CARDIGAN, PULLOVER AND SWEATER PATTERNS: 7 FREECardigan, Pullover and Sweater Patterns: 7 Free...

CARDIGAN, PULLOVER AND SWEATER PATTERNS:

7 FREESweater Knitting

Patterns

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Cardigan, Pullover and Sweater Patterns:7 Free Sweater Knitting Patterns

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CARDIGAN, PULLOVER, AND SWEATER PATTERNS: 7 FREE

SWEATER KNITTING PATTERNS

A Knitting Daily eBook edited by Kathleen Cubley

E D I T O R I A L S T A F F

EDITOR, KNITTING DAILY Kathleen Cubley

C R E A T I V E S E R V I C E S

PRODUCTION DESIGNER Janice TapiaPHOTOGRAPHY As Credited

ILLUSTRATION Gayle Ford

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Interweave Knits and Knitting Daily do not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in this publication. Nor does Knits or Knitting Daily evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evalu ating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Knits or Knitting Daily.

1 Tweed Cardigan Rebecca L. Daniels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PAGE 4

2 Vienne Sweater Kristeen Griffin-Grimes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 6

3 Hope Top Kristen TenDyke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 12

4 Tomato Wendy Bernard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 16

5 Farrington Pullover Lisa Shroyer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 19

6 Freyja Sweater Courtney Kelley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 23

7 Twisted-V Pullover Alice Halbeisen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 26

Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 30

SWEATERS ARE MY FAVORITE THINGS TO KNIT. I LOVE THE CHALLENGE OF KNITTING A LARGE PROJECT AND THE THRILL OF WEARING SOMETHING THAT STARTED WITH A BAG FULL OF YARN.

I’ve gathered seven beautiful sweater designs for you here, from cardigans to top-down construction, from cables to colorwork, there’s something here for you!

Designer Rebecca L. Daniels designed the Tweed Cardigan to be simple and easy to wear, but not boring. As such, the knitting of this sweater is easy and stressless, with no seams, but a bit of waist shaping adds interest and doubles as a tailored back detail.

French Girl Kristeen Giffin-Grimes designed the Vienne Sweater to be knit from the top down. It’s an interesting knit, with set in sleeves worked simultaneously with the upper bodice. Front and back v-neck lace edging is worked into the pattern as you go. Very chic!

A flatterning, cap-sleeved pullover, Kristen TenDyke’s Hope Top has a

Cardigan, Pullover and Sweater Patterns:7 Free Sweater Knitting Patterns

unique I-cord element. It’s a fun and different twist. The Hope Top is also finish free, one of Kristen’s trademark design techniques.

As comfy as a bowl of tomato soup, Wendy Bernard’s Tomato is knitted in Blue Sky Organic Cotton, which is soft, soft, soft, but worked at a tighter gauge than the ball band suggests to improve the drape and wearability. It’s designed to be close fitting, with waist shaping and a seriously flattering scoop neck.

A dramatic slouch collar forms the focal point the Farrington Pullover by Lisa Shroyer. The pieces are worked flat and then seamed; plain stockinette allows for custom body shaping. The seeded rib edging makes a great non-curling edge that doesn’t contract like traditional ribbing. In a chunky yarn and relaxed silhouette, this design is meant to be worn with positive ease for a comfortable outer layer.

The painterly knit-and-purl colorwork of the Bohus Stickning Cooperative inspired Courtney Kelley’s Freyja Sweater.

Five colors shift and blend from stitch to stitch in a soft, haloed yarn blended from camel, alpaca, silk, and cashmere. A zigzag pattern builds into shaping in the sweater’s circular yoke.

In the Twisted-V Pullover, Alice Halbeisen designed a twist on the classic V-neck style. She began with a wide band of twisted ribbing (the knit stitches are worked through the back loops) at the hem to draw in the pullover at the waist. Then she extended the ribs in a triangular pattern to the base of the neckline on the front to enhance the slimming look and worked a similar triangular pattern at each sleeve cuff.

Have a wonderful time knitting and wearing these sweaters!

Cheers,

Kathleen CubleyEditor, KnittingDaily.com


Cardigan, Pullover and Sweater Patterns: 7 Free Sweater Knitting Patterns


KA

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FINISHED SIZE: 361/2 (411/4, 443/4, 483/4, 523/4, 563/4)" bust circumference. Sweater shown measures 483/4", modeled with zero ease at bust. YARN: Plymouth Yarns Plymouth Tweed (100% wool; 109 yd [100 m]/50 g): #5320 wine, 12 (13, 14, 16, 17, 18) balls. NEEDLES: Body—size 7 (4.5 mm): 36" or longer circular (cir). Sleeves—size 7 (4.5 mm): set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS: Markers (m); waste yarn; tapestry needle; two decorative buttons.GAUGE: 20 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st.

by REBECCA L. DANIELSOriginally published in Interweave Knits Weekend 2009

Tweed Cardigan

NOTES

• This sweater is worked from the top down in one piece with no seams.

• This sweater features waist shaping, with additional gathering at the center back.

YokeWith cir needle, CO 70 (82, 90, 90, 102, 110) sts. Do not join. Work 8 rows in garter st (knit every row). SHAPE RAGLANS: (WS) P12 (15, 16, 16, 18, 20) (right front), place marker (pm), p11 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15) (right sleeve), pm,

p24 (30, 32, 32, 36, 40) (back), pm, p11 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15) (left sleeve), pm, p12 (15, 16, 16, 18, 20) (left front). Inc Row 1: (RS) *Knit to 1 st before

m, k1f&b, sl m, k1f&b; rep from * 3 times, knit to end—8 sts inc’d.

Rep Inc Row 1 every RS row 31 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42) more times, ending with a WS row—326 (362, 386, 402, 430,




454) sts total: 44 (50, 53, 55, 59, 63) sts for each front, 88 (100, 106, 110, 118, 126) sts for back, and 75 (81, 87, 91, 97, 101) sts for each sleeve. Discontinue sleeve shaping and cont yoke shaping as foll:

Inc Row 2: (RS) *Knit to 1 st before m, k1f&b, sl m, knit across sleeve, sl m, k1f&b; rep from * once, knit to end—4 sts inc’d: 1 st for each front, 2 sts for back.

Rep Inc Row 2 every RS row 0 (0, 1, 3, 4, 5) more time(s), ending with a WS row—330 (366, 394, 418, 450, 478) sts total: 45 (51, 55, 59, 64, 69) sts for each front; 90 (102, 110, 118, 128, 138) sts for back, 75 (81, 87, 91, 97, 101) sts for each sleeve. Discontinue front shaping and cont back shaping as foll:Inc Row 3: (RS) [Knit to m, sl m] 2

times, k1f&b, knit across back to 1 st before m, k1f&b, sl m, knit to end—2 sts inc’d for back.

Rep Inc Row 3 every RS row 0 (0, 1, 3, 3, 3) more time(s), ending with a WS row—332 (368, 398, 426, 458, 486) sts total: 45 (51, 55, 59, 64, 69) sts for each front, 92 (104, 114, 126, 136, 146) sts for back, 75 (81, 87, 91, 97, 101) sts for each sleeve. Dividing row: (RS) Removing m as you come to them, *knit to m, place all sleeve sts on holder; rep from * once, knit to end—182 (206, 224, 244, 264, 284) sts rem for body.

BodyWork 2 rows even in St st. SHAPE BACK WAIST: (WS) P90 (102, 111, 121, 131, 141), pm, p2, pm, purl to end. Dec row: (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, k2, sl m, k2tog, knit to end—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 11 more times—158 (182, 200, 220, 240, 260) sts rem. Work 5 rows even in St st, ending with a WS row. Inc row: (RS) Knit to 1 st before m, k1f&b, sl m, k2, sl m, k1f&b, knit to end—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every RS row 11 more times—182 (206, 224, 244, 264, 284) sts total. Purl 1 row, removing all m. Work even in St st until

body

361/2 (411/4, 443/4, 483/4, 523/4, 563/4)"92.5 (104.5, 113.5, 124, 134, 144) cm

311/2 (361/2, 40, 44, 48, 52)"80 (93, 101.5, 112, 122, 132) cm

91/2 (91/2, 91/2, 10, 10, 10)"24 (24, 24, 25, 25, 25) cm

91/2 (93/4, 101/4, 101/4, 101/2, 11)"24 (24.5, 26, 26, 26.5, 28) cm

15 (161/4, 171/2, 181/4, 191/2, 201/4)"38 (41.5, 44.5, 46.5, 49, 51.5) cm

5 (6, 61/2, 61/2, 71/4, 8)"12.5 (15, 16.5, 16.5, 18.5, 20) cm

1 (1

, 11/4

, 11/4

, 11/2

, 11/2

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5 (2

.5, 3

, 3, 3

.5, 3

.5) c

m

91/2 (1

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01/2, 1

1, 1

13/4, 1

21/4)"

24 (2

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30,

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13 (1

31/2, 1

31/2, 1

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4, 1

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33 (3

4, 3

4, 3

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35.

5, 3

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m

Schematic

body measures 12 (121/2, 121/2, 13, 13, 131/2)" from underarm. Work 8 rows in garter st. BO all sts.

SleevesPlace 75 (81, 87, 91, 97, 101) sts of one sleeve on dpn. Beg at underarm, knit around, pm at underarm, and join in the rnd. SHAPE SLEEVE: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d. Rep dec rnd every other rnd 0 (1, 9, 9, 13, 16) time(s)—73 (77, 67, 71, 69, 67) sts rem. Rep dec rnd every 3 rnds 13 (14, 8, 10, 8, 6) times—47 (49, 51, 51, 53, 55) sts rem. Work even until sleeve measures 81/2 (81/2, 81/2, 9, 9, 9)" from underarm. Work 8 rnds in garter st (knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd). BO all sts.

Back BandCO 10 sts. Work in garter st until piece mea-sures 6" from CO. BO all sts.

FinishingRight-front band: With RS facing, beg at lower edge, *pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows in St st and 1 st in each garter ridge up center front to neck edge. Work 8 rows (about 1") in garter st. BO all sts. Left-front band: With RS facing, beg at neck edge, pick up same number of sts as for right-front band down left front, ending at lower edge. Work as for right-front band. Weave in all ends. Sew back band to back of sweater, in the space between the incs and decs for waist shaping, gathering fabric as desired. Sew two decorative buttons to back band. Block lightly.

REBECCA L. DANIELS lives in north-ern Colorado with a lot of fiber, fabric, works-in-progress that might never see the light of day, and four insane pet rats.




by KRISTEEN GRIFFIN-GRIMES Originally appeared on KnittingDaily.com

Vienne Sweater

Vienne is constructed from the top down, with set in sleeves worked simultaneously with the upper bodice. Front and back v-neck lace edging is worked into the pattern as you go.

FINISHED SIZE: 321/2 (351/2, 391/2, 441/2)" (82.5 [90, 100.5, 113] cm) bust circumference. Sweater shown measures 321/2" (82.5 cm).YARN: Worsted weight (#4 Medium).SHOWN HERE: GGH Bel Air (90% merino, 10% nylon; 142 yd [130 m]/50 g): #9 terra cotta, 6 (6, 7, 8) balls.NEEDLES: Body and sleeves—size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm) one 16" and two 24" (60 cm) circular (cir). Cuffs—size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm) set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn). Provisional cast-on—size U.S. 6 (4 mm): straight. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS: Markers (m); removable markers; stitch holders; smooth cotton waste yarn for provisional cast-on; size G/6 (4.25 mm) crochet hook; tapestry needle.GAUGE: 20 stitches and 31 rows/rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on largest needles; 11 to 16 stitches of diagonal lace patterns from charts average 21/2" (6.5 cm) wide on largest needles.NOTES

• The upper body is worked in two halves, one half on each side of the V-neck. The shoulder area begins with a provisional cast-on at the shoulder line, and then the back and front shoulders are worked separately from the top down for a few inches.

