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Congratulations on Adopting

Your New Cat!

San Francisco Animal Care & Control / 1200 15th St / San Francisco CA 94103 / 415.554.6364

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From all of us at SF Animal Care & Control,

Congratulations on Your New Cat!

Starting off your relationship with your cat is fun, exciting, and quite the adventure – but it never hurts to be prepared!

In this packet, you will find general information, frequently asked questions, and behavior & training advice from a variety of exceptional animal welfare

organizations.

If you ever have any questions regarding your cat’s behavior, please feel free to call us at the shelter!

General Shelter Services - 415.554.6364

Behavior & Training Department - 415.934.4821

Adoption Supply Checklist Collar

ID Tag

Cat Food

Food & Water Bowls

Toys & Teasers

Flea Control

Litter & Litter Box

Treats

Grooming Tools

Bed

Play Structure / Scratching Post

As an SF/ACC adopter, you are entitled to a free veterinary exam with SFVMA. Appointments must be made within 3 working days of adoption.

***Don’t forget to register your new animal’s microchip!***

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Welcome Home Kitty!

What To Expect From Your New Furry Friend

It is important to remember that – while your new cat is SO lucky to have you – transportation,

new caretakers, and new surroundings are stressful and can prove overwhelming. Making sure

your new family member starts off on the right paw requires not only certain equipment and

adjustments to your home, but patience and understanding for your feline companion.

The First Few Hours/Days:

When you arrive home, place the carrier containing

the cat in the “safe haven,” where you will be

confining her while she adjusts to her new home.

See below on how to ideally arrange this room.

Open the carrier and let the cat come out on her

own. She may not want to come out, or may spring

out at once - it all depends on the cat and their

level of confidence.

Visit her often in the safe room, play with her, love

on her - at her own pace. Never force attention or petting on your cat. Let her hang out in that

room until she is at the door BEGGING to be let out. This could be on the first day or it could be

several days; when she is completely comfortable in her safe haven and with the people in the

household, she will be increasingly curious about the rest of the home, pawing at the exit. Let

her explore the rest of the household at her own pace; often the exploring is done at night,

making brief excursions into the new territory, and rapid retreats back to familiar ground. If

there are other animals in the household, please see “Introducing Your New Cat to the Resident

Cat” and “Dog-to-Cat Introductions” to make sure first their impressions are positive!

Keep your eye on the cat as much as possible as they start to explore. It is a good idea to have a

collar with a bell on her so that you can hear her in case you can’t see her. This is especially

important with small cats or kittens who are more likely to get into tiny spaces that

you may not even know about. If you do find they have gotten under the stove,

behind the washing machine, or some other narrow spot, a toy is a great way to lure

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them out. If they are food motivated, a treat trail back to you can also encourage them to come

out from hiding. Remember cats are curious and they will continue to push boundaries as their

confidence grows.

It takes time for many rescued animals to trust and respond to their guardians. Possibly the

greatest part of adoption is seeing your animal blossom into the cat she was meant to be.

Having patience and letting the cat approach you first is critical for instilling confidence and

comfort in a new environment.

“The Safe Haven” – Setup

The first thing any new adopter wants to do is let your

new cat get comfortable in their new home. For the

best transition, before you bring your new cat home,

designate a “safe” room to start her out in. Moving into

a new place can be stressful for cats, so this transition

should be gradual and could take days or even weeks. It

will also be a place for her to retreat to if she needs

space or alone time. If you have another cat or dog this

room becomes even more important.

Ideally, this room is small, quiet, can be closed off, and is mostly free of furniture or anything

your cat can hide in or under where you can’t get to her. The best rooms are usually a

bathroom, small bedroom, or large, ventilated closet. Place the cat’s food and water as far

away from the litter box as possible, some toys, something to scratch on, and bedding (it’s

great to put linens or clothing that has your smell on it with her so she can start getting used to

your smell). Be sure all windows are sealed shut or if you do need to provide ventilation, that

they are securely screened.

Settling In & Kitty-Proofing

Visit your new kitty in the safe haven when you can, cuddling, and most importantly, playing

with her. Play is the best way for a cat to build confidence, and confidence helps keep the cat’s

stress to a minimum and allows her to adjust more successfully.

