Last year’s earthquake may have given Christchurch a shake-up, but locals remain unstirred: this South Island hub is ready to share its enticing blend of top-end eateries, cute cafes and quirky nightspots. The surrounding region of Canterbury has much to offer, too, from world-class wines in Waipara to offbeat bars in the port town of Lyttelton, and French bistros on the Banks Peninsula. Team that with spectacular scenery, local markets and cooking schools, and you have an exciting foodie destination just a hop from Australia.

shoulder. For dessert, a glass tile topped with dainty portions of creme brulee, lemon posset, rhubarb crumble and chocolate mousse is a fun, frivolous end to a seriously good meal. 190 Ferry Rd, Phillipstown, +64 3 371 9333.

PESCATORE There’s something wonderfully playful and a tad tongue-in-cheek about chef Reon Hobson’s food. Take his starter of chips and dip for example, which teams a paper bag of beetroot, kumara, red onion and smoked

christchurchRESTAURANT SCHWASSAsk local chefs for a recommendation and they’ll all point you in the same direction. Jonny Schwass – New Zealand’s answer to René Redzepi – is turning out supremely smart fare at his acclaimed fine diner. From his petite rooftop garden, Jonny harvests heirloom beetroot for a tart with goat’s curd and hazelnut crumble, and delicate herb flowers to adorn plates of snapper brandade with kina (sea urchin roe), or seared lamb loin with slow-braised

Sarah Lewis loses herself in a land where local produce and wine reign supreme – and discovers a vibrant restaurant and cafe scene that could be New Zealand’s best-kept secret.

christchurch& surrounds

wordS SARAH lEWiS PhotograPhy STEPHEN gOOdENOUgH

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salmon ‘chips’ with a bowl of herbed creme fraiche; or the textural delight of turbot with crab pot-stickers, cauliflower mayonnaise and an apple reduction. The restaurant itself is equally cutting-edge, with a Philippe Starck-esque foyer leading into the dimly lit dining room of plush black carpet and large-scale flora prints from local photographer Stephen Goodenough. The George, 50 Park Tce, Christchurch, +64 3 371 0257.

CHiNWAg EATHAiThis dark and deeply handsome space offers a nod to Sydney’s Jimmy Liks and Longrain in both its clean, modern approach to Thai and sleek fit-out of silk lanterns, curved timber walls and communal tables. Sip a cooling watermelon and ginger cocktail at the bar while you graze on seared scallops with slivers of green apple, then sit down to a banquet of mandarin-cured tuna and crispy caramelised pork hock. Owner Tony Astle’s well-conceived wine list is loaded with aromatic

gewurztraminers and Waipara rieslings, which partner perfectly. 161 High St, Christchurch, +64 3 365 7363 (also at 131 Victoria St, Christchurch).

ST. gERMAiN Get your French fix at this neat little brasserie, run by three brothers from Brittany. Start with goat’s cheese soufflé or pork rillettes before moving onto a rib-sticking cassoulet and finish with a wicked chocolate fondant. The almost exclusively French wine list is worth lingering over, as it reveals a covetable assembly of Chablis,

Burgundy and Sauternes. 121 Worcester St, Christchurch, +64 3 366 9046.

French bistro favourites are also handled with aplomb at La Petite-Croix (SOL Square, 96 Lichfield St, Christchurch, +64 3 964 5260), where you’ll find soupe au pistou, coq au vin and tarte Tatin all served within a tiny, richly decorated den.

C1 ESPRESSOThis isn’t you’re average coffee shop. Owner Sam Crofskey is making waves throughout the Pacific by kickstarting the coffee trade in Samoa, employing local farmers to grow beans for export. To best appreciate this and other boutique brews, order your coffee in a traditional Chemex filter, a 1950s method of slow extraction

Clockwise from far left: the seaside village of Akaroa; Holy Smoke is known for its bacon; moody dining at Chinwag Eathai; Pescatore’s turbot with crab pot-stickers; Reon Hobson of Pescatore. 

