Complete Technical Information for Dyeing

28
Textile Effects NOVACRON ® Exhaust dyeing Textile Competence: Effects FN r eactive dyes

description

Dyeing Information of Knit Garments

Transcript of Complete Technical Information for Dyeing

Page 1: Complete Technical Information for Dyeing

Textile Effects

NOVACRON®

Exhaust dyeing

Textile Competence: Effects

FN r eactive dyes

Page 2: Complete Technical Information for Dyeing

NOVACRON® FN

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Contents

Page

NOVACRON FN ......................................................................................................................................... 3

General ...................................................................................................................................................... 4

Dyeing methods for 100% CEL

Overview/yarn and piecegoods ............................................................................................................. 5

Dyeing method for pale to medium shades........................................................................................... 6

Dyeing method for deep shades............................................................................................................ 6

Salt and alkali recommendations at different liquor ratio....................................................................... 7

Dyeing method with caustic soda .......................................................................................................... 9

Washing off yarn and piecegoods ........................................................................................................ 10

Dyeing methods for blends

Polyester/cellulose blends ................................................................................................................... 11

Polyamide/cellulose blends ................................................................................................................. 12

Dyeing auxiliaries

Penetrating/de-aerating/defoaming, Special products......................................................................... 13

Special products cont., Soaping, Cationic aftertreatment ................................................................... 14

Pretreatment for CO and its blends, including elastane

Discontinuous peroxide bleach / SMART PREP ................................................................................. 15

Discontinuous acid cracking................................................................................................................ 15

Discontinuous alkaline cracking .......................................................................................................... 15

Pretreatment products ........................................................................................................................... 16

Explanatory notes

Patterns, OEKO-Tex 100, HT cross-dyeing PES/CEL ........................................................................ 17

Post-bleaching, Post-mercerizing........................................................................................................ 18

Dischargeability, Solubility, Final exhaustion, Fixation ........................................................................ 19

Washing-off properties, Coverage of dead cotton, Coverage of barry viscose................................... 20

Influence of liquor ratio, Influence of salt addition ............................................................................... 20

Partial and radical stripping of dyeings ................................................................................................ 21

Fastness properties ............................................................................................................................. 22

Adverse influences during dyeing........................................................................................................ 23

Adverse influences of cationic aftertreatment ..................................................................................... 24

Adverse influences during drying................................................................................................... 24–25

Adverse influences during finishing ..................................................................................................... 26

Handling reactive dyes........................................................................................................................... 27

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NOVACRON® FN

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NOVACRON® FN

The NOVACRON FN dyes are innovative bi-hetero reactive dyes for warm exhaust dyeing.

Highly compatible range for a wide shade spectrum and high fastness performance.

Excellent reproducibility and outstanding washing-off properties resulting in increased productivity.

Highlights of NOVACRON® FN ...and what they mean for the dyer

Highest fastness levels

- light fastness - perspiration light fastness (PLF) - oxidative bleach

- color retention to home laundering

Fulfills brand & retailer requirements - pale shades - sportswear articles - repeated washing with peroxide (M&S test) - High IQ Lasting Color

Compact range of brilliant dyes

- few elements - high brilliancy of each element

Wide shade gamut - low inventory, simple replenishment - covers a wide shade gamut

Outstanding reproducibility - similar affinity level - robust dyes - very good diffusion - reactive bonds stable in both alkaline and acid condition

Improved right-first-time - excellent compatibility - little sensitivity to varying dyeing parameters - good leveling, uniform fabric appearance - high bulk to bulk reproducibility

Short and simple dyeing process - isotherm process at warm temperature - high solubility in presence of salt and alkali - easy washing off (see below)

Water & energy savings - energy savings - suitable for short liquor ratio dyeing - water savings

Excellent washing off

- high fixation rate - medium affinity level - low re-deposition on fabric

Ecology - little dyestuff to be washed off - hydrolyzed dyestuff easy to remove - good color blocking

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NOVACRON® FN

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General

Storing the dyes

Powder dyes are stable to storage for more than two years, liquid dyes for more than 1 year in closed containers at 20–30°C/68–86°F.

Pretreatment

The goods should have a neutral pH and high absorbency. Impurities, sizes and lubricants must be carefully removed. Any peroxide residues from bleaching must be removed or destroyed in order to prevent losses of yield and/or unlevelness (especially important with pale shades). If peroxide killers are used, cold rinsing is recommended before dyeing. The pH must be adjusted to 6 at the beginning of dyeing.

Dissolving powder dyes

The dyes are best dissolved by: Strewing into 10 times their weight of hot water (not higher than 80°C/176°F) and high speed stirring or pasting with cold water and pouring on hot water.

Notes

It is advisable to use soft or softened water. To avoid loss of yield through hydrolysis, the pH of the water should be slightly acid to neutral.

Notes on dyeing

If the goods are pretreated in an alkaline medium or in areas where process water with a pH above 7 is used, an addition of acetic acid at the start of dyeing is recommended.

The pH should be about 6 before the dyes are added.