Take advantage of the confinement time to make sure there are no toxic materials or other

hazards out in the household that the cat could get into. Ideally, get on the ground and see your

house from the cat’s point of view so that you have a better idea of what she would be exposed

to. Things like wires could hopefully be moved off the floor and precious objects moved out of

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harm’s way. Take a look at the list of household hazards to get an idea of things that are

dangerous for your kitty. Also, the ASPCA’s online Poison Control Center has an exhaustive

database of toxic substances and you can also search to see whether something is poisonous to

your cat.

Is It Normal When…?

SF/ACC’s Behavior & Training department aims to be a resource for all of our adopters when

you are feeling overwhelmed, confused, or just need some facts! That’s fine – you’re a new

parent!

Please feel welcome to give us a call or shoot us an email whenever you need to and we will do

our best to answer your questions or get you the referrals you need. And please let us know

how you and your companion are faring – after all, everyone loves to hear a happy ending!

The Behavior & Training Department of SF/ACC

415.934.4821 / ACC.BehaviorTraining@sfgov.org

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A Happy Cat is a Stimulated Cat!

Playtime with cats of all ages is important for their overall health and well-being. Whether an

older feline or kitten youngster, keeping them physically fit and mentally active will prevent

naughty boredom or stress-related behaviors such as excessive vocalization, obesity and

various medical problems as they age, and increase their day-to-day quality of life.

How to Play With Your Cat Interactive Toys - While you may have lots of toys around the house for your cat, they’re

essentially “dead” prey; they don’t move. The only way to create action is if your cat bats at

them. The interactive, fishing pole type toys, or “teasers,” (fantastic options include Neko Flies

and Go Cat’s “DaBird” and “Cat Catcher”) are the best way to get your cat playing with you. This

way, she doesn’t have to be both predator and prey – she can simply focus on being the hunter.

How you move the interactive toy is important. Don’t wave it around frantically; instead, think

about how your cat naturally hunts. In the wild, a cat stalks her prey, staying as quiet and

invisible as possible, inching closer and closer, until she’s within striking distance. Your goal is to

move the toy like prey, alternating between fast and slow motions, traveling behind, under and

over things. TIP: your cat’s prey drive is triggered by movements

going away from or across her field of vision, so dangling the toy in

her face or moving it toward her will not excite her playfully.

Let her have plenty of captures throughout the game. If you were

a cat, it would be frustrating if you never got your paws on the

toy. This is one of the downsides of relying on laser pointers, as

the cat can never truly catch her prey. Interactive play can build

confidence and trust in your cat but in order for that to happen,

she has to be able to plan her moves and have successful captures. Store all interactive toys out

of your cat’s reach when you are not playing.

Puzzle Toys can be a great way to keep your cats entertained and mentally stimulated when

you can’t play with them. The toys are designed to be filled with treats, and they challenge kitty

to retrieve the treats through varied openings in the toys.

Rotate toys in and out. Don’t keep the same toys out in the same spot all the time – this will

almost guarantee that your cats will get bored with them. Put some toys away for a week or

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two, and then bring them out again. Your cats will think they got a brand new toy. Of course,

you don’t want to do this if your cat has a favorite toy that she plays with all the time.

Cat toys don’t need to be expensive. To a cat, almost everything can become a toy: grocery

bags with the handles cut off, boxes, toilet paper rolls, milk carton tops, tissue paper – in a cat’s

mind, these were all just made to be played with. Some cats enjoy chasing bubbles, or batting

Q-tips around the bathtub. Or throw pieces of cat kibble across the room or down the hall for

kitty to chase and catch - think like a cat, and you may be surprised at the things you already

have in your home that make the purr-fect cat toy.

Pencil Me In! – Scheduled Play Maintain a regular schedule of interactive play with your cat. Cats love routine, so try not to

change the play times. Aim for two or three (more if necessary) play sessions, of 10-20 minutes

each (depending on how athletic he is) at the times when he seems to be most active. The play

sessions should not stop until the cat is exhausted, lying on his side and batting at the toy

because he is too tired to jump or chase after it.

When it’s time to end the game don’t just suddenly stop and put the toy away. Your cat may

still be very revved up. Instead, wind the action down, in the same way you would do a cool-

down after an exercise. Let the prey slowly get tired or injured so the

cat’s movements will naturally slow down as well. Then, leave your cat

with one final grand capture.

