December 2014Climb

Meet Lily Conrad!

Christmas Wish List Guide Inside

Yosemite Photo Essay p. 11

Editor Leah Jessen did some bouldering at Governor’s Dodge State Park in Wisconsin recently.

Table of ContentsTable of Contents..................................1,2

Letter to the Reader..............................3,4

Cover Story............................5,6,7,8,9,10

Photo Essay ..............11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24

Infographic.........................................25,26

2

Letter to

the Reader

Hello fellow climbers,

As December comes around, we are all starting to plan out what next year holds in our climbing future. I hope this edition of Climb Away will inspire you to enjoy your sport, project some new routes, and explore the world around you.

As you read through the stories and flip through the photos, envision yourself within the pages. Whether you are just starting out in your first few months as a gym climber or are on your way to climb the big walls at Yosemite National Park, these stories should allow you to gain a deeper understanding for climbing.

If you’re looking for a few items to add to your Christmas list, get out our “Climber’s Christmas Wishlist.” You’ll be sure to find a gift worthy item.

As we move through the remainder of 2014, take some time to reflect upon this past year. What have you big accomplishments been? Have there been season or struggles or seasons of joy? Take a moment to breathe and let the memories of 2014 settle in.

As I look back over this past year, I can note progress made in my climbing journey. I worked through a finger injury that led me to learn to climb without using my pointer finger for a few months. (Turns out my middle finger got pretty strong because of the whole ordeal.) I stepped over the threshold from climbing 5.11s to 5.12s near the beginning of the year. I got to experience outdoor climbing in Arkansas, Illinois, Iowa, Colorado, Minnesota, and Wisconsin this past year.

I am excited for the future climbing in my life and excited to see where all of you go as well.

Namaste.

Leah

3

I got to enjoy a long weekend of climbing with friends at Cleercreak Canyon in Colorado this fall.

all about

by Leah Jessen

Lily

Seventeen-year-old Lily Conrad climbs an indoor rock wall at the

University of Northern Iowa.

CEDAR FALLS, IOWA I can remember watching the Olympic Games as a small child. My favorite sport to watch was gymnastics. Since I was a gymnast growing up I am sure my fascination came from my love of the sport. While there are many Olympic sports between the winter and summer Olympics, not all activities make the final list of competition events. In 2013 the International Olympic Committee chose which sports to put on the 2020 Olympic Games list. The Olympic Committee now formally recognizes the International Federation of Sport Climbing, so climbing was one of the possibilities for new sports to be added to the list. After the final decisions were made climbing was not chosen as one of the sports for the 2020 games. Still, many people around the world have tak-en up an interest in this sport. One local girl has shown an interest in the sport of rock climbing.

Lily Conrad, 17, balances her time between school, activities, and work. Recently, one of her artwork pieces for a class was put on display at a local business, Sol Yoga. With her bubbly personality and bright smile, Conrad has a rare perspective on life. Conrad was born in Dubuque, Iowa. At the age of three, she moved with her parents to Saudi Arabia. Four years ago her family moved to Cedar Falls. Already having grown up in two countries, Conrad has experienced parts of the world that most 17-year-olds will never get to.

Conrad’s days include going to school as a senior at Cedar Falls High School, working at La Calle on College Hill, and rock climbing. Iowa may not be known for large mountains and superb rock climbing, but this state has its share of recreational facilities and outdoor climb-ing locations to give locals the opportu-

“Throughout my childhood he (Lily’s cousin) built a boulder wall in his basement and I saw him climbing doorways, I think some of that rubbed off on me.”

7 Lily puts on her shoes to get ready to climb.

nity to enjoy and participate in the sport of rock climbing. The University of Northern Iowa, Iowa State, University of Iowa, and other colleges all have indoor climbing walls. The largest indoor climbing location in Iowa is Climb Iowa in Grimes. Outside climbing locations include Backbone State Park in Dundee and Pictured Rocks in Monticello. Those with an adventuresome spirit can also try climbing the Ice Silo right in Cedar Falls.

I first met Conrad last school year while I was working at the indoor climbing wall at the Wellness and Recreation Center on the University of Northern Iowa’s campus. Conrad started indoor climbing at UNI last January. On certain days she can be seen climbing up the 38.5 foot tall wall. The indoor climbing wall at UNI offers 11 top ropes and a small bouldering wall. Climb-ing up the “big” wall involves the use of a rope while bouldering uses no ropes on a shorter wall (at a height that is safe to fall

from). The wall is open Monday-Thursday 4 pm – 10 pm, Friday 4 pm- 8pm, Satur-day 1 pm- 5 pm, and Sunday 7 pm- 10 pm during the school year.

Rock climbing takes lots of dedication, hard work, strength, and balance. I met up with Conrad to take some pictures of her down at the wall. She showed up wear-ing her purple “UNI Climbing” shirt and a pack with her climbing gear. (I do not know for sure, but my guess is that she rode her “sunshine yellow” bike that she spray-painted herself to the WRC.) Climb-ing gear includes a harness, shoes, helmet, and chalk (to help with sweaty hands). The rock wall at UNI provides gear to be used, but many “regulars” prefer to buy their own items.

While getting some pictures of her climbing, we chatted and tried to get the best photos we could without getting in the way of other climbers at the wall. We made

“Throughout my childhood he (Lily’s cousin) built a boulder wall in his basement and I saw him climbing doorways, I think some of that rubbed off on me.”

