HABS No. CA-2687-A

Sespe Ranch, Bunkhouse (Rancho Sespe, Bunkhouse) 2896 Telegraph Road Fillmore Ventura County California

PHOTOGRAPHS

WRITTEN HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE DATA

Historic American Buildings Survey National Park Service

Western Region Department of the Interior

San Francisco, California 94107

Location:

HISTORIC AMERICAN BUILDINGS SURVEY

SESPE RANCH BUNKHOUSE (Rancho Sespe, Bunkhouse)

IA--HABS No. CA-2687-A

2896 Telegraph Road, Fillmore, Ventura County, California, 93001

Present Owner: James Finch, 2423 Hyland Avenue, Ventura, CA 93001

Present Use: Vacant

Significance: The Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse is an historically significant structure due to its association with the Ventura County citrus industry between 1910-1940. As a structure designed to house the ranch's unmarried Caucasian male citrus laborers, it represents one of the very earliest facilities to include such modern amenities as indoor plumbing, cooking facilities, and electric lights. As such, it represents a major turning point in the evolution of housing for Southern California's citrus laborers. The Bunkhouse is a very good, and perhaps the last, remaining example of the historical evolution of citrus workers' housing during the early decades of the twentieth-century.

Historian:

The Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse is also historically significant for its association with Sespe Ranch owner Keith Spalding, who commissioned the design and construction of the structure. Heir to the Spalding family of baseball and sporting goods fame, Spalding served as the head of several industrial corporations with ties to the East Coast, as well as influential cultural associations in Southern California. Perhaps influenced by the ideas of Progressivism and the County Life Movement which contributed to the industrialization of agriculture from 1900-1930, Spalding was one of the most prosperous and successful agribusiness men in Ventura County between 1910-1911, when the bunkhouse was designed and constructed, until his death in 1961. At the time the bunkhouse came into existence, the Sespe Ranch, under Spalding's direction, had become one of the largest privately owned producers of lemons in the state, as well as one of the largest private producers of citrus in the country.

The Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse can also be considered historically significant due to its design and association with the Pasadena architectural firm of Greene and Greene. As undisputed master craftsman and renowned Southern California architects, Charles and Henry Greene were pioneers among the Arts and Crafts and Craftsman styles. Although not directly designed by the Greene brothers, the Bunkhouse's significance in this regard is only slightly diminished, as it was a product of a highly respected and innovative architectural firm. In an architectural context, the bunkhouse is a good example of a Greene and Greene utilitarian design, created for citrus workers' housing during the first decade of the twentieth-century.

Scott A. Moomjian, Office of Marie Burke Lia, Attorney at Law, Prepared for Architect Milford Wayne Donaldson, F.A.I.A., Inc.

PART I. HISTORICAL INFORMATION

A. Physical History:

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1. Date of Erection: 1910-1911, for Keith and Eudora Spalding, owners of the Rancho Sespe. Plans for the "Bunk-House For Keith Spalding, Esq. at Sespe California" were drawn in 1910 by the Pasadena architectural firm of Greene and Greene. The primary set was dated October 27, 1910.

2. Architect: Architectural Firm: Greene and Greene. Architects Charles and Henry Greene are best known for the contribution to the Arts and Crafts and Craftsman styles during the twentieth-century. Charles Sumner Greene was born on October 12, 1868 in Brighton, Ohio, then a suburb of Cincinnati. His brother, Henry Mather Greene, was also born in Brighton, fifteen months later on January 23, 1870. In 1874, the Greene family moved to St. Louis, Missouri. In 1876, the brothers moved with their mother to the Mather farm in Guyandot, West Virginia, while their father, Thomas Greene (formerly an accountant), studied medicine in Cincinnati. Four years in this location led the brothers to a deep appreciation of the natural environment.

From an early age, the brothers were heavily influenced by their father, Dr. Thomas Greene, who encouraged the boys to become architects. In 1880, the boys and their mother returned to St. Louis where their father established his medical practice, specializing in respiratory ailments. The Greene brothers gained understanding of the importance of providing for adequate light and air in designing homes. Dr. Greene, was a friend of Calvin Milton Woodward, the founder of the Manual Training High School, operated by Washington University in St. Louis, Missouri. The school, which opened in 1880, required that each student, in addition to the normal high school curriculum, spend two hours a day at manual training. The first year, students would engage in woodworking and carpentry with an emphasis on an understanding of the inherent characteristics of wood. Their second year would focus on metalworking, and their third on toolmaking. Woodward, who was widely acclaimed as the father of manual training, stressed the dignity of craftsmanship and is credited with introducing handicrafts into American secondary education. Dr. Greene was enthusiastic about Woodward's educational theories and believed that such training would provide an effective background for an architectural career. Accordingly, Charles enrolled in 1883, and Henry in 1884.

The Greene brothers greatly benefitted from Woodward's program. They both became exposed to a craftsman style approach where form results from the nature of materials and the tools employed. Because of this high school background, the Greenes developed a real appreciation of the opportunities of the craftsman, an appreciation that would later be reflected in the detail of their own original work. In 1888, Charles and Henry Greene entered the School of Architecture at Boston Tech (which was later to become part of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology), where their training was in the tradition of historic European styles. They graduated from the school in 1891. Between 1891-1893, the brothers remained in Boston and worked in a variety of different architectural offices. At the end of 1892, the brothers were contacted by their parents who had moved to the "little country town" of Pasadena, California. Faced with poor health, financial problems, and loneliness, the parents urged their sons to move to California. Although the decision was not an easy one to make, the brothers were attracted to the area and left for Pasadena in mid-August 1893.

When the Greene brothers arrived in Pasadena, in 1894, they decided to establish their own architectural firm. Their first commission was for a tombstone, the second was a modest house for a friend of their father. The early projects reflected the traditional tastes of their clients, but in time,

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Greene and Greene achieved recognition for developing the California bungalow to a high art and for creating houses with the quality of fine furniture.

In 1910, the firm of Greene and Greene entered into its final phase. The first three commissions of 1910 never progressed beyond the design stages. By 1910, the Greenes were reputed to be very slow and very costly. Fewer and fewer commissions came their way and they were no longer able to pick and choose among wealthy clients. In fact, the Greene passion for expert craftsmanship ultimately limited their practice. The unwillingness of Greene and Greene to meet the realities of the changing economic picture meant that they priced themselves out of the market. By 1916, most of their major work was done.

In 1910, Greene and Greene were very busy. During this year they were hired to produce new designs for five projects, including the Ernest W. Smith bungalow, the Sam L. Merrill house, and the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse. They also were engaged in completing various projects, as well as working on alterations and additions for other clients. Randell Makinson, a leading authority on Greene and Greene, has argued that there is little to suggest that either Greene brother had much to do with designs produced in 1910.

The work of the two brothers was often complementary. Henry conducted the business affairs, ran the office, controlled the production of working drawings, and was responsible for the financial success of the operations. Charles, on the other hand, spent most of his time engaged in design, away from the office. His concern with the refinements of design left him little time to take part in the technical details of the practice. Much of his work was done in the field or in the mill operated by craftsman Peter Hall. With few exceptions, Makinson notes, Charles had little to do after 1909 with any smaller bungalow designs. His conception and practice of art was channeled into exquisite, but expensive "total design," not open to compromise. As a result, it appears that the designer of the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse was one of many draftsmen or architects employed by the large firm.

