Constructing a Professional Worktable Plan A: 48”W x 72”L x 37”H

Plan B: 60”W x 120”L x 34”H A professional workroom table is one of the most important tools used in creating custom window treat-ments, providing a stable, versatile surface for cutting, pinning and ironing fabrics, tabling drapery panels, creating patterns, upholstering cornices and more. Th is must-have workroom fi xture will last for the lifetime of your business with occasional recovering.

©Rowley Company 2011 1

Plan A - Materials and Supplies:

Items2x4x8 (9)

¾” Plywood (1 full sheet)½” Plywood (1 full sheet)4x4x8 (2)Casters (4) - #TC11½” x 2” Lag Bolts (16)Deck Brackets (16)2 ½” wood screws1 5/8” wood screwsPinnable Underlayment (6 pcs) - #TC24/8Table Padding (2 yds) - #TC10

ItemsTable Canvas (2 yds) - #TC72Various SawsAir compressor and staple gun - #NSG103/8” Staples - #NS33/EScrew Gun3/16th” Drill BitUtility KnifeCarpenter’s SquareMarking PencilTape Measure

Step-by-Step - Plan A:

Cutting the wood pieces2x4 cuts:1. You will need to cut and build 2 frames – 1 for the top shelf and 1 for the bottom shelf.

Cut 4 @68”; Cut 8 @41”a. Keep the scraps of wood –they will be used as additional b. braces for the casters.

Plywood cuts:2. Th e plywood can be cut into smaller strips if needed for transportation purposes.

Cut 1 @ 44x68 (½” piece); Cut 1 @ 48x72 (¾ ” piece).a. On the ½” piece (bottom shelf ), cut out the corners for b. the legs.

At each corner, measure in 1 ½” on 2 sides, then trace i. around the top of the leg piece. Cut the corner away, cutting slightly larger than the marks. (Photo 1)

4x4 cuts:3.

Cut 4 pieces at 31 ¼”. a. Table fi nished height* is 37”. 37.5” (caster height) – ¾” b. (padding height) = 31 ¼”.

*Table height should suit the user. To determine height, measure from the fl oor to between the hip and the elbow, or at height comfortable for standing.

Shows all pieces cut

Photo 1

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Prepping the wood for the legsDecide on the height of the bottom shelf. Cut a spare piece of 2x4 to that height minus 5” for the caster. (Photo 2)1. Screw the 2x4 piece to the 4x4 leg pieces, making sure the bottoms and one side are fl ush.2. Line up the casters on the bottom of the leg pieces. Mark the hole placement. (Photo 3)Pre-drill the holes for the lag 3. bolts. (Photo 4)Using the lag bolts, secure the casters to the leg pieces. (Photo 5)4.

Building the framesComplete the two frames by placing the shorter 2x4 cuts inside of the longer 2x4 cuts.1. Be sure all corners are square and that the shorter 2x4’s are straight. (Photo 6)2. Screw the frame together, using 2 screws per end for each shorter 2x4. 3. Lay the leg assemblies in the corners of the bottom frame and attach using the longer wood screws. Use two screws per 4. side per leg assembly. (Photo 7)Slide the top frame onto the assembled piece. 5. Screw top frame to assembly as above.6. Place a desk bracket at each intersection of leg to frame, on both the top and bottom shelf. Screw in the deck brackets. 7. (Photo 8)

Photo 9 shows the completed frame assemblya.

Photo 2

Photo 3

Photo 4

Photo 5

Photo 6 Photo 7 Photo 8 Photo 9

Putting in the shelvesLay the bottom shelf in place.1. Mark a reference line between end screws across the face 2. of the bottom shelf. (Photo10)Screw in place using the shorter screws.3. Place the top shelf on the top of the frame assembly, being 4. sure there is a 2” lip around all four sides. (Photo11)Mark a reference line across the face of the top layer.5. Screw in place using the shorter screws.6. Mark a reference line 2 ¾” in, around all four sides on the 7. top.Continue to screw the top down along the outside 8. perimeter.

