Chapter 18

Braiding and Braid Extensions

•Origins in Africa

•Different styles

~ social status

•More important the person, the more elaborate

the braids were

Amyhairbraiding.com

Ehow.com

Cedarartworld.com

•Today

~ signals self-esteem and self-image

•Africa

~ handed down from generation to generation

•Investment of time

•African cultures

~ opportunity for women to socialize and form relationships

•Today

~ salons practice “natural hairstyling”

•No chemicals

~ does not alter the natural curl or coil pattern

•For people of all ethnicities

•Diverse approach to hair care

•With proper care

~ can last up to three months

~ 6-8 weeks preserves the health of the hair

•Investment in time and money is high

•Detailed consultation

~ ensures a happy ending

•Fill out client card

~ update every appointment

Ehow.com

Hometownhairbraiding.com

Hair Analysis

Consultation:

~ condition of hair and scalp

~ texture (3 qualities)

1. Diameter

~ coarse, medium, or fine

2. Feel

~ oily, dry, hard, soft, smooth, coarse, or wiry

3. Wave pattern (coil configuration)

~ straight, wavy, curly, or coiled

•Coil

~ very tight curl

~ spiral in formation

~ when stretched,

resembles loops

• “Textured hair”=

tight coil pattern

Manandchic.blogspot.com

Consider:

•Density

~ where hair is thin

•Condition

~ damage and breakage

•Length

~ physically long enough

•Scalp health

~ healthy/properly cared for

Read FYI

Page 517 Oval Face

•Most braids are appropriate

Round Face

•Add height

***Asymmetrical creates a slenderizing look

•High on top

*secured below the crown in back

Hairweb.org

Hairbytowanda.com

Pabeautystation.co.uk

http://www.natural-hair-care-info.com/cornrow-gallery.html

Square face

•Longer braids to frame the face

Inverted Triangle (Heart) Face

***Partial bangs

***Frame the face

***Fullness at chin

Triangular (Pear) Face

•Bring braids forward at chin line

http://braids.nicehairstyles.net/tag/micro-braids-hairstyles-2/

Oblong Face

***Full styles

***Partial bangs

***Medium length

***Avoid middle parts

•Side chignon

Morris-roots.com

Tools for Braiding

Boar-bristle brush

~ stimulates scalp

~ removes dirt and lint

•Soft nylon brush

~ fine

~ soft hair at hairlineCherrybrook.com

Square paddle brush

~ releases tangles, knots, and snarls

~ cushion of air (bristles collapse with resistance

*prevents breakage in fragile hair

Vent brush

~ gently to remove tangles

~ wet or dry hair

•Use on human hair extensions

•Check tips

~ even if one is missing/discard

fbi4u.com

Cachebeauty.com

Wide-toothed comb

~ teeth width

~ medium to large

•Avoidsscratching the scalp

•Allows textured hair to move between rows of teeth

Cosmeticmarket.com

Double-tooth comb

~ separates the hair

~ detangles wet hair

Tail comb

~ for design parting

~ sectioning large segments

~ opening and removing braids

Beauty-relaxation.co.za

Finishing comb

~ 8 to 10” in length

~ used while cutting

~ fine/straight hair

Beautystore.com

Cutting comb

~ for small sections

~ use after hair is softened and elongated with blow-dryer

Pick with round teeth

~ lifting and separating

*** one in kit

Blow-dryer with pick nozzle

~ dries, stretches, and softens

Diffuser

~ dries without disturbing the finished look

Folica.com

$187.00

Five-inch scissors

~ creates shape and finished look

~ trims bangs (fringe)

~ excess extension material

Long clips

~ separates into

large sections

Sleekhair.com

Butterfly and small clips

~ separates into various sections

Hooded dryer

~ remove excess moisture before blowdrying

Small rubber bands or string

~secure the ends

Read: State Regulatory Alert

Extensions

Extension fibers-list to follow

Hackle

~ board of fine upright nails

~ used to detangle and

blend colors

Hairlineillusions.com

Drawing board

~ flat leather pads with close and fine teeth

~ sandwich the human

hair extensions

madeinchina.com

Materials and Extensions

•The fibers you use will determine

~ how successful

~ durable the extension will be

•Buying new product:

~ buy in small quantities

~ test the fiber on a mannequin first

Human hair

~ gold standard

~ imported from Asia

~ little information about the process

~ is it 100% ?

