TheCartierCollection:The Travel to the East

Editorial Proposal

Adventure Issuefall/winter 2009

TheCartierCollection:The Travel to the East

I Crown Jewels and Adornmentin the Chinese Imperial Age

The Chinese imperial age lasted for more than two thousand years from 211 BCE to 1912 CE. While jewelry styles changed drastically over the ages, the crown jewels of the dynastic families of China were passed down through the generations. From the legendary Manchurian pearls to the decadent imperial court hat, or chao guan, this article will discuss adornment traditions and styles among courtesans in the later Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) Dynasties.

II Chinese Jades —The Significance of Jade in Chinese Society

Jade is one of the earliest known decorative stones to be used in human adornment, with evidence of jade mines dating back as early as 6000 BCE, and the discovery of jade ornaments entombed with the Shang Dyansty kings of the Yin Ruins (1600-1060 BCE). Chinese societies of the Neolithic Period saw in jade the human virtues of beauty, steadfastness, durability, and strength. Later, the Six Ritual Jades were described during the Han Dynasty as the circular bi, representing the heavens; the cong representing the earth; the gui representing the east; the zhang of the south; the hu of the west; and the huang of the north.

This piece will discuss the significance of jade jewelry in early Chinese society, how its meaning as a precious stone has changed over time, and which of these early virtues are still thought of in reference to jade today.

A Fascination with The East A Look at Eastern Exoticism in Cartier’s Design at the Turn of the 20th Century

The turn of the twentieth century saw a pervasive new fascination with the Eastern exotic in an otherwise Art Deco world. With the growth of international travel and the appearance of Eastern motifs in fashionable circles in Europe and America, the public was clamoring for Eastern chic. It was at this time that Chinese influences first began to appear in Cartier pieces, with a large public debut at a 1913 exhibition of Eastern art in New York. Cartier’s modifications of original Chinese artifacts transformed foreign curiosities into chic jewelry with a certain exotic allure tailored to a European audience. Later, designers Louis Cartier and Charles Jacqueau incorporated Chinese motifs into their original designs alongside a new colour palate that paired reds with lavender and deep blue with pale green. New materials such as jade, corals, pearl, and lacquer introduced unusual textures and techniques.

This piece will focus on Cartier’s role in bringing exotic Eastern elements of design to the luxury consumer of the West.

Chinese CharacterThe Use of Chinese Symbolism in Contemporary Jewelry Design

The culture of China is rich in numerical and astrological symbolism, auspicious signs and juxtapositions, and witty double-entendres. Throughout history, these symbols have figured prominently in Chinese art and artifacts. More recently, however, they have been popularized by Western pop artists and designers in new and unexpected ways. Whether the symbolism is subtle or overstated, symbols give an added meaning to already beautiful pieces of art and jewelry.

This article will explore the various ways Chinese symbols are being used in modern jewelry design, including their appearance in recent Cartier collections.

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Cartier in the Chinese MarketChina’s Preeminent Luxury Brand Addresses the Demands of the Nouveau Riche

With the expansion of the Chinese economy and rampant development in the country’s urban centers, a robust class of nouveau riche has emerged in China. The changing face of Chinese wealth and the luxury market that caters to it has increased the demand for luxury consumer goods exponentially. This article will explore the significance of the emergent jewelry market, particularly as it contrasts with historical patterns of consumption in China over the past half-century. It will then examine the nature of the demand and the impact of this growing opportunity for luxury jewelers.

In 1997, Cartier opened its first boutique in Mainland China; while today it has 32 boutiques in 18 cities in China. Just one month ago, Cartier announced at the China Investment Summit that in 4 years time, it expects China to be its largest market. The latter half of the article will focus on Cartier, whose vision for growth in the Chinese market alongside its ability to be dynamic and current as a brand, has made the company one of the preeminent luxury brands in China today.

~The End~

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