• Stitches for the sleeve cap are picked up along the armhole selvedge between the live stitches of the back and front

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shoulders, then the back, front, and sleeve cap are worked in one piece to the underarm, with increases to form the sleeve cap, armhole, and V-neck shaping.

• The two halves are joined for working back and forth in rows in one piece at the base of the back V-neck opening, and then joined for working in the round at the base of the front V-neck opening. At the same time, when the armholes reach the required depth for each size, stitches for the sleeves are put on holders.

• The lower body is worked in the round to the lower edge waist and hip shaping at the sides and front dart shaping below the bust. When the body has been completed, the sleeves are worked in the round from the armholes down to the gathered cuffs.

• Because the number of stitches in the charts does not remain constant from row to row, total stitch counts are only given at key points in the instructions when the charts have ended with a specific row.

• The decreases in the charts are deliberately not mirror images of each other and lean in the same directions for both charts.

Left Upper BodyLEFT BACK SHOULDER

With size 6 (4 mm) straight needle, smooth waste yarn, and using the crochet provisional method (see Glossary), CO 16 (18, 20, 22) sts. Join MC with WS facing. With size 7 (4.5 mm) 24" (60 cm) cir needle, purl 1 WS row. Row 1: (RS) K1 (3, 5, 7), place marker

(pm), work Set-up Row 1 of Right Diagonal Lace chart over next 15 sts, inc them to 16 sts as shown on chart—17 (19, 21, 23) sts.

Row 2: (WS) Work Set-up Row 2 of

chart over first 16 sts, slip marker (sl m), p1 (3, 5, 7).

Row 3: (neck inc row) K1 (3, 5, 7), work a right-slant lifted inc (see Glossary), sl m, work Row 1 of chart to end—2 (4, 6, 8) sts in St sts.

Rows 4–6: Cont in patt from chart and working sts outside chart section in St st, work 3 rows even.

Row 7: (RS, neck inc row) Knit to 1 st before m, work a left-slant lifted inc (see Glossary), k1, sl m, work chart patt to end—1 st inc’d in St st section.

Rows 8–23: Rep Rows 4–7 four more times, ending with Row 7 of chart—7 (9, 11, 13) St sts before m. Note: After working through Row 14 of chart the first time, rep Rows 1–14 only for patt; do not rep the set-up rows.

Row 24: Work 1 WS row even in patts, ending with Row 8 of chart—18 (20, 22, 24) sts total; 7 (9, 11, 13) St sts; 11 chart sts; piece measures about 3" (7.5 cm) from CO. Leave sts on needle.

Left Front ShoulderHold left back shoulder with RS facing and provisional CO across the top. Carefully remove waste yarn of provisional CO, and place 16 (18, 20, 22) exposed sts on second size 7 (4.5 mm) cir needle. Join MC with WS facing. Purl 1 WS row. Row 1: (RS) Work Set-up Row 1 of Left

Diagonal Lace chart over 15 sts, inc them to 16 sts as shown on chart, pm, k1—17 (19, 21, 23) sts.

Row 2: (WS) P1 (3, 5, 7), sl m, work Set-up Row 2 of chart over 16 sts.

Row 3: (RS, neck inc row) Work Row 1 of chart to m, sl m, work a left-slant lifted inc, k1 (3, 5, 7)—1 st inc’d in St st section.

Rows 4–6: Cont in patt from chart and

working sts outside chart section in St st, work 3 rows even.

Row 7: (RS, neck inc row) Work chart patt to m, sl m, k1, work a right-slant lifted inc, knit to end—1 st inc’d in St st section.

Rows 8–23: Rep Rows 4–7 four more times, ending with Row 7 of chart—7 (9, 11, 13) St sts after m. Note: As for Right Diagonal chart, do not rep the set-up rows.

Row 24: Work 1 WS row even in patts, ending with Row 8 of chart—18 (20, 22, 24) sts total; 7 (9, 11, 13) St sts; 11 chart sts; piece measures about 3" (7.5 cm) from shoulder line. Leave sts on needle.

Left Sleeve CapRow 25: (RS, Row 9 of charts) With RS

facing and using yarn attached at neck edge of front shoulder, work in patt to end of left front sts, pm, pick up and knit 15 sts along left front armhole selvedge to shoulder line, then 15 sts along left back armhole selvedge to back shoulder sts, pm, with same needle work across 18 (20, 22, 24) back sts in patt to end—30 sleeve cap sts between inner pair of m; 7 (9, 11, 13) St sts each side between sleeve cap and charts.

Row 26: Working inc’d sts in St st, work 1 WS row even in patts.

Row 27: (RS, sleeve and neck inc row) Work in patt to m, sl m, k1, work a right-slant lifted inc, knit to sleeve m, sl m, k1, work a right-slant lifted inc, knit to 1 st before next sleeve m, work a left-slant lifted inc, k1, sl m, knit to 1 st before next m, work a left-slant lifted inc, k1, sl m, work in patt to end—2 sts inc’d in sleeve cap; 1 st inc’d each side between sleeve cap and chart.

Rows 28 and 30: Work even in established patts.




Row 29: (sleeve inc row) Work in patts to first sleeve m, sl m, k1, work a right-slant lifted inc, knit to 1 st before next sleeve m, work a left-slant lifted inc, k1, sl m, work in patts to end—2 sts inc’d in sleeve cap.

Rows 31–46: Rep Rows 27–30 four more times, ending with Row 2 of charts—50 sleeve cap sts between inner pair of m; 12 (14, 16, 18) St sts each side between sleeve cap and charts; piece measures about 6" (15 cm) from shoulder line.

Row 47: (sleeve, neck, and armhole inc row) Work in patt to m, sl m, *k1, work a right-slant lifted inc, knit to 1 st before next m, work a left-slant lifted inc, k1, sl m; rep from * 2 more times, work in patt to end—2 sts inc’d in sleeve cap; 2 sts inc’d at each side between sleeve cap and chart.

Rows 48 and 50: Work even in established patts.

Row 49: (sleeve and armhole inc row) Work in patt to 1 st before sleeve m, work a left-slant lifted inc, k1, sl m, k1, work a right-slant lifted inc, knit to 1 st before next sleeve m, work a left-slant lifted inc, k1, sl m, k1, work a right-slant lifted inc, work in patt to end—2 sts inc’d in sleeve cap; 1 st inc’d at each side between sleeve cap and chart.

Rows 51–58: Rep Rows 47–50 two more times, ending with Row 14 of charts—136 (140, 144, 148) sts total; 62 sleeve cap sts between inner pair of m; 21 (23, 25, 27) St sts each side between sleeve cap and chart; 16 sts each chart; piece measures about 71/2" (19 cm) from shoulder line. Place sts on holder.

Right Upper BodyRIGHT FRONT SHOULDER

Work Rows 1–24 as for left back

shoulder, ending with Row 8 of chart—18 (20, 22, 24) sts total; 7 (9, 11, 13) St sts; 11 chart sts; piece measures about 3" (7.5 cm) from shoulder line. Leave sts on needle.RIGHT BACK SHOULDER

Work Rows 1–24 as for left front shoulder, ending with Row 8 of chart—18 (20, 22, 24) sts total; 7 (9, 11, 13) St sts; 11 chart sts; piece measures about 3" (7.5 cm) from shoulder line. Leave sts on needle.RIGHT SLEEVE CAP

Row 25: (RS, Row 9 of charts) With RS facing and using yarn attached at neck edge of back shoulder, work in patt to end of right back sts, pm, pick up and knit 15 sts along right back armhole selvedge to shoulder line, then 15 sts along right front armhole selvedge to front shoulder sts, pm, with same needle work across 18 (20, 22, 24) front sts in patt to end—30 sleeve cap sts between inner pair of m; 7 (9, 11, 13) St sts each side between sleeve cap and charts.

Rows 26–58: Work as for left sleeve cap, ending with Row 14 of charts—136 (140, 144, 148) sts total; 62 sleeve cap sts between inner pair of m; 21 (23, 25, 27) St sts each side between sleeve cap and chart; 16 sts each chart; piece measures about 71/2" (19 cm) from shoulder line. Leave sts on needle.

Join Upper Bodies and Divide for SleevesNote: The upper bodies are joined at the base of the back V-neck at the start of the next 14-row section, then the body and sleeves are divided on different rows depending on your size, then all sizes are joined at the base of the front V-neck after completing this section. Shaping continues at the same

time and is worked slightly differently for each size; read the instructions for your size all the way through before proceeding.

SIZE 32½" ONLY

Place sts of both right and left upper bodies on one size 7 (4.5 mm) 24" (60 cm) cir needle, arranged so that sts of left upper body will be knit first with RS facing—272 sts. Join yarn with RS facing to beg of left front neck edge.Row 1: (RS, dividing row, neck inc

row, back joining row, and Row 1 of charts) Work 16 sts in chart patt and dec them to 14 sts as shown on chart, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at neck edge as established, knit rem 20 left front sts, place next 62 sts on holder for left sleeve removing both sleeve m, use the cable method (see Glossary) to CO 2 sts for left underarm, pm for left side, CO 2 sts, k21 to start of left back chart sts, remove m, knit across first 15 chart sts, k2tog (last left back chart st tog with first right back chart st), knit across rem 15 right back chart sts, remove m, k21 to right sleeve, place next 62 sts on holder for right sleeve removing both sleeve m, use the cable method to CO 2 sts for right underarm, pm, CO 2 sts, k20 right front sts, inc 1 st at neck edge as established, k1, sl m, work 16 sts in chart patt dec them to 14 sts as shown on chart—153 sts total; 77 back sts between side m; 24 St sts each front between side m and chart; 14 sts each chart.

Rows 2–13: Working all back sts in St st, cont in patts and at the same time inc 1 st at each front neck edge on Rows 5, 9, and 13—163 sts total; 77 back sts between side m, 27 St sts each front between side m and chart, 16 sts each chart after completing Row 13.

Row 14: (WS) K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.




Front joining rnd: With RS facing, knit across all sts to last st, k2tog (last st tog with first st of row) to join at base of front V-neck for working in the rnd, knit to left side m—162 sts; 77 back sts; 85 front sts; piece measures 2" (5 cm) from dividing row; rnd begs at left underarm m at start of back sts.

SIZE 35½" ONLY

Place sts of both right and left upper bodies on one size 7 (4.5 mm) 24" (60 cm) cir needle, arranged so that sts of left upper body will be knit first with RS facing—280 sts. Join yarn with RS facing to beg of left front neck edge.Row 1: (RS, sleeve, neck, and armhole

inc row, back joining row, and Row 1 of charts)

Work 16 sts in chart patt and dec them to 14 sts as shown on chart, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at neck edge as established, k21 to last left front st, inc 1 st at armhole edge, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at beg of sleeve, k60 to last sleeve st, inc 1 st at end of sleeve, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at armhole edge, k22 to start of left back chart sts, remove m, knit across first 15 chart sts, k2tog (last left back chart st tog with first right back chart st), knit across rem 15 right back chart sts, remove m, k22 to last back st, inc 1 st at armhole edge, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at beg of sleeve, k60 to last sleeve st, inc 1 st at end of sleeve, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at armhole edge, k21 to last right front st, inc 1 st at neck edge, k1, sl m, work 16 sts in chart patt dec them to 14 sts as shown on chart—285 sts total; 64 sts each sleeve cap; 79 back sts; 25 St sts each front between sleeve cap and chart; 14 sts each chart.Rows 2–4: Working all back sts in St

st, cont in patts and at the same time on Row 3 inc 1 st at each end of each sleeve, 1 st at each end of back, and 1 st at each front armhole

edge as established—291 sts total; 66 sts each sleeve cap; 81 back sts; 26 St sts each side between sleeve cap and chart; 13 sts each chart after completing Row 4; piece measures 8" (20.5 cm) from shoulder line.