~ deal with suppliers you know and trust

Vogishchic.info

Kanekalon

~ manufactured, synthetic fiber of excellent quality

~variety of types, colors, textures

***less shine

Madeinchina.com

Tradeeasy.com

~ some are high-heat resistant

~ durable, soft, less tangling

~ holds up to shampooing and styling

***costs more/better quality

Nylon or rayon synthetic

~ less expensive

~ varying qualities

~ reflects light/very shiny

~ known to cut or break the hair

~ repeated shampooing=less durable

~ will melt if high heat is applied

Samantha140508.blogspot.com

Whyareyouyelling.blogspot.com

Yarn

~ made of cotton or nylon blend

~ very inexpensive

~ light, soft, and detangles easily

~ available in many colors

~ matte finish

~ expands when shampooed

* will not slip

~ appear black in store/shows blue or green tint in natural light

Quinnster,fgdn.net

Lin

~ wool fiber from Africa

~ matte finish

~ only in black and brown

~ comes in roll

~ any length and size

~ very flammable

                                     

Yak

~ strong fiber

~ domestic ox

~ use alone or blend with human hair

~ mixed helps to remove manufactured shine

2001everest.com

Wellbanklochans.co.uk

Tradeindia.com

Working With Wet or Dry Hair

~ best dry/wet shrinks

~ tension leads to breakage

~ wet-allow for shrinkage

~ straight, resistant hair

*coat with wax or pomade

Read Caution

~ if shampooed, apply leave-in conditioner

~ use wide-toothed comb

* detangling comb

~ blow-dry the hair

~ wax, pomades, gels, or lotions can be used

~ use large paddle brush

~ start at ends to remove tangles

~ textured hair is

* very fragile/wet and dry

~ blow-dry quickly

* softens

* more manageable

~ loosens and elongates wave pattern * easier “pick-up”

