Camino de Santiagoe27605eebf460ec407cc-b91cc5f003971c661d0b6df777d1e80f.r95.c…Camino de Santiago...

Camino de Santiago Trekking this week: Kristin and Kathy McDermott

Day 1 Our flights to London landed within minutes of each other and with our mother daughter radar, we managed to find each other in Heathrow Airport! We also met a family from All Saints! They were off to Spain and France to vacation with family! Small world! Kristin and I began backpacking at 6:30 am on Monday and completed 29.4km. it was a lot of climbing, switchbacks but the Playa Arena beach greeted us at the end. Spirits were high especially after soaking our feet in the Pacific Ocean. We met only a few pilgrims on our trail. The locals are very helpful! We passed by many churches but only one was open. The caretaker invited us in for water, the bano (bathroom) and to stamp out Pilgrim passports. We arrived in the middle of siesta time, so no groceries or food were available. We snacked on food

we stored in our backpacks until a grocery store opened.


Day 2 We met an early roadblock on our 17.5km hike to Castro‐Uridales. The path was blocked by feeding goats. Kristin braved the herd when the leader cut her off. For a bit, there was a standoff. Eventually, the goat got bored and moved on. We took that opportunity to charge forth. We again passed many churches, a castle, and beaches. The views were amazing! We managed to get spots in a16 bed albergue. We walked into town for a meal at a bar. Food seems scarce!


Day 3 Fourth of July! No fireworks! Just a 5:45am fire alarm in our building. It was a false alarm but served as a wake‐up alarm for most. It was an early day on the trail and a rest day. We hiked 11km and arrived at the albergue at 12:30am. 14 beds, two toilets, and one shower. We had the place to ourselves... Did laundry, napped, and greeted other pilgrims as they arrived. Again, we had dinner at the bar with another Pilgrim. He asked us questions about our president and our Catholic faith. For me, it was a needed day of rest physically. No blisters but sore feet.


Day 4 Made it to Laredo Spain ‐ with a few wrong turns. We are discovering Camino in the cities are not well marked. It rained and much of our trek was slippery rocks and mud.

We stayed in an albergue run by the Peruvian nuns. We experienced our first Pilgrim mass, blessing, sharing, and community dinner. A perfect evening. Communion with Christ! Good food and great company with pilgrims from Poland, Hungary, Lithuania, Germany, New York, South Korea, France, Spain, Ireland, ... Visited the Church of Annunciation and lit candles for the intentions of friends, the adorere, and family.


Day 5 The day became an extra‐long day.... The ferry to Santona began at 9am or Spain time, 9:30. With a late start, we ran into heat quick in the day. We walked the streets of quaint towns, the same of beautiful beaches and one steep muddy, rocky, and slippery hill (with gorgeous views). This is when I discovered Kristin's strength is uphill, no matter the terrain! She is also very patient in waiting for me! We saw goats, sheep, horses, cows, cats, dogs, and a variety of amazing surroundings. Our planned destination was San Miguel but the albergue had closed! We were hot, exhausted, needed food and our water supply was low. Our only choice was to keep walking. We came upon a campground. The next albergue was another 6km. We rented a bungalow at the campground for the night. It was the best decision. We purchased food at the camp store and had dinner at their cafeteria. The rest was needed!


Day 7 Still exhausted. Took a 'rest' day and hiked to Guemes and stayed at the famous University of Life Albergue run by Fr. Ernesto, an 80‐year‐old Catholic priest. Arriving early, we expected to sit outside til the doors opened. Instead, we were invited in for coffee and given a tour of the campus. The morning was spent reading in their library while doing our laundry. Our room included three girls from Seattle. At 2pm, lunch of salad, pasta, and pudding was served ‐ a surprise and needed nourishment! Our evening meal was just as good! We shared a community meal with 75+ pilgrims from China, Lithuania, Denmark, Germany, Spain, France, Maryland, Seattle...and Nela, the dog. Fr. Ernesto shared his story. The Albergue was his family home. It was abandoned during wartime. Upon return, Father and volunteers rebuilt the complex to serve the pilgrims, to serve as a migration stop for many birds and to help third world countries by partnering with jail who grow beans. It was an incredible pilgrim experience.


