an adverse affect on the cuticle.

The affects of bleach on hair

Hi/Lo Light TechniquesCappedComb hair into position. Fit cap firmly. Pull correct amount of hair through the cap at a ninety degree angle and apply colour.

Advantages of cappeda) Quicker

b) Ideal for short hair

c) Gets closer to the scalp

Disadvantages of cappeda) Painful

b) Can't be precise

c) Only one colour

WeavedSection hair accordingly and weave desired thickness with metal tail comb. Apply colour where desired.

Advantages of weaveda) More than one colour

b) Ideal for long hair

c) Not painful

d) More precise

Disadvantages of weaveda) Difficult on short hair

b) Takes longer

c) Doesn't get close to the roots

Flying ColourApply to blow dried hair. Dip comb into colour and paint for desired effect.

Advantages of flying coloura) Ideal for short hair

b) More fashionable

Disadvantages of flying coloura) Difficult on long or curly hair

Scrunch ColourApply to blow dried hair. Scrunch colour onto the desired area and rinse.

Advantages of scrunch coloura) Very quick

b) Subtle colour

Disadvantages of scrunch coloura) Only good on naturally curly hair

Colour WheelThe colour wheel is used as a guide to correct and neutralise any unwanted hair colour. If you look at the front cover of this ebook you will see the colour wheel.

Corrective ColourThe 'colour wheel' and 'star' is made up of three primary colours (red, blue, yellow) and three secondary colours (green, orange, violet). Each primary and secondary colour has an opposite. It is important to know these opposite colours as it is needed when correcting unwanted colour.

e.g. If a client has bright green hair, you would have to neutralise the green with red.

Colour Neutralising Colour Red Green

Yellow Violet

Blue Orange

Green Red

Violet Yellow

ICC SystemThe I.C.C. (international colour code) system is a tool that the hairdresser and client need to refer to during colouring consultation. Shade guides, showing samples of coloured nylon hair are designed around the I.C.C. system and are needed by the hairdresser to get a clear idea of what shade the client requires. The hairdresser can then determine the correct number of shade to mix.

The I.C.C. system is made up of two sets of numbers, depth and tone. Depth (numbered 1-10) is a description of how light or dark a colour is. Tone (1-8) is a description of the character of colour.

For example, if a client was to choose a dark golden blonde colour from the shade guide, the hairdresser should find that the tint number is 6.3

Please note that all manufacturers of tint products may vary slightly in their use of the I.C.C. system.

Salon Reception Duties Salon Reception DutiesAs a receptionist, it is a duty to receive payment from all clients.

The many forms of payment are as follows:

a) CASH

b) CHEQUE

c) DEBIT CARD

d) CHARGE CARD

e) VOUCHERS/TOKENS

Cash PaymentsPaying by cash is one of the most common methods of payment for a hairdressing service. When a client pays for his or her recent hairdressing service by cash, the total cost is seldom rounded off to accommodate his or her pocket. It is then necessary to give change to the client. This is why a certain amount of money is kept in the till to provide plenty of change to give to the client when dealing with transactions. This certain sum of money is known as a float.

An itemised bill showing the total, date and service given as receipt for cash payments should be given to the client and is the correct procedure to follow when dealing with cash. Having an official receipt is a way of verifying the total salon takings for that day and keep record of tax and VAT. VAT may be shown on the bill separately or included in the cost of the service.

ChequesPaying by cheque is probably the second most common method of payment in a salon. When receiving a cheque, it must be supported by a valid cheque guarantee card. This card is a way that the client can guarantee that his or her bank will honour the payment up to the amount shown on the card.

A hand written cheque should contain the following information:

1. Name of recipient

2. Date of issue

3. Signature of client

4. Amount in words and figures

The receptionist should verify that a cheque is valid and correct before accepting it as payment. These are the areas to look out for:

1. Check name of recipient is correct

2. Check date is correct

3. Check amount in figures is correct

4. Check signature with specimen on card

5. Check account number tallies with card

6. Check wording is the same as figures

The guarantee card is handed over with a cheque payment so that the specimen signature on the card can be matched to that on the cheque. The number on the cheque card must be written on the back of the cheque by the receptionist and the date on the card must be checked to see that it has not expired. If a client did not have a cheque guarantee card and the sufficient funds in his or her bank or building society, the cheque would bounce making the payment invalid.

Credit CardsCredit cards are an acceptable method of payment in a salon if the salon owner has applied to a merchant service to be able to accept payment in that way. For example, the salon owner could apply to their bank to enable the acceptance of that payment scheme for future transactions. This would allow a client with that credit card scheme to pay for hairdressing services.

The two main credit card schemes at the moment are 'Mastercard' and 'Visa'. If a salon is able to accept different forms of credit card payment, it should be made clear to customers by displaying the various credit card symbols in the window or at reception.