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that emphasises the beans’ delicate fruity notes. Visit Sam’s original High Street cafe for an awesome all-day breakfast menu and pinball, or head to his Poplar Lane branch around the corner, which is sleeker and more subdued. 150 High St, Christchurch, +64 3 379 1917.

HOlY SMOKEHoly Smoke serves up brunch worthy of a Tasman crossing. The on-site smokehouse turns out fabulous streaky bacon (order it with eggs and thyme-flecked hash brown) and smoked warehou fishcakes served with hollandaise. Old-school dinner options include ribs with coleslaw and hand-cut chips. Stop by the deli counter on your way out for salmon, duck and ham in various smoky guises. 650 Ferry Rd, Christchurch, +64 3 943 2222.

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Another great casual dinner spot is Burgers and Beers. Its High Street home was rocked by the quake, so the boys have taken up new digs at Malbas Bar (cnr Manchester St and Cashel St, Christchurch, +64 3 366 3339). Their cheeky menu runs from the Tree Hugger vego burger to the Super Bugger Burger with the lot.

After dark, tourists flock to a host of drinking holes on Oxford Terrace, including Liquidity (128 Oxford Tce), Bangalore Polo Club (136 Oxford Tce) and Sticky Fingers (Clarendon Tower, Oxford Tce) for cocktails overlooking the Avon River.

We prefer the cobblestoned Lichfield Lanes precinct, where you can take your pick of Italian bars and boutique breweries. At the charismatic Poplar Lane Brew Bar (Ash St, Christchurch, +64 3 379 7023), there’s an impressive range of preservative-

free draft beers. Across the alleyway, The Twisted Hop (6 Poplar St, Christchurch, +64 3 962 3688) is more low-key, with views into the working brewery and a staggering line-up of Kiwi beers on tap.

Nearby SOL Square (South of Lichfield) also pumps at night, offering everything from pints at Irish pub His Lordships (+64 3 366 3225) to Japanese bites at Ishimoto (+64 3 964 5282).

CHRiSTCHURCH FARMERS’ MARKETHeld at Riccarton House every Saturday (9am-12pm), the Christchurch Farmers’ Market brings together the region’s best producers. Along with local fruit and veg, free-range eggs, Canterbury meats and Waipara wines, you’ll find Amanda McBeath’s J’aime les Macarons stand, offering delicate macaroons in flavours such as quince or salted caramel; imported French cheeses at Fromage; and Cornish pasties to nibble on while you browse. 16 Kahu Rd, Riccarton, +64 3 348 6190.

Clockwise: C1 Espresso serves serious coffee with a not-so-serious attitude; heirloom beetroot tart at Restaurant Schwass; Christchurch innovator Jonny Schwass.

THE gEORgEOne of New Zealand’s top boutique hotels, The George offers the perfect blend of chic rooms and an environmentally friendly approach. The lodgings range from contemporary executive rooms to sumptuous Park Suites. Dining options include Pescatore and 50 on the Park, a relaxed all-day eatery that offers fab breakfasts of smoked-groper hash with poached eggs, or homey porridge with banana compote. From NZ$332 per double per night. 50 Park Tce, Christchurch, 1800 121 980, thegeorge.com.

ORARi BEd & BREAKFASTThis sprawling guesthouse, just opposite the Christchurch Art Gallery, offers that home-away-from-home appeal. There are well-trod Persian rugs, an eclectic array of original artworks, a book-filled lounge area, communal dining room, and comfortable bedrooms with country-style furniture and ensuite bathrooms. Next door, the more modern Orari Apartments are perfect for long-term stays. From NZ$190 per double, including breakfast. 315 Montreal St, Christchurch, +64 3 365 6569, orari.co.nz.

waiparaAn easy 40-minute drive north of Christchurch brings you to this wine region, where high summer temperatures, low rainfall and lingering autumns provide perfect ripening conditions for aromatic whites and earthy pinot noirs.