Row 5: (dividing row, neck inc row, Row 5 of charts) Work 13 sts in chart patt and dec them to 12 sts as shown on chart, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at neck edge, k25 rem left front sts, place next 66 sts on holder for left sleeve removing both sleeve m, use the cable method (see Glossary) to CO 2 sts for left underarm, pm for left side, CO 2 sts, k81 back sts, place next 66 sts on holder for right sleeve removing both sleeve m, use the cable method to CO 2 sts for right underarm, pm, CO 2 sts, k25 sts right front sts, inc 1 st at neck edge, k1, sl m, work 13 sts in chart patt and dec them to 12 sts as shown on chart—167 sts total; 85 back sts between marked side sts; 29 St sts each front between side m and chart; 12 sts each chart.

Rows 6–13: Cont in patts and at the same time inc 1 st at each neck edge on Rows 9 and 13—179 sts total; 85 back sts between side m, 31 St sts each front between side m and chart, 16 sts each chart after completing Row 13.

Row 14: (WS) K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.Front joining rnd: With RS facing, knit

across all sts to last st, k2tog (last st tog with first st of row) to join at base of front V-neck for working in the rnd, knit to left side m—178 sts; 85 back sts; 93 front sts; piece measures 11/4" (3.2 cm) from dividing row; rnd begs at left underarm m at start of back sts.

SIZE 39½" ONLY

Place sts of both right and left upper bodies on one size 7 (4.5 mm) 24" (60 cm) cir needle, arranged so that sts of

left upper body will be knit first with RS facing—288 sts. Join yarn with RS facing to beg of left front neck edge.Row 1: (RS, sleeve, neck, and armhole


Work 16 sts in chart patt and dec them to 14 sts as shown on chart, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at neck edge as established, k23 to last left front st, inc 1 st at armhole edge, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1 st t beg of sleeve, k60 to last sleeve st, inc 1 st at end of sleeve, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at armhole edge, k24 to start of left back chart sts, remove m, knit across first 15 chart sts, k2tog (last left back chart st tog with first right back chart st), knit across rem 15 right back chart sts, remove m, k24 to last back st, inc 1 st at armhole edge, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at beg of sleeve, k60 to last sleeve st, inc 1 st at end of sleeve, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at armhole edge, k23 to last right front st, inc 1 st at neck edge, k1, sl m, work 16 sts in chart patt and dec them to 14 sts as shown on chart—293 sts total; 64 sts each sleeve cap; 83 back sts; 27 St sts each side between sleeve cap and chart; 14 sts each chart.Rows 2–8: Working all back sts in St st,

cont in patts and at the same time on Rows 3, 5, and 7 inc 1 st at each end of each sleeve, 1 st at each end of back, and 1 st at each front armhole edge as established. Also at the same time on Row 5 inc 1 st at each neck edge—313 sts total; 70 sts each sleeve cap; 89 back sts; 31 St sts each side between sleeve cap and chart; 11 sts each chart after completing Row 8; piece measures about 81/2" (21.5 cm) from shoulder line.

Row 9: (dividing row, neck inc row, Row 9 of charts) Work 11 sts in chart patt and inc them to 12 sts as shown on chart, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at neck edge, k30 rem left front sts,




place next 70 sts on holder for left sleeve removing both sleeve m, use the cable method (see Glossary) to CO 3 sts for left underarm, pm for left side, CO 3 sts, k89 back sts, place next 70 sts on holder for right sleeve removing both sleeve m, use the cable method to CO 3 sts for right underarm, pm, CO 3 sts, k30 sts right front sts, inc 1 st at neck edge, k1, sl m, work 11 sts in chart patt and inc them to 12 sts as shown on chart—189 sts total; 95 back sts between marked side sts; 35 St sts each front between side m and chart; 12 sts each chart.

Rows 10–13: Cont in patts and at the same time inc 1 st at each neck edge on Row 13—199 sts total; 95 back sts between marked side sts; 36 St sts each front between side m and chart; 16 sts each chart after completing Row 13.

Row 14: (WS) K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.Front joining rnd: With RS facing,

knit across all sts to last st, k2tog (last st tog with first st of row) to join for working in the rnd, knit to left side m—198 sts; 95 back sts; 103 front sts; piece measures 1" (3.2 cm) from dividing row; rnd begs at left underarm m at start of back sts.

SIZE 44½" ONLY

Place sts of both right and left upper bodies on one size 7 (4.5 mm) 24" (60 cm) cir needle, arranged so that sts of left upper body will be knit first with RS facing—296 sts. Join yarn with RS facing to beg of left front neck edge.Row 1: (RS, sleeve, neck, and armhole


Work 16 sts in chart patt and dec them to 14 sts as shown on chart, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at neck edge as established, k25 to last left front st, inc 1 st at armhole edge, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at beg of

sleeve, k60 to last sleeve st, inc 1 st at end of sleeve, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at armhole edge, k26 to start of left back chart sts, remove m, knit across first 15 chart sts, k2tog (last left back chart st tog with first right back chart st), knit across rem 15 right back chart sts, remove m, k26 to last back st, inc 1 st at armhole edge, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at beg of sleeve, k60 to last sleeve st, inc 1 st at end of sleeve, k1, sl m, k1, inc 1 st at armhole edge, k25 to last right front st, inc 1 st at neck edge, k1, sl m, work 16 sts in chart patt and dec them to 14 sts as shown on chart—301 sts total; 64 sts each sleeve cap; 87 back sts; 29 St sts each side between sleeve cap and chart; 14 sts each chart.Rows 2–13: Working all back sts in St

st, cont in patts and at the same time on Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 inc 1 st at each end of each sleeve, 1 st at each end of back, and 1 st at each front armhole edge as established. Also at the same time on Rows 5, 9, and 13 inc 1 st at each neck edge—359 sts total; 76 sts each sleeve cap; 99 back sts; 38 St sts each side between sleeve cap and chart; 16 sts each chart after completing Row 13.

Row 14: (WS) K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2—piece measures about 91/4" (23.5 cm) from shoulder line.

Dividing row for sleeves and front joining rnd: Knit to sleeve m, place next 76 sts on holder for left sleeve removing both sleeve m, use the cable method (see Glossary) to CO 4 sts for left underarm, pm for left side, CO 4 sts, k99 back sts, place next 76 sts on holder for right sleeve removing both sleeve m, use the cable method to CO 4 sts for right underarm, pm, CO 4 sts, knit to last st, k2tog (last st tog with first st of row) to join for working in the rnd, knit to left side m—222 sts; 107 back sts; 115 front sts; rnd begs at left

underarm m at start of back sts.

Lower BodyWork even in St st in the rnd on 162 (178, 198, 222) sts until piece measures 31/2" (9 cm) from dividing row. Waist dec rnd: (RS) *K2tog, knit to m, ssk, sl m; rep from * once more—4 sts dec’d; 2 sts each from front and back. Work 5 rnds even in St st. Cont in St st, rep the shaping of the last 6 rnds 2 more times, then rep waist dec rnd—146 (162, 182, 206) sts; 69 (77, 87, 99) back sts; 77 (85, 95, 107) front sts; piece measures about 6" (15 cm) from dividing row. Front dart rnd: Knit across back sts, sl right side m, k18 (22, 27, 33), ssk, k2tog, k33, ssk, k2tog, knit to end—4 sts dec’d from front. Work 5 rnds even. Cont in St st, rep the shaping of the last 6 rnds once more, then rep front dart rnd—134 (150, 170, 194) sts; 69 (77, 87, 99) back sts, 65 (73, 83, 95) front sts; piece measures about 73/4" (19.5 cm) from dividing row. Hip inc rnd: *K1, work a right-slant lifted inc, knit to 1 st before m, work a left-slant lifted inc, k1, sl m; rep from * once more—4 sts inc’d; 2 sts each on front and back. Work 4 rnds even. Rep the shaping of the last 5 rnds 2 more times, then rep hip inc rnd once more—150 (166, 186, 210) sts; 77 (85, 95, 107) back sts; 73 (81, 91, 103) front sts; piece measures about 93/4" (25 cm) from dividing row. Work even in St st until piece measures 133/4" (35 cm) from dividing row or 1/4" (6 mm) less than desired length. Next rnd: *K2tog, yo; rep from *. BO all sts loosely—lower body measures about 14" (35.5 cm) from dividing row.

SleevesPlace 62 (66, 70, 76) held sleeve sts on 16" (40 cm) size 7 (4.5 mm) needle, and join yarn to center of CO sts at underarm. With RS facing, pick up and knit 3 (3, 3, 4) sts from CO sts, knit




across 62 (66, 70, 76) sleeve sts, pick up and knit 3 (3, 3, 4) sts from CO sts, pm, and join for working in rnds—68 (72, 76, 84) sts. Next rnd: K2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2—66 (70, 74, 82) sts. Work 6 rnds even. Inc rnd: K1, work a right-slant lifted inc, knit to last st, work a left-slant lifted inc—2 sts inc’d. Work 5 rnds even. Rep the shaping of the last 6 rnds 10 more times, then rep inc rnd—90 (94, 98, 106) sts. Work even if necessary

for your size until piece measures 91/2 (91/2, 10, 101/2)" (24 [24, 25.5, 26.5] cm) from dividing row. Change to size 5 (3.75 mm) dpn. Next rnd: K1 (3, 5, 7), *k2tog; rep from * to last 1 (3, 5, 7) st(s), k1 (3, 5, 7)—46 (50, 54, 60) sts rem. Next rnd: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep the last rnd 2 more times—40 (44, 48, 54) sts. Work 9 rnds even. Next rnd: *K2tog, yo; rep from *—piece measures about 103/4 (103/4, 111/4, 113/4)" (27.5 [27.5,

28.5, 30] cm) from dividing row. BO alls sts loosely.

FinishingBlock to measurements. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, reinforce joins at base of back and front V-necks as invisibly as possible. Weave in loose ends.

KRISTEEN GRIFFIN-GRIMES is the author of Interweave Press’ books French Girl Knits and French Girl Knits Acces-sories. She also hosts fantastic knitters’ tours in France.

30 (331/4, 371/4, 42)”76 (84.5, 94.5, 106.5) cm

321/2 (351/2, 391/2, 441/2)”82.5 (90, 100.5, 113) cm

71 /2 (8

, 81 /2,

91 /4)

”19

(20.

5, 2

1.5,

23.

5) c

m

23/4 (3, 31/2, 4)”7 (7.5, 9, 10) cm

103/4 (103/4, 111/4, 113/4)”27.5 (27.5, 28.5, 30) cm

131/4 (14, 143/4, 161/2)”33.5 (35.5, 37.5, 42) cm

14”35.5 cm

71/2”19 cm

2”5 cm

71/2”19 cm

8 (8

3 /4, 9

1 /2, 1

03 /4)”

20.5

(22,

24,

27.

5) c

m

Front & Back

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

set-up 1set-up 2

Vienne Left Diagonal Lace

rep Rows 1-14for patt

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

set-up 1set-up 2

rep Rows 1-14for patt

Vienne Right Diagonal Lace

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

sl 1 pwise wyf on RS and WS

yo

k2tog

ssk

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

Schematic




by KRISTEN TENDYKE Originally published in Finish-Free Knits, Interweave, 2012

Hope Top

Designed for seed-stitch lovers (like me), Hope can be worn alone or over a fitted blouse, with a skirt or jeans. It is worked from the top down with beautiful details along the way, including a dainty button closure at the back neck, prominent slipped stitches along the yoke, and a drawstring waist. Knitted in a blend of linen and merino at a fine gauge, this sweater is a joy both to knit and wear.