Customers will find that paying by credit card is easy. The customer would hand the credit card to the receptionist who places the card into a machine and runs a lever across to make an impression of the card which holds the information on a voucher. The client is then asked to sign the voucher. One copy is retained and the other is given to the client as a receipt.

Charge CardsIf a large department store offers salon services, a charge card can be used by the client if they have an account there. Charge cards work and are processed in the same way as credit cards. 'American Express' and 'Diners Club' are the two largest charge cards operating in this way.

Vouchers and TokensVouchers or tokens are a form of payment that a client can use. These vouchers or tokens are bought from the salon in question and are used when the client requires a service or product. A client may not purchase a voucher or token for

his or her self, but may purchase one for a friend or relative as a gift. In other words it is a prepaid service or product that the holder can collect at anytime.

Invalid PaymentsAn invalid payment cannot be accepted by a receptionist. An invalid payment consists of one or any number of faults made by the client on payment, which a receptionist must look out for. For example:

Invalid dates - Check that the date on a credit card or cheque guarantee card has not expired. If it has expired, the payment would be invalid.

Fraudulent PaymentsA fraudulent payment differs from an invalid payment in that it is illegal. An illegal payment might be; forged banknotes (information on this can usually be sought at local police stations, who offer advice and detecting equipment) or stolen credit cards. Some stolen credit cards can be detected by the cards number. Some banks give lists of stolen card numbers to look out for.

Salon ResourcesResponsibilitiesIt is the manager’s responsibility to take regular stock checks to ensure quality and adequate supply to meet the demand. The manager should take account of all stock coming in and out of the stock room. Sometimes the manager will leave certain responsibilities to staff members to carry out. For example, a junior, whose main job is washing hair, may be required to check certain stock, like shampoo and conditioner levels. When a certain product is running low a junior should inform the manager who can then order a replacement.

Ordering and receiving stockThe manager will order replacement stock from a reputable wholesaler. The wholesaler will then deliver the stock with a delivery note or invoice which should contain information on items, volumes, dates, sender and delivery address. The goods should then be checked against the delivery note and moved to a secure location, away from the working area.

Handling stockThe Health & safety at work act, controls the handling of stock - in the act the following sets of regulations apply:

COSHH (Control Of Substances Hazardous to Health)

Workplace (Health, safety & welfare) regulations 1992

Manual handling operations regulations 1992

Personal protective equipment at work regulations 1992

Rotating stockWhen new stock arrives it should be stored with the rest of the stock in hand. The new stock should be stored behind the old stock, so that the older stock will be used first (this is called rotating the stock). If the old stock was kept behind the new stock it may deteriorate and become unusable over a period of time. A good rule to go by is F.I.F.O. (first in first out) and L.I.L.O. (last in last out) which will help to stop stock deterioration.

Retail displayWhen displaying products for retail purposes (sold to clients for home use) product companies will often supply display cabinets. These should be placed in full view of the clients (usually in the reception area) and used to store a small amount of the full range of products. All employees should have a full understanding of the products on sale, so that any queries may be answered quickly by any member of staff. The display should be kept clean and dust free.

Health, safety and salon securityWhen we talk about health and safety in the hairdressing salon, we are talking about the safety and well being of clients as well as yourself and other work colleagues. It's about creating a healthy and safe working environment for all. The practice of Health and safety awareness should become naturally part of your everyday working life.

What hazards to look out for in a salonSome hazards in the salon are less obvious than others. For example:

Hair Waste: During and after a clients hair is cut, the area around the clients styling chair will be covered in small clumps of freshly cut wet hair. If it is not swept away immediately it poses a safety risk to other clients and staff who could easily slip on wet hair.

Chemical Spillage: All chemicals in a hairdressing salon should be treated as hazardous to health. A mixing bowl of pink looking hair tint left lying around may not seem like much of a health risk until a small child eats it thinking it's a tasty bowl of strawberry ice cream. Chemicals should never be left lying around and all spillages should be mopped up off the floor straight away in case somebody slips and hurts themselves.

Working as part of a team & health and safetyHow does working as a team help with salon health and safety? In a salon there is not just one person responsible for health and safety. It is the responsibility of every hairdresser in a salon to look out for potential hazards and to conduct themselves in a safe way. However, you are not just looking out for yourself.

For example: If you aren't doing anything except waiting for your next client or taking a coffee break and you see another member of staff accidentally spill some hair tint on the floor, whilst in the middle of an application, you should clean it up yourself. The other member of staff can't stop to clear it up in the middle of an application. The same goes for hair or anything else lying around on the floor. If you see it, clear it. Even if it wasn't you who left it there.

Working as part of a team is the best way to achieve a healthy and safe working environment in the salon workplace.

