Companion Planting at the Bock Community Garden, Middleton, Wisconsin

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The Bock Community Garden Monthly Newsletter - May 2011 What’s in this Issue? Cardboard pg 2 Healthy Garden Series pg 2 West Ag Research Evals pg 2 Transplant or Direct Seeding pg 3 Transplanting Suggestions pg 4 Garden Journals, What to Track pg 4 Here Come the Weeds pg 5 Bock Fruit Tree Orchard pg 6 Bock Garage Sale Coming Soon pg 6 Row Covers for Rabbits pg 7 Planting Techniques pg 8 Companion Planting pg 9-11 Workdays pg 12 Garden Committee pg 12 Garden Journals If you want to be a successful gardener - you should keep a garden journal, noting such things as soil preparation, planting, weeding, fertilizing, bloom time, date crops ripen, and growing results. Also note any problems with weeds, insects, or rainfall, and whether the harvest of each item was sufficient, too much, or not enough. At the end of the growing season, you'll have a complete record of what you did, and this information will give you the basics for planning next year's garden. More ideas on page 4. Patty Zehl, Communications Coordinator

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Companion Planting at the Bock Community Garden, Middleton, Wisconsin

Transcript of Companion Planting at the Bock Community Garden, Middleton, Wisconsin

Page 1: Companion Planting at the Bock Community Garden, Middleton, Wisconsin

The

Bock Community Garden

Monthly Newsletter - May 2011

What’s in this Issue?

Cardboard pg 2 Healthy Garden Series pg 2 West Ag Research Evals pg 2

Transplant or Direct Seeding pg 3

Transplanting Suggestions pg 4 Garden Journals, What to Track pg 4

Here Come the Weeds pg 5

Bock Fruit Tree Orchard pg 6 Bock Garage Sale Coming Soon pg 6

Row Covers for Rabbits pg 7

Planting Techniques pg 8

Companion Planting pg 9-11

Workdays pg 12 Garden Committee pg 12

Garden Journals

If you want to be a successful gardener - you should keep a garden journal, noting such things as soil preparation, planting, weeding, fertilizing, bloom time, date crops ripen, and growing results. Also note any problems with weeds, insects, or rainfall, and whether the harvest of each item was sufficient, too much, or not enough.

At the end of the growing season, you'll have a complete record of what you did, and this information will give you the basics for planning next year's garden. More ideas on page 4.

Patty Zehl, Communications Coordinator

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MAY 2011 THE GOOD NEIGHBOR GARDENERS

Healthy Garden Training Series

The USDA People's Garden Initiative promotes growing healthy food, people and communities. It encourages USDA employees and communities to plant gardens because we believe the simple act of planting a garden can make real and lasting change to improve food access and healthy lifestyles.

The USDA People’s Garden Initiative and Cooperative Extension Service bring you this series of training sessions on a wide variety of horticultural and garden related topics. There is no charge for registration and all sessions are open to the public. Visit this website to learn more and register:

http://www.extension.iastate.edu/broadcasts/emg/

Cardboard - Bring to the Garden

Start saving and collecting cardboard for use in pathway construction and to surround the native trees - which we will be doing during upcoming workdays. We must put cardboard beneath any woodchips we lay, or the weeds will just grow through the woodchips to reach sunlight.

Flatten it, remove tape and staples and bring it to the garden. There is a pile outside the double-door entrance at back of garden - on North side of fence. Be sure it’s secured under the wood pallet - so it doesn’t blow around cashing a trash problem.

West Ag - Research Evaluations

Flower and vegetable evaluations have long been a part of the trial gardens program. Each summer we trial hundreds of new flowers and numerous new vegetable cultivars. We receive the newest selections from growers across the United States and from some European Countries.

Please check out the links to PDFs of evaluation sheets below, to find the results of our evaluations for flowers and vegetables. You will find evaluations from 2007 and 2008 for both flowers and vegetables. In addition to the evaluations, we post our Favorite Picks for peppers, tomatoes and other various vegetables. Watch this website for new Favorites for annual flowers trialed during 2009 season.

http://www.cals.wisc.edu/westmad/garden/Evaluations.html

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Transplant or Direct Seeding?