FINISHED SIZE: About 303/4 (341/2, 381/2, 421/4, 461/4, 501/4, 54)" (78 [87.5, 98, 107.5, 117.5, 127.5, 137] cm) bust circumference.Top shown measures 341/2" (87.5 cm).YARN: Sportweight (#2 Fine).Shown here: Louet MerLin (60% linen, 40% merino; 250 yd [228 m]/100 g): #67 sea foam green, 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins.NEEDLES: Body and sleeves: size U.S. 1 (2.25 mm): 16" and 32" (40 and 80 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).

I-cord: size U.S. 0 (2 mm): set of 2 double-pointed (dpn).Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS: Markers (m); stitch holders or waste yarn; one 1/2” (1.3 cm) button; tapestry needle.GAUGE: 24 sts and 46 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in seed st on larger needle, worked in rnds.25 sts and 52 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in slipped seed st on larger needle, worked in rnds.See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Stitch GuideSEED STITCH WORKED IN ROWS: (multiple of 2 sts)Row 1: (WS) *P1, k1; rep from *.Row 2: (RS) *K1, p1; rep from *.Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

JOE

HA

NC

OC

K




SEED STITCH WORKED IN ROUNDS: (multiple of 2 sts + 1)Rnd 1: K1, *p1, k1; rep from *.Rnd 2: P1, *k1, p1; rep from *.Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for patt.

SLIPPED SEED STITCH: (multiple of 6 sts + 5)Rnd 1: P1, k1, sl 1 purlwise with yarn in

back (pwise wyb), k1, p1, *k1, p1, k1, sl 1 pwise wyb, k1, p1; rep from *.

Rnd 2: K1, p1, sl 1 pwise wyb, p1, k1, *p1, k1, p1, sl 1 pwise wyb, p1, k1; rep from *.

Rnd 3: P1, k1, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, k1, p1, *k1, p1, k1, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, k1, p1; rep from *.

Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 2, dropping extra wraps.Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt.

NOTES

• Garment is worked from the top down.• When counting sts, count each double

yarnover as 1 stitch.

YokeWith shorter cir needle, use the long-tail method to CO 92 (100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 140) sts. Do not join; work back and forth in rows.Work 2 rows in seed st (see Stitch Guide).Button-loop row: (WS) Use the knitted

method to CO 1 st, [CO 1 st, BO 1 st] 8 times, k2tog, work to end in seed st as established—92 (100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 140) sts.

Work 7 rows even in seed st, ending with a RS row. Do not turn.Joining rnd: With RS still facing,

spread sts along needle and form work into a ring being careful not to twist sts as foll: Sl first st with yarn in back (wyb), work in seed st to last st, then knit the last and first sts tog as k2tog, pm for beg of rnd—91 (99, 107, 115, 123, 131, 139) sts rem.

Inc Rnd 1: (P1, [yo] 2 times, p1) all in next st, *k1, (p1, [yo] 2 times, p1) all in next st; rep from *—183 (199, 215, 231, 247, 263, 279) sts, counting each double yo as 1 st.

Establish slipped seed st as foll:Rnd 1: K1, sl 1 purlwise with yarn in

back (pwise wyb) while dropping extra wrap, k1, *p1, k1, sl 1 pwise wyb while dropping extra wrap, k1; rep from *.

Rnd 2: P1, sl 1 pwise wyb, p1, *k1, p1, sl 1 pwise wyb, p1; rep from *.

Rnd 3: K1, sl 1 pwise wyb, k1, *p1, k1, sl 1 pwise wyb, k1; rep from *.

Rnd 4: P1, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, p1, *k1, p1, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, p1; rep from *.

Rep these 4 rnds 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10) more times, then work Rnds 1–3 once again—piece measures about 33/4 (33/4, 4, 4, 41/4, 41/4, 41/2)" (9.5 [9.5, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11.5] cm) from CO.Inc Rnd 2: P1, yo, knit next st wrapping

yarn twice, yo, p1, *k1, p1, yo, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, yo, p1; rep from *—275 (299, 323, 347, 371, 395, 419) sts.

Next rnd: K1, p1 through back loop (p1tbl), sl 1 pwise wyb while dropping




extra wrap, p1tbl, k1, *p1, k1, p1tbl, sl 1 pwise wyb while dropping extra wrap, p1tbl, k1; rep from *.

Work Rnds 1–4 of slipped seed st 12 (13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15) times, then work Rnds 1 and 2 once again.

Divide for ArmholesKeeping in patt, work 41 (46, 51, 55, 59, 63, 67) sts for right back, place next 56 (58, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76) sts onto holder or waste yarn for sleeve, turn work so WS is facing and use the cable method (see Glossary) to CO 14 (16, 18, 22, 26, 30, 34) sts, turn work so RS is facing, work 81 (91, 101, 109, 117, 125, 133) sts for front, place next 56 (58, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76) sts onto holder or waste yarn for other sleeve, turn work so WS is facing and use the cable method to CO 14 (16, 18, 22, 26, 30, 34) sts, turn work so RS is facing, work rem 41 (46, 51, 55, 59, 63, 67) sts for left back—191 (215, 239, 263, 287, 311, 335) sts rem; 41 (46, 51, 55, 59, 63, 67) sts for each back, 81 (91, 101, 109, 117, 125, 133) sts for front, 14 (16, 18, 22, 26, 30, 34) sts for each underarm.

Body

Working back and front sts in patt as established and working underarm sts in seed sts, work even for 10 (10, 14, 14, 18, 18, 22) rnds, ending with Rnd 2 of patt. SHAPE WAIST

Note: The decreases are worked on the 2 seed sts closest to the last slipped st of the slipped seed patt.Dec rnd: Work Rnd 3 of patt to last

slipped st before underarm seed sts, knit the next st, wrapping yarn twice, k2tog, work in seed st to 2 sts before next slipped st, ssk; rep from * once more, work to end in patt—4 sts dec’d.

Work 7 rnds even in patt.Rep the last 8 rnds 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times—179 (199, 223, 243, 267, 287, 311) sts rem.Cont for your size as foll.SIZES 303⁄4 (341⁄2, 381⁄2, 421⁄4, 461⁄4)" ONLY

Rep dec rnd, then work 3 rnds even. Rep the last 4 rnds 2 (1, 1, 0, 0) time(s)—167 (191, 215, 239, 263) sts rem.ALL SIZES

Work 4 rnds even, then purl 1 rnd—piece measures 4 (4¼, 41/2, 43/4, 5, 51/2, 53/4)" (10 [11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 14, 14.5] cm) from underarm CO.WAIST CASING

Knit 2 rnds.Eyelet rnd: [Yo] 2 times, k2tog, knit

to end.Next rnd: Knit yo while dropping extra

wrap, knit to end.Next rnd: K1 in the row below the st

on the needle, knit to end.Knit 1 rnd.Joining rnd: (see Glossary for How to

Join a Casing) *With left needle tip, lift back of st from 6 rows below and knit it tog with the next st on needle; rep from *.

Purl 1 rnd.Set-up rnd: Work 79 (91, 103, 115, 127,

139, 151) sts in seed st, place marker (pm), knit next st wrapping yarn twice,

p7, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, pm, work rem 79 (91, 103, 115, 127, 139, 151) sts in seed st.

Next rnd: Work in seed st to m, slip marker (sl m), sl 1 pwise wyb while dropping extra wrap, purl to 1 st before next m, sl 1 pwise wyb while dropping extra wrap, sl m, work in seed st to end.

Work 2 rnds in patt as established.SHAPE HIPS

Rnd 1: (inc rnd) Work in seed st to m, sl m, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, M1P, purl to 1 st before next m, M1P, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, sl m, work in seed st to end—2 sts inc’d.

Rnd 2: Work in seed st to m, sl m, sl 1 pwise wyb while dropping extra wrap, purl to 1 st before next m, sl 1 pwise wyb while dropping extra wrap, sl m, work in seed st to end.

Rnds 3 and 4: Work in seed st to m, sl m, sl 1 pwise wyb, purl to 1 st before next m, sl 1 pwise wyb, sl m, work in seed st to end.




7¼ (7½, 7¾, 8¼, 8½, 8¾, 9)"18.5 (19, 19.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 23) cm

4 (4¼, 4½, 4¾, 5, 5½, 5¾)"10 (11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 14, 14.5) cm

9¾"25 cm

30¾ (34½, 38½, 42¼, 46¼, 50¼, 54)"78 (87.5, 98, 107.5, 117.5, 127.5, 137) cm

12¼ (12¾, 13½, 14¾, 16¼, 17½, 18¾)"31 (32.5, 34.5, 37.5, 41.5, 44.5, 47.5) cm

31¾ (35¾, 39¾, 43¾, 47¾, 51¾, 55¾)"80.5 (91, 101, 111, 121.5, 131.5, 141.5) cm

26¾ (30½, 34½, 38¼, 42, 46, 49¾)"68 (77.5, 87.5, 97, 106.5, 117, 126.5) cm

15¼ (16¾, 18, 19¼, 20¾, 22, 23¼)"38.5 (42.5, 45.5, 49, 52.5, 56, 59) cm

Note: Dashed line represents casing.

Schematic

Rnd 5: Work in seed st to m, sl m, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, purl to 1 st before next m, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, sl m, work in seed st to end.

Rnds 6–12: Rep Rnds 2–5 once, then rep Rnds 2–4 once more.

Rep these 12 rnds 2 more times—173 (197, 221, 245, 269, 293, 317) sts.Next rnd: (inc rnd) Work 20 (22, 24, 28,

30, 34, 36) sts in seed st, (k1, yo, k1) all in next st, work in seed st to m, sl m, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, M1P, purl to 1 st before next m, M1P, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, sl m, work in seed st to last 21 (23, 25, 29, 31, 35, 37) sts, (k1, yo, k1) all in next st, work in seed st to end—179 (203, 227, 251, 275, 299, 323) sts.

Rep Rnds 2–12 once, then work Rnds 1–12 three times—185 (209, 233, 257, 281, 305, 329) sts.Next rnd: (inc rnd) Work 22 (24, 26, 30,

32, 36, 38) sts in seed st, (k1, yo, k1) all into next st, work in seed st to m,

sl m, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, M1P, purl to 1 st before next m, M1P, knit next st wrapping yarn twice, sl m, work in seed st to last 23 (25, 27, 31, 37, 39) sts, (k1, yo, k1) all into next st, work in seed st to end—191 (215, 239, 263, 287, 311, 335) sts.

Rep Rnds 2–12 once. Work 11 rnds even in seed st. BO all sts in patt.

SleevesPlace 56 (58, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76) held sleeve sts onto larger dpns, join yarn with RS facing, and pick up and knit 18 (20, 22, 26, 30, 34, 38) sts along underarm CO sts—74 (78, 82, 90, 98, 106, 114) sts total. Pm and join for working in rnds. Dec rnd: Work in seed st to last 2

sts, k2tog or p2tog as necessary to maintain patt—73 (77, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113) sts rem.

Work 7 rnds even in seed st. Loosely BO all sts in patt.

FinishingWeave in loose ends. Block to measure-ments (see Glossary).CORD

With smaller dpn and leaving a long tail about 4" (10 cm) long to help pull cord through casing, CO 2 sts. Work 2 st I-cord (see Glossary) until piece mea-sures 58 (62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82)" (147.5 [157.5, 167.5, 178, 188, 198, 208.5] cm) from CO.Next row: K2tog. Cut yarn and draw tail through rem st to fasten off.Thread long CO tail onto tapestry needle and tie a knot just below eye of needle, leaving enough to weave in after thread-ing cord through the casing. Carefully pull cord through casing. Weave in loose ends. Tie ends into a bow.With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew button opposite button loop.

KRISTEN TENDYKE is a knit and crochet designer from Maine. Her first book, Finish-Free Knits, is available from Interweave. Her website is www.kristentendyke.com.




