CBS - Wirrabara May 2014v1 · 2019-08-26 · (Bonsai% Pocket%Encyclopedia,page! 147)! tells! us!...

WIRRABARA May 2014

Canberra Bonsai Society Incorporated PO Box 800, Woden, ACT 2606 ABN 19 826 976 490 ISSN 1035-‐3291 www.cbs.org.au The Canberra Bonsai Society meets on the FIRST Saturday of each month (except in October & January) Meeting time 9.00am to 1.00pm Location: Hughes Community Centre, Wisdom Street, Hughes.

Inside Wirrabara Editor’s Message.

We have a long-‐standing habit of having somewhat formal meals on weekends. It is a good excuse to use the better cutlery and crockery while listening to good music, all with the benefit of a nice bottle of wine. In many ways, the origins of this habit are the dinner parties we used to hold and attend in the 1970s, before anyone had kids. Sound familiar?

The table never seems to be properly set for occasions like this without a bunch of flowers. Flowers from the garden are an option, but I am sure many of us have bought lots and lots of flowers that, at today’s value, would routinely cost around $50 a bunch. It would be just a little scary to think about the total cost.

Thank you to all of the city’s florists, whose contribution to our enjoyment of life is enormous. But I have to say that a beautiful bonsai on the dining table adds to the ambience of the meal in a way that a bunch of flowers does not.

The photograph shows a how bonsai has added an extra string to our dinner party décor.

Having a bonsai on the table also provides a unique opportunity to look at it, think about it and plan its next improvement. But mostly, it just adds to the quality of the occasion.

Table space permitting, they also create a talking point for guests.

Phil R

CBS Communications Editor’s Message President’s Report

May meeting Club Notices April meeting

CBS Life members #4 From the Workbench Jobs for May Formal upright style

2014 program Club administration Executive Committee Event Calendar 2014

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President’s Report Mick Balzary’s pine workshop was a very informative and enjoyable morning for all who participated. While even the most experienced learnt something from the workshop, those to whom working with pines is still quite new left with a wealth of new information and a much improved pine bonsai. Some still have a way to go and Mick has generously offered them further help.

In my report for May 2013 I commented on Yuusuke Uchida’s legacy to us through sharing his extensive knowledge of how to develop and maintain black pines as bonsai. Grant Bowie gained much first-‐hand knowledge by working closely with Uchi during his time at the NBPCA. Armed with this knowledge, Grant offered to run a series of four workshops over two years (each May and November) to help people with advanced pine stock or bonsai in need of refinement. Fortunately,

he said that if there was enough demand he could run more than one group. If you have looked at the latest information on Grant's Advanced Pine Workshops that can be found under Members Info, you will see that we are running three groups and the participation list has been expanded to include the four workshops in the series. It is essential to do the May workshop first as this will prepare the trees for the spring growth. If you

missed this year, you may have an opportunity to ‘opt in’ or join a new group in May 2015. The participation list for observers is still available if you would like to be an observer at one of the Workshops.

In offering to run workshops on pines, Mick and Grant have obviously identified an unmet need. I look forward to some excellent pines in our show in a few years’ time. We may even have a special award for pines in the future.

The first beginner’s workshops are now completed and a second

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set of workshops will be offered. See dates later in the newsletter. Thank you to Wayne Dunn, Jim Miller and Roger Wimhurst for their very able assistance with these workshops. Plans are well under way for our soil mix components and orders for the potting mix close at the May meeting.

Shannon Young, the new Assistant Curator for the NBPCA, takes up his position on 5 May. You can find some background information about Shannon at his website: http://youngbonsai.com.au/ and admire some of the bonsai in his gallery http://youngbonsai.com.au/gallery.html. I know CBS member will make Shannon very welcome.

And remember, bring something for Show and Tell or you may not get any morning tea!

Ruth

May 2014 Meeting The theme for Show and Tell is ‘Shohin’. The featured plant is the Juniper. The meeting workshop will concentrate on creating jins and sharis.

Shohin-‐bonsai

I have a book on Shohin with the lovely title: Majesty in Miniature – Shohin Bonsai – unlocking the secrets of small trees by Morten Albek and Wayne Schoech. The book tells us that ‘Shohin is the Japanese word for a tiny thing. Though not all

Shohin are tiny, they are all small. Like all bonsai, Shohin is a relationship between a human and a tree, and, like all art, Shohin has its own aesthetics. … In many ways, Shohin-‐bonsai is very much like larger bonsai. However, with Shohin, everything must be expressed in a simpler and more suggestive manner This demands precision. A single misplaced branch, or a few too many leaves can affect the harmony and naturalness of an arrangement’ (see page 1).

