CicLAvia: Heart of L.A.

8/11/2019 CicLAvia: Heart of L.A.

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OUR SUPPORTERSAnnenberg FoundationRalph M. Parsons FoundationRosenthal Family FoundationLos Angeles County Department

of Public HealthGoldhirsh FoundationDavid Bohnett FoundationLA2050lululemon athletica

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OUR SPONSORSLos Angeles Department of

Water & PowerRoth Family FoundationFirst 5 LAKaiser Foundation HospitalsSouthern California Gas CompanyThe Laemmle Charitable FoundationTern BicyclesIndie PrintingLos Angeles County Bicycle Coalition

REI

Written by Andrea Richards

Designed by Colleen Corcoran

Printed by Pace Marketing Communications

CICLAVIA 2014

OUR PARTNERS

City ofLos Angeles

County ofLos Angeles

THE HEART OF LA Try as you mayand many havetheres no pithy way to sum up Los Angeles. Those of uswho live here like it that way. Its an eclectic place with adynamic history of intersections (some civil, some not)between people who have created an ut terly unique andmultiethnic city.

Many of the neighborhoods along todays route throughthe historic center of the citythe heart of LAarechanging. From gentrification and development to newwaves of immigration and demographic shifts, there

are elements being lost, buildings being renewed, andcultural movements being born. Thats the thing about aheart: if it stops circulating, you die. The same might betrue of a city: if it stagnates, its vitality suffers.

But the heart is more than just an organ. It is the center ofour affection, of what we love. We heart people, places,even certain taco trucks. When you know something byheart, youve memorized it. And hearts have layers (threein humans). So does this city. The minute I think I know

some tiny section of it, i t opens up to reveal a layer Idnever seen before. Thats part of the flow, the lub-lub-dubbeat that keeps it alive and keeps life here interesting.

CicLAvia is a one-day opportunity to travel the citys heartwithout a car. As you do, think about what you heartabout this place, from landmarks, dive bars, murals, unex-pected parks, and far-out spiritual centers to the peoplewho give the city its heartsay, the paddle boaters and

paleteros in Echo Park or the mariachis of Boyle Heights.But above all, as you move about the ci ty today, have aheartfor your fellow riders and walkers, for the neighbor-hoods you are passing through (show respect!), and forthis great moving city.


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CULINARY LA INSTAGRAM SPOTS

SEEN IT: FILM LOCATIONS LITERARY LA

NEIGHBORHOOD EXTRASLEGEND

ECHO PARK

CHINATOWN

DOWNTOWN

ARTS DISTRICT

BROADWAY THEATER DISTRICT

OUR CITYS MURALSTHE LOS ANGELES RIVER

LITTLE TOKYO

BOYLE HEIGHTS

EAST LA

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CicLAvia transforms LAs streets into a safe, fun,car-free space for walking, bicycling, skating,

jogging, and seeing the city in a whole new way.


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ECHO PARK One of the oldest neighborhoods in LosAngeles, Echo Parks reputation as a bohemian enclave foran ethnically diverse population continues, despite ongo-ing gentrification concerns. Like many of the other Heartof LA neighborhoods, a variety of immigrants have longmade the area home: Latinos, Jews, Asians, and Europeanexpats among them.

Since the development of its bucolic landscape in the early20th century thanks to streetcar lines that connected oneof the citys first suburbs, Angelino Heights, to Downtown,Echo Park has been home to oil fields, Victorian andCraftsman homes, silent-film studios, and a significantnumber of socialists and communists (which earned theneighborhood the nickname Red Hill). Today, it boaststhe citys second-largest park (Elysian); the home of theDodgers (the stadium controversially built on the site ofChavez Ravine); some of the ci tys steepest s treets (ElysianHeights is where early carmakers once tested their wares);and an eclectic batch of small businesses along its maincommercial streets: Sunset Blvd., Glendale Blvd., Alvarado

Ave., and Echo Park Ave.

Rich in history, Echo Park has long supported creativespirits. From innovators in architecture who changed the

look of our city to activists and progressive politicians whochanged its laws, and religious leaders that grew its spirit,Echo Park residents have helped shape the larger cityandcultural trends around the world. Back when Hollywoodwas still mostly an orange grove, it was all happening here.

And as many residents would argue, it still is.

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Paleta from a cart in the park

Chinatown(1974), Mi Vida Loca(1993), Quinceera(2006)

By the Lady of the Lake statuein front of the lakes fountain

The Madonnas of EchoPark by Brandon Skyhorse,SpontaneousbyDiana Wagman


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ANGELES TEMPLE c.1935Photo courtesy of Los Angeles PublicLibrary Photo Collection1 Angelus Temple

1100 Glendale Blvd.

Opened in 1923 by evangelist Aimee SempleMcPherson (known as Sister Aimee to her follow-ers and the press that covered her many colorfulexploits), this historic building holds more than 5,000people with double balconies and 30-foot windowsinside. A pioneering radio evangelist and charis-matic minister who drew thousands to her highlytheatrical services, McPherson founded the Churchof the Four Square Gospel, a Pentecostal denomi-nation that brought conservative Protestantism intomainstream culture. Today, The Foursquare Churchhas more than 66,000 churches and meeting placesin 140 countries and territories.

2 Echo Park Lake751 Echo Park Ave.

Known as Reservoir No. 4, this man-made lake was

built in 1868 to store drinking water for the devel-oping homes and businesses around it. In 1895, thearea became a public park, named, as the legendholds, for the echoes builders heard coming of fcanyon walls. Since 1971, the park has served as thehome of the Lotus Festival (the historic beds of thesebeloved floating flowers was recently restored), thecity s first multicultural festival, which celebrates thecontributions of Asian Americans to Los Angeles. LADY OF THE LAKE STATUE

AT ECHO PARK LAKEPhoto courtesy Aaron Paley


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3 Bernies Teriyaki318 Glendale Blvd.

In honor of the large Filipino community that settledthe area in the early 20th centur y, the southwestsection of Echo Park is designated as part of HistoricFilipinotown, a district that extends into neighboringSilver Lake and Westlake. Dont be fooled by thename; a family-owned staple since 1977, Berniesserves delicious Filipino-style BBQ.