By 1909, the two brothers recognized a growing difference in their personal interests. This difference prompted them to work more and more as individuals. In 1916, Charles moved to Carmel. Charles continued to design, while Henry carried on the business. By 1922, it was clear that Henry would continue to practice from the Pasadena office, while Charles would remain indefinitely at his Carmel residence. Although the formal partnership was dissolved in 1924, at this time, very little had actually changed. Their close lines of communication remained; their association on work for clients continued; and they consulted each other frequently on a variety of subjects. Between 1922 and the 1950s, however, commissions were scarce. The Greene brothers became obscure until after World War II. This was due in part to several factors: with the revival of Spanish architecture, the bungalow lost its appeal, the coming of income tax produced few clients, and the brothers developed such high standards for themselves that they simply priced themselves out of the market. Nonetheless, during the late 1940s and early 1950s, more attention was focused upon the Greenes' work. In 1948, the brothers received recognition from the Pasadena Chapter of the AIA, and in 1952, they were presented with a citation from the National AIA, called "formulators of a new and native architecture." Henry died on October 2, 1954 in a Pasadena rest home at the age of 84. Charles died three years later on June 11, 1957 at his home in Carmel at the age of 89. Of approximately 180 major Greene and Greene structures, about 60 remain today, including the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse.

3. Original and Subsequent Owners:

a. James Finch (Current).

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b. Hillman, Prudential Insurance, Paraships, Newport Development (Rivcom), Riverblend International Corporation (1973-1988).

c. California Institute of Technology (1942-1973).

d. Keith and Eudora Spalding (1910-1942).

4. Builder:

a. Harry Payton, native of Fillmore, California.

5. Original Plans and Construction:

a. The Fillmore Heralds Industrial and Home Edition of 1911 described the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse as, "the quarters are beautifully located, [and] have 22 airy and comfortable sleeping chambers. The living room is 30'x32', well furnished and kept as sweet and clean as that of any home. The dining room has accommodations for 75 to 80 people. The kitchen is supplied with all modern utensils for the cleanly and proper preparation of food." (Fillmore Harold 1911:np)

b. The March, 1918 edition of California Citrograph included an article which focused on housing among California citrus labor. The article, based largely upon the narrative of Sespe Ranch Manager W.H. Fleet, more accurately describes the Bunkhouse as a,

"two-story building, 80 ft. by 45 ft., and consists of a large living room, dining room for the general class of employees, private dining room for officials, kitchen, washroom, three bathrooms, three toilets, linen room, storeroom, and 20 separate sleeping rooms on the second floor. The cost of this building was about $7000.00. These sleeping rooms are eight ft. by 13 ft., and the partitions between each room comes to within two feet of the ceiling, allowing free circulation of air above all rooms. Each room has a large window and is furnished with the following: One iron bed and springs, one mattress, two sheets, two blankets in summer and three in winter, one pillow, one white pillow cover, one bedspread, one chair, one table, and a closet with a curtain as dust protector. The cook, waiter and janitor are Japanese. The duties of the janitor are to make up all beds, clean out rooms (with the exception of kitchen and dining room) and keep the building in a neat and tidy condition. Clean sheets for the beds are furnished twice a week, and clean towels in the washroom are furnished every day. If a man should bring his bedding or blankets with him he is given a place to store them until he leaves our employ. Hot water for the baths is furnished twice a week. The method of heating is by stove distillate burners, which heat a 200 gallon tank very quickly. In the living room there are card tables, a large library, billiard table and a large wood heating stove. The employees have a club for the purpose of supplying reading matter in the way of newspapers and magazines, in which they pay dues to the amount of 25 cents a month." (California Citrograph 1918: 96)

c. Edward Wyman Spalding, second cousin to Sespe Ranch owner Keith Spalding and

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a Sespe Ranch employee between August 1937-mid January 1938, recorded his recollections of life on the Sespe Ranch and his stay in the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse in "A Greenhorn At Rancho Sespe," Ventura County Historical Society Quarterly. According to Spalding,

"the barracks housed twenty or thirty hands. We had individual cubicles about ten feet deep and six wide with a door opening onto the center hallway, and a window; mine faced the yard and the mule corral. There was an army cot, a chair, a table, dresser and some hooks under a shelf to hang clothes. The walls were about seven feet high; the space up to the rafters of the barracks was open." (Spalding 1993:6-7)

6. Alterations and Additions:

a. Highway 126, which is located just north of the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse, was realigned several times during the life of the Bunkhouse. One of these realignments occurred in 1937. During the course of this realignment portions of the Sespe Ranch, which were located in the path of the realignment plan, including the area on which the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse was located, were directly impacted. It is believed that in 1937, as a result of the road realignment, the Bunkhouse was moved and its orientation changed. This belief is supported by several photos of the area before and after the Highway realignment.

During the first two decades of the twentieth-century, as the Santa Clara Valley grew in importance, primarily due to the expansion of the citrus and oil industries, the need for a direct traffic route through the entire length of the valley became apparent. At this time, the main valley highway was Route 79, a county highway which served to circuitously connect coastal and inland points. Route 79 also facilitated local traffic which flowed between Santa Paula and Fillmore, the two principal cities in the Santa Clara Valley.

In the early 1930's, it was determined that Route 79 would be realigned in order to provide a more direct route from Ventura to Fillmore. Plans for realignment materialized in 1931, and this realignment project eventually led to the development and creation of State Highway 126, a 47 mile corridor which connects Highway 5 to the east with Highway 101 to the west.

Work on the Highway 126 realignment project was awarded to the Griffith Company and was dated May 18, 1937. The work was to be performed under one contract and was divided into two sections separated by 3.5 miles. The first section was approximately 1.22 mile in length and ran between Santa Paula and the Sespe Ranch. This section began at Pyle Road and extended easterly through the Sespe Ranch, affecting at a minimum, that portion of the Sespe Ranch which housed the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse. The realignment project eliminated two 800-foot radius curves and one 300-foot radius curve along Route 79, substituting Two 2,000-foot radius curves. The second section of realignment work along Route 79 began at "A" Street in Fillmore, and stretched .96 miles east toward Highway 5.

On June 1, 1937, the contract was approved for grading and asphalt concrete paving for the amount of $94,934.65. Work commenced on June 14, 1937, and was presumably completed within the five month window specified by the contract, on or

about November 1, 1937.

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According to the October 1937 edition of the California Highways and Public Works, "[p]revious to the awarding of the contract it was necessary to call for several contracts for the moving of houses within the newly acquired right of way and replace irrigation lines which were within the limits of the work." Because the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse was located within that portion of the first realignment section, there can be no doubt that the Bunkhouse was moved sometime prior to June 1937, when the realignment contract was awarded. State right of way maps of Ventura County from this period indicate that right of way grants were awarded to land owners who held property on the first realignment section in early February 1937. This indicated that the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse was most likely relocated between February and June of 1937.

The belief that the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse was relocated is also supported by historic photographs from 1918 which show sunlight shining directly on what is now the north side of the building. 1925 photos show the Bunkhouse perpendicular to Highway 126 and Bunkhouse #2 which was located directly to the east. The Bunkhouse is now parallel to Highway 126. The original Greene and Greene architectural drawing titles further indicate that the Bunkhouse was moved approximately 90 degrees counterclockwise from its former position. At the time of the relocation a full basement and refrigerator room were also added to the building. The remainder of the building appears to be largely unchanged.

b. North Facade: This facade is labeled "Front Elevation" on the original architectural plans. The plans show this main entrance as having a concrete porch featuring a wooden door with 21 glass lites, and an open beam wood ramada supported by wooden columns. The porch has been greatly modified as the ramada and columns have been removed, but the concrete stoop (circa 1936)remains extant.

c. East Facade: Original plans for this facade could not be located. However, there do not appear to be any modifications to this facade.

d. South Facade: This facade is labeled "West Elevation" on the original architectural plans. The original elevation shows two river rock chimneys, one serving the assembly room area with a large fireplace and one serving the kitchen. The base of the assembly room chimney was designed to measure approximately 8'8" in width and narrowed the height of the chimney from approximately 6'6" in its center to 3'0 at its neck and top. The 1918 article by W.H. Fleet in the California Citrograph describes a large wood heating stove in the assembly room rather than a fireplace. This indicates that river rock chimneys may not ever have been built. Both chimneys are constructed of brick and measure 1'-5" wide by 1' and 3' deep. Another alteration on this facade is the removal of a wooden porch, which was still extant as recently as 1994. Two doors are located on the porch level; one to the north leads to the washroom area, and the second, to the west, once led to the screened porch and kitchen, the porch area as shown on the original drawings having since been incorporated into the kitchen. The existing refrigerator room, meter cabinets, and basement stair enclosure on this side do not appear on the original elevations; historic photographs indicate they were added when the

basement was added ( circa 1936).