FINISHED SIZE: About 31 (351⁄2, 40, 441⁄2, 483⁄4, 531⁄4)" (78.5 [90, 101.5, 113, 124, 135.5] cm) bust circumference. Sweater shown measures 351⁄2" (90 cm).YARN: Worsted-weight (CYCA #4 Medium) yarn. Shown here: Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed Cotton (100% cotton; 150 yd [137 m]/100 g): #619 tomato (MC), 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) skeins. Blue Sky Alpacas Organic Cotton (100% organic cotton; 150 yd [137 m]/100 g): #82 nut (CC), 1 skein (all sizes).NEEDLES: Body and sleeves—size 7 (4.5 mm): 29" (70 cm) circular (cir).

Edging—size 6 (4 mm): 16" or 24" (40 or 60 cm) cir or set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS: Markers (m); tapestry needle; a few yards (meters) of waste yarn.GAUGE: 18 stitches and 25 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needle.NOTES

• This sweater is worked in stockinette stitch—when working back and forth in rows, knit all RS rows and purl all

by WENDY BERNARDOriginally published in No Sheep for You Interweave 2007

Tomato

JOE

CO

CA




51⁄4 (51⁄4, 61⁄4, 7, 81⁄2, 93⁄4)"13.5 (13.5, 16, 18, 21.5, 25) cm

71 ⁄4 (8

1 ⁄4, 9

, 91 ⁄2

, 10,

101 ⁄2

)"18

.5 (2

1, 2

3, 2

4, 2

5.5,

26.

5) c

m15

3 ⁄4 (1

53 ⁄4, 1

51 ⁄4, 1

5, 1

51 ⁄2, 1

61 ⁄2)"

40 (4

0, 3

8.5,

38,

39.

5, 4

2) c

m

31 (351⁄2, 40, 441⁄2, 483⁄4, 531⁄4)"78.5 (90, 101.5, 113, 124, 135) cm

263⁄4 (31, 351⁄2, 40, 441⁄2, 483⁄4)"68 (78.5, 90, 101.5, 113, 124) cm

32 (361⁄2, 403⁄4, 451⁄4, 493⁄4, 541⁄4)"81.5 (92.5, 103.5, 115, 126.5, 138) cm

3⁄4"2 cm

111 ⁄2

(14,

151 ⁄2

, 163 ⁄4

, 173 ⁄4

, 19)

"29

(35.

5, 3

9.5,

42.

5, 4

5, 4

8.5)

cm

WS rows; when working in rounds, knit all rounds.

• If you desire a less dramatic neckline, hold the garment up to your body as you knit—making note that the neckline ribbing will add 11⁄2" (3.8 cm)—and, when the neckline is the desired length, cast on the 22 (22, 26, 30, 36, 42) center front neck stitches and join for working in the round (the sleeve and body increases will not be completed). Work until you have 70 (76, 84, 92, 100, 110) back stitches before dividing for armholes. Divide for armholes and continue working the pattern as instructed (without casting on any more stitches at center front, of course).

Upper BodyWith MC and larger size cir needle, CO 1 st for right front, place marker (pm), CO 6 (7, 8, 8, 8, 10) sts for right sleeve, pm, CO 24 (24, 28, 32, 38, 44) sts for back, pm, CO 6 (7, 8, 8, 8, 10) sts for left sleeve, pm, CO 1 st for left front—38 (40, 46, 50, 56, 66) sts total; 4 markers placed. Work upper body back and forth in rows as foll:Row 1: (RS) K1f&b (see Glossary), slip

marker (sl m), k1f&b, knit to 1 st before next m, k1f&b, sl m, k1f&b, knit to 1 st before next m, k1f&b, sl m, k1f&b, knit to 1 st before next m, k1f&b, sl m, k1f&b—8 sts inc’d; 46 (48, 54, 58, 64, 74) sts total.

Row 2: (WS) Purl.

Row 3: Knit to 1 st before first m, k1f&b, sl m, k1f&b, knit to 1 st before second m, k1f&b, sl m, k1f&b, knit to 1 st before third m, k1f&b, sl m, k1f&b, knit to 1 st before last marker, k1f&b, sl m, k1f&b, knit to end—8 sts inc’d. Rep the last 2 rows 21 (24, 26, 28, 29, 31) more times—222 (248, 270, 290, 304, 330) sts total; 24 (27, 29, 31, 32, 34) sts for each front; 52 (59, 64, 68, 70, 76) sts for each sleeve; 70 (76, 84, 92, 100, 110) sts for back. Work Row 2 once more—piece measures about 71⁄4 (81⁄4, 9, 91⁄2, 10, 101⁄2)" (18.5 [21, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5] cm) from CO.

DIVIDE FOR ARMHOLES: With RS facing, work across left front sts, place 52 (59, 64, 68, 70, 76) sleeve sts on waste yarn, removing markers, use the backward loop method (see Glossary) to CO 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 5) sts for underarm, pm for beg of rnd (it’s helpful to use a different colored marker here), CO 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 5) more sts as before, k70 (76, 84, 92, 100, 110) back sts, place next 52 (59, 64, 68, 70, 76) sts on waste yarn for other sleeve, removing markers, CO 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 5) sts as before, pm, CO 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 5) more sts as before, k24 (27, 29, 31, 32, 34) front sts, CO 22 (22, 26, 30, 36, 42) sts for center front, join for working in the rnd, knit to end of rnd—140 (160, 180, 200, 220, 240) sts total.

Lower BodyKnit 3 rnds. Change to CC and knit 1 rnd. Next rnd: Change to MC and dec 4 sts as foll: k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before next m, ssk, k1, sl m, k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before end-of-rnd m, ssk, k1—136 (156, 176, 196, 216, 236) sts rem. Work check patt as foll (note that it is not necessary to cut yarn when changing colors):Rnd 1: K1 with MC, *k1 with CC, k3

with MC; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1 with CC, k2 with MC.

Schematics




Rnd 2: *K1 with MC, k3 with CC; rep from * to end.

Rnd 3: *K3 with CC, k1 with MC; rep from * to end.

Rnd 4: K2 with MC, *k1 with CC, k3 with MC; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1 with CC, k1 with MC.

Rep Rnds 1–4 two more times—12 rnds total. Knit 1 rnd with MC. Knit 1 rnd with CC. Cont with MC until piece measures 43⁄4 (4, 31⁄2, 3, 3, 3)" (12 [10, 9, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5] cm) from underarm.SHAPE WAIST: Dec at each side “seam’’ as foll: K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before next m, ssk, k1, sl m, k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—4 sts dec’d. Knit 4 rnds even. Rep the last 5 rnds 3 more times—120 (140, 160, 180, 200, 220) sts rem. Cont even until piece measures 91⁄4 (81⁄2, 8, 73⁄4, 8, 71⁄2)" (23.5 [21.5, 20.5, 19.5, 20.5, 19] cm) from underarm. Inc at each side “seam’’ as foll: K1, M1 (see Glossary), knit to 1 st before next m, M1, k1, sl m, k1, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1—4 sts inc’d. Knit 4 rnds even. Rep the last 5 rnds 5 more times—144 (164, 184, 204, 224, 244) sts. Cont even until piece measures 141⁄4 (141⁄4, 133⁄4, 131⁄2, 14, 15)" (36 [36, 35, 34.5, 35.5, 38] cm) from

underarm, or about 11⁄2" (3.8 cm) less than desired total length. RIBBING: *K2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. Rep this rnd until a total of 11⁄2" (3.8 cm) of rib have been worked. Knit 2 rnds. Loosely BO all sts.

FinishingNECK EDGING: With MC, smaller cir needle or dpn, RS facing, and beg at the upper right back, pick up and knit 24 (24, 28, 32, 38, 44) sts along back neck, 5 (6, 7, 7, 7, 9) sts along top of left sleeve, 29 (31, 37, 40, 41, 43) sts along left front edge, pm, pick up and knit 16 (18, 20, 22, 26, 32) sts across center front neck, pm, pick up and knit 29 (31, 37, 40, 41, 43) sts along right front neck, and 5 (6, 7, 7, 7, 9) sts along top of right sleeve—108 (116, 136, 148, 160, 180) sts total. (NOTE: The number of sts you need to pick up for the neck edging may vary from this number, as long as it is a multiple of 4 sts; adjust your numbers as necessary to prevent the garment from puckering or gaping.) Pm and join for working in the rnd. Work in k2, p2 rib for 8 rnds. NEXT RND: Work in patt to first front neck m, sl m, work to first

k2 pair and knit these 2 sts tog, cont to work each k2 pair tog to next neck m, sl m, work in patt to end of rnd. Work 1 rnd even, working the sts as they present themselves. Loosely BO all sts. SLEEVE EDGING: With MC and RS facing, place 52 (59, 64, 68, 70, 76) held sleeve sts on smaller cir needle or dpn, pick up and knit 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 5) sts at underarm, pm, pick up and knit 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 5) sts at underarm—0 (4, 6, 8, 10, 10) sts total picked up (this will close the hole between the body and the sleeves so you won’t have to seam the area later); 52 (63, 70, 76, 80, 86) sts total. NEXT RND: Dec 4 (7, 10, 12, 12, 14) sts evenly spaced—48 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) sts rem. Work in k2, p2 rib for 4 rnds. Knit 1 rnd. Loosely BO all sts. Weave in loose ends. Block to measurements.

WENDY BERNARD is the author of Custom Knits and Custom Knits 2. She’s also featured in her Knitting Daily Work-shop Knitting From the Top Down with Wendy Bernard. She lives in Thousand Oaks, California.

Discover knitwear designs that will capture your imagination. You don’t have to be a designer or a knitting pro to make beautiful knitted garments and accessories, and you don’t have to hunt all over for inspiring designs.From cover to cover, Interweave Knits magazine gives you great projects, from the beginner to the advanced. Every issue is packed full of captivating smart designs, step-by-step instructions, easy-to-understand illustrations, plus well-written, lively articles sure to inspire.

interweaveknits.com

I N T E R W E A V E

KNITS




A dramatic slouch collar forms the focal point in this otherwise simple modified drop-shoulder sweater. The pieces are worked flat and then seamed; plain stockinette allows for custom body shaping. You’ll find this seeded rib edging in a few of my designs—it makes a great non-curling edge that doesn’t contract like traditional ribbing. In a chunky yarn and relaxed silhouette, this design is meant to be worn with positive ease for a comfortable outer layer. The V-neck shaping in both designs is similar and splits at about the same depth on the fronts.

FINISHED SIZE: About 47 (49, 521/2, 541/2, 58, 60, 631/2)" (119.5 [124.5, 133.5, 138.5, 147.5, 152.5, 161.5] cm) bust circumference. Sweater shown measures 47" (119.5 cm).

YARN: Heavy worsted weight (#5 Bulky).Shown here: Brown Sheep Lanaloft Worsted (100% wool; 160 yd [146 m]/100 g): #LL45 Manhattan mist (light blue), 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11) balls.NEEDLES: Body and sleeves: size U.S. 9 (5.5 mm): straight or 24" (60 cm) circular (cir). Ribbing: size U.S. 8 (5 mm): straight.Collar: size U.S. 9 (5.5 mm): 24" (60 cm) cir.Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS: Stitch holders; markers (m); removable marker; tapestry needle.GAUGE: 141/2 stitches and 20 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch.

by LISA SHROYEROriginally published in Knitting Plus Interweave 2011

Farrington Pullover

JOE

HA

NC

OC

K




NOTES

• A 24" (60 cm) or shorter size U.S. 9 (5.5 mm) circular needle is recommended for working the collar, but if you use a circular needle for the body, the same needle can also be used for the collar.

• The body length to the armhole gets progressively shorter with each size because the armhole depth gets progressively deeper with each size; the total length from cast-on edge to shoulder line for this project has been capped at 28" (71 cm), and the lengths for the individual sizes are 263/4 (271/2, 28, 28, 28, 28, 28)" (68 [70, 71, 71, 71, 71, 71] cm).

