Burda's Instruction a-D

FALL 2014 burdastyle.com 67

project instructions

102- 082014-USLong jacket !!!

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 32Finished back length: 3712" (95cm)

MaterialsCrushed linen, 54" (137cm) wide, cut on bias: size 36: 334yds (3.4m); size 38: 378yds ( 3.5m); size 40: 4yds (3.6m); size 42: 418yds (3.7m); size 44: 414yds (3.80m)Stretch lining, 54" (137cm) wide: 134yds (1.6m) for all sizes Interfacing

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

PreparationTrace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Note different grainlines formain fabric and lining on pieces 1 and 2. Trace pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Cut the pocket pieces ofmain fabric and lining on straight grain (see cutting layouts).

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown in cutting layouts and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Linen:1front with integrated yoke, cut 21pocket piece, cut 22back, cut 23upper sleeve, cut 24under sleeve, cut 25collar, cut 2 as a bias piece (see layout)6front facing, cut 27back facing, cut 1 on folda) 2 belt carriers, a total of 8" (20cm) long, and 158" (4cm) wide, including seam allowances b) tie belt, a total of: size 36: 71" (180cm); size 38: 7234" (185cm); sizes 40, 42: 75" (190cm); size 44: 7634" (195cm) long, and 314" (8cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Lining: 1 front, cut 2 to lining line 1 pocket, cut 22 back, cut 2 to lining line3 upper sleeve, cut 24 under sleeve, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on pattern layout. Fuse interfacing to undercollar piece. Also interface hem allowances.

Construction Q Stitch center back seam. Press seam

allowances open. Stitch back darts and press toward center. Stitch front darts, beginning exactly atmarked neck edge. Cut darts open to within 114" (3cm) from the point. Press darts open, pressing dart points flat.

Q Stitch integrated back yokes of front pieces to back. Press seam allowances toward yokes. Stitch darts in front facings. Stitch shoulder seams of facing. Press seam allowances open.

Q Notched collar and front edges: With right sides together, pin facing to jacket, easing in a little extra fullness at lapel corners. Stitch facing to front and lapel edges, as far as seam mark. Leave facing lying on jacket, right sides together, for time being. Stitch collar pieces together along outer edges, easing a little extra fullness onto top collar and beginning and ending stitching exactly at attachment edge seamline. Turn collar right-side out. Lay collar between jacket and facing. Stitch undercollar to neck edge of jacket. Stitch upper collar piece to facing. Press collar attachment seam allowances open. Turn facing to inside. Pin collar attachment seams together exactly. Turn back facing up and stitch seam allowances together, close to collar attachment seam. Turn facing down again.

Q Inseam pockets: With right sides together, pin pocket pieces to seam allowances of pocket opening edgespocket lining in front and linen pocket in back. Stitch linen pockets in place, alongmarked seamline. Stitch pocket lining pieces to seam allowances 14" (6mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces forward, trim evenly and stitch together.

Q Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances open.

Q At hem edge, unfold facings. Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place, leaving facing edges free.

Black pattern line, sheets B1-B2Pattern pieces 1 to 7Size 36 3333Size 38 4444Size 40 55Size 42 6666Size 44 7777 Cutting layouts

Crushed linen, 54" (137cm) wide

Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout, right sides together.

Lining, 54" (137cm) wide

Selvedges

Fold

Fold

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Selvedges

NZ_BS1311_102T

BS_067-100_Instructions_Fall_14_FINAL.indd 67 7/21/14 6:07 PM


68 burdastyle.com FALL 2014

103- 082014-USJacket !!!PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 50Finished back length: 19" (48cm)Sleeves: 6" (15cm) shorter than normal

Materials Tweed, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 134yds (1.6m) for all sizes Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: size 36: 118yd (1m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 114yds I1.1m) InterfacingNotions: 8 buttons; 2 flat inside buttons


PreparationTrace pieces 21-29 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Buttonholes and buttonmarkings on piece 21 are for size 36. For sizes 38 44,mark top buttonhole same distance from neck edge as for size 36. Bottom buttonhole is same for all sizes. Center other buttonhole exactly between.Mark new button positions accordingly.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Tweed:21front, cut 222side, cut 2

23back, cut 1 on a fold24sleeve front with yoke, cut 225sleeve back with yoke, cut 226under sleeve, cut 227collar, cut 2 on fold28front facing, cut 229back facing, cut 1 on folda) 2 front hem bands: size 36: 1114" (29cm); size 38: 12" (30.5cm); size 40: 1212" (31.5cm); size 42: 13" (33cm); size 44: 1312" (34cm) long; 1 back hem band, size 36: 1912" (49.5cm); size 38: 2012" (52cm); size 40: 2114" (54cm); size 42: 2238" (56.5cm); size 44: 2318" (58.5cm) long, each 314" (8cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) 2 sleeve bands: size 36: 13" (33cm); size 38: 1312" (34cm); size 40: 1358" (34.5cm); size 42: 1334" (35cm); size 44: 1414" (36cm) long, and 314" (8cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesLining: 21 front, cut 2 to lining line22 side, cut 223 back, cut 1 with 34" (2cm) center back ease pleat 24 sleeve front with yoke, cut 2 to lining line25 sleeve back with yoke, cut 2minus neck facing 26 under sleeve, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Interface outer half of waistband and outer half of each sleeve band.

Construction Q Stitch side pieces to fronts and back,

easing fronts from to . Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch under sleeves to front and back sleeve (seam numbers 3 and 4). Stitch center seam on back yoke. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch front yokes to fronts from neck edge to corner. Clip yoke seam allowances into corners. Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, from front corner to back corner (seam number 5),matching seammarks 6. Clip seam allowance of back yoke into corners. Stitch back yoke to back from corner to corner. Press seam allowances toward yokes and toward sleeves above underarm curves.

Q Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams. Stitch facing shoulder seams.

Q Gather lower sleeve edges tomatch sleeve bands. Stitch ends of each sleeve band together. With wrong sides

Q Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Q Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.

Q With right sides together, fold belt carrier strip lengthwise. Stitch 38" (1cm) from folded edge. Turn strip right-side out and cut into 2 equal length pieces. Turn ends of belt carriers under to a finished length of 234" (7cm). Stitch belt carriers to jacket asmarked.

