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CANINE AGGRESSION

10 situations to avoid if your dog is dominantly aggressive Identifying aggressive behavior

Bully or buddy - retraining aggressive dogs Dominance aggression in dogs

No more biting

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10 Situations to avoid if your dog is dominantly aggressive

1. If your dog barks, growls, or ignores you, try to shift its attention to an exercise or a task it knows well. If this doesn't help, walk away from the dog, or sequester it in another room, Banishment and withdrawal of attention are the most potent forms of correction because they remove a dog's ability to control the situation. Dominantly aggressive dogs are usually anxious and rely on interacting with and manipulating people to reassure themselves. Removing these options can help prevent misbehavior.

2. Don't abruptly reach for your dog or its collar or pull the dog's legs. First have the dog sit and stay. Then leash the dog or, preferably, use a Gentle Leader, Head collar (Premier Pet Products, Richmond, Va.), Head collars allow you to safely control a dog, When fitted correctly and used properly, the head collar allows you to gently but firmly close a dog's mouth if the dog becomes aggressive and keep it closed until the dog calms down. This keeps you safe and stops the dog from becoming more aggressive. If wearing a head collar makes your dog more aggressive, the dog is not ready for one. Instead, use a lasso-type leash to take the dog for walks. Never jerk a collar or leash or use it in a forceful manner.

3. Don't disturb your dog when it's resting, sleeping, or lying in front of a door or on the sofa or bed. Don't step over the dog. Always ask your dog to come to you and then to sit and stay. Don't shove the dog off a sofa or bed or push it away if it paws at you. Always tell your dog your intentions and then ask the dog to come and sit and stay for any attention.

4. If your dog scratches you or jumps on you or others, don't push it down. Instead, fold your arms, and turn away. If the dog then spontaneously sits, praise it.

5. If necessary, place a head collar on your dog for walks. Warn your neighbors that it isn't a muzzle but that your dog is undergoing behavior modification.

6. Don't play aggressively with your dog (slapping or wrestling with it). Play only with toys. Play tug of war with a soft sock toy on1y on the following conditions: Start the game with your dog sitting, and ask the dog to take the toy. The dog should take the toy only on command and relinquish it when requested. Don't fling the dog around the room on the toy. Finally, you must always win the game: The dog must sit and give you the toy. If you can't meet these conditions, don't play tug of war with your dog.

7. Don't let your dog sleep on the bed, especially if your dog reacts aggressively when disturbed there. You might even have the dog sleep outside the bedroom. This will minimize the potential for an inadvertent threat when you are sleepy and least able to anticipate problem behavior.

8. If your dog is aggressive when fed, feed it in a separate room with the door closed. If you have children, lock the door. If you allow table scraps, place them in the dog's dish. Don't allow the dog to beg at the table. The dog must sit and wait at all times before approaching its dish.

9. Never physically punish your dog. If it growls or lunges, softly tell it "no," and disrupt the situation. Use a word and tone that the dog associates with a less desirable behavior but not as a threat. People who have yelled at the dog a lot in the past may not be able to shout "no" without provoking the dog. Watch your dog to see what elicits the best response. You can disrupt a bad situation by asking the dog to come into another room and sit or by leaving the dog. If the dog is wearing a head collar, pull the collar shut gently and say "no," and then quickly lead the dog away from the inciting event. If it's necessary to remove the dog from the room or from a situation, wait for the dog to become calm, then practice a few sitting and staying exercises, and emphasize relaxation. If the dog is too reactive, avoid it until it's calm.

10. Warn your friends and neighbors that any aggressive dog is potentially dangerous. When people visit, leave your dog in another room. If you wish to introduce the dog, wait until the gathering has quieted down, and make sure the dog is wearing a head collar. If the dog mingles successfully (sits or rests quietly), praise it. If the dog cannot wear a head collar and walk around quietly, don't allow it to mingle.

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Identifying aggressive behavior

Aggressive behavior by dogs is not uncommon. In fact, aggression between dogs is another method of communicating and may be used to resolve competitive disputes over resources or to increase an animal's reproductive potential. It is important to realize that aggression is merely a description of the actions that a dog takes. The term aggression describes the behavior but does not give any information about the underlying motivation or causation for the behavior. There are multiple ways to classify aggression in dogs. Aggression can be subdivided based on intended victim, body postures during aggression, and other factors, including but not limited to resources the animal may want, estrous status of animals involved, and location of the aggressive encounter.

CLASSIFYING AGGRESSION

Aggression can be classified by differing methods. Ethologists (people who study animal behavior) often use the term agonistic to describe encounters between animals (usually of the same species) that involve conflict or contest. These confrontations can involve fighting, escape,

dominant and submissive gestures, and posturing. Another method of characterizing aggression is to identify the behavior as offensive or defensive. In companion animals various terms have been used to classify and delineate different types of aggression in dogs.

Dominance related Possessive

Protective and territorial Predatory

Fear induced Pain induced.

Parental Redirected

Play Intermale

Interfemale Pathophysiologic

Although other classification systems may include other terms, the above covers most aggressive encounters shown by dogs.

IDENTIFYING AGGRESSION

Inherent in labeling a behavior as "aggressive" is the need to know what an aggressive animal looks like. As mentioned earlier, aggressive behaviors are normal in dogs; however, when they result in human or animal injury, such behaviors are dangerous and objectionable. Human safety must always be a primary consideration when discussing aggression in dogs. Approximately 1 to 2 million bite wounds occur annually, and most people are bitten by animals they own or that are known to them. Ten percent of visits to emergency rooms are the result of bite wounds, and ten people (one-third of who are infants) die each year of animal bites. Eighty percent of bite wounds are inflicted by dogs. This information demonstrates the importance of making pet owners understand, recognize, avoid, and/or control aggressive behavior in dogs.

Body postures and facial expressions in dogs can often give an indication of an animal's intent in a social encounter. Often, by observing the behavior, potential aggression can be recognized and injury can therefore be averted. When a dog is faced with an "unwanted intrusion" (from the dog's perspective), it may send out "go away" signals that are designed to get the intruder to leave. Often these signals are arranged along a hierarchy, moving from subtle to intense. These signals are triggered by factors such as distance to the subject, speed of approach, size of the intruder, location of the encounter, and history of previous encounters. When discussing how dogs might react in these circumstances, we need to understand canine communication.

The first and often most subtle sign that a dog reacts to during an intrusion is eye contact. When two dogs meet, they establish eye contact. The more dominant dog maintains eye contact longer, while the more subordinate dog looks away. Prolonged eye contact can be considered a threat by both dominant and subordinate dogs. Dogs that are acting subordinate by looking away may feel threatened by continued eye contact (which humans often maintain) and bite out of fear. A dominant dog reacts to continued eye contact by holding the stare and escalating the threat. A dark iris or hair that hides the eyes can make eye contact difficult to ascertain in certain breeds of dogs.

