Complete Technical Information for Dyeing
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Transcript of Complete Technical Information for Dyeing
Textile Effects
NOVACRON®
Exhaust dyeing
Textile Competence: Effects
FN r eactive dyes
NOVACRON® FN
Page 2
Contents
Page
NOVACRON FN ......................................................................................................................................... 3
General ...................................................................................................................................................... 4
Dyeing methods for 100% CEL
Overview/yarn and piecegoods ............................................................................................................. 5
Dyeing method for pale to medium shades........................................................................................... 6
Dyeing method for deep shades............................................................................................................ 6
Salt and alkali recommendations at different liquor ratio....................................................................... 7
Dyeing method with caustic soda .......................................................................................................... 9
Washing off yarn and piecegoods ........................................................................................................ 10
Dyeing methods for blends
Polyester/cellulose blends ................................................................................................................... 11
Polyamide/cellulose blends ................................................................................................................. 12
Dyeing auxiliaries
Penetrating/de-aerating/defoaming, Special products......................................................................... 13
Special products cont., Soaping, Cationic aftertreatment ................................................................... 14
Pretreatment for CO and its blends, including elastane
Discontinuous peroxide bleach / SMART PREP ................................................................................. 15
Discontinuous acid cracking................................................................................................................ 15
Discontinuous alkaline cracking .......................................................................................................... 15
Pretreatment products ........................................................................................................................... 16
Explanatory notes
Patterns, OEKO-Tex 100, HT cross-dyeing PES/CEL ........................................................................ 17
Post-bleaching, Post-mercerizing........................................................................................................ 18
Dischargeability, Solubility, Final exhaustion, Fixation ........................................................................ 19
Washing-off properties, Coverage of dead cotton, Coverage of barry viscose................................... 20
Influence of liquor ratio, Influence of salt addition ............................................................................... 20
Partial and radical stripping of dyeings ................................................................................................ 21
Fastness properties ............................................................................................................................. 22
Adverse influences during dyeing........................................................................................................ 23
Adverse influences of cationic aftertreatment ..................................................................................... 24
Adverse influences during drying................................................................................................... 24–25
Adverse influences during finishing ..................................................................................................... 26
Handling reactive dyes........................................................................................................................... 27
NOVACRON® FN
Page 3
NOVACRON® FN
The NOVACRON FN dyes are innovative bi-hetero reactive dyes for warm exhaust dyeing.
Highly compatible range for a wide shade spectrum and high fastness performance.
Excellent reproducibility and outstanding washing-off properties resulting in increased productivity.
Highlights of NOVACRON® FN ...and what they mean for the dyer
Highest fastness levels
- light fastness - perspiration light fastness (PLF) - oxidative bleach
- color retention to home laundering
Fulfills brand & retailer requirements - pale shades - sportswear articles - repeated washing with peroxide (M&S test) - High IQ Lasting Color
Compact range of brilliant dyes
- few elements - high brilliancy of each element
Wide shade gamut - low inventory, simple replenishment - covers a wide shade gamut
Outstanding reproducibility - similar affinity level - robust dyes - very good diffusion - reactive bonds stable in both alkaline and acid condition
Improved right-first-time - excellent compatibility - little sensitivity to varying dyeing parameters - good leveling, uniform fabric appearance - high bulk to bulk reproducibility
Short and simple dyeing process - isotherm process at warm temperature - high solubility in presence of salt and alkali - easy washing off (see below)
Water & energy savings - energy savings - suitable for short liquor ratio dyeing - water savings
Excellent washing off
- high fixation rate - medium affinity level - low re-deposition on fabric
Ecology - little dyestuff to be washed off - hydrolyzed dyestuff easy to remove - good color blocking
NOVACRON® FN
Page 4
General
Storing the dyes
Powder dyes are stable to storage for more than two years, liquid dyes for more than 1 year in closed containers at 20–30°C/68–86°F.
Pretreatment
The goods should have a neutral pH and high absorbency. Impurities, sizes and lubricants must be carefully removed. Any peroxide residues from bleaching must be removed or destroyed in order to prevent losses of yield and/or unlevelness (especially important with pale shades). If peroxide killers are used, cold rinsing is recommended before dyeing. The pH must be adjusted to 6 at the beginning of dyeing.
Dissolving powder dyes
The dyes are best dissolved by: Strewing into 10 times their weight of hot water (not higher than 80°C/176°F) and high speed stirring or pasting with cold water and pouring on hot water.
Notes
It is advisable to use soft or softened water. To avoid loss of yield through hydrolysis, the pH of the water should be slightly acid to neutral.
Notes on dyeing
If the goods are pretreated in an alkaline medium or in areas where process water with a pH above 7 is used, an addition of acetic acid at the start of dyeing is recommended.