4 Bob Baker MarionetteTheater1345 W.1st St.

A designated historic-cultural monument, this is theoldest childrens theater company in Los Angelesa family entertainment institution that is still run byvisionary founder Bob Baker. Baker and his team oftalented puppeteers per form shows and build theirmagical marionettes here, to the delight of childrenand adults. Now in its 53rd season of shows, get yourticket and travel back in time.

5 Vista Hermosa Park100 N. Toluca St.

This hidden gem of a park designed by Mia Lehrer &Associates transforms 10 acres of formerly devel-oped land in the citys urban core back to naturewith walking trails, streams, meadows, a picnic area,a playground, and a soccer field. With spectacularskyline views and few crowds, this beautiful park is atestament to how a toxic landscapeits built on theformer site of the failed Belmont Learning Center

can be turned around.

6 DWP/Boylston FacilityBetween 1st St., Beaudry Ave., 2nd St. and Bixel St.

Looking somewhat ominous thanks to the perimeterwallrestricted access, so dont enterthis super-block contains various buildings (one built in 1911,another in 1927, many in the 1940s, and severalpost 1950) that service the citys Department of

Water and Power. Originally established in 1910 asLos Angeles Municipal Power & Light, according toSurvey LA, this property has operated as the nervecenter of Los Angeles municipal electric system forover 100 years.


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DOWNTOWN Proving the old adage that everythingold is new again, Downtown (DTLA) is currently the citysfastest-growing neighborhood. Of course, Downtownas a district is actually about 15 different neighborhoods;each has a distinct identity.

Unlike other parts of the city, Downtown has been fairlywell preserved, with many of its historic buildings stillexistent. In the Historic Core, you can find the remains ofopulent hotels, beautiful department stores, and grandmovie palaces, as well as the impressive bank buildingsalong Spring St., once known as Wall Street of the West.Thanks to the preservation of these s tructures, it s easy toimagine life during Downtowns golden agethe first halfof the 20th century, when the area was the center of thecitys business, entertainment, and transport services.

Sadly, there is one very important part of Downtown thathas been lost, but on todays route youll mostly be ridingbeneath it: Bunker Hill. The stately Victorian mansions thatonce composed the largely residential district were alldestroyed in the 1950s and replaced with todays sky-

scrapers. As the city s skyline underwent drastic change,so too did Downtown, which unfor tunately plummetedinto decline as the postwar suburban boom led many

businesses and residents to seek cheaper (and more con-venient) real estate elsewhere. Downtown became only anoccasional destination, known for expensive parking andnear-empty streets after dusk.

But an adaptive-reuse ordinance put into place in the1990s made it easier for developers to transform vacantcommercial buildings into residential lofts, whichbrought new life to the area. Since then, its been a slowbut steady rebirththe result of which is evident in thevibrancy of the streets once again.

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Bacon wrapped hot dogserved on the street

500 Days of Summer(2009),Blade Runner(1982), The Exiles(1961), Kiss Me Deadly (1955)

Backlit by glow of2nd Street Tunnel

Ask the Dustby John Fante,Echoes in the City of Angelsby Helen Hunt Jackson

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7 2nd Street Tunnel2nd St. between Figueroa St. and Hill St.

Opened in 1924 to relieve the congestion of theearlier 3rd Street Tunnel (yes, traffic woes in thecitys center are nothing new), this underpass issituated directly beneath Bunker Hill. The tunnelswhite tiles and neon lights, which create startlinglywell-lit photography, makes it a popular locationfor film shootscar commercials, in par ticular, are

frequent users. But youve seen it in Blade Runner,The Terminator, Gattaca, and Kill Bill too.

8 Los Angeles Times BuildingSpring St. and 1st St.

This impressive 1935 Moderne building, designedby Gordon B. Kaufmann (Hoover Dam, Santa AnitaPark), is the fourth home of the daily newspaper.The other three were located across the street onthe northeast corner of N. Broadway and W. 1st St.,

an area that is being developed by the cit y as anadjunct to Grand Park and was the Times locationwhen the newspapers offices were bombed in 1910.Before the Times moved to this side of the s treet,this was the site of L As two previous City Halls.

9 Bradbury Building304 S. Broadway

One of LAs most unique architectural treasures, theBradbury building is a bit like the city itself: modest

to the outside world, but full of light and beautyshould you travel inside. Built in 1893 and inspired bythe utopian Socialist sci-fi novel Looking Backward, itis the oldest commercial building in the central cityand its wrought-iron railings and open-cage eleva-tors are instantly recognizable to Blade Runnerfans.

BRADBURY BUILDING INTERIORPhoto courtesy Aaron Paley


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10 Grand Central Market317 S. Broadway

Recently revamped, some snazzy new stalls havebeen added to this open-air market opened in 1917and in operation ever since. A historical landmarkand beloved LA institution, this dynamic space con-tinues to reflect the changing population of DTLA.In 1984 it was purchased by real es tate developersIra and Adele Yellin, who also bought and restoredthe adjacent Million Dollar Theater and the BradburyBuilding across the street.

11 Biddy Mason Park331 S. Spring St. (also S. Broadway and 3rd St.)

Born a slave in Georgia, Biddy Mason worked asa nurse and midwife in Los Angeles after earningemancipation in 1860 (she literally ran for herfreedom). A philanthropist, educator, and business-woman, she was one of the first African Americans

to purchase land in the city and the cofounder ofLAs first black church, which once occupied this site.Today, two works of ar t pay homage to her life here,a timeline wall by Sheila Levrant de Bretteville anda piece by Betye Saar. The park and its monumentsmark a si te where nothing of Masons life remainsa testament to the power of place and memory inthe City of Forgetting.

12 Cliftons Brookdale Cafeteria648 S. Broadway

Currently closed for renovations, Clif tons is thelast of the regions largest cafeteria chains and alittle slice of kit sch heaven, featuring a full-blownforest inside complete with a waterfall and stream.Opened in 1935 by Clifford E. Clinton, a man whoembodies the heart of LA (he instituted a pay whatyou wish, policy that nearly bankrupted him duringthe Depression). Cliftons also happens to be one ofthe oldest buildings remaining on Broadway, datingback to 1904.