If the intrusion continues, the dog may escalate the threat by exposing the teeth and snarling. The varying conformation of the canine muzzle (e.g., long pendulous lips or long hair or beards on the face) can inhibit one's ability to observe movement of the lips. The position of the ears can also indicate canine intent. A subordinate and/or fearful dog usually places the ears back, whereas a more dominant dog holds its ears more erect. Again, visualisation of these positions can be inhibited by conformation, coat, and cosmetic surgery.

When threatened, dogs also try to change their apparent size by piloerection (i.e., the standing up hair) along the neck and back. This reaction occurs in both dominant and fearful dogs. The position of the tail can change as well. Many, dogs hold the tail high above the horizontal with a flagging motion. The intent here is to get the intruder to go away. A dog that is submissive may not try to increase its size but instead tries to become smaller. It tucks its tail between its legs, lowers its head perhaps crouches down, and may even roll over onto its back or side. In this situation, the intent is to appease and hopefully decrease the aggressive threat. A dog that is fearful can exhibit a combination of previously described postures. For example, the dog may look at the intruder and have its hair up on the back, but with the tail lowered, the ears held flat against the head, and the body slightly crouched. In any of these postures the dog may be growling and/or barking.

If a dog maintains its body position, a stand off can occur and the confrontation can end. If the threat continues (or if the dog perceives that the threat is continuing), the dog has to make choices. It can escalate its threat, bluff, or back down. If a dog is "bluffing," it may shift its weight backward and increase the volume and pitch of its bark. The dog may also lower its body at the same time. Often, if the intruder then turns away, the dog may attack from behind. If the dog desires to stand its ground, it increases its threat; it leans its body forward, intensifies its growl, and makes more teeth visible. The ears may be flattened against the head and the head and neck may lower. With additional provocation the dog may lunge and attack.

Another factor that affects the dog's response to intrusion is the distance to the intruder. With wild mammals there is a concept of flight and critical distance reactions. Reaction to an intruder varies with distance. When an intruder reaches a "critical distance", the animal must decide whether to fight or flee. If flight is possible, many animals choose to escape; however, if flight is blocked or if the intruder gets too close too quickly, the animal may choose to fight. This is often what happens in aggressive encounters between people and dogs and between dogs. People move quickly toward a dog without assessing the animal's reaction until it is too late.

Another body posture of dogs that is not associated with aggressive behavior at all is the play bow, a play soliciting gesture that is often accompanied by barking and intense running behavior. As mentioned, breed characteristics can inhibit one's ability to see certain body postures and facial expressions of aggression. This increases the danger to people, especially those unfamiliar with canine behavior.

PROBLEM AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIORS

While there are many types of aggression in companion dogs, some occur more commonly than others do. Pet owners most frequently seek advice for dominance related aggression, intraspecies aggression, and fear aggression. Territorial aggression is seen in many dogs that are kept as pets, but often owners want this type of aggression and do not seek help, even when it results in injury to others. All pet owners must realize that aggressive behaviors are

dangerous and difficult to treat. Although the frequency of aggressive encounters may decrease, in many cases the behavior is not completely eliminated; owners must be careful to monitor their dog's behavior to prevent injury to people and other animals.

Dominance Aggression

Dominance aggression is commonly presented to animal behaviorists for treatment. It arises from the normal pack behavior of canines. When living in packs, ritualised displays and aggressive behaviors help maintain the social hierarchy. Dominance aggression occurs in circumstances where the dog is protecting access to critical resources (e.g., food, resting places, favored possessions, mates, or favored people in the home) or is resisting dominant gestures (e.g., standing over the dog, petting on top of the head and neck, forcing into subordinate positions such as sit or down, reprimanding the dog, pulling the dog by the collar, or approaching its resting places); it is usually directed toward family (or pack) members who reside with the dog. Dominance aggression often begins when the dog is between 18 months and 2 years of age. No accurate studies have been done to determine whether puppy testing can reliably identify those animals that will later exhibit dominant aggressive behaviors.

Dominance aggression presents real risks to family members who live with the dog. Often the family members feel that the behavior is unprovoked and do not understand why the dog is aggressive. However, with further questioning, a pattern of behavior usually emerges that indicates eliciting stimuli coinciding with the provocation criteria listed above. Pet owners need to be aware of the concept of dominance hierarchy and dominant postures and gestures that can provoke aggressive behavior. Many dogs are predictable as to when they will be aggressive and how aggressive they will be in any given situation, but others are not. Unpredictability complicates treatment and the ability to safely keep the dog in the home. Unpredictabilities in both the occurrence of the aggressive behavior and the intensity of the aggression create a dangerous situation.

Treatment in dominance aggression is designed to reverse the dominance hierarchy and gradually give the owner more control over the dog in benign situations. Gradually, if the dog allows, the owner learns to control the dog in other situations. Owners are counseled never to confront dominant aggressive dogs or to try to "win" aggressive encounters through force. Dogs who have been dominant in their home for some time become unwilling to relinquish that role and may go to great length to protect their place in the hierarchy. When the animal is confronted, this could result in severe owner injury.

The first step in treatment is to educate owners as to which of their behaviors may result in provoking an aggressive encounter with a dominant dog. Eye contact is considered confrontational, and activities such as reaching for the dog, grabbing the collar, moving the dog from a resting place, taking away food or other objects, and forcing the dog into a subordinate position are all possible provocations for a dominant dog to become aggressive. Second, all aggressive situations are identified and then avoided. Third, the owners are taught to attempt to reverse the dominance hierarchy by asking the dog to perform a task (e.g., sit or down) before the animal gets anything it wants such as food, attention, to go in or out, and to play.

A detailed examination of the problem may also reveal other areas that can be addressed through counterconditioning and desensitization of the dog to dominance challenges. Most importantly, the owners must realize how to provide safety for themselves and family members while working with the dog. At no time are owners encouraged to challenge the dog in an attempt

to wrest the power from the dog. Treatment of dominant aggressive dogs is best handled an applied or veterinary behaviorist.

Although it is not clear that dominant aggressive dogs can be identified in puppyhood, certain owner behaviors can help to decrease the likelihood of dominance aggression. From an early age, puppies can be taught that the owner is the leader. Frequent handling of the puppy and its food, possessions, and collar and moving it from resting places can help reinforce the owner as leader. Early intervention and training of puppies can also aid in development of dogs that are subordinate to their owners.