The pH should be about 6 before the dyes are added.
Salt: Either common salt or Glauber’s salt anhydrous can be used. Glauber’s salt can occasionally have a marked acid reaction. If this occurs, the amount of fixing alkali has to be increased accordingly. Sea salt and impure common salt contain soluble alkaline earth ions. If Glauber’s salt cryst. (Na2SO4.10 H2O) is used, the amount of salt must be doubled.
To prevent precipitation � see: Use of dyeing auxiliaries.
Alkali: Soda ash or soda ash and caustic soda or caustic soda are recommended, depending on method. With soda ash, and more particularly with mixed alkali, care must be taken with industrial grades that may contain a certain amount of sodium bicarbonate. This reduces the pH during the fixation phase.
Notes on dyes
Most of the Golden Yellow can show photochomy.
NOVACRON® FN
Page 5
Dyeing methods for 100% CEL
Overview/yarn and piecegoods
60°C/140°F method Soda ash
80/60°C/176/140°F method
For merc. CO or CV and fabrics difficult to penetrate
- if soda ash is preferred for fixation
- for unfavorable conditions as far as alkali additions are concerned (no dispensing equipment available)
Salt addition: in portions (e.g. 1/10, 2/10, 7/10)
Alkali addition: in portions (e.g. 1/3, 2/3)
Modification The following method is an alternative to that described above (dye before salt) and can save time:
salt or brine is added at the beginning, the dissolved dye is added subsequently over 10–20 min
60°C/140°F method Soda ash + caustic soda
- if mixed alkali is preferred for fixation
- smaller addition volume for small addition tanks
- lower impact of the liquor ratio
Salt addition: in portions (e.g. 1/10, 2/10, 7/10)
Alkali addition: 1. add: soda ash, 2. add slowly: caustic soda, well diluted
Modification The following method is an alternative to that described above (dye before salt) and can save time:
salt or brine is added at the beginning, the dissolved dye is added subsequently over 10–20 min
60°C/140°F method ALBATEX
® SA-200
- if liquid alkali is preferred for fixation
- smaller addition volume for small addition tanks
- lower impact of the liquor ratio
Salt addition: in portions (e.g. 1/10, 2/10, 7/10)
Alkali addition: over 30-40 min at 70% progression
Modification The following method is an alternative to that described above (dye before salt) and can save time:
salt or brine is added at the beginning, the dissolved dye is added subsequently over 10–20 min
60°C/140°F dispensing method caustic soda
- for fully automated machinery with dispensing equipment
Salt or brine is added at the beginning
Dye solution is dispensed linearly over 10–20 min
Alkali is added over 45 min at 70% progression
NOVACRON® FN
Page 6
Dyeing methods for 100% CEL
Yarn and piecegoods
60°C/140°F method for pale to medium shades
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
194
86
104
122
140
158
176
Aux.
Dyes
Salt
°C °F
Soda ash
or Soda ash / NaOH
or ALBATEX® SA-200
dispensed or in portions
10' 20' 15-30' 30' 30-40'
60°C/140°F method for deep shades
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
194
86
104
122
140
158
176
Aux.
Salt
Dyes
°C °F
Soda ash
or Soda ash / NaOH
or ALBATEX® SA-200
dispensed or in portions
10' 20' 15-30' 30' 30-40'
Notes
- *On CV and merc. CO use the 80/60°C, 176/140°F method with soda ash only.
- = dispensed or in portions.
NOVACRON® FN
Page 7
Dyeing methods for 100% CEL
Salt and alkali recommendations at different liquor ratio
Soda ash method
Liquor ratio below 6:1 (Ultra Short Liquor Ratio)
NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5
Auxiliaries see pages 13–14
Salt g/l 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Soda ash % 14 16 18 20 20 20 20
Liquor ratio below 8:1
NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5
Auxiliaries see pages 13–14
Salt g/l 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Soda ash g/l 10 12 14 16 18 20 20
Liquor ratio at and above 8:1
NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5
Auxiliaries see pages 13–14
Salt g/l 30 40 50 60 80 90 100
Soda ash g/l 8 10 12 14 16 18 18
Mixed alkali method
Liquor ratio below 6:1 (Ultra Short Liquor Ratio)
NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5
Auxiliaries see pages 13–14
Salt g/l 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Soda ash % 10 10 5 5 5 5 5
NaOH % 0.5 1 2 2.5 3 3.5 4
Liquor ratio below 8:1
NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5
Auxiliaries see pages 13–14
Salt g/l 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Soda ash g/l 10 5 5 5 5 5 5
NaOH ml/l – 0.75 1.25 1.5 2 2.5 3
Liquor ratio at and above 8:1
NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5
Auxiliaries see pages 13–14
Salt g/l 30 40 50 60 80 90 100
Soda ash g/l 8 5 5 5 5 5 5
NaOH ml/l – 0.5 1 1.25 1.5 2 2.5
NaOH 36°Bé/66°Tw
NOVACRON® FN
Page 8
ALBATEX® SA-200 method
Liquor ratio below 6:1 (Ultra Short Liquor Ratio)
NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5
Auxiliaries see pages 13–14
Salt g/l 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
ALBATEX® SA-200 % 2.5 2.75 3 3.5 4.5 5.5 6.5
Liquor ratio below 8:1
NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5
Auxiliaries see pages 13–14
Salt g/l 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
ALBATEX® SA-200 g/l 2.5 2.75 3 3.5 4.5 5.5 6.5
Liquor ratio at and above 8:1
NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5 1 2 3 4 ≥ 5
Auxiliaries see pages 13–14
Salt g/l 30 40 50 60 80 90 100
ALBATEX® SA-200 g/l 2.5 2.75 3 3.5 4.5 5.5 6.5
Notes
- For CV and CO merc. the amount of salt can be reduced by 20–30%.