* manipulation of the hair

Braiding the Hair

•Classified

~ visible or invisible

Visible braid

~ three-strand braid

~ underhand technique

~ left and right sides woven under center strand

***used for cornrows

cute2try.hairdos.blogspot.com

Invisible braid

~ three-strand braid

~ overlapping

~ overhand technique

~left and right strands go over the middle one

Amothers’journal.com

Hairboutique.com

Rope Braid

•Two strands

~ twisted around each other

~ on one-length or long, layered hair

~ add to both sides before twisting

***done on dry hair

Farm2static.flickr.com

Fishtail Braid

•Simple two-strand braid

~ hair picked up from sides

~ added to the strands as they are crossed over each other

*** done on dry hair

~ non-layered hair, at least shoulder length

Hairboutique.com

Electricbanana.typepad.com

Invisible Braid

•On or off the scalp

•With or without extensions

•Straight layered hair-use wax or pomade

Single Braids

Terms: single, box, individual

~ all refer to free-hanging braids

~ with or without tension

~ either underhand or overhand stitch

~ all hair textures

Subsections

~ square

~ triangular

~ rectangular

~ parting determine where braid is * how it moves

~ moves in any direction

Math.buffalo.edu

Naturallyyoumagazine.blogspot.com

Amandahairbraiding.com

•Extensions

~ for single braids

* integrated into the natural hair

~ select synthetic hair, yarn, or human hair

~ vital in the finished style

~ must be consistent and close together

Picasaweb.google.com

•During consultation

~ open package

~ verify that color is correct

~ cut to desired length

~ place on drawing board

~ place a heavy object on top

~ allows easy extract

~ can be separated and dispensed free-hand

Cornrows

•Or canerows

~ narrow strips of visible braid

*lie close to the scalp

~ on-the-scalp technique

~ consistent even partings

www.freshafroeuropeansalon.co.uk/page8.htm

~ mannequin to practice

* speed

*accuracy

* finger and wrist dexterity

~ worn by men, women, and children

www.naani.com/cornrows-photos-gallery

Combination cornrow with single braids in backMaasaibraids.com

~ various lengths and textures

~ elaborate designs

~ skill and creative expression

~ can last several weeks without extensions

~ two months with extensions

Cornrows with Extensions

~ feed-in method

~ built up strand by strand

~ excess extension material

* too much weight on fragile hairline

* leaves an unrealistic finished look

~ correct tension eliminates artificial look

*prevents breakage

www.latinhairbraids.com/index.php/examples/form/

•Traditional

~ flat, natural, and contoured

~ partings define the finished style

~ creates a tapered or narrow base at the hairline

~ extension hair

* fills in the base

~ takes longer

~ lasts longer

~ looks more natural

•When picking up hair

~ directly underneath

~ never comes from another panel

~ or extended up into the braid from a lower part

•Overextending or misplacing the beginning of the extension

~ leaves hair exposed and unsupported

~ leads to breakage and hair loss especially at hairline

Tree Braids

•Newer way to add hair for longer looks

•Client’s hair is braided along with extension

•Finished look shows mostly faux hair

http://stylesbyjamille.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=65745800

http://images.google.com/imgres?q=tree+braids+styles&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=619&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=Dkap13ZK90cnnM:&imgrefurl=http://www.nonyehairbraiding.com/nonye/specialty.php%3Fmghash%3D6d..%26mggal%3D8&docid=EKGRDarDDzUlWM&imgurl=http://www.nonyehairbraiding.com/nonye/studio/images/8/pic_10.jpg&w=448&h=299&ei=idmBT6iiHY_iggfp9bzsBw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=706&vpy=222&dur=22&hovh=183&hovw=275&tx=105&ty=100&sig=117154882344098738236&page=4&tbnh=135&tbnw=192&start=63&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:10,s:63,i:234

•Takes about 4 hours

•Techniques are still evolving

•Many ways to do them.

•You can read on if interested in these braids.

Locks

•Or dreadlocks

~ hair that is intertwined and meshed together

~ forms a single or separate network of hair

~ without chemicals

~ several slow phases

~ can take six months to one year

To cultivate locks

~ double twisting

~ wrapping with cord

~ coiling

~ braiding

~ or not combing or brushing

•Rastafarians of Jamaica

~ natural course will cause it to lock

(Rasta is a religion of respect of all living things and self-respect)

•Cultivated African locks ~ have symmetry and

balanceMagicdragon.org

Comb Technique

•Early stage

~ while the coil is still open

~ place comb at base of the scalp

* with a rotating motion

* spiraling the hair into a curl

~ comb moves down to the end

~ gives a tight coil

~ excellent on short hair

Palm Roll

~ gentlest

~ guides it through all the natural stages of locking

~ apply gel to dampened subsections

~ place portion of hair between palms of both hands

~ roll in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction

~ move down the coil shaft

•Partings are:

~ directional

~ horizontal

~ vertical

~ bricklayered

•Decorative designs

•Sculpting patterns are creative options

Rastafarian.info

Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com

Braids or Extensions

~ involves sectioning the hair

* single braiding

~ synthetic fiber, yarn, or human hair * added to single braid to form a

lock

~ after several weeks, braid will grow away from the scalp

~ palm roll used to cultivate the new growth to form a lock

Coolmenshair.com/2008

Associatedcontent.com

Micro braidsMerchantcircle.com

Womensbeautylife.com

Pro.corbis.com

Picasaweb.google.com

Senegalese twists

*Synthetic hair

Tree braidsLonghaircareforum.com

Kinky twistsMerchantcircle.com