Day 8 It was an early start to Santander, 17.5km. We call this our Amazing Race Day. We hiked farm roads, beaches, caught a ferry, and got lost in the city. At one point, we found ourselves walking against

runners participating in a triathlon. When we reached their start line, I rested on a bench making us miss the ferry by seconds. In addition, the Camino signage for the day was very confusing... especially in the city! Although we lost our first place standing at the Ferry Dock, we managed to arrive in time to get a bed for the night. Next was a tough choice ‐ not really. We were very hungry but knew mass at the Cathedral began at 5pm. Mass was beautiful in Spanish. By attending mass, we missed dinner. The shops close early on Sundays. Could be worse. A fellow pilgrim from Denmark was forced home due to a foot infection. We are counting our blessings.


Day 9 Today we split a 32.5 route into two days. The heat is oppressive. Easy walk and uneventful. Not very picturesque. We followed train tracks most of the day.

The Albergue was more a resort than a pilgrims' stay with a beautiful sitting garden complete with a cat and a sun porch. Just beautiful!!! The cat's name is Camino.


Day 10 It was a 5am wake up by pilgrims leaving early on a day that our first stop was at 6:47am ‐ to take a train across the bridge. I guess at one time, pilgrims could walk the bridge but now it is forbidden.

We stopped at our destination to find another closed permanently sign. We continued to walk ‐ not much choice. We found a small pension. Met pilgrims from Philadelphia. One more day on the Camino for Kristin and she is back to USA.


Day 11 Santillana de Mar is the most friendly and picturesque stop so far on the Camino! It's a wonderfully preserved medieval village with cut rock and a 12th century Collegiate Church. We visited the Diocletian museum and enjoyed the village shops all day! We also took advantage of

grocery stores and restaurants. What a great way to spend Kristin's last day on the Camino!

Camino de Santiago Trekking today: Kathy McDermott

Day 12 My first day solo on the Camino. I said my goodbyes to Kristin at 7am and successfully managed 23.5 km in drizzly cloudy weather. Trails were a bit muddy. Made it to my second favorite town, Comillas, Spain. I took time to grocery shop. It's been such a relief to have food available! Walking is now routine. No aches and pains. I'm done with my training and enjoying the journey. The Albergue was busy. I got a bed without issue but about 20 pilgrims who arrived later were turned away! As we get closer to Santiago, I suspect the Albergues will get busier. The Comillas visitor center helped me map out the next few days coordinating walks and catching up with Bob in Avilés on Saturday. Catching up involves at least one bus ride. I have walked slower and less than originally predicted.

Kristin landed in Newark safely.

Camino de Santiago Trekking today: Kathy McDermott

Day 13 Friday the 13th. Got an early start for a short walk but long day. My 11.7 km hike took me to San Vicente de la Barquera, a fishing resort town with the ruins of an 8th century castle. I could also hear the 13th century Gothic church, Santa Maria de lis Angeles chime Ave Maria! This was the first day of my attempt to catch up. I spent much of the day waiting for a bus to Ovieda. It finally arrived, drove me to a large bus terminal and the driver gave instructions to get off, wait til 16:30 and he would return. I was to find this same bus! He kept my backpack. He was driving to Santiago and back. He did not give me much choice. He drove away, I paced! The bus returned with a different driver (and my backpack) around 18:30! Such relief! I decided to finish the catch‐up that evening making it to Avilés around 9pm. I called ahead to make a reservation at a hostel. They were so welcoming, offered me a pilgrim discount, a private room, shower, and toilet. Tomorrow, I meet up with Deacon Bob who is flying in from Dallas to begin his Camino.

Camino de Santiago Trekking today: Deacon Bob McDermott joins Kathy McDermott

Day 14 Walked the big city of Avilés searching for the hotel where Deacon Bob and I will meet up this evening. It's a beautiful city with a beach, plazas, shops, a cultural center, and more. Pedro Menendez, founder of St. Agusti e, Florida was born here. Most architecture dates to the 12th century. Easy relaxing day. Was so happy to catch up with my new Camino partner.

Camino de Santiago Trekking today: Deacon Bob McDermott and Kathy McDermott

Day 15 Deacon Bob's first day on the Camino took a slow start. We left the hotel and only found one‐way marker!! Thanks to the locals, we were directed back on the Camino path and completed 24km. We stopped by 2pm and checked into an Albergue. Deacon Bob is a real pilgrim now! We split a 39km trip into two days. Today we made it to Muros de Nalon. Didn't seem fair to marathon Bob's first day on the Camino. He reports he survived, no blisters but some muscle soreness.