Q Sew lining: On lining backs, stitch center back seam allowances together. Stitch darts and seams. Set in sleeve linings.

Q Line jacket; hem: With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge,matching yoke attachment seams to seammarks on back facing. With wrong sides together, lay lining in jacket, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn lining hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn edges of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to hem allowance. Lay extra length down and press.

Q With right sides together, fold tie belt lengthwise. Trim each end at an angle. Stitch edges together, leaving an opening for turning. Turn belt right-side out. Sew seam opening closed.

Green pattern line, sheets A1-A2Pattern pieces 21 to 29Size 36 AAAAASize 38 ===Size 40 CCCSize 42 67 67Size 44 EEEEE

Cutting layout Tweed, 60" (152.5cm) wide

Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.

Selvedges

Fold

NZ_BS1309_103T




103.1- 082014-USCoat !!!PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1k9sLFD

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 61Finished back length: 38" (97 cm)

MaterialsBoucl, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 36: 234 yds (2.5 m); sizes 38, 40: 278 yds (2.6 m); sizes 42, 44: 3 yds (2.65 m) Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40: 2 yds (1.8 m); sizes 42, 44: 258 yds (2.4 m)InterfacingNotions: 6 large sew-on snap fasteners


PreparationTrace pieces 1, 3, 4-6, 10, and 11 from pattern sheet. Trace front yoke with integrated sleeve up to band attachment line. Cut out all paper pieces.Snap fasteners marked on piece 10 are for size 36. For sizes 38 44, mark top snap same distance from neck edge as for size 36. Bottom snap is same for all sizes. Space other snaps evenly between.Front lining piece: Lay pieces 3 and 4 together; this creates a small space at side edge which will become a small pleat. See pattern layout.

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Boucl: 1front yoke with sleeve, cut 2 3upper front, cut 2 4lower front, cut 2 5back yoke with sleeve, cut 2 6back, cut 2

10front band with self-facing, cut 211back facing, cut 1 on folda) 2 pocket pieces, 638" 638"(16 16 cm)Lining: 1 front yoke with sleeve, cut 2 to lining line3, 4 upper and lower front, cut 2 to lining line5 back yoke with sleeve, cut 2 minus neck facing6 back, cut 2a) 2 pocket pieces, 638" 638" (16 16 cm) Interfacing:Cut from shaded areas on pattern layout. Also interface hem allowances.

Construction Q With right sides together, pin each

pocket lining piece to pocket opening edge of lower front piece. Stitch to seam allowance, 14" (6 mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces up and understitch close to attachment seams. With right sides together, lay each boucl pocket piece on upper fronts between markings. Stitch to seam allowances 316" (5 mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces down.

Q Stitch upper fronts to lower fronts, leaving pocket openings free. Press seam allowances open and press pocket pieces down. Trim pocket pieces evenly and stitch edges together.

Q Stitch center seams on back and back yoke. Press seam allowances open.

Q Yokes with integrated sleeves: Stitch each front yoke with sleeve to front piece, from seam number 6 to corner. Clip seam allowances of front yokes into corners. Stitch sleeve fronts to front armhole edges. Stitch back yoke with sleeves to back, from corner to corner. Clip seam allowance of yoke into corners. Stitch sleeve backs to back armhole edges. Press seam allowances of yoke attachment seams open. Press seam allowances of sleeve attachment seams toward sleeves.

Q Stitch side seams and lower sleeve seams as continuous seams. Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press seam allowances open.

Q Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Q Stitch front bands to fronts. Press seam allowances open.

Q Neck edge: Turn self-facings to outside and stitch to back facing. With right sides together, stitch facing to neck edge. Trim seam allowances diagonally across front

together, fold and press sleeve bands in half. Stitch sleeve band edges together to lower sleeve edges,matching sleeve band seams to lower sleeve seams. Press seam allowances up.

Q On hem band, stitch side seams. Stitch hem band to lower jacket edge. Press seam allowances open.

Q On lining back, baste ease pleat. Press pleat to one side and baste to upper and lower edges. Stitch lining seams. Gather lower edge of sleeve lining. With right sides together, stitch lining to inside jacket facing edge. Press seam allowances toward lining.

Q With right sides together, pin facing and lining to jacket. Fold hem band half to outside and stitch inside hem band edges to lower facing edges (not to lining), right sides together. Clip seam allowance of waistband 38" (1cm) from inside facing edge. Press seam allowances open toward front edge. Stitch along front waistband ends, front edges, and neck edges, up to seammark. Leave facing and lining lying on jacket, right sides together, for the time being.

Q With right sides together, stitch collar pieces along outer edges, beginning and ending exactly at seamline on attachment edge. Turn collar right-side out and press. Lay collar between jacket and facing. Stitch undercollar to neck edge of jacket and stitch top collar to facing. Press seam allowances of collar attachment seams open. Turn facing and lining to inside and turn hem band right side out. Pin collar attachment seams together. Reach between outer fabric and lining to grasp collar attachment seam allowances and pull them out. Stitch seam allowances together close to seams. Push collar attachment seams in place again. Lay inside hem band edge flat over attachment seam. Stitch from right side along attachment seam, catching inner edge.

Q Pull sleeve linings into jacket sleeves. At each sleeve seam, turn lining edge under and pin to sleeve band attachment seam with a single straight pin. Reach between outer fabric and lining to first pull out lower edges of one sleeve. Remove pin but hang on to edges. With right sides together, stitch lower edges of sleeve and lining together. From jacket right side, pull sleeve out and sleeve lining into jacket sleeve. Stitch lining of other sleeve in samemanner.

Q Turn open lining edge under and sew to waistband attachment seam.

Q Stitch buttonholes in right front. On left front, stitch top buttonhole for inside button. Stitch a buttonhole in each end of hem band, for inside button on the left. Lay jacket closed,matching center fronts. Sew buttons in place, tomatch buttonholes and asmarked.




lengthwise and stitch across bottom. Turn right-side out. Lay underlap under left opening edge and pin to facing. Stitch facing to underlap, close to zipper attachment seam. Lay opening closed again and topstitch to end, catching underlap.

