Chap 11 Rappelling

Ventura County Search and Rescue Team 3

Training Manual Chapter 11 Rappelling

CHAPTER 11 - RAPPELLING

Rappelling, or roping down, is a system by which a person descends a fixed rope and controls

their descent using rope friction. The preferred way to reach a subject in need of technical

evacuation is to somehow get above the subject by the simplest and quickest manner and rappel

down to the subject from above. Although rappelling is simpler and more direct than climbing,

many alpine injuries occur while the climber is on rappel. A rescuer who is aware of the potential

for problems while on rappel will use justified caution.

RAPPEL ANCHORS

Refer to Chapter 10 Anchors for a complete description of anchors.

Anchors used on a rappel should be able to withstand the weight of the rescuer plus any shock

load that may result from slack manifesting itself along the way. Shock loads are created by

sudden stops along a rappel and their force is dependent upon the speed of rappel and the speed

at which the stopping is executed.

During cliff hanger rescue operations where there may be two persons, the rescuer and subject,

on the rappel line, the anchor should be able to withstand the weight and shock load of the two

people.

An anchor with holding strength of 2,000 lbs is preferable. The ideal anchor is a sturdy tree,

shrub, or rock projection. Mechanical anchors may also be used, or a combination of the two.

Rappel anchors should be able to withstand a load in varying directions. Body anchors can be

utilized if the rappel grade is not substantial, but sturdy natural anchors are preferable. Whenever

possible, the rescuer should be belayed utilizing a completely redundant belay system and belay

anchor.

ESTABLISHING THE RAPPEL

Select a route free from underbrush and loose rocks, if practical, and be sure the rope will

reach bottom or a safe zone where the rescuer can lock off onto local anchors or transfer

to a subsequent rappel line. If the rescuer cannot be completely certain the rope will reach

the bottom, the rescuer must tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope to prevent rappelling

off the end. For a double rope rappel, the rescuer needs to ensure both ends reach the

bottom, or have separate stopper knots on both ends.

If the rope will remain fixed at the anchor site, a Figure Eight on a Bight is tied into one

end and the knot is attached to the anchor. If the rope is to be retrieved from the bottom

of the rappel (with the anchor abandoned or retrieved later), then a bight of rope at the

center of the rope is fed through the carabiner at the anchor for a double rope rappel.

Once the rappel line is secured into the anchor, the line is thrown down the rappel path.

The rescuer should verify the path is clear, and even when clear the person throwing the

Version 4.01 - April 28, 2010 11-1


Chapter 11 Training Manual

Rappelling

rope should yell "Rope" a few seconds prior to actually throwing the rope.

The rope should not be thrown if there is heavy vegetation or a possibility that the rope

bag may hit the subject or dislodge rocks above the subject. The rope bag can be attached

to the back of the rappeller and feed from the bag as the rappeller descends. This method

should be used for short rappels when using a Rescue 8 descender, as rope twisting

caused by the Rescue 8 will not distribute through the short length of rope and may jam

in the descender on long rappels.

The rescuer first attaches to and activates a redundant belay. If in close proximity to the

cliff edge, the rescuer must be attached to a tag line until attached to the belay and rappel

lines.

The rescuer then attaches to the rappel line with the rappel device being used and

removes all slack from the rope.

The safety officer or edge person will check the rappeller to make sure the harness is

correct, all carabiners are locked, descending devices are threaded properly, and the

rappeller has their proper safety equipment. The safety equipment includes helmet and

gloves. Goggles are highly recommended.

The rappeller clears their intention via voice command with the operations leader, and

then proceeds to lower themselves over the edge.

In all forms of rappelling, it is helpful to lean back and

assume a body position perpendicular to the cliff face during

descent, as shown in Figure 11-1.

TYPES OF RAPPEL

There are two basic reasons to perform a rappel. One reason is

during a search where the rescuer simply needs to descend

down a steep grade such as a cliff or the side of a building.

Another reason is during a rescue operation where the rescuer

rappels down to access a subject. Although both reasons have

an element of risk, a rappel during a rescue operation to access a subject requires that proper

equipment and techniques be deployed to minimize the risk to the subject. While certain rappel

techniques such as the military wrap are acceptable for personal rappels, they should not be

utilized during a rescue operation such as a cliff hanger situation.