NOR’WESTER CAFEAhead of a day of tasting, call in to Trish and Tim Coleman’s Nor’Wester Cafe for excellent regionally focused fare, where buttermilk waffles or the Windjammer breakfast of bacon, black pudding, mushies and eggs will set you in good stead. Later in the day, clever local wine matches to dishes such as Texel lamb with white bean puree make this an appealing lunch or dinner spot, too. 95 Main North Rd, Amberley, +64 3 314 9411.

PEgASUS BAYWaipara’s best-known winery teams world-class drops with a stellar dining experience. Start with a tasting in the cellar, working your way up from the citrussy Bel Canto riesling to a honeysuckle-like off-dry version, and the syrupy botrytis riesling. A rich chardonnay and elegant pinot noir are other highlights. Next, grab a table on the lawn and share a regional platter laden with salumi, terrine and housemade ricotta, or the roast duck for two. 263 Stockgrove Rd, Waipara, +64 3 314 6869.

MUd HOUSEWith vineyards in Central Otago, Marlborough and Waipara, Mud House offers a good cross-section of the South Island from its immense sandstone cellar door. After sampling both Mud House and Waipara Hills wines, try one of the cafe’s famed pies – go wild with a venison and merlot version, or opt for a ‘tame’ pie of pinot-spiked lamb ragu. 780 Glasnevin Rd (on Hwy 1), Waipara, +64 3 314 6900.

TORlESSE WiNESAustralian-born winemaker Kym Rayner cut his teeth in McLaren Vale, before working for Penfolds in Gisborne and then

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Clockwise from far left: Inca the kelpie at Green Olive Estate; Merricks General Wine Store; their housemade muesli with vanilla yoghurt.

Clockwise from left: relaxed dining at Mud House; The George’s fine diner Pescatore; and their citrus cured salmon with creme fraiche, sea grapes and avocado.

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Marlborough behemoth Montana (now Brancott Estate). He’s now turned his hand to aromatic, food-friendly whites in Waipara, offering finely tuned riesling, gewurztraminer, sav blanc and a slick pinot gris under Torlesse and Omihi Road labels. Loff Hagen Dr, Waipara, +64 3 314 6929.

gREYSTONE WiNESAnother Aussie causing a stir is Nick Gill at Greystone Wines. At the unassuming cellar door, try Nick’s honey-toned riesling, perfumed gewurztraminer and beautifully structured, savoury pinot noir. 376 Omihi Rd, Waipara, +64 3 314 6100.

BlACK ESTATEBlack Estate may be open by appointment only, but keep an eye out for its outstanding pinot noir on wine lists around town. The award-winning ’07 vintage is becoming increasingly scarce, but luckily we think the ’08 is just as good. They do a fine, richly textured riesling, too. 614 Omihi Rd, Waipara, +64 3 310 6930.

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SEAgARS AT OXFORdOn the way back to Christchurch, take a detour to Oxford, where you’ll find one of New Zealand’s favourite food personalities, Jo Seagar. Here, she runs a cooking school, cafe and B&B. Book a class in anything from Umbrian classics to cheesemaking, then bed down in a studio or apartment (from NZ$180 per double). 78 Main St, Oxford, +64 3 312 1435.

lytteltonJust 20 minutes south of Christchurch, the harbour town of Lyttelton has a slightly quirky, earthy feel, with its retro clothing shops, dark and eclectic bars, organic grocers and rocking coffee dens.

MONSTER BARThis hip alleyway haunt dishes up some of the best yakitori this side of Tokyo. Order skewers of bacon-wrapped scallops or seared venison, then round things out with salty edamame and crunchy cabbage salad. Tattooed staff, cartoon artworks, chilled sake and beer add to the rock ’n’ roll vibe. 29 London St, Lyttelton, +64 3 328 9166.