You’d be surprised what a ½ hour a day of playtime and fun can do for

a cat’s emotional and physical health! There are many ways to give

your cat what they need to thrive, but interaction with you is the most

important.

Environmental Enrichment Giving your cat ways to stay physically active is a very important part of cat ownership. There

are many interactive play structures such as cat trees, window beds, and scratching posts to

choose from. Make sure you offer at least one of these structures to your new cat.

Scratching Posts

Scratching is a normal cat behavior that provides relief from over-grown nails, scent-marks their

favorite areas, and gives them some mental stimulation – all normal cat behaviors! Our job as

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their guardians is to help provide acceptable outlets for this instead of

the couch, your La-Z-boy, or the bed!

The most common cause of furniture scratching is the lack of an

appropriate outlet for this normal cat behavior! Scratching posts,

located in an accessible & central area, will fulfill this need without the

drama.

To work with this behavior:

1. Give your cat an adequate scratching post. Scratching is a

natural behavior to mark their territory, stretch their muscles,

relieve stress, and give themselves a nice mani-pedi!

2. Correction or punishment, such as yelling or squirting with a

water bottle, is not appropriate in this case. Cats learn quickly

that the punishment only happens when humans are around,

and will just return to scratching furniture when you leave.

They may also scratch furniture anticipating some attention,

which can indeed be reinforcing even if it is negative.

3. Make the furniture an unappealing place to scratch by using tin-foil, double sided tape,

or a product called Sticky Paws. These are all unpleasant sensations for a kitty trying to

scratch.

4. Encourage your cat to use the scratching post by using treats, toys or catnip to lure

them into a natural stretching position. Praise them for using their post instead of the

couch if your cat seems to respond to that.

Window Beds

Window beds or perches that allow your cat to experience the world outside (without the

hazards) is a great, easy way to help keep your cat stimulated! Observing the birds outside,

experiencing the sounds and sights of the traffic and passers-by, all of this effectively becomes

“kitty-TV” and will help with boredom or attention-seeking

behaviors.

Cat Trees & Play Structures

Cats love to be high up and observe the goings-on of their

household; not only is it fun and good exercise to climb, it also

serves to give them a space away from other people or animals

when they need a break, decreasing the chance of potential

anxiety-related behaviors. Again, this is a normal cat behavior

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that needs to have an outlet or say goodbye to your nicely-decorated bookshelves! Cat

furniture generally has scratching posts built into the structure, which can channel both their

scratching and climbing needs at once. We recommend that every household invest in a play

structure or at least provide shelving along a wall, like a cat climbing wall, that the cat can perch

on and call their own.

When they don’t have outlets for these needs, they may start climbing up on your dresser,

kitchen table or counters. In a playful mode, they may start batting at small objects, trying to

knock them off. Not only does this provide them with some playful activity, but they may get a

response from their human out of it – a major attention-seeking bonus for a bored feline.

1. Start by giving your cat its own cat condo or high-up

places to hang out, such as a padded shelf. More

interactive playtime with toys such as the cat dancer, in

addition to solo play toys (ping pong balls, fuzzy mice)

will provide much-needed mental stimulation.

2. Praise the kitty for using its cat tree, and make it a fun

place to be – try placing some catnip, kitty treats, or

solo play toys on the cat tree. Incorporate the kitty

condo into your interactive playtime – get your cat climbing or jumping on it to chase a

toy.

While rearranging your furniture and making time for play may not initially be appealing, this

relationship-building will enrich your cat’s life and keep kitty content during transition and after

the fact.

Overstimulation & Play “Aggression”

What is it & Why does it happen? Play is a cat’s opportunity to express their innate instinct to hunt, chase and kill prey. The house

cat’s wild ancestors had to hone these skills in order to survive, and feral cats still need them.

Those that live inside with us may not need them but their natural urges never go away. That’s

why the domestic cat is always exploring new areas, investigating anything that moves, and

batting, pouncing, and biting anything that resembles prey.

Cats have two types of play behavior: solitary play and social play. Solitary play is directed

towards objects like boxes, strings, paper bags, and other toys. Social play is directed towards

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fellow cats, people and other animals. A problem can arise when a cat’s play is directed towards

people, and despite his playful intentions, his claws and teeth hurt or injure his human

playmate. Although painful, this is not true aggression, which is most likely to occur when a cat

is frightened and feeling threatened. It is more likely that he is just playing roughly. It is

important to know how to read a cat’s body language, so one can determine a cat’s state of

mind (see the Body Language handout) and respond accordingly.

