Construction Jackets

Click here to load reader

  • date post

    27-Dec-2015
  • Category

    Documents

  • view

    30
  • download

    3

Embed Size (px)

description

description of construction of sweater knits. you will get all the details here.

Transcript of Construction Jackets

  • Ann Taylor Ann Taylor Loft

    Ann Taylor Factory Stores

    Construction Guidelines

    JACKETS

    Lined

  • Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

    Jackets - Lined 2 November 2009

    TABLE of CONTENTS

    INTRODUCTION: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 4

    CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS: ............................................................................................................................................... 4

    STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS - LINED JACKET: .................................................................................................................................... 4

    STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-27) ........................................................................................................ 4

    FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES ......................................................................................................................................................... 5Fusible with Floating Canvas Chest Piece: .............................................................................................................................................. 5Taping for Floating Canvas Chest Piece: ................................................................................................................................................. 7Taping for Floating Canvas with Felt on Canvas Chest Piece: ............................................................................................................. 8Fusible with Fused Chest Piece: ............................................................................................................................................................. 9Taping for Fused Chest Piece: .............................................................................................................................................................. 10

    STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKETS: ..................................................................................................... 11General Seams: ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 11Panel Seam (with ease at bust area) .................................................................................................................................................. 11Shoulder Seam ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 12Princess Seam Round Shape / Angled ............................................................................................................................................... 12Sleeve Ease: .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 13Armhole ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 13Collar (Banana Stand Top & Under Collar); 2 Pc Under Collar ................................................................................................................ 14Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc Under Collar); with Faux Stand Stitch ....................................................................................................... 15Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc Under Collar); No Faux Stand Stitch ......................................................................................................... 15Lapel / Collar & Neck Join Seam ........................................................................................................................................................... 16Edge Seams: ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 16

    LEATHER SEAMING ................................................................................................................................................................................. 17Lockstitch Glued Open Press ............................................................................................................................................................. 17Lockstitch Glued Pressed Closed ....................................................................................................................................................... 17

    SWEEP VENT CLOSED; BLOCKED HEM: ............................................................................................................................................. 18

    2-PIECE SLEEVE W/ CLOSED VENT ........................................................................................................................................................ 19

    SHOULDER PAD & SLEEVE HEAD SETTINGS: ....................................................................................................................................... 20

    SHOULDER PAD / LINING ATTACHMENT: .............................................................................................................................................. 21

    BODY LINING - BACK WITH KNIFE PLEAT AT CENTER BACK: ............................................................................................................... 22

    ENVELOPE FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISH ................................................................................................................................. 22

    EXCEPTION FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISHES: .......................................................................................................................... 23

    LAPEL EDGE/FRONT EDGE FINISH: ........................................................................................................................................................ 23

    LINING FINISHING:................................................................................................................................................................................... 24

  • Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

    Jackets - Lined 3 November 2009

    LINING INSIDE POCKET - WEARERS LEFT FRONT: ............................................................................................................................... 24

    BUTTON SETTING .................................................................................................................................................................................... 25

    DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING ............................................................................................................................................. 26

    STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 28-52) ................................................................................................................. 28

    DARTS: ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 28

    COLLAR OPTIONS: .................................................................................................................................................................................. 29Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Pc Under Collar (with and without Edgestitch at Stand seam) ............................................................. 29Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Pc. Under Collar Collar w/o Stand (w/ and w/o Faux Stitch) ............................................................ 30Collars with Full Stand: .......................................................................................................................................................................... 31Collar w/ Full Stand................................................................................................................................................................................ 32Mandarin Collar ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 32

    FACING TYPES AND PIECED LAPELS: .................................................................................................................................................... 33

    KISSING CLOSURES: ............................................................................................................................................................................... 36

    SLIT W/ MITERED CORNER: .................................................................................................................................................................... 37

    WELT POCKETS: ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 38

    CHEST POCKET: ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 39

    BESOM POCKETS: .......................................................................................................................................