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  • Consumer Aspirations, Claims Investigations, and Product Evaluations

    Birnur K. Aral, PhD

    Good Housekeeping Research Institute

    Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference 2014 London, UK

    June 3-4 2014

  • Good Housekeeping - Founded in 1885

  • Good Housekeeping Research Institute - Established in 1900

  • Our Roll of Honor

  • -The New York Times

    There is a kind of assurance that buying your ring at Tiffany inures you from bad marital juju, as if the union were protected by the Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval.

    An American Icon

  • Tremendous Influence

    Great Deal of Influence

    Some Influence

    92%

    41%

    34%

    17%

    85%

    22%

    33%

    30%

    79%

    14%

    29%

    36%

    76%

    24%

    28%

    24%

    66%

    13%

    22%

    31%

    SOURCE: Fairfield Research, July 2011

    66%

    16%

    23%

    27%

    64%

    13%

    26%

    25%

    47%

    6%

    14%

    27%

    43%

    4%

    12%

    27%

    47%

    4%

    11%

    25%

    37%

    4%

    9%

    24%

    Seal Emblem Recognition

  • Health, Beauty, and Environmental Sciences Lab Product Categories

    Beauty Products OTC drugs, dietary supplements Water filtration devices Insecticides, pesticides Pet food

    Consumer Advocacy Is It Safe to Heat Food in Plastic? Keratin Hair Treatments: Do they

    contain formaldehyde? Is Your Tap Water Safe? Partnered

    with U. of Arizona and U. of Nebraska Our Reach

    20 million magazine readers 4.5million unique visitors to

    goodhousekeeping.com Product Reviews Channel Inside the Institute Blog

    157K unique visitors a month 7 Years Younger best-selling books National and local TV, radio,

    newspaper interviews

    http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/

  • Instrumentation Climatology Chamber Visia Complexion Analyzer-Canfield Corneometer- Courage-Khazaka Cutometer- Courage-Khazaka MPA 580 TEWL-cyberDERM RG-1-Evaporimeter Chromameter-Minolta CR-310 Wash Station-Custom design Mechanical Tester-Instron Model 5944 with

    TRIs Comb attachment Shine Cylinder-Custom design Consumer Panel

    Survey Monkey Survey Analytics Panel Size: 4000+

    85% Female On-Site Testers: 350+

    100+ within Hearst Tower At least 22 testers enrolled per product

    Methodology

  • Launched in 2010 AA Skin Categories

    Day creams with SPF Night creams Eye creams Serums Age-spot treatments Peels Instant wrinkle smoothers Firming Creams Lip treatments Hand Creams Sunscreens Body Lotions

    AA Hair AA Makeup Categories

    Foundations Primers Concealers Lipsticks Plumpers

  • 2,478 Female testers age 35 or older Average age: 49

    Products Screened: 1083 Advisory boards

    Top dermatologists Top makeup artists

    Products Tested: 271 Consumer questionnaires tallied: 5,778 Visia before-and-after pictures: 12,337 Corneometer data points: 20,820 Cutometer data points: 11,696 Products Awarded: 69 Winners: http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/product-reviews/

    The Story In Numbers

    http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/product-reviews/

  • Topicals do have limitations but you can get good results

    62 year old subject after 8 weeks of daily use of drugstore brand day moisturizer with SPF 30 containing retinol

  • At times you can get striking results

    80 year old subject after 8 weeks of twice daily use of drugstore brand serum with pro-retinol

  • Price doesnt always correlate with performance Boots No7 Protect and Perfect Serum ($21/1 oz)

    Gold in 2010 La Prairie Cellular Power Charge Night Cream ($475/1.35 oz)

    Gold in 2013 Facial Moisturizers

    With SPF 30 (2013) less moisturizing than those with SPF 15 SPF 30- ~6.5% at 6 hrs. SPF15- ~19% at 6 hrs.

    Night creams tested in 2013 in two categories w/ and w/o retinol performed similarly in the lab and with consumers Products w/retinol more potent but not tolerated as well

    panelists skipping 1-3 days between use Anti-ageing makeup

    Were skeptical at first but Moisturizing and/or firming foundations and concealers No significant improvements in wrinkles

    Fragrance: Very polarizing- Have to get it right! Categories we saw improvements from 2010 to 2013

    Peels: Pad applicators Instant wrinkle smoothers: More visible improvements

    Serums: Emergence of dropper applicators in 2013 : Not a fan!