Q Waistband and center back seam: Stitch outer waistband pieces to upper trouser edge. Leave right waistband end extending from center front. Stitch left waistband to underlap and leave remainder extending. Press seam allowances of attachment seams toward waistband pieces. With right sides together, lay inside waistband pieces on attached waistband pieces and stitch upper edges together. Turn inside waistband pieces up and understitch close to seam. Trim extending right waistband end 38" (1cm) before center front. Attach trouser hook to inside waistband piece 38" (1cm) from right waistband end. Stitch center back seam on trousers and waistband. Press seam allowances open from upper edge to beginning of crotch curve. Do not press seam allowances flat along curve. At front waistband ends, lay inside waistband on outside waistband and turn seam allowance on inside waistband edge up. Stitch across waistband ends. Turn waistband right-side out. Turn in underlap edges and sew together. Turn inside waistband edge under for 158" (4cm) long, and baste, then lay remaining edge flat over attachment seam. From trouser right side, stitch along attachment seam, catching inside waistband edge. Attach fastener bar to waistband, tomatch hook location. Stitch buttonhole in left waistband end for inside button.

Q Press hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.

104- 082014-USCoat !!!PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1lHaVGz

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 51Finished back length: 44" (112cm)

MaterialsTweed, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 318yds (2.8m); size 40: 314yds (2.85m);

103B- 082014-USTrousers !!PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1nwQ0bG

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 42Finished side length including waistband: 4134" (106cm)Waistband sits 38" (1cm) below natural waistlineLeg hem circumference: 2412" (62cm)

Materials Jacquard, 60" (152.5cm) wide: size 36: 178yds (1.65m); size 38, 40, 42, 44: 214yds (2m) Interfacing Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 36, 38, 40: 5" (12cm); sizes 42, 44: 6" (14cm) long; 1 trouser hook fastener; 1 flat inside button


PreparationTrace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Lengthen piece 21 as indicated. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching line at zipper opening ismarked for size 36. For sizes 38 44,mark stitching line same distance from center front as for size 36, noting length of opening.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Jacquard:21front trouser, cut 221 pocket, cut 4 22back trouser, cut 223waistband, cut 4a) left underlap: sizes 36, 38, 40: 5" (12.5cm); sizes 42, 44: 6" (14.5cm) long, and 3" (7cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesInterfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.

Construction Q Stitch back darts and press toward

center. Stitch forward side seams, leaving pocket openings free. Press seams open.

Q In-seam pockets: With right sides together, pin pocket pieces to seam allowances on inside of pocket opening edges. Stitch in place directly alongmarked seamlines. Above pocket openings, stitch pocket pieces close to seam. Press pocket pieces forward and stitch edges together. Baste upper pocket edges in place. At each end of each pocket opening, make a few stitches horizontally.

Q Stitch inside leg seams. Stitch center front seam from openingmark to inside leg seam.

Q Insert zipper: Press self-facings on opening edges to inside. On the right, stitch along center front and on left, stitch 316" (5mm) before center front. Topstitch close to right opening edge. Stitch zipper under left opening edge (underlap), close to teeth. Pin opening closed,matching center fronts. Stitch loose zipper tape to right facing, leaving trouser piece free. Baste facing in place. Topstitch opening from upper edge to 114" (3cm) before end asmarked. With right sides together, fold underlap piece

corners. At neck edge, turn facing up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn facing to inside and press edges.

Q Fold small pleat in each front lining piece and baste. Stitch lining seams.

Q Sew in lining; hem: With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining inside coat, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn lining edge under along hem edge and press fold lightly. Push upward in a shallow curve and pin to hem allowance. Sew facings and lining in place. Lay extra lining length down and press lightly. On each sleeve, turn lining edge under and hand-stitch to hem allowance. Lay extra length down and press.

Q Stitch front coat edges along lines of band attachment seams.

Q Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew top halves of snaps to right front facing as marked, not exiting needle on right fabric side. Lay coat closed, matching center fronts. Mark placement of bottom halves of snaps on left front band. Sew bottom halves of snaps in place. Close pocket openings with one snap each.




Q Inseam pockets: With right sides together, pin pocket pieces to seam allowances of pocket opening edges, pinning pocket lining pieces to fronts and tweed pocket pieces to side pieces. Stitch pocket pieces in place, directly alongmarked seamlines. Press pocket pieces forward and stitch edges together.

Q Stitch sides to back. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch under sleeves to front and back sleeves (seam numbers 3 and 4). Stitch center back yoke seam. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch front yokes to fronts, from neck edge to corner. Clip yoke seam allowances into corners. Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, from front corner to back corner (seam number 5),matching seammarks. Clip back yoke seam allowance into corners. Stitch back yoke to back, from corner to corner. Press seam allowances toward yokes and toward sleeves above underarm curve.

Q Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams. Stitch facing shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open.

Q Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Q With right sides together, pin facing to coat. Stitch along front and neck edges, up to seammark. Leave facing lying on coat, right sides together, for time being.

Q With right sides together, stitch outer collar edges, beginning and ending exactly at seamline on attachment edge. Turn collar right-side out and press. Lay collar between coat and facing. Stitch undercollar to coat neck edge and stitch top collar to facing. Press seam allowances open. Turn facing to inside. Press front edges. Pin collar attachment seams together. In back, turn facing up again and understitch close to collar attachment seam. Turn facing down.

Q At hem edge, unfold facing. Press hem allowance to inside, then turn down again.

Q On lining back, stitch ease pleat at top and bottom, each 2" (5cm) long, and baste between. Press pleat to one side. Stitch lining seams.

