Cape St Francis Guide

8/4/2019 Cape St Francis Guide

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NIEL MOSTERT

CAPE ST. FRANCISSEASIDE BOULDERING IN THE

INDEPENDENT STATE OF THE EASTERN CAPE

1st Edition


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On the Cover:Martin Renz on Spongebob (7A), The Cove

Cape St. Francis Seaside Bouldering in the Independent State ofthe Eastern Cape1st EditionDec 006Author: Niel Mostert

Queries and Info

Contact: Dricus BezuidenhoutCell: 08 446 9819

Contact: Morne van der MeschtCell: 07 16 6886e-mail: [email protected]

CONTENTS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

THE HISTORY 5

ACCOMODATION

IMPORTANT STUFF 5

KEY TO USING THIS GUIDE 6

ROAD MAP 7

THE COVE 8

SEASIDE AREA 1

THE TREASURE CHEST 1


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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The Author would like to thank the following climbers:

Morne van der Mescht Dricus BezuidenhoutJessica Jeffries Marisa SteynMartin Renz

The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun-Alex Lowe

You guys completely personify this quote and your enthusiasm toexplore and develop this area has led to the creation of an awesomebouldering area in a unique setting. This guide is only a start, thereis still huge potential left for this area. Many thanks for the dedica-tion, input and sharp eyes for some great problems.

Im extremely lucky to have had the opportunity to get to know andclimb with you all.

Keep the spirit alive.

Niel MostertDec 006

THE HISTORY

For many years there have been bits of information oating aroundamongst the Eastern Cape climbers about bouldering some of themhad done at Cape St Francis whilst on holiday there with family,driving around, etc. It seems though, that no-one had ever goneand done proper exploring and developing. There were also rumoursof early bouldering there back in the 80s, but again no-one couldsupply any concrete information.

A rainy day in Port Elizabeth in September 006 saw myself, Dricus,Morne, Jessica and Martin drive there to go and have a look. Whatstarted out as a rainy rest day quickly turned into an awesome daysbouldering, with all the current problems in The Cove area openedin a day. This of course was all the motivation needed and theSeaside area and Treasure Chest area were developed in thefollowing months.

Facing the ocean, the lighthouse on the left and the Treasure Chestarea on the right now form the borders of the current developedbouldering area. This is not because there is nothing else to climb,its simply because its human nature to get lazy. More exploring willno doubt reveal some excellent problems.

The towns history I know little of, unfortunately. Im sure, howeverthat exploring this beautiful little seaside village on your rest dayswill be well worth it.

ACCOMMODATION

There is a caravan park in Cape St. Francis as well as several guesthouses in the area. You can also nd a place to stay in Humansdorpor Jeffreys Bay.

COMPLAINTS DEPARTMENT

To the best of the authors knowledge, none of the problems fea-tured in this guide have been formerly climbed,named and graded.Please direct any complaints to the given Contact Persons (insidecover page).


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IMPORTANT STUFF

1. NO LITTERING!!! ANYWHERE!!! EVER!!!. The climbing areas all form part of the Seal Point Nature

Reserve. This reserve is open to the public with no entrance/exit control and there are no access issues yet. Please dontcompromise access and keep your impact minimal, eg cleanoff chalk and tickmarks when youre nished andDO NOT LITTER.

. Parking is generally safe, but as a precaution rather dont

leave your valuables in the car.4. Have good sunscreen and a hat in summer, there is very

little shade.5. Mind the tide! Some of the areas are on rocks right next to

the waters edge. Dont let your stuff get washed away whenyoure not looking.

6. The rock in some areas may on the odd occasion be schlaukydepending on the wind direction and whether the rock isfacing the ocean or not. Just shop around until yound some good dry rock.

7. Be creative and open some new problems.8. Please notify the contact persons (inside cover page) when

any of the projects or new problems are opened so that theguide can be updated.

SS = Sit startTO = Top Out

ROAD MAP

KEY TO USING THIS GUIDE

1. All problems marked SS are sit-start, otherwise start from astanding position.

. The markers in this guide are only for general guidance. Theaim is to show where you start, more or less which directionyou head and where you end. Use your common sense tond the right (and best) holds.

There are several roadsleading into Humansdorpfrom the N. Please consult anational roadmap for betterguidance.Coming into Humansdorpfrom Jeffreys Bays side, turnleft at the culture museumand go down the mainstreet. Turn left again at theT-junction in front of thecaravan park and keep goingstraight (ie. no turn-offs) allthe way into Cape St Francis.Once there refer to map above to locate the climbing parking areas.


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From the car park area follow the path to the left for a shortdistance. Look for the footpath leading off to the right pasta bench and rubbish bin. Follow this footpath past some big

rocks coming up on the left and scramble up onto the at-top rock band on the right. The Cove is now on your right.Find a place to scramble down to the Cove. There is an easierscramble-down if you keep going straight to the end of therock band, scramble down and U-turn back to The Cove.

THE COVE

1. Open Project.Climb the arte.

2. Fishnger (6B)SS. Do second move to good hold, then big move to crackand climb to TO.

3. (6A)

SS. Climb the rail diagonally up R to TO.4. Sea Saw (6B)

SS. Start on good hold on corner, throw to rail and climbto TO.

5. Seahorse (6C+)SS. Start on good holds, follow crimps and small holds onface to TO.

6. Seahorses in Flight (7A+)SS. Start as for Seahorse, climb to slot then dyno to TOon block.


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1. Aerial (6B+)Climb the arte.