    Some General Observations

  • Sun Protection - Best Action Against Skins Ageing Results from our latest Sunscreen Test

    17 Broad Spectrum SPF 50 products with 80 min water-resistance Best sellers as per each brand 9 Lotions + 6 aerosols+1 gel+ 1milk 14 chemical sunscreens + 3 mineral/physical sunscreens

    Field test in Summer 2013 + stain testing in the Lab Each product distributed to minimum of 22 testers

    15-22 Returned per product N=332

    In 41 states Ages 18 and above ~5% of tester pool was male They used it at least twice while outdoors in the sun

    66% exercised outdoors such as jogging and biking 52% went to the pool or swam 37% went to the beach 24% were involved in other activities, which included

    yard work/gardening, playing tennis, etc. 16% went boating/sailing

  • Consumers generally satisfied with the sunscreen category

    All scored excellent for preventing from sunburn and quite well for water resistance.

    Consumer Satisfaction #1-Chemical sunscreens non-aerosols #2-Mineral sunscreens #3-Chemical sunscreens - aerosols

    Low in fragrance, texture, and irritation/stinging attributes

    Low in being oily/greasy/slippery and leaving a filmy residue

    Did not score higher for ease of application Stain Testing performance

    1- Mineral sunscreens 2- Chemical sunscreens non-aerosols 3- Chemical sunscreens - aerosols

    General Results

  • Ease of Use + Performance Predictor variables (12) 1. This product was easy to apply to my body. 2. This product had a pleasant fragrance. 3. I liked the texture of this product. 4. The product absorbed well into my skin. 5. This product did not leave a filmy residue on my skin. 6. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation. 7. This product did not stain or rub off on clothing, swimsuit, towel,

    furniture, etc. 8. This product did not feel tacky on my skin 9. This product did not feel greasy/oily/slippery on my skin. 10.This product didnt make my skin feel dry. 11.This product resisted water well. 12. I didnt get sunburn during the times I used this product.

    Satisfaction Dependent/criterion variable (1) 1. Overall, I was satisfied with the product to continue using it.

    Open-ended Likes Dislikes Other Comments

    SPSS Analysis- Linear Regression

  • Most Important Attributes That Drive Consumers

    First Zero-order correlations of all 12 variables was carried out then a stepwise multiple regression was conducted

    R2= 0.67 1. I like the texture of this product : 0.376 2. This product was easy to apply to my body: 0.240 3. This product absorbed well into my skin: 0.222 4. This product did not stain or rub off on clothing, swimsuit, towel,

    furniture, etc.: 0.185 5. This product had a pleasant fragrance: 0.177 6. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation: 0.113

    Text analysis feature of Survey Monkey used to analyze comments for Likes

    1. Easy to apply/Easily/Application 2. Greasy/ Not oily/Texture 3. Smell/Fragrance 4. Protected/Burn 5. Absorbed

  • What Sways Consumers Decision Negatively Looked at outliers in our data where a consumers overall

    satisfaction behaved in an unpredictable way A larger data set is ideal When disliked following were among those that swayed

    consumers overall satisfaction negatively. 1. This product had a pleasant fragrance. 2. This product did not leave a filmy residue. 3. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation. 4. This product did not feel drying

    The text analysis feature of the Survey Monkey was utilized

    to analyze open-ended consumers Dislikes 1. Smell/Scent/Fragrance/Odor 2. Greasy 3. White/Residue

  • Do you specifically look for beauty products with anti-ageing benefits?

    0.9

    0.1

    0%

    20%

    40%

    60%

    80%

    100%

    Yes No

    Understanding consumers habits and unmet needs in AA Skin Care

    Polled ~1,200 female US consumers in March 2014

    Majority of panel testing anti-ageing products for us for the last 5 years

    Age range 22 to 83 with average at 48

    86.5% Caucasian, 4.7% Hispanic, 3.9% Asian, 3.2% African American

    State of Anti-Ageing Skin care - Consumer Insights

  • Since what age have you been using skin care products with anti-ageing claims?

    0.02

    0.16

    0.35 0.33

    0.14

    0%

    5%

    10%

    15%

    20%

    25%

    30%

    35%

    40%

    Since myteen years

    Since mytwenties

    Since mythirties

    Since myforties

    Since myfifties

  • What is the one anti-ageing product type that you have seen results with and cant live without?

    0.03

    0.24

    0.1

    0.17

    0.14

    0.01 0.01

    0.15

    0.01

    0.1

    0.03

    0%

    5%

    10%

    15%

    20%

    25%

    30%

    Anti-agingFacial

    Cleanser

    Anti-agingDay

    Moisturizer

    FacialSunscreen

    Anti-agingNight Cream

    Anti-agingSerum

    Anti