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e. West Facade: This facade is labeled "North Elevation" on the original plans. It has been slightly modified, largely as a result of the refrigerator room which does not appear on the original plans. The original plan shows small two windows on the southwest side which provided light and ventilation to the refrigerator room and pantry. This window configuration has been changed to accommodate a new refrigerator room. Two larger windows currently exist in place of the smaller ones. The style and materials of these windows are consistent with other extant windows on the building.

B. Historical Context

1. Surrounding Area: The Sespe Ranch area, which includes the Bunkhouse, is located on approximately 4.25 acres, on both the north and south sides of Telegraph Road (Highway 126) near Fillmore in Ventura County, California. More than thirty buildings, mainly one-story gable roofed structures with board and batten or clapboard siding, are included within the general ranch complex. These buildings include residences, an office, storage sheds, carpenter and blacksmith shops, barns, and dormitories. The majority of these buildings were constructed between 191 O and 1930, and are clustered together along the main road.

In other areas of the ranch there are scattered residences and two large villages. These villages, known as Sespe Village and Oak Village, once contained several dozen workers' houses, most of which have been demolished. Elsewhere on the ranch is a steam generating plant and several reservoirs.

The major agricultural crop of the ranch is lemons, and the main road that bisects the ranch is Telegraph Road, which is lined with Eucalyptus trees, planted in windrows to protect the citrus crops.

2. Rancho Sespe (1769-1854): The Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse and its surrounding area have its roots in the Spanish colonization of Ventura County. "Sespe Ranch" was called "Rancho Sespe" for well over one hundred years. Located in Ventura County's Santa Clara Valley, the area was first explored by Europeans in 1769 under the command of Don Gaspar de Portola. Portola was sent on an expedition from Mexico to colonize the unknown province of Alta California. Portola and his party reached the Santa Clara Valley, named by missionary-explorer Fray Juan Crespi in August 1769 since the valley was deemed a suitable site for a good mission. On the evening of August 10, 1769, the explorers camped on the banks of Piru Creek, which later was to form one of the natural boundaries of the Rancho Sespe. On the afternoon of August 11, traveling further down the river, the party encountered a large stream called "Sespe."

It was not until the nineteenth-century that the Rancho Sespe was formed. Because the Santa Clara valley was far off the main route of travel, much of it remained wild and isolated after it was first identified by European explorers. Over the course of

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time, the mission of San Buenaventura, founded in 1783, gradually extended its grazing rights up the valley. Herds from Mission San Fernando, founded in 1797, crossed the mountains and came down the valley as far as Piru creek. After a quarter of a century, there still remained a wide strip of unoccupied land between the boundaries of the two missions (San Buenaventura and San Fernando).

The first to petition the Spanish crown for ownership of the Sespe Ranch was Don Carlos Antonio Carrillo. Carlos Antonio Carrillo was born in Santa Barbara in 1783, the son of Jose Raimundo Carrillo, a native of Loreto, who came to San Diego in 1769 as a soldier in the overland expedition under Portola. Carlos Antonio was to become a very successful politician and businessman.

Under the laws of the Indies, all provincial lands belonged to the Spanish Crown and were awarded in the form of grants or concessions either to institutions, such as the missions and pueblos, or to individuals (which were awarded sparingly during the Spanish regime in California). Pueblo grants were in fee simple and usually embraced a rectangular tract four square leagues, or about seventeen thousand acres, in extent. Carrillo petitioned the Senor Commandante General of Santa Barbara Presidio on May 23, 1829. In the petition Carrillo declared that he was the owner of 500 head of cattle and of 200 head of "gentle horses, mules and mares"; (Cleland 1957: 17) that the number of these animals must be increased to provide for his subsistence and the maintenance of his numerous family; and that since he had no other land on which to keep his stock except the environs of the Presidio, it was essential for him to obtain the place named Sespe.

In accordance with the required procedure, Carrillo accompanied his petition for the Sespe with a diseno, or map, indicating the boundaries, natural landmarks, and other features of the tract in question. Carrillo described the land in question as running "from an arroyo called Piruc which at its mouth unites with that of Camulos, to the point of the hill which faces another arroyo named Mupu," (Cleland 1957: 18) or from the Piru River to Santa Paula creek. The length of the tract from east to west was four and a half leagues, but the mountains on the north and a range of high hills on the south reduced its width to an average of only three-quarters of a league. The center of the valley was occupied by a large arena/ (sandy bed of the Santa Clara river), and thus only a comparatively narrow strip of arable pasture land was left on either side.

Although Carrillo's request was submitted in 1829, no formal action was taken until 1833. In September 1833, Governor Jose Figueroa instructed the commander of the presidia of Santa Barbara to investigate and report on Carrillo's four year old petition. Three weeks later the commandant reported to Figueroa that, in his opinion, Carrillo was entitled to the grant, even though it involved a technical violation of the colonization act of 1824. On November 22, Governor Figueroa confirmed the grant of the Sespe, "bounded by the Missions of San Buenaventura and San Fernando" to Don Carlos Antonio Carrillo, ordered the grant to be issued, formally recorded, and sent for official approval. This was one of the first Mexican land grants in Ventura County. A formal concession of the Rancho Sespe was delivered to Carrillo one week later. (Haase 1993: 3)

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Despite the fact that Carrillo acquired possession of Rancho Sespe, the Sespe grant was mired in litigation between 1834-1842. Ultimately, Carrillo prevailed and was awarded undisputed possession of Rancho Sespe.

Three years after Carrillo received possession of Sespe, the ranch was supporting some 3,000 heads of cattle, three or four droves of horses and mules, and approximately 400 sheep. There were also two vineyards, two enclosed, cultivated fields, and a two-story ranch house, or casa on a bluff above the river, apparently built sometime between 1839-1845. The house was ultimately either abandoned sometime in the late 1850s or early 1860s as a result of Indian forays, or collapsed due to unprecedented rainfall between 1861-1862 which may have saturated the structure's adobe walls. At the height of Carrillo's prosperity, the Sespe supported from 3,000 to 5,000 head of cattle, an equal number of sheep, and perhaps 500 head of horses and mares .

. Although the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, which ended the Mexican-American war in 1848, brought California under the control of the United States and guaranteed full protection to existing property rights within the state, the federal government challenged the legal status of every Spanish-Mexican land grant throughout the state, including the Rancho Sespe Grant, a few years after annexation. On February 17, 1852, Carrillo petitioned the Board of Land Commissioners, established by the Land Act of 1851, which required every claimant of a Spanish-Mexican grant in California to present legal proof of the validity of title. Carrillo, then sixty-nine years of age, died a few weeks after his claim had been presented to the Land Commission, and long before that body could take action on it.

Although Carrillo had a will, the will was never offered to probate, and it provisions consequently had little effect upon the distribution of his estate. His widow, Josefa Castro received thirteen-fourteenths of the Rancho Sespe. Josefa, however, survived her husband for only about a year. She died in February 1853. The following April, the Land Commission confirmed the original petition of Carrillo for the Rancho Sespe. The boundaries of the grant were those shown on the 1833 diseno, and the area included the extent and quantity of six square leagues, or about 26,000 acres.

A few months after the Land Commission rendered its decision, the probate court of Santa Barbara county ordered the portion of the Sespe Ranch held in the estate of Josefa Carrillo to be sold at public auction. The auction was held on November 8,

1854. The successful bidders at the sale were three brothers, Thomas, Henry, and Alexander More. They paid $17,500 for Rancho Sespe, and less than a year later, purchased the remaining interest for $1,000, thus bringing the total purchase price of the ranch to $18,500, or approximately seventy cents an acre.