Fear Aggression

Fear-motivated aggression is common in dogs and frequently results in human injury. The fearful dog often learns that aggressive displays make the intruder retreat, which increases the likelihood that aggressive behavior will continue. Owners often reinforce the aggressive behavior unknowingly. When owners pet the dog, speak in a soothing tone of voice, or allow the dog to lean against them, the reassuring body contact and vocal intonation reward fearful behavior. Although the owner has good intentions, the desired effect of calming the dog does not occur. Fearful dogs are identified by their posture: ears back, tail tucked, and a horizontal, rather than vertical, retraction of the lips.

Dogs can fear a variety of things, often-encompassing people and locations. Fearful behaviors can be learned or can occur due to inadequate socialization or a traumatic experience. When dealing with fearful dogs, the first step is to identify all situations, people, and places eliciting the aggressive behavior. Repeated examination of the aggressive encounters is commonly necessary to identify the fearful stimulus. Examples of fearful situations include strangers or children approaching and reaching for the dog new places new objects, possible disciplinefor the dog, or challenges by the owner. Some dogs that appear to be behaving in a dominantly aggressive manner may actually be fearful. Clear descriptions of the body posture and reactions of the animal are needed to make a diagnosis.

Once a diagnosis of fear aggression has been established, a treatment program can begin. The cornerstones of treating fearful aggression are counterconditioning and desensitization. Counterconditioning teaches the dog to respond to the fearful situation differently than it did previously. Often this means teaching the dog to sit quietly and happily for a tasty food reward. Sitting and anticipating a food treat is incompatible with crouching and snarling at perceived fearful stimuli. Desensitization occurs by gradually exposing the animal to the fearful stimulus, albeit at levels too low to provoke a fearful response. The animal is then rewarded with a food reward for not exhibiting any anxious or aggressive behavior. Gradually the animal learns to tolerate the stimulus and no longer regards it as fear inducing.

Counterconditioning and desensitization are powerful tools, but they can be difficult to use correctly. The fearful stimulus must be accurately placed on a gradient from low to high and must be appropriately presented to the animal. It is important to present the stimulus in a manner that does not elicit fear and to then reward only calm, non-anxious, non-aggressive behavior. Inappropriate rewards can increase, not decrease, the fear response. For this reason, treatment of excessive fears and aggression is often best left to a behaviorist.

Preventing fears is easier than treating them. Adequate exposure of puppies to many different people and situations can help avoid many fearful behaviors. Teaching a dog to obey a

command associated with relaxed postures can be useful in potential anxiety-producing situations. It is also helpful to avoid rewarding fearful behavior.

Intraspecies Aggression

Aggression between dogs, especially dogs that live together can be a serious problem. Not only do the animals get injured, but owners are often injured themselves when attempting to intervene in fights Another term that has been used for this type of aggression is social status aggression. This term probably more adequately describes what may be occurring when two dogs in a household fight.

As mentioned earlier, dogs have a hierarchy in their group. Through the use of dominant and subordinate displays, animals maintain harmony among the group members. Social status in the group often determines which animal has access to what resources. The group lives by certain rules, which are usually known and understood .by all members; thus aggression and injury are minimized. Typically in a multiple dog household, one dog is dominant. When two dogs in the house vie for the dominant role, repeated fights can result if one animal does not back down.

Often, the fighting occurs not when the dogs are alone but rather in the presence of the owner. Why? One possibility is that the owner allows subordinate dogs to break the rules. For example, the dominant dog usually has access to critical resources (food, resting, places. mates, or favored possessions or people) before the others. In other words, life is not fair; however, owners would like to make it fair and often allocate resources like attention to lower ranking dogs at the expense of higher-ranking ones. When this occurs, the higher-ranking dog may become aggressive toward the lower ranking dog that "broke the rules." This usually results in the higher-ranking dog being punished by owners. Thus a scenario can be established in which the lower ranking dog learns that it can have access to resources it does not normally have when the owner is not around to "protect" it. If the breach in the hierarchy continues, the high-ranking dog may escalate its aggression to keep the lower ranking dog in its place.

One resolution to this problem is for the owner to recognize which dog is the higher-ranking one and to give it all the privileges that go with that status. Thus the higher-ranking dog is fed first, is petted first, is allowed in and out of the door first, and so forth. When the higher-ranking dog is getting attention from the owner, the other dogs must wait their turn. This may alleviate the problem in early cases of intraspecies aggression; however in other cases where the aggression is already severe or where the dog does not relinquish rank the animals need to be separated or put on leashes (with or without muzzles or head collars), and the intervention of an applied animal or veterinary behaviorist should be sought. Owners should not be encouraged to allow the dogs to "fight it out" because severe injury or death can result. In cases of severe and/or constant aggression between dogs, dogs may need to separated while owners are not home to avoid injury. Although rare, housemates have been known to kill one another.

TRAINING AIDS

Each of these aggressive behaviors can often be improved by the use of a head collar training system. The one that I use most commonly is the Gentle Leader/Promise Behavior Management System. The head collar system is designed to use species-specific methods of control that the dog understands. Pressure on the back of the head and neck and on the muzzle sends a signal to the dog as to who is the leader. This in turn stimulates both natural and instinctive reactions in the dog and allows the person holding the lead to be in control. Dogs also

feel more secure when they know who the leader is. Finally, when you control the head of a dog, you can control where the dog goes without choking it. Any age dog can wear a head collar, and this training method often allows owner control without a struggle. A head collar can be useful in dogs exhibiting dominance aggression because it aids in establishing the owner as leader without direct confrontation. In fearfully aggressive dogs, a head collar can also have a calming effect when the dog recognizes the leadership of the owner. Finally, when placed on both fighting dogs in a household, head collars can increase owner control and make both dogs subordinate to the owner.

CONCLUSION

Aggression in dogs can be a serious problem and can result in human and animal injury. All pet owners need to be responsible and to understand canine aggression and communication so that dogs and people can live together harmoniously.

REPRINTED FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES

FROM PEDIGREE BREEDER FORUM VOL 4, 1995

BY NEW HOPE ANIMAL HOSPITAL 501-631-0880 back to top

Bully or Buddy - retraining aggressive dogs

Re-training potential biters starts with acknowledging that your dog thinks like a dog, NOT a human. “Love me, love my dog,” but what if your dog is making it too difficult for your friends and family (and you) to get very close? Unfortunately, some dogs have such pushy personalities even their owners find it difficult to enjoy spending time with them. Why are some dogs bullies? Why do some dogs throw their weight around -dragging, jumping, biting, and walking rough-pawed over everyone -while others are wonder dogs that fetch slippers and never need leashes?

In some serious cases, "the leader of the pack" is the kind-hearted owner wearing the leash. In cases involving dominance aggression, human family members almost always are a huge contributing factor to their pet’s problems. Failure to establish leadership properly, because of misunderstanding and miscommunication, is a typical owner error. Because people tend to look at dogs as cute, hairy, unconditional people in dog’s clothing and because dogs cannot help but look at humans as big, unhairy canines, it is easy to see how dominance aggression problems begin.