8Lily puts on her shoes to get ready to climb.

(Above)Lily does pullups on the hangboard at the Wellness and Recreation Center

(Above) Lily climbs the boulder-ing wall at UNI.

(Right) Lily climbs he 38.5 fot tall wall at UNI.

9

sure she had her helmet on since one of UNI’s policies is that those under the age of 18 must wear a helmet while climbing. Conrad enjoys the physical and mental challenges that come along with climbing. Conrad says she enjoys the challenges, “that you face at the bottom of the rock then feeling those joys take flight when you top out” at the end of a climb.”

Recently, Conrad went with a group of UNI climbers to compete at Climb Iowa. “Boulder Harvest,” an annual red-point format bouldering competition, was held October 11, 2014. Conrad competed in the youth division against climbers her age. Conrad noted of the day, “I think consider-ing it was my first comp it was a success. I had seriously only been bouldering for a few months earlier and still lacked a lot of skill and experience. However, it was definitely a day well spent.”

While Conrad may be new to the sport of bouldering, she got her first taste of rock climbing at the age of 5 when her cousin took her to some French crags. (Crag: climbing lingo for the place where you climb) This cousin was her gateway into climbing. “Throughout my childhood he built a boulder wall in his basement and I saw him climbing doorways, I think some of that rubbed off on me.” More recently she has done some outdoor climbing at Devil’s Lake in Wisconsin.

She plans to continue climbing and competing for the fun of it. Next year she will be attending UNI. She hopes that she will be able to work at the rock wall once she is in college. While Conrad counts on climbing for many years, this is not the only sport she pursues. She likes to slackline, ice climb, snowboard, ski, surf, and play soccer. “Personally, I feel the best when I am physically active.”

I am sure that Lily Conrad has a bright future in store for her and wish her all the best luck in her future endeavors and adventures.

“Personally, I feel the best when I am physically

active.”

Nature Is Magical—and These 10 Stunning Photos Prove It. Happy Birthday, Yosemite!By James West

On this day (January 30, 2014) 150 years ago, Abraham Lincoln signed the Yosemite Grant Act to protect Yosemite Valley and Maripo-sa Grove in California. It was the first time the US had set aside wil-derness, in this case roughly the size of Rhode Island, especially for preservation. These days, 4 million people enjoy the park every year to marvel at its famous soaring granite peaks and waterfalls, and en-joy a rare serenity. Here are photos of Yosemite’s epic landscapes, past and present, to celebrate the its sesquicentennial year. Happy Birthday, Yosemite!

President John F. Kennedy’s helicopter is seen here dwarfed by the epic grandeur of Yosemite Falls in August 1962. Kennedy was in Yo-semite for an overnight stay before going to Los Angeles, where he attended ground-breaking ceremonies for the San Luis Dam project. Anonymous/AP Photo

The Three Brothers rise above a mirror-like stream in Yosemite. This photo was taken in the 1860s by Carleton E. Watkins, one of California’s early commercial photographers. He took some of the first photographs of the

Yosemite region. Carleton E. Watkins/Library of Congress

The Three Brothers rise above a mirror-like stream in Yosemite. This photo was taken in the 1860s by Carleton E. Watkins, one of California’s early commercial photographers. He took some of the first photographs of the

Yosemite region. Carleton E. Watkins/Library of Congress

(above)This photo shows the first visitors in three weeks to visit Yosemi-te Valley, on January 6, 1996, after a budget crisis shut down the federal government, and thus the park. Earlier that day, President Bill Clinton signed Republican-crafted legislation to restore wages to federal govern-ment workers while budget negotiations continued, reopening the park to the public. Thor Swift/AP Photo.

(left) Queen Elizabeth II is shown the sites during her visit to the park in March 1983. Walt Zeboski/AP Photo

16

(Above) A view of Half Dome Rock from Glacier Point. mlhradio/Flickr

(Above) In this photo of the night sky above Yosemite valley, the peaks of El Capitan and Cathedral Rocks can be seen on the the left and right, respectively. Joe Parks/Flickr

Explore the Natural Beauty

(Below) The Rim Fire in 2013 was one of the largest wildfires in recent California history and burned parts of Yosemite National Park. The steep, remote topography of western Yosemite made it especially difficult for firefight-ers to get the blaze. Elias Funez/Modesto Bee/ZUMA

Explore the Natural Beauty

Yosemite Valley in Winter, taken from Tunnel View nrg_crisis/Flickr

Majestic Mountains19

Yosemite Valley in Winter, taken from Tunnel View nrg_crisis/Flickr

Majestic Mountains20

The sun sets across Yosemite in this photo from 2006. Nagaraju Hanchanahal/Flickr

The Three Brothers rock formation Mark Brodkin/Solent News/REX/AP Photo

FOR HIM1. Petxl Tikka Headlamp2. Swiss Army Knife3. Metolius Magnum Crashpad4. Gibbon Slacklining5. Joshua Tree Climbing Salve

Climber’sChristmas Wishlist

25

Climber’sChristmas Wishlist

FOR HER1. REI Stuff Travel Daypack2. Five Ten Hiangle Shoe3. Petzl Elia Helmet4. Black Diamond Harness Package5. Joshua Tree Climbing Salve

26