CIFF Jewellery

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2 C I F F J E W E L L E R Y

editorial

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The world of contemporary jewellery is getting a new perspective on its precious gems thanks to a growing number of female creative directors driving design.

Once upon a time the name of a prestigious jewellery house was the only thing that held weight with buyers. And while that is still generally true, a growing number of brands launched or helmed by women are changing the face of fine jewellery.

The doyenne of this movement is Victoire de Castellane. She has been creating whimsical and witty pieces for Christian Dior, as the brand’s creative director, since the inception of its jewellery line in 1998. It is from her light-filled office on the rue François 1er in Paris, jam packed with Disney memorabilia and colorful snow globes, that the designer’s most recent collection for the house was born. Once again thinking outside the box, she produced a line of real precious jewels based on “fake” costume jewellery of the 1950s.

De Castellane’s unique vision has paved the way for a number of other female designers to embrace unusual inspirations as the foundation for their designs. Most prominent of these is Delfina Delettrez, scion of the Fendi family, who has made a name for herself by mixing organic materials with precious stones to create a surrealist take on everything from jewelled insects to metal cuff bracelets sculpted to look like a hand. Another rising star is Anna Hu, a Chinese jeweller who launched her signature brand five years ago. She has already seen her jewellery worn by Gwyneth Paltrow to the Oscars, and her collection has been shown in the contemporary jewellery room of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. But again the inspiration for her intricate work,

drawn from, say, the movie “Avatar” or paintings by Van Gogh, points to a designer with a decidedly modern jewellery perspective.

Audacious designs are perhaps easier for women to

envision and execute. As the jewellery they create will generally be worn by other women, they seem to have a sixth sense about what a woman would find intrinsically desirable. This is a key advantage in today’s jewellery market, as more and more women are going out and buying fine jewellery for themselves instead of waiting for a man to purchase it for them.

The latest lady to enter the fine jewellery fray in a big way is Claire Choisne. She is the newly appointed creative director of Boucheron, one of the most prestigious jewellery houses in the industry. Her highly original first creations for the brand include an exquisite necklace crafted from rough grey diamonds to mimic the pattern of traditional Paris street paving, complete with sprigs of shimmering diamond ivy sprouting though the gaps.

Choisne was inspired by the massive archives of Boucheron but was able to use an unexpected mix of materials to update old concepts. The perfect example would be how she reinterpreted the brand’s emblem – the snake. Choisne came up with the concept of a snake shedding its skin. Then, using the brand’s famous question mark necklace design, she proceeded to create a pixellated mosaic effect of diamonds and opals to represent the snake skin, while at the same time incorporating rock crystal to show the hollowed out shape of the necklace, with diamonds shimmering out from within.

Choisne’s work at Boucheron also points to what looks to be the next big fine jewellery trend – shoulder jewellery. This is not just a matter of moving a classic brooch up to the shoulder. No, keep an eye out for jewellery designed specifically to sit on, across or down a woman’s shoulder. Any outfit that pairs one of these new shoulder pieces with an extra-wide cuff bracelet will look both polished and innovative…just like the women who designed them.

By JESSICA MICHAUlT EdIToR-IN-CHIEf of NoWfASHIoN.CoM

Photography dANIEl RIERA

Cover Solveig wears ring Georg Jensen dress Karen by SimonsenAbove Tea wears ring and earring ole lynggaard jacket Jofama

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Mikkel wears bracelet ole lynggaard shirt M.A.B



Above Malene K. wears necklaces lund Copenhagen bikini Calvin Klein Below Mikkel wears ring Ugo Cacciatori watch Georg Jensen shirt M.A.B



Below Anna wears necklace Georg Jensen dress BoSS Black shoes ApairAbove Marikka wears ring Kranz & Ziegler jacket Barbour t-shirt and pants Part Two; Malthe wears pullover, scarf and trousers M.A.B shoes Rocco P




