Coastal Numerical Modelling ASR
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Transcript of Coastal Numerical Modelling ASR
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MODELS AND
PHYSICAL SYSTEMS
Environments
Calibration / Validation
Dr Kerry Black
ASR Ltd
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Storm surge
Tsunamis
Tidal flows
Eddies
Shelf waves
Up/downwelling
Wind-driven flows
Waves
Estuarine salinity intrusion
Water quality
Oil spills
Effluent dispersion
Ocean outfalls
River plumes
Thermal discharges
Larval transport
Seabed erosion/accretion
Bank/delta formation
Sand bar migration
Dredging and spoil disposal
Physical disturbance of ecosystems
Wave climate hindcasts
Coastal hazards
Foreshore impacts
Coastal protection
Coastal structures and reclamations
Longshore sediment transportPorts and marinas
Harbour seiching
3-dimensional flows,
dispersal, short-wave
and ocean/atmosphere
heat transfer model.
Lagrangian 3-dimensional dispersal
model for transport of dissolved,
passive and active material such as
larvae, effluent, bacteria or sediment.
WAM Deep-water spectral wave generation/propagation
SWAN coastal-scale spectral wave generation and propagation
WGEN3DD estuary wave climate
2DBEACH beach circulation and sediment transport
GENIUS sedimentation around coastal structures
RCPWAVE refraction/diffraction of monochromatic waves
WBEND refraction of monochromatic and spectral waves
3DD
POL3DD
WAVE MODELS
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Environments
Models are applied to a broad range of
physical environments.
They operate over a range of spatial and
temporal scales.
The following slides present a sequence ofcommon environments where models are
being regularly used and calibrated.
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Oceans
Ocean-scale wave generation modelling forweather and scientific / public use
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Continental shelf
Upwelling brings nutrients to the coast
Hot
surfacewater
Coldupwelled
water
Auckland
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Gulfs
Hauraki Gulf is a prime fisheries location
Ocean
water levels
lead the
levels in the
inner Gulf
Incoming
flood tide
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Inner shelf
The site for the upcoming AmericasCup yacht race
Waitemata Harbour
Fastcurrents in
the narrow
channelscontrast
with the
shelteredlees of
headlands
and islands
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Estuaries
A large inter-tidal estuary disperses anddilutes effluent from an outfall
Inter-tidal sand
banks
Maximum
effluent
concentrations
around the
outfall dilutedue to
advection and
mixing
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Headlands
Larvae disperse from a marine park
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Australias Great Barrier
Reef
Currents disperselarvae around reefs and
reef groups
B h
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Beaches
A dynamic ocean beach, New ZealandWaves approach the
beach at an angle
Sand
ridge Sand bar
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Sea bed
Predicted micro-scale suspension overripples
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Field programmesField measurements underpin the
development, refinement and application
of numerical models.
For comprehensive models, large fieldprogrammes are needed to
simultaneously measure the complete
range of physical processes.
Field measurements require many
different instruments and techniques.
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Comprehensive field programmes define
the nature of sites to be modelled
Poverty Bay portre-development
study used 3-
dimensional
stratified
temperature and
salinity models
calibrated againstmeasurements
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Hauraki Gulf NOSEX programme
Measurements of
currents, tides,waves,
temperatures and
sedimenttransport over
several months
P t D d S il Di l St d
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Port Dredge Spoil Disposal Study
Sediment traps, wave/current meters,
artificial fluorescent tracer, bathymetry
surveys and side-scan sonar
Waves, currents and
sediment traps
Sediment traps
only
Waves and
sediment traps
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Port
Fluorescent tracers track the movement of dredge
spoil along the high-energy west coast of NZ.
Tracer sampling sites and release points
Tracer release sites
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ALICE
A bottom-mounted
instrumented frame
records currents,
waves, suspendedsediment
concentration,
bedforms andcollects water
samples
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An S4current
meter
retrievedby a
diver
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Cooks Beach
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Sea sled with Acoustic
Backscatter Sensors
and vertical profilermeasure sediment
concentration at high
resolution
Centre of Excellenceautomated water
samplers deployed by
ETS Ltd in UK to assess
impacts of dredge spoildumping
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Sea Bed
Rudolph
Beach sled records waves, currents,
turbulence, and suspended sediment
concentration while observing with shore-linked video.
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Sea bed
RUDOLPH
Beach sled
towed intoposition.
