Coastal Process Chapter 9:. Wave Dynamics Wave length (L)= Distance between crests, Wave height (H)...
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Transcript of Coastal Process Chapter 9:. Wave Dynamics Wave length (L)= Distance between crests, Wave height (H)...
![Page 1: Coastal Process Chapter 9:. Wave Dynamics Wave length (L)= Distance between crests, Wave height (H) = Vertical distance between the crest and the trough.](https://reader035.fdocuments.net/reader035/viewer/2022062407/56649e3b5503460f94b2d6c4/html5/thumbnails/1.jpg)
Coastal ProcessCoastal Process
Chapter 9:
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Wave DynamicsWave DynamicsWave DynamicsWave Dynamics
• Wave length (L)= Distance between crests, • Wave height (H) = Vertical distance between the crest and the
trough • Wave base = depth below which waves have no effect = ½ *
wave length
Period (T)= Time taken for two successive waves to pass a pointVelocity (V) = L/T
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• Breakers form when the sea-bottom is at a depth less than the wave base
• Surf Zone = Zone along which breaking waves collapse
• Swash and backwash = up and down movement of water along the shore line
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Sydney, Australia
Notice the surf zone and also the rip currents
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Sea-stacks
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BeachBeach
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Offshore = Farthest out, beyond surf zone
Foreshore = surf zone, tidal flat and swash zone
Backshore = Inwards from Foreshore upto the coastal dunes
Berm
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Virginia Keys
What is the direction of the Longshore Current?
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• Commenced 1970 s• $62 million over 10 years, 160 K m3 of sand• 18 million m3 of sand dredged and pumped• 200 m wide beach by 1980s
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Berm
Swash Zone
Miami Beach
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Nature of Coast LineNature of Coast Line
• Active Margin– Western Coast of USA– Steep Continental Shelf– Narrow beach– Rocky cliffs
• Passive Margin– East Coast– Wide, gentle beach, sandy offshore islands– Broad Continental Shelf
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Coastal Hazards
• Sea Level Rise
• Hurricanes, Storm surge
• Recognition of coastal hazards
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Coastal Erosion
• Human modification has accelarated erosion
• Coastal Engineering structures e.g., sea walls
• Damming of rivers
• Subsidence due to withdrawal of groundwater, oil etc
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Spit
Depositional Landforms:•Spits = narrow extension of beach formed by longshore current•Barrier Island = sandy offshore islands parallel to the shoreline
Do you know this place?
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Safety concerns
• High elevation (>5 m) above normal high tide• Well developed beach dunes between the site
and the water-line• Overall water level – maximum storm-surge
limit• Emergent or Submergent coast?• Rate of coastal erosion (from USGS and county
maps)
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