2. Spongebob (7A+)Get up on good foothold, step across L and climb face.Dont use holds on arte.

3. Open Project.Get up on good foothold, climb face straight up themiddle to TO.

4. Sharky (6B+)Climb to big holds halfway up and go straight up to TO.

1. Blubber (6B+)SS. Start using big crack hold under small roof. Climb outand over bulge to TO. Dont use boulder on left for feet.

2. Open ProjectSS. Start as deep in under roof as possible and climb outto TO.

3. Craysh (7A/7A+)SS. Start under the roof on two incut pockets, a deeper oneon the right and a crimpier one on the left. Climb out and upto TO.


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1. Starsh (7A)SS. Start on crimpy dinnerplate hold quite far in, climbout to left and TO. Bad landing if you fall close to the TO,have spotters ready.

2. Sea Breeze (6C+)SS. Start on crimpy dinnerplate hold quite far in climbstraight out to TO.

3. Orca (6C)SS. Climb the crack to TO.

4. Foghorn (6C)SS. Start far back as possible on good obvious holds andclimb out to TO.

SEASIDE AREA

Facing the ocean from the Seaside Parking Area, the Pirate Bouldersare the obvious big boulders that you can see in the distance to yourleft. The Spelunker Boulder is the sharp pointed boulder sticking outin front of you. Head straight past it to nd the Redrum boulder andthen refer to the map above to locate the rest of the boulders inthis area.


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Pirate Boulders (1 of 2)

1. Smoo (6B+)SS. Start on L side of cave in smooth crack. Move to goodhold on roof lip and nd holds on face above roof to climbto TO.

2. Smee (6B+)SS. Start on R side of cave in smooth crack. Move to holdson lip of roof and nd holds on face above roof to climbto TO.

3. Musket (6A+)Dyno from big hold on corner straight up to TO.

4. Siren Song (6B+)SS. Start in crack under little roof, move up to good holdson face and climb straight up to TO.

5. Open ProjectSS. Start in crack under small roof, move up to slopers onface and climb to TO.

Pirate Boulders (2 of 2)

1. Sex on the Rocks (6A+)SS. Climb the crack to TO.

2. (6B)SS. Climb the face to TO.

3. Aye Aye Captain (6C)Dyno. Start on holds in small crack, dyno up to big crack andclimb over top to TO.


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Redrum Boulder

1. Eish? (6A+)SS. Start on gong ake looking dinnerplate hold that lookslike it will break. Use the backwall for your feet.Another One? (6B+)SS. Start on gong ake looking dinnerplate hold that lookslike it will break. Dont use the backwall for your feet. Use only

cracks and holds on roof for hands and feet until nal sectionafter roof ends, where you can use whatever.

2. Captain of the Barrel (6A+)SS. Start far back on underclings and climb out.

3. Make it a Double (6A+)SS. Start far back on underclings and climb out.

4. Staying Sober (6A+)SS. Start far back on underclings and climb out.

Squidguts Boulders (1 of 2)

1. Cleaning Act (6A+)Start with right hand on good hold, make big throw to arteand climb to TO

2. Squidguts (6C)SS. Start on small crimpy holds in vertical crack and climb upto slopey rail and straight up to TO.

3. Swing the Lead (5+)Climb straight up to TO

4. Pirates dont Hug (6B)Hug the arte and the crack all the way to TO.

5. Bow Wave (6C)SS. Climb the arte.


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Squidguts Boulders (2 of 2)

1. The Flying Dutchman (6B)Dyno from pinch in horizontal crack (left) and three-ngerpocket (right) straight up to lip. Be careful of big rock on your

left if you dont latch the dyno.2. Ghost Ship (6A+)

Traverse from good holds on right to approx middle of face,then do big move up to lip.

3. Walking the Plank (6A)Traverse from good holds on right all the way across face toend on boulder.

Roof Boulder

Open ProjectSS. Start on crimps, do big move to smaller crimps near lip andclimb over to TO.


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Worlds Edge Boulder

Running to You (6B+)SS. Start on fairly good holds, climb face to TO.

THE TREASURE CHEST

From the parking area follow the footpath to the right across thegrass and meet up with the dirt track. Follow the dirt track a shortdistance until seeing a small footpath coming up on the left. Takethis footpath and keep a look out on the oceans side for the rocksshown in the picture, where the Treasure Chest Area is.


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1. Zirbit (7A/7A+)SS. Start on good edges and crimps, do big move up toslopey rail and continue straight up to TO.

2. Shimmer (6B)Start straight below gully on top of boulder and climb upto gully.

1. Black Pearl (7B)SS. Start on crimpy rail, throw out up and left to incut hold onlip of roof. Look for holds on face slightly more to left to climbto TO.

2. Black Pearl Ext. (7B+)SS. Start on low crimp hold, up to crimpy rail, move further lefton crimpy rail, then out and up left to incut hold on lip of roof.Look for holds on face slightly more to left to climb to TO.


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Arg (6B+)SS. Start on big hold in crack, climb up and over bulgeonto slab to TO.

1. Old Hob Traverse (7A+)SS. Start on crimpy hold on face near corner, traverse theslopey rail to L and TO on the side.

2. Open Project.SS. Start as for 1, but stop halfway on rail and dyno straightto TO.

3. Open ProjectSS. Project. Climb the arte.

4. Old Hob Dyno (7A)Dyno from rail to TO.


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But risks must be taken because thegreatest hazard in life is to risk nothing.

The person who risks nothing, doesnothing, has nothing, is nothing. Hemay avoid suffering and sorrow, but hecannot learn, feel, change, grow or live.Chained by his servitude he is a slavewho has forfeited all freedom. Only aperson who risks is free. The pessimistcomplains about the wind; the optimistexpects it to change; and the realist

adjusts the sails. William Arthur Ward

Cape St Francis Guide

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