- Quality of salt; see page 4.
NOVACRON® FN
Page 9
Dyeing methods for 100% CEL
Yarn and piecegoods
60°C/140°F caustic soda dispensing method
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
194
86
104
122
140
158
176
Aux.
Salt
Dyes
°C °F
NaOH
dispensed or in portions
10' 20' 15-30' 45' 30-45'
Salt and alkali recommendations/liquor ratio below 8:1
NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5–1 1–2 2–3 3–4 4–5 above 5
Auxiliaries see pages 13–14
Salt g/l 20–30 30–40 40–50 50–60 60–70 70–80 80
NaOH ml/l 2.7–3.3 3.3 3.3–3.8 3.8–4.4 4.4–5 5–5.5 5.5
Salt and alkali recommendations/liquor ratio at and above 8:1
NOVACRON FN % < 0.5 0.5–1 1–2 2–3 3–4 4–5 above 5
Auxiliaries see pages 13–14
Salt g/l 30–40 40–50 50–60 60–80 80–90 90–100 100
NaOH ml/l 1.9–2.3 2.3 2.3–2.7 2.7–3 3–3.4 3.4–3.8 3.8
NaOH 36°Bé/66°Tw
Notes
- The mixed alkali method is our main recommendation for full shades with Navy FN-BN.
- Quality of salt; see page 4.
NOVACRON® FN
Page 10
Washing off yarn and piecegoods – 100% CEL
Rinse for 10 min at 50°C/122°F One rinse is sufficient if liquor ratio is 10:1 If liquor ratio is below 10:1, overflow or intermittent rinse
Neutralize for 10 min at 50°C/122°F With acetic acid (pH = 5.5 to 6)
Soap for 10 min at 90°C/194°F The addition of a soaping agent is advisable. See dyeing auxiliaries/soaping
Soap for 10 min at 90°C/194°F A second soaping operation is recommended for very deep shades if necessary
Rinse for 10 min at 50°C/122°F
Rinse for 10 min cold
Soften as usual or aftertreat See dyeing auxiliaries/aftertreatment
NOVACRON® FN
Page 11
Dyeing method for polyester/cellulose blends
Yarn and piecegoods
A two-bath process using TERASIL® WW/W-EL dyes and NOVACRON FN is recommended for high
wash fastness (at 60°C/140°F) requirements.
Dye the polyester component first
HT dyeing with TERASIL WW/W-EL dyes
Dye the cellulose component…
by one of the NOVACRON methods described.
Wash off as described.
Two-bath process / FN-FAST
• Highest wash fastness performance ever achieved with disperse/reactive dyes
• For articles where the wash fastness is the main issue
• Use of state-of-the-art disperse dyes TERASIL WW/W-EL in conjunction with state-of-the-art reactive dyes NOVACRON FN
• More process time, water and energy consumption needed due to the two-bath technique
• No intermediate reduction clearing necessary
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
110
120
130
140
176
158
140
122
104
86
194
212
230
248
266
284
0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380
A
°F°C
B C D
min
A B C TERASIL WW/W-EL dyes NOVACRON FN dyes common salt
3–4 g/l ALBATEX®
AB-45 or D 2 g/l ammonium sulfate + formic acid soda ash 0.5 g/l ALBAFLOW
® JET caustic soda
1–2 g/l ALBATEX®
AR (if necessary) 1 g/l UNIVADINE
® DPL
B
NOVACRON® FN
Page 12
Dyeing method for polyamide/cellulose blends
Yarn and piecegoods
Reactive dyes are frequently used in conjunction with LANASET® dyes for dyeing polyamide/cellulose
blends, allowing maximum wet fastness properties to be achieved.