Pet owners often encourage and reward their dogs' leading behaviors. When these dogs make it clear what they want or need, their owners will be certain they are doing the right thing for their pets. For many owners, few insurmountable problems occur because of this indulgence -besides having to jump through hoops for spoiled dogs. However, for other owners, their dogs' assertiveness frequently evolves into biting behavior.

A reported bite requires that the dog be evaluated and quarantined 10 days for rabies observation. Many dogs are brought to their veterinarians for evaluation but are allowed to be kept at home throughout quarantine provided the owners are certain they can prevent another aggressive incident during this time. When asked by the veterinarian if the bite is the first, most people hastily reply "yes." However, when questioned further, these same owners tell of a long history of previous aggression. Some people think if the bite didn't break the skin or cause an injury requiring medical treatment, the aggression didn’t count. In most cases, bites are not reported unless the resulting injury required medical attention. Not only is this dangerous for future victims, but the owner, who is in denial, misses the opportunity to seek help while the problem still is small and most easily treated.

The biggest concern of clients who have aggressive dogs is how the problem is going to end. Many fear that the animal will have to be put to "sleep." When owners cannot gain control of (and teach self control to) their biting dogs, liability resulting from their pet's behavior may force them to conclude that euthanasia is the only way out. Only in untreatable cases of abnormal aggression, this should become necessary.

Why do dogs bite?

Before considering how best to resolve a dominance aggression problem we need to understand how it started. Small or large, saber-toothed or toothless, all dogs are capable of biting. Regardless of breed, size or birth order, and with no trace of mental deviation or history of abuse, perfectly normal family dogs can and often do sink their choppers into more than just their chow. Whether they involve ankle biting, mouthing, nibbling, snapping, nipping, maiming or pinching, bites do range in severity. Biting is normal canine behavior, but not all dogs that bite are expressing their "inner Cujo" or experiencing "brain swelling" driving them "mad" and causing them to "turn."

While the media insists on naming certain breeds "bloodthirsty killers", the truth is any and every dog can bite. Some dogs do have a greater potential to bite than others do, but this is not specific to anyone breed. What causes one dog to be more aggressive than another does? No matter how similar in appearance, each dog is a unique individual. Dogs are born with hereditary traits that are shaped and influenced by experience and environment. This especially is true during the first 22 weeks of life, or during the "imprint period", but also during adult onset/hormonal maturation and beyond.

Life experiences continually affect a dog's perception of its environment and social relationships. Flighty or fearful dogs, abused dogs, and dogs with inadequate social experience may bite when threatened or stressed. This sort of aggression is not related to dominance but to defensive behavior. Maternal, territorial, intermale, interfemale and predatory aggression are other normal aspects of canine behavior that may include dominant or defensive undertones, but they also are influenced by hormone levels or inherent drives to protect and survive.

Aggression is a symptom, and its sources are many. Every time a normal dog bites, it does so because it feels it is the right thing to do. Every action is meaningful to the dog.

Aggression is a loud statement-staking claim to something that the dog feels justified in demanding. When self-defense related, the dog is claiming its right to feel safe. Whether territorial, maternal, or possession related, the dog is claiming and defending something from being taken or accessed by others. When dominant or predatory, the dog is taking what it wants based on "might makes right" natural laws of the fittest.

A traumatic experience at any age can result in a dog feeling suspicion and distrust. Painful experience, or even anticipation of it, can result in defensive behavior that may include aggression. This self-defense behavior frequently is termed "fear biting.” When a dog truly is acting aggressively from fear, it is because for either physical or emotional reasons, flight is not an option. Most true fear-biters actually would rather not bite; they would like to extract themselves from a threatening situation but cannot. When cornered and flight no longer is a self-defense option, dogs frequently react with aggression. Unfortunately, many of the "corners" dogs find themselves in, are not recognized as such by their owners.

Unwitting owners who do not understand their pet’s emotions, who try to help inhibited puppies or dogs through a seemingly phobic aversion to someone or something new by pushing them "through their fear", push some dogs into self-defense aggression. The result frequently is the first of many bites. In cases in which aggression is abnormal, the dog is unable to control itself from biting that it is erratic and unpredictable, in which the behavior truly is inconsistent and unprovoked, is abnormal. Many seemingly abnormal dogs actually are just hard to read; given a closer look, many supposedly "spontaneously raging" dogs actually are terribly dominant but normal. This doesn't make their behavior any easier to live with, however!

Excluding cases of abnormal aggression in which a health or mental abnormality prevents the dog from controlling its own behavior, aggression always involves provocation. The situation or stressor that precedes an aggressive incident may be subtle and in many cases difficult to recognize. The fact that a dog reacts to something non-threatening as provoking indicates poor socialization, training or breeding. The opportunity arising for a dog to bite is the result of irresponsible ownership.

HUMANS SHARE THE BLAME

If all dogs are capable of biting, why do we love our dogs so much and risk harm sharing our homes with them? Because we forgive dogs for biting and because we know they always have perfectly good canine reasons for biting when they do. And, because we know in our heart of dog-loving hearts, there usually is human error to blame when a dog bite does occur.

Dominance is anything but "wrong" behavior from a canine perspective, yet it results in many bites and causes an inordinate number of dogs to be given away or euthanized because of their having been so capable of being leaders.

Dogs communicate their dominant intentions using physical signals or body language. These include facial gestures such as snarling and direct eye contact, erect and forward ears, head and tail held high and stiff body posture. Other physical signals include pawing, jumping, mounting, mouthing, and body blocking and pushing or bumping. Dogs will assert themselves over other dogs as well as humans using these tools. Most aggressive incidents that occur involving a dog are the result of some human error somewhere in the dog's recent or past history. Much of the time the problem involves the dog's social position within the family.

When impressed by a more capable leader, dogs usually politely defer, surrendering privileges of dominance graciously. Submissive body postures and facial gestures, as well as the surrender of choice sleeping areas, food and possessions, all show the dog's respect for "higher-ups" and acceptance of lower rank in the social hierarchy. Dogs usually are willing followers provided they live with competent leaders. An established dominance hierarchy among human and other canine family members reduces the likelihood of fighting for food, water, shelter and breeding rights within the group.

Dominant dogs, however, test for rank within their social system. Raised with humans, these dogs do not seem to differentiate between canine and human family members; it is one big (or very small) "pack." A dominant individual in a pack is guaranteed access to sustenance and shelter without having to fight for them, but dominant dogs will bite to defend or maintain their earned "top-dog" status once they have achieved it.