Q Line coat; hem: With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edges. With wrong sides together, lay lining inside coat, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn lining under along hem edge and press folded edge

sizes 42, 44: 338yds (3m) Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 214yds (2.05m); size 40: 212yds (2.2m); sizes 42, 44: 258yds (2.25m) Interfacing Notions: 8 buttons; 2 flat inside buttons


PreparationTrace pieces 21-29 from pattern sheet. Lengthen pieces 21, 23, and 28 as indicated. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all pattern pieces. Buttonholes and buttonmarkings on piece 21 are for size 36. For sizes 38 44,mark top buttonhole the same distance from neck edge as for size 36. Bottom buttonhole is at the same location for all sizes.Mark remaining buttonholes between.Mark new button positions accordingly.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Tweed:21front, cut 221 pocket, cut 222side, cut 223back, cut 1 on fold24sleeve front with yoke, cut 225sleeve back with yoke, cut 226under sleeve, cut 227collar, cut 2 on fold28front facing, cut 229back facing, cut 1 on foldLining: 21 front, cut 2 to lining line21 pocket, cut 222 side, cut 223 back, cut 1 with 34" (2cm) center back ease pleat 24 sleeve front with yoke, cut 2 to lining line 25 sleeve back with yoke, cut 2minus neck facing26 under sleeve, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout. Also interface hem allowances.

Construction Q Stitch side pieces to fronts, easing

fronts from to . Leave pocket openings free. Press seam allowances open.

104B- 082014-USDress !!!PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1tqUSCR

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 43Finished length from waist: 2534" (65cm)

Materials Washed crpe satin, 54" (137 cm): sizes 36, 38, 40: 3yds (2.7m); sizes 42, 44: 318yds (2.75m)InterfacingNotions: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long


PreparationTrace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Tape pieces 1 and 1a together as marked and lengthen as indicated. Lengthen piece 2 as indicated. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Washed crpe satin: 1front with sleeves, cut 12back with sleeve, cut 23side, cut 24lower sleeve, cut 25back neck facing, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout. On front piece, fuse a strip 1234" (32 cm) long and 1" (2.5 cm) wide to wrong side of fabric, over pleat stitching line, up to pleat fold. Fuse small pieces of interfacing to wrong side of fabric, over corners

lightly. Push upward in a shallow curve and pin to coat hem allowance. Sew facings and lining in place. Lay extra length of lining down and press lightly. Turn edges of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to hem allowances. Lay extra length of sleeve linings down and press.

Q Stitch buttonholes in right front. On left front, stitch top and bottom buttonholes for inside buttons. Sew buttons in place, tomatch buttonholes asmarked.




Materials Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 138yds (1.2m) for all sizes InterfacingNotions: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22cm) long


PreparationTrace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Trace the facing from pieces 1 and 2 as separate pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Stretch jersey:1right front skirt, cut 11 right side front facing, cut 12left front skirt, cut 12 left side front facing, cut 13back skirt, cut 24front facing, cut 1 on fold5back facing, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction Q Stitch front and back darts. Press darts

toward centers.

Q With right sides together, pin side front facings to corresponding front skirt panels. Beginning at side seam edge, stitch alongmarked seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn facings over seam allowances and understitch close to seams. Turn facings to inside and press edges. Baste facings to side seam edges.

Q With wrong side facing right side andmatching center fronts, lay right skirt front over left skirt front. Baste together along upper and side edges.

Q Sew invisible zipper at center back opening (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from lower edge to zipper. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch side seams on skirt and facing.

Q Upper skirt edge: With right sides together, pin facing to upper skirt edge. At zipper opening, turn facing ends back 316" (5mm) before opening edge, and pin to upper edge. Turn seam allowances on skirt opening edges to outside and pin to upper skirt edge, over facing. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn seam allowances at

105A- 082014-USSkirt !!PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 50Finished length: 2334" (60cm)

between front/back and sleeves. Also fuse strips 34" (2 cm) wide to wrong side of zipper opening edges.

Construction Q On front, lay pleat in direction of arrow

and baste. Press pleat fold. Topstitch as marked. Remove basting.

Q Side pieces and lower sleeve pieces: Stitch side pieces to front piece, from corner (seam number 1) and to back pieces, from corners (seam number 2). Clip seam allowances of front and back into corners. Stitch lower sleeve pieces to integrated sleeves of front and back (seam numbers 3 and 4). Press seams open. Stitch lower sleeve pieces to armhole edges of side pieces, from corner to corner, matching seam marks.

Q With right sides together, stitch back neck facings to neck edges of back pieces. Trim seam allowances. Turn facings up and understitch close to seams. Turn facings to inside. Press edges. Baste facing ends in place.

Q Sew invisible zipper to center back opening edges (see instructions on page 66). Begin at neck edge and leave ends of zipper tapes extending at the top. Stitch center back seam from lower edge to zipper. Turn upper ends of zipper tapes under and sew to neck edge, together with seam allowances.

Q Turn the dress wrong side out. On front self facing, finish inside edge. With right sides together, pin back shoulder edges to front shoulder edges. Lay self-facing of front over the back and pin side facing ends to shoulder edges. Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press seam allowances forward. Turn dress right-side out. Turn front facing to inside.

Q Press hem allowances on dress and sleeves to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Red pattern line, sheets B1-B2Pattern pieces 1 to 5Size 34 2222Size 36 3333Size 38 4444Size 40 55Size 42 6666Size 44 7777

Cut from a single layer of fabric, right side up. Lay the asymmetric front skirt pieces on the right side of the fabric, with printed pattern side up. Lay the side facings on the right side of the fabric with their printed side down. Cut right and left pieces as opposites.

Cutting layoutStretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide

Selvedge

Selvedge

opening edges to inside. Turn facing up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn facing to inside, and hand-stitch to zipper tapes and seams.

Q At hem edge, unfold facings. Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn facings to inside again. Loosely hand-stitch inside facing edges in place. Sew facings to hem.

NZ_BS1309_105AT




106- 082014-USSkirt !!PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 52Finished length: 2334" (60cm)

MaterialsSilk satin, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 158yds (1.4m) for all sizes InterfacingNotions: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22cm) long


PreparationTrace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Trace the facing from piece 2 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Silk satin:1right front skirt, cut 12left front skirt, cut 12 left side front facing, cut 13back skirt, cut 24front facing, cut 1 on fold5back facing, cut 26 godet, cut 1 on foldInterfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.


toward centers.

Q With right sides together, pin side front facing to left front skirt panel. Beginning at side seam edge, stitch alongmarked seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing over seam allowances and understitch close to seam. Turn facing to inside and baste to side seam edge. Press faced edge.

