Colorado Snow Climbs and Lessons from the Backcountry HAMS 2013
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Transcript of Colorado Snow Climbs and Lessons from the Backcountry HAMS 2013
Colorado Snow Climbsand Lessons from the
Backcountry
High Altitude Mountaineering School (HAMS)
Seminar Series
Purpose
- Encourage you to enjoy superb snow climbs that abound in our backyard playground.
- Practice, improve, and learn new alpine skills.- Target more challenging routes in preparation for
climbing big mountains.- Share lessons learned from my own climbs- Discuss risk management in Colorado’s
backcountry
HAMS skills practiced in CO backcountryapply to high peaks:
- Trip planning- Route-finding- Winter camping- Crampon technique- Ice axe technique- Self arrest- Roped travel, running belays- Clothing management and testing- Nutrition, hydration and systems- Technical gear
Finding Colorado snow climbs
- Online resources, e.g. summitpost.com trip reports, 14ers.com, Mountain Project
- CMC.org trip schedule- Books, e.g. Cooper’s Colorado Snow Climbs- Friends, etc.
Maroon Bells, Bellcord Couloir
Mt. Meeker,Dreamweaver Couloir
- Mixed climbing
Lessons learned
- Training for Mt.
Rainier
- June 26th, 2010
- South aspect- Late start
Flattop Mtn,Dragon’s Tail Couloir
- Carefully assess snow conditions and avalanche risk
- Beware summit fever
- Establish your personal risk threshold
- Take WFA- Be conservative if
potential C-spine injury
Lessons learned
- April 7th, 2012
- Training for Denali
Flattop Mtn,Dragon’s Tail Couloir
- Thank BMS for requiring alpine starts
Arapahoe Peak, Skywalker Couloir
Lessons learned
Ascending St. Mary’s Glacier
James Peak , Superstar Couloir
Superstar Couloiron James Peak
- Carefully and continuously assess snow conditions and avalanche risk
Lessons learned
- Retreat when necessary!
Lessons learned
Superstar Couloiron James Peak
“Plan B” Couloirnear James Peak
- Live and climb another day --
maybe even today!
Lessons learned
Lessons learned- Climbing is only
half the fun!
James Peak,Superstar Couloir (two weeks later)
- Slope angle difficult to judge head-on
- You can do it! (maybe) You won’t know until you try it.
- Work your way up (so to speak).
- Assess risk and protect as needed.
- Bring a compass or GPS!
Lessons learned
Lessons learned- Training- Explore!
Pacific Peak, North CouloirPacific Peak, North Couloir
Lessons learned- Practice
mountaineering skills
- White helmets, scruffy beards, and black Julbo Explorer glacier glasses are hot!
Lessons learned
- Topping out 100’ shy of 14k’ is a beautiful thing!
Lessons learned
Thatchtop Mtn NW Gully
- Dealing with cold
Lessons learned
- Don’t try this at home!
- Learn from an experienced leader
Lessons learned
Thatchtop – Powell Icefield
Thatchotop – Powell Icefield
- Snow / ice climbing is not just a Spring sport!
Lessons learned
- Meet fellow climbers in HAMS!
- Get out and climb!- Have fun!
The Citadel, Snoopy Couloir
Lessons learned
The Possibilities are Endless!
- Angel of Shavano- Lost Rat Couloir on Grays Pk- Notchtop Couloir on Notchtop Mtn- Dead Dog Couloir on Torreys Pk- Cristo Couloir, North Couloir on Quandary Pk- Emperor Couloir on Torreys Pk- Cross Couloir on Mt of the Holy Cross- Flying Dutchman on Mt Meeker- Martha’s Couloir on Mt Lady Washington- Y Couloir on Ypsilon Mtn
Upper Crater Lake, IPW June 2013
- Leader must consider varying levels of experience
- Be cognizant of changing snow conditions
- Be wary of large cornices at the top of your climb
Lessons learned
Mt. Evans, Crystal Couloir June 2013
- Acclimatization matters!
Lessons learned
Flattop Mtn, Ptarmigan Finger Couloir June 2013
Flattop Mtn Apr 2007
Mt. of the Holy CrossJune 2013
- Practice helps stretchyour comfort zone.
- High camps are great for gettingaway from people and mosquitos!
Lessons learned
Long’s Peak, Notch CouloirJune 2013
- Use a gear checklist!- Weather risk in remote
high, alpine environment
Lessons learned
Get out and climb!- Deal with adverse and changing weather- Identify safe routes- Practice self arrest- Dig snow pits- Practice running belays, setting pro- Learn your nutrition, hydration, electrolyte,
and recovery needs- Acclimatize (to cold, as well as elevation)- Get fit
- Have FUN!
- Push your limits carefully.- Gain experience managing
risk.- Build your confidence to climb
more challenging routes.- Have fun!
Lessons learned in the Colorado Backcountry