InfectionsColds and flu (spread by droplet infection), tinea capitis (a scalp condition) and Impetigo (caused by streptococci) are all fungal, viral or bacterial conditions that can be passed by direct contact or indirect contact from one individual to another, which can cause an infectious condition.

Any suspected infectious condition should be reported to the salon owner immediately so that all the necessary precautions can be made to ensure that other clients and staff will not be at risk from the infection (i.e. sterilisation of tools and equipment). Any client suspected of having an infectious condition, like

ringworm or head lice, should be tactfully referred to a doctor.

Infections can be spread from client to client or from client to hairdresser and in some cases from hairdresser to client. The client may have a very high standard of personal hygiene and pose no risk of infection to anyone, or on the other hand the client may pose the threat of infection. The client’s health is very important so to maintain their health it is important not to pose the threat of infection to them in any way. Therefore it is important that the hairdresser controls the situation by being healthy and hygienic themselves. Legally the employee's are responsible for their own personal health and safety, and the health and safety of their clients.

Posture and DeportmentOver a period of time poor posture and deportment can damage the hairdresser by causing back injuries, muscle spasms, aches and pains which in turn cause tiredness and irritability, and in turn this can cause the hairdresser to be less aware of the hazards that appear in the salon.

COSHHCOSHH stands for 'Control Of Substances Hazardous to Health'.

When preparing and carrying out procedures, involving chemicals, like perming and colouring using personal protective equipment, like gloves and an apron is very important because accidents do occur. You must prepare yourself for any possible hazard at all times. Information regarding protective equipment can be found in the C.O.S.H.H regulations and on product labels.

You have a responsibility under C.O.S.H.H. to store and use hazardous chemicals safely.

Waste DisposalHere are some reasons why waste should be disposed of correctly and how this should be done.

AerosolsHow? - Fully empty. Don't bend or pierce container. Place in bin that will not contain hot ashes.

Why? - Highly flammable. Gasses may ignite.

Chemical wasteHow? - Dilute with water. Wash down basin.

Why? - Contact with chemicals can be harmful, but are less effective when diluted.

Sharps/GlassHow? - Wrap up any sharps in paper or tissue before disposal in cardboard box.

Why? - Sharps and glass can be dangerous if not securely contained.

Recyclable containersHow? - Fully clean and dry containers before clearly marking them.

Ash (ashtrays)How? - Be sure that ash from ashtrays is fully extinguished and cool before disposal

Why? - Could start fire.

Cross InfectionWhen open cuts and abrasions come into contact with pathogenic micro-organisms an infection will occur. Cross infection is when these are passed from person to person, To stop cross-infection from client to client it is important to check the client for any contra-indications like cuts and abrasions on the scalp and sterilise tools before each client.

Government ActsAll tools and equipment should be used in accordance with legislation and local by laws. An employer or employee could be liable if found to be ignorant of the salon rules based on the government act.

To make the running and working of a salon safe for us the environment and for public safety these government acts were past.

Provision and use of work equipment 1992

Personal protective equipment at work 1992

Manual handling operations regulations 1992

Electricity at work regulations 1990

Environmental protection 1990

C.O.S.H.H. act 1989

Health and safety at work act 1974

Fire precautions act 1971

The employers liability act 1969

Ospra 1963

These laws and any information regarding them can be found by contacting your local health and safety office or library.

Manufacturers of products and equipment are bound by their rules on health and safety and so are we. They must label their products and equipment with instructions, hazards and precautions. When using products or equipment it is

important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and precautions because all products and equipment are different and you must be made aware of any extra precautions that must be taken.

When handling products you have a responsibility to abide by the guidelines set by the manufacturer of the product, health and safety and the salon rules based on the government acts.

Handling and Storing

Cutting toolsKeep cutting tools fully sterilised. Be aware that you are using a sharp implement at all times.

Do not store in clothes or pockets. Make sure tools are sterile before storing in a pouch or similar container out of the reach of small children.

Perming / Relaxing productsFollow the manufacturer’s instructions. Wear protective equipment when using. Clean up any spillage immediately.

Store in fully labelled containers and keep containers in a cool, dry, locked cabinet in the stock room.

Colouring productsFollow the manufacturer’s instructions. Wear protective equipment when using. Clean up any spillage immediately.

Store in fully labelled containers and keep containers in a cool, dry, locked cabinet in the stock room.

Styling and finishing productsHandle via the manufacturer’s instructions.

Keep containers in a cool, dry, locked cabinet in the stock room.

Electrical equipmentKnow the manufacturer’s instructions. Check equipment regularly. Do not use near water unless specified by the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure all points are clean and switched off when not in use.

Do not store electrical equipment with trailing flexes. Keep out of the way and switched off.

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