Above Malte wears watch Bering Time suit BoSS Black

Photography daniel Riera Fashion Kathrine Glindvad and Joy Sinanian Hair lasse Pedersen Make-up Rikke dengsø Manicurist Sarah Sabir Photography assistance John Enos dickey Digital assistance Jacob Storm Retouching Sébastien de oliveira

Photography management david Bault at Jed Root Production fashion Exclusive Models Malthe at Elite Model Management, Anna T., Malene K., otto and Therese at 2PM, Anna H., Marikka, Mikkel and Tea at Scoop, frederikke, Peter Beyer and Solveig at Unique

Below Marikka wears bracelet, watch, necklaces and showpiece Georg Jensen dress Part Two

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Editor-in-chief and CIFF Fashion & Lifestyle Director Kristian W. Andersen Creative Director Pierre Tzenkoff Design Director Mark Jubber Art Director Victor lieberath Head of Digital Strategy Arnaud Vanraet Head of Social Media Hélène le Blanc

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in her own image

“How did that happen?!” Such was the surprise of London-based jewellery designer Lara Bohinc upon learning that Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden had been snapped wearing her jewellery during a recent official appearance. Bohinc’s reaction stems in part from the fact that as a small independent brand, her distribution is extremely selective (she currently has only one stockist in Sweden for instance) and was unaware the princess favoured her designs. It also stems from her refusal to engage in celebrity endorsements despite the widespread industry practice: “I don’t understand the whole celebrity endorsement thing. We do not push our products on anyone. I think in some cases it can cheapen the brand.”

Bohinc similarly learned that Samantha Cameron had given Michelle Obama one of her cuffs as a present at the G20 Summit in 2009 – via the press along with the rest of us. It’s not that she’s not deeply grateful for the attention. It’s just that she believes that celebrities should pay for their own jewellery like everyone else: “Elizabeth Taylor didn’t borrow jewellery or expect payment for wearing it. She bought it because she liked it. I find that a much more powerful statement.” Given the firm grip celebrity payola has had on the industry ever since Giorgio Armani pioneered the practice in the mid-80’s, her statement suggests an independence of spirit and an outspokenness rarely encountered in the industry these days.

Perhaps it’s this independence of spirit that appeals to Scandinavian consumers who have a long tradition of forging their own path independently from the rest

of Europe. “Our presence in Scandinavia is what I would describe as organic. Although we had no plans initially to grow in this market, there is strong demand for our products amongst Scandinavian consumers. It has all come about naturally rather than as the result of us trying to push our way in. There seems to be a natural synergy between my brand and Nordic consumers which is very flattering.”

Bohinc belongs to the growing set of women described by Jessica Michault (p.2) who are reshaping the jewellery industry in their image. The jewellery they design reflects the complex and multifaceted aspects of the lives they lead. “I definitely think that being a woman influences my design. Unlike a man who might design for a muse, I design for myself and for all the women around me. As a woman, I understand what it feels like to get up in the morning, put myself together for work or for a meeting or for a party or whatever. I try to design jewellery that I would like to wear but also that they would like to wear.”

Less encumbered by the weight of heritage and tradition, these emerging women designers feel free to play with bold shapes and new materials. The result is jewellery that reflects the wearer’s personality and aspirations rather than the status of her romantic relationship at any given time. “Many of my customers are single and either don’t want to wait for a man to offer them a piece of jewellery or simply want to experience the satisfaction of buying something for themselves just because they can.” In other words, jewellery by women, for women. Elizabeth Taylor would have approved.

Lara Bohinc left her native Slovenia to study at London’s Royal College of Art, where she completed an MA in jewellery. After receiving grants

from the UK Crafts Council and New Generation, the British Fashion Council’s prestigious mentoring program for young design talent, she

founded her eponymous brand. Today, her designs can be found in prestigious retailers including Harvey Nichols, Harrods and Selfridges.

August 2012 will mark her first participation in CIFF Jewellery Fair.

By HélèNE lE BlANC Photography JoN CoMPSoN

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