Camino de Santiago Trekking today: Deacon Bob McDermott and Kathy McDermott (continued)


Day 16 6am wake up became a slow start from the albergue. Coffee, breakfast, and goodbyes. Great day to hike with early morning clouds and a breeze! We caught the Camino Trail immediately. It was well marked. Bob kept checking the map for progress. Felt we had passed our targeted destination. By the time signage had appeared, we still needed to trek another 4km to Soto de Luna! Got my hopes up! Today's travels included lots of step hills and rocky paths. It was

warm and humid by 10am. The day ended after 18km at 1:30pm. A good day...no blisters, and only a few sore muscles. The albergue stay was not for Bob so we opted for a hotel. The convenience of the hotel restaurant for meals and a quiet room could be the top reasons. Bob siesta'd till 7pm! Had to wake him for dinner. He fits in well with the Spain traditions of siesta and 8pm early dinner! Our challenge of the day ‐ besides the map ‐was laundry ... It is so humid, things dry slow! Clean clothes are over rated!


Day 17 What a crazy hike!!!! We followed the Camino way marking signs all day. The signs were well spaced. The trails were well marked. Can't figure what happened!? We hiked two hours uphill to a ridge with great views, but something seemed 'wrong' when trails became narrow with grass waist height! It started drizzling. The grass was wet and therefore our boots and socks were soaked. Time for GPS!!! Google maps showed us off course by miles! What could we do but walk!

We stopped following Camino signs with the main goal to get down the hill and on the other side of the highway. At one point out of the tall grass, we stopped at a bench, changed socks and dumped the water out of our boots! I developed some blisters from the wet boots but more importantly, we found our Way. My feet were sore, so I begged we stay off the muddy,

slippery, rocky trails and hike the road into town. We arrived exhausted at a hotel by 3:00pm. How could the wrong trail be so well marked? No matter… today is goodbye to Camino Del Norte. Tomorrow we travel by train to Ferrol to meet up with our Deacon group of 10 to begin Camino Ingles.


Day 18 The hotel commodore’s father kindly offered us a ride to the train station. They fed us an incredible breakfast and then dropped us at the train station about 9am. We were very appreciative as it was drizzling, and our boots were still drying from the day before.

The train ride was 5 hours from Cadavedo Spain to Ferrol Spain. I got to fast track views I would have seen if I continued hiking on the Del Norte. We were delayed about 45 minutes waiting for another train to clear the tracks. It was a one‐track route. Very glad to wait! Our small Deacon group opted to hike the Camino Ingles route because it can be completed in one week and we can earn a Compestela, the certificate of Camino completion. You must hike minimum 100km into Santiago to earn the Compestela. By 6:30pm, our small group of 10 arrived safely in Ferrol and gathered for dinner. The night began with drinks ‐ dinner does not get served until at least 8pm. We progressed to a family‐style dinner of octopus, cheesy pork on potatoes, a platter of sliced meats, a platter of sliced cheeses, and coffees. After staying out so late, I was not sure the group was ready for their first Camino early morning wakeup call and all‐day hike ‐ It was way past my bed time!!!

Camino de Santiago Trekking today: Deacon Bob McDermott, Kathy McDermott and the Deacon Group

Day 19 First Day on the Camino with all 10 of us began with breakfast at 7am including eggs, bacon, and fresh squeezed orange juice! Delicious! Our hike to the beginning of the Camino Ingles began at 8:30am. We stopped at a nearby church for 9am. We were about the only ones at mass besides the cloistered nuns (behind bars). It was a very slow‐paced walk. The trail was level most of the way. Our challenges included meeting mamma goat and her kids on the trail ‐ she reluctantly let us pass. We were on our journey. Our next challenge was that one of our members arrived in Ferrol with blisters and a heat rash. We were all quite concerned but she heroically completed the 15km. The hotel (not an albergue group) was within a short walk of the beach. Just breath‐taking views! Our first day complete and spirits high.


Day 20 There were a few 'pilgrim shuffles' this morning. Our group had some sore feet and calves this morning. It was a bit daunting that our first few steps were uphill from the hotel to the Camino. We hiked from Nedra to Mino today. Lots of hills. We stopped for the deal of the day lunch. You get a ton of food for a very few Euros. Lunch break took about 2 hours. We hiked from 8am until 5:30pm. We were exhausted arriving at the hotel! It was a long day. The beach was only steps away, but few had the energy to walk those steps! One of our members took a short break only a few yards from our hotel and forgot her trekking poles. By the time she realized, she went back, and someone had taken them!

Lesson learned. Pilgrims take care of each other. There was some shifting of poles among group members and she now has poles to use! Our thought of the day: Did six years of formation prepare us for 6 days on the Camino together?