Q With right sides together, fold godet on foldline. Stitch lower edges together. Trim seam allowances. Turn godet right-side out. Press lower edge but do not press folded edge. Baste open edges together. Stitch godet to right skirt front, from seam number 2 (side seam allowance and hem

allowance of skirt piece extend). Trim godet attachment seam allowances to 14" (6mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press away from godet. With wrong side facing right side, lay right skirt front over left skirt frontmatching center fronts. Baste together along upper and side edges.

Q Sew invisible zipper at center back opening (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from lower edge

Red pattern line, sheets B1-B2Pattern pieces 1 to 6Size 34 2222Size 36 3333Size 38 4444Size 40 55Size 42 6666Size 44 7777

Cut from a single layer of fabric, right side up. Lay the asymmetric front skirt pieces on the right side of the fabric, with printed pattern side facing up. Lay the side facing on the right side of the fabric printed side down. Cut right and left pieces as opposites.

Cutting layoutSilk satin, 60" (152.5cm) wide

Selvedge

Selvedge

NZ_BS1309_106T

to zipper. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch side seams, leaving godet free at left side seam. Stitch side seams of facing. Press seam allowances open.

Q Upper skirt edge: With right sides together, pin facing to upper skirt edge. At zipper opening, turn facing ends back 316" (5mm) before opening edge, and pin to upper edge. Turn seam allowances on skirt opening edges to outside and pin to upper skirt edge, over facing. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn seam allowances at opening edges to inside. Turn facing up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn facing to inside, and hand-stitch to zipper tapes and seams.

Q At hem edge, unfold facing. Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. At godet attachment seam, turn edge under and sew in place. Turn facing to inside again and sew in place over hem. Topstitch 14" (6mm) from faced edge.

108- 082014-USTop !"PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 57Finished back length: 3312" (85cm)Sleeves: 114" (3cm) longer than normal

Materials Fine stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide, with a pattern repeat of 36" (90cm): 3 58yds (3.3m) for all sizesAlternative: Solid stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 318yds (2.75m) for all sizesNotions: Fusible bias stay tape; twin sewingmachine needle


PreparationTrace pieces 21-23, and 25 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 38" (1cm); hem and sleeve hems: 158" (4cm)




109- 082014-USBustier !!"PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 56Finished length from waist: 434" (12cm)

Extra pattern, shaded pinkSheet A1-A2, pieces 1 to 6Size 34 2222Size 36 3333Size 38 4444Size 40 55Size 42 6666Size 44 7777

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Fine stretch jersey: 21center front, cut 1 on fold22 center back, cut 1 on fold23side piece with sleeve, cut 225collar, cut 1 on foldFusible bias stay tape:Fuse to back shoulder seam edges.

ConstructionNote: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or with a serger. Stitch hems with a twinmachine needle to keep them flexible.

Q Front and back section seams: With right sides together, lay side pieces with sleeve onto center front. Pin front section seam from seam number 1 to hem edge. Stitch seams. Pin remaining edges of side and sleeve pieces to side edges of center back (seam number 2). Stitch seams. Neaten edges together and press toward centers.

Q Shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams: With right sides together, lay center

Cutting layoutsStretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide with pattern repeat

Selvedge

Selvedge

without pattern repeat

Cut from a single layer of fabric, right side up. Cut right and left pieces as opposites.match patterns if applicable.

Selvedge

SelvedgeNZ_BS1310_109T

Red pattern line, sheets C1-C2Pattern pieces 21 to 23 and 25Size 36 AAAAASize 38 ===Size 40 CCCSize 42 67 67Size 44 EEEEE

NZ_BS1310_108T

front on center back, folding sleeves lengthwise. Stitch shoulder and sleeve as continuous seam beginning atmarked sleeve hem line, angle stitching to outer edge. Neaten seam allowances together and press toward back.

Q Stitch center back seam on collar. Press seam allowances open. With wrong sides together, fold collar on foldline. Stitch attachment edges of collar together to neck edge. Trim seam allowances to 14" (6mm), neaten edges together, and press toward collar.

Q Turn hem allowances on top and sleeves to wrong side. From right side, use twinmachine needle to stitch hems 114" (3cm) from lower edges.




111- 082014-USTop !"PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1jbAOfZ

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 30Finished back length of top: 2834" (73cm)Shrug sleeves: 3" (7cm) longer than normal

MaterialsFine jersey for top and shrug (made in one fabric), 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 218yds (1.9cm); sizes 40, 42: 214yds (2m) Fine jersey for the top, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 1yd (.9m); sizes 40, 42: 118yd (.95m)Fine jersey for shrug, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 118yd (1m); sizes 40, 42: 114yds (1.05m)Notions: Fusible stay tape, twin sewing machine needle



Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 58" (1.5cm); hem and sleeve hems: 2" (5cm)

MaterialsStretch gabardine, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 1yd (.9m) for all sizesLining, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 34, 36: 1yd (.9m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 118yd (1m)InterfacingNotions: Boning, 12" (1.3cm) wide: 12yd (.4m); hook-and-eye tape: 12yd (.4m); elastic, 14" (6 mm) wide: sizes 34, 36: 34" (.85m); size 38: 1yd (.9m); sizes 40, 42: 40" (1m); size 44: 42" (1.05m); glue stick



Lining, 54" (137cm) wide, Sizes 38 44

Cutting layouts

Gabardine, 60" (152.5cm) wide, Sizes 34 44

Lining, 54" (137cm)cm wide, Sizes 34, 36BS1310_109WS_Z

Selvedges

Fold

BS1310_109WS_Z

Fold

Selvedges

BS1310_109WS_Z

Selvedges

Fold

Fold

Selvedges Selvedges

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Stretch gabardine:1 center front, cut 22 side front, cut 23 center back cut 24 side back, cut 25 front peplum, cut 26 back peplum, cut 2Lining and interfacing:Cut same as for gabardine. Fuse interfacing to corresponding gabardine pieces.

ConstructionSee detailed instructions for style 109-082014-US on Sew This! on page 106 of themagazine.

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Top: 21front, cut 1 on fold22back, cut 1 on folda) back neck edge facing strip, size 34: 838" (21cm); sizes 36, 38: 834" (22cm); sizes 40, 42: 918" (23cm) long, and 158" (4cm) wide, including seam allowances Shrug: 23back with integrated sleeve, cut 2Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of armhole edges and back neck edge of top, and to wrong side of neck and lower edges of shrug.