3. Rancho Sespe (1854-1889): Among the More brothers, the most dominant figure in the affairs of the Sespe was Thomas Wallace More. Born in Akron Ohio in 1826, Thomas and his brother Alexander joined the overland migration to California in 1849. With the financial backing of a family friend, the More brothers entered the business of cattle buying, purchasing stock in Southern California and driving the animals to northern markets. With money derived from their first ventures in the

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southern cattle trade, the Mores purchased the Rancho Sespe. As opportunities arose, the brothers purchased one great ranch after another, until their holdings extended thirty-five miles in an unbroken line down the valley of the Santa Clara, from Rancho Camulos to the sea. In addition, they acquired the 65,000 acre Island of Santa Rosa, the Rancho Lompoc, consisting of nearly 50,000 acres, making them among the largest land owners in the state.

In 1859, a drought caused serious shortage of grass on Santa Rosa Island, and Thomas More was forced to move his cattle stock to the mainland. From 1862-1864, the whole of Southern California experienced a ruinous and unprecedented drought, causing many of the large ranches to declare bankruptcy. During these years of drought and depression, Henry and Alexander More became dissatisfied with Thomas More's management of the jointly owned ranches and brought about a dissolution of the partnership. In the division, Henry and Alexander More received Santa Rosa Island, while Thomas More became the sole owner of Rancho Sespe and of a smaller ranch near Goleta.

Thomas More was to suffer similar title problems with Rancho Sespe as did Carrillo, since the decision of the Land Commission confirming the grant for six square leagues to the heir of Carrillo had been appealed by the government to the District Court. More's contention that the grant had been made for six square leagues rather than for two square leagues, as the government contended, appeared incontrovertible. However, More's attorney, a well known authority on California land titles named AF. Hinchman, was convinced that the court would invalidate More's title to the Sespe unless his client withdrew the claim for six square leagues and voluntarily accepted the much smaller area. Accordingly, Hinchman introduced a stipulation which stated that More's interest in the Sespe was for two rather than six leagues. More, who objected bitterly to Hinchman's stipulation, was later bound by its provisions. More even went so far as to appeal the decision to the United States Supreme Court, which affirmed the District Court decision, confirming his title to the Sespe on the basis of two square leagues. In accordance with the District Court provisions, a survey of Rancho Sespe was made in 1871, and the grant was located in two tracts--Tract #1, containing 3,088.83 acres, and Tract #2, containing 5,763.98 acres. More was finally issued his grant on March 18, 1872, eighteen years after he had first come into possession of the property.

Although the action of the court was final, More did not cease his efforts to gain possession of the 18,000 acres excluded from the Sespe grant by the Federal courts. A federal law enacted in 1866, permitted the holder of a Mexican grant to purchase any part of his original claim, not allowed by the courts, from the national government for $1.25 an acre, under certain conditions. In accordance with the act, More sought to buy the four square leagues, claimed and occupied under the original Carrillo grant, which the courts had refused to confirm to him. However, in the meantime large numbers of squatters had come into the Santa Clara valley and were seeking to preempt the land to which More asserted a prior right. A long and bitter feud developed between the squatters and More which finally reached a tragic climax in March 1877. On the evening of March 23, More was murdered at the ranch by F.A. Sprague and other squatters. At the time of More's death, the Santa Clara valley was experiencing another severe drought and ensuing depression.

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However, despite severe losses caused by the drought, More's estate remained one of the most valuable in the country, especially in land and cattle.

In addition to other large properties, More's estate included the 8,800 acre Rancho Sespe, which was appraised at $95,000, or at the rate of about $22 an acre. On the ranch were 7,000 head of sheep, worth 50 cents a head; 360 hogs, valued at $1,000; and 30 cattle, listed at $8 each. It also included a variety of miscellaneous items, such as farm machinery, work horses, beans, barley, wool, and asphaltum. In the distribution of More's estate, a one-eighth, undivided interest in Rancho Sespe went to each of More's four children and the remainder to his widow, Susanna Hill de More. Susanna More did not long survive her husband. She died on June 1, 1879, and her half-interest in Rancho Sespe was left to her four children. Three years later, in 1882, her only daughter Martha M. Starke, brought suit against the three sons for a division and distribution of the ranch.

4. Rancho Sespe (1889-1997): Martha Storke's division of the ranch proved successful. The More's youngest child, Alexander received the area known as Rancho Sespe, a total of2,224.86 acres. Because Alexander was a minor, the court made his uncle, Lawrence More, his legal guardian. Alexander's affairs at once began to go from bad to worse. In the course of a few years, his extravagant lifestyle led to financial difficulties. In 1889, he was compelled to mortgage his share of Rancho Sespe to Chicago industrialist Morton B. Hull for the sum of $80,000. A few months later Alexander drowned in the Santa Ynez river.(Haase 1993: 3)

Ultimately Alexander's mortgage went into default and Mr. Hull obtained full title to the property. Hull attempted to subdivide the ranch in 1892, but he died three years later and left the ranch to his children, son Morton and daughter Eudora. On December 29, 1906, Eudora married Keith Spalding. Keith was the son of wealthy merchant Albert Goodwill Spalding, who gained national fame as a baseball pitcher during the 1870s, and established the sporting goods firm of A.G. Spalding & Bros. in 1876. Keith Spalding was born in Chicago in 1877, and graduated from Yale in 1902. Spalding was apparently a close friend of Eudora's brother while at Yale, and made her acquaintance at school.

Over the course of his life, Spalding served at the top of many corporations and cultural organizations. Between 1906-1928, Spalding served as the President of Durand Steel Locker Company in Chicago, and from 1928-1944, the President of Lyon Metal Products, Inc. Between 1917-1944, he also served as the Director of A.G. Spalding & Bros., Inc. Between the early 1940s until 1961, Spalding served as a trustee of the American Museum of Natural History in New York City, the Southwest Museum in Los Angeles, and the Huntington Library in San Marino.

In 1910 Keith Spalding commissioned the design of the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse. In 1915, Eudora purchased her brothers share of the ranch, and the Spaldings became the sole owners of the 2,200 acre tract (Haase 1993:3). At the time of the purchase, the ranch had approximately 1,200 acres under cultivation: 340 in citrus and the rest in hay, walnuts and alfalfa. Eudora Spalding died in 1942. At the time of her death, the ranch had become a showcase known nationally, as well as internationally, for its experiments in citrus. The ranch had been expanded from its original 2,224 acres to 4,300 acres, with 915 acres in citrus, and about 2,100 in

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walnuts, hay, beans, vegetables, and pasture lands. It employed 200-350 people and was self-contained.

In 1942, Mrs. Spalding willed the ranch in trust to the California Institute of Technology (Caltech), with Keith to serve as trustee (Haase 1993: 3). Keith was also Chairman of the Caltech Board. Spalding continued as trustee until his death at his Huntington Hotel residence in Pasadena on June 25, 1961. Spalding's sole survivor was his second wife and former nurse, Lois Fraser Spalding, whom he married on July 2, 1947.

In 1973, Caltech sold the ranch. For the next fourteen years, between 1973-1988, Rancho Sespe was sold five times: to Hillman, Prudential Insurance, Paraships, Newport Development (Rivcom) and the Riverbend International Corporation. In 1988, Riverbend filed for bankruptcy and, using the old 1892 subdivision plat map, began to sell Rancho Sespe parcel by parcel. By the end of 1991, all parcels had either been sold or were in escrow. The Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse and approximately 56 acres of the surrounding Sespe Ranch were purchase by the current owner James Finch.