Usually, play-motivated “aggressive” behaviors are observed in young, active cats less than two

years of age, that live in one-cat households. Cats stalk, chase, pounce, swat, kick, scratch and

bite each other—all in good fun. However,

people often misinterpret this kind of

behavior as aggression when it’s directed

toward them. Cats that have other kittens

to play with while growing up learn to

inhibit their bite and claws when wrestling

with their brothers and sisters, knowing

when rough is too rough.

How people play with kittens or young cats can make the difference between kittens becoming

gentle cats or hard and rough players. Humans encourage the development of rough play by

playing with their cat, usually when it is young, with their body parts. Rough-housing with

bare hands is almost irresistible when kittens are small. Unfortunately, it’s also a great way to

teach a cat that bare hands are either threatening or okay to play with. It’s adorable when

they’re little, but when the cat is 15 pounds with adult teeth and claws…not so much! The

consequence is not being able to walk through the house without the cat pouncing on moving

feet or legs, or not being able to extend a hand to pet the cat without it getting gnawed on or

wrestled with.

These behaviors are absolutely fixable, although it will take time and consistent effort to instill

new habits in the cat and its human companions. Here are the first steps to take in order to

reduce rough play:

Never Play With Your Hands & Feet Do not encourage your cat to play with your hands, feet or any other body part. While it may be

fun when you have a tiny kitten, it becomes painful and dangerous as your kitten grows up.

Never physically punish your cat for rough play. If you hit or slap your cat, he may perceive

your actions as play and become even rougher. Alternatively, he might become fearful of your

hands and respond by avoiding you or changing from play to true aggression. Never run from

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your cat or try to block his movements with your feet, as that could cause your cat to intensify

his play or become aggressive.

Don’t Engage with Rough Play If your cat starts to play roughly with your hands, arms, feet, or any other body part, do not

move or pull away quickly. Quick actions could be interpreted by the cat as playing and

encourage him to go after you. Instead, go limp or don’t move. The cat will soon lose interest

when he realizes you are no fun to play with.

Healthy Play: Redirect Play to Toys Always use a toy to play with your cat. If you are petting her and she starts gnawing on you,

stop moving, say “no” and provide an alternative to your arm or hand, such as a stuffed animal

about the same size or long stuffed log toy she can wrestle with and gnaw on. Encourage her by

rubbing the toy against her belly so she can grab it with both front feet, bite it, and kick it with

her back feet.

If you are walking through the house and your cat jumps out in front of you directly into your

path, she is definitely trying to get your attention and wants to play. In these moments it is

important to play with her for a minute or two so that her urge is satisfied in a positive way.

Whether that’s breaking out a wand toy and making her jump a few times in a row or throwing

some kibble across the room for her to chase and catch, a brief session may suffice.

Cats are not always going to want to play when it is convenient

for their humans. But it is important to remember that they

don’t just want to play with toys, they want to play with YOU.

So it is vital to set aside time during your daily routine for play

sessions, or “play therapy.” For a lot of cats who play

inappropriately, turning their predatory drive on humans or

other animals in the home, the underlying problem is boredom

and excess energy. Provide a good workout at least twice a

day, and make sure to frequently provide your cat with new

objects to investigate, like paper bags or cardboard boxes.

Refer to the parts of your packet on cat home life for more on

how to play, what to play with, and environment enrichment.

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When to Consider A Playmate! If you are playing with your cat as much as possible and have made your cat’s territory

as large and enriched as possible, and she still seems to be bored and restless, consider

adopting another cat as a playmate. This is an especially good choice if your cat is still

young. If you do, choose one that is about the same age or younger and is as active and

playful as your current cat.

If you DO decide to get another furry feline to become a part of your family, make sure

you are prepared for the transition by doubling up on all the supplies listed on the first

page of your packet. Professionals recommend having one litterbox per cat, PLUS one to

avoid any development of litterbox issues, inappropriate urination, or territory disputes.

Also, please see the handout (Cat-To-Cat Introductions) to ensure that your cats have a

stress-free and lasting connection!