Salt: Either common salt or Glauber’s salt anhydrous can be used. Glauber’s salt can occasionally have a marked acid reaction. If this occurs, the amount of fixing alkali has to be increased accordingly. Sea salt and impure common salt contain soluble alkaline earth ions. If Glauber’s salt cryst. (Na2SO4.10 H2O) is used, the amount of salt must be doubled.

To prevent precipitation � see: Use of dyeing auxiliaries.

Alkali: Soda ash or soda ash and caustic soda or caustic soda are recommended, depending on method. With soda ash, and more particularly with mixed alkali, care must be taken with industrial grades that may contain a certain amount of sodium bicarbonate. This reduces the pH during the fixation phase.

Notes on dyes

Most of the Golden Yellow can show photochomy.

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NOVACRON® FN

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Dyeing methods for 100% CEL

Overview/yarn and piecegoods

60°C/140°F method Soda ash

80/60°C/176/140°F method

For merc. CO or CV and fabrics difficult to penetrate

- if soda ash is preferred for fixation

- for unfavorable conditions as far as alkali additions are concerned (no dispensing equipment available)

Salt addition: in portions (e.g. 1/10, 2/10, 7/10)

Alkali addition: in portions (e.g. 1/3, 2/3)

Modification The following method is an alternative to that described above (dye before salt) and can save time:

salt or brine is added at the beginning, the dissolved dye is added subsequently over 10–20 min

60°C/140°F method Soda ash + caustic soda

- if mixed alkali is preferred for fixation

- smaller addition volume for small addition tanks

- lower impact of the liquor ratio

Salt addition: in portions (e.g. 1/10, 2/10, 7/10)

Alkali addition: 1. add: soda ash, 2. add slowly: caustic soda, well diluted

Modification The following method is an alternative to that described above (dye before salt) and can save time:

salt or brine is added at the beginning, the dissolved dye is added subsequently over 10–20 min

60°C/140°F method ALBATEX

® SA-200

- if liquid alkali is preferred for fixation

- smaller addition volume for small addition tanks

- lower impact of the liquor ratio

Salt addition: in portions (e.g. 1/10, 2/10, 7/10)

Alkali addition: over 30-40 min at 70% progression

Modification The following method is an alternative to that described above (dye before salt) and can save time:

salt or brine is added at the beginning, the dissolved dye is added subsequently over 10–20 min

60°C/140°F dispensing method caustic soda

- for fully automated machinery with dispensing equipment

Salt or brine is added at the beginning

Dye solution is dispensed linearly over 10–20 min

Alkali is added over 45 min at 70% progression

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NOVACRON® FN

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Dyeing methods for 100% CEL

Yarn and piecegoods

60°C/140°F method for pale to medium shades

90

80

70

60

50

40

30

194

86

104

122

140

158

176

Aux.

Dyes

Salt

°C °F

Soda ash

or Soda ash / NaOH

or ALBATEX® SA-200

dispensed or in portions

10' 20' 15-30' 30' 30-40'

60°C/140°F method for deep shades

90

80

70

60

50

40

30

194

86

104

122

140

158

176

Aux.

Salt

Dyes

°C °F

Soda ash

or Soda ash / NaOH

or ALBATEX® SA-200

dispensed or in portions

10' 20' 15-30' 30' 30-40'

Notes

- *On CV and merc. CO use the 80/60°C, 176/140°F method with soda ash only.

- = dispensed or in portions.

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Dyeing methods for 100% CEL

Salt and alkali recommendations at different liquor ratio

Soda ash method

Liquor ratio below 6:1 (Ultra Short Liquor Ratio)

NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5

Auxiliaries see pages 13–14

Salt g/l 20 30 40 50 60 70 80

Soda ash % 14 16 18 20 20 20 20

Liquor ratio below 8:1

NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5

Auxiliaries see pages 13–14

Salt g/l 20 30 40 50 60 70 80

Soda ash g/l 10 12 14 16 18 20 20

Liquor ratio at and above 8:1

NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5

Auxiliaries see pages 13–14

Salt g/l 30 40 50 60 80 90 100

Soda ash g/l 8 10 12 14 16 18 18

Mixed alkali method

Liquor ratio below 6:1 (Ultra Short Liquor Ratio)

NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5

Auxiliaries see pages 13–14

Salt g/l 20 30 40 50 60 70 80

Soda ash % 10 10 5 5 5 5 5

NaOH % 0.5 1 2 2.5 3 3.5 4

Liquor ratio below 8:1

NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5

Auxiliaries see pages 13–14

Salt g/l 20 30 40 50 60 70 80

Soda ash g/l 10 5 5 5 5 5 5

NaOH ml/l – 0.75 1.25 1.5 2 2.5 3

Liquor ratio at and above 8:1

NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5

Auxiliaries see pages 13–14

Salt g/l 30 40 50 60 80 90 100

Soda ash g/l 8 5 5 5 5 5 5

NaOH ml/l – 0.5 1 1.25 1.5 2 2.5

NaOH 36°Bé/66°Tw

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ALBATEX® SA-200 method

Liquor ratio below 6:1 (Ultra Short Liquor Ratio)

NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5

Auxiliaries see pages 13–14

Salt g/l 20 30 40 50 60 70 80

ALBATEX® SA-200 % 2.5 2.75 3 3.5 4.5 5.5 6.5

Liquor ratio below 8:1

NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5

Auxiliaries see pages 13–14

Salt g/l 20 30 40 50 60 70 80

ALBATEX® SA-200 g/l 2.5 2.75 3 3.5 4.5 5.5 6.5

Liquor ratio at and above 8:1

NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5

Auxiliaries see pages 13–14

Salt g/l 30 40 50 60 80 90 100

ALBATEX® SA-200 g/l 2.5 2.75 3 3.5 4.5 5.5 6.5

Notes

- For CV and CO merc. the amount of salt can be reduced by 20–30%.