If measurements matter to you, this is what Albek and Schoech say:

Type Height Mini-‐ bonsai 7cm or less Mame-‐bonsai 7 to 10 cm Shohin-‐bonsai 10 to 25 cm Kifu-‐bonsai 25 to 35 cm Chuhin-‐bonsai 30 to so cm

They note that these measurements are only guidelines and should be taken lightly (page 7).

Some things to note with Shohin are:

• Shohin live in a very limited amount of soil and dry out much more quickly than large bonsai (page 17).

• The soil fills up with roots much faster than large bonsai, so you need to transplant more often (page 17).

• Leaf size matters: a tiny tree with over-‐sized leaves just won’t do (page 163).

• Varieties that develop strong trunks and aged looking bark are a big plus (page 164).

If, like me, you love Maples have a look at Peter Adams’ book Bonsai with Japanese Maples. He has a chapter on Shohin which has lots of great advice and photographs.

Jins and Shari

Throughout his book Bonsai Techniques II, John Naka calls a shari a ‘debarked trunk or branch’ (see index page 439).

Harry Tomlinson (Bonsai Pocket Encyclopedia, page 147) tells us that ‘The Japanese word shari is

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used for deadwood that is carved or torn down the trunk. Similarly damaged branches are given the Japanese word jin, which has no English equivalent; it is also used as a verb (‘to jin’) and an adjective (‘jinning pliers’)’. He says a design with extensive dead wood is called a driftwood design.

‘You can create driftwood, jins or shari by carving the dead wood on a bonsai, and then bleaching and preserving it with lime-‐sulphur solution. Alternatively, you can use any live branches surplus to your design. Cutting them off completely will scar the tree, but you can achieve an impressively aged effect by stripping them of bark, and then carving or tearing them to make the bonsai look as if it has been naturally damaged by thick snow or strong winds.’ (Tomlinson p 147)

There is a mass of information on jins and shari on the Internet. Here is a few interesting points:

• A jin is a bare-‐stripped part of branch and a shari is a barkless part of a trunk.

• If two dead branches occur, one above the other, a shari can be made connecting them.

• Creating Jin or Shari on deciduous trees often looks unrealistic, and deadwood on a deciduous tree often rots away over time.

• Treat jins with lime sulfur than wait until the wood is dry (months later) and then treat with wood hardener.

• Jins and Sharis are best done in Spring.

There will be a talk on jins and sharis at the May meeting.

Club Notices Collection of soil orders 17 May

For those of you who ordered potting mix (Martins Native Mix) it will be available for collection on 17 May at Michelle M’s place 13 MacDonald Place Spence.

Orchid pots and turntables

There will be some 30 cm orchid pots and some 25 cm turntables available at the May meeting.

• The orchid pots are great for training a bonsai. They provide quite a large root run, but they are quite shallow and this produces root that will be very suitable for later transplantation into a bonsai pot.

• The turntables are a great way to display your bonsai – even your trainees – because they allow us to rotate the pot

regularly thus keeping the light even on all sides of the tree.

If you need orchid pots or turntables, see the Treasurer at the May meeting.

Pine project – prize at December meeting

Noting that no one brought in their pine project trainees to Show and Tell at the April meeting, the Executive has decided to increase the encouragement to participants to share what they are doing and learning. We have decided to move the awarding of a prize from the November to the December meeting, and will be using Wirrabara to keep track of progress.

So, if you are a participant in the pine project, expect an email from the editor of Wirrabara asking for comments, photographs and any snippets that might be useful to others.

Winter dig?

It is quite a while since the club organised a dig. If you are interested, and you have an idea about what might be a good site for a dig, bring your thoughts to the May meeting.

Workshops

Dates and room bookings have now been confirmed for all workshops for 2014 -‐ see CBS Schedule in the newsletter (page 10). Participation lists for the two June workshops with Grant Bowie will be available from early May: 21 June -‐ Intermediate Styling Workshop and 28 June Carving Workshop. There will be 6 participants and 6 observers for each workshop.

The dates for the second Beginner's Workshop 2014 are 19 July and 16 August. There is a limit of 10 participants, there are still three places available. Go to the Participation Lists and log onto the Beginner’s Workshop.