Resident Cat to Cat Introductions

Kitten-to-kitten introductions are usually easy and can be completed in a day or two unless one of the kittens is very shy. Successful kitten-to-adult introductions often take longer, and the older the cat, the longer it may take. Introducing adult cats to each other can be challenging so the key to success is TIME and PATIENCE. The following guidelines are designed to help you accomplish your goal with minimal stress for you as well as for the cats. Step 1: Divide and Conquer! Many cats are not happy with change – especially to their environment. The resident cat may be stressed by the arrival of a stranger and the newcomer may be unsettled by the loss of his familiar routines and surroundings, even if those surroundings have been the animal shelter. To avoid reinforcement of the cats’ anxieties, everyone involved in the introduction should try to stay as calm as possible during the process.

Designate one room, preferably a small one, as temporary quarters for your new cat (the “safe haven”). Set up the room before he comes home, then take him into the room while he is still in his carrier, unobserved by the resident cat, and close the door.

Block the space under the door with a rolled up towel for the first day or two. Then remove the towel. The cats may start to sniff each other under the door. This may occur more frequently at night.

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Visit the newcomer often, with the door closed. Give him as much attention as he wants, but don’t force your attentions on him. If he is shy or nervous, just sitting in the room with him and talking softly may ease his anxieties. Let him have access to a hiding place, such as a closet, a box, or his carrier.

When the new cat seems comfortable with you and his environment and is eating well, start feeding the cats on either side of the closed door. If there is more than one person in the household, give treats to the cats simultaneously while they are near each other but separated by the door.

Try switching dishes, bedding, and toys to get the cats used to each other’s scents. If either cat seems upset by this experiment, stop it.

Step 2: Supervised Introductions

The next step is to open the door a tiny crack while you observe the cats’ interactions. A little hissing can be expected, but if there is deep growling, yowling, bristling or swatting, close the door. Wait a while and repeat the crack-in-the-door test until the cats remain calm.

Finally, start leaving the door open for about 10 minutes at a time and let the new cat explore the rest of the house. The resident cat may want to investigate the new cat’s room. Keep an eye on them and if either cat is hostile and aggressive, go back to the previous step.

After the cats have free run of your living quarters, be sure to have enough litter boxes. Cat behaviorists recommend one box per cat, plus one. Be sure to keep the boxes well scooped out and clean.

Don’t neglect your resident cat during this process. Give her plenty of attention and reassurance. If she is seriously stressed, her hostility and aggression may be displaced to you. If that should happen, don’t be discouraged or feel guilty. Continue to be supportive, and as her stress level falls, the displaced aggression will be abated and your original relationship will be restored.

Set aside time to give treats and play with both cats at the same time so they will learn that being together has positive rewards. By the same token you can reward them with treats and praise when they seem to be getting along. Don’t punish them or shout at them when they misbehave; this will only reinforce their anxieties. Remember, cats learn by positive reinforcement, or rewards. Punishment simply doesn’t work and will stress your cats further – making introductions a bad experience and peaceful cohabitation VERY unlikely.

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Cats generally prefer to keep some distance between them. Nonphysical signs of aggression such as hissing and growling are ways of keeping this distance as well as defining territorial limits. Cats also communicate to each other by subtler means that are imperceptible to humans. Even the best of cat friends get into quarrels occasionally, and it is best not to interfere unless in the rare event a fight turns serious and blood is drawn. (Incidentally, if you ever need to break up a cat fight, you can clap your hands, drop a book on the floor, toss a towel or blanket over the cats, drop a pillow between them, or spray them with water. NEVER USE YOUR HANDS TO SEPARATE FIGHTING CATS. Cats bites can result in very serious infections.)

It could take several months or more for their disputes over territory to diminish. Don’t be disappointed if they fail to become closely bonded buddies. Peaceful co-existence may be the best you can hope for. On the other hand, you could be in for a very pleasant surprise!

Cat-to-Dog Introductions Before embarking on the journey of cross-species integrating, it is very important that you expect to give adequate time for your new dog & kitty to co-exist – what’s a few weeks of training for a lifetime of friendship?! Dogs will look at cats one of three ways: Playmate, Prey, or Benign. Regardless of previous behavior around other animals, expect mediation until both animals are comfortable and a few rough days where one or both animals find each other a bit stressful.