ConstructionNote: Stitch seams on stretch fabrics with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or with a serger. Stitch hems with a twin sewingmachine needle to keep them flexible.

Top Q With wrong sides together, fold and

press facing strip for back neck edge lengthwise. Pin folded facing strip to back neck edge so that folded edge lies on garment piece 38" (1cm) past seamline. Stitch along neck edge seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing strip to inside and press edge. Topstitch 14" (6mm) from neck edge.

Q With right sides together, baste back shoulder edges to front shoulder edges. Turn self-facing of front over back on foldline, and pin to shoulder edges. Stitch shoulder seams. Pull back out of front. Lay facing on front. Press shoulder seams, but do not press neck edge fold. Baste facing to armhole edges.

Q On each armhole edge, press seam allowance to inside and turn edge under. From right side, use twin needle to stitch 14" (6mm) from armhole edge.

Q Stitch side seams. Trim seam allowances, neaten together, and press toward back. Hand-stitch top ends of seam allowances in place.

Q Fold hem allowance to inside and turn edge under. From right side, use twin needle to stitch 1" (2.5cm) from lower edge.

Shrug Q Stitch center back seam. Trim seam

allowances, neaten together and press to one side.




112- 082014-USDress !!!PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1tqTfoG


MaterialsRayon challis, 60" (152.5cm) wide: size 36: 212yds (2.2m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 234yds (2.5m)InterfacingNotions: Fusible bias stay tape; elastic, 34" (1cm) wide: size 36: 12yd (.4m); sizes 38, 40 ,42, 44: 58yd (.5m); 3 small buttons


PreparationTrace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Tape pieces 1 and 1A together asmarked. Cut out all paper pieces. Loopmarking on piece 1 is for size 36. For other sizes,movemarking same distance from neck edge as for size 36.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 58" (1.5cm); skirt attachment seam: 34" (2cm); hem: 58" (1.5cm); sleeve hems: 158" (4cm)

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Rayon challis:1front, cut 1 on fold2side front, cut 23upper back, cut 24lower back, cut 2

111.1- 082014-USJacket !!PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1gUV2R6

Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44on page 49Finished back length: 35" (88 cm)

Materials Sweater knit, 54" (137 cm) wide: size 34/36: 318 yds (2.8 m); sizes 38/40 and 42/44: 314 yds (2.9 m) InterfacingNotions: Fusible bias stay tape



CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Sweater knit:21front, cut 222back, cut 1 on fold23sleeve, cut 224front band, cut 425back neck band, cut 2 on fold26sleeve band, cut 227pocket, cut 2a) hem band: size 34/36: 41" (104 cm); size 38/40: 4414" (112 cm); size 42/44: 4714" (120 cm) long, and 312" (9 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) 2 sleeve cuff bands: size 34/36: 712" (19 cm); size 38/40: 8" (20 cm); size 42/44: 838" (21 cm) long, and 8" (20 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances c) 2 belt carriers, a total of 634" (17 cm)

long, and 158" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances d) tie belt, a total of: size 34/36: 61" (155 cm); size 38/40: 65" (165 cm); size 42/44: 69" (175 cm) long, and 312" (9 cm) wide, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on pattern layout. Interface outer band pieces. Fuse bias stay tape to wrong side of front shoulder edges.

Construction Q Stitch shoulder seams on jacket, on

interfaced band, and on un-interfaced band. Press seams open.

Q Stitch sleeve band pieces to sleeves (seam number 4). Neaten seam allowances together and press toward bands. Stitch sleeve bands to armhole edges. Press seam allowances toward bands.

Q Stitch side seams and lower sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press seam allowances toward back.

Q Wrong sides together, fold band in half lengthwise and press. Stitch hem band edges together to lower edge of fronts and back, stretching slightly to match. Press seam allowances up.

Q Stitch interfaced outer band to hem band, fronts, and back. Match seam mark on band to hem band attachment seam. Press allowances of hem band toward band. Above hem band, press seam allowances open, tapering allowance of front as you press. With right sides together, lay inside band on attached band. Stitch along front and neck edges. Stitch across bottom band ends. Trim seam allowances. Turn band right-side out. Lay inside band edge flat over attachment seam and baste in place. At hem band, turn inside band edge under and hand-stitch in place (taper seam allowance as you press to inside). From jacket right side, stitch along attachment seam, catching inner band edge.

Q Stitch seam on each sleeve band. Wrong sides together, fold sleeve band in half and press. Stitch sleeve band edges together to lower sleeve edge, stretching sleeve band to fit. Press seam allowances up.

Q Patch pockets: Press self-facing on each pocket upper edge to wrong side. Loosely hand-stitch inside facing edge in place. Press seam allowances on side and lower edges to inside. Pin pockets to jacket at placement lines and hand-stitch in place.

Q Belt carriers: With right sides together, fold strip for belt carriers lengthwise. Stitch

Q Press seam allowances on neck and lower edges to inside and turn edges under. From right side, use twin needle to stitch 14" (6mm) from each edge.

Q Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 3).

Q Press sleeve hem allowances to inside, turn in, and stitch in place using twin needle.

38" (1 cm) from folded edge. Turn right-side out. Cut into 2 equal lengths. Pin belt carriers to jacket as marked, turn in ends, and sew in place.

Q Fold tie belt lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch edges together, leaving an opening for turning. Turn right-side out. Sew opening closed.




5flounce, cut 26sleeve, cut 27front facing, cut 1 on fold8back facing, cut 1 on folda) bias strip for 3 loops: 6" (15cm) long, and 34" (2cm) wide, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction Q Stitch center seams on upper and lower

back pieces. Press seam allowances open.

Q On front and upper back pieces, cut along center of upper darts to 34" (2cm) before point. Gather lower dart edges between asterisks. Stitch darts. Trim dart seam allowances to 14" (6mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press up.

Q Stitch shoulder seams on dress bodice and facing. Press seams open.

Q With right sides together, fold bias strip for loops lengthwise. Stitch 18" (3mm) from folded edge. Turn right-side out. Do not press fabric tube flat. Cut fabric tube into 3 equal lengths and form loops.