- Quality of salt; see page 4.

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NOVACRON® FN

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Dyeing methods for 100% CEL

Yarn and piecegoods

60°C/140°F caustic soda dispensing method

90

80

70

60

50

40

30

194

86

104

122

140

158

176

Aux.

Salt

Dyes

°C °F

NaOH

dispensed or in portions

10' 20' 15-30' 45' 30-45'

Salt and alkali recommendations/liquor ratio below 8:1

NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5–1 1–2 2–3 3–4 4–5 above 5

Auxiliaries see pages 13–14

Salt g/l 20–30 30–40 40–50 50–60 60–70 70–80 80

NaOH ml/l 2.7–3.3 3.3 3.3–3.8 3.8–4.4 4.4–5 5–5.5 5.5

Salt and alkali recommendations/liquor ratio at and above 8:1

NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5–1 1–2 2–3 3–4 4–5 above 5

Auxiliaries see pages 13–14

Salt g/l 30–40 40–50 50–60 60–80 80–90 90–100 100

NaOH ml/l 1.9–2.3 2.3 2.3–2.7 2.7–3 3–3.4 3.4–3.8 3.8

NaOH 36°Bé/66°Tw

Notes

- The mixed alkali method is our main recommendation for full shades with Navy FN-BN.

- Quality of salt; see page 4.

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Washing off yarn and piecegoods – 100% CEL

Rinse for 10 min at 50°C/122°F One rinse is sufficient if liquor ratio is 10:1 If liquor ratio is below 10:1, overflow or intermittent rinse

Neutralize for 10 min at 50°C/122°F With acetic acid (pH = 5.5 to 6)

Soap for 10 min at 90°C/194°F The addition of a soaping agent is advisable. See dyeing auxiliaries/soaping

Soap for 10 min at 90°C/194°F A second soaping operation is recommended for very deep shades if necessary

Rinse for 10 min at 50°C/122°F

Rinse for 10 min cold

Soften as usual or aftertreat See dyeing auxiliaries/aftertreatment

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Dyeing method for polyester/cellulose blends

Yarn and piecegoods

A two-bath process using TERASIL® WW/W-EL dyes and NOVACRON FN is recommended for high

wash fastness (at 60°C/140°F) requirements.

Dye the polyester component first

HT dyeing with TERASIL WW/W-EL dyes

Dye the cellulose component…

by one of the NOVACRON methods described.

Wash off as described.

Two-bath process / FN-FAST

• Highest wash fastness performance ever achieved with disperse/reactive dyes

• For articles where the wash fastness is the main issue

• Use of state-of-the-art disperse dyes TERASIL WW/W-EL in conjunction with state-of-the-art reactive dyes NOVACRON FN

• More process time, water and energy consumption needed due to the two-bath technique

• No intermediate reduction clearing necessary

30

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86

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284

0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380

A

°F°C

B C D

min

A B C TERASIL WW/W-EL dyes NOVACRON FN dyes common salt

3–4 g/l ALBATEX®

AB-45 or D 2 g/l ammonium sulfate + formic acid soda ash 0.5 g/l ALBAFLOW

® JET caustic soda

1–2 g/l ALBATEX®

AR (if necessary) 1 g/l UNIVADINE

® DPL

B

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Dyeing method for polyamide/cellulose blends

Yarn and piecegoods

Reactive dyes are frequently used in conjunction with LANASET® dyes for dyeing polyamide/cellulose

blends, allowing maximum wet fastness properties to be achieved.

The main challenge, besides fulfilling the demands for high fastness, lies in achieving the same shade on both fibers, in other words a solid dyeing.

These requirements can be achieved by applying a two-bath procedure with NOVACRON FN dyes for the CEL portion and LANASET dyes for the polyamide portion.

Dye the cellulosic component first

Dye the cellulosic component by one of the NOVACRON methods described.

Washing off NOVACRON FN

Good reservation of the polyamide portion during dyeing of the cellulose portion guarantees excellent reproducibility and easy shade matching. NOVACRON FN dyes fulfill these requirements.

For the best results we recommend maintaining a weakly alkaline pH throughout washing off and performing the final neutralization of residual alkali after the wash off.

(For special effects, like white reservation of polyamide, ERIONAL RN can be used as a blocking agent).

