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Construction Guidelines

JACKETS

Lined

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 2 November 2009

TABLE of CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 4

CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS: ............................................................................................................................................... 4

STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS - LINED JACKET: .................................................................................................................................... 4

STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-27) ........................................................................................................ 4

FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES ......................................................................................................................................................... 5Fusible with Floating Canvas Chest Piece: .............................................................................................................................................. 5Taping for Floating Canvas Chest Piece: ................................................................................................................................................. 7Taping for Floating Canvas with Felt on Canvas Chest Piece: ............................................................................................................. 8Fusible with Fused Chest Piece: ............................................................................................................................................................. 9Taping for Fused Chest Piece: .............................................................................................................................................................. 10

STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKETS: ..................................................................................................... 11General Seams: ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 11Panel Seam (with ease at bust area) .................................................................................................................................................. 11Shoulder Seam ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 12Princess Seam Round Shape / Angled ............................................................................................................................................... 12Sleeve Ease: .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 13Armhole ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 13Collar (Banana Stand Top & Under Collar); 2 Pc Under Collar ................................................................................................................ 14Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc Under Collar); with Faux Stand Stitch ....................................................................................................... 15Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc Under Collar); No Faux Stand Stitch ......................................................................................................... 15Lapel / Collar & Neck Join Seam ........................................................................................................................................................... 16Edge Seams: ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 16

LEATHER SEAMING ................................................................................................................................................................................. 17Lockstitch Glued Open Press ............................................................................................................................................................. 17Lockstitch Glued Pressed Closed ....................................................................................................................................................... 17

SWEEP VENT CLOSED; BLOCKED HEM: ............................................................................................................................................. 18

2-PIECE SLEEVE W/ CLOSED VENT ........................................................................................................................................................ 19

SHOULDER PAD & SLEEVE HEAD SETTINGS: ....................................................................................................................................... 20

SHOULDER PAD / LINING ATTACHMENT: .............................................................................................................................................. 21

BODY LINING - BACK WITH KNIFE PLEAT AT CENTER BACK: ............................................................................................................... 22

ENVELOPE FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISH ................................................................................................................................. 22

EXCEPTION FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISHES: .......................................................................................................................... 23

LAPEL EDGE/FRONT EDGE FINISH: ........................................................................................................................................................ 23

LINING FINISHING:................................................................................................................................................................................... 24

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 3 November 2009

LINING INSIDE POCKET - WEARERS LEFT FRONT: ............................................................................................................................... 24

BUTTON SETTING .................................................................................................................................................................................... 25

DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING ............................................................................................................................................. 26

STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 28-52) ................................................................................................................. 28

DARTS: ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 28

COLLAR OPTIONS: .................................................................................................................................................................................. 29Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Pc Under Collar (with and without Edgestitch at Stand seam) ............................................................. 29Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Pc. Under Collar Collar w/o Stand (w/ and w/o Faux Stitch) ............................................................ 30Collars with Full Stand: .......................................................................................................................................................................... 31Collar w/ Full Stand................................................................................................................................................................................ 32Mandarin Collar ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 32

FACING TYPES AND PIECED LAPELS: .................................................................................................................................................... 33

KISSING CLOSURES: ............................................................................................................................................................................... 36

SLIT W/ MITERED CORNER: .................................................................................................................................................................... 37

WELT POCKETS: ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 38

CHEST POCKET: ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 39

BESOM POCKETS: .......................................................................................................................................