WUNdERBAR Another understatedly cool drinking den is Wunderbar. Its off-beat charm comes from the slightly creepy dolls’ head decorations, foosball tables, live music most nights and the elusive bathrooms, which are lined with pages from 1950s magazines (locals revel in watching first-timers try to find them, so befriend a regular to avoid embarrassment). 19 London St, Lyttelton, +64 3 328 8818.

lYTTElTON COFFEE COMPANY A weekend DJ playing Bob Marley sets the tone for this feel-good cafe and coffee roaster, housed in a converted butchery with antiques hanging off the walls. On top of the mismatched tables, you’ll find old-school Grolsch lager bottles filled with tomato sauce, ready to splash over your big breakfast. The espresso is excellent. 29 London St, Lyttelton, +64 3 328 8096.

Clockwise: Truby’s on the beach is an  Akaroa institution; Ant and Lou Bentley of  

Akaroa Cooking School; fish and chips at Truby’s.

FREEMANS For a relaxed weekend lunch, book a table on the sun-drenched deck. Nick Freeman’s short bistro menu includes grilled rib-eye with straw potatoes and bearnaise, or a roast chook, avocado and pancetta salad. The largely NZ wine list features handy tasting notes and many by-the-glass drops. 47 London St, Lyttelton, +64 3 328 7517.

Across the road, Ground (44a London St, Lyttelton, +64 3 328 7275) stocks regional and imported deli goods, including French cheese, housemade terrines and Canterbury cured meats. Meanwhile, organic grocer Lyttel Piko (12 London St, Lyttelton, +64 3 328 8544) offers Japanese ingredients, produce and natural beauty products.

Lyttelton Farmers’ Market (Lyttelton Main School, Oxford St, Saturdays, 10am-1pm) has stands of Peninsula Preserves’ feijoa jelly, smoked fish, Brew Moon ales and more. Grab a bacon buttie to go, then head up the hill to the bric-a-brac market.

For a little indulgence, travel around the harbour to She Chocolat (79 Main Rd, Governors Bay, +64 3 329 9825). Chocolatier Oonagh Browne shares her enthusiasm for the dark stuff with fudgy brownies, spiced hot chocolates and truffles in flavours such as salted lemon caramel and tequila.

THE liTTlE BiSTRO We’ve got a lot of love for The Little Bistro, from the sultry background notes of Nina Simone to the relaxed dining room and hand-typed menus. What Welsh-born Paul Howells dishes up is just as appealing, with a seafood cassoulet that brims with mussels, clams, gunnard and prawns. End the night with rhubarb and ginger soup with feijoa gelato, and if you’re lucky, a glass of Granny Suze’s sparkling feijoa wine. 33 Rue Lavaud, Akaroa, +64 3 304 7314.

VANgiONi’S TRATTORiASteve Bradley’s rather fabulous tapas plates are peppered with flowers from his sun-drenched courtyard and greens from his folks’ nearby farm. Highlights include house-cured bresaola, beef carpaccio with sliced radish, seared tuna with salsa verde made from herbs from the garden, and handmade chorizo with garlicky prawns. The woodfired pizzas are a favourite, too. 40f Rue Lavaud, Akaroa, +64 3 304 7714.

A trip to NZ isn’t complete without some fish and chips, so pull up a stool on the waterfront at Truby’s (83 Rue Jolie, Akaroa, +64 3 304 7707), where they serve towering plates of their famed blue cod and chips en plein air. Or, head to Bully Hayes (57 Beach Rd, Akaroa, +64 3 304 7533) for casual, family-friendly bites by the sea.

akaroaJust when you think the white-knuckled drive through twisting mountain roads will never end, up pops a view of breathtaking Akaroa harbour. Ninety minutes south of Christchurch, this seaside town on the Banks Peninsula was first settled by the French in the 1840s, and still boasts that Gallic charm today. On your way to Akaroa, take some time to visit farmgate stalls for asparagus, honey and walnuts, then call into The Little River Cafe, Store & Gallery (Main Rd, Little River, +64 3 325 1933) for a Fairtrade coffee, hokey pokey ice cream and a wander through the gallery.

the guide.

Clockwise from above left: water glimpses from every suite at Maison de la Mer; a relaxing moment at Maison de la Mer; Steve Bradley of Vangioni’s.