The main challenge, besides fulfilling the demands for high fastness, lies in achieving the same shade on both fibers, in other words a solid dyeing.
These requirements can be achieved by applying a two-bath procedure with NOVACRON FN dyes for the CEL portion and LANASET dyes for the polyamide portion.
Dye the cellulosic component first
Dye the cellulosic component by one of the NOVACRON methods described.
Washing off NOVACRON FN
Good reservation of the polyamide portion during dyeing of the cellulose portion guarantees excellent reproducibility and easy shade matching. NOVACRON FN dyes fulfill these requirements.
For the best results we recommend maintaining a weakly alkaline pH throughout washing off and performing the final neutralization of residual alkali after the wash off.
(For special effects, like white reservation of polyamide, ERIONAL RN can be used as a blocking agent).
Washing-off procedure for NOVACRON FN dyes on CEL/PA blends:
1. rinse for 10 min at 50°C/122°F 2. rinse for 10 min at 50°C/122°F 3. soap for 15 min at 90°C/194°F 4. rinse for 10 min at 50°C/122°F 5. neutralize with 0.5 ml/l acetic acid 80% for 10 min at 50°C/122°F
Dye the polyamide component…
with LANASET dyes (see pattern card or pocket card).
Rinse and neutralize if necessary.
For more details on CEL/PA blends specific pamphlets are available.
NOVACRON® FN
Page 13
Dyeing auxiliaries
Penetrating/de–aerating/defoaming
Products Effects Benefits
0.1–0.5 g/l
ALBAFLOW FFC-01 slightly anionic
penetration accelerant
- silicone containing product with de-aerating effect and durable antifoaming action - very stable to high alkali and electrolyte concentrations ideal for machines with short liquor or air stream technology
0.3–0.5 g/l
ALBAFLOW SF PLUS
nonionic
penetration accelerant
- Mineral-oil-free product with reinforced foam control properties
- APEO- and solvent free. Contains no silicon oil, no silicate
- good stability to electrolytes and shear
0.3–1 g/l
ALBAFLOW CIR anionic
penetration accelerant
- APEO- and solvent free de-aerating agent with wetting properties and durable antifoam properties - instant penetration of goods, especially recommended for circulating liquor dyeing machines - stable in acid and alkaline media - promotes constant liquor flow, hence inside-outside levelness and reduced risk of channeling
0.1–0.5 g/l
ALBAFLOW JET anionic
penetration accelerant
- APEO- and solvent free product with durable antifoaming action - very stable to high alkali and electrolyte concentrations - specially recommended for jet and overflow machines with short liquor or air stream technology alternative
Special products
Products Effects Benefits
1–3 g/l
LYOPRINT RG anionic
reduction protectant
- protects reactive dyes against reduction during dyeing
0.5–2 g/l
ALBATEX DBC anionic
dispersing agent Ca inactivation
- dyebath conditioner: prevents precipitation of Ca, Mg in the water or on the textile - promotes levelness of the dyeing and improves the appearance of the dyed goods - binds metal ions (Fe, Cu) in the water
0.5–2 g/l
ALBATEX CO anionic
protective colloid Ca inactivation
- avoids precipitation of Ca, Mg in the water or on the textile - promotes levelness of the dyeing and improves the appearance of the dyed goods - keeps impurities from unpretreated cotton in stable dispersion
0.5–3 g/l
ALBATEX DS anionic
polymeric dispersant and protective colloid
- dyebath conditioner avoids precipitation of Ca, Mg in the water or on the textile - promotes the levelness of the dyeing and improves the appearance of the dyed goods - binds heavy metal ions in the water
NOVACRON® FN
Page 14
Special products (cont.)
Products Effects Benefits
0.5–2 g/l
ALBAFLUID C anionic/nonionic
lubricant - reduces creasing in piece dyeing - markedly reduces textile-to-textile friction - prevents cracks and abrasion marks - no adverse effect on the stability of the dyebath - no retarding effect
0.5–2 g/l
ALBAFLUID U anionic/nonionic
lubricant - for very sensitive fabrics - prevents crack marks and creases - no adverse effect on the stability of the dyebath - no retarding effect - excellent for heavy goods
0.5–2 g/l
ALBAFLUID CD anionic/nonionic
lubricant - suitable for dosing systems - reduces the friction of fabric against fabric and fabrics against machine parts by virtue of its structural viscosity - assists formation of a protective water layer in zones of high shear forces, creating an “aqua planning” effect - no adverse effect on the color yield - can be rinsed out of the fabric completely
Soaping
Products Effects Benefits
0.5–2 g/l
ERIOPON R LIQ anionic
washing agent
- speeds up release and outward diffusion of dye hydrolysates, even in hard water - prevents renewed uptake of dye hydrolysates - inactivates water hardness ions and ensures maximum fastness properties - low foaming
Note for all dyeing auxiliaries Amount required depends on specific conditions, e.g. type of fabric, quality of process water, type of machinery.