Photo 10 Photo 11

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Cutting and Attaching Pinnable UnderlaymentLay out the 24x24” Pinnable Underlayment pieces on the top of the table, butting the pieces together for tight seams.1.

Cut pieces to fi t as needed. Be sure to stagger seams if piecing is needed.a. Screw the Pinnable Underlayment to the table top, using the shorter screws.2.

Do NOT over-tighten the screws. Screws should fi nish fl ush with the surface.a. Use only enough screws to secure the material.b.

Applying the Table PaddingRoll out the table padding onto the top of the table. Let it rest for a few hours to relax any fold marks from shipping.1. Trim the Table Padding to the size of the Pinnable Underlayment. (Photo 12)2.

Photo 12

Applying the Table CanvasRoll out the Table Canvas onto the table top. Let it rest for a few 1. hours to release any wrinkles from shipping. (Photo 13)Beginning at the center of one long side, staple the canvas in place 2. using only a few staple.Stretch the canvas to the other long side and staple in place, using 3. only a few staples. On one of the long sides, work your way from the center out, stapling 4. as you go. Staple all the way to the corners. On the opposite long side, stretch the canvas across the table top and 5. staple in place, working your way from the center out.Complete the same process for the short sides of the table.6. At the corners, fold the excess material to one side, making a 457. o fold. Trim off excess canvas and staple under table edge. (Photo 14)Lightly dampen the canvas.8. Using a steam iron, starting at the center and working your way out 9. to the edges, steam iron the canvas for a fi nal stretched fi t.

Photo 13

Photo 14

©Rowley Company 2011 4

Plan B - Materials and Supplies:

Items2x4x10 (8)

¾” Plywood (2 full sheets)½” plywood (2 full sheets)4x4x10 (2)Casters (6) - #TC11½” x 2” Lag Bolts (24)Deck Brackets (24)2 ½” wood screws1 5/8” wood screwsPinnable Underlayment (13 pcs) 1 each: #TC24/5 and #TC24/8Table Padding (4 yds) - #TC10

ItemsTable Canvas (4 yds) - #TC72Various SawsAir compressor and staple gun - #NSG103/8” Staples - #NS33/EScrew Gun3/16th” Drill BitUtility KnifeCarpenter’s SquareMarking PencilTape Measure

Step-by-Step - Plan B: is table measures 60W x 120L x 34H*. All

gured for this table size. nished height, length or width,

you will need to adjust the materials needed.

e top of the table will measure 60” x 120”, with a 2” lip e bottom shelf will measure 56”

e outside measurements for the two frames will nish at 56” x 116” – therefore the frame cuts will be:

2x4 Cuts:• Cut 4 @ 116”; Cut 12 @ 53”; Cut 6 @ 7” (leg braces); and, Cut 2 @ 17” (frame brace).

4x4 Cuts:• Cut 6 @ 28 ¼”. (34 – 5 – ¾” = 28 ¼”)

¾” Plywood Cuts:• Cut 2 sheets at 48” x 60”. Cut the scraps into 2 pieces each @ 24” x 30”.

½” Plywood Cuts:• Cut2 sheets at 48” x 56”. Cut the scraps into 2 pieces each @ 20” x 28”.

e frames are made the same as for the smaller table above. Place the shorter 2x4 cuts inside the longer 2x4 cuts and secure with screws. Each frame will have 5 internal braces. See Illustration I.

*Table height should suit the user. To determine height, oor to between the hip and the elbow, or at

height comfortable for standing.

116"

Illustration I - 2 x 4 layout

56"

24"

24"

24"

24"

20"

28" 28"

Constructing a Professional Worktable Plan B: 60”W x 120”L x 34”H

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Both the table top and bottom will require you to butt four pieces together. See Illustration II below.

Illustration II - Plywood LayoutTop

60"

60"

30" 30"

120"

48"

48"

24"

60"

Bottom

56"

56"

28" 28"

56"