Q Front slit and neck edge: With right sides together, pin facing to neck edge over marked center front slit. From wrong side, stitch closely around marked slit, on right side of slit leaving seam open between neck edge and seam mark. Stitch across bottom of slit, then continue stitching along marked neck edge. Slash slit between stitching lines and clip diagonally into bottom corners. On neck edge, trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. On right slit edge, lay loop between front and facing. Slide ends of loop through opening and pin to slit edge; loop size must match button. Sew seam opening closed. Turn facing to inside and press edges. Hand-stitch inside facing edge to seams.

Q Stitch upper back to front (seam number 2). Stitch lower back to side fronts (seam number 3).

Q Stitch center back flounce seam. Stitch flounce to lower edge of side fronts and lower back (seam number 4). Press seam allowances up.

Q On front, cut along center of small dart at corner between vertical and horizontal section seams, to 114" (3cm) before point. Stitch side fronts to front, from seam number 5 to seammark. Clip front seam allowance at seammark. Stitch flounce to front below seammark. Press seam allowances open.

Q Gather lower edge of front and upper back between asterisks. Stitch horizontal section seam on each side stitching from center back toward the front, then continue stitching to stitch small darts in front. Press seam allowances down and stitch as marked to form elastic casings. Cut elastic into 2 equal pieces. Insert elastic into casings and stitch ends in place, for a finished length of: size 36: 718" (18cm); size 38: 712" (19cm); size 40: 8" (20cm); size 42: 838" (21cm); size 44: 834" (22cm).

Q Finish hem edge: Press hem allowance to wrong side. From fabric right side, stitch along folded edge with a short, closely spaced zigzag. On inside, carefully trim hem allowance close to stitching.

Q Sleeve with sleeve vents: Baste loops to front sleeve vent edges asmarked. Turn sleeve hem allowances to outside and stitch to vent edges, exactly tomarked end of vent. Turn hem allowance upper edge back and pin. Stitch sleeve seam from upper edge to slitmark. Turn hem allowance to inside, press, and hand-stitch in place.

Q Set in sleeves, gathering sleeve caps.

113- 082014-USTop !PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 48Finished back length: 24" (60cm)Sleeves: 158" (4cm) longer than normal

Materials Knit lace, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40: 158yds (1.4m) sizes 42, 44: 134yds (1.45m) Small piece of lightweight woven fabric for bias strips, 14" 16" (35 40cm) Notions: Twin sewingmachine needle



Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown

Cutting layout Knit lace, 60" (152.5cm) wide

Fold fabric as shown in the cutting layoutright sides together on a double layer; right side up on a single layer. Cut right and left sleeves as opposites.

Selvedge

Selvedge

Fold

Blue pattern line, sheets D1-D2Pattern pieces 1 and 2Size 36 3333Size 38 4444Size 40 55Size 42 6666Size 44 7777

NZ_1309_113T

and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Knit lace:1front and back, cut 1 on fold 2sleeve, cut 2Woven fabric:Bias strip for neck edge, a total of: size 36: 2434" (63cm); size 38: 2514" (64cm); size 40: 2534" (65cm); size 42: 26" (66cm); size 44: 2612" (67cm) long, and 158" (4cm) wide, including seam allowances




ConstructionNote: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or with a serger. Stitch hem allowances with a twinmachine needle to keep them flexible.

Q Stitch sleeves to front and back (seam number 1). Trim seam allowances to 14" (6mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press toward sleeves.

Q Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press seam allowances toward back.

Q Neck edge: Stitch bias strips together to form one long strip. With wrong sides together, fold and press bias strip lengthwise. Unfold bias strip again. Stitch ends together to a circumference of: size 36: 2334" (60cm); size 38: 24" (61cm); size 40: 2412" (62cm); size 42: 2434" (63cm); size 44: 2514" (64cm). Fold strip again. Pin folded bias strip to neck edge so that folded edge of strip lies on garment piece 38" (1cm) past seamline. Stitch alongmarked seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias strip to inside. Topstitch 14" (6mm) from neck edge.

Q Press hem allowances on top and sleeves to inside. From right side, use twin needle to stitch 114" (3cm) from lower edges of top and sleeves.

114- 082014-USBlouse !!"PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1olHCgw

Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44on page 58Finished back length: 3312" (85cm)

Materials Challis, 54" (137cm) wide: size 34/36: 214yd (2.05m); size 38/40: 238yd (2.1m); size 42/44: 258yds (2.3m) InterfacingNotions: 9 small flat buttons


PreparationTrace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet.

Buttonholes on piece 1 aremarked for size 34/36. For sizes 38/40 and 42/44,mark top buttonhole same distance from neck edge as for size 34/36. Bottom buttonhole is same for all sizes. Space other buttonholes evenly between.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 58" (1.5cm); sleeve vent edges: 114" (3cm); hem: 58" (1.5cm); no seam allowance on vertical edge of front self-facing

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Challis:1front, cut 22back, cut 1 on fold3yoke, cut 24sleeve front, cut 25sleeve back, cut 26collar, cut 2 on fold7collar stand, cut 2 on folda) 2 cuffs: size 34/36: 11" (27.5cm); size 38/40, 42/44: 1114" (29.5cm) long, and 434" (12cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesInterfacing:Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction Q For the inverted pleat, fold center back

right sides together. Stitch pleat lines together to arrowmark. Unfold back again. Press pleat centered over seam. Baste pleat to upper edge. Topstitch each side of pleat seam.

Q Yokes: Press yoke attachment seam allowances to inside. Lay turned-in yoke edges on front attachment edges (seam number 1) and back (seam number 2), and pin to seam allowances. Stitch yoke edges in place 316" (5mm) from edge.

Q Turn hem allowances on front and back pieces to inside, turn in edges, press, and stitch.

Q Turn in self-facing on each front foldline and press. Stitch buttonholes in right self-facing. Lay folded facings to inside and press. Baste to neck edge and sew to hem edge. Topstitch front edges asmarked.