There are advantages and disadvantages to using transplants or direct seeding in your garden. Transplants are starter plants that are at least 4-6 weeks old when you plant them, started by you or a nursery from seed in containers. Direct seeding is placing seeds directly in the soil of your garden.

Advantages of Direct Seeding:

o Direct seeding is more cost effective - a package of seeds is often much less expensive then transplants. Example: a $2.59 package of 100 seeds compared to a $2.59 pack of four transplants.

o When purchasing seed you can often find a much greater variety of cultivars than purchasing transplants.

o Quick growing crops direct seeded in the garden will quickly catch up to transplants.

o Root crops with tap roots, like carrots generally don’t transplant well and need to be direct seeded.

Advantages of Transplants:

o Transplants give higher early yields o For a shorter growing season, like we have in Wisconsin it’s better to use transplants for

vegetables that take a long time to reach maturity from seed. o If you want six different varieties of one type of vegetable,

the cost of transplants when purchasing single plants are similar to purchasing seeds.

Plants that are Usually Direct Seeded:

Beans, beets, carrots, corn, cucumbers, garlic, lettuce, muskmelons, okra, parsnips, peas, pumpkins, radishes, rutabaga, salsify, spinach, squash, turnips, watermelon Plants that Transplant Well:

Basil, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, celery, chard, chives, collards, eggplant, endive, escarole, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, mustard, okra, onions, parsley, peppers, tomatoes Then there are a handful of vegetables that aren’t usually grown from seed at all. They’re grown vegetatively. (See table on right.)

Patty Zehl, Communications Coordinator

VEGETABLE GROWN BY

Artichokes Root Divisions

Asparagus 1-Year Old Roots

Garlic/Shallots Cloves

Horseradish Root Cuttings

Onions Sets

Potatoes Seed Potatoes

Rhubarb Root Crowns

Sweet Potatoes Slips

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Transplanting Suggestions

Most vegetables are ready to set in the garden when they are 4-6 weeks old. Set only the best plants that are strong, stocky, vigorous and disease free. Tomato plants 4-5 weeks old grow and yield better than older transplants.

Avoid disturbing roots when transplanting. Moisten the soil of the transplant and remove the plant from the container before placing in the garden. Some containers such as the peat pellet may be inserted directly into the soil, resulting in a reduction in transplant shock.

Transplant when conditions are best — soon after a rain, when cloudy, or in the late afternoon. Protect plants 2-4 days after transplanting with something that provides a wind and sun barrier like an upright board, shade cloth or use hay or straw and create an artificial bowl around the transplant.

When setting the plant into the soil, do not compress the soil around the roots; gently pour water into the hole to settle the soil around the roots. After the transplanting water has dried a bit, cover the wet spot with dry soil to reduce evaporation.

Patty Zehl, Communications Coordinator

Garden Journals - What to Track

You can record as much, or as little as you want, in your garden journal. Just make sure it's a fun activity, rather than a chore. Some suggestions for the kinds of information you may want to include are:

Names of all seeds and plants used Planting dates for seeds and plants, and you garden layout Source and cost for plants and seeds, any guarantees Weather particulars such as rainfall, frost dates and results Plant characteristics, date of germination, date they emerge in spring, appearance of blooms Date and type of fertilizer or other chemicals applied, and to which plants Watering schedule Diseases, insects that you experience and what you do Date of harvest (for vegetables) or cut flowers taken Observations: what was/was not successful, ideas from other gardeners Helpful web sites, gardening books or magazines

As you garden and plant through the years, a journal such as this becomes indispensable. There is no way you can keep it all in your head, even if you think you can. Write it down, and keep the facts for the years ahead. Include pictures, seed packages and drawings. You will treasure your efforts in the future.

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Here Come the Weeds Of all the issues that gardeners have to deal with, weeds are probably the most vexing. How often do we hear gardeners confess: “the weeds got ahead of me!” Many BCG gardeners have already faced a barrage of over-wintering biennial or perennial weeds as we prepared our plots for planting. And there are millions of carry-over seeds from last year and many years past just waiting to germinate along with our garden seeds and among our transplants.