CBS Badges Do you have a Canberra Bonsai Society badge? (they look like the picture to the right) and are available from the treasurer at all meetings, for $7.50. For members who have not yet purchased a badge, we encourage you to pick one up, and wear it at appropriate functions to advertise our society.

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April meeting Did you know that the difference between a plant in a pot and a bonsai is attention to detail? Ruth said that just before Show and Tell. She was quoting someone, but I didn’t catch who.

Other gems from Show and Tell are:

• If you want to wire a branch down, and need it to bend from quite close to the trunk, you can cut into the underside of the branch. By what people said, there are clearly number of options for how to make the cut (across the branch, along the branch or even using a branch splitter which creates both vertical and horizontal breaks in the branch which allows for more movement in the bend). I spoke to Roger after S&T to clarify what he and other said: cutting under the branch is best done with a thin saw such as a coping saw or even a hacksaw (even though it is designed to cut metal); make as many cuts as you need, spaced out along the length of the desired bend; cut around half way through the branch; bend it down so that the gaps made by the cuts close up (this is important so that the cambium layer can re-‐bind) and secure in place. Covering the cut area for protection is a good idea.

• When it comes to tying a branch down, one option is to use cable ties and wire or fishing line tied to a good strong wire wrapped around the pot. This is shown in the two photos below of Ruth’s Picea.

• Alan’s Azalea, which he dug from his

garden, had died on one side. Rather than treating this as a problem, he is now going to plant it into a pot that suits a tree growing to one side – a crescent moon pot.

• When you prune an azalea it is necessary to seal the cuts.

Thanks to Jeanette and Lek for helping out with Show and Tell. Thanks too, to Jim M for his workshop on wiring.

Also, welcome to new member, Anne D.

Jim’s workshop

Anne D and Mike W Jeanette H and Peter H

At the end of Show and Tell, Roger H reminded us that the Formal Upright style refers to the straightness of the trunk, not the styling of the rest of the tree. He referred us to John Naka. The reference is to Bonsai Techniques I, page 125. Thanks Roger.

CBS Life Members #4: Jim M Most CBS members will know Jim as a friendly chap who regularly brings in one of his beautiful trees to Show and Tell, and who is often called upon to give a presentation, run a mini-‐workshop or simply to share his knowledge on a one to one basis at our monthly meetings.

The record shows, however, that Jim has done much more than this for the club over many years: he served as President for 10 years between 1991 and 2005; he was on the show committee from 1988, including 20 years as show manager from 1991; he has been our AABC

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representative for the past 20 years; was the club’s BCI ‘ambassador’ for many years; and he has contributed many ‘From the Work Bench’ articles to Wirrabara. In 2004, when the CBS hosted the AABC Annual Convention, Jim was a member of the organising committee. Jim has also been, and still is, a major contributor to the NBPCA. More on that later.

Jim’s interest in bonsai dates to the early 1980s when he began ‘messing around with seedlings from the garden’. His family sensed Jim’s growing interest in bonsai and in 1984 and 1985 his birthday and Christmas presents included bonsai. At about the same time, a work colleague came into work with a Japanese maple in a bonsai pot. Even then, Jim didn’t think it could be called a bonsai – more a toothpick with leaves – but didn’t say so. Rather, he politely enquired as to how it was progressing until the colleague declared ‘not well’. A maple without leaves during the growing season is not a good sign.

Perhaps inspired by his colleague’s failure, Jim styled his first bonsai in September 1985. He still has it. Fittingly, it was a Juniper, which remains one of Jim’s favourite species. His other favourites are Pines and Maples. He first became interested in bonsai because it appealed to both his scientific and artistic sides. Jim plays saxophone and clarinet, and the first years of his working life were spent at the CSIRO Division of Entomology. Somehow, the idea of bonsai complemented both of these interests.

So, in November 1986, he went to the CBS show and was so impressed with what he saw that he joined the club. As others have recounted, CBS has changed a great deal since the mid 1980s. Jim has seen growth in numbers, professionalism and in the quality of the trees. Some of the trees he remembers from those early days are still in the hands of members today, but 25 years of development has seen them improve considerably.

As he puts it, there is more emphasis these days on refining bonsai, and that is central to his current motivation. Like most of us, Jim admits to having too many trees, so his energies are mainly directed to trying to refine his better trees to take them to the next stage.