Washing-off procedure for NOVACRON FN dyes on CEL/PA blends:

1. rinse for 10 min at 50°C/122°F 2. rinse for 10 min at 50°C/122°F 3. soap for 15 min at 90°C/194°F 4. rinse for 10 min at 50°C/122°F 5. neutralize with 0.5 ml/l acetic acid 80% for 10 min at 50°C/122°F

Dye the polyamide component…

with LANASET dyes (see pattern card or pocket card).

Rinse and neutralize if necessary.

For more details on CEL/PA blends specific pamphlets are available.

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Dyeing auxiliaries

Penetrating/de–aerating/defoaming

Products Effects Benefits

0.1–0.5 g/l

ALBAFLOW FFC-01 slightly anionic

penetration accelerant

- silicone containing product with de-aerating effect and durable antifoaming action - very stable to high alkali and electrolyte concentrations ideal for machines with short liquor or air stream technology

0.3–0.5 g/l

ALBAFLOW SF PLUS

nonionic

penetration accelerant

- Mineral-oil-free product with reinforced foam control properties

- APEO- and solvent free. Contains no silicon oil, no silicate

- good stability to electrolytes and shear

0.3–1 g/l

ALBAFLOW CIR anionic

penetration accelerant

- APEO- and solvent free de-aerating agent with wetting properties and durable antifoam properties - instant penetration of goods, especially recommended for circulating liquor dyeing machines - stable in acid and alkaline media - promotes constant liquor flow, hence inside-outside levelness and reduced risk of channeling

0.1–0.5 g/l

ALBAFLOW JET anionic

penetration accelerant

- APEO- and solvent free product with durable antifoaming action - very stable to high alkali and electrolyte concentrations - specially recommended for jet and overflow machines with short liquor or air stream technology alternative

Special products

Products Effects Benefits

1–3 g/l

LYOPRINT RG anionic

reduction protectant

- protects reactive dyes against reduction during dyeing

0.5–2 g/l

ALBATEX DBC anionic

dispersing agent Ca inactivation

- dyebath conditioner: prevents precipitation of Ca, Mg in the water or on the textile - promotes levelness of the dyeing and improves the appearance of the dyed goods - binds metal ions (Fe, Cu) in the water

0.5–2 g/l

ALBATEX CO anionic

protective colloid Ca inactivation

- avoids precipitation of Ca, Mg in the water or on the textile - promotes levelness of the dyeing and improves the appearance of the dyed goods - keeps impurities from unpretreated cotton in stable dispersion

0.5–3 g/l

ALBATEX DS anionic

polymeric dispersant and protective colloid

- dyebath conditioner avoids precipitation of Ca, Mg in the water or on the textile - promotes the levelness of the dyeing and improves the appearance of the dyed goods - binds heavy metal ions in the water

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Special products (cont.)

Products Effects Benefits

0.5–2 g/l

ALBAFLUID C anionic/nonionic

lubricant - reduces creasing in piece dyeing - markedly reduces textile-to-textile friction - prevents cracks and abrasion marks - no adverse effect on the stability of the dyebath - no retarding effect

0.5–2 g/l

ALBAFLUID U anionic/nonionic

lubricant - for very sensitive fabrics - prevents crack marks and creases - no adverse effect on the stability of the dyebath - no retarding effect - excellent for heavy goods

0.5–2 g/l

ALBAFLUID CD anionic/nonionic

lubricant - suitable for dosing systems - reduces the friction of fabric against fabric and fabrics against machine parts by virtue of its structural viscosity - assists formation of a protective water layer in zones of high shear forces, creating an “aqua planning” effect - no adverse effect on the color yield - can be rinsed out of the fabric completely

Soaping

Products Effects Benefits

0.5–2 g/l

ERIOPON R LIQ anionic

washing agent

- speeds up release and outward diffusion of dye hydrolysates, even in hard water - prevents renewed uptake of dye hydrolysates - inactivates water hardness ions and ensures maximum fastness properties - low foaming

Note for all dyeing auxiliaries Amount required depends on specific conditions, e.g. type of fabric, quality of process water, type of machinery.

Aftertreatment with ALBAFIX ECO

Products Effects Benefits

1–3%

ALBAFIX ECO cationic

wet fastness improver

- formaldehyde-free - zinc-free - prevents migration after dyeing - protects dye/fiber bond of reactive dyes against acid hydrolysis and thermocracking - allows good wash fastness up to 50°C/122°F - no adverse effect on handle

Goods dyed to medium and deep shades should be aftertreated following washing off

Method: aftertreatment with ALBAFIX ECO at 40°C/104°F for 20–30 min. pH 6–7 adjusted with acetic acid. The goods are then hydroextracted and dried without rinsing.

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Pretreatment for CO and its blends, including elastane

Discontinuous peroxide bleach / SMART PREP:

0.5–1.5 ml/l CLARITE® GS

1.0–2.0 ml/l INVADINE® DA or ULTRAVON

® EL

1.0–2.5 g/l NaOH 100% 2.0–10 ml/l H2O2 35% or 2.5–4.0 ml/l CLARITE

® COM

1.0–2.5 g/l NaOH 100% 2.0–10 ml/l H2O2 35%

Liquor ratio: 4:1–20:1

Temperature: 90–98°C (ULTRA BLEACH up to 115°C)

Reaction time: 20–60 min (ULTRA BLEACH up to 20 min)

Cooling/rinsing combined or separate hot rinse; drain.