So, as the orientation handout “Weeds – What Every Gardener Needs to Know” admonishes: stay ahead of them by starting early in the season! Before planting, it’s important to remove the entire plant structure (tops, roots, rhizomes, etc.) of all weeds that over-wintered in your plot. If you hold off on mulching until the soil warms up enough to favor your garden seeds and plants, you’ll have to cope with some weeds emerging in and between your rows. But these can be easily controlled by hand weeding in the rows and by using a small hoe (I prefer a child’s hoe) to lightly rake/chop them out between the rows. Once the soil temperature

rises to optional levels (usually by early June), it’s time to apply the marsh hay between the rows (3-4 inches thick) and rely on hand weeding to pull out those pesky weeds that manage to poke through the mulch or in the rows. Don’t forget the weeds along the borders of your plots where they take advantage of the thinner mulch and exposed soil.

If you have questions about weed identification or weeding practices, please don’t hesitate to consult your neighbors with clean plots. I try to visit my plot several times a week, usually early afternoons or early evenings, and would be happy to answer questions about weeds and weeding or other gardening issues such as watering, insects, and diseases. If I don’t have adequate answers, I’ll try to help you find them.

Emil Haney, Education Coordinator

Garden Tip:

Do you have weeds in your garden? If the answer is yes, don’t think of all of them as the enemy and put them in the compost bins as some gardeners have done. Attached to these weeds are clumps of soil that your garden needs, and valuable organic matter - great ingredients for healthy soil.

Use a fork or spade and turn the weeds over. Shake the soil loose and lay your weeds on an empty section of your garden - allowing them to dry out in the sun. When you know the weeds are dead use them as mulch, eventually they will decompose and improve your garden soil. Carry out and discard weeds with seed heads, or invasive plants.

Patty Zehl, Communication Coordinator

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Bock Fruit Tree Orchard During the 2010 gardening season, the Bock Community Garden received 28 fruit trees from Jung’s Nursery as one of several Madison area winners in a competition sponsored by Edy’s Fruit Bars. Planted in the new orchard – located along the northern and eastern sides of the garden – are 16 apple trees, 4 pear trees, 4 cherry trees, and 4 peach trees.

The 2011 gardening season will be the first full growing season for the trees after planting. During this season watering, pruning and observation for disease will be critical for the future health and production of the trees. With careful attention, the orchard should be producing fruit within 3-5 years. A drip irrigation system was installed at the same time that the orchard was planted. Watering by drip irrigation assures that the trees will receive deep watering that enables strong root systems to form. It is imperative that gardeners, even with the best intentions, do not water the fruit trees. Volunteers will make sure the trees remain watered and healthy

throughout the growing season.

Priorities for the 2011 growing season will include pruning the trees to assure healthy branches, and the removal of any fruit blossoms. Removing potential fruit early on in the tree’s life cycle ensures stronger, healthier trees in the future.

With much care and attention, the fruit trees will provide bountiful harvests for Bock gardeners for years to come.

Kurt Zimmerman, Native Area and Orchard Coordinator

Bock Garage Sale - Coming Soon

What: Items are needed to sell at our garage sale, including bakery items. When: Sometime in June - the date has not been set yet. Where: Somewhere in Middleton - we’re still working out the details. Why: to raise money for Bock garden operating expenses. Who: Lisa Garsee, the Bock Fundraising Coordinator

needs your help. Contact her with items to donate, and if you can help during the sale. Contact her at: [email protected], 228-5133

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Row Covers for Rabbits Floating Row Covers are lightweight blankets made from spunbonded polyester or polypropylene. There are two basic types of Floating Row Covers: 1. Frost protection 2. Insect barrier

If the desire is to extend the growing season by protecting crops from low temperatures, be sure to purchase the frost protection type. Floating Row Covers generally come in rolls 6 to 30+ feet wide to nearly any length desired. Typical lengths range from 25-50 feet to over 2,000 feet.

To protect vegetable and fruit crops planted in rows or narrow beds from rabbits cover the newly sprouted seedlings with either typed of floating row cover, allowing air, light and rain onto the plants, but blocking rabbit access.

Maintain the protective cover until the young seedlings have passed their most tender and delicious stage and become less attractive to rabbits. When they flower, be sure to remove the fleece material so pollinating insects can reach them. In the case of berries, lettuce and other salad greens, remove the cover only when necessary for harvesting.

