Chile JONATHAN CANE LARISA GRBIC - withtankmedia.withtank.com/365ff5d11e/wanted_aubrey.pdf ·...

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UPFRONT TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHY JONATHAN CANE concierge LARISA GRBIC The Aubrey, Santiago, Chile SANTA LUCÍA HILL BOCANARIZ WINE BAR MUST VISIT The Aubrey boutique hotel in Santiago, Chile INDEPENDENCE DAY Enjoy a bottle of Viu Manent Secreto Carmenere from the Colchagua Valley at Bocanariz wine bar in Barrio Lastarria, a historic neighbourhood and popular tourist hub. bocanariz.cl This hill is a beautifully landscaped park where the grassy verges are still a favourite with canoodling couples. A web of trails and steep stone stairs leads you up through terraces to the La Torre Mirador where you are rewarded with panoramic views of the city. Libertador General Bernardo O’Higgins Avenue Galería Isabel Aninat art gallery. Terremoto drink from La Piojera Centro Cultural Gabriela Mistral (GAM) Craft product from Fundación Artesanías de Chile. Cherimoya or bubblegum fruit 12 AUGUST 2013 WANTED Join locals at fondas or fairs in local parks to dance, eat, drink, play traditional games and watch rodeo. The Fiestas Patrias or Independence Day celebrations last for three days, but the festive mood starts much earlier with the sounds of traditional songs playing everywhere and people dancing cueca — a Chilean national dance which re-enacts the courting ritual of a rooster and a hen. September 18 Santiago a Mil International Theater Festival. Viu Manent Secreto Carmenere wine Larisa Grbic, from The Aubrey, has become something of a wine expert since she moved to Chile. She’s been in Santiago for two years now, after almost a decade of interpreting for the International Peacekeeping Mission in Bosnia, and is one of the charming and articulate personalities at Santiago’s only true boutique hotel. Where’s the party? La Piojera (www.lapiojera.cl ), (in)famous for its terremoto earthquake drink, is one of the oldest (and sketchiest-looking) bars in Santiago. The terremoto is an ice-cream float of vino pipeño (sweet fermented wine), pineapple ice cream and Fernet liquor. The bar’s name is ascribed to former president Arturo Alessandri who was invited by working-class men to drink and exclaimed: “What is this place, a flea house?” Thus La Piojera: where fleas live. Alternatively, you can’t go wrong with Club La Feria (www.clublaferia.cl ) and famous gay club Bunker (www.bunker.cl ). Best local food? El Hoyo (www.elhoyo.cl ), near Gustave Eiffel’s Estación Central in downtown. At La Vega Central Market (www.lavega.cl ) there are many little eateries dotted between the vendors where locals go for fresh, healthy, cheap food. Outdoor activity? Biking through stately Parque Forestal and walking up San Cristóbal Hill behind The Aubrey. The views of the city and the Andes from the statue of the Virgin Mary are spectacular. Architecture? Just up the road from the ancient fountains and monuments of Santa Lucía Hill is the architecturally bold Centro Cultural Gabriela Mistral (GAM) by Cristian Fernandez and Lateral Arquitectura (www.gam.cl ). A library, theatres and public spaces now incorporate and reinvent government buildings that were once part of Augusto Pinochet’s violent dictatorship. Restaurant? Restaurant Peumayén (@RestoPeumayen ) innovates locavore cuisine by plating up ancestral food — contemporary gastronomy based on the ancient foods of pre-Hispanic cultures of the Mapuche, Rapa Nui, Aymara, Ona and Atacameños. Look forward to a six-types-of-bread platter made from traditional recipes and methods. Any events we shouldn’t miss? The Santiago a Mil International Theater Festival (www.santiagoamil.cl ) is on for the first three weeks of January. The atmosphere in the city is very special during that time. Every stage in the city shows world-class theatre, dance or music, and every street, square and plaza becomes a stage for the 296 indoor and 90 public space performances. Markets worth a visit? Mercado Central (www.mercadocentral.cl ) for fish and seafood and La Vega Central Market for fruit and vegetables. Look out for unique varietals of potatoes and corn, including black corn, and try the so-called bubblegum fruit, cherimoya. Best place to buy crafts? Pueblito Los Dominicos and Fundación Artesanías de Chile (www.artesaniasdechile.cl ). Best place to find traditional dishes? Pastel De Jaiba (Chilean Blue Crab Pie) from El Mesón Nerudiano (www.elmesonner udiano.cl) and Charquicán, a dried- beef stew with squash, corn and potatoes, from Galindo (galindo.cl ). Of course, lots of types of empanadas are available in Santiago, but these are typically Latin American, not Chilean. Art gallery? Galería Isabel Aninat (www.galeriaisabelaninat.cl ) is the country’s oldest and most respected private gallery. Spa? Balthus (www.balthus.cl ). The Aubrey, www.theaubrey.com

Transcript of Chile JONATHAN CANE LARISA GRBIC - withtankmedia.withtank.com/365ff5d11e/wanted_aubrey.pdf ·...