Aftertreatment with ALBAFIX ECO
Products Effects Benefits
1–3%
ALBAFIX ECO cationic
wet fastness improver
- formaldehyde-free - zinc-free - prevents migration after dyeing - protects dye/fiber bond of reactive dyes against acid hydrolysis and thermocracking - allows good wash fastness up to 50°C/122°F - no adverse effect on handle
Goods dyed to medium and deep shades should be aftertreated following washing off
Method: aftertreatment with ALBAFIX ECO at 40°C/104°F for 20–30 min. pH 6–7 adjusted with acetic acid. The goods are then hydroextracted and dried without rinsing.
NOVACRON® FN
Page 15
Pretreatment for CO and its blends, including elastane
Discontinuous peroxide bleach / SMART PREP:
0.5–1.5 ml/l CLARITE® GS
1.0–2.0 ml/l INVADINE® DA or ULTRAVON
® EL
1.0–2.5 g/l NaOH 100% 2.0–10 ml/l H2O2 35% or 2.5–4.0 ml/l CLARITE
® COM
1.0–2.5 g/l NaOH 100% 2.0–10 ml/l H2O2 35%
Liquor ratio: 4:1–20:1
Temperature: 90–98°C (ULTRA BLEACH up to 115°C)
Reaction time: 20–60 min (ULTRA BLEACH up to 20 min)
Cooling/rinsing combined or separate hot rinse; drain.
Neutralizing/final clearing with INVATEX® AC at 40–60°C for 5–10 min.
Without draining, remove peroxide with INVAZYM® CAT at 40–60°C for 5–10 min; dyeing can be
performed in the same bath.
For goods with high alkaline earth and heavy metal ion contents, it is advisable to carry out an acid cracking process before bleaching to enhance effects and process safety.
Discontinuous acid cracking
0.5–2.0 ml/l INVATEX® SA
1.0–2.0 ml/l INVADINE® DA or ULTRAVON
® EL
Liquor ratio: 4:1–20:1/temperature: 30–60°C
Reaction time: 20–30 min/hot rinse; continue with bleaching
For dark shades, which do not require bleaching, it is advisable to carry out an alkaline cracking process to remove greases, waxes, oils and other kinds of impurities.
Discontinuous alkaline cracking
1.0–4.0 g/l NaOH 100% or soda ash 0.5–1.0 ml/l INVATEX
® SA
1.0–2.0 ml/l INVADINE® DA or ULTRAVON
® EL
Liquor ratio: 4:1–20:1/temperature: 90–98°C
Reaction time: 20–40 min/hot rinse
Neutralizing/final clearing with INVATEX® AC at 40–60°C for 5–10 min
NOVACRON® FN
Page 16
Pretreatment products
CLARITE® GS
bleach-processor
Processor for batchwise, discontinuous systems.
Crystallization and precipitation-inhibiting action in heavily soiled
bleaching systems such as one-stage rapid bleaching, and in extremely
short-liquor-ratio machines. Contains no surfactant; anionic.
CLARITE® COM
bleach-processor
Combination product for batch-wise bleaching with peroxide. Regulates
the formation of active oxygen.
No other additions to the bleach bath required than hydrogen peroxide
and alkali. Good detergency and emulsifying properties.
Anionic/nonionic.
INVADINE® DA
surfactant
Low foaming wetting agent and detergent for discontinuous pretreatment
and continuous immersion processes. Good detergency/emulsifying
properties and good hydrophilicity of the goods. Very effective also on
synthetics and Elastane. APEO-free, anionic/nonionic.
ULTRAVON® EL
surfactant
Dissolves grease and oil readily. High wetting/detergent/dispersing
power reinforced by a crystallization-retarding complexing action. Low-
foaming, stable at high alkali concentrations (up to 300 g/l caustic soda
100%).
Suitable for enzymatic desizing. Stain-removing action at high
concentrations. APEO-free, anionic.
INVATEX® AC
cracking agent
Special cracking agent to optimize the washing process, mainly applied
after bleaching or mercerizing. Core neutralization of the cellulose fiber
and extremely clean fabrics through thorough removal of traces of
impurities at the final rinsing stage. High complexing/dispersing power
and threshold effect. Contains no phosphorous or surfactant, anionic.
INVATEX® SA
cracking agent
Versatile sequestrant mixture, especially for acid and alkaline cracking.
Marked retardation of crystallization, high capacity to inactivate heavy
metal ions in highly alkaline media. Stable to oxidation and effective at
high alkali concentrations (>300 g/l caustic soda 100%).