13 Eastern Columbia Lofts849 S. Broadway

A general rule: anytime you pass over a chevronterrazzo sidewalk, look up. This spectacular land-mark with its turquoise terra cotta, impressive clocktower, and signature neon sign cant be missed.Built in 1930 as the lavish headquarters for theEastern Outfitting Company and the ColumbiaOutfitting Company, the 13-story structure was oneof the largest buildings constructed Downtown untilafter WWII. In 2006 it was converted into luxurycondominiums, many of which were sold to celebri-ties (Johnny Depp owns a penthouse).


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MILLION DOLLARTHEATRE

307 S. Broadway

LOS ANGELES THEATRE615 S. Broadway

UNITED ARTISTS(ACE HOTEL)

929 S. Broadway

EASTERN COLUMBIABUILDING

849 S. Broadway

STATE THEATRE703 S. Broadway

ROXIE THEATRE518 S. Broadway

Broadway Theater District

SPRINGARCADE BUILDING

541 S. Spring

DOWNTOWNPALACE THEATRE

630 S. Broadway

TOWER THEATRE

802 S. Broadway

RIALTO THEATRE

810 S. Broadway

ORPHEUM THEATRE

842 S. Broadway


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CHINATOWNTodays Chinatown is, in fact, NewChinatown, and some old-timers still refer to it that way.Like residents of several of the citys other ethnic enclaves(Chavez Ravine and Little Tokyo), LAs Chinese Americancommunity has dealt with multiple displacements and flour-ished despite historic injustices and civic complications.

An 1870 census shows that of the 5,728 citizens in LosAngeles, 172 were Chinese. Most of them lived on CalleDe Los Negrosinfamous for its history of violence,including the 1871 Chinese Massacre, in which 18 Chinese

American people were murderedwhich was renamed LosAngeles St. in 1877. As the Chinese American communitybegan to flourish and expand, so did Old Chinatownsboundaries, eventually encompassing 15 streets andabout 3,000 people.

The easterly half of Chinatown was demolished for theconstruction of Union Station in the 1930s. Because of theExclusion Acts and other racist laws at the time, Chinese

Americans were not allowed to own land and had littlerecourse to challenge the plan that would combine the pas-

senger terminals for the three major railroads that servedLos Angeles. There was no compensation for Chinatowndisplacees. Instead, some residents and businessmen,

led by Peter Soo Hoo, Sr., banded together to acquireproperty as a California corporation and build on a sitethat, unlike the old, they could control. From the onset, NewChinatown, the first planned Chinatown community in theUS, was built to be a tourist attraction andethnic residentialcommunity, with an entertainment complex of restaurants,

shops, and other open-space at tractions that might beconsidered a precursor to popular theme developmentsand outdoor malls like The Grove.

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Hop Louie (the old)Chego (the new)

Dragon Seed (1944),Freaky Friday(2003),Lethal Weapon 4(1998),Rush Hour(1998)

In front of Hop Louie pagoda(built in 1941) or tossing coinsin Central Plazas wishing well

On Golden Mountain byLisa See,Mr. Fongs Toyshopby Leo Politi

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14 Fort Moore Pioneer Memorial430 N. Hill St.

Known historically as Fort Hill, this site served as amilitary garrison during the Mexican-American War.It was important during the 1846 Siege of Los Angeleswhen US troops were forced to withdraw from it,and a year later when it was fortified by the MormonBattalion. The forts namesake hill, which oncestretched from Cesar Chavez Ave. to Temple St., wascarved back

first in 1930 to expand Spring St., and

then for the development of the Hollywood Freeway.

15 View of Plaza, El Pueblode Los Angeles HistoricalMonument

Area bounded by Cesar Chavez Ave., Los Angeles,Arcadia, New High and Main Sts.

From Broadway, take in the view of the citys birth-

place: the site of the Pueblo established in 1781 thatwould become Los Angeles. Historically, the Plazahere has always been the center of the city, whetherit was under Spanish, Mexican, or American rule.Surrounding it are 27 historic buildings and OlveraStreet, the world famous outdoor Mexican market-place. The Chinese American Museum, Avila Adobe(LAs oldest residence), the Italian Hall, and theSiqueiros Mural are important historic sites.

16 Far East Plaza727 N. Broadway

Perhaps the first ethnic food court built in the US(opened in 1976); today this plaza remains an outpostfor good eats. Historic restaurants here were amongthe first to introduce foods like dumplings, ChineseBBQ, and pho to Chinatown, including the first TenRen Tea shop, which is still in operation. Other tenantsinclude Wing Hop Fung Ginseng & China ProductsCenter, the largest department store in Chinatown;Kogi-truck founder Roy Chois flagship eatery, Chego;and cult favorite ice-cream shop, Scoops.

17 Little Joes Restaurant (Site)904 N. Broadway

Before this area became Chinatown, it was Little Italyand a beloved Italian restaurant occupied this sitefrom 1927 until 1998. Popular with Hollywood stars inthe 1940s, Little Joes became an informal clubhouse

for the Dodgers after they moved west . The aban-doned restaurant was demolished in 2014 to star tconstruction of a $100-million mixed-use develop-ment that will link Broadway to the Chinatown Metrostation. Recently, workers unearthed a segmentof the Zanja Madre, or Mother Ditch, the originalaqueduct that brought water to the Pueblo deLos Angeles.


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THE NEW CHINATOWN MAIN GATEWAYAND CENTRAL PLAZA, 2000Photo courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Photo Collection

18 Central Plaza947 N. Broadway

Walk through the East Gate, a traditionalpailouandenter the centerpiece of 1938s New Chinatown,where many cultural festivities occur. Along thepedestrian streets are curio stores, antique shops,art galleries, restaurants, and fortunetellers. All ofthe funding for New Chinatown was from ChineseAmerican investors, some of whom were displacedfrom Old Chinatown. Be sure to toss coins in thewishing well (modeled on the Seven Star Caverns inGuangdong Province) and visit the West Gate, com-posed of 150-year-old camphor wood and deckedout in gorgeous neon.