UPFRONT

TEX

T &

PH

OTO

GR

APH

Y JO

NAT

HA

N C

AN

E

conc

ierge

LARI

SA G

RBIC

The Aubrey, Santiago, C

hile

SANTA LUCÍA HILL

BOCANARIZ WINE BAR

MUSTVISIT

The Aubreyboutique hotel

in Santiago,Chile

INDEPENDENCE DAY

Enjoy a bottle of Viu Manent Secreto Carmenere from theColchagua Valley at Bocanariz wine bar in Barrio Lastarria,a historic neighbourhood and popular tourist hub.b o ca n a r i z . c l

This hill is a beautifullylandscaped park where the

grassy verges are still afavourite with canoodling

couples. A web of trails andsteep stone stairs leads you up

through terraces to the La TorreMirador where you are

rewarded with panoramicviews of the city.

Libertador General BernardoO’Higgins Avenue

Galería IsabelAninat art gallery.Terremoto drinkfrom La Piojera

Centro CulturalGabrielaMistral (GAM)

Craft product fromFundación

Artesanías de Chile.Cherimoya or

bubblegum fruit

12 AU G U S T 2013 WA N T E D

Join locals at fondas or fairs in local parksto dance, eat, drink, play traditionalgames and watch rodeo. The FiestasPatrias or Independence Daycelebrations last for three days, but thefestive mood starts much earlier with thesounds of traditional songs playingeverywhere and people dancing cueca— a Chilean national dance whichre-enacts the courting ritual of a roosterand a hen.September 18

Santiago a MilInternational TheaterFestival. Viu ManentSecreto Carmenere wine

Larisa Grbic, from The Aubrey, has becomesomething of a wine expert since she moved toChile. She’s been in Santiago for two years now,after almost a decade of interpreting for theInternational Peacekeeping Mission in Bosnia, andis one of the charming and articulate personalities atSantiago’s only true boutique hotel.

Wh e re ’s the party? La Piojera (w w w. l a p i o j e ra. c l ),(in)famous for its terremoto earthquake drink, is oneof the oldest (and sketchiest-looking) bars inSantiago. The terremoto is an ice-cream float of vinopipeño (sweet fermented wine), pineapple icecream and Fernet liquor. The bar’s name is ascribedto former president Arturo Alessandri who wasinvited by working-class men to drink andexclaimed: “What is this place, a flea house?” Th u sLa Piojera: where fleas live. Alternatively, you can’tgo wrong with Club La Feria (w w w. c l u b l a f e r i a. c l ) andfamous gay club Bunker (w w w. b u n k e r. c l ). Best localfood? El Hoyo (w w w. e l h o yo. c l ), near Gustave Eiffel’sEstación Central in downtown. At La Vega CentralMarket (w w w. l a v e ga. c l ) there are many little eateriesdotted between the vendors where locals go forfresh, healthy, cheap food. Outdoor activity? Bikingthrough stately Parque Forestal and walking up SanCristóbal Hill behind The Aubrey. The views of thecity and the Andes from the statue of the VirginMary are spectacular. Architecture? Just up the roadfrom the ancient fountains and monuments of SantaLucía Hill is the architecturally bold Centro CulturalGabriela Mistral (GAM) by Cristian Fernandez andLateral Arquitectura (w w w. ga m . c l ). A library,theatres and public spaces now incorporate andreinvent government buildings that were once partof Augusto Pinochet’s violent dictatorship.

R e s t a u ra n t ? Restaurant Peumayén (@ Re s t o Pe u m a ye n )innovates locavore cuisine by plating upancestral food — c o n t e m p o ra r ygastronomy based on the ancient foods ofpre-Hispanic cultures of the Mapuche, RapaNui, Aymara, Ona and Atacameños. Lookforward to a six-types-of-bread platter madefrom traditional recipes and methods. A nyevents we shouldn’t miss? The Santiago a MilInternational Theater Festival(w w w. s a n t i a g o a m i l. c l ) is on for the first three weeksof January. The atmosphere in the city is veryspecial during that time. Every stage in the cityshows world-class theatre, dance or music, andevery street, square and plaza becomes a stage forthe 296 indoor and 90 public space performances.Markets worth a visit? Mercado Central(w w w. m e r ca d o ce n t ra l. c l ) for fish and seafood and LaVega Central Market for fruit and vegetables. Lookout for unique varietals of potatoes and corn,including black corn, and try the so-calledbubblegum fruit, cherimoya. Best place to buycrafts? Pueblito Los Dominicos and FundaciónArtesanías de Chile (w w w. a r t e s a n i a s d e c h i l e. c l ). Bestplace to find traditional dishes? Pastel De Jaiba(Chilean Blue Crab Pie) from El Mesón Nerudiano(www.elmesonner udiano.cl) and Charquicán, a dried-beef stew with squash, corn and potatoes, fromGalindo (ga l i n d o. c l ). Of course, lots of types ofe m pa n a d a s are available in Santiago, but these aretypically Latin American, not Chilean. Art gallery?Galería Isabel Aninat (w w w. ga l e r i a i s a b e l a n i n a t. c l ) isthe country’s oldest and most respected privategallery. Spa? Balthus (w w w. ba l t h u s. c l ).

The Aubrey, www.theaubrey.com