• Because the cross-back width gets progressively wider for the larger sizes, the sleeves get progressively shorter to prevent the cuff-to-cuff measurement from becoming too wide.

• This design features no body shaping; the hip and bust measurements are equal. A relaxed fit at the bust paired with a strained fit around the hips is neither attractive nor comfortable. Is your hip circumference larger than your bust? If so, consider working A-line shaping in the lower body. Working within the multiple of the rib pattern at the hem (multiple of 2 stitches + 3), cast on for your needed hip circumference. Then, starting several inches up from the cast on, gradually decrease to the stitch count for your bust size. This is a better solution than choosing a size based on the hip circumference, which would cause the garment to be far too large for you.

• Before altering stitch counts for the sleeves, carefully review the materials on drop-shoulder construction earlier in this chapter. The sleeve width and armhole depth are fundamentally linked; changing one means changing

the other (or you’ll face a seaming nightmare when trying to fit the sleeve into the armhole).

BackWith smaller needles, CO 85 (89, 95, 99, 105, 109, 115) sts. Row 1 (RS) Knit.Row 2 (WS) P2, *k1, p1; rep from * to

last 3 sts, k1, p2.Rep these 2 rows 4 more times—piece measures about 11/2" (3.8 cm) from CO. Change to larger needles and work in St st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows) until piece measures 17 (17, 161/2, 16, 151/2, 151/2, 15)" (43 [43, 42, 40.5, 39.5, 39.5,

38] cm) from CO (see Notes), ending with a WS row. SHAPE ARMHOLES

BO 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows—73 (77, 81, 85, 91, 93, 99) sts rem. Work even in St st until armholes measure 93/4 (101/2, 111/2, 12, 121/2, 121/2, 13)" (25 [26.5, 29, 30.5, 31.5, 31.5, 33] cm). Place sts on holder.

FrontWork as for back until 2 rows before armhole shaping, ending with a WS row—85 (89, 95, 99, 105, 109, 115) sts; piece measures about 161/2 (161/2, 16, 151/2, 15, 15, 141/2)" (42 [42, 40.5, 39.5, 38, 38, 37] cm) from CO. SHAPE NECK

Next row (RS) K42 (44, 47, 49, 52, 54, 57), BO center st, knit to end—42 (44, 47, 49, 52, 54, 57) sts rem each side. Work neck and armhole shaping separately for each side as foll (sts for left front may rem on needle while working sts of right front).RIGHT FRONT

Next row (WS) Purl to BO gap at center, turn.

Dec row (RS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in back (wyb), k1, ssk, knit to end—1 st dec’d at neck edge.

Next row (WS) BO 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) sts for armhole, purl to end—35 (37, 39, 41, 44, 45, 48) sts rem.

Slipping the first st of every RS row, rep dec row on the next 1 (3, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7) RS row(s), then every other RS row (i.e., every 4th row) 10 times—24 (24, 24, 26, 28, 29, 31) sts rem. Work even in St st until armhole measures 93/4 (101/2, 111/2, 12, 121/2, 121/2, 13)" (25 [26.5, 29, 30.5, 31.5, 31.5, 33] cm). Place sts on holder. LEFT FRONT

With WS facing, rejoin yarn to left front neck edge.Next row (WS) Purl.




Next row (RS) BO 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) sts, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—35 (37, 39, 41, 44, 45, 48) sts rem.

Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), purl to end.

Dec row (RS) Knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—1 st dec’d at neck edge.

Slipping the first st of WS rows, rep dec row on the next 0 (2, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) RS rows, then every other RS row 10 times—24 (24, 24, 26, 28, 29, 31) sts rem. Work even in St st until armhole measures 93/4 (101/2, 111/2, 12, 121/2, 121/2, 13)" (25 [26.5, 29, 30.5, 31.5, 31.5, 33] cm). Place sts on holder.SLEEVES

With smaller needles, CO 43 (43, 45, 45, 45, 47, 47) sts. Row 1 (RS) Knit.Row 2 (WS) P2, *k1, p1; rep from * to

last 3 sts, k1, p2.Rep these 2 rows 4 more times—piece measures about 11/2" (3.8 cm) from CO. Change to larger needles and work 2 rows in St st, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) K2, M1, knit to last 2 sts,

M1, k2—2 sts inc’d. [Work 7 (7, 5, 5, 3, 3, 1) row(s) even, then rep inc row] 5 (1, 4, 3, 20, 20, 4) time(s)—55 (47, 55, 53, 87, 89, 57) sts. Rep inc row every 6 (6, 4, 4, 0, 0, 4)th row 6 (13, 13, 16, 0, 0, 17) times—67 (73, 81, 85, 87, 89, 91) sts. Work even in St st until piece measures 211/2 (211/2, 211/2, 21, 21, 21, 201/2)" (54.5 [54.5, 54.5, 53.5, 53.5, 53.5, 52] cm) from CO (see Notes), ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

FinishingBlock pieces to measurements. With RS touching and WS facing out, use the three-needle method to BO 24 (24, 24, 26, 28, 29, 31) held back and right shoulder sts tog. Rep for left shoulder—25 (29, 33, 33, 35, 35, 37) center back sts rem on holder.

COLLAR

With 24" (60 cm) cir needle (see Notes) and RS facing, join yarn to beg of held center back sts. K25 (29, 33, 33, 35, 35, 37) back neck sts, pick up and knit 30 (32, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40) sts evenly spaced along left front neck to base of V-neck, pick up and knit 1 st from center front BO, then 30 (32, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40) sts evenly spaced along right front neck—86 (94, 106, 106, 112, 112, 118) sts total. Pm, and join for working in rnds; rnd beg at right shoulder.Inc rnd [K1f&b, k1] 12 (14, 16, 16, 17,

17, 18) times, k1f&b, pm for left shoulder, [k1, k1f&b] 15 (16, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20) times, k1 (center front st) and place a removable marker in this st, [k1f&b, k1] 15 (16, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20) times—129 (141, 159, 159, 168, 168, 177) sts; 38 (44, 50, 50, 53, 53, 56) back neck sts; 45 (48, 54, 54, 57, 57, 60) sts each side of 1 marked center front st.

Note: The collar is worked in rev St st (purl on RS, knit on WS). Turn the work so the WS of the collar is facing so you can work the collar rnds by knitting each rnd instead of purling. Move the removable marker up as you work so you can always identify the center front st. Cont as foll with WS (knit side) of collar facing:Rnd 1 (dec rnd) K44 (47, 53, 53, 56,

56, 59) along right front neck to 1 st before marked st at center front, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso, knit to end—2 sts dec’d at center front.

Rnd 2 Knit.Rnd 3 Knit to 1 st before marked st

at center front, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso, knit to end—2 sts dec’d.

Rnd 4 Knit.Rep the last 2 rnds 8 (9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10) more times—109 (119, 137, 137, 144, 144, 153) sts rem; collar measures about 41/4 (41/2, 41/2, 41/2, 5, 5, 5)" (11 [11.5,

11.5, 11.5, 12.5, 12.5, 12.5] cm) from pick-up rnd, measured straight up along a single column of sts (not along the mitered dec line at center front). Work short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (knit side) Knit to 1 st

before marked st at center front, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso, knit to 6 sts beyond m at left shoulder (not beg-of-rnd m at right shoulder), wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 2 (purl side) Purl to 6 sts past beg-of-rnd m, wrap next st, turn.

Short-rows 3, 5, and 7 Knit to 1 st before marked st at center front, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso, knit to 6 sts




before previously wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.

Short-rows 4, 6, and 8 Purl to 6 sts before previously wrapped st, wrap next st, turn.

Next row Knit to beg-of-rnd m at right shoulder; there is no need to work the wraps tog with the wrapped sts because the purl bumps will hide them—101 (111, 129, 129, 136, 136, 145) sts rem.

Beg working in rnds again and knit 1 rnd across all sts. Dec rnd K1 (1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 1), *k2tog; rep

from *—51 (56, 65, 65, 68, 68, 73) sts rem.

Knit 1 rnd—collar measures about 63/4 (7, 7, 7, 71/2, 71/2, 71/2)" (17 [18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19] cm) from pick-up rnd in front and 43/4 (5, 5, 5, 51/2, 51/2, 51/2)" (12 [12.5, 12.5, 12.5, 14, 14, 14] cm) in back, measured along a single column of sts. BO all sts kwise.With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew sleeve tops into armholes, matching midpoint of each sleeve with shoulder seam and easing to fit. Sew sleeve and side seams. Weave in loose ends. Block again if desired.

LISA SHROYER is the editor of Knitscene magazine. She lives, works, and knits in North Carolina.

23½ (24½, 26¼, 27¼, 29, 30, 31¾)"59.5 (62, 66.5, 69, 73.5, 76, 80.5) cm

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18½ (20, 22¼, 23½, 24, 24½, 25)"47 (51, 56.5, 59.5, 61, 62, 63.5) cm

Back+

Front

Sleeve

Schematics




KA

THRY

N M

AR

TIN

FINISHED SIZE: 32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50)" bust circumference. Sweater shown measures 34", modeled with zero ease. YARN: The Fibre Company Road to China Light (65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% camel, 10% cashmere; 159 yd [145 m]/50 g): riverstone (taupe; MC), 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12) skeins; ruby (CC1), 2 skeins; citrine (yellow; CC2), aquamarine (blue; CC3), and malachite (green; CC4), 1 skein each. Yarn distributed by Kelbourne Woolens.NEEDLES: Size 2 (2.75 mm): 16" and 24" circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn). Size 4 (3.5 mm): 16" and

24" cir and set of 4 or 5 dpn. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS: Markers (m; including one contrasting m); stitch holders; tapestry needle.GAUGE: 24 sts and 32 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle, blocked.

Stitch GuideSEED STITCH: (multiple of 2 sts)Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.Rnd 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to end.

by COURTNEY KELLEYOriginally published in Interweave Knits Fall 2009

Freyja Sweater




Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for patt.

SEED STITCH: (multiple of 2 sts + 1)Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.Rnd 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for patt.NOTE

• Work seed stitch with a multiple of two stitches when stitch count is an even number; work seed stitch with a multiple of two stitches plus one when stitch count is an odd number.

BodyWith MC and smaller, longer cir needle, CO 192 (204, 216, 228, 240, 252, 264, 276, 288, 300) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work 96 (102, 108, 114, 120, 126, 132, 138, 144, 150) sts in seed st (see Stitch Guide), pm for side seam, cont in seed st to end. Work in seed st until piece measures 1 (1, 1, 11⁄2, 11⁄2, 11⁄2, 11⁄2, 11⁄2, 11⁄2, 13⁄4)" from CO. Change to larger, longer cir needle and

work 9 (9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12) rnds in St st. SHAPE WAIST: *K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before side m, k2tog, k1; rep from * once more—4 sts dec’d. Work 9 (9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12) rnds even. Rep last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12, 13, 13) rnds 2 more times, then rep dec rnd once more—176 (188, 200, 212, 224, 236, 248, 260, 272, 284) sts rem. Work even for 23⁄4 (3, 3, 3, 3, 31⁄2, 31⁄2, 31⁄2, 33⁄4, 33⁄4)". SHAPE BUST: *K1, M1, knit to 1 st before m, M1, k1; rep from * once more—4 sts inc’d. Work 9 (9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12) rnds even. Rep last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12, 13, 13) rnds 2 more times, then rep inc rnd once more—192 (204, 216, 228, 240, 252, 264, 276, 288, 300) sts. Work even until piece measures 15 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19)" from CO. DIVIDE FOR ARMHOLES: Work to side m, remove m, k8 (8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12), place last 16 (16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22, 24) sts worked on holder,

work to end of rnd, remove m, k8 (8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12), place last 16 (16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22, 24) sts worked on holder. Set aside.