The Introduction Process – ensuring a successful meeting:

Separate the animals • Across a few days, rotate which animal has freedom and which is confined to allow each animal plenty of time to investigate the other one’s scent. • Confine the dog off and on to allow the cat time to roam free and investigate. • When no one is home, the dog and cat MUST be physically separated. • Once the dog is calm (or at least not obsessed with the cat) and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally, you can proceed.

Make leashed introductions • Allow both animals to be in the same room at the same time, but keep the dog securely leashed and reward his attention on YOU when he turns from the cat. • Continue with this type of introduction until the dog is calm and ignores the cat. • If there is any fear or aggression displayed on either animal’s part continue to keep them separated. • Continue indefinitely until both the dog and cat seem happy and relaxed around each other. • When no one is home, the dog and cat MUST be physically separated.

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Allow unsupervised interactions • Unsupervised time together can occur after the cat and dog have been supervised around each other for a significant period of time (a month or so) and you see that they are comfortable in each other’s presence. Most importantly, always make sure your cat has an escape route as this will keep him “in control” when he begins to get uncomfortable. Never force them to be nearer to one another – allow this to happen naturally.

Warning Signs •If the dog remains fixated, completely ignores you or lunges suddenly as soon as the cat moves, this is probably a dangerous match. •If it is your cat who is growling, hissing or swatting, give the cat a break and try again on

another day. If the cat stops eating, drinking, using the litter box or visiting with family

members, she is not happy. You might want to consider finding a better match or contacting a

professional animal behaviorist for advice.

Litterbox Training 101

Most cats & kittens immediately take to the litterbox and “train” themselves! However, if you are not one of those lucky few, not to worry – Litterbox Training is simple and effective. Whether you are litterbox training a kitten or an adult cat, the procedure is the same. Regardless of your cat’s history, pretend you are introducing the litterbox for the very first time. The two most important aspects of litterbox training are: 1. Ensure the litterbox is EASILY accessible to your cat. If you have a larger home or

apartment, consider investing in two boxes to ensure it is there when your cat needs it! 2. Make sure the litter is cleaned DAILY and fully changed at least twice per week.

Cleanliness is a Cat Necessity Your cat does not simply need a litterbox - she needs a clean box with fresh litter. The cat will be inhibited from using the box if it smells of another cat so make sure to purchase a brand new box. The litterbox must be cleaned daily and fully changed at least twice a week. Make sure that the litterbox is in an appropriate place. Cats do not like to soil the area close to their sleeping or eating areas, so try to locate the box some distance away. Some additional factor may be inhibiting the cat from using the litterbox, so put down an extra one in a different location. If there is more than one cat in the house, have several litter boxes available. Until the cat is fully housetrained, she should not be allowed to have free run of the house. When you leave the house for any length of time, the cat should be confined to a single room, such as a kitchen, bathroom, or utility room. The cat should be provided with water and a warm place to sleep at one end of the room and a freshly cleaned litterbox at the other end.

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A variety of other factors might also cause the breakdown of housetraining. There may be social changes: a new cat in the neighborhood or children home on vacation. Cats often react to any type of stress by suddenly urinating or defecating outside the litterbox.

Please Note: Urinary tract problems also cause cats to urinate in places other than the litter box. Any sudden change in elimination habits should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Praise – To Do or Not To Do Praising your cat immediately after using their litterbox DOES work for some cats in reinforcing this desired behavior. In order to praise the cat for eliminating in her box, you must be there at the time your cat eliminates. To help you predict when your cat will need to eliminate, feed her at regular times. If the cat’s edible input is provided on a regular schedule, the output will follow likewise. A light play session after meals will likely lead your cat to answer nature’s call! Call her to her litterbox from a variety of places around the house, particularly areas where she has soiled in the past if that has occurred. When the cat gets to the box, scratch the litter to get her interested. Similarly, if the kitty takes a long nap she’ll likely wake up and need to eliminate. Encourage kitty to hop into the box, and praise her when she does so. Even if she does not eliminate, she is learning that the box is a great CLEAN place to be. If the cat does eliminate, praise her in a gentle voice and treat her if she is food motivated!