He gets a lot of inspiration from the NBPCA where he makes a regular volunteering commitment of 6-‐7 days per month. His pay back is that he gets ideas from the trees on display and gains

knowledge from the regular interactions with other bonsai artists, many of whom are world-‐renowned experts.

Jim has been involved with the NBPCA since day one. In November 2003, the ACT Government announced that there would be a competition to design the arboretum that we now know as the National Arboretum Canberra. As President of CBS, Jim was involved in lobbying that saw the inclusion of a bonsai pavilion in the design brief for the arboretum. He was actively involved in the planning and establishment of the bonsai pavilion, which we now know as the NBPCA. The rest, as they say, is history.

Given the above, it is not surprising that Jim has been awarded life membership of the CBS.

Jobs for May Once again, the advice on what to do this month comes from the archives. The following is from the May 2008 Wirrabara. Appropriately, it is one of Jim M’s contributions.

Our first frosts will not be far away so it is timely that we should consider preparing our trees, and the area around them, for winter.

If you haven’t already done so, you may consider removing most, if not all fruit from your trees. Although opinion is divided on this subject, many believe that if the fruit is left on too long the trees energy can be depleted, affecting spring growth, and the flowers and fruit may be reduced next season. Spray your trees with lime sulphur (wait until the deciduous varieties have shed their leaves). This will help prevent insect pests over-‐wintering on your trees, as well as giving protection against fungal diseases such as mildew. I use a mixture of 1 part lime sulphur to 40 parts of water, and apply it two or three times between now and early spring.

Later in the month, after the leaves have fallen, it is a good idea to clean your pots, benches and the surrounding area in preparation for the winter months. Old rotting leaves and other clutter provide places for pests to shelter and breed. I usually also spray my timber benches with lime sulphur solution at this time, to provide some additional protection against over-‐wintering pests.

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I have stopped feeding my trees, as they have just about finished this year’s growth and are now ready for their winter rest.

Prepare to change your watering regime as deciduous trees go into dormancy and evergreens need less water. Care when watering at this time of year is just as important as during mid summer, but for different reasons. Our trees will require less water and some will dry out more quickly than others, so we need to be careful not to over-‐water and to avoid keeping the soil constantly damp, or we risk the possibility of the tree developing root rot. (The cooler weather will also show up trees that are not draining well, and these should be noted for re-‐potting in spring). Where possible I re-‐group my trees, keeping together those that have similar watering requirements. Also, I try to water early in the day to allow any excess to drain away. When the night temperatures get below zero, there is a chance that any excess water will freeze and cause the pot to crack.

Frost sensitive species should now be safe in their winter quarters, but most other trees can handle much colder temperatures than we experience during Canberra’s winter and they will benefit from the sunshine and fresh air, which will keep those pests down and encourage back budding. Much of what is written in bonsai books, regarding winter care, refers to places where temperatures stay below freezing for days/weeks on end and, in our climate, the extreme protection methods mentioned are unnecessary.

With the very real chance of early frosts here in Canberra, and with no means of protecting them from frosts while they re-‐establish new roots, other than bringing them indoors each night, any further re-‐potting will have to wait until early spring.

This period from now through to late winter is the least demanding time for bonsai growers. However, it is a good time to re-‐think or improve the styling of deciduous trees. After they have lost their leaves, the tree’s structure is clearly visible and any design faults can more easily be seen and corrected. Take care if you are doing any wiring, as the branches of deciduous species tend to be rather ‘brittle’ during these colder months.

Chokkan, or the Formal Upright style Last month’s meeting featured the formal upright style. Lisa K provided Wirrabara with a lovely thoughtful article on this style. Unfortunately, I could not squeeze it in last month. Thank you very much Lisa. The following is her work.

A “Formal Upright” bonsai represents a tree in nature which has grown unimpeded, out in the open, evenly receiving sunlight and not subjected to frequent strong winds. This style is said to be the most difficult to achieve. At any rate, one does not find it often in bonsai collections.

With all the other bonsai styles it is said that the trunk should never rise straight up from the soil, but with the formal upright style it is the opposite, it has to be entirely vertical. The nebari has to show surface roots radiating from the trunk base and the trunk itself should be dead straight, showing an even taper. The branch placement is the traditional right-‐left-‐back, with front placement only in the upper 1/3 of the tree. The lowest branches are longest, with the following ones progressively shorter towards the apex. Below is a photo of a formal upright swamp cypress (Taxodium distichum), created by Harry Harrington, of the Bonsai4me website. See http://www.bonsai4me.com/Basics/Basics_StylingForms.html

Harry also writes, “This can be a difficult form to carry out convincingly and it is recommended that only trees with a naturally straight trunk be used.”