5. Sespe Ranch and Ventura County Agriculture (1873-1915): During Thomas More's ownership of Rancho Sespe, the Santa Clara Valley represented a typical cross-section of the California pastoral frontier. The region was known especially for the abundance and variety of its wild animal life. This included a vast assortment of small game such as quail, rabbits, coyotes, and large numbers of deer, antelope, Big Horn sheep, grizzly bears and California condors.

At the time of the Spanish occupation, in addition to abundant game, the valley supported a large Native American population. The Sespe Indians were part of the Chumashan linguistic family, to which all the natives of the Santa Barbara channel and the adjacent islands belong. At the time of the Spanish contact, there were perhaps between 8,000-10,000 Chumash. The Chumash village, located on the Sespe, was called Mahala!. Acorns constituted one of the chief sources of food for the Sespe Indians, as well as fish, maize, and berries.

With the coming of the Missions, agriculture was introduced into the Santa Clara valley. Initially, the padres depended upon their own resources, including roasted barley (atole) and cornmeal (pinole); fresh beef and mutton; and vegetables, commonly served with coarse meal cakes. With the establishment of the San Buenaventura Mission in 1783, the Mission fathers built an extensive irrigation system, planting vineyards, and orchards of olive and pear trees. They raised corn and barley, and other vegetables. Although the Spanish were more interested in cattle than in agriculture, they also planted vineyards, and olive and pear orchards around their haciendas.

The first field crops produced in the Santa Clara valley were corn, wheat, barley, and beans. Flax was grown successfully, but no market could be found for it. The first orange orchard to be established in the immediate vicinity of Rancho Sespe was planted in 1874 by a man named Clark. The grove consisted of 100 acres of seedling trees and was located not far from the present town of Santa Paula. F.H.

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Dudley later set out an orchard on La Jolla or Lord's Creek. Early in the 1870s, several groves of walnut trees were planted in the neighborhood of the Sespe and honey was produced in large quantities in the foothills and adjacent canyons.

Sespe Ranch became known for its citrus production in the first decade of the twentieth­century. In 1908, while owned by the Hull children, the ranch was developed as a citrus property. Some ninety acres were set out to grow lemons, and in 1909, another section of undetermined size was set out. By 1910, when the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse was designed, it is believed that the ranch had become one of the largest privately owned producers of citrus in the country, and was one of the largest producers of lemons in California prior to the famous Limoneria, the Santa Clara Valley's most successful private lemon ranch. Managed by W.H. Fleet, citrus production at the Sespe increased to include 330 acres, with 35 acres in Valencia oranges, and the rest in lemons. In 1913 a heavy freeze killed some 150 orange trees, and this land was replanted the next year. Future planting included an even further increase in Valencia oranges, navel oranges, grapefruit, and lime. In 1915, to care for a constantly increasing citrus crop, a modern packing house was built. Agricultural products harvested at Sespe Ranch were not, however, confined to citrus fruits. Walnuts, beans, hay, and pasture land were also nurtured on the ranch.

6. Sespe Ranch labor and the Citrus Industry (1880-1940): By 1880-1900, labor­intensive agriculture had become the major industry in Ventura County. Two crops, citrus, and sugar beets, became the mainstay of the county's new economy. The development of this industry was characterized by the predominance of a few large­scale farmers. These growers formed a new class of agribusiness men, who became the most influential members of the county and the major employers of the expanding farm labor class.

One of the first important intensive labor crops introduced in Ventura County during the 1890s was citrus. Chinese laborers were utilized during the 1880s and early 1890s. As agricultural production became more intensive, the Chinese became an important source of seasonal farm labor. Chinese laborers, however, were opposed by a large majority of the local Anglo population. The "free labor" ideology and a number of social-cultural arguments were used to fuel the anti-Chinese movement in the county. Once the Chinese Exclusion Act was passed, the Chinese population declined in large numbers. By 1900, the Chinese were only a fraction of the total population in Ventura County and could no longer be relied upon as an important source of cheap labor.

The Japanese immigrant population, which first settled in the county in the mid-1890s, primarily filled the labor vacuum created by the decline of the Chinese population. The few Japanese in Ventura County in 1900 were utilized overwhelmingly as farm laborers. Most of the Japanese farm laborers in the county were single men who secured employment through labor contractors. These laborers were used first in the county's lima bean, sugar beet, and citrus industries.

At the turn of the century, while Japanese laborers were replacing Chinese workers as the dominant labor class, the citrus industry's efforts to stabilize markets led to a shift in the locus of control over harvesting activities. Centralizing such control in the Packing Houses left the industry more vulnerable to worker organizations seeking better pay and conditions. Beginning around 1910, Japanese workers undertook

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such efforts and employers, antagonized by wage demands and by the success of some Japanese as competing growers, began to replace them with Mexican workers. Because Mexican workers could cross the international border with very little immigration restriction during the first three decades of the twentieth-century, by the 1930s Mexicans became, the predominant ethnic group in the citrus labor force.

To control the new labor force, citrus employers used a dual strategy. The first element of this strategy involved the elimination of the labor contractor. Until the Mexican workers came to dominate the harvest labor force, Chinese and Japanese labor contractors supplied most of the industry's harvest labor and occasionally supported their crews in labor disputes. Because of this "ethnic clannishness," employers regarded the contractors as too independent and unreliable. As the employers replaced Asian workers with Mexicans they simultaneously made inroads against the contractors. By the late 1930s, Ventura County producers had eliminated Asian labor contractors and worker completely.

The second element of the citrus employers stabilization strategy involved improving the dismal living conditions of their workers. As early as 1910, packing houses throughout Southern California began to replace substandard single male camps with family housing. Much of the housing was quite modern for its era, with running water, cooking facilities, and electric lights. Although these new strategies did not eliminate attempts by workers to organize, such attempts became rarer, and until the 1930s, employers put an end to them quickly and easily.

In 1910, Sespe Ranch was no different from other Ventura County ranches in terms of labor. During this period, until at least the late 1930s, Sespe Ranch employed Caucasian, Japanese, and Mexican laborers for intensive agricultural production. These laborers were divided by ethnicity and resided in separate areas and living quarters. The Spaldings developed elaborate plans for the housing and care of the employees. Each different camp was situated far enough from the other so that each ethnic group could live according to their own customs. This was a deliberate policy instituted to reduce friction among the different ethnic groups on the ranch. Another policy, to be followed as closely as possible was to hire "married people, White, Japanese, and Mexicans, so that the organization can be kept more permanent." (California Citrograph 1918: 97)

7. Sespe Ranch labor (Anglos): The first labor group consisted of Anglo or Caucasian "official" employees, those in charge of the various departments of Sespe Ranch. The officials apparently lived in a bungalow cluster of "bachelors quarters." These homes housed the heads of different departments, such as the Head Engineer, Packing House Manager, Farming Oepartment Manager, Hand Labor Foreman, Engineering and Construction Manager, as well as the General Manager and Assistant General Manager. In addition to these bungalows, there was a residence, presumably for single ranch officials. It had eight rooms, one large office, five sleeping rooms, and two bathrooms. The office was used for meetings of the various department heads in the evenings to discuss and map out ranch work.

The first labor group also included of the Anglo or Caucasian laborers. For the Caucasian married men who were permanently employed, twelve "California" houses were furnished, which cost about $1,000 to $1,200 on average to construct.

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These houses consisted of four to five rooms, and were provided with free water, as well as plumbing, painting, and repair services. A nominal rent ranging from $5 to $8 was charged as rent. Single Caucasian laborers were quartered in two large dormitory like structures. For the purposes of this report these have been identified as the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse (Dormitory No. 1) and Dormitory No. 2.