In addition to vying for social rank within the family, dominance issues may surface when dogs react to certain normal displays of affection from their owners. Hugging, petting on the head or shoulders, kissing and direct eye contact all could be interpreted by a dominant dog as a challenge. Dogs convinced they hold higher ranking status than their owners may attempt to "discipline" the "insubordinates" if they fail to behave in properly subordinate ways. Owners who touch their dominant dog when it is not in the mood to be disturbed, or who touch the dog's food, toys, bones or bed, may be bitten by the "boss" for crossing the invisible lines that have been drawn. While a second dog in the home might recognize and respect these unspoken boundaries established by the more dominant pet, very few humans recognize or understand them. And if owners did allow their dogs to establish the rules of the roost, more bites would be likely to occur.

OTHER FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE AGGRESSION

Not only do improper social status and misinterpretation of human contact breed aggression, but also there are other factors that contribute to dogs propensity to bite. Dogs frustrated repeatedly by confinement may develop cumulative aggression that is released seemingly "out of the blue" in a disproportionate "floodgates-opening" manner on an unlucky recipient. If a dog is frustrated by restraint and then agitated, its aggression levels build. In these cases when pent-up aggression is released, the bite victim may have done nothing other than be near an agitated dog at an unfortunate moment. When someone enters the frustrated dog's space, he or she may be bitten severely as a result of its cumulative aggression levels. This is why dogs

on chains or behind fences may behave more aggressively than when liberated. However, liberation is not suggested if a dog has been displaying aggression of any kind.

Any fast-moving object or individual potentially triggers a dog's predatory (hunting) mechanism. When a dog is chasing a bailor rounding up sheep, the genetic predatory mechanisms of its ancestors (which hopefully have been modified by selective breeding) are what initiate the behavior. Dogs that are dominant with strong chase/bite mechanisms may terrorize running children, joggers, bicyclists, small animals and other dogs and may bite hard when they catch their "prey." If the prey is a passing car, the dog may encounter an early demise because of its uncontrolled impulses.

Territoriality is another factor contributing to a bullying dog's chase/bite behavior. A history of success usually is behind every chasing/biting dog. Every car it barked at, leaves; every passer-by it threatens, retreats. Even when the retreat is coincidental, having nothing to do with the dog's aggressive display, in the dog's mind its own behavior caused the agitation to leave. When dogs experience success, their behavior is reinforced - they will continue to repeat it with more and more confidence and determination. Chasing that at first was accompanied by half-hearted barking quickly becomes fierce barking. Dogs that feel territorial and display threatening behavior toward those who approach or pass by are very likely to bite. They must not be allowed outside without adult supervision or their perception of themselves as king or queen of their own hill will be reinforced

GENTLY BUT FIRMLY RECLAIM YOUR LEADERSHIP

Once owners understand all the possible reasons behind dog aggression, it is time to take action. Dogs with undiagnosed or untreated health problems may behave aggressively in reaction to discomfort, and abnormal aggressive responses are sometimes a symptom of hormonal imbalances, seizure disorders and other medical conditions. The first step in treating any aggression problem is to schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to rule out or begin treatment for any contributing medical conditions. Your veterinarian may be able to refer you to a behaviorist who can help you with re-education of both your dog and family.

After ruling out any medical conditions as the cause of aggression, the next step in treatment is to take control of the dog immediately to prevent another incident. Many people remove biting dogs before allowing guests to enter their homes. With this, the problem is not treated - it is avoided. A dominant, territorial dog that is frustrated behind a door or in a cage is not learning to be subordinately resigned to the owner's right to invite anyone he or she pleases into the home. Instead the spring is coiling tighter, with aggression levels building. Because a dog that has come to this level of aggressiveness clearly perceives itself and not the human as highest in rank, guests really might be unsafe. Restraining the dog on a leash or removing it from the scene does not re-train them, but it will at least protect guests until the owner has figured out how to overthrow the canine bully.

To perform the necessary coup, the owners must first arm themselves with knowledge. The members of the family must be perceived as more capable leaders than the dog. Before a dominant dog will yield to a new regime, it will test it. It is not good to use the "I'm a dog, you're a dog" method of dominance. Owners frequently are bitten when they try to show their dogs they are boss using confrontational methods. The "alpha dog" approach of rolling, growling, scruffing and in other ways trying to imitate the big wolf often leaves small, less physical family members in a bad spot. If might makes right, where does that leave them?

Possibly the more indirect but broad-spectrum method is better for families too gently but firmly reclaim their homes from their dogs. The first step is education for the human family members. Before changing physical behavior, the dog's attitude must be changed. How can someone infiltrate and change a mind he or she doesn't really understand? By gaining knowledge of dog behavior in general, one is more able to understand a given individual. The best way to learn about dogs is from people who have made the study of canine behavior their life's work. Whether through reading books or meeting with an expert, seek answers. Research the facts about the animal you live with and you will be able to recognize some of the fiction that set the stage for problem behavior. Dogs think and learn differently from humans. It is every dog owner's responsibility to understand the life that depends on them and to guide its behavior using that understanding.

As owners become knowledgeable about dogs, they begin to recognize how many problems are created when their pets are not provided with consistent, patient leadership. Dogs that are allowed to ask to go outside may become demanding. Dogs that go through open doors first, before their people, are allowed to "lead the pack". Dogs that are given unconditional affection are taught to be obnoxious and fawning, often jumping and mouthing anyone whom attempts to touch them. Dogs that are hand fed become expectant that food will be surrendered; in nature, only subordinate dogs surrender their food, except in the case of weaning puppies. Dogs that are scolded often repeat mischievous behaviors, having learned a new way to draw immediate owner attention. Many dogs do not mind if the attention is negative provided it is predictable and effectively puts the dog back in the spotlight. Any dog owner who stops to count how many times in a given day he or she says "no" to an attention- demanding dog must recognize it isn't working.

What does work is to take over. At first do this indirectly to avoid being bitten. Having door-rushing dogs on a leash and desensitized with the help of someone to ring the doorbell may help remind them whose house it really is. Dogs touched only while they are sitting or lying down learn that more socially appropriate, passive behavior is rewarded. Feeding only out of the dog's own bowl following a series of obeyed commands helps the dog look at food as an earned reward from a generous higher-up. Learning how to modify undesirable behaviors rather than emotionally reacting to them helps dogs learn how to be self-controlled.

When dogs are biting or behaving aggressively, they need immediate intervention. A qualified trainer or behaviorist is needed to give guidance and hands-on assistance. The appropriate treatment for aggression never involves counter aggression. Instead, a process known as systematic desensitization is used. Once basic changes have been made in the dog's daily life to

help the family indirectly establish leadership, the dog is exposed gradually to the various releasers for its aggressive behavior. This is only done with the dog properly controlled so a bite cannot occur during the re-training. The dog is not allowed to feel successful with aggressive behaviors; no one reacts personally to the aggression. The behavior simply fails, over and over. Gradually increased tolerance and sub ordinance are observed, but never throughout the process is the dog threatened or abused. Cruel treatment only justifies continued aggressiveness from the dog.