19 Phoenix Bakery969 N. Broadway

Founded in 1938 by the Chan family (who still run it)to make traditional Chinese pastries like sticky sugar

butterflies and wintermelon cakes, as well as westernsweets, this beloved bakerys signature product is i tsstrawberry cream cake. Invented by Lun Chan in the1940s, the whipped cream cake with fresh strawber-ries and almonds has become a staple of birthdays,weddings, and celebrations across the cit y. To meetdemand, the popular bakery expanded to its currentlocation in 1977. Stop in for a slice or mini-cake.

JOY YUEN LOW RESTAURANTAND PHOENIX BAKERY c.1950Photo courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library

Photo Collection


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LITTLE TOKYO With roots going back to the 1880s,LAs Little Tokyoone of only three remaining Japantownsin Californiahas survived turbulent times. In the early

years, the Japanese American population in the areaconsisted mostly of single men, many of whom establishedthe regions wholesale produce markets. But by the turn ofthe 20th century Japanese immigrants, or Issei, includedwomen and families too. As the Isseiestablished busi-nesses, community organizations, churches, and templesalong San Pedro St., First St., and Central Ave., they createda haven for other immigrants from Japan and gave birth to

Nisei

a generation of Japanese Americans born in the US.

The racist Exclusion Act of 1924 barred further migrationfrom Japan; however, the vibrant community (at its peak30,000 Japanese American people lived here) continued tothrive until World War II. As the US government unconstitu-tionally interned citizens in domestic concentration camps,Little Tokyo was all but abandoned, its once lively streetsempty. During the internment, the area was rechristened

Bronzeville as African Americans, Native Americans, andsome Latinos moved into vacant properties.

After the war, some residents returned to Li ttle Tokyo,but because of housing shortages many opted to settle

further afield in nearby Boyle Heights or in other citiessuch as Torrance and Monterey Park. Since then the areahas been less a residential district for Japanese Americansthan a place of significant historic and cultural impor-tancethreatened with eradication first by the internment,and later because of land-use issues (the encroachmentof the Civic Center to the north and the Arts District to theeast). Investment in the 1970s led to some redevelopmentof the area, but its continued success as an ethnic enclaveowes much to activism from community organizations thatbelieve in preserving this special place.

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Wagashi (confections) fromFugetsu-Do (315 E. 1st St.)

Lil Tokyo Reporter(2012),Scarface(1983), Showdownin Little Tokyo(1991)

In front of the wood yagura(tower) in JapaneseVillage Plaza

Death in Little Tokyo by KenTanaka, Farewell to Manzanarby Jeanne Wakatsuki Houston

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20 St. VibianasNorthwest corner of Main St. and 2nd St.

Located just to the west of Little Tokyo, this formercathedral is more than 111 years old and was namedafter a Christian martyr whose relics were placedinside. It was used as a parish of the Roman CatholicArchdiocese of Los Angeles until the 1994 NorthridgeEarthquake caused extensive damage. Thanks to theefforts of Los Angeles Conservancy preservationists,Vibiana was not torn down (the Archdiocese made adeal with the City and built Our Lady of the Angelsinstead). Today, it is a privately owned event venue.

21 Weller Court/Friendship Knot123 Astronaut E S Onizuka St.

Symbolizing unity between two cultures, the Friend-ship Knot sculpture by Shinkichi Tajiri, a Los Angelesnative and nisei, stands at the 2nd St. entrance of

this multi-level shopping mall. Along with restau-rants serving ramen, Japanese curry, shabu shabu,and sushi, there are also karaoke clubs, tea cafes,and a branch of Kinokuniya, the Japanese book-store chain. In the plaza is a memorial to astronautEllison Onizuka, who died aboard the Space Shut tleChallenger. The unusual diagonal configuration ofOnizuka St. is because it was a shortcut on a 21-milestagecoach route from San Pedro.

22 Japanese Village Plaza335 E. 2nd St.

Opened in 1978, the creation of an open-air mall ofshops and eateries was a community effort to helprevitalize the neighborhoodand it worked. Its ahub for cultural events and street performances,as well as a great place to get a snack. Eat takoyaki(fried octopus balls) and the famed imagawayki(griddled red bean cakes) at the Mitsuru Caf (youcan watch both being made through the window)or try the mochi from Mikawaya, a century-old tradi-tional bakery that introduced the dessert to the US.

23 Azusa Street Mission312 Azusa St.

Right next to the JACCC is Azusa Street wheremore than a century ago, African American ministerWilliam J. Seymour birthed an entirely new Christiandenomination in a former stable. Seymour preached

that the Holy Spirit could grant believers spiritualgifts of healing, prophecy, and the ability to speakin tongues. His boisterous services drew huge,multiethnic crowds who met on the sawdust-coveredfloor of the Apostolic Faith Mission. Dismissed asholy rollers, by the press, the Azusa Street Revivalbirthed the worldwide Pentecostal Movement, whichtoday has more than 800 million members.


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24 Japanese American Cultural& Community Center(JACCC)/Noguchi Plaza244 S. San Pedro St.

Located just a block off the route, this plaza designedby sculptor and designer Isamu Noguchi (of thefamed table) is a one-acre open space that hostscultural events. Crowning the space is the monumen-tal To the Issei Noguchi sculpture, a tribute to thefirst generation of Japanese immigrants. Foundedin 1971, the JACCC is the largest Asian Americancultural center in the US; its facilities also include thebeautiful James Irvine Japanese Garden.

25 Temples & Churches on 3rd St.Just south of where the Pentecostals met, we findmany other religious institutions. There are twoChristian churches started by isseiimmigrants,Centenary United Methodist Church(300 S. CentralAve.) and Union Church of Los Angeles(401 E. 3rdSt.). TheHigashi Honganji Buddhist Temple(505E. 3rd St.) was the first Japanese Buddhist templebuilt in LA, in 1904. The Jodo Shu Betsuin BuddhistTemple(442 E. 3rd St.) was first established in 1936on 1st St. but moved to its present location in 1992.Finally, the Japanese American National Museum(1st and Central) is in the renovated 1925 NishiHongwanji Buddhist Temple.