Indeed, when one reads the specification details of the formal upright, one cannot help thinking, “How unnatural!”. Nonetheless, when one sees isolated trees growing in the wild in protected areas and with plenty of sunlight (or photos thereof), one has to appreciate their impressive stature and their simplicity. That is what we have to keep in mind when we undertake to grow a formal upright bonsai.

Harry recommends using conifers and writes that deciduous trees are not suitable. However, it seems to me that deciduous species with small leaves and a potentially straight trunk, such as the Chinese elm – the Seiju especially – could work

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well. On Google Images one can find a multitude of formal upright bonsai, grown from many different species. Not all are either true to that style or properly executed. If you have 10 minutes to spare it is worthwhile having a look.

This is a sample list of suitable species: Pinus, Larix, Juniperus, Chamaecyparis, Cupressus and Cedrus.

A pre-‐bonsai with a straight trunk, may be obtained at a garden centre, though one has to be lucky. Shrubs and trees grown for the garden are often cut back low to the ground, so as to produce multiple stems and a bushy growth. These are unsuitable for the formal upright. So are prostrate varieties (e.g. Juniperus squamata prostrata), those with a strong lateral dominance (e.g. Azalea) and grafted ones (e.g. pines). Some cultivars may grow with a straight trunk, but their branching characteristics would not suit. Example: pyramidal/columnar varieties (e.g. juniper “Spartan”), whose branches are just about impossible to grow horizontally.

A bonsai nursery may have what we are looking for, though the present trend is rather to encourage movement in young trees.

By foraging around one can sometimes come across beautifully straight young trees, like bird-‐sown privets, pines, junipers and others that are growing between bushes or in high grass, reaching for the sun. Personally I have a formal upright juniper that grew at the foot of a pine, between its roots, in deep shade. It too grew towards the sun high above it.

Roots – Again, in shrubs commercially grown for the garden, one probably will not find surface roots evenly radiating from the trunk base. Bonsai nurseries, however, do strive to supply plants with a decent nebari and will have removed the taproot. (Reminder: in bonsai trees the taproot is always removed.)

With trees growing in the open, it’s the luck of the draw, but most likely we will have to move some of the roots, where possible. Alternatively, we may have to graft on roots.

Note that the roots of our best-‐known conifers (junipers, Chamaecyparis, cypress and cedar) tend to be slow growing and it may take a long time before we have a nebari that fits in well with the formal upright shape of our tree. Perhaps this is why Harry Harrington favoured the swamp

cypress for his formal upright; this species tends to have strong roots.

Note: Cedars are touchy when it comes to repotting. They are comparatively slow growing (the Lebanese-‐ and Cyprus cedars especially) and youngish-‐mature to fully mature specimens only need repotting about every 3 to 4 years. It follows that we cannot fiddle with the roots the way we do with e.g. junipers. Some root work is possible on repotting, but otherwise we have to leave cedar roots alone

The photo is from the Bonsai Tree Garden website. It shows a totally different informal upright swamp cypress (Taxodium distichum), created by Sage Ross. Note the magnificent nebari! http://www.bonsaitreegardens.com/bonsai-‐style/formal-‐upright-‐and-‐informal-‐upright-‐styles/

Taper – Nothing gives the illusion of height in a bonsai tree like a good taper does. In apically dominant trees one has to be careful about branch placement. The strongest branch development will always be at the top of the tree and result in the trunk thickening where we don’t want it. Therefore, right from the start, we limit the number and the size of branches high up, encouraging the growth of those lower down. Especially close to the trunk base we can encourage the growth of sacrifice branches (i.e. not meant to be permanent). It is best to have many small ones, which can be cut off without leaving wounds, rather than one or two large ones. However, the main method resulting in a taper is to regularly reduce the size of the apex (leader) by wiring upwards a lower, thinner branch to replace the existing apex, which is then cut off. This does slow down the vertical growth of the tree, but it results in a better shape and gives the lower branches time to develop.