8. Sespe Ranch Labor (Mexican): A second group of laborers on the Ranch were the Mexican. The Mexican community resided in a "village," located approximately a half-mile to the east of the Bunkhouse. This "village," was composed of

"a cluster of board and batten shacks that housed the families of the Spanish-speaking workers on the ranch. Their work was mainly as 'pickers.' They were poor-desperately poor. But they were essential to the success of the ranch. Men, women and children 'picked.' They also gathered walnuts later on in the fall. Many of the women used their skillful fingers to sort, wash, wax, and wrap for crating the citrus fruit that flowed through our packing house." (Spalding 1993: 17)

The Mexican laborers occupied approximately 64 houses. The land for the houses was furnished by the ranch, free of charge. Around each house was a plot of ground, approximately 100 x 100 feet, with free water piped to each lot, on which each family, or individual, could raise vegetables for consumption. The Mexicans built their own houses, sometimes with two or more rooms, usually depending on the size of the family.

It was believed that by allotting the Mexican laborers free land, and allowing them to construct their own homes, a "home-like feeling" was created. Compared to other large ranches in Ventura County, the Sespe Ranch housed their Mexican laborers differently. According to Sespe Ranch Manager W. H. Fleet,

"the plan of other large ranches in building houses for Mexicans and charging them rent, does not seem to us to be as good a system, as it does not give the Mexicans the same feeling of permanence. In cases where Mexicans employed by us have not the ready cash to buy the lumber to build the house, we buy it for them, and deduct usually $10 a month from their wages until the bill of lumber is paid for. If a Mexican leaves the employment of the ranch before he pays the entire lumber bill he loses his equity in then house. We then allow some other Mexican family to move into the building and take up the payments where the other occupant left off. But when we discharge one of them we return to him his equity, unless he sells th& :""iouse to some other Mexican. If we assume the equity we sell it to some other Mexican under the same terms as stated above. The evidence of the contented feeling brought about by this system, was exhibited last summer and fall, when solicitors came among our Mexicans offering them $3.50 to $4.00 a day in bean and beet harvesting. They could not procure any of our Mexicans as they invariably answered these solicitors in these terms: 'I have my home here with my family and my garden, or my pig or my cow, and steady work."' (California Citrograph 1918: 96-97)

9. Sespe Ranch Labor (Japanese): A third labor group at the Ranch was the Japanese who occupied a separate camp, located north of the general ranch

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headquarters. Married couples had the use of small, three-bedroom houses, with plumbing and separate a bathhouse. These houses cost from $500 to $800 and a rent of $6 a month was charged for them. Single Japanese men lived in a dormitory. This dormitory was very similar to the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse, except that the sleeping rooms opened out on porches, with stairs leading up from both ends of the building. It was built some time prior to 1918. A contemporary account listed the cost of the building at $5,000.00, and notes it contained,

"a living room, dining room, large kitchen with Japanese cook stoves, 20 sleeping rooms upstairs and four downstairs. The living room is 20 ft. by 28 ft., dining room 20 ft. by 36 ft., kitchen 20 ft. by 20 ft. and sleeping rooms 1 O ft. by 7 ft. A monthly rent of 75 cents is charged each occupant. The ranch furnishes one bed and springs, one mattress, one table, one chair. The occupants furnish their own bedding themselves. In the dining room are two long tables and seating benches enough for 50 people. One feature of the Japanese quarters is their large bathhouse. This building is 40 ft. by 27 ft., with cement floor throughout. Here are located the toilets and washroom, and in the center is a large concrete tank for bathing 1 O ft. by 3 ft. deep. Hot water is furnished by a wood or oil heater which heats a tank of 300 gallons. There are also two shower baths in this building." The Japanese Bunkhouse and Bathhouse have since been demolished. (California Citrograph 1918:97)

The Japanese performed a great deal of the packing work, as well as cooking, dishwashing, and janitorial work. In the early twentieth-century, the Japanese made up the majority of ranch laborers. However, by the late 1930s, the dominant ethnic group was Mexican.

The extent to which the Spaldings instituted work force controls, if at all, is unclear. While the family most likely engaged in an effort to eliminate labor contractors, either consciously or unconsciously, it does not appear that they sought to improve the living conditions of their workers in attempt to dissuade them from organizing. Either in an effort to perhaps bypass Chinese and Japanese labor contractors, or in reliance upon an influx of Mexicans in the labor market, it is clear that by the late 1930s, the Sespe ranch was hiring more Mexican rather than Asian labor, as were the rest of the ranches throughout Ventura County. Physical improvements in worker living quarters manifested in new construction, namely the bunkhouse and the dormitory. The bunkhouse can perhaps best be viewed as one of the earliest housing facilities designed for single male laborers with modern features, such as indoor plumbing, cooking facilities, and electric lights. It is unlikely that it was designed purely to eliminate attempts by workers to organize due to the expense associated with its design and construction, the group it was built for, and the time period in which it was built. More likely, as the citrus industry began to develop and grow on the Sespe, the Spaldings simply concluded that it was cost effective to create new and lasting modern housing facilities for a growing number of employees.

10. Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse: The Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse was designed in 1910 (dated October 27th) by the architectural firm of Greene and Greene and was constructed in 1911. It was built by Harry Payton who was born on the Sespe Ranch. The Sespe Ranch Dormitory No. 2 was also designed by Greene and Greene, and constructed around 1919. Each man residing in either dormitory had

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an individual room. "The Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse accommodated only single Caucasian men" (Haase 1997)

Most of the laborers who stayed here during the late 1930s were from Missouri.

PART II.

Because Sespe Ranch is located in Ventura County, while the Greene brothers established their firm in Los Angeles County, there is some question as to how Keith Spalding came to hire and retain them as architects. In addition to the "Bungalow" the Spaldings lived in at the Ranch, they also kept residence in Pasadena. For many years it was rented, and later purchased by Keith Spalding after his wife Eudora died. This residence doubled as Mr. Spalding office, away from his ranch­related activities, and has been described as a spacious "cottage" in back of, or very close to, the Huntington Hotel in Pasadena. Keith Spalding being active in Pasadena affairs, and the Greene brothers being very well known in the Pasadena community, it is likely that Spalding came to meet, and ultimately hire the famous Pasadena architects prior to or in the early part 1910. Spalding was undoubtedly attracted to their utilitarian style of architecture, which embodied quality without pretension.

ARCHITECTURAL INFORMATION

A. General Statement

1.

2.

Architectural Character: The Building was designed in a vernacular style. It has a gabled roof and board and batten siding. It is a good example of a utilitarian Arts and Crafts Building designed by the office of Greene and Greene in 1910.

Condition of Fabric: Most changes to the building occurred ca. 1936 when the building was moved and a full basement was added. At that time the kitchen was expanded with a new refrigerator room, and the window configuration on the west side was changed to accommodate the addition. The original refrigerator and pantry were removed, a dumb waiter was added between the basement and kitchen, and large kitchen vent which extends through the second floor and roof was also been added ca. 1936. A large river rock fire place was shown in the Assembly room on the .191 O plans, However a 1918 Citrograph article indicates that this room was heated by a lrage wood stove, thus the river rock fireplace may not ever have been built. The existing chimneys are brick.

B. Description of Exterior:

1. Overall dimension: 92'-11" x 54'-6" The building totals 9,332 square feet. The basement measures 81'-10" x 54'-4" with 3,297 square feet. The first floor measures 92'-11" x 54'-6" with 3,419 square feet. The second floor measures 82'-1" x 31'-10" with 2,616 square feet.

2. Foundations: The building has a full basement with 9" thick board formed, cast in place concrete walls and a concrete slab on grade. This basement was added to the building when it was relocated ca. 1936. The addition of the refrigeration room at the first

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floor is wood framed on columns set on a continuous concrete curb.

3. Walls: This two story wood framed building has 1%" x 2%" stud walls at 24" on center with diagonal bracing at all exterior walls.

The exterior of the building has 3/4" x 12" redwood board and 1/2" x 3" redwood batten siding.

A 1" x 8" redwood trim runs around the exterior of the building at the second floor level. The siding extends to the first floor where it is ended by a 3" x 4" trim before the concrete basement begins.