Rescue 8

The Rescue 8 is the primary type of rappel technique used by SAR#3 for rescue operations. This

employs a specialized piece of hardware known as a Rescue 8 descending device. Rescue 8s are

larger versions of the standard sport Figure 8s adapted for rescue use.

To initiate a Rescue 8 rappel, the rappeller stands to either side of the rappel line, forms a bight

in the rappel line and inserts the bight into the larger opening of the Rescue 8 from the bottom.

Figure 11-1: Rappel Position

Version 4.01 - April 28, 2010 11-2



The rappeller then places the rappel line over the outside of the smaller opening of the Rescue 8.

The small opening of the rappel device is then clipped into the rescuer's sit harness using a

locking carabineer.

Left Handed Right Handed

Figure 11-2: Rescue 8 Rappel Line Routing

The routing of the rappel line can be placed so that the rescuer may use

either their left or right hand as the braking hand as shown in Figure 11-2

For most rappels, the rescuer will use the hand closest to the rope exiting

the Rescue 8 as their braking hand. Additional braking strength may be

found by wrapping the rappel rope around the body and using the

opposite hand as the braking hand. Additional friction can be gained by

adding an additional wrap on the Rescue 8 descender, as shown in Figure

11-3.

The Rescue 8 descending device is larger than the sport version. This

allows for rappelling on static rescue lines, which are stiffer and generate

more friction. The Rescue 8 has "Ears" to aid in locking off the rappel

device. Some Rescue 8s have a third middle hole which may be used to

clip in another person for an assisted rappel to safety. Other Rescue 8s

have an attachment hole large enough for two carabiners.

Of all rappel types, the Rescue 8 provides the most control. It has stable lock-off and speed

control and, absent major component failure, cannot be accidentally released from the rappel

line. The disadvantages are the need for a specialized piece of gear (however the Rescue 8 is

used for other SAR work) and a tendency to twist the rope, which could make the rappel difficult

on long rappels over 300 to 400 ft.

MRA Lock-off

The major advantage of using a Rescue 8 Descender in SAR is the fact that the rappeller can

quickly and securely stop in the middle of a rappel and lock-off the Rescue 8. This allows the

rappeller the free up both hands and tend to the subject.

Figure 11-3: Double

Wrap Rescue 8

Version 4.01 - April 28, 2010 11-3



Rappelling

The lock-off used by SAR#3 is commonly known as the MRA lock-off. Figure 11-4 describes

the lock-off technique for a right-handed rappeller.

Stop rappelling and grip the rope tightly to the Slide the rope between the upper rope and the Rescue 8 with the left hand Quickly bring the Rescue 8 a second time. rope up with the right hand and slide the rope between the upper rope and the Rescue 8, pulling down firmly

Wrap the lower rope around and feed a bight of Flip the bight over the ears of the Rescue 8. Pull

the rope through the hole from behind. on the lower rope to make the lock-off tight

against the Rescue 8.

Figure 11-4: MRA Lock-Off

Brake Bar Rack and ATC Devices

The Brake Bar Racks are an acceptable rappelling device for rescue operations, although not

primarily used by SAR#3. The rescuer should be fully familiar with the operation of the Brake

Bar Rack before use.

ATC (Air Traffic Controller) devices are used for personal rappelling and should not be used for

rescue operations.

Military Wrap

Military rappelling is a way to rappel down a steep cliff when a Rescue 8 device is not available.

Version 4.01 - April 28, 2010 11-4



To start a military rappel for right hand braking:

1. The rappeller stands to the left of the rope, facing the anchor; and grasps the rope in front

of them.

2. The rope is snapped into a locking carabineer from front left to right

rear, as shown in Figure 11-5.

3. To reduce the friction between rappelling rope and sit harness, two

carabineers may be used.

4. The direction of the wrapping is important. Two or three loops are

wrapped onto the carabineer as desired, depending on: the load, the

angle of descent, and the speed desired. The braking hand is

brought back behind the buttocks to brake.

5. Always "wrap" the rope between the anchor and the carabiner.

The advantages of the military rappel are that it utilizes a minimal amount

of gear (a carabiner) and is more comfortable than a Dulfersitz. However

the carabineer gate can accidentally open if the rope is fed improperly, even when a locking

carabiner is locked properly. Also there is no easy way to lock off the rappel directly without the

use of a Prusik or an ascender.