DEDICATION OF NOGUCHI PLAZAIN JACCC COURTYARD, 1983Photo courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Photo Collection


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Route for CicLAvia Heart of LA presented by Metro October 5, 2014


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26 The American Hotel/Als Bar303 S. Hewitt St.

Built in 1905 as a first-class hotel for AfricanAmericans, this building was designed by Morganand Walls, one of the city s oldest architectural firms.Pullman car porters who worked at the nearby railswere a large portion of the hotels guests. In the1970s, Als Bar, widely considered the epicenterof LAs punk scene, opened on the ground floor;it closed in 2001. Blooms General Store, the firstgrocery store in the area was here in the 90s but wassimilarly forced to close in 2009 due to rising rents.

27 Arts Share LA801 E. 4th Pl.

This massive warehouse, formerly a rag shop built in1928, now houses a nonprofit that provides subsi-dized lofts for artists and offers community exhibi-tions and events.

28 Coca-Cola Building/T.T. Toys963 E. 4th St.

Almost a century-old, this 123,600-square-footbuilding was the soda makers production facilityand West Coast headquarters until 1929 whenthe company moved to the Streamline Moderneship on Central Ave. Today, the building is mostlyreferred to by the name of its most recent tenant, atoy company that is no longer there. Recently pur-chasedin an all cash sale for $19 million, whichgoes to show how hot properties are in the areaplans are in the works for a mixed-use development.

ART INSTALLATION OUTSIDE ALS BAR, 1986Photo courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Photo Collection


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29 Southern California Instituteof Architecture (SCI-Arc)960 E. 3rd St.

One of the nations few independent architecturalschoolsand a much respected oneuses this100-year-old freight house as its home. Originallyconstructed by the Santa Fe Railroad, this is the lastremaining structure from the railroad company that

operated here for more than a century. After SantaFe moved its operations, the building became awarehouse and was abandoned by the time SCI-Arcrehabilitated it. The League of Shadows structureat the corner of 4th and Merrick St. is a semi-perma-nent event pavilion built by students.

30 One Santa Fe300 S. Santa Fe Ave.

If this narrow mixed-use development looks massive,

thats because it is

a quarter-mile long, in fact

itsform meant to echo that of the rail lines and rivernearby. Designed by LA-based architect MichaelMaltzan and opened in 2014, it houses more than400 luxury apartments and The Yards, an upscaleretail area. Considered by some as the linchpin in thedistrict s revitalization, it is also maligned by manywho dislike the megadevelopment and the areasongoing gentrification.

MURALS bring art into the public sphere and topassersby, who from the street or the sidewalk can enjoyit, free of charge. Los Angeles has a long tradition ofmurals; they are an essential part of our urban landscapeand an aesthetic presence that improves our city. Todaysroute offers a close-up look at several of the city s mostimportantand most beautifulmurals. We are also

glad to coincidealmost to the daywith the one-yearanniversary of Mural Day, which celebrated the passageof a resolution that ended a decade-long moratorium onmurals on private property. The 2013 mural ordinance notonly allows the creation of new murals but also insures the

survival of already existent ones.

Celebrating these works of art with us today is the MuralConservancy of Los Angeles, a non-profit organizationformed in 1987 by a coalition of artists, public art advo-cates, city and state officials, and restoration specialists.MCLA works to protect the legal rights of artists and to

prevent the loss of significant works of public ar t. Mostimportantly, MCLA is committed to preserving the artisticheritage of Los Angeles as one of the mural capitals ofthe world.

We asked MCLA to handpick a few notable murals alongour route; be sure to stop and have a look at these historicartworks. And, of course, expect to see even more won-derful murals along the waythe citys full of them.


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Celebrate the Citys Murals

VIC TOR C LOTH ING BUILDING240-242 S. Broadway

The Bride and the Groomby Kent Twitchell, 1972-76

Gateway to Manifest Destinyby East Los Streetscapers, 1982

Nio y Caballoby Frank Romero, 1984

The Pope of Broadwayby Eloy Torrez, assisted byBob Grigas, 1985Referencing his famous role in thefilm Zorba the Greek, this portrait ofChicano actor Anthony Quinn showsthe Bradbury Building behind thedancing Academy Award winner.Photo Kelly Hilker

THE CONTAINER YARD828 E 4th St.Untitled muralsby various artists including

Christina Angelina, Ease,Mar, and SekPhoto Ian Robertson-Salt

GOVERNMENT KILLS

1500 Colton St. and Glendale Blvd.by Marka 27, 2013Photo Ian Robertson-Salt

THE GREATEST LOVE

E. Cesar Chavez Ave.and Soto St.by Paul Botello, 1992Photo Robin Dunitz

EL CORRIDO DE BOYLE HEIGHTS

245 N. Soto St.by East Los Streetscapers, 1983The East Los Streetscapers are DavidBotello, Wayne Healy, and GeorgeYepes. Assisted by Paul Botello, DavidMorin, and Ismael Cazarez. A corrido isa traditional, ballad-style Mexican songand this mural features several promi-nent local musicians. Restored by MCLAin 1990.Photo Robin Dunitz

HOMAGE TO THE MEXICAN MASTERS

346 N. Arizona Ave. by John Zender Estrada, withNuke, Chose, Siner, Zuco, Scud, Cahli, Shandu,and Duce, 2004 Features many of the great Mexicanmuralists and painters including Siquieros, Orozco,Rivera, Kahlo, Tamayo, Posada, Camarena, and Dr. Atl.