4. Structural System, Framing:

The first floor framing is 2" x 6" (actual size) joists at 16" on center running in the north/south direction over beams and built-up beams.

The first floor ceiling is 3/4" x 12" redwood boards and 1/2" x 3" redwood battens attached to the second floor joists, running in the east/west direction.

The second floor framing is 2" x 1 O" (actual size) joists at 24" on center, running in the north/south direction over beams and built-up beams.

The second floor ceiling is 3/4" x 12" redwood boards and 1 /2" x 3" redwood battens attached to 2" x 4" (actual size) bottom truss chords at 24" on center, running in the east/west direction.

The roof framing is site built roof trusses which span 31' 10". The trusses are fabricated from 2" x 4" (actual size) top chords, bottom chords and braces.

5. Porches. Stoops, Balconies, Bulkheads:

6.

7.

The original rear porch was removed from the south side of the building after 1994.

The wooden ramada has been removed from the front porch, but the concrete · stoop remains. There is evidence that the ramada was in place following the building relocation. The stoop extends 12'-6" out from the building and is 14' wide with 4 steps to the ground. A large flag pole which can be seen in historic photographs has also been removed, this flag pole does not appear on the original drawings.

Chimneys: The building has two brick chimneys that are loc2t~d on the south side of the building where the stone chimneys shown in the 1910 drawings are indicated. Both brick chimneys have been painted. The kitchen chimney which is no longer in use, has been dismantled above the roof and capped with a galvanized sheet at the roof line. The assembly room chimney has partially deteriorated. The existing bricks extend above the roof line. The chimney has rotated above the roof line and the top has been partially dismantled. Loose bricks exist at the point of the steel strap used to brace the chimney to the roof.

Openings: a. Doorways and Doors:

The front door to the building (on the North side) is a custom made 21 lite trench door with original hardware. The door measures 3'-11 %" wide by

C.

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6'-5" high. The three doors on the south side of the building are paneled wood doors. One door leads to the basement. Two doors are located at the porch level; one to the north leads to the washroom area, and the second, to the west, once led to screened porch off the kitchen. The porch area as shown on the original drawings has been incorporated into the kitchen. The two porch level doors are screen doors measuring approximately 2'-10" wide by 6'-6" high.

b. Windows: The main window type is a double hung wood window. The double hung windows are typically 3' wide. They are 5' - 1" tall on the first floor and 4'-6" tall on the second floor. There are single double hung windows and paired double hung windows which have a 9" mullion between them. The wash room has eleven 2' x 5' screened openings on the north and east sides. The windows at the end of the hallway on the second floor are paired casement windows used for emergency egress. The casement windows measure 2' x 4' - 6" each. The operable metal windows at the basement level are typically 2' - 7" wide and 1' - 11" tall. Two basement windows on the west elevation have been filled in with concrete and one basement window on the east side has been modified with a swinging metal hatch door for food delivery after 1936.

8. Roof: a. Shape and Covering:

The roof is a simple gabled roof with an approximate slope at 5 inches per foot. The roofing material is redwood shingles over a skip sheathing. The single story kitchen and wash room have a built-up asphalt roof with an approximate slope of 1 /4" per foot.

b. Cornice and Eaves: The Eaves overhang approximately 3' 9" on the main roof; attached to the eave is a half round metal gutter that leads to painted metal down spouts. The down spouts occur at the northeast, northwest, and southwest corners and on the south side of the building. The exposed overhang shows the skip sheathing and redwood shingles. The gable end overhangs are supported by 6" x 4" outlookers with a 4" x 6" angled brace.

Description of Interior:

1. Floor Plans: a. Basement

The existing basement does not appear on the orioinal 1910 plans of the Bunkhouse. The plans indicate a 3' tall crawl space under the first floor. The basement appears to have been added circa 1936 when the building was moved. The existing basement was the center of food storage and distribution for the Sespe Ranch. It is believed that the kitchen in this building served many more workers than those who lived in the Bunkhouse.

Much of the fabric of the Basement remains extant. There is an access hatch and conveyor belt in the large room which was used for sorting dry

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goods. Meat was delivered to the Basement through a delivery door and pulled to one of three refrigerator rooms on a butcher's track. When food was needed in the kitchen it was delivered on a dumbwaiter from the basement. The Basement also houses the building's mechanical systems, including the water heater and electrical circuitry. The exterior walls are 9" thick site built board formed concrete. Interior walls are wood framed and paneled. The ceilings in all rooms except the refrigerator rooms are unfinished leaving the first floor framing exposed.

b. First Floor: Most of the original fabric remains in the interior. The Assembly room is extant except the wood burning stove, described in the 1918 California Citrograph article by W.H. Fleet, which has been removed. The stair, hall and office are extant. The washroom, toilet and bath stalls are extant. All fixtures in the wash room and bathing area are extant, except one tub which has been removed from the last bath stall. The dining room and office walls are covered with a plain wood sheathing and painted.

The kitchen has been extensively modified. A large vent measuring approximately 6' x 8' has been added above the stove. The original pantry and refrigerator room have been removed. A new refrigerator room was added outside of the original foot print of the building on the southwest comer. A dumbwaiter from the basement was also added circa 1936. The cabinet configuration in the kitchen is extant along the north and west wall only.

c. Second Floor: The second floor is divided with 6' 8" tall redwood board and Batten partitions into 20 sleeping rooms. The second floor is largely extant, although several of the board and batten partition walls between the rooms and some of the closets have been removed. Two doors have been removed. The partitions in room #10 have been modified to enclose the space up to the ceiling. The room directly above the kitchen, not labeled currently, but historically labeled #18 is occupied with the kitchen vent added in circa 1936 which extends through the ceiling.

2. Stairways: The building has one central internal stairway measuring 4'-3" wide. All original woodwork is extant but covered with non-historic paint. There are 17 treads ( 11 %" typical) and 18 risers (6%" typical) in a single run with a wood handrail on one side. The wood treads and risers are currently painted. The treads have a rubber stair tread and nosing approximately 36 inches long.

3. Flooring: All original wood floor remains throughout the building. The exposed wood floor measures 3/4" by 3%" running in the east/west direction. The washroom, entry hall, office and kitchen have been covered with sheet vinyl. The exposed wood floor throughout the building has been painted.

4. Wall and Ceiling Finish: All interior wall surfaces were historically exposed studs with diagonal and mid span blocking, and board and batten exposed from the exterior. The ceilings are

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all redwood board and batten that match the exterior of the building. All interior surfaces have been painted. The entry hall was also finished with redwood board and batten on the walls. Although a more detailed study is recommended, it appears that the interior was originally stained and varnished. The interior walls of the office, dining room, and kitchen were finished with a plain wood sheathing at a later unknown date.

5. Openings:

6.

7.

8.

d. Doorways and Doors: The interior doors are a typical 5 panel wood door, originally stained, now painted. Three doors have been removed. On the first floor, the door between the entry room and washroom has been removed. On the second floor, two doors have been removed. One door was removed from the linen room and the other from a sleeping room. The second floor doors are 2' 6" wide by 6' 6" high. The first floor doors range between 2'-8" and 4'-10" wide and are 6'-6" high. All remaining doors have their original hardware. The front door is 4'-0" wide and 6'-6" tall and is a distinctive 21 lite french door.

e. Windows: All wood windows remaining are extant. All windows are double hung except for the casement windows at the end of the hallway on the second floor which were used for emergency egress to the ladders on the side of the building. Full casing top trim is 5%" and side and bottom trim is 4%" typical for all windows.

Decorative Features and Trim: This building has few decorative features because it was a simple utilitarian building. Some simple decorative features are the historic light cover over the front door, the wooden stair hand rail and guardrail, the chamfered posts, wooden door stops, and eave detailing.

Hardware: Most original door and window hardware remains in the building. The doors have ball tip hinges and round brass knobs with full mortise latch and locksets.