Prevents precipitation in causticizing, mercerizing and caustic soda
recuperation baths. Contains no surfactant, anionic.
INVAZYME® CAT
enzyme
Stabilized, liquid catalase. The catalase enzyme removes the hydrogen
peroxide specifically by splitting it into oxygen and water. Improves
shade reproducibility without loss of color yield with dyes that are
sensitive to oxidation processes. Outstanding biodegradability.
Very broad application spectrum: pH 3–10 and temperature up to 65°C.
NOVACRON® FN
Page 17
Explanatory notes
Patterns
The patterns illustrated were dyed to four depths on bleached cotton tricot. The amounts of dye are given for the 60°C/140°F method/soda ash at liquor ratio 10:1.
Oeko-Tex 100
The Oeko-Tex 100 tests are performed on ready-to-wear goods. Dye selection is only one consideration. Type of fabric, procedures and finishing agents are equally important. The pattern card covers dye selection only. Reference Oeko-Tex Standard 100, edition 1/2007
Assessment Provided the dyeing is performed according to our recommendations, dyes marked with � can attain the standard
HT cross-dyeing PES/CEL
Method Reverse dyeing method for PES/CEL blends. Cross-dyeing with 2 g/l monosodium phosphate, pH 5.5 with acetic acid, 60 min at 130°C/266°F
Substrate CO cretonne, bleached
Dye conc. approx. 2/3 SD and navy light/black light
Assessment
Suitability Versus untreated fabric
very good ≥ 90% yield, no shade change
good 80–90% yield, no shade change
moderate 70–80% yield, shade change
— not suitable < 70% yield, shade change
NOVACRON® FN
Page 18
Explanatory notes
Post-bleaching
A remarkable increase in productivity is achieved if the goods are dyed in the gray state and post-bleaching is integrated into the washing-off process.
Method Stability to post-bleaching
Standard Washing off as recommended
Comparison The soaping bath is replaced by a post-bleaching process with
OKM= g/l soda ash
TKR= ml/l peroxide 35% w/w X g/l stabilizer cold to 95°C/203°F at 2°C/min, 15 min at 95°C/203°F
Assessment
Suitability Versus untreated fabric
very good ≥ 95% yield, no shade change
good 90–95% yield, no shade change
moderate 85–90% yield, shade change
— not suitable < 85% yield, shade change
Note Dyes rated (very good) are also suitable for yarn dyeings to be bleached with peroxide after weaving/knitting
Test Peroxide bleach ISO 105/N02
Assessment (very good) = shade change 4–5/5, staining of CO: 4–5
Post-mercerizing
Test Huntsman TE internal test
Assessment
Suitability Shade change Staining of CO
very good none/trace 4–5/5
good slight/noticeable 4/4–5
moderate appreciable/high 3–4/4
— not suitable high < 3–4
NOVACRON® FN
Page 19
Explanatory notes
Dischargeability
Dischargeability is tested on woven material, bleached, mercerized, at 1/6, 1/3, 1/1 and 2/1 SD.
Neutral discharge Alkaline discharge
550 g SOLVITOSE C5 10%) 450 g SOLVITOSE C5 10%
250 g water 220 g water
150 g RONGALIT C (BASF) 150 g RONGALIT C
50 g glycerin 130 g potash powder
50 g glycerin
Dischargeability is assessed by the gray scale. The dischargeability limit specifies the standard depth at which gray-scale rating 4 is still attained.
Assessment
very good up to 2/1 SD
good up to 1/1 SD
moderate 1/3–1/1 SD
— not attained < 1/3 SD
Solubility
The amount of dye in grams which is soluble in 1 liter distilled water at 30°C/86°F and 60°C/140°F. Solubility at 60°C/140°F is also given under dyeing conditions with the appropriate salt and alkali additions.
Final exhaustion/fixation
This refers to dyeings on cotton tricot, non-mercerized, produced at about 2/3 SD and navy light/black light by the 60°C/140°F method using soda ash at liquor ratio 10:1 after 90 min dyeing.
Note
Exhaustion and fixation depend heavily on dye concentration, liquor ratio, method and substrate.
NOVACRON® FN
Page 20
Explanatory notes
Washing-off properties
Methods: 1SD and navy light/black light dyeings on bleached CO tricot are washed off using standard procedure described page 9. Wet fastness properties achieved Staining of CO, Washing C1S, water: limit - rating 4
Assessment
very good after standard washing-off procedure
good after standard washing-off procedure with a second soaping bath
Coverage of dead cotton
Coverage of immature and mature cotton is assessed as very good, good or moderate for the individual dyes.
Coverage of barry viscose
Coverage of viscose with varying affinity is assessed as very good, good or moderate for the individual dyes.