HOMENAJE A SIQUEIROS

3818 E. Cesar Chavez Ave. andGage Ave. by Eva Cockcroft andAlessandra Moctezuma, 1998Located at the former location ofSelf Help Graphics , this mural is

a reconstruction of David AlfaroSiqueiros Amrica Tropical,which he painted in Olvera Streetin 1932. Photo Robin Dunitz


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THE LOS ANGELES RIVER Long before anyEuropeans arrived, settlements of Tongva people livedalong this river, creating what is thought to have been someof the most culturally advanced and prosperous of Native

American communities. The 51-mile river, flowing from theSanta Susana Mountains and Simi Hills to the Pacific Ocean,was central to their lives and provided the food and waterneeded for survival. Its hard to imagine, in its current form,that this thin trickle of water encased in a concrete coffincould sustain so many communities, but its true. Even afterthe Spanish established the Pueblo de Los Angeles, the

river was central to survival, providing water for farmlandsand domestic needs via the Zanja Madre, the aqueductthat ran from the river to the main plaza.

But the rapid growth of the city at the turn of the 20thcentury proved too much for the Zanjasystem, and the con-

struction of the Los Angeles Aqueduct changed the citysrelationship with the river forever. No longer needed as a

primary water source, the river was essentially discarded,and the 100 years since have not been kind to what wasonce a thriving ecosystem. After two disastrous floodsin the 1930s, the US Army Corps of Engineers began anambitious construction project to control the rivers path.Over the course of 30 years, 3 million barrels of concretewere poured to create immovable banks, transforming aonce meandering river into the worlds largest storm drain.

But thanks to the ongoing efforts of environmentalists,community organizers, city officials (Mayor Garcetti amongthem), and real-estate investors, the Los Angeles River hasa second chance. Efforts are under way to turn it back into a

greenway, and in April 2014, the city proposed an ambitious$1 billion plan to restore the river and add civic amenities

such as parks and recreational centers along its route.

Foraging by the river; ediblesinclude California black walnuts,chickweed, elderberries, nettles

Grease (1978),Repo Man (1984),Terminator 2 (1991),Them (1954)

Selfie in front of soon-to-be-demolished Sixth St. Bridge

The Concrete Riverby Luis J.Rodrguez, The Education ofHopey Glass (Love & Rockets)by Jaime Hernandez

As we begin to encounter the river as a place, not anabstraction, we encounter each other. The riverbank is notthe perfect place for this meeting, but its the only place wehave that extends the length of metropolitan Los Angelesand along nearly all the borders of our social divides. Thinkof the river were making as the anti-freewaynot dispers-ing LA but pulling it together. D.J. Waldie,

As We Gather at the River, Los Angeles Times, July 23, 2000

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31 Fourth Street ViaductDesigned by Merrill Butler, who was responsible formany of the city s most spectacular historic bridges,this 1931 reinforced concrete bridge replaced anolder, wooden one that was built in 1903. Butlerwas the citys engineer for bridges and structuresfrom 1923 to 1961 and designed nine of the 14historic bridges that cross the Los Angeles River,each one with a different architectural theme and

style. Adorned with Gothic Revival details (railings,porticos), the bridge was retrofit ted in 1995 and is aHistoric-Cultural Monument.

32 Sixth Street ViaductThe last-built of Merrill Butler s many monumentalriver bridges, the 1932 Sixth Street Bridge (as it ismore commonly called), is the longest concretebridge of its kind in California and the longest city-owned bridge in Los Angeles. Its graceful ClassicalModerne design and sweeping, riveted steel arches

make it one of the citys iconic landmarks, featured inmany photographs, films, and commercials. As wellas being beautiful, it provides a vital transportationlink between the Arts District and Boyle Heights. Butbecause of a chemical reaction (alkali-silica reaction)the structure is slowly deteriorating and vulnerableto collapse in an earthquake. Sadly, it will soon bereplaced; demolition is scheduled for spring 2015.

NEWLY CONSTRUCTED 4TH STREET VIADUCTc.1931Photo courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Photo Collecti on, c. 1931

6TH STREET VIADUCT c.1920Photo courtesy of Los Angeles Public LibraryPhoto Collection.


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BOYLE HEIGHTS Unlike many parts of Los Angeles,Boyle Heights never had restrictive covenants limitingwho could reside here, and so Mexicans, Japanese, Jews,Molokan Russians, Filipinos, Italians, and African Americanscame together to create a vibrant, mixed, neighborhood.

Between the World Wars, Boyle Heights boasted the largestJewish community west of Chicagoand the West Coastslargest Yiddish-speaking enclave. These Jewish residentslived alongside the areas substantial Mexican community,many from families who had fled the Mexican Revolutionin 1910 or had long roots going back the rancho dayswhen Boyle Heights wasMexico. Along with restaurants,businesses, synagogues, Buddhist temples, and churches,there was a slew of movie theaters throughout the area,

some showing films in Spanish, some in Yiddish.

After World War II, the demographics of Boyle Heights shifted.Most of the Japanese American residents who had been forciblyinterned did not return to the area, and almost all of the Jewishfamilies moved to the Westside or the San Fernando Valley. Thereasons for this shift are complicated and not just a matter of eth-nic secession. Instead, the segregation we see here, like in manyof the citys neighborhoods, occurred because institutionalforces were behind it. Postwar bank policies made it easier for

many to move out of rather than return to mixed neighborhoods.At the time, the Home Owners Loan Corporation City SurveyFiles described Boyle Heights as hopelessly heterogeneous,a negative rating that redlined homes.

Today, Boyle Heights is 94 percent Latino and one of themost high-density neighborhoods in the city. Reflecting thisdemographic shift, Brooklyn Ave., the anchor of the centralbusiness district, was renamed Cesar E. Chavez Ave. in 1993.It continues to be a bustling retail area with great restaurants,

small businesses, and some of the citys best murals.

Pastrami burrito

Boyle Heights (2010),Breakin 2(1984),Men O War(1929)

In front of Mariachi Plazawith a mariachi band

Border Correspondent byRuben Salazar, Real WomenHave Curvesby Josefina Lopez

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33 Mariachi Plaza de Los AngelesFirst St., Boyle Ave. and Pleasant St.