SleevesWith MC and smaller dpn, CO 58 (61, 65, 68, 72, 76, 80, 83, 86, 90) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in seed st for 1". Change to larger dpn and St st. Work 8 (9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) rnds even. SHAPE SLEEVE: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13) rnds 3 more times—50 (53, 57, 60, 64, 68, 72, 75, 78, 82) sts rem. Work 8 (9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) rnds even. Inc rnd: K1, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep last 9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13) rnds 9 more times—70 (73, 77, 80, 84, 88, 92, 95, 98, 102) sts. Work even until piece measures 16 (17, 17, 17, 181⁄2, 181⁄2, 191⁄2, 20, 20, 21)" from CO, ending last rnd 8 (8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) sts before end of rnd. Place next 16 (16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22, 24) sts on holder.

YokeWith MC, k80 (86, 90, 96, 102, 106, 112, 116, 122, 126) front sts, pm, k54 (57, 59, 62, 66, 68, 72, 73, 76, 78) right-sleeve sts, pm, k40 (43, 45, 48, 51, 53, 56, 58, 61, 63) back sts, place contrasting m for new beg of rnd, k40 (43, 45, 48, 51, 53, 56, 58, 61, 63) back sts, pm, k54 (57, 59, 62, 66, 68, 72, 73, 76, 78) left-sleeve sts, pm—268 (286, 298, 316, 336, 348, 368, 378, 396, 408) sts. Knit to end of rnd, then work 3 more rnds even. Dec rnd: *Knit to 3 sts before m, ssk, k1, sl m, k1, k2tog; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end—8 sts dec’d. Work 2 rnds even. Rep last

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0.5,

32.

5, 3

3.5,

35,

36,

38)

cm

32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50)"81.5 (86.5, 91.5, 96.5, 101.5, 106.5, 112, 117, 122, 127) cm

19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28)"48.5 (51, 53.5, 56, 58.5, 61, 63.5, 66, 68.5, 71) cm

113⁄4 (121⁄4, 123⁄4, 131⁄4, 14, 143⁄4, 151⁄4, 153⁄4, 161⁄4, 17)"30 (31, 32.5, 33.5, 35.5, 37.5, 38.5, 40, 41.5, 43) cm

15 (1

5, 1

6, 1

6, 1

7, 1

7, 1

8, 1

8, 1

9, 1

9)"

38 (3

8, 4

0.5,

40.

5, 4

3, 4

3, 4

5.5,

45.

5, 4

8.5,

48.

5) c

m

81 ⁄4 (8

1 ⁄2, 8

1 ⁄2, 8

3 ⁄4, 9

1 ⁄4, 9

1 ⁄4, 9

3 ⁄4, 9

3 ⁄4, 1

01 ⁄4, 1

01 ⁄4)"

21 (2

1.5,

21.

5, 2

2, 2

3.5,

23.

5, 2

5, 2

5, 2

6, 2

6) c

m

291⁄4 (311⁄4, 331⁄4, 351⁄4, 371⁄4, 391⁄4, 411⁄4, 431⁄4, 451⁄4, 471⁄4)"74.5 (79.5, 84.5, 89.5, 94.5, 99.5, 105, 110, 115, 120) cm

16 (17, 17, 17, 181⁄2, 181⁄2, 191⁄2, 20, 20, 21)"40.5 (43, 43, 43, 47, 47, 49.5, 51, 51, 53.5) cm

body

Schematic




3 rnds 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) more times—236 (246, 258, 276, 288, 300, 312, 322, 332, 344) sts rem. Dec rnd: *Knit to 3 sts before m, ssk, k1, sl m, k1, k2tog; rep from * 3 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) more times, knit to end—228 (240, 252, 268, 280, 292, 304, 314, 324, 336) sts rem. Work 2 rnds even. Next rnd: [K2tog] 0 (0, 0, 4, 4, 4, 4, 2, 0, 0) times evenly spaced—228 (240, 252, 264, 276, 288, 300, 312, 324, 336) sts rem. Work short-rows (see Glossary) as foll: Knit to 7 sts before m (before left sleeve), wrap next st, turn; purl to m, then purl to 7 sts before next m (before right sleeve), wrap next st, turn. *Knit to 7 sts before

previously wrapped st, wrap next st, turn; purl to 7 sts before previously wrapped st, wrap next st, turn; rep from * 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) more times—4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) sets of short-rows total. Knit to end of rnd, working wraps tog with wrapped sts as you come to them. Knit 1 rnd, hiding rem wraps. Work Rows 1–25 of Sweater chart. Note: On Row 25, work first st (shown as no st) as k1 with CC2, then work as charted to last 2 sts of rnd, work last k3tog using last 2 sts of rnd and first st of next rnd, pm after k3tog for beg of rnd—152 (160, 168, 176, 184, 192, 200, 208, 216, 224) sts rem. After chart is complete, knit 2 rnds

with MC only. Next rnd: *K6, k2tog; rep from * to end—133 (140, 147, 154, 161, 168, 175, 182, 189, 196) sts rem. Knit 2 rnds. Next rnd: *K5, k2tog; rep from * to end—114 (120, 126, 132, 138, 144, 150, 156, 162, 168) sts rem. Change to smaller cir needle and work 3⁄4" in seed st. BO all sts. Graft underarms with Kitchener st (see Glossary). Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.

COURTNEY KELLEY is co-owner of Kelbourne Woolens, distributor of The Fibre Company’s artisan yarns. Find out more by viewing her blog at www.kelbournewoolens.com/blog.

knit with MC

purl with MC

knit with CC1

purl with CC1

k3tog with CC1

knit with CC2

k3tog with CC2

knit with CC3

purl with CC3

knit with CC4

purl with CC4

no stitch

pattern repeat

knit with MC

purl with MC

knit with CC1

purl with CC1

k3tog with CC1

knit with CC2

k3tog with CC2

knit with CC3

purl with CC3

knit with CC4

purl with CC4

no stitch

pattern repeat

* Work as given in directions

*25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Sweater




For this short pullover, Alice Halbeisen designed a twist on the classic V-neck style. She began with a wide band of twisted ribbing (the knit stitches are worked through the back loops) at the hem to draw in the pullover at the waist. Then she extended the ribs in a triangular pattern to the base of the neckline on the front to enhance the slimming look and worked a similar triangular pattern at each sleeve cuff. Alice defined and emphasized the neck and armhole edges with directional decreases that follow the lines of the shaping (called "full-fashioned" shaping). A narrow rolled edge adds a casual finish to the neckband.

FINISHED SIZE: About 303/4 (34, 371/4, 401/2, 431/2)" (78 [86.5, 94.5, 103, 110.5] cm) bust circumference. To fit bust sizes 30–32 (34–36, 37–39, 40–42, 43–461/2)" (76–81.5 [86.5–

91.5, 94–99, 101.5–106.5, 109–118] cm). Sweater shown measures 34" (86.5 cm). Note: This sweater is designed for a close body-conscious fit.YARN: DK weight (#3 Light).Shown here: Filatura di Crosa Zara (100% merino; 137 yd [125 m]/50 g): #1461 burgundy, 7 (8, 9, 9, 10) balls.NEEDLES: Size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm): 24" (60 cm) circular (cir). Size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): 24" and 16" (60 and 40 cm) cir. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS: Markers (m); removable marker; stitch holder; tapestry needle.GAUGE: 20 stitches and 27 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on smaller needle, worked in rounds; 24 stitches and 27 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in twisted rib pattern on smaller needle, worked in rounds.

by ALICE HALBEISENOriginally published in Simple Style Interweave 2009

Twisted-V Pullover

JOE

HA

NC

OC

K




Stitch GuideTwisted Rib worked in Rounds (multiple of 2 sts)All Rnds: *K1 through back loop (tbl),

p1; rep from *.Twisted Rib worked in Rows (multiple

of 2 sts + 1)Row 1: (RS) *K1tbl, p1; rep from * to

last st, k1tbl.Row 2: (WS) *P1tbl, k1; rep from * to

last st, p1tbl. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern. NOTES

• Once you begin the chart, the rest of the body/sleeve stitches are worked in stockinette stitch.

• To lengthen the body, work more rounds of twisted rib before beginning the charted pattern.

Lower BodyWith larger needle, CO 154 (170, 186, 202, 218) sts. Place marker (pm) and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts. Next rnd: Work twisted rib (see Stitch Guide) across 77 (85, 93, 101, 109) sts for front, pm (it’s helpful to use a marker of a different color here), beg with a purl st, cont in patt to end—77 (85, 93, 101, 109) sts each for front and back. Work even as established until piece measures 2" (5 cm) from CO. Change to smaller 24" (60 cm) cir needle. Cont as established until piece measures 7" (18 cm) from CO. Set-up rnd: K14 (18, 22, 26, 30), pm, work next 49 sts according to Row 1 of Twisted Rib chart, pm, knit to end of rnd. Cont as established through Row 26 of chart. Knit 2 rnds—piece measures about 111/4" (28.5 cm) from CO. SHAPE V-NECK

K38 (42, 46, 50, 54) for left front, place removable marker through next

st and remove it from needle, turn work. Working back and forth in rows (center front is beg of row), purl 1 row. Next row: (RS) K1, ssk (see Glossary), knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 neck sts dec’d. Dec 1 st at each neck edge in this manner every 4th row 10 (11, 11, 13, 13) more times and at the same time when piece measures 12 (121/2, 121/2, 13, 131/2)" (30.5 [31.5, 31.5, 33, 34.5] cm) from CO, on a RS row, knit to right underarm, join a second ball of yarn and knit to left underarm, place the last 77 (85, 93, 101, 109) sts worked on holder for back, knit to end of row.

FrontSHAPE ARMHOLES

Working each side separately and cont to work neck shaping as established, at each armhole edge, BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts once, then BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) sts once, then dec 1 st every RS row 5 (5, 6, 7, 8) times—16 (18, 20, 20, 22) sts rem each side when all armhole and neck shaping is complete. Work even until armholes measure 7 (71/2, 8, 8, 81/2)" (18 [19, 20.5, 20.5, 21.5] cm).SHAPE SHOULDERS

At each armhole edge, BO 5 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts 2 times, then BO rem 6 (6, 8, 8, 8) sts.

BackReturn 77 (85, 93, 101, 109) back sts to smaller cir needle. Rejoin yarn with RS facing.SHAPE ARMHOLES

BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) sts at beg of foll 2 rows—65 (71, 77, 83, 89) sts rem. Dec 1 st each end of needle every RS row 5 (5, 6, 7, 8) times—55 (61, 65, 69, 73) sts rem. Work even until armholes measure 7 (71/2, 8, 8, 81/2)" (18 [19, 20.5,

20.5, 21.5] cm), ending with a RS row.SHAPE NECK AND SHOULDERS

(WS) P18 (20, 22, 22, 24), join a second ball of yarn and p19 (21, 21, 25, 25), place the last 19 (21, 21, 25, 25) sts worked on holder, purl to end—18 (20, 22, 22, 24) sts rem each side. Working each side separately, dec 1 st at each neck edge every RS row 2 times and at the same time at each armhole edge BO 5 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts 2 times, then BO rem 6 (6, 8, 8, 8) sts.