Hasty Rappels

Hasty rappels are intended as assists down

steep grades where the rescue would tend to

slip and have difficulty walking down if the

rappel line were not present. The hasty rappel

operates much like a handrail for a steep slope.

This technique may only be used on slopes of

60 degrees or less and is a judgment call for the

operations leader. See Figure 11-6.

To start a hasty rappel:

1. The rappeller faces sideways to the anchor and places the rope across the top of the back.

2. The rappeller then extends their arms outward to the sides and grasps the rope from

behind.

3. The descent is made sideways, with the hands braking as needed by tightening the grip.

4. For a more secure stop, the rope in the downhill hand can be brought across the front of

the body.

Advantages are that the rappel can be quickly applied, using no special equipment.

Disadvantages include a minimum of control, and the reliance on friction over a small part of the

Figure 11-5:

Military Wrap

Figure 11-6: Hasty Rappel

Version 4.01 - April 28, 2010 11-5



Rappelling

body to stop if needed. (This is usually only a problem if a hasty rappel is used on too steep of an

incline.)

Dulfersitz

The Dulfersitz is intended as an emergency rappel that uses no extra gear to effect the rappel. All

that is needed is a rappel line and the rescuer. The Dulfersitz should be used in SAR only in

extreme situations where the proper equipment is not available and the subject needs to be

accessed quickly.

To start the Dulfersitz:

1. The rappeller faces the anchor and straddles the rope.

2. The climber then reaches behind and brings the rope around either side of the hip, then

diagonally across the chest, and then back over the shoulder on the opposite side as

illustrated in Figure 11-7.

3. The neck area is the most vulnerable area of the body during this rappel. The shirt collar

should be pulled up high to protect the neck and a slow speed should be utilized to keep

heat to a minimum.

4. The climber should lead with the braking hand and should face slightly sideways. The

foot corresponding to the braking hand should precede the other at all times. Lean out at a

sharp angle to the rock, keeping the legs spread.

5. The downhill hand is the braking hand. Braking is accomplished by bringing the braking

hand to the front of the body and across the chest. This increases friction and stops the

descent.

The main advantage of this rappel is that no extra gear is necessary. This may allow a rescuer to

reach and injured subject quickly if they are a short distance away. The disadvantages are the

lack of safety and a minimum of control.

Figure 11-7: Dulfersitz

Version 4.01 - April 28, 2010 11-6



BELAY SYSTEMS FOR RAPPEL

There are several systems that can be utilized to belay a rappeller. The decision on the type of

belay system depends on the nature of the rappel and number and location of assisting rescuers.

Redundant Belay

This type of belay is preferable because it guards against a failure in any part of the rappel

operations. The rappeller is belayed with a separate safety rope and anchor. This type of belay

provides the most amount of protection as the belay system protects against a failure anywhere in

the primary anchor, rappel line, or with the rappeller.

The redundant belay should be used for rescue operations in which a second person may become

attached to the rappeller.

Bottom Belay (a.k.a. Firemans Belay)

To incorporate a bottom belay:

1. The safety rescuer assumes a standing buttocks belay on the lower end of the rappel line,

leaving some slack to allow the rappeller free movement.

2. If the rappeller looses control, the safety rescuer leans back, creating tension on the

rappel line. The resulting friction on the rappeller's descending device arrests the fall.

3. In the event the rappeller is rendered unconscious, the safety rescuer can also control the

entire descent of the rappeller by applying lesser or greater tension on the rope.

This type of belay is helpful in the event the rappeller loses control but is of no help in the event

of anchor or rappel line failure.

Caution: The bottom belay can be very dangerous to the belayer, who will be in direct line of any

dropped gear or rocks kicked loose by the rappeller or subjects

Prusik Belay

To incorporate a Prusik belay:

1. Attach the rappel device to the rappel line.

2. Tie a Prusik hitch onto the rappel line above the rappeller's rappel device.

3. Clip the Prusik to the sit harness using a separate carabiner.

4. The feeling hand (hand other than the braking hand) is used to slide the Prusik hitch

down the rappel line as the rappeller descends.