AKAROA COOKiNg SCHOOlBesides the dazzling harbour, one of Akaroa’s greatest drawcards is Lou and Ant Bentley’s cooking school. A four-day gourmet roadtrip takes small groups on a treasure hunt for produce (from fishing and crabbing to shooting hares), before turning each day’s bounty into a feast. 81 Beach Rd, Akaroa, +64 21 166 3737.

MAiSON dE lA MERCarol and Bruce Hyland ran five-star accommodation in Auckland for 11 years before opening this boutique lodge in 2004, and that pedigree shows. Three suites feature antique furniture and spectacular views; the separate Boathouse also offers a kitchenette and private balcony. Carol’s breakfast includes fruit with homemade yoghurt and muesli, and eggs en cocotte or scrambled with Akaroa salmon. From NZ$350 per double, including breakfast. 1 Rue Benoit, Akaroa, +64 3 304 8907, maisondelamer.co.nz.

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Akaroa Village Inn offers a range of options around town, from waterfront suites to three-bedroom apartments, ideal for families. From NZ$110 per double. 81 Beach Rd, Akaroa, +64 3 304 1111. d.Thanks to Tourism New Zealand (tourismnewzealand.com), Christchurch & Canterbury Tourism (christchurchnz.com) and Emirates (tel: 1300 303 777 or emirates.com). Emirates offers daily flights to Christchurch from Sydney.

Akaroa Butcher and Deli ................... 13Akaroa Cooking School ..................... 13Akaroa Farmers’ Market ................... 13Akaroa Village Inn ............................. 13Bangalore Polo Club ............................7Barry’s Bay Traditional Cheeses ....... 12Black Estate ........................................1Bully Hayes ........................................ 13Burgers and Beers ..............................7C1 Espresso .........................................7Chinwag Eathai ....................................7Christchurch Farmers’ Market ............6Freemans ............................................9Greystone Wines ..................................1Ground .................................................9His Lordships ......................................7Holy Smoke .........................................8Ishimoto ..............................................7La Petite-Croix ....................................7Liquidity ...............................................7Lyttel Piko ............................................9Lyttelton Coffee Company ...................9Lyttelton Farmers’ Market ..................9Maison de la Mer ............................... 13Monster Bar ........................................9Mud House...........................................3Nor’Wester Cafe ..................................4Orari Bed & Breakfast .........................7Pegasus Bay ........................................3Peninsula General Store ................... 13Pescatore ............................................7Poplar Lane Brew Bar .........................7Restaurant Schwass ............................8Seagars at Oxford ................................5She Chocolat ..................................... 10St. Germain .........................................7Sticky Fingers ......................................7The George ..........................................7The Little Bistro ................................. 13The Little River Cafe,  Store & Gallery .............................. 11

The Pepper Tree Cafe ........................ 13The Twisted Hop ..................................7Torlesse Wines ....................................2Truby’s ............................................... 13Vangioni’s .......................................... 13Wunderbar ..........................................9

Sit in the leafy front garden of The Pepper Tree Cafe (41 Rue Lavaud, Akaroa, +64 3 304 7241), for breakfasts of fruit crumble or pikelets, or a lunchtime panini filled with pastrami, pickles and coleslaw.

If you’d prefer a picnic lunch, visit Akaroa Butcher and Deli (67 Rue Lavaud, Akaroa, +64 3 304 7038) for freshly baked baguettes, manuka-smoked salmon, ham and a neat range of cheeses, smallgoods, condiments and wine. Across the road, Peninsula General Store (40e Rue Lavaud, Akaroa, +64 3 304 8800) stocks organic fruit and veg, plus imported pastas, oils and sauces. Further afield, Barry’s Bay Traditional Cheeses (Main Rd, 5801 State Hwy 75, +64 3 304 5809) produces European-style cow’s milk cheeses, including nutty edam, gouda and havarti.

On Saturdays, visit the Akaroa Farmers’ Market (Rue Lavaud) for award-winning La Casa Toscana olive oils, Folly Farm quince jelly, Fadel’s addictive hot lime pickle and Gruff Junction goat’s cheeses.

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