S b d
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Sea bed
High-resolution suspended sedimentconcentrations within millimetres of the sea bed
Sand is suspended by waves
Wave orbital currents
Sea Bed
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Sea Bed
IMAGENEX
Rotary scanning
sonar measuresbedforms in situ.
Concentric rings
are 1 m apart and
centred on ALICE
Bedform measurements during a tropical cyclone
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Models develop over decades
This photograph shows waves being recorded at AlaMoana in Hawaii in the early 70s by J.K.K. Look
Laboratory. The data was used for development of the
numerical wave model 2DBeach.
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Calibration / Validation
Ensures that the model is
accurate
Guides model development and
refinement
Ensures that model constants are
correct for each location modelled
Oceans
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500 km
10 20 30 40 50
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
i
j
Wave height
Wave direction
Wave period
Oceans
Ocean wave models are
calibrated against long-term wave measurements
Continental shelf
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Coastal upwelling model is compared to sea
surface temperatures viewed from space
Satellite imageModel
Gulfs
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Tidal models are calibrated against
measured long-term tides
Tidal phase Tidal amplitude
Field
sites
Inner shelf
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Inner shelf
Predicted wind and shelf currents arecompared to measurements
Inner shelf
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Inner shelf
The prediction of bedform geometryon the inner continental shelf is
confirmed against observations
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 00
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
2
(B)
2 m, 9 s wave
3 m, 9 s wave
4 m, 9 s wave
2 m, 12 s wave
3 m, 12 s wave
4 m, 12 s wave
East Gippsland data
Coastal embayments
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y
3-dimensional baroclinic models are compared tocurrents, temperatures, and many other physical
variables
Currents
Temperatures
Coastal embayments
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y
Models are compared to measured waves.
Wave advance
Wave height and direction
Wave advance
Coastal embayments
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0
0.05
0.1
0.15
0.2
0.25
0.3
0.35
0.4
0 0.05 0.1 0.15
ErrorValu
e
CF
Value
Coastal embayments
Errors are minimised systematically by
successive adjustment of model constants
Estuaries
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Flo
wd
irecti
on
Plume models
are compared to
dye releases
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Ports
Wave excitation models
of a port are compared to
measured spectra of seasurface conditions
Sea bed
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Micro-scale sediment transport models are
compared to high-resolution data, at 10 Hz within
10 mm of the seabed
Sedimen
tconcentr
ations
Physical model
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Reef
Physical model
Mathematical model
Beaches
Mathematical models are sometimes
compared to laboratory physical models
Beaches
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Micro-scale suspension phenomena lead tomeasured shoreline evolution. Here, measured
profiles are compared to model predictions
0 5 1 0 1 5 2 0 -0 .0 6
-0 .0 4
-0 .0 2
0
0 .0 2
0 .0 4
0 .0 6
0 .0 8
Accretion
(m)
X (m )
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Numerical models provide :
confident predictions ofnatural processes.
spatial and temporal
resolution improvement
Calibration ensures that the
model is accurate
Storm surge
3DD
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Tsunamis
Tidal flows
Eddies
Shelf waves
Up/downwelling
Wind-driven flows
Waves
Estuarine salinity intrusion
Water quality
Oil spills
Effluent dispersion
Ocean outfalls
River plumes
Thermal discharges
Larval transport
Seabed erosion/accretion
Bank/delta formation
Sand bar migration
Dredging and spoil disposal
Physical disturbance of ecosystems
Wave climate hindcasts
Coastal hazards
Foreshore impacts
Coastal protection
Coastal structures and reclamations
Longshore sediment transport
Ports and marinas
Harbour seiching
3-dimensional flows,
dispersal, short-wave
and ocean/atmosphere
heat transfer model.
Lagrangian 3-dimensional dispersal
model for transport of dissolved,
passive and active material such as
larvae, effluent, bacteria or sediment.
WAM Deep-water spectral wave generation/propagation
SWAN coastal-scale spectral wave generation and propagation
WGEN3DD estuary wave climate
2DBEACH beach circulation and sediment transport
GENIUS sedimentation around coastal structures
RCPWAVE refraction/diffraction of monochromatic waves
WBEND refraction of monochromatic and spectral waves
3DD
POL3DD
WAVE MODELS
Thanks to the Centre of Excellence
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Thanks to the Centre of Excellence
in Coastal Oceanography and Marine Geology
and
John Oldman
for assisting with the display preparation and
Richard GormanTerry Hume
James Hutt
Judith BoglePeter McComb
for providing images.
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For enquiries contact:
Prof Kerry Black
ASR LtdPO Box 67, Raglan, New Zealand