Keeping Your Cat Indoors

For cats, the great outdoors are anything but great. Whether they live in the city, in the suburbs, or in the country, outdoor cats face a multitude of dangers. They risk getting hit by a car, feline leukemia, attacks by dogs, poisoned food, pesticides, cat fights, fleas, ticks, worms, abscesses, getting lost, getting stolen, traps, human cruelty, wild animal attacks, rainy weather. The average life span of an outdoor cat is a few years, whereas an indoor-only cat can live 15 to 20 years. Indoor cats are usually healthier, too, which saves on veterinary bills. Although many cats enjoy being outside, going outside is not a requirement for feline happiness. Here are some tips for making the great indoors interesting & feline-friendly: Start young - Kittens who are kept indoors usually show no desire to venture outside when they grow up. Fence me in - Provide a screened porch or other safe way for your cat to experience the outdoors. Consider building or purchasing a "catio" or similar enclosure. Such an enclosure can allow your cat to experience all the pleasures of the great outdoors without the risks.

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Environmental Enrichment -Install a perch indoors near a sunny window. Another option is an enclosure that sits in a window frame (much like an air conditioning unit) and provides a secure space in which your kitty can "hang out." Buy a ready-made cat tree (or a "kitty condo"), or make your own. A cat tree may stretch from floor to ceiling or be shorter. It provides great climbing opportunities and, in multi-cat households, creates more play and rest areas by taking advantage of vertical space. If you can, locate the cat tree next to a window so your cat can watch the action outdoors. Play time - Play with your cat each day. Try different types of toys that allow your cat to stalk, chase, pounce, and kick. Leave out "toys" such as paper bags or cardboard boxes. Switch toys from time to time so that they seem "new" and more interesting to your cat. Bring the outdoors in - Plant cat grass (available from pet supply stores) in indoor pots so your feline can graze.

A Note on Declawing Cats use their claws to exercise, play, stretch, climb, hunt and mark their territory. Although your cat might use your hands or furniture for these activities, declawing is NOT the answer. Declawing is a painful and difficult operation. It is the same as removing the first joint on all your fingers. Not only does this impair the cat’s balance and causes weakness from muscular disuse, declawed cats are defenseless against potential threats. You may know that your indoor cat will never have to climb a tree in order to escape from the neighbor’s Chihuahua, but your cat doesn’t know it. Declawing makes a cat feel insecure and defenseless. There are alternatives to declawing; exercise and play with your cat regularly, give him a scratching post and teach him to use it, or trim your cat’s nails on a regular basis. Declawing is a painful and inhumane practice; there are much better ways to get the behaviors you’d like. If you are having trouble with scratching, please feel free to call us at the shelter for a plan of action!

Reading Your Cat’s Body Language

The most important parts of the cat’s body to focus on when “reading” your cat are the eyes and tail. The faster and harder the tail is swishing, the more stimulated the cat is. This could be positive or negative – they are excited and about to pounce on their prey, or they are irritated from being pet too long and are about to tell you in a more direct way (with their teeth). The eyes dilate not only to let in more light in darker areas or times, but as they get more excited. You will often see a cat’s eyes fully dilated when they are about to pounce on their prey. At the same time, the eyes also dilate when they are extremely scared. If you notice a cat’s tail moving or eyes dilated dramatically, they are telling you they are worked up in some way, and it is best to approach carefully.

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SF/ACC-Approved Informational Resources

Cat Behavior & Training ASPCA - www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist SF/SPCA – https://www.sfspca.org/behavior-training/cat-behavior-resources American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior – www.avsabonline.org Dr. Sophia Yin - http://drsophiayin.com/resources/cat_behavior Sacramento SPCA - http://www.sspca.org/pet-carebehavior/behaviorresourcelibrary/ Jackson Galaxy – www.jacksongalaxy.com In-Home Cat Behavior Help Feline Minds – www.felineminds.com Go, Cat, Go Behavior Counseling – www.gocatgosf.com Books Anitra Frazier The Natural Cat Jackson Galaxy Cat Daddy: What the World’s Most Incorrigible Cat Taught Me…

Catification: Desgining a Happy & Stylish Home for Your Cat Pam Johnson-Bennett Cat vs. Cat: Keeping the Peace When You Have More Than One Cat Think Like A Cat: How to Raise a Well-Adjusted Cat- Not a Sour… ASPCA ASPCA Complete Guide to Cats John Bradshaw CatSense: How the New Feline Science Can Make You a Better

Friend… Arden Moore The Cat Behavior Answer Book Bruce Fogle Complete Cat Care Manual