More about branching – The branch structure should be simple, with the branches shaped from horizontal (upper) to slightly downward (lower). The foliage should be kept fairly sparse, so as to

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show the clean lines of the formal upright. Short needles and small leaves are most effective in this style. We also need to make sure that the underside of the branches is free of foliage – even in pines! The larger the foliage or the foliage pads, the taller the tree has to be to show off the beauty of the formal upright style.

Chamaecyparis, or false cypress, is a popular bonsai. It can be grown as a formal upright, but it is best to use the species and avoid the cultivars. Many bonsai beginners have been taken in by beautiful, bushy Chamaecyparis at garden centres, only to discover that all the foliage was at the extremities of long, thin, bare branches and that these branches would not back bud. This species will give us plenty of back budding from green, non-‐woody branches, so it is important to start with either a young specimen, or a tree that has been properly pruned from an early stage. Look for Chamaecyparis obtusa (Hinoki cypress) or Chamaecyparis pisifera, which includes the blue-‐grey Boulevard cypress.

Note that the Cupressus, or the true cypress (e.g. Cupressus sempervirens, or Italian cypress), does not backbud on woody branches either.

Larix, the larch, make super formal upright bonsai. Note that, although it is a conifer, it is deciduous! The species most frequently sold here is the Japanese larch, or Larix kaempferi. Larch roots grow very fast and the trees need repotting annually or every 2 years, in Spring as the buds extend. This is also a good time to position the roots for a good nebari. For more details see http://www.bonsai4me.com/SpeciesGuide/Larix.html.

The photo is of a formal upright larch in Winter, after the needles have dropped. This tree is part of the North Carolina Arboretum bonsai collection

Juniperus – Probably the most versatile. There are many varieties of juniper that are suitable for bonsai, but most would be styled as informal upright or cascades. Note that the juniper does backbud, allowing good branching and that it is

easy to repot, making some root work relatively problem-‐free. Its disadvantage is the slow thickening of the trunk and the roots.

The species we refer to as “Shimpaku” (Juniperus sargentii) with scale-‐like foliage is probably the best for growing a formal upright. There frequently are confusions with the appellation “Shimpaku”. In garden centres you may find it labeled J. chinensis or J. x media, which resembles the true Shimpaku closely and is equally well suited to the formal upright style, its only disadvantage being the needle-‐like juvenile foliage. Another juniper which may be easier to style as a formal upright, though it coarser than the Shimpaku is “Blaauw’s juniper”, J. x media Blaauwi. On the Internet I have also seen handsome J. procumbens in this style. Note that the juniper does backbud and that it is easy to repot, allowing some root work without too many problems. Lisa K

Pine project notes for May (1st year)

Scott’s advice on May activity for those participating in the pine project is:

• Water once per day. • Apply fertiliser cake or other fertiliser

every two weeks. • Apply Fish emulsion and seaweed extract

mixed with water at recommended rate alternated weekly.

• Wire trunk for shape. • Every two months spray with copper

fungicide to prevent Dothistroma.

Dothistroma needle blight

While we are speaking about pines, Dane recently posted a link in the member’s forum to an article on Dothistroma needle blight. The article is too long to include, but we will provide a summary in a future edition of Wirrabara. For those with Internet access, here is the link: http://learningstore.uwex.edu/assets/pdfs/A2620.pdf

M16 Artspace – 3 May The M16 Artspace’s annual Street Party event will be held in Griffith on 3 May. Griffith is one of Canberra’s older suburbs and the theme of the 2014 Street Party is "The Garden". There will be a small bonsai display and demonstration by Thor. A good time assured.

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2014 Program The program is organised in two parts: CBS meetings (a copy of the meeting schedule and themes is provided on page 11) and events/workshops other than during meetings.

The following table shows the current events and workshops schedule (these workshops are all in addition to meetings). Dates as indicated.

Date Description 10 May Pine workshop #1a (Grant B) 24 May Pine workshop #1b (Grant B) 31 May Pine workshop #1c (Grant B) 21 June Intermediate styling workshop 28 June Carving workshop 12 July Beginner’s workshop #1 (a) 9 August Beginner’s workshop #2 (a) 10 August Annual bus trip 21-‐24 August AABC/BCI convention 25 October Intermediate styling workshop 11-‐12 October CBS show 15 November Pine workshop #2b (Grant B) 22 November Pine workshop #2c (Grant B) 29 November Pine workshop #2a (Grant B) November Azalea workshop

Tribute to Rowan Saunders Rowan joined CBS in October 2012 and participated in club life as much as his health allowed. Soon after he joined, Ruth commented to Rowan that he was working with some pretty big trees. He replied that he had terminal cancer and did not have time to grow on small trees. Rowan’s response reflected his positive approach and courageous determination to continue living life to the full for as long as he could. Although we did not have long to get to know Rowan, it was very evident at his funeral that he was a very loved and loving family man and good friend to many. Rowan’s generosity and love of bonsai are also reflected in his wish that the proceeds from the sale of his bonsai and

associated items be donated to the National Bonsai and Penjing Collection of Australia.