Mechanical Eguipment: a. Heating, Air Conditioning, Ventilation:

The only original heating system was a wood burning stove in the assembly room which has been removed. There was no air conditioning and ventilation occurred naturally through operable windows and screened porches.

b. Lighting: Many switches and fixtures appear to be original to the building. Most switches are a knob type switch. The light fixtures are simple exposed bulbs in an open socket with a pull chain. The electrical switch gear and meters were changed out circa 1936. Some electrical items were added at this time.

c. Plumbing: All plumbing fixtures including sinks, toilets, and bathtubs are extant in the

D. Site:

building except one bathtub.

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Sewer piping is cast iron and appears to be circa 1936. The water piping is galvanized iron.

1. General Setting and Orientation:

Currently the building is situated approximately 50 feet from Highway 126. A ranch hand's house stands 50 feet to the west. Along the south side there is a dirt road used for agricultural access to the groves and support buildings. A second bunkhouse was located to the east but was moved to Fillmore in the mid 1990's.

2. Historic Landscape Design: Historic photos show vines and shrubs at the front elevation which no longer exist. However, there was not a planned landscape design for the project.

3. Outbuildings: A shower house sits approximately 60 feet south of the bunkhouse across the access road. This building is historic. The showers were used by residents of the bunkhouse as well as other workers who did not live in the bunkhouse, but used the dining facilities of the bunkhouse.

PART Ill. SOURCES OF INFORMATION

A. Original Architectural Drawings 1. Columbia University, Avery Architectural Library, New York.

B. Historic Photographs

SESPE RANCH, BUNKHOUSE HABS No. CA-2687-A (Page 23)

1. Ventura County Museum of History and Art, Photographic Archives, Ventura, California. 2. Fillmore Historical Society, Photographic Archives, Fillmore, California. 3. California Citrograph, March 1918.

C. Bibliography 1. Primary and Unpublished Sources

a. Reports

1. Thirtieth Street Architects, Inc., "Sespe Ranch Dormitory and Bunkhouse Relocation Study," March 11, 1994.

2. Triem, Judith P., Cultural Heritage Survey, Phase IV, Santa Clara Valley, 1987-1988, Prepared for the Ventura County Cultural Heritage Board.

b. Manuscripts

1. Almaguer, Thomas, Class, Race, and Capitalist Development: The Social Transformation of a Southern California County, 1848-1903, Doctoral Dissertation, Sociology, University of California, Berkeley, 1979.

2. Barnett, Theda, "Tracing Rancho Ownership," Rancho Sespe File, Ventura County Museum of History and Art, n.d.

3. Greene and Greene Library, "Architects Greene and Greene," San Marino, Research Archives, April 13, 1988.

4. Greene and Greene Library, San Marino, Research Archives, "Keith Spalding," n.d. 5. "Rancho Sespe Papers," Fillmore Historical Society. 6. Spalding, Keith, "Rancho Sespe," Rancho Sespe File, Ventura County Museum of

History and Art, 1956. 7. Ventura County Free Library, "Rancho Sespe, Private farming on a big scale,"

Ventura County--Historic Spots (Rancho Sespe), Rancho Sespe File, Ventura County Museum of History and Art, August 11, 1955.

8. Caltrans Library, Route 126, Ventura County, "Completed Contracts-June 30, 1946" Cha

c. Letters

1. Spalding, Edward Wyman, to Scott A. Moomjian, September 9, 1997.

d. Interviews

1. Haase, Ynez, Telephone Interview with Scott A. Moomjian, September 15, 1997. 2. Makinson, Randell L., Telephone Interview with Scott A. Moomjian, September 10,

1997. 3. Moses, Vincent, Telephone Interview with Scott A. Moomjian, September 10, 1997.

SESPE RANCH, BUNKHOUSE HABS No. CA-2687-A (Page 24)

4. Spalding, Edward Wyman, Telephone Interview with Scott A Moomjian, September 8, 1997.

5. Glenn, Keneth K., Telephone Interview with Scott A Moomjian, March 10, 1998 6. Karagan, Chuck, Telephone Interview with Scott A Moomjian, Caltrans, District 7

Office, March 6, 1998.

2. Secondary and Published Sources

a. Books

1. Cleland, Robert Glass, The Cattle on a Thousand Hills, San Marino, The Huntington Library, 1941.

2. Cleland, Robert Glass, The Place Called Sespe, San Marino, The Huntington Library, 1957.

3. Levine, Peter, A.G. Spalding and the Rise of Baseball, New York, Oxford University Press, 1985.

4. Makinson, Randell L, Greene & Greene, Architecture as a Fine Art, Santa Barbara, Peregrine Smith, Inc., 1977.

5. McCoy, Esther, Five California Architects, New York, Reinhold Book Corp., 1960. 6. Sheridan, Edwin M., History of Ventura County, Its People and Its Resources, 1940. 7. Strand, Janann, A Greene & Greene Guide, Pasadena, The Castle Press, 1974. 8. Thomas, Jeanette A, Images of The Gamble House, Masterwork of Greene &

Greene, The Gamble House, School of Architecture, University of Southern California, 1989.

9. Who Was Who In America, Volume IV, 1961-1968, Chicago, Marquis-Who's Who, Inc., 1968.

10. Who's Who In America, Volume VIII, 1914-1915, Chicago, AN. Marquis & Company, 1914.

b. Journals

1. Moses, Vincent, "Oranges for Health--Califomia for Wealth: The Billion-Dollar Navel and the California Dream," The Californians, July/August 1985.

2. Shamel, AD. "Housing The Employees of California's Citrus Ranches," California Citrograph, March 1918.

3. Spalding, Edward Wyman, "A Greenhorn At Rancho Sespe," Ventura County Historical Society Quarterly, Volume 38, Numbers 3 & 4, Spring & Summer 1993.

4. State of California, Business and Transportation Agency, "State Highway Routes, Selected Information 1994," Division of Highways System Engineering, April 1994

5. Templeton, W.I., "Abolish Curves On Route 79 In Ventura County," California Highways and Public Works, March/April 1955.

6. Whitnall, Hugh, "The Twin Dragons Of The Sespe,"California Highways and Public Works, March/April 1955

c. Newspapers 1. Los Angeles Times, "Historical Sespe Ranch Sold To Partnerships," December 13,

1987.

PART IV. PROJECT INFORMATION

SESPE RANCH, BUNKHOUSE HABS No. CA-2687-A (Page 25)

HABS documentation has been completed as a mitigative measure due to the planned relocation of the Sespe Ranch Bunkhouse to the California Citrus State Historic Park in the City of Riverside. This documentation was sponsored by the City of Riverside Parks and Recreation Department and the State of California.

The project was directed by Architect Milford Wayne Donaldson, FAIA. The Project Supervisor is Brian Rickling of Architect Milford Wayne Donaldson, FAIA, Inc. The author of the Historical Information is Scott A. Moomjian of Marie Burke Lia, Attorney at Law. The authors of the Architectural Information are Milford Wayne Donaldson, FAIA, Brian Rickling, and Carmen Pauli of Architect Milford Wayne Donaldson, FAIA, Inc.

Field measuring of the building took place in October 1997 with Brian Rickling, Carmen Pauli, Richard Stewart and Joy Guevara of Architect Milford Wayne Donaldson FAIA, Inc. Photographs of the building took place in October 1997 with Ed Gohlich and Larry Stanley of Ed Gohlick Photography. Historical research was conducted by Marie Burke Lia and Scott Moomjian of Marie Burke Lia, Attorney at Law.

ADDENDUM TO: SESPE RANCH, BUNKHOUSE (Rancho Sespe) 2896 Telegraph Road Fillmore Ventura County California

WRITTEN HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE DATA

HISTORIC AMERICAN BUILDINGS SURVEY PACIFIC GREAT BASIN SUPPORT OFFICE

National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior

600 Harrison Street San Francisco, CA 94103

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