SleevesWith smaller cir needle, CO 37 (37, 41, 41, 45) sts. Do not join. Work back and forth in twisted rib until piece measures 11/2" (3.8 cm), ending with a WS row. Next row: (RS) K2 (2, 4, 4, 6), work next 33 sts according to sleeve portion of Twisted Rib chart (beg on chart Row 9), k2 (2, 4, 4, 6). Work as established through Row 26 of chart—18 chart rows worked. Change to St st. Work 2 rows even. Inc row: (RS) K1, M1 (see Glossary), knit to last st, M1, k1—2 sts inc’d. Inc 1 st each end of needle in this manner every 4th row 0 (2, 2, 1, 2) more time(s), then every 6th row 6 (6, 6, 9, 11) times—51 (55, 59, 63, 73) sts. Work even until piece measures 18 (19, 19, 191/4, 191/2)" (45.5 [48.5, 48.5, 49, 49.5] cm) from CO or desired length to armhole, ending with a WS row. SHAPE CAP

BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) sts at beg of foll 2 rows—39 (41, 43, 45, 53) sts rem. Dec 1 st each end of needle every 4th row 1 (2, 0, 0, 2) time(s), then every RS row 7 (7, 8, 9, 9) times—23 (23, 27, 27, 31) sts rem. Work even until cap measures 41/2 (5, 51/2, 51/2, 6)" (11.5 [12.5, 14, 14, 15] cm), ending with a WS row.




k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

k1tbl on RS; p1tbl on WS

sleeve chart boundary

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Twisted RibTWISTED RIB

3¼ (3½, 4, 4, 4½)"8.5 (9, 10, 10, 11.5) cm

25¾ (28¼, 31, 33¾, 36¼)"65.5 (72, 78.5, 85.5, 92) cm

4½ (5, 5, 5¾, 5¾)"11.5 (12.5, 12.5, 14.5, 14.5) cm

7 (7½, 8, 8, 8½)"18 (19, 20.5, 20.5, 21.5) cm

12 (12½, 12½, 13, 13½)" 30.5 (31.5, 31.5, 33, 34.5) cm

¾"2 cm

6¼ (6¼, 6¾, 6¾, 7½)"16 (16, 17, 17, 19) cm

18 (1

9, 1

9, 1

9¼, 1

9½)"

45.5

(48.

5, 4

8.5,

49,

49.

5) c

m

4¾ (5

¼, 5

¾, 5

¾, 6

¼)"

12 (1

3.5,

14.

5, 1

4.5,

16)

cm

10¼ (11, 11¾, 12½, 14½)"26 (28, 30, 31.5, 37) cm

30¾ (34, 37¼, 40½, 43½)"78 (86.5, 94.5, 103, 110.5) cm

7¾ (8¾, 9¼, 9¾, 10¾)"19.5 (22, 23.5, 25, 27.5) cm

3 (3, 3, 3, 3¾)"7.5 (7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 9.5) cm

Front & Back

Sleeve

Halbeisen Rib Pullover

3¼ (3½, 4, 4, 4½)"8.5 (9, 10, 10, 11.5) cm

25¾ (28¼, 31, 33¾, 36¼)"65.5 (72, 78.5, 85.5, 92) cm

4½ (5, 5, 5¾, 5¾)"11.5 (12.5, 12.5, 14.5, 14.5) cm

7 (7½, 8, 8, 8½)"18 (19, 20.5, 20.5, 21.5) cm

12 (12½, 12½, 13, 13½)" 30.5 (31.5, 31.5, 33, 34.5) cm

¾"2 cm

6¼ (6¼, 6¾, 6¾, 7½)"16 (16, 17, 17, 19) cm

18 (1

9, 1

9, 1

9¼, 1

9½)"

45.5

(48.

5, 4

8.5,

49,

49.

5) c

m

4¾ (5

¼, 5

¾, 5

¾, 6

¼)"

12 (1

3.5,

14.

5, 1

4.5,

16)

cm

10¼ (11, 11¾, 12½, 14½)"26 (28, 30, 31.5, 37) cm

30¾ (34, 37¼, 40½, 43½)"78 (86.5, 94.5, 103, 110.5) cm

7¾ (8¾, 9¼, 9¾, 10¾)"19.5 (22, 23.5, 25, 27.5) cm

3 (3, 3, 3, 3¾)"7.5 (7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 9.5) cm

Front & Back

Sleeve

Halbeisen Rib Pullover

Schematic




BO 4 (4, 6, 6, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows—15 (15, 15, 15, 19) sts rem. BO all sts.

FinishingBlock pieces to measurements. Weave in loose ends. SEAMS

With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew front to back at shoulders. Sew sleeve caps into armholes, matching centers of caps to shoulder seams. Sew sleeve seams.

NECKBAND

With shorter cir needle, RS facing, and beg at left shoulder seam, pick up and purl (see Glossary) 39 (44, 47, 49, 54) sts (about 3 sts for every 4 rows) along left front neck, purl marked center st, pick up and purl 39 (44, 47, 49, 54) sts along right front neck to shoulder, 3 sts to back neck holder, p19 (21, 21, 25, 25) back neck sts from holder, pick up and purl 3 sts to shoulder—104 (116, 122, 130, 140) sts total. Pm and join for working in rnds. Dec rnd:

Knit to 2 sts before marked center st, k2tog, k1 (marked center st), ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec’d. Rep dec rnd every rnd 3 more times. BO all sts kwise.

ALICE HALBEISEN lives in Lowell, Mas-sachusetts. When she doesn’t have nee-dles (or a crochet hook) in her hand, she is squishing pests in her organic garden or burying her nose in a book.


glossary CARDIGAN, PULLOVER AND SWEATER PATTERNS: 7 FREE SWEATER KNITTING PATTERNS


Knit Stitch (k)With yarn held to the back of the work, insert the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle from bottom of the stitch to top and from the front of the stitch to the back. Wrap yarn around right-needle tip counterclockwise. Slip the right needle back through the stitch, carrying the wrapped yarn with it, then drop the worked stitch off the left needle. Gently tighten the yarn. One knit stitch completed on right needle.

Purl Stitch (p)With yarn held to the front of the work, insert the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle from the top of the stitch to the bottom and from the back of the stitch to the front. Wrap the yarn around the right-needle tip counterclockwise. Draw the right needle back through the stitch carrying the wrapped yarn with it, drop the worked stitch of the left needle and gently tighten the yarn. One purl stitch com-pleted on right needle.

Cable Cast-OnBegin with a slipknot and one knitted cast-on stitch if there are no established stitches. Insert right needle be tween first two stitches on left needle (Figure 1). Wrap yarn as if to knit. Draw yarn through to complete stitch (Figure 2) and slip this new stitch to left needle as shown (Figure 3).

Figure 2Figure 1 Figure 3

ABBREVIATIONS

Illus

trat

ions

by

Gay

le F

ord

CO cast on k knit k1f&b knit into front and back of

same st k2tog knit two stitches together kwise knitwise p purl p1f&b purl into front and back of

same st p2tog purl two stitches together psso pass slipped stitch over

p2sso pass two slipped stitches over

pwise purlwise rev St st reverse stockinette stitch rib ribbing sl st slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise

unless otherwise indi-cated)

ssk slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)

ssp slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, p2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)

St st stockinette stitch tbl through back loop wyb with yarn in back wyf with yarn in front

Figure 1 Figure 2

Figure 3

Bar Increase (K1f&b)Knit into a stitch and leave it on the needle (Figure 1). Knit through the back loop of the same stitch (Figure 2). Slip both stitches off the needle (Figure 3).

I-CordWith double-pointed needle, cast on desired number of stitches. *Without turning the needle, slide the stitches to other end of the needle, pull the yarn around the back, and knit the stitches as usual; repeat from * for desired length.




Short-Rows: Wrapping a StitchWork to turn point, slip next stitch purlwise to right needle. Bring yarn to front (Figure 1). Slip same stitch back to left needle (Figure 2). Turn work and bring yarn in position for next stitch, wrapping the stitch as you do so. Note: Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right side of piece is worked in a knit stitch. Leave wrap if the purl stitch shows on right side. Hide wraps as follows: Knit stitch: On right side, work to just before wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from front, under the wrap from bottom up, and then into wrapped stitch as usual. Knit them together, making sure new stitch comes out under wrap. Purl stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and put on left needle. Purl them together.

Figure 2

Figure 1

Purl 2 together (p2tog)Purl two stitches together as if they were a single stitch.

Knit 2 together (k2tog)Knit two stitches together as if they were a single stitch.

Backward-Loop Cast-On*Loop working yarn and place it on needle backward so that it doesn’t unwind. Repeat from *.

Standard Bind-Off (BO)Knit the first stitch, *knit the next stitch (2 stitches on right needle), insert left needle tip into first stitch on right needle (Figure 1) and lift this stitch up and over the second stitch (Figure 2) and off the needle (Figure 3). Repeat from * for the desired number of stitches.

Figure 3Figure 2Figure 1

Left Slant (M1L) With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the back (Figure 2).

Figure 1 Figure 2

Raised (M1) IncreasesRight Slant (M1R) With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the front (Figure 2).

Figure 1 Figure 2

Slip two stitches knitwise one at a time (Figure 1). Insert point of left needle into front of two slipped stitch es and knit them together through back loops with right needle (Figure 2).

Figure 2Figure 1

Ssk Decrease

Illus

trat

ions

by

Gay

le F

ord

Place stitches to be joined onto two separate needles. Hold them with right sides of knitting facing together. Insert a third needle into first stitch on each of the other two needles and knit them together as one stitch. *Knit next stitch on each needle the same way. Pass first stitch over second stitch. Repeat from * until one stitch remains on third needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through last stitch.

Three-Needle Bind-Off




Kitchener StitchSTEP 1: Bring threaded needle

through front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle.

STEP 2: Bring threaded needle through back stitch as if to knit and leave stitch on needle.

STEP 3: Bring threaded needle through same front stitch as if to knit and slip this stitch off needle. Bring threaded needle through next front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle.

STEP 4: Bring threaded needle through first back stitch as if to purl (as illustrated), slip this stitch off, bring needle through next back stitch as if to knit, leave this stitch on needle.

Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until no stitches remain on needles.

Crochet Chain (Provisional)With waste yarn and crochet hook, make a loose chain of about four stitches more than you need to cast on. With needle, working yarn, and beginning two stitches from end of chain, pick up and knit one stitch through the back loop of each crochet chain (Figure 1) for desired number of stitches. Work the piece as desired, and when you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, pull out the crochet chain to expose live stitches (Figure 2).

Figure 2

Figure 1

Pick up and PurlWith wrong side of work facing and working from right to left, *in-sert needle tip under selvedge stitch from the far side to the near side (Figure 1), wrap yarn around needle, and pull a loop through (Figure 2). Repeat from * for de-sired number of stitches.

Figure 1 Figure 2

How to join a casingA small casing for an I-cord tie is worked at the waist of this sweater. Six rounds of stockinette stitch form the casing. The casing is joined into a tube on the next round when the stitches on the needle are worked together with the loops on the wrong side of the stitches 6 rounds below as follows:

Joining rnd: *Bring the yarn to the front of the work to get it out of the way, then fold the left needle toward you so you can see the wrong side of the work. Beginning with the stitch on the needle, insert the left needle tip into the back of corresponding stitch 6 rows below the stitch on the needle (Figure 1), then bring the yarn to the back and knit this loop together with the first stitch on the needle as k2tog (Figure 2) to join the 2 rows. Repeat from * to the end of the round.

Figure 2

Figure 1

BlockingSTEAM BLOCKINGPin the pieces to be blocked to a blocking surface. Hold an iron set on the steam setting 1/2" (1.3 cm) above the knitted surface and direct the steam over the entire surface (except ribbing). You can get similar results by lapping wet cheese-cloth on top of the knitted surface and touching it lightly with a dry iron. Lift and set down the iron gently; do not use a pushing motion.

WET-TOWEL BLOCKINGRun a large bath or beach towel (or two towels for larger projects) through the rinse/spin cycle of a washing machine. Roll the knitted pieces in the wet towel(s), place the roll in a plastic bag, and leave overnight so that the knitted pieces become uniformly damp. Pin the damp pieces to a blocking surface and let air-dry thoroughly.


CARDIGAN, PULLOVER AND SWEATER PATTERNS: 7 FREECardigan, Pullover and Sweater Patterns: 7 Free...

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Transcript of CARDIGAN, PULLOVER AND SWEATER PATTERNS: 7 FREECardigan, Pullover and Sweater Patterns: 7 Free...