Vale, Rowan.

Sale of Rowan’s bonsai and related items

A number of Bonsai plants, assorted pots, plants that Rowan was going to use for future projects, pieces of granite to be used as stands, etc. will be on sale from 2pm Saturday 10 May at 4 Whitfield Circuit, Nicholls. Please respect the family’s wishes and observe this timing for the sale.

It was Rowan’s wish that the proceeds from the sale of these items will be donated to the National Bonsai and Penjing Exhibition at the Arboretum.

Dean Wilson Nursery open days 7-‐9 June Dean Wilson is holding open days at his nursery on 7, 8 and 9 June 2014. He has pre-‐bonsai nursery stock (including pines, azaleas, elms, quinces, cedars, maples and root over rock) and in-‐ground stock for sale plus a large private collection of bonsai to view. He also has extensive gardens on his 5-‐acre property. He suggests brining morning tea and/or lunch and some warm clothes just in case. Family and friends are welcome. His address is 9 Lemmons Road Robertson, NSW 2577. If you can’t make it on those dates, give Dean a call on (02) 4885 1297 and make other arrangements.

27th Australian National Bonsai Convention The 27th Australian National Bonsai Convention is also the Bonsai Clubs International Convention 2014. It is titled Sunrise on Australian Bonsai and will be held at QT Gold Coast Hotel, 7 Elkhorn Street, Surfers Paradise, from 21 -‐ 24 August, 2014.

The International Headliner Demonstrators are Mr. Zhao Qingquan from China and Mr. Shinichi Nakajima from Japan. Other international Demonstrators supporting the program are Ms. Chen Wenjuan from China, Mr. Budi Sulistyo from Indonesia, Mr. Nikunj Parekh and Mrs. Jyoti Parekh from India.

The Australian Demonstrators are Tony Bebb from Queensland, Chris Di Nola from New South Wales and Joe Morgan-‐Payler from Victoria.

For further information, visit the AABC website: http://www.aabcltd.org/next-‐convention/

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2014 CBS meeting schedule and themes

Month Meeting and Show and Tell theme

Styles / feature Species / groups Presentation / demonstration /

workshop 1 February Informal upright Deciduous Summer trimming 8 March (AGM)

Experiments and lucky accidents

Any Show preparation Potting/re-‐potting Soil mixes and fertilisers

5 April Formal upright Pines, Cedars, Piceas Wiring Pine project – progress reports

3 May Shohin Junipers Creating jins, sharis 7 June Cascade Any Managing cuts and scars 5 July Rock plantings Deciduous Grafting

Rock planting Aerial layering (round robin style)

2 August Multiple trunk Broad-‐leaved evergreen Group planting Potting/re-‐potting

6 September Literati

Azaleas and other flowering plants

Spring trimming

October Annual show (no meeting)

1 November Slanting/ windswept

Australian Myrtaceae (Includes Eucalyptus, Callistemon, Melaleuca , Leptospermum)

Defoliation Clip and grow

6 December Figs and banksias Pine project – prize for progress

Executive Committee

Executive President Ruth Phone: (02) 6255 2058

Vice President Tony G Phone: (02) 6259 1525 Secretary Peter H Phone: 0417 133 041 [email protected] Treasurer Allan R Phone: (02) 6258 2281 [email protected] Newsletter Editor Phil R Phone: (02) 6241 6160 [email protected]

Committee

mem

bers

Project Officer Michelle M Phone: (02) 6258 1890 Librarian Brenda B Phone: (02) 6254 1979 Publicity Officer Jennifer M Phone: (02) 6287 5567 Webmaster Neville H Phone: 0414 354 957 [email protected] Membership Officer Peter G Phone: (02) 6288 0828 Workshop manager Carmel M Phone: 0414 438 639 Newsletter Mailing John L Phone: (02) 6255 3120

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