Named for the musicians who have gathered here

since the 1940s, this is the citys center of mariachiculture and a place of pride to the areas thrivingMexican-American community. Todays plazaevolved from a traffic triangle with a donut shopwhere musicians would wait for work, to the outdoorspace complete with a kiosk donated from theMexican state of Jalisco (birthplace of mariachi),and a Metro Gold Line station. The 1889 Boyle Hotelon the corner is often called the Mariachi Hotel forthe many musicians who live there.

34 Libros Schmibros1711 Mariachi Plaza

This used bookstore and lending library was startedby writer and LA native David Kipen and championsthe pleasures of literature and its power to changelives. From hosting events, salons, and classes,the store has become a fixture of Boyle Height s 1stStreet arts district, along with the Casa 0101 Theaterand Corazn del Pueblo. In the works at Libros

Schmibros is a plan for a fleet of bicycle libraries!

35 Breed Street Shul247 N. Breed St.

The largest and most ornate of the many synagoguesthat were once in Boyle Heights, this 1922 landmarkbuilding, along with a smaller 1915 structure, housedthe Congregation Talmud Torah from 1915 to theearly 1980s. It was the largest Orthodox synagoguein the West and could accommodate 1,100 people.

The Shul served as the center of the areas Jewishcommunity, which included Brooklyn Ave.s businessdistrict and the educational and medical establish-ments along Breed (including LAs first Jewish dayschool as well as Mount Sinai Clinicforerunnerto Cedars-Sinai Medical Center). Today, it is beingrestored as a cultural center.

THE BOYLE HOTEL c. 1942Photo courtesy of Los AngelesPublic Library Photo Collection


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36 Keiro Senior HealthCare/Jewish Home for the Aging325 S. Boyle Ave.

This residential facility for elderly Japanese-Americans is located on five acres of land that servedas the Jewish Home for the Aging from 1916 to 1976.The importance of elders is deeply rooted in bothJewish and Japanese cultures, and the two share a

history of suf fering under internment and bigotry.In 2012, a seder honoring the sites history and theJewish Homes 100th anniversary was held wherefood and rituals from both cultures were shared.

37 Evergreen Cemetery &Jogging Path204 N. Evergreen Ave.

A 70-acre cemetery founded in 1877, Evergreenwas the first privately owned burial ground to serve

the city. Like the neighborhood that surrounds it,Evergreen boasts a multiracial population, albeita segregated one with sections for Armenians,Chinese, Japanese, Anglos, African Americans(Biddy Mason is interred here), and Latinos. With sofew public parks serving the area, in 2003, the LatinoUrban Forum and neighborhood residents ralliedsupport to create a soft jogging path around thecemetery for the surrounding community to use.

38 Jims Burgers #101901 E. 1st St

This family owned, midcentury-style diner with itsstunning neon sign has been serving burgers andpastrami sandwiches, as well as tacos and burritossince 1972. An institution in Boyle Heights for fourdecades, it s the go-to joint for Anglo food. Likeother diners in the area, the availability of pastrami isa reminder of the areas one-time Jewish population(the original Canters was at 2323 Brooklyn Ave.).

39 Cinco PuntosE. Cesar Chavez Ave./Indiana St..

Also known as Five Points, Cinco Puntos is thejunction where Cesar Chavez Ave., Indiana, andLorena Streets meet and weave around a landmarkveterans memorial (3300 E. Cesar Chavez Ave.) andtwo traffic islands. Located where the City of LosAngeles meets County territoryat the border of

Boyle Heights and East Los Angeles, the All WarsMemorial, built in 1947, honors Mexican Americanswho fought in wars. Currently, plans are in the worksto transform the intersection into a roundabout,which would relocate the memorial.


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EAST LOS ANGELES Located just east of the cityof Los Angeless boundary line, East Los Angeles is an

unincorporated area, meaning it does not have a localmunicipal government but instead falls within Los AngelesCountys governances and services. In the first half of the20th century, like its neighbor Boyle Heights to the west,East Los Angeles was home to many recent immigrants,with a highly diverse population.

In the 1920s, increased immigration from Mexico helped toswell the areas Mexican American population, which oftenfound the city outside their vibrant East LA community tobe hostile (between 1931 and 1934 half a million Mexicans,many of them US citizens, were forced to repatriate toMexico). The labor shortage caused by World War II easedthe deportations only so Mexican citizens could help withthe war effortat home, the discrimination and prejudicecontinued unabated, as the Zoot Suit Riots attest.

The construction of the freeways in the 1950s and 60sdevastated the community. Despite many protests fromresidents, the Division of Highways laid siege to the neigh-borhood. Along with the channelization of the Los AngelesRiver, the freeways further cut East Los Angeles off from therest of the city, a devastation Helena Maria Viramontes, a

writer who grew up in East Los Angeles, characterized asfollows: the bulldozers resembled the conquerors shipscoming to colonize a second time

After these injustices, East Los Angeles became thebirthplace of the Chicano movement in the 1960s and

70s. Along with inspiring ethnic pride (the Brown Beretsoriginated here) among the largest Latino community inthe US, the fight for civil rights made the area a bastion for

political activism and the center of Chicano art, literature,and intellectualisma legacy that continues to this day.

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Born in East L.A. (1987),My Family/Mi Familia(1995),Stand and Deliver(1988),Walkout(2006)

In front of lake at East LACivic Center

The Republic of East L.A.byLuis J. Rodriguez, Their DogsCame with Themby HelenaMaria Virmontes


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40 Self Help Graphics &Art Building3800 E. Cesar Chavez Ave.

Home and birthplace of this important commu-nity ar ts center from 1979 until 2005, the beautifulmosaic work of embedded ceramics on this buildingare the work of artist and long-time East LA resident,Eduardo Oropeza. Formed in 1970 by printmaker

and Franciscan nun Sister Karen Bocalerro alongwith other Chicano artists amidst the cultural renais-sance of the Chicano movement and incorporated asa non-profit three years later, Self Help, now locatedin Boyle Heights, promotes socially engaging art.They also organize the ci tys popular annual celebra-tion of Da De Los Muertos, hosting this years 41stevent that will bring thousands to East LA.