Influence of liquor ratio
The figures refer to 1% dyeings and 6% for black on bleached CO tricot dyed by the 60°C/140°F method using soda ash. The relative strength is assessed versus that at liquor ratio 10:1 (100).
Influence of salt addition
The figures refer to 2% dyeings and 6% for black on bleached CO tricot dyed by the 60°C/140°F method using soda ash. Relative strength is determined with less and more salt than the appropriate amount.
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Explanatory notes
Partial and radical stripping of dyeings
Recommended methods
Hydrosulfite alkaline A 5 g/l hydrosulfite conc. 15 ml/l caustic soda 36°Bé (66°Tw) 50°C/122°F raise over 15 min to 90°C/194°F and treat for a further 15 min
Chlorine B 3 g/l available chlorine pH 10–11 with caustic soda, treat for 60 min at 20–30°C/68–86°F, antichlor with sodium thiosulfate or sodium bisulfite
Hydrosulfite neutral D 5g/l hydrosulfite conc. 50°C/122°F, raise over 15 min to 90°C/194°F and treat for a further 15 min
Partial stripping % 30 g/l salt 8 ml/l caustic soda 36°Bé (66°Tw) heat rapidly to 95°C/203°F, treat for 10–45 min (depending on required shade reduction) cool, rinse and neutralize
Stripping methods can be combined. The order in which they are carried out is indicated by the position of the letters (AB/BA). The recommended stripping methods are indicated by the letters above
Most suitable stripping method almost fully stripped
Suitable stripping method markedly weakened
Partial stripping attainable stripping effect in %
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Explanatory notes
Fastness properties
Light fastness was tested at the given standard depths. Other fastness properties refer to dyeings at about 1/1 standard depth (SD), and navy light and black light. Light fastness is measured upwards from 1 to 8, other fastness properties from 1 to 5.
Fastness properties were tested and assessed in accordance with International Standard (IS) ISO 105, issued by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO).
All fastness tests were performed on cotton woven bleached and merc.
Key to abbreviations
Shade changes Bl = bluer Br = brighter
G = greener De = deeper
R = redder D = duller, flatter
Y = yellower W = weaker
Fastness tables Ch = shade change CO = staining of cotton
CV = staining of viscose WO = staining of wool
Light fastness, Xenon lamp
1/25–2/1 SD or black light/navy light Xenon lamp ISO 105/B02
Artificial light lamp
TL 84/Tungsten Shade under TL 84 and Tungsten lamps is compared with that in daylight and the change assessed
Washing
60°C/140°F, C1S 1x
60°C/140°F, C1S 5x
ISO 105/C06
Wash test with fresh wash solution, 5 times (without intermediate drying)
95°C/203°F, E1S 1x ISO 105/C06
Washing with peroxide, 95°C/203°F, E2S ISO 105/C06
Washing with chlorine, 70°C/158°F, D3S ISO 105/C06
Water ISO 105/E01
Sea water ISO 105/E02
Chlorinated water, 20 mg/l ISO 105/E03
Perspiration, alkaline ISO 105/E04
Perspiration, acid ISO 105/E04
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Explanatory notes
Adverse influences during dyeing
Reduction
Effect reducing substances transferred from the substrate into the dyebath, e.g. viscose or peroxide killer residues, may result in loss of yield and thus cause reproducibility problems
Prevention a mild oxidizing agent (→ see: use of dyeing auxiliaries) should be added
Assessment
not sensitive ≥ 95% yield, no shade change
slightly sensitive 90–95% yield, no shade change
moderately sensitive 85–90% yield, shade change
— highly sensitive < 85% yield, shade change
Cu/Fe ions in the dyebath
Effect Cu and Fe ions in the dyebath originating from the substrate or process water can cause shade changes
Prevention → see: use of dyeing auxiliaries
Test dyeings were produced in the presence of 1 mg/l Cu or 1 mg/l Fe and compared with dyeings without metal ions
Assessment
not sensitive no shade difference
slightly sensitive little shade difference
moderately sensitive moderate shade difference
— highly sensitive significant shade difference
Chlorine in process water
Effect chlorine, often present in municipal water, may cause loss of yield and/or shade changes
Prevention continuous dechlorination of the incoming water, or addition of a reducing agent, e.g. 0.1–0.5 g/l sodium thiosulfate
Test yield and shade change of dyeing performed in the presence of 5 mg/l Cl were assessed by comparison with dyeings produced without any chlorine
Assessment
Yield loss Shade change
not sensitive 0–5% none to trace
slightly sensitive 5–10% trace to slight
moderately sensitive 10–20% slight to noticeable
— highly sensitive > 20% appreciable to high
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Explanatory notes