During the re-training of an aggressive dog, it is very difficult to prevent backsliding; so many opportunities present themselves in which a dog might take matters into its own teeth. Difficult as it may seem, it is important the dog is controlled at all times during the re-training. This may require the constant use of a leash and even a humane cloth muzzle when the dog is out in public. One bite would be a death sentence, and it is not worth the risk.

Even after months have passed and many changes have been implemented, it is important for owners of dominant, aggressive dogs to maintain their new leadership skills. This actually will apply for the rest of the rehabilitated dog's life; it is re-trained, but not a different animal. Under those new and improve manners lurks potential -potential to lead if no one else seems to be doing a good enough job!

CONSEQUENCES FOR THE HUMAN AND CANINE COMMUNITY

As a result of owners not taking on the responsibility of curtailing their dogs' aggressive behavior, many breeds are becoming targets of breed-specific legislation. This unfortunate form of canine racism impels communities to attempt to limit bite incidents by banning or placing strict limitations on certain breeds. There is a very real risk that the privilege of owning certain breeds could be harmed if biting dogs are allowed to represent their breeds. It is important not to represent dog ownership irresponsibly. The need to protect their dogs from being thought of as dangerous or vicious causes many people do rationalize and justify the dogs' behavior even when it is very inappropriate or unsafe. Many owners of biting dogs look as briefly as possible at the incident while deftly sweeping it under a cover of denial. By denying there is any real aggression problem, owners of biting dogs facilitate future incidents and miss opportunities to treat the problem. Fear of euthanasia causes many people to choose not to look too deeply at their dogs' aggressive behavior. Most are afraid there may be some underlying temperament abnormality that, if discovered and admitted to, will lead to the death of their beloved pets.

Many biting dogs are capable of being safe with humans. The big problem is "once bitten, twice shy." Some states have strict liability laws placing responsibility on owners to prevent bites from occurring; once a bite is reported, both dog and owner are in trouble. A second bite incident, from a dog whose owner is aware of the dog's propensity to be aggressive, would be considered the owner's fault. In communities where laws have been passed to protect people from being victimized by irresponsible owners and dangerous pets, a dog's biting days are numbered.

This is only fair; no one wants themselves or their children to be bitten, and all people in a community should be able to feel safe from harm inflicted by irresponsible neighbors or their pets. The best solution is prevention through education for pets, their owners and the people who share communities with companion animals. It is up to humans to take a stronger position of responsibility in breeding, educating, controlling and protecting their dogs.

REPRINTED FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES FROM DOG WORLD MAGAZINE DEC 1997

BY NEW HOPE ANIMAL HOSPITAL 501-631-0880

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DOMINANCE AGGRESSION IN DOGS

Domestic dogs are descendants of a common wolf-like ancestor. Many physical and behavioral similarities persist between dogs and modern wolves. The wolf pack is an well-organized society of individuals that cooperate in hunting for food, defending their territory and rearing the young. A hierarchy of individuals is formed as pack members challenge each other for positions of relative authority. This social order is determined by each individual motivation to assert itself at certain moments or in certain situations. Pack members test each other’s ability and determination at a very young age, beginning in the form of play between littermates.

Individuals within a group challenge each other to determine their relative social rank. Dominance is a relative term, implying that an animal is dominant over another more submissive individual. There are advantages to being dominant, but there are risks as well. For example, dominant animals have more responsibility and risks than others do in coordinating the hunt. They are also continually challenged by subordinates seeking to oust them. Conflicts between significant rivals may result in serious injury.

Dogs probably perceive human families as the equivalent of their ancestral pack. This is valuable, for example, in applying a dog pack loyalty and territorial nature to the defense of our families and homes; however, it can cause problems when a dog assumes an inappropriate position of leadership in the human family. A dominant dog can become aggressive toward family members that, intentionally or not, challenge its position. As much as we love our dogs, we must remember that they are dogs not human beings.

Your kindness and tolerance may be perceived by a socially ambitious dog as a sign of weakness and therefore, a chance to promote its own social rank. This does not mean that you should remain cold and stern, but rather you should be aware of how you interact with your dog. Your actions affect your dog’s reaction and your response to your dogs’ behavior determines whether that behavior will be repeated.

Mounting

One of the ways that a dog asserts its dominance is to assume a physically superior position over a subordinate. The dog attempts to become top dog. Mounting is among the more obvious dominant positions. The front paws clasp (or the dog may stand over) another dog, arching its back, accompanied by rhythmic pelvic thrusts of variable intensity. Some owners find this humorous. By tolerating it, they encourage it. The dog views this as confirmation of its dominant status.

Many owners mistake mounting for sexual behaviour. Perhaps the best way to distinguish between mounting motivated by social dominance and mounting motivated by reproductive drive is to consider the circumstances. Is the mounting dog sexually intact (not neutered)? Is it a mature male or female? Is it a puppy? Is the dog mounting a human being or another dog? If it is a dog, is she a female in heat?

Unless the animal being mounted is a female in heat, the mounting is probably a display of dominance. Because dogs interact with people as they would with other dogs, mounting can be directed toward people and often has the same significance. If your dog mounts an object (for example, a pillow) I the underlying motivation most likely is redirected sexual behaviour.

Signs of Dominance

Puppies in a litter often show mounting behaviour. As they wrestle and roll during play, puppies learn which among them is strongest. By playing tug of war with a variety of objects, for example, pups test each other's stamina and determination. By the time they are weaned and adopted by human families, puppies have already practiced the basic skills necessary to manipulate the beings around them to their own advantage. Its owners may perceive a puppy that jumps up in greeting or during play as enthusiastic and affectionate. The puppy, however, may be testing your willingness to submit to its expressions of dominance.

Other behaviour can also indicate dominance. For example, you may think that placing a paw in your lap is a friendly gesture. Indeed, a paw in your lap may be a submissive dog's attempt to attract attention or seek reassurance. However, your tolerance of this may encourage a dominant puppy or adult dog to place both paws in your lap and stand over you in a truly challenging and threatening position.

Another subtle way in which dogs display dominance is by reluctance to assume physical positions of submission. This is seen as hesitation to obey your command to sit and is most obvious as resistance to the down command. A dog may lock its elbows to avoid contact with the ground, squirm away from you, and even pull at the leash with its mouth, all to challenge your dominance. Yawning or grooming in apparently inappropriate circumstances often indicates that the dog is undecided on submitting or asserting itself. These should be interpreted as a sign of anxiety, and you should assert your dominance firmly but gently.