Advantages Using Floating Row Covers 1. Frost protection, +2-4 F 2. Wind protection for plant seedlings 3. Insect protection 4. Rabbit protection 5. Transmits light (85% average), water, and air 6. May be reused 2 to 3 years if gently used

Disadvantages Using Floating Row Covers 1. Weeding under covering requires lifting of row cover 2. Pollination of crops is prevented unless the row cover is periodically folded back to expose flowering plants 3. There is some potential for plant abrasion on sensitive plants, such as tomato and pepper seedlings.

Row Cover Installation Row covers can be anchored by piling loose soil, mulch, rocks or bricks over the edges or by using plastic or metal staples.

The plant bed to be covered should be fertilized and planted prior to installation of the row cover. When properly installed, the fabric should be loose on the top to allow for plant growth.

Management of Row Covers Plants can be watered directly through the row cover material. Add another 2 to 4°F of extra frost protection by using two layers. Do not use more than two layers of row cover - it will reduce light transmission an additional 10 to 12 percent.

Weeds will grow very well in the microclimate created under the row cover .To weed the covered plant beds, lift the row cover, pull weeds and reinstall. To minimize the need to weed, mulch can be used under the row cover.

As the plants grow, the row cover will be lifted up, providing protection for the plants. The row cover can be left on until the plants pull the slack out of the row cover. At this point, the row cover must be removed to enhance plant growth.

Remove the row cover when dry and roll it up, paying attention not to damage it and store in dry location free of rodents for another season.

Recommended Garden Plants The following plants will perform well for plant protection and season extension: carrots, chard, cucumber, green beans, lettuce, pumpkin, summer squash, and winter squash. Works great to protect young green beans from rabbits.

Source: USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service: httphttp://plant-materials.nrcs.usda.gov/news/features/communitygardens.html

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Planting Techniques Plan to use all the space in your garden. Through the following planting techniques you can make maximum use of the space you have.

Vertical Cropping - Train veggies like pole beans,

peas, cucumbers, squash and gourds to some type of support to save space in the garden. Fences, poles, wire cages, trellises can be used for support.

Succession Planting - This technique involves

growing a crop like lettuce in the spring and replacing it when the warm weather hits with a crop like beans. In the late summer, you can reverse the process and replace the beans with a cool season crop like lettuce or radishes.

Intercropping - Is the growing technique of

planting fast growing vegetables among slow growing vegetables. An example of this technique would be planting radishes, lettuce or green onions among caged tomato plants.

Plant Placement - Arrange crops so planting,

cultivating, pest control, and harvesting can be done with the least effort. Plant perennial crops, such as rhubarb, asparagus, strawberries, and bush fruits along one side of the garden. These crops stay in the same location for several years and should be placed where they will not be in the way or be damaged at soil preparation time. Whenever possible, plant tall crops to the north of lower growing crops to avoid shading.

Plant Rotation—Many disease organisms are soil-

borne and can infest a vegetable yearly when the same crop is planted in the same location. Plants in the same botanical family often are susceptible to

the same diseases. For example, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and potatoes belong to the Solanaceae family and all are susceptible to early blight. Rotating vegetable placement in the garden helps to control plant diseases. Rotation also helps curb insect infestations. Some insects overwinter in the soil and begin feeding when their specific host is present. If a crop is moved to a different location in the garden, the insect population may decrease.

Interval Planting - To provide fresh vegetables over

a long period of time, plant one vegetable every 10-14 days. This practice works particularly well for crops such as beans, sweet corn and peas, which have a short "peak" period of quality.

Other Garden Tips

Don't plant too much of any one crop at one time, especially those crops which must be eaten fresh, like radish, and cannot be stored.

Run rows north and south, when possible so that exposure to sunlight is even for all rows.

Allow space between rows for convenient cultivation with the type of tool you plan to use.

Use stakes, string and a yardstick to lay off straight rows. Place a garden label at the head of each row; include the crop, variety and planting date on label.

Plant sweet corn in blocks rather than in single rows so that much pollen is present in the air around the corn stalks. This practice should produce better pollination and ear fill-out.