5. Should the rappeller fall, the Prusik should be released which will arrest the fall.

Version 4.01 - April 28, 2010 11-7



Rappelling

6. This belay does not protect the rappeller from potential failures in the anchor or the rope

itself.

A variation of the standard Prusik belay is to place a second line in parallel with the rappel line

and attach it to a separate anchor. In this case the Prusik would be connected to this second line.

In the event of any failure in the primary anchor or rappel line, the rappeller would be protected.

A dedicated belayer is not required for a Prusik belay. The rappeller must use caution so the

Prusik does not become inadvertently hung up during the rappel.

Use of a Prusik to provide an extra degree of safety when operating on a locked rappel line is a

good idea. Also, a Prusik attached to the rappel line is often used as a utility anchor for the

rappeller to hold gear while the rescuer is working over the side of a cliff.

A Prusik belay can be used on a double rope rappel by placing the Prusik hitch around both

ropes.

DOUBLE ROPE RAPPELS

A double rope rappel is used when the climbing rope must be retrieved from below after the last

rappeller has descended. This is necessary if the total descent is longer than the available rope or

if it would be impossible otherwise to recover the rope.

To prepare for a double rope rappel, double the rope around an anchor at the rope midpoint,

making sure that the rope will run freely when one side of the line is pulled. If two ropes are

knotted together, keep the knot to one side of the anchor. The side with the knot is pulled for

retrieval. If the anchor is not smooth enough to allow the rope to run freely when one side is

pulled from below, tie a section of webbing around the anchor, and snap in a carabineer. Run the

climbing rope through the carabineer at the mid point, being sure that the rope will run freely.

The webbing and carabineer are irretrievable with this method.

A similar method can be used to provide a separate line for a Prusik belay.

It is important to verify that the rope will move freely when pulled from the

bottom of the rappel. During the descent the rappeller should remove any

rope twists that may complicate or prevent pulling the ropes cleanly from

below.

When descending a large wall, one may tie two ropes of equal length

together to provide a longer rappel length for each anchor used. It is

important in this case to remember on which side of the anchor the knot is

located so that the rope retrieval pull will move the knot away, and not into

the anchor. It is critical on long-wall rappels, unless the rescuer is

completely sure that both ends of rope are on the deck, that stopper knots

are tied on both ends of the rope. This minimizes the possibility of, but

does not guarantee, rappelling off the end of the rope.

Figure 11-8:

Double Rope

Rappel

Version 4.01 - April 28, 2010 11-8



To rappel on the double ropes, treat the two rope sections as a single rope. This is applicable to

all forms of rappelling, including the Dulfersitz. Figure 11-8 demonstrates the threading of a

double line through a Rescue 8.

When clearing the rope from below, verify that no knots are present in the rope. Taping the ends

of any knots that are used to combine ropes will help prevent hang ups in rock cracks or brush.

Begin by pulling smoothly on the knot side of the rope. Some force will be required to counteract

the rope friction generated by the rope lying on the rock face.

RAPPEL COMMANDS

When rappelling during an operation, it is helpful to advise people when the rappeller is going to

be active. People below will know to watch for rock fall, and the operation leader will know the

rappeller is en route. The following commands and responses should be utilized. The belay

commands are used when a redundant belay being used.

Command By Whom Action Taken

"on belay" Rappeller Rappeller is telling the belayer they are ready to begin. Belay commands are not necessary if the rappeller is self belaying.

belay on Belayer Rappeller is told the belayer is ready.

"rappelling" Rappeller Rappeller is starting their descent or approaching the edge. Can be repeated if the rappeller has stopped and is now descending again

"rappel on" Safety or Belayer

Confirming that the rappeller may proceed. Given each time the rappeller gives the rappelling command to acknowledge the command.

"off rappel" Rappeller The rappeller has completed their descent, is in a secure location, and has disconnect from the rappel line.

"off belay" Rappeller The rappeller has disconnected from the belay line.

belay off Belayer The belayer may terminate belaying.

up rope Rappeller The belay line may be pulled up.