Day 21 It was a challenging day for our group of 10. We started out from Mino to travel to Presedo, about 16 miles. It was a great morning but then... we stopped for lunch. Two hours later, we were back on the road. It was a day of hills. The 4:00 hour hit, and we were dragging. It drizzled most of the afternoon. Our destination was still two hours away! Some had blisters, others were struggling with joint pain while others were just hangry. Due to a housing shortage (we were getting closer to Santiago), we were forced to taxi to our bed and breakfast house. (No cheating ‐ we were dropped at the same location to start the next day) We ate dinner (empanadas) at a bar off the Camino Trail before taxiing. Just as we stopped, the skies let loose with pouring rain! We were grateful to be done with our walk and under a roof. The accommodations were amazing but for me, any bed would have been a welcomed sight! Since accommodations were booked in the area, the local church opened their doors and allowed pilgrims to sleep on their pews! Space to sleep is becoming difficult to find. Thank you to Deacon David who researched ahead of time and made us reservations! We settled in about 8:00pm... a long 12‐hour day! This seemed the worse day for the group voicing frustration with fatigue and discouragement with long distance. I have heard discussion of some considering this their last day of walking.


Day 22 After much research, Ana found a mass that we could manage walking. The beginning of the day would be

rushed but from the location where we ended yesterday, it would only be about 5km to a church. Mass was at 10am. We felt confident we could do it. We walked about 3km uphill and began to sweat. It crossed our minds that others may not want us in church. We stopped at a small local church to check their mass times ‐ 10am. We kept hiking to avoid wasting time sitting around.

It became apparent that those giving us mass times and church location information were confused. We never found another church! We were a bit discouraged but our rush to get to a church was not in vain. Our fast start set the pace. Unfortunately, there was little water available to refill our bottles along this route. We grabbed sandwiches for lunch, picnicked at a park, and arrived at our destination about 3:30pm, a 15‐mile day. After a few more inquiries, we learned there was an 8:00pm mass nearby...1 ‐2 km.

Most of us took the afternoon to do laundry and we were ready for our trek into town for mass. The bartender offered to give us a ride to church. We accepted graciously! He pitied us. He witnessed one of our group members climbing down stairs backwards! Thank goodness! It was about a 16‐minute car ride!!! Maybe 3‐4 miles! Again, on the Camino, it's always 2 km to anything when you ask a local. Mass was beautiful. Renewed our spirits! We enjoyed our dinner of octopus, fried gravy, salads, and tortillas or omlettes (a potato, egg and cheese pie). Ana was raised in this area and shared some of her childhood stories and traditions. She has warned us all not to wander in the dark as evil lurks searching for souls. Ana pointed out crucibles, a stone Cross with steps at the base ‐ a safe place to sit until dawn if you are out at night. We noticed dwarves in people's yards and on fences. Apparently, dwarves live underground hiding their treasures. We will be in Santiago in two days! I want to slow down! We compare it to reading a good book and as you near the end, you read slower to savor the moments.


Day 23 32 km until we reach Santiago! A bit surreal. Today was a walk in the park. It was scheduled to be a 9‐mile hike. We've walked the White Rock Lake trail together as a group. That was 9 miles. Maybe not that easy. There were a few more hills than Dallas. The group discussed " the more steps today, the less steps into Santiago tomorrow" We hiked until 12:30pm and stopped for lunch. It left us with about 16 km to Santiago. Whohooo! The group has lots of soreness but no talk of quitting. We continue to do the "Pilgrim shuffle", have difficulty getting up (secret is to never sit down), do downstairs backwards, and wear layers of tape on our feet. As we walked today, we prayed the rosary, prayed for the intentions of friends, and stayed positive. Nicknames have surfaced. With all the dwarves around, David claimed his trail name as Dopey which of course made Leanne, Doc because she is involved in every blister triage! Unfortunately, there are only 7 dwarves, so we are four names short (no pun intended). We do not have a grumpy in our group ‐ thank goodness. However, Patty fits the role of Happy ‐ even going uphill! Our usual leader of the pack, Chris has earned the title of Sneezy ‐ especially in the old musty churches. Our bag commodore, Ana has also claimed the name Sleepy. I've never seen anyone hike while sleep walking. We have two Prince charming at the moment; Henry and Bob which means we have two Snow Whites, Donelle and Kathy. We are still working on Paul's trail name although packer fits him as he carries a 30lb back pack (may have exaggerated a bit)

Tomorrow we will be in Santiago. We have no expectations except we have been told there will be a line to obtain our Compestela (a certificate of completion of the Camino de Santiago and is issued to you by the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago de Compostela). We will need to present our credentials (our Pilgrim passport that we have been getting stamped at hotels, bars, and churches documenting our journey) and if everything is in order, we will receive a certificate of completion of the Camino.