Neutralizing/final clearing with INVATEX® AC at 40–60°C for 5–10 min.

Without draining, remove peroxide with INVAZYM® CAT at 40–60°C for 5–10 min; dyeing can be

performed in the same bath.

For goods with high alkaline earth and heavy metal ion contents, it is advisable to carry out an acid cracking process before bleaching to enhance effects and process safety.

Discontinuous acid cracking

0.5–2.0 ml/l INVATEX® SA

1.0–2.0 ml/l INVADINE® DA or ULTRAVON

® EL

Liquor ratio: 4:1–20:1/temperature: 30–60°C

Reaction time: 20–30 min/hot rinse; continue with bleaching

For dark shades, which do not require bleaching, it is advisable to carry out an alkaline cracking process to remove greases, waxes, oils and other kinds of impurities.

Discontinuous alkaline cracking

1.0–4.0 g/l NaOH 100% or soda ash 0.5–1.0 ml/l INVATEX

® SA

1.0–2.0 ml/l INVADINE® DA or ULTRAVON

® EL

Liquor ratio: 4:1–20:1/temperature: 90–98°C

Reaction time: 20–40 min/hot rinse

Neutralizing/final clearing with INVATEX® AC at 40–60°C for 5–10 min

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Pretreatment products

CLARITE® GS

bleach-processor

Processor for batchwise, discontinuous systems.

Crystallization and precipitation-inhibiting action in heavily soiled

bleaching systems such as one-stage rapid bleaching, and in extremely

short-liquor-ratio machines. Contains no surfactant; anionic.

CLARITE® COM

bleach-processor

Combination product for batch-wise bleaching with peroxide. Regulates

the formation of active oxygen.

No other additions to the bleach bath required than hydrogen peroxide

and alkali. Good detergency and emulsifying properties.

Anionic/nonionic.

INVADINE® DA

surfactant

Low foaming wetting agent and detergent for discontinuous pretreatment

and continuous immersion processes. Good detergency/emulsifying

properties and good hydrophilicity of the goods. Very effective also on

synthetics and Elastane. APEO-free, anionic/nonionic.

ULTRAVON® EL

surfactant

Dissolves grease and oil readily. High wetting/detergent/dispersing

power reinforced by a crystallization-retarding complexing action. Low-

foaming, stable at high alkali concentrations (up to 300 g/l caustic soda

100%).

Suitable for enzymatic desizing. Stain-removing action at high

concentrations. APEO-free, anionic.

INVATEX® AC

cracking agent

Special cracking agent to optimize the washing process, mainly applied

after bleaching or mercerizing. Core neutralization of the cellulose fiber

and extremely clean fabrics through thorough removal of traces of

impurities at the final rinsing stage. High complexing/dispersing power

and threshold effect. Contains no phosphorous or surfactant, anionic.

INVATEX® SA

cracking agent

Versatile sequestrant mixture, especially for acid and alkaline cracking.

Marked retardation of crystallization, high capacity to inactivate heavy

metal ions in highly alkaline media. Stable to oxidation and effective at

high alkali concentrations (>300 g/l caustic soda 100%).

Prevents precipitation in causticizing, mercerizing and caustic soda

recuperation baths. Contains no surfactant, anionic.

INVAZYME® CAT

enzyme

Stabilized, liquid catalase. The catalase enzyme removes the hydrogen

peroxide specifically by splitting it into oxygen and water. Improves

shade reproducibility without loss of color yield with dyes that are

sensitive to oxidation processes. Outstanding biodegradability.

Very broad application spectrum: pH 3–10 and temperature up to 65°C.

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Explanatory notes

Patterns

The patterns illustrated were dyed to four depths on bleached cotton tricot. The amounts of dye are given for the 60°C/140°F method/soda ash at liquor ratio 10:1.

Oeko-Tex 100

The Oeko-Tex 100 tests are performed on ready-to-wear goods. Dye selection is only one consideration. Type of fabric, procedures and finishing agents are equally important. The pattern card covers dye selection only. Reference Oeko-Tex Standard 100, edition 1/2007

Assessment Provided the dyeing is performed according to our recommendations, dyes marked with � can attain the standard

HT cross-dyeing PES/CEL

Method Reverse dyeing method for PES/CEL blends. Cross-dyeing with 2 g/l monosodium phosphate, pH 5.5 with acetic acid, 60 min at 130°C/266°F

Substrate CO cretonne, bleached

Dye conc. approx. 2/3 SD and navy light/black light

Assessment

Suitability Versus untreated fabric

very good ≥ 90% yield, no shade change

good 80–90% yield, no shade change

moderate 70–80% yield, shade change

— not suitable < 70% yield, shade change

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Explanatory notes

Post-bleaching

A remarkable increase in productivity is achieved if the goods are dyed in the gray state and post-bleaching is integrated into the washing-off process.