Regaining Control

Owners must be aware of the hidden meaning of subtle dominant behavior, even in the form of play, in dogs of any age. Games that encourage excited and uncontrolled behavior often lead to objectionable agitation in juvenile and adult dogs, increasing the chances of an aggressive outburst. Tug of war, chasing, wrestling and any interaction that teaches a dog any form of aggression toward people should be avoided. It is unacceptable to teach a pet to behave aggressively toward people or to encourage it to think this is fun.

Alternative activities should include controlled play that applies obedience skills. The game of retrieving objects (fetch), for example, is a good opportunity to assert your dominance and to command obedience. Give the command to come as the dog returns to you, then sit and stay after the dog returns to you. To teach it to release the object on command, gently pry the object from its mouth and say drop it or let go.

From an early age, dogs should be taught to assume submissive positions in the presence of any human being. Your dog should learn to greet you, any visitor to your home, or acquaintances you may meet during walks by assuming a calm and controlled sit and stay position. To a dog, your tolerance of pawing, jumping up, and sitting on or above the same physical plane as you indicates your surrender to a subordinate role. If your dog is showing signs of dominance behavior toward you, reinforce submissive positions whenever possible throughout the day.

The dog should sit for its food or a treat, to have its leash put on or taken off, to go in or out of the house, and to greet anyone at the door. It is best if your dog does not sit or lie on the furniture with you, but should instead remain at your feet.

Do not allow your dog to sleep in bed with you, at least until you regain control. Should you decide to permit this again (some owners find this hard to give up!), it must be on your terms. Teach your dog to jump on or off the bed on command, assuming a sit/stay position at your feet before doing so.

Dogs use eye contact to assess each other's temperament and motivation before actual physical contact. The higher-ranking dog makes eye contact sooner and holds it longer. The subordinate is slower to meet the other's gaze and looks away more readily, avoiding direct eye contact. This interaction is usually very quick but very informative. If direct eye contact becomes a staring match, signaling that neither dog relinquishes social rank, the challenge may instigate a fight for dominance.

A dominantly aggressive dog may perceive prolonged eye contact with a person as a direct threat, triggering aggressive warnings (lip curling or growling is the most obvious) and possibly an attack. The best way to guarantee an attack is to unwisely persist in your challenge. If this happens to you, avert your gaze just to the dog's side and then slowly back away.

Dominant dogs frequently resent being petted, or brushed on the top of their head, neck and over the length of their back. This closely mimics another subtle form of asserting dominance by placement of a dog's head or paw over the neck or back of another dog. This is a clear challenge to a dog that is strongly motivated to achieve dominant rank or to one that has already attained it. In this situation, there may be little or no warning of an impending bite.

If the dog has a history of biting or has already attained an inappropriately superior social position, proceed with retraining gently and firmly, but cautiously. During the early stages of working with a very dominant dog, avoid prolonged eye contact because this may be seen as an offense. Avoid direct confrontation if your dog seems at all aggressive. It is not worth risking your injury by directly challenging an assertive dog. Instead, motivate the dog to accept submissive postures with food or during acceptable forms of play. Send your dog a subtle message of your leadership by preceding it into your home or into a room.

If your dog resists you, enlist the help of another family member or friend. "Outnumbering" your dog with more than one person reinforces your dominant position. Use your dog's desire for

social acceptance and attention to your advantage. Make your dog earn your attention by obeying your commands.

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NO MORE BITING

BY ARDEN MOORE

Knock! Knock! Dr. John Wright's knuckles rapped on the front door of the bungalow. A threatening, throaty growl of a reply came from inside the home: Grrrr ...grrl. Wright, Ph.D., a certified animal behaviorist from Macon, Ga., knew he had arrived at the right address. The mailbox indicated the Parleys but inside, a snarling young German Shepherd Dog named King reigned. As the door slowly opened, Dr. Wright came face to face with a barking dog delivering a challenging stare while three family members stood nervously. Their wrists and ankles brandished bite wounds, new and old.

"Come on in before King gets you," a soft, shaky voice said. Dr. Wright stepped in slowly and knelt down. He did his best to avoid direct eye contact with the approaching, hackles-raised dog. Despite his years of improving behavior in dogs and cats, he trembled slightly with fear. He positioned his briefcase against his legs and smiled at the Parleys to show King that he meant no harm. Trying not to look the dog in the eye and spark a challenge, he asked a family member to slowly try to put a leash on King. Fortunately, King allowed it and backed away.

Under Dr. Wright's close supervision and guidance and four months of patiently taking a praise-the-good, ignore-the-bad behavior approach with King, the Parleys regained control of their home. King relinquished his ruler role and toned down his temper. The biting stopped. "Peace was restored, and once again the family could feel comfortable enough to have friends visit," Dr. Wright said. "King was one of the most overly assertive dogs I've dealt with. Any quick movement or action that he didn't like, he responded by biting family members."

His story appears in Dr. Wright's new, behavior book, The Dog Who Would Be King (Rodale, 1999). Any dog can bite anyone at any time. Most dogs bite people they know, usually owners, family members or friends. The chances of a dog biting you this year are one in 50, with one in five cases requiring medical attention. The chances of a fatal dog attack on a child is seven in 10, compared to one in 177 for a burglar entering your house, according to the Humane Society of the United States and the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Dogs hate to bite. It takes too much energy. Often they bite out of fear when they feel threatened or challenged. Confident dogs need only to cast menacing looks. "But the main cause of canine aggression is the failure of the owners to assume the leadership role in the human-canine pack," said Myrna Milani, DVM, a veterinarian, certified animal behaviorist and author of DogSmart (Contemporary Books, 1997) in Charlestown, N .H. "Dogs need stable pack structures to feel secure. Even the tiniest, wimpiest little dog will assume the leadership role in the pack if it perceives that the owners won't."

In all dog households, the owner must rule by leadership, not dominance. Mary Jo Miller of Plainfield, N.H., found out the hard way. Her dog, Linc, an 85-pound German Shepherd Dog, pinned workmen to walls with his teeth-baring muzzle positioned next to their necks. Once when Miller was inside the living room of an elderly neighbor waiting for the neighbor's return, Linc sprawled on the floor in front of her. When the man returned and gave a gruff but friendly greeting, Linc stood up, bared his fangs and snapped.

Frantic, Miller phoned Dr. Milani. "I learned that my dog's biggest problem was me and my inconsistency in his training," Miller said. "I had been giving Linc signals that he had to step in, be in charge and protect me. I needed to prove to Linc that I am capable of being the leader." Working with Dr. Milani, Miller discovered Linc was a whiz at reading her verbal and nonverbal cues. She is learning how to avoid confrontations by stepping in and initiating actions as a leader and not reacting to situations. "The other day a man in a big truck arrived," Miller said. "I put Linc on a gentle nose lead and I said, 'Good dog. There is no threat here.' It's a long process, but Linc is displaying a trust in knowing that I'm now in charge."