Day 24 We trekked our final 12 miles into Santiago today completing our Camino!!! It was a challenging 12 miles of rolling hills but no complaints! There were so many other pilgrims on the trail with us today! We got a private tour of the local church along the way! We had a connection who got the key and waited along the road until we arrived! She unlocked the church and spent time explaining the statues and even the grave within the chapel! Someone should have warned me of the crowds in Santiago. It was packed and full of energy. It is the feast day, and everyone will be celebrating tonight and tomorrow. There were pilgrims, tourists, dignitaries, locals, police, and firemen (fireworks tonight). Because we were a group of 10, we qualified as a pilgrimage and could leave our credentials and return later to pick up our Compostelas. No long line!!!! After checking into our hotel, we explored the city searching for a Mass of Thanksgiving and evening vespers. Once again, the information given was not correct. We were told the Cathedral does not do vespers. However, we managed to find a 6:30 pm mass followed by evening vespers at the cathedral!!! What a special treat! We joined multiple Priests, Deacons, Bishops, ...and an incredible choir. A perfect way to end the Camino! The plaza around the Cathedral was well guarded. There were protesters and party seekers. The city was ready for lots of celebrations. After dinner, we headed back to our hotel avoiding the rowdy scenes. The fireworks began at 11:45pm. Only a few managed to stay awake to witness the display.

More lessons from the Camino: The waitress at one stop was very concerned the Americans were not drinking beer with their lunch. Beer is a must. It helps with digestion! Read 1Timothy 5:23 Leanne has mastered foot repair "making hamburger into veal"! The placement of a long, steep hill just before a town is just rude according to Chris. The botafumiero incense is used at the

end of mass so the smoke can gather all our intentions and raise them to God. The pain of walking with blisters must free many souls from purgatory. To say goodnight, it is Buenas noches, not bona nachos Animos!

The bishop of Santiago told us that the people who walk the Camino often begin as a tourist but end as a pilgrim. The pain and suffering while walking the Camino is our penance and hope. When we end, we are to find joy and peace.


Day 25 It was our first day to sleep in guilt free! After our breakfast, we stopped over to the Cathedral for mass. Apparently, about 2,000 others had the same idea! At 9am, the line of people waiting for the 10:30am mass wrapped around the block!!! We remained hopeful that we would get into the church. The line continued to get bigger growing two more blocks behind us! All these people wanting to celebrate the Feast of St James at Mass!!! As we stood in line, we met a family from Allentown, PA who knows my sister and her family! Small world!!! We just made it into church before they shut the doors! Standing room only but we made it!! The entrance procession began outdoors and included multiple Priests, Deacons, at least 10 Bishops, knights of Santiago, musicians, and the relics of St James. It was a very festive mass. The bishop read a letter sent from the king. Apparently, it is a 400‐year‐old tradition for the king to send a letter to be read at mass on the feast of St James. They homily addressed those present including the pilgrims. He talked of how most pilgrims begin the Camino as tourists but end as pilgrims. The pain, fatigue and suffering on the Camino is penance and hope for the joy and peace at the end. We were hoping we would see the Botafumeiro be used to incense the altar but instead they used the small incensor. As I gave up all hope to see the Botafumeiro in action, the Bishop mentioned that all the prayers and intention of the pilgrims would be caught in the smoke of the Botafumeiro and taken to God. At that point, they swung the Botafumeiro!!! It was very moving (no pun intended) ‐ almost hit the ceiling. What a special way to end the we Camino!

This was our last day in Santiago, together in large group. Our fearless leaders will begin their travels back to the States in the morning. Ana and David have been our navigators, bag commodores, accommodation coordinators, translators, meal organizers, ... and fellow pilgrims. The rest of us will somehow manage while finishing our stay abroad in Porto, Portugal and Madrid. We may be losing Sleepy and Dopey but it’s 'all good'. We still have Doc. Snow White and Prince Charming, Sneezy, Happy and Packer are so pleased to welcome our new navigator, Henry. The Camino ‐ the end. I miss walking already! Our journey, Camino de Vida has just begun!

Camino de Santiagoe27605eebf460ec407cc-b91cc5f003971c661d0b6df777d1e80f.r95.c…Camino de Santiago...

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