Method Stability to post-bleaching

Standard Washing off as recommended

Comparison The soaping bath is replaced by a post-bleaching process with

OKM= g/l soda ash

TKR= ml/l peroxide 35% w/w X g/l stabilizer cold to 95°C/203°F at 2°C/min, 15 min at 95°C/203°F

Assessment

Suitability Versus untreated fabric

very good ≥ 95% yield, no shade change

good 90–95% yield, no shade change

moderate 85–90% yield, shade change

— not suitable < 85% yield, shade change

Note Dyes rated (very good) are also suitable for yarn dyeings to be bleached with peroxide after weaving/knitting

Test Peroxide bleach ISO 105/N02

Assessment (very good) = shade change 4–5/5, staining of CO: 4–5

Post-mercerizing

Test Huntsman TE internal test

Assessment

Suitability Shade change Staining of CO

very good none/trace 4–5/5

good slight/noticeable 4/4–5

moderate appreciable/high 3–4/4

— not suitable high < 3–4

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Explanatory notes

Dischargeability

Dischargeability is tested on woven material, bleached, mercerized, at 1/6, 1/3, 1/1 and 2/1 SD.

Neutral discharge Alkaline discharge

550 g SOLVITOSE C5 10%) 450 g SOLVITOSE C5 10%

250 g water 220 g water

150 g RONGALIT C (BASF) 150 g RONGALIT C

50 g glycerin 130 g potash powder

50 g glycerin

Dischargeability is assessed by the gray scale. The dischargeability limit specifies the standard depth at which gray-scale rating 4 is still attained.

Assessment

very good up to 2/1 SD

good up to 1/1 SD

moderate 1/3–1/1 SD

— not attained < 1/3 SD

Solubility

The amount of dye in grams which is soluble in 1 liter distilled water at 30°C/86°F and 60°C/140°F. Solubility at 60°C/140°F is also given under dyeing conditions with the appropriate salt and alkali additions.

Final exhaustion/fixation

This refers to dyeings on cotton tricot, non-mercerized, produced at about 2/3 SD and navy light/black light by the 60°C/140°F method using soda ash at liquor ratio 10:1 after 90 min dyeing.

Note

Exhaustion and fixation depend heavily on dye concentration, liquor ratio, method and substrate.

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Explanatory notes

Washing-off properties

Methods: 1SD and navy light/black light dyeings on bleached CO tricot are washed off using standard procedure described page 9. Wet fastness properties achieved Staining of CO, Washing C1S, water: limit - rating 4

Assessment

very good after standard washing-off procedure

good after standard washing-off procedure with a second soaping bath

Coverage of dead cotton

Coverage of immature and mature cotton is assessed as very good, good or moderate for the individual dyes.

Coverage of barry viscose

Coverage of viscose with varying affinity is assessed as very good, good or moderate for the individual dyes.

Influence of liquor ratio

The figures refer to 1% dyeings and 6% for black on bleached CO tricot dyed by the 60°C/140°F method using soda ash. The relative strength is assessed versus that at liquor ratio 10:1 (100).

Influence of salt addition

The figures refer to 2% dyeings and 6% for black on bleached CO tricot dyed by the 60°C/140°F method using soda ash. Relative strength is determined with less and more salt than the appropriate amount.

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Explanatory notes

Partial and radical stripping of dyeings

Recommended methods

Hydrosulfite alkaline A 5 g/l hydrosulfite conc. 15 ml/l caustic soda 36°Bé (66°Tw) 50°C/122°F raise over 15 min to 90°C/194°F and treat for a further 15 min

Chlorine B 3 g/l available chlorine pH 10–11 with caustic soda, treat for 60 min at 20–30°C/68–86°F, antichlor with sodium thiosulfate or sodium bisulfite

Hydrosulfite neutral D 5g/l hydrosulfite conc. 50°C/122°F, raise over 15 min to 90°C/194°F and treat for a further 15 min

Partial stripping % 30 g/l salt 8 ml/l caustic soda 36°Bé (66°Tw) heat rapidly to 95°C/203°F, treat for 10–45 min (depending on required shade reduction) cool, rinse and neutralize

Stripping methods can be combined. The order in which they are carried out is indicated by the position of the letters (AB/BA). The recommended stripping methods are indicated by the letters above

Most suitable stripping method almost fully stripped

Suitable stripping method markedly weakened

Partial stripping attainable stripping effect in %

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Explanatory notes

Fastness properties

Light fastness was tested at the given standard depths. Other fastness properties refer to dyeings at about 1/1 standard depth (SD), and navy light and black light. Light fastness is measured upwards from 1 to 8, other fastness properties from 1 to 5.

Fastness properties were tested and assessed in accordance with International Standard (IS) ISO 105, issued by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO).

All fastness tests were performed on cotton woven bleached and merc.