Experts urge owners not to wait until the second or third bite before seeking professional help. Success hinges on identifying the reason for aggressive behavior -not simply addressing the symptoms, Dr. Milani and Dr. Wright said.

Sometimes the cause is physical; your dog may be injured or aching from arthritis or another physical condition. Unaware of the dog's pain, you touch the sore spot. Sometimes the cause is territorial; your dog feels overly possessive toward its food bowl or favorite chew toy. It also could be emotional; your dog may view itself as protector of the household and feel its duty is to defend the family against perceived intruders, including delivery persons and guests.

In extreme cases of aggression, a dog may need tranquilizers or antidepressants. Use these prescriptions in conjunction with behavioral modifications and obedience training, Dr. Wright and Dr. Milani recommend.

"These drugs can take four to six weeks to take effect," Milani said. "They merely treat symptoms. They are certainly not quick fixes." "The goal should also be to gradually wean them off the medications," Dr. Wright said. Reinforce obedience daily. Practice commands such as "Sit," "Stay" and "Come." And be consistent.

"An untrained dog is like a 3-year-old with a gun -you never know when it will go off," Dr. Milani said. "The other advice I tell people is to not make excuses for negative behaviors or tell yourself that the pup will outgrow it. Little problems have a way of growing into big ones very quickly."

When an owner has exhausted all efforts and the dog continues to bite, the most humane action is euthanasia -not surrendering it to an animal shelter where it will spend the rest of its life pacing inside a cage, said Sue Stemberg, a dog trainer in Accord, N.Y., who works with animals at shelters nationwide.

"If a dog continues to bite people and can't stay in its home, making it spend the rest of its life on a concrete floor with barking dogs to its left and right to me is inhumane," she

said. "A dog lives in the moment. It can't reason that next month, if it behaves, someone will adopt it."

Dr. Wright emphasized that aggressive behavior may be linked to one cause or a combination of several. The behavior may be related to poor breeding, a lack of obedience training, a physical problem (from an achy tooth to brain damage) or an unpleasant event from its past. He urged owners to work with an experienced veterinarian or animal behaviorist to discover the tactics that may work best for that particular dog.

"One dog's fear aggression may be due to a temperamental trait. Another dog may have been hit over the head by someone wearing sunglasses in the past and now is fearful of all sunglass wearers," said Dr. Wright. "Each case needs to be diagnosed separately."

Arden Moore is a free-lance writer in lrvine, California. For information about dog behavior, visit DOG FANGY online at www.animalnetwork.com/dogs

READ YOUR DOG'S BODY LANGUAGE

These signs indicate a dog is changing from nice to nasty, said dog trainers Sue Sternberg, in Accord, N.Y. and Pat Hastings, in Aloha, Ore.

· Tenses muscles.

· Engages in stare downs, looking straight ahead or from the sides of the eyes.

· Raises hair on the back.

· Leans forward on tiptoes to appear larger, stronger to show dominance.

· Lowers ears and body, emitting a high-pitched bark indicating fear. The dog is about to bite and flee.

· Raises tail and holds it still or moves it slowly from side to side.

· Raises upper lip to expose teeth.

· Wrinkles nose.

· Releases a low growl, as if to say, "I'm thinking about biting, back away," or "That's my food bowl."

If a dog displays any of these signs, experts advise you to avoid direct eye contact (which can be perceived as a challenge) and to slowly back away. Never turn and run because that can trigger the prey drive in an aggressive dog.

Animal behaviorists John C. Wright, Ph.D., and Myrna Milani, DVM, offer these suggestions to lessen the chances of your dog unleashing an aggressive outburst or attack:

� Establish yourself as leader in the household by controlling when a dog eats, establishing play times with its favorite toys, and incorporating obedience training commands like "Sit, " "Stay" or "Come" into the daily routine.

Ø Recognize pedigrees bred for protection or fighting are more prone to aggression. Toy, Sporting and Herding breeds tend to be less aggressive.

Ø Have your dog spayed or neutered. Surgeries can be performed on puppies as young as 6 weeks. Six out of 10 dogs that bite are not neutered, according to the Humane Society of the United States based in Washington, D.C.

Ø Never smack your dog with your hand. Your dog will become confused as to whether your hand is a friend or foe. In fact, never hit your dog at all. It is inhumane and also could result in a bite.

Ø Never engage in rough play that permits your dog to mouth your hand. It encourages biting.

Ø When your dog starts to growl or snap, make an appointment with your veterinarian for a complete physical exam. The behavior may be linked to a painful medical condition, such as a broken tooth, arthritis or cancer.

Ø Enroll your puppy in a socialization class, ideally between the ages of 8 weeks and 14 weeks. Expose it to different people, animals, noises and smells so it can deal with new experiences.

Ø When your dog shows signs of aggressiveness, distract it with a fun activity such as playing with a ball or going for a walk. A dog can't be mad and happy simultaneously.

Ø Never let your dog roam off-Ieash and unsupervised.

Ø Reward quiet, submissive and positive behavior with praise or food treats. Ignore pestering behavior. The dog will learn the payoffs are better for good behavior.

Ø Control when your dog receives a chew toy and put it away after playtime. Your dog will learn that you are in charge of toys.

Ø Dictate when the dog goes outside, where it will sleep and when it eats. Dogs like to know their place in the pack. Don't allow a dog to sleep on your pillow (a sign of dominance) or be fed each time it begs for food (a sign that you are surrendering your leadership role).

DO YOU HAVE AN AGGRESSIVE DOG?

Here's a checklist from Lany Lachman, Psy.D., a clinical psychologist, animal behavior consultant, and author of Dogs on the Couch (Overlook Press, 1999) in Pacific Heights, Calif.

� Has your dog ever attacked another dog or a person without being provoked?

ü When your dog sees another dog, does it immediately growl, snarl or lunge on its leash?

ü Has your dog ever bitten anyone in your family?

ü Does your dog growl and snap if you attempt to remove its bone, pet it while it's eating or while awakening from a nap?

ü Does your dog growl or attempt to bite you when you remove it from the couch or chair?

ü Does your dog attack its littermate?

ü Does your dog growl at its veterinarian or groomer?

Answering yes to any of these questions indicates aggressive behavior in your dog. Seek immediate help from a veterinarian, animal behaviorist or professional dog trainer experienced in successfully treating aggressive dogs

REPRINTED FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES FROM DOG FANCY MAGAZINE MAY 2000