"on rappel" Rappeller Rappeller is secured onto the rappel line, ready to descend

"rappel on" Safety Confirming that the rappeller may proceed

"rappelling" Rappeller Advising the Rappeller is starting the descent

"off rappel" Rappeller The rappeller is off the rappel line and belay line if applicable

"rappel off" Safety Acknowledging "off rappel" command

Table 11-1: Rappel Commands

PASSING A KNOT WHILE ON RAPPEL

When it is necessary to connect two or more ropes together to extend a rappel line all the way

down to the bottom, the SAR#3 member should be able to rappel past the knots in the rappel

line. Belays should be in effect when a rappeller needs to pass knot, preferably a redundant

belay. When a rappeller knows that they will be passing a knot, the rappeller should start with a

Prusik belay on the rappel line even though a redundant belay is in effect.

Version 4.01 - April 28, 2010 11-9



Rappelling

To pass a knot the rappeller should have, in addition to normal rappelling gear, a minimum of

two extra Prusiks, three carabiners and two short runners. Extra gear should be taken in case a

problem arises. (A spare descender might be nice in case the original is dropped in the knot pass

process.)

There are different approaches to successfully pass a knot. Each rescue should determine which

method is best for them.

Method #1

1. The rappeller descends as normal. As the knot approaches slow progress.

2. When the knot hits the brake hand, stop. Lock the Prusik belay so that it will take the load

of the rappeller.

3. If possible, feed the knot through the rappel device and lock it off.

4. Place a second Prusik just below the knot and attach the Prusik to the harness.

5. If the knot does not feed through the rappel device, disconnect the rappel device, reattach

it below the second Prusik, and lock it.

6. Disconnect the first Prusik. This can be done a few ways.

7. Using the rope as a step:

a. Wrap the rope around a foot to create a step

b. Pull up the rope that is wrapped around the foot to a point above first Prusik and

hold both ropes

c. Step up on the rope and loosen the first Prusik

8. Using a runner as a step:

a. Attach a third Prusik just above the first and connect a runner long enough to

create a step

b. Step up on the runner and loosen the first Prusik

9. Lower until the rappellers weight is transferred onto the rappel device.

10. Remove the first Prusik.

11. Unlock rappel device and continue rappel.

Method #2

1. As the knot approaches from below, connect the Prusik to the rappel line above the rappel

device. Connect this Prusik to the harness using carabiners and a runner. (This must be

done one handed, or lock-off first.)

2. Continue lowering, keeping the Prusik close to the rappel device. Lock the Prusik just

prior to the knot reaching the rappel device.

Version 4.01 - April 28, 2010 11-10



3. If possible, feed the knot through the rappel device. Otherwise the rappel device can be

disconnected from the rappel line and the harness (but do not drop the Rescue 8). After

the Rescue 8 is re-attached below the knot it is not necessary to lock it off, but some

prefer to do so.

4. With weight completely on the Prusik, form a temporary step in the rope below the

Prusik by raising a leg and wrapping the foot with the rope a few times. Bring the slack

rope from below the foot up and hold it to help with friction. Release tension on the

Prusik by standing up on the foot-wrap-step, with both hands on the rappel line overhead

for stability. (The brake hand is now holding both ends of the rope, but the Rescue 8

braking force is the weight on the step up.)

5. Using one hand, the Prusik is loosened or removed. The rope is held by the braking hand

just below the Rescue 8, and the rappeller lowers themselves on the foot-wrap-step until

the weight is transferred to the Rescue 8.

Version 4.01 - April 28, 2010 11-11



Rappelling

"You l ive up - or down -

to your expec tat ions." --

Lou Hol tz

Version 4.01 - April 28, 2010 11-12

CHAPTER 11 - RAPPELLINGCHAPTER 11 -RAPPELLING RAPPEL ANCHORS ESTABLISHING THE RAPPEL TYPES OF RAPPEL Rescue 8 MRA Lock-off

Brake Bar Rack and ATC DevicesMilitary WrapHasty Rappels Dulfersitz

BELAY SYSTEMS FOR RAPPEL Redundant Belay Bottom Belay (a.k.a. Firemans Belay) Prusik Belay

DOUBLE ROPE RAPPELS RAPPEL COMMANDS PASSING A KNOT WHILE ON RAPPEL Method #1 Method #2

Chap 11 Rappelling

Documents

Transcript of Chap 11 Rappelling