Key to abbreviations

Shade changes Bl = bluer Br = brighter

G = greener De = deeper

R = redder D = duller, flatter

Y = yellower W = weaker

Fastness tables Ch = shade change CO = staining of cotton

CV = staining of viscose WO = staining of wool

Light fastness, Xenon lamp

1/25–2/1 SD or black light/navy light Xenon lamp ISO 105/B02

Artificial light lamp

TL 84/Tungsten Shade under TL 84 and Tungsten lamps is compared with that in daylight and the change assessed

Washing

60°C/140°F, C1S 1x

60°C/140°F, C1S 5x

ISO 105/C06

Wash test with fresh wash solution, 5 times (without intermediate drying)

95°C/203°F, E1S 1x ISO 105/C06

Washing with peroxide, 95°C/203°F, E2S ISO 105/C06

Washing with chlorine, 70°C/158°F, D3S ISO 105/C06

Water ISO 105/E01

Sea water ISO 105/E02

Chlorinated water, 20 mg/l ISO 105/E03

Perspiration, alkaline ISO 105/E04

Perspiration, acid ISO 105/E04

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Explanatory notes

Adverse influences during dyeing

Reduction

Effect reducing substances transferred from the substrate into the dyebath, e.g. viscose or peroxide killer residues, may result in loss of yield and thus cause reproducibility problems

Prevention a mild oxidizing agent (→ see: use of dyeing auxiliaries) should be added

Assessment

not sensitive ≥ 95% yield, no shade change

slightly sensitive 90–95% yield, no shade change

moderately sensitive 85–90% yield, shade change

— highly sensitive < 85% yield, shade change

Cu/Fe ions in the dyebath

Effect Cu and Fe ions in the dyebath originating from the substrate or process water can cause shade changes

Prevention → see: use of dyeing auxiliaries

Test dyeings were produced in the presence of 1 mg/l Cu or 1 mg/l Fe and compared with dyeings without metal ions

Assessment

not sensitive no shade difference

slightly sensitive little shade difference

moderately sensitive moderate shade difference

— highly sensitive significant shade difference

Chlorine in process water

Effect chlorine, often present in municipal water, may cause loss of yield and/or shade changes

Prevention continuous dechlorination of the incoming water, or addition of a reducing agent, e.g. 0.1–0.5 g/l sodium thiosulfate

Test yield and shade change of dyeing performed in the presence of 5 mg/l Cl were assessed by comparison with dyeings produced without any chlorine

Assessment

Yield loss Shade change

not sensitive 0–5% none to trace

slightly sensitive 5–10% trace to slight

moderately sensitive 10–20% slight to noticeable

— highly sensitive > 20% appreciable to high

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Explanatory notes

Adverse influences of cationic aftertreatment

Influence of cationic aftertreatment

Effect cationic aftertreatment may cause shade changes and reduce light fastness, depending on the aftertreatment agent used

Test dyeings at 2/3 SD and navy light/black light on bleached CO tricot were aftertreated with 2% ALBAFIX ECO. Shade and light fastness were compared with those of the untreated fabric

Assessment

Xenon Shade vs. gray scale

not sensitive no diff. 0 to –0.5 rating

slightly sensitive –0.5 rating –0.5 to –1.0 rating

moderately sensitive –0.5 to –1.0 rating –1.0 to –1.5 rating

— highly sensitive > –1.0 rating > –1.5 rating

Adverse influences during drying

Influence of residual alkali/acid during drying

Effect residual alkali/acid in the fabric after rinsing can cause shade changes during drying (duller). Uneven distribution of alkali/acid can result in an unlevel appearance

Prevention a suitable neutralizing procedure is required

Test dyeings on bleached CO tricot were treated with buffer solutions at pH 5 and pH 9. The shade change was assessed by comparison with neutral fabric

Influence of residual hardness salts during drying

Effect rinsing in hard water can cause shade changes during drying

Prevention rinse with soft or softened water or add a sequestrant

Test bleached CO tricot was treated with water of 25° Clark. The shade change was assessed by comparison with fabric treated with demineralized water

Assessment

Shade change (duller)

not sensitive none to trace

slightly sensitive trace to slight

moderately sensitive slight to noticeable

— highly sensitive appreciable to high

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Explanatory notes

Adverse influences during drying (shade change)

Influence of gas-heated dryers

Effect poor gas quality and badly regulated gas dryers may develop gas fumes, which cause shade changes with some dyes

Prevention improve air circulation in the dryer

Test AATCC 164 – nitrogen oxides (NOx) – 1/2/3 cycles

Assessment after 3 cycles

not sensitive rating 4–5/5

slightly sensitive rating 4/4–5

moderately sensitive rating 3–4/4

— highly sensitive lower than rating < 3–4

Hot pressing, immediate

Effect immediately after drying/pressing, a significant shade change can occur with some dyes, but this will rectify itself after a minimum of 4h

Prevention cool down and condition before checking the shade

Test ISO 105/X11 hot pressing – immediate assessment of shade change.

– assessment of shade change after 4 hours.

Assessment

not sensitive rating 4–5/5

slightly sensitive rating 4/4–5

moderately sensitive rating 3–4/4

— highly sensitive lower than rating < 3–4

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Explanatory notes

Adverse influences during finishing

Influence of finishing

Effect Some finishes can have a pronounced effect on shade and light fastness.

Test CO cretonne, merc. is finished using the recipes below. Change of shade and Xenon light fastness are determined versus those of the unfinished fabrics.

Note If mill recipes differ from the finishing recipes below, preliminary trials are advisable.

