Chapter 12 - Weeblywaukeefcs.weebly.com/uploads/3/7/7/4/3774158/chapter_12_notes.pdf · Chapter 12:...

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Beyond Design

By Sandra J. Keiser and Myrna B. Garner

PowerPoint developed by Elizabeth Law

Copyright ©2009 Fairchild Books

•  All rights reserved. No part of this presentation covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means–graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems–without written permission of the publisher.

ISBN: 978-1-56367-960-5

GST R 133004424

Quality Assurance

Chapter 12 Beyond Design

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Chapter 12: Quality Assurance

© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 4

Chapter Objectives

•  Define concept of quality •  Understand role of quality in product

development process •  Relate concepts of quality in a firm’s

standards to written quality specifications for products


© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.



Chapter Objectives

•  Know government and voluntary requirements for product labeling and safety standards in apparel products

•  Understand basics of stitch, seam, and edge finish requirements for production of quality products

•  Become familiar with array of criteria used to evaluate quality of products before, during, and after assembly





A Product Development Perspective on Quality

•  Quality assurance – achieve consistent quality product

•  Commitment to quality permeates entire business

•  Requires proactive, participatory management



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•  Every employee at every level is involved in trying to achieve error prevention, working with management team to achieve goals

•  Making it right the first time less expensive than deciding what to do with seconds











•  Apparel quality – Physical features of design, materials,

construction, and finishing – Part of the physical construction of product

•  Quality performance – Aesthetic (quite subjective) – Functional



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•  Functional performance – Utility and durability – Usefulness (fit, comfort, care) – Durability

•  retain appearance after purchase •  shrinkage resistance •  seam strength




•  Quality assurance is based on defect prevention rather than detection

•  Market-driven •  Conformity to standards and specifications

meet or exceed customer quality expectations






•  Product Quality has two dimensions – Physical features of product involve what the

product really is – Performance features involve what product

does



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Quality Standards

•  Raw material standards – used to communicate with suppliers during planning stages; help define components used in production of finished garments

•  Garment standards – diagnostic tools to measure the quality of product; defect guides (major and minor)

•  Firms doing business with the EU may need to conform to ISO standards





Quality Specifications

•  Evolve from company standards, but more detailed

•  Specification Libraries—accessibility to previously developed style, pattern, and measurement specifications that can be recalled and reused





Quality Specifications

•  Voluntary Testing Methods—on raw materials, sample garments

•  AATCC—‘wet’ or chemical testing methods •  ASTM—‘dry’ or physical testing methods

•  Sizing Specifications •  Measurements for every size •  Finished garments outside tolerances are

unacceptable

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Labeling Standards

•  Mandatory Labeling Requirements – Fiber Content – Textile Fiber Products

Identification Act (TFPIA) – Wool must be identified; anything over 5 percent total weight

– Manufacturing – FTC identification number or brand name for each manufacturer

– Country of Origin – critical issue when imported (tariffs, trade agreements)

– Care Labeling Rule – permanent





Labeling Standards

•  Voluntary Labeling – Trademarks – Warranties and Certification

•  Implied Warranty – products do what they are designed to do (raincoat repels water)

• Written - legally binding (shrinkage) • Most voluntary labeling is marketing tool

– Union Labels – Size Designation – Voluntary but universal;

EU requires European sizing and metric units Chapter 12: Quality

Assurance © 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of

Condé Nast Publications, Inc. Chapter 12: Quality

Assurance © 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of

Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 18

Safety Regulations

•  Flammability – Flammable Fabric Act – affects mostly infant

and children’s sleepwear in sizes 0-6X and 7 to 14

– Requires use of fabric finishes to retard or prevent spread of flames



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Safety Regulations

•  Drawstrings and Small Parts – Concerns about risks of children strangling

or choking; drawstrings – Rules apply to snaps and buttons; size,

pull strength, and sharpness of trim items regulated





Preproduction Activities Related to Fabric, Findings, and Trim

•  Quality issues addressed – Fabric testing, setting specs for fabric,

findings, trim – Small sample fabric yardage – crocking,

wrinkle resistance, colorfastness, weather resistance

– All components compatible – Thread – stringent criteria to prevent seam

failure





Specifications for Stitches, Seams, and Edge Finishes

•  Stitches – configurations of thread that form stitching and seams

•  Majority of stitches made on lockstitch machine or chain-stitch machine

•  Commercial stitches are divided into six stitch classes



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Stitches

•  Stitch classes based on: – complexity – configuration –  type of machine required to form the stitching

•  Each class has distinct advantages and disadvantages





Stitches

•  Stitch Classes – 100 stitch class – single-thread chain stitches – 200 stitch class – hand stitches, machine

imitations – 300 stitch class – lockstitches – 400 stitch class – multithread chain stitches,

interlooped – 500 stitch class – overedge stitches,

interlooped – 600 stitch class – cover stitches, interlooped





Stitches

•  Safety stitches – Two parallel rows that produce very secure

seam – Generally, shorter stitches produce more

durable seams – 10-12 stitches per inch is average



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Specifications for Stitches, Seams, and Edge Finishes

•  Seams – stitching holding fabric pieces together

•  Seam allowance – extension between the row of stitching and the edges of the fabric





Seams

•  ASTM International Standard Practice for Seams and Stitches - four seam classes: –  Superimposed seams (SS) –  Lapped seams (LS) –  Bound seams (BS) –  Flat seams (FS)

•  Other ASTM International classes (bridge between stitches and seams): –  Ornamental stitching (OS) –  Edge finishes (EF)





Seams

•  Superimposed Seams – Most used class – Booked seam—layers stacked to prepare – Enclosed seam—done in two stages – Graded—layers trimmed to remove bulk

•  Lapped Seams – Most variations – Many very specialized



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Seams

•  Bound Seams – Edges of seam enclosed in tape – Used on easily raveled edges, bulky fabric

•  Flat Seams – Used rarely – Look same on both sides – Little bulk

•  Edge Finishes—hems and facings



Assembly

•  Overall quality standards for garment – Fit evaluated and approved before production – Styles must allow ease for comfort, movement – Garments free of wrinkles, unless part of

design – Vertical seams perpendicular to floor





Assembly

•  Overall quality standards for garment (cont.) – Hems parallel to floor –  Interlining, interfacing, and lining compatible

with shell fabric in weight, color, and care – Linings must not hang below hem or distort

shape

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Tolerances

•  Tolerance – difference between allowable minimum and maximum on process or measurement –  If finished garment falls between those specs,

acceptable –  If it goes under or beyond the tolerance,

rejected – Some specs require exact levels, called

minimums (example, number of buttons)





Construction Criteria

•  Finished garments inspected to determine if they comply with written specs –  In-process inspection – on manufacturing floor

where corrections can still be made – End inspection – after product is finished;

more waste – too late to correct flaws – To ensure acceptable quality levels in finished

garment, criteria must be established and communicated before production





Dealing with Flawed Products

•  Garments inspected when they come off production line or when they arrive at firm’s distribution center to check compliance with written specs

•  If not found to be first-quality (meet specs) –  repaired to join first-quality products – sent back to contractor as unacceptable – disposed of as irregulars



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Dealing with Flawed Products

•  Inspection Rate – Small quantity, very high cost garment - all – Very large order, random sample; if these

garments meet specs, entire lot is passed; if flaws are found, may inspect all and separate flawed pieces; may simply reject entire lot

– Even with all precautions, human error may run about 6 percent

– Well-written spec packages boost potential of receiving first quality and reduce costs



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