Plant two or more varieties having different maturity dates to prolong the season for any one crop. While genetic crossing may occur, this is a problem only in sweet corn where "xenia" effects show up on the ears (example: yellow kernels mixed with white ones)

Source: University of Florida & Iowa State http://jefferson.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/veg_garden_tips.shtml http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/PM814.pdf

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Companion Planting

Many people think of organic gardening as growing without the use of pesticides or herbicides. This is obviously a fundamental part of organics however; organic gardening is composed of numerous aspects that make up a whole interconnected system. This system relies upon insects, birds, shade, sun, and all other aspects of a living and working community. By growing numerous types of crops you create habitats for beneficial insects or animals, deter problem pests, and enrich your soil to create a living ecosystem of beneficial bacteria and helpful fungi.

One method used by some organic gardeners is companion planting. There is no scientific evidence that companion planting works, but many gardeners have sworn by it for centuries. Companion planting is the practice of interplanting vegetables, herbs, and flowers in order to attract beneficial insects or to camouflage pest-prone crops.

The most dependable functions of companion plants include: o Hiding or masking a crop from pests, o Producing odors that deter or confuse

pests, o Providing trap crops which draw pest

insects away from other plants, o Acting as nurse plants that provide

breeding grounds for beneficial insects, o Providing food to sustain beneficial

insects as they search out their prey, o Creating a habitat for favorable creatures.

Some common companion planting ideas include:

o Plant marigolds in garden to repel pests. o Plant flowers in the Aster family

(sunflower, purple coneflower, black-eyed susan) to attract beneficial insects such as lady beetles, spined soldier bugs, assassin bugs, and predatory wasps.

o Plant beans and potatoes together to repel Colorado potato beetles and Mexican bean beetles.

o Plant onions to repel many insects and potentially, wildlife.

Below is a partial list of companion crops from "Plant by Plant Guide" in Rodale's Successful Organic Gardening Companion Planting:

Plant Companion(s) and Effects Asparagus Tomatoes, parsley, basil

Basil Tomatoes (improves growth & flavor); said to dislike rue; repels flies & mosquitoes

Bean Potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, cauliflower, cabbage, summer savory, most other veggies & herbs

Bean (bush)

Sunflowers (beans like partial shade, unless you live up north, sunflowers attract birds & bees for pollination), cucumbers (combination of heavy and light feeders), potatoes, corn, celery, summer savory

Bee Balm Tomatoes (improves growth & flavor). Beet Onions, kohlrabi

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Borage Tomatoes (attracts bees, deters tomato worm, improves growth & flavor), squash, strawberries

Cabbage Family (broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi)

Potatoes, celery, dill, chamomile, sage, thyme, mint, pennyroyal, rosemary, lavender, beets, onions; aromatic plants deter cabbage worms

Caraway Loosens soil; plant here and there

Carrot Peas, lettuce, chives, onions, leeks, rosemary, sage, tomatoes

Catnip Plant in borders; protects against flea beetles Celery Leeks, tomatoes, bush beans, cauliflower, cabbage Chamomile Cabbage, onions Chervil Radishes (improves growth & flavor).

Chive Carrots; plant around base of fruit trees to discourage insects from climbing trunk

Corn Potatoes, peas, beans, cucumbers, pumpkin, squash Cucumber Beans, corn, peas, radishes, sunflowers Dead Nettle Potatoes (deters potato bugs) Dill Cabbage (improves growth & health), carrots Eggplant Beans Fennel Most plants are supposed to dislike it. Flax Carrots, potatoes

Garlic Roses & raspberries (deters Japanese beetle); with herbs to enhance their production of essential oils; plant liberally throughout garden to deter pests

Horseradish Potatoes (deters potato beetle); around plum trees to discourage curculios

Hyssop Cabbage (deters cabbage moths), grapes; keep away from radishes

Lamb's Quarters Nutritious edible weeds; allow to grow in modest amounts in the corn

Leek Onions, celery, carrots Lemon Balm Here and there in the garden

Marigold The workhorse of pest deterrents; keeps soil free of nematodes; discourages many insects; plant freely throughout the garden.