Code Recipe

MU

Methylol urea

90 g/l KNITTEX LPF

20 g/l TURPEX ACN NEW

14 g/l KNITTEX–CATALYST MO 4 min at 150°C/302°F

MM Methylol melamine

60 g/l KNITTEX CHN

20 g/l TURPEX ACN NEW

12 g/l KNITTEX–CATALYST MO 4 min at 150°C/302°F

DM(OH2)EU Dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea

50 g/l KNITTEX FPC conc.

20 g/l TURPEX ACN NEW 2 ml/l Acetic acid 40%

15 g/l KNITTEX–CATALYST MO 4 min at 150°C/302°F

ULF Ultra–low formaldehyde

50 g/l KNITTEX FEL

30 g/l ULTRATEX FMS

15 g/l KNITTEX–CATALYST MO 4 min at 150°C/302°F

Flame retardant 400 g/l PYROVATEX CP NEW

60 g/l KNITTEX CHN

40 g/l ULTRATEX FSA NEW 20 g/l phosphoric acid 80% 4 min at 150°C/302°F (+ alkaline wash-off)

Hydrophobic Water repellent

5 ml/l INVADIN PBN

30 g/l KNITTEX FEL

9 g/l KNITTEX–CATALYST MO

50 g/l OLEOPHOBOL CO

5 g/l PHOBOL XAN 4 min at 150°C/302°F

In the pattern section finishes are indicated by the code if: Shade change (gray scale) is less than rating 4 versus unfinished fabric. Xenon light fastness is more than one rating lower than that of the unfinished fabric.

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Handling reactive dyes

NOVACRON FN dyes present no special risk to health if the usual hygiene and safety rules for handling chemicals are observed in storage, handling and use. Ingestion, inhalation, skin and eye contact, must be avoided. Any application restrictions indicated on the informative labels should also be observed.

For information on toxicology and ecology, please see the relevant Safety Data Sheets.

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Region Europe Huntsman Textile Effects (Germany) GmbH Rehlinger Str. 1 86462 Langweid a. Lech, Germany [email protected]

Tel: +49 8230 41-0 Fax: +49 8230 41-370

Region Americas Huntsman International LLC Textile Effects 4050 Premier Drive High Point, North Carolina 27265, USA [email protected]

Tel: +1 800 822 1736 Fax: +1 336 819 7440

Region Asia Huntsman (Guangdong) Ltd. Textile Effects Flying Geese Mountain Industrial Park Shilou Town, Panyu District, Guangzhou 511447, PR China [email protected]

Tel: +86 20 3937 7000 Fax: +86 20 8484 5222 Copyright © 2007 Huntsman. All rights reserved. All trademarks mentioned are registered trademarks of Huntsman Corporation or an affiliate thereof in one or more, but not all countries.

IMPORTANT: The following supersedes Buyer’s documents. Sales of the

product described herein (“Product”) are subject to the general terms and conditions of sale of either Huntsman Advanced Materials LLC, or its appropriate affiliate. Huntsman warrants that at the time and place of delivery all Products sold to Buyer shall conform to the specifications provided to Buyer by Huntsman. While the information and recommendations included in this publication are, to the best of Huntsman’s knowledge, accurate as of the date of publication, NOTHING CONTAINED HEREIN (EXCEPT AS SET FORTH ABOVE REGARDING CONFORMANCE WITH SPECIFICATIONS PROVIDED TO BUYER BY HUNTSMAN) IS TO BE CONSTRUED AS A REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO ANY WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, NONINFRINGEMENT OF ANY INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS, OR WARRANTIES AS TO QUALITY OR CORRESPONDENCE WITH PRIOR DESCRIPTION OR SAMPLE, AND THE BUYER ASSUMES ALL RISK AND LIABILITY WHATSOEVER RESULTING FROM THE USE OF SUCH PRODUCT, WHETHER USED SINGLY OR IN COMBINATION WITH OTHER SUBSTANCES. No statements or recommendations made herein are to be construed as a representation about the suitability of any Product for the particular application of Buyer or user or as an inducement to infringe any patent or other intellectual property right. Buyer is responsible to determine the applicability of such information and recommendations and the suitability of any Product for its own particular purpose, and to ensure that its intended use of the Product does not infringe any intellectual property rights. The Product may be or become hazardous. The Buyer should obtain Material Safety Data Sheets and Technical Data Sheets from Huntsman containing detailed information on Product hazards and toxicity, together with proper shipping, handling and storage procedures for the Product, and should comply with all applicable governmental laws, regulations and standards relating to the handling, use, storage, distribution and disposal of, and exposure to the Product. Buyer shall also take all steps necessary to adequately inform, warn and familiarize its employees, agents, direct and indirect customers and contractors who may handle or be exposed to the Product of all hazards pertaining to and proper procedures for safe handling, use, storage, transportation and disposal of and exposure to the Product, and the containers or equipment in which the Product may be handled, shipped or stored. Please note that products may differ from country to country. If you have any queries, kindly contact your local Huntsman representative.

(Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers)

121056e—March 08, Printed in Switzerland.

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