41 Anthony Quinn Library3965 E. Cesar Chavez Ave.

Built on the site of the family home where actorAnthony Quinn grew up, this public library is oper-ated by the County of Los Angeles. Quinn, whowas also a writer and painter, was the first MexicanAmerican actor to win an Academy Awardfirst, in1952 for Viva Zapata!, and again in 1956 forLust forLife. Before his acting career, he studied architectureunder Frank Lloyd Wright, worked as a professionalboxer, and was a child apprentice to LA evangelistAimee Semple McPherson (see Echo Park).

SELF HELP GRAPHICS EXTERIORPhoto courtesy of Aaron Paley

42 Bages & Sons Mortuary4221 E. Cesar Chavez Ave.

This Spanish-style building is an 80-year-old iconalong Cesar Chavez Ave.; it was built in 1936, backwhen the street was known as Brooklyn Ave. Since1928, this family owned and operated business hasbeen serving the Latino community.


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43 Esteban Torres High School4211 Dozier St.

This high school is named for the CongressmanEsteban Torres, who represented the 34th distric tin the US House of Representatives, which includesEast Los Angeles, from 1983 until 1999. Torres, aleader in the labor movement, founded the East LosAngeles Community Union in 1968, which becameone of the nations largest anti-poverty agencies.This school was built in 2010 to ease crowding atGarfield High School, one of the high schools thatparticipated in the 1968 Chicano Blowouts.

44 Old Town MaravillaE. Cesar Chavez Ave. between Ford Ave. andMednik Ave.

Located at the heart of East Los Angeles, OldTown Maravilla is on the eastern end of E. CesarChavez Ave. (formerly Brooklyn Ave.) extends from

Ford Ave. to Mednik Ave. As part of the MaravillaRedevelopment area, this corridor was recentlyenhanced and renamed Old Town Maravilla forbranding and exposure purposes. This vibrant strip ofCesar Chavez is home to small businesses, family-runrestaurants, art boutiques, churches, service provid-ers, and the Maravilla Businesspersons Association.

45 East LA Civic Center4780 E. 3rd St.

Initiated by Supervisor Gloria Molina in 1999 andfinalized in 2007, this $30 million civic complexincludes a library, landscaped park and lake, nearbyskate park, childcare center, courthouse, County Hall,as well as a Gold Line Metro station. The Civic Centerwas built to centralize county services and revitalizeand enhance the surrounding area. The County Hall,within the Civic Center, serves as a City Hall to EastLos Angeles residents and is home to various CountyDepartments, as a Supervisorial Office. Apart frombringing local politics closer to ELA residents, thiscenter also serves as a meeting space for the commu-nity and hosts numerable events throughout the year.

46 Belvedere Park4914 E. Cesar Chavez Ave.

On August 29, 1970 more than 30,000 people gath-

ered to join a protest march that started in this parkand ended at what was then called Laguna Park in EastLA. Part of the Chicano Moratorium, a series of anti-war protests from 1969-71 that sought to bring aware-ness to issues of discrimination and police brutalityas well as the disproportionate number of Chicanosdying in Vietnam, the demonstration devolved intoa riot after police responded to the peaceful protestwith tear gas. Journalist Ruben Salazar was one of fourpeople killed as a result of the police violence. LagunaPark was renamed in his honor.


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SOURCES

The Los Angeles Conservancy laconservancy.org The Arts District Guide, Kids Guide to Broadway

Breed Street Shul Projectbreedstreetshul.org

Boyle Heights Historical Society boyleheightshistoryblog.blogspot.com

Chinatown Merchants Association oldchinatown.com

Citrus Label Society(via David Boule & Gordon T. McClelland)

Echo Park Historical Society historicechopark.org

Eugene W. Moy

Friends of the Los Angeles River folar.org

KCET Departures kcet.org/socal/departures

Landmark L.A.: Historic-Cultural Monuments ofLos Angeles by Jeffrey Herr(Angel City Press, 2002)

Little Tokyo Business Association visitlittletokyo.com

Little Tokyo Community Council littletokyola.org

LA Chinatown Business Council chinatownla.com

Los Angeless Bunker Hill by Jim Dawson(The History Press, 2012)

Los Angeles River by Ted Elrick and the Friends of theLos Angeles River (Arcadia Publishing, 2007)

Los Angeles River Revitalization Corporation larivercorp.com

Mural Conservancy of Los Angeles muralconservancy.org ,(especially Bill Lasarow and Isabel Rojas-Williams)

Street Meeting: Multiethnic Neighborhoods in Early Twentieth-CenturyLos Angeles by Mark Wild (University of California Press, 2005)


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VISIT WELLER COURT227 E. 2nd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90012

(Corner of 2nd St. & San Pedro)

Restaurants:

Cold Rush(shaved ice)COMING SOON!Tangerine ChineseRestaurant(213) 620-0588

Riverland

Koshiji Yakitori (213) 626-4989

Curry House(213) 620-0855

Gogi Tang(213) 346-9709

Orochon Ramen(213) 617-1766

Kushishabu Restaurant(213) 621-0210

Mako Sushi(213) 613-0083

Oreno Yakiniku(213) 680-0829

Entertainment:

Blue Whale Music(213) 620-0908

Kyokushin Karate of LA

(213) 923-3804

Beauty:

Vision Smart Center(213) 625-1740

JUST the BERRIES(213) 613-9807

Hair Craft (213) 625-2033

Shopping:

Marukai Market(213) 893-7200

Kimonoya (213) 626-0789

Kinokuniya Bookstore(213) 687-4480

Vantage Sports Shop(213) 617-0875

Business:

Bank of the West(213) 625-2628

Asahi Insurance Agenc y

Lalloo Weeks Office


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Additional support provided by

Gavia Coffee

Crain & AssociatesAIA Los Angeles

Chipotle

Southwest Air

Bank of America

LA

Metro presents


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October 5, 2014 is the10thCicLAvia since 10/10/10

Join the Power of 10 campaign and helpus bring 10 more CicLAvias to LA County

ciclavia.org/power

CicLAvia: Heart of L.A.

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