Marjoram Here and there in the garden Mint Cabbage family; tomatoes; deters cabbage moth

Nasturtium Tomatoes, radish, cabbage, cucumbers; plant under fruit trees; deters aphids & pests of curcurbits

Onion Beets, strawberries, tomato, lettuce (protects against slugs), beans (protects against ants), summer savory

Parsley Tomato, asparagus

Pea Squash (when squash follows peas up trellis), plus grows well with almost any vegetable; adds nitrogen to the soil

Petunia Protects beans; beneficial throughout garden

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Potato Horseradish, beans, corn, cabbage, marigold, limas, eggplant (as a trap crop for potato beetle)

Pot Marigold Helps tomato, but plant throughout garden as deterrent to asparagus beetle, tomato worm & many other garden pests

Pumpkin Corn

Radish Peas, nasturtium, lettuce, cucumbers; a general aid in repelling insects

Rosemary Carrots, beans, cabbage, sage; deters cabbage moth, bean beetles & carrot fly

Rue Roses & raspberries; deters Japanese beetle; keep away from basil

Sage Rosemary, carrots, cabbage, peas, beans; deters some insects

Soybean Grows with anything; helps everything Spinach Strawberries Squash Nasturtium, corn Strawberry Bush beans, spinach, borage, lettuce (as a border) Summer Savory Beans, onions; deters bean beetles Sunflower Cucumber

Tansy Plant under fruit trees; deters pests of roses & raspberries; deters flying insects, also Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs; deters ants

Tarragon Good throughout garden Thyme Here and there in garden; deters cabbage worm

Tomato Chives, onion, parsley, asparagus, marigold, nasturtium, carrot, limas

Valerian Good anywhere in garden Wormwood As a border, keeps animals from the garden

Yarrow Plant along borders, near paths, near aromatic herbs; enhances essential oil production of herbs

Resource: The Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, J.I. Rodale (editor) Sources: Washington State University, Clark County Extension

http://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/gm_tips/CompanionPlant.html Seeds of Change:

http://www.seedsofchange.com/enewsletter/issue_55/companion_planting.aspx

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Workdays

Saturday June 4, 10am-noon

Michael Fischer

Jennifer Magee

Mike Golden Nancy Korn

Ruth Pedersen

Wednesday May 18, 6-8pm

Katy Bixby Mark Felten Liz Freitick Don Gibbard Mike Golden Nancy Korn

Don Gibbard Dale Klubertanz Donna Leet Katy Bixby Donna Erickson

Workday Leader is Patty Zehl

Workday Leader is Emil Haney

Donna Leet Jennifer Magee Beth Misco Robert Moldenhauer Greg Paveck

Garden Committee Voting Committee:

Garden Coordinator - Bill Bogenhagen, [email protected], 836-7906 Communications Coordinator - Patty Zehl, [email protected], 233-1074 Supporting: Koren Schemmel Garden Registrar/Treasurer - Jane Prejean, [email protected], 831-0999 Grounds Coordinator - Brad Sherman, [email protected], 215-9761 Historical & Records Coordinator - Wava Haney, [email protected], 827-5419 Rules Coordinator - Cathy Arndt, [email protected], 239-0590

Ancillary Committee:

Children’s Garden Co-Coordinators - Julie Kessel, [email protected], 233-1592 Barbara Gallay, [email protected], 237-1744 Supporting - Brad Sherman Education Coordinator - Emil Haney, [email protected], 827-5419 Fundraising Coordinator - Lisa Garsee, [email protected], 228-5133 Supporting - Bill Bogenhagen Native Area & Orchard - Kurt Zimmerman, [email protected], 219-6425 Supporting: Emil Haney Plant-a-Row for the Hungry - Katerina Stephan, [email protected] Supporting: Cathy Arndt Supporting: Jane Prejean Social and Outreach - Koran Schemmel, [email protected], 234-0913

Saturday June 11, 10am-noon Children’s Garden, no Workday Leader

Janet Rother-Harris

Ed Greiner

Luke Greiner Jessica Greiner

Who do you contact if: o You need to reschedule o You think you are scheduled for

one of these dates, but don’t see your name

Cathy Arndt, the Rules Coordinator - her contact information is in the list to the right