Adverse influences of cationic aftertreatment
Influence of cationic aftertreatment
Effect cationic aftertreatment may cause shade changes and reduce light fastness, depending on the aftertreatment agent used
Test dyeings at 2/3 SD and navy light/black light on bleached CO tricot were aftertreated with 2% ALBAFIX ECO. Shade and light fastness were compared with those of the untreated fabric
Assessment
Xenon Shade vs. gray scale
not sensitive no diff. 0 to –0.5 rating
slightly sensitive –0.5 rating –0.5 to –1.0 rating
moderately sensitive –0.5 to –1.0 rating –1.0 to –1.5 rating
— highly sensitive > –1.0 rating > –1.5 rating
Adverse influences during drying
Influence of residual alkali/acid during drying
Effect residual alkali/acid in the fabric after rinsing can cause shade changes during drying (duller). Uneven distribution of alkali/acid can result in an unlevel appearance
Prevention a suitable neutralizing procedure is required
Test dyeings on bleached CO tricot were treated with buffer solutions at pH 5 and pH 9. The shade change was assessed by comparison with neutral fabric
Influence of residual hardness salts during drying
Effect rinsing in hard water can cause shade changes during drying
Prevention rinse with soft or softened water or add a sequestrant
Test bleached CO tricot was treated with water of 25° Clark. The shade change was assessed by comparison with fabric treated with demineralized water
Assessment
Shade change (duller)
not sensitive none to trace
slightly sensitive trace to slight
moderately sensitive slight to noticeable
— highly sensitive appreciable to high
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Explanatory notes
Adverse influences during drying (shade change)
Influence of gas-heated dryers
Effect poor gas quality and badly regulated gas dryers may develop gas fumes, which cause shade changes with some dyes
Prevention improve air circulation in the dryer
Test AATCC 164 – nitrogen oxides (NOx) – 1/2/3 cycles
Assessment after 3 cycles
not sensitive rating 4–5/5
slightly sensitive rating 4/4–5
moderately sensitive rating 3–4/4
— highly sensitive lower than rating < 3–4
Hot pressing, immediate
Effect immediately after drying/pressing, a significant shade change can occur with some dyes, but this will rectify itself after a minimum of 4h
Prevention cool down and condition before checking the shade
Test ISO 105/X11 hot pressing – immediate assessment of shade change.
– assessment of shade change after 4 hours.
Assessment
not sensitive rating 4–5/5
slightly sensitive rating 4/4–5
moderately sensitive rating 3–4/4
— highly sensitive lower than rating < 3–4
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Explanatory notes
Adverse influences during finishing
Influence of finishing
Effect Some finishes can have a pronounced effect on shade and light fastness.
Test CO cretonne, merc. is finished using the recipes below. Change of shade and Xenon light fastness are determined versus those of the unfinished fabrics.
Note If mill recipes differ from the finishing recipes below, preliminary trials are advisable.
Code Recipe
MU
Methylol urea
90 g/l KNITTEX LPF
20 g/l TURPEX ACN NEW
14 g/l KNITTEX–CATALYST MO 4 min at 150°C/302°F
MM Methylol melamine
60 g/l KNITTEX CHN
20 g/l TURPEX ACN NEW
12 g/l KNITTEX–CATALYST MO 4 min at 150°C/302°F
DM(OH2)EU Dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea
50 g/l KNITTEX FPC conc.
20 g/l TURPEX ACN NEW 2 ml/l Acetic acid 40%
15 g/l KNITTEX–CATALYST MO 4 min at 150°C/302°F
ULF Ultra–low formaldehyde
50 g/l KNITTEX FEL
30 g/l ULTRATEX FMS
15 g/l KNITTEX–CATALYST MO 4 min at 150°C/302°F
Flame retardant 400 g/l PYROVATEX CP NEW
60 g/l KNITTEX CHN
40 g/l ULTRATEX FSA NEW 20 g/l phosphoric acid 80% 4 min at 150°C/302°F (+ alkaline wash-off)
Hydrophobic Water repellent
5 ml/l INVADIN PBN
30 g/l KNITTEX FEL
9 g/l KNITTEX–CATALYST MO
50 g/l OLEOPHOBOL CO
5 g/l PHOBOL XAN 4 min at 150°C/302°F
In the pattern section finishes are indicated by the code if: Shade change (gray scale) is less than rating 4 versus unfinished fabric. Xenon light fastness is more than one rating lower than that of the unfinished fabric.
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Handling reactive dyes
NOVACRON FN dyes present no special risk to health if the usual hygiene and safety rules for handling chemicals are observed in storage, handling and use. Ingestion, inhalation, skin and eye contact, must be avoided. Any application restrictions indicated on the informative labels should also be observed.
For information on toxicology and ecology, please see the relevant Safety Data Sheets.
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121056e—March 08, Printed in Switzerland.
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