Q Collar with collar stand: With right sides together, stitch collar pieces together along outer edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn collar right-side out and press. With right sides together, lay collar stands with collar in between. Stitch along front and upper collar stand edges, beginning and

114A- 082014-USDress !!PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET


Materials Rayon challis, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 34, 36: 134yds (1.55m); size 38, 40: 178yds (1.75m); size 42: 2yds (1.8m)



ending in front, exactly at seamline on attachment edge. Turn collar stand right-side out. Stitch outer collar stand piece to blouse neck edge. Press seam allowances toward collar stand. Turn in inside collar stand piece and baste to attachment seam. Topstitch collar stand close to all edges.

Q Sleeves: Stitch back sleeve seams above slitmark. Press seam and vent allowances toward sleeve fronts. At back vent underlap edges, press seam allowances to inside. At front vent edges and back underlap edges, turn seam allowance edges under to 58" (1.5cm) wide and stitch. Stitch across top of vent, catching underlap. Fold pleat in lower edge of each sleeve and baste.

Q Stitch sleeves to armhole edges. Neaten edges together and press toward sleeves.

Q Stitch side seams and lower sleeve seams as continuous seams. Trim seam allowances, neaten edges together, and press toward back.

Q Cuffs: Stitch each cuff to lower sleeve edge. Press seam allowances of attachment seam and of other long cuff edge toward cuff. With right sides together, fold cuff lengthwise. Stitch across ends. Turn right-side out. Baste inside edge in place. Topstitch cuff close to all edges and also 38" (1cm) from attachment seam.

Q Stitch one buttonhole in right end of collar stand and in front end of each cuff.




Blue pattern line, sheets A1-A2Pattern pieces 21 and 22Size 34 AAAAASize 36 ===Size 38 CCCSize 40 67 67Size 42 EEEEE

Cutting layoutRayon challis, 60" (152.5cm) wide

Cut from a single layer of fabric, right side up.

Selvedge

Selvedge

NZ_BS1309_114AT

Pleats on piece 21 aremarked for size 34. For other sizes,mark pleats accordingly based on seammarks.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 58" (1.5cm); hem: 114" (3cm)

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Rayon challis:21front, cut as 1 bias piece (see layout) 22back, cut as 1 bias piece (see layout) a) 2 bias-cut straps: size 34: 1412" (37cm); size 36: 15" (38cm); size 38: 1512" (39cm); size 40: 1534" (40cm); size 42: 1614" (41cm) long, and 158" (4cm) wide, including seam allowancesb) bias strip for neck edge: size 34: 3734" (96cm); size 36: 3912" (100cm); size 38: 4034" (103cm); size 40: 4134" (106cm); size 42: 4312" (110cm) long, and 114" (3cm) wide, including seam allowances

Construction Q On front piece, cut along each dart

center to 114" (3cm) before point. Lay pleats in direction of arrows and baste to dart edges. Stitch darts. Trim dart allowances to 14" (6mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press toward center.

Q Stitch side seams as French seams: Lay fabric pieces wrong sides together. Stitch seam allowances together 14" (6mm) from edge. Press seam allowances open. Lay pieces right sides together with the seam exactly along fold. Stitch 38" (1cm) from folded edge, alongmarked seamline. Press seam allowances to one side.

Q With right sides together, fold straps lengthwise. Stitch 316" (5mm) from folded edge. Turn straps right-side out and press. Baste straps to upper front edge, between seammarks.

Q Face the neck edge: With wrong sides together, fold and press neck edge bias strip in half lengthwise. Pin folded bias strip to neck edge so that folded edge of strip lies on garment piece 38" (1cm) past seamline. Begin at one side seam and turn end of strip under. At corners of neck edge,make small folds in strip. Stitch bias strip in place. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Clip seam allowances at center front. Turn bias strip to inside. Topstitch 14" (6mm) from neck edge.

Q Pin back strap ends under upper back edge. Try on dress to determine correct strap length and hand-stitch ends in place.

Q Turn hem allowance to inside, press under half the width and stitch.

116- 082014-USCoat !!"PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET


MaterialsBrushed wool fabric, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40, 42: 338yds (3m); size 44: 358yds (3.3m) Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 218yds (1.9cm); sizes 40, 42: 214yds (2.05m); size 44: 238yds (2.1m)InterfacingNotions: 2 large sew-on snap fasteners


Black pattern line, sheets C1-C2 and D1-D2Pattern pieces 21 to 24Size 36 AAAAASize 38 ===Size 40 CCCSize 42 67 67Size 44 EEEEE

NZ_BS1311_116T




116A- 082014-USJacket !!"PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1phDONj


MaterialsMatelass, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 238yds (2.1m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 212yds (2.2m) Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: size 36: 112yds (1.3m); sizes 38, 40: 158yds (1.35m); sizes 42, 44: 134yds (1.60m) InterfacingNotions: Fusible fleece; 2 large sew-on snap fasteners

Note: Tomake both jacket style 116A-082014-US and skirt style 118-082014-US in the same fabric (as shown in photo), you will need: sizes 36, 38: 314yds (2.9m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 338yds (3m) ofmatelass. You will also need: size 36: 214yds (2m); sizes 38, 40: 238yds (2.05m); size 42: 258yds (2.25m); size 44: 338yds (3m) of 54" (137cm) wide lining.

PreparationTrace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Trace pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece. Trace front facing from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece, also tracing snap fastener markings. Cut out all paper pattern pieces.

ending exactly at sleeve and side seamlines.

Q Stitch sleeve darts. Press darts open, pressing dart points flat.

Q Stitch side seams, leaving seam allowances of sleeve attachment free and pockets open. Stitch sleeve seams, leaving seam allowances of attachment free. Press seam allowances open.

Q Inseam pockets: With right sides together, pin pocket pieces to seam allowances of pocket opening edgespocket lining pieces in front and pocket pieces ofmain fabric in back. Stitch wool pockets in place, directly alongmarked seamline. Stitch lining pockets to seam allowances 14" (6mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces forward, trim evenly and stitch together.

Q Press hem allowances on coat and sleeves to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Q Neck edge: Turn front self-facings to outside and stitch to back facing. With right sides together, stitch facing to neck edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn facing to inside and press edges.

Q Stitch lining darts and seams. Turn lining hem allowance to wrong side, turn raw edge under, and hand-stitch so that lining is 34" (2cm) shorter than coat.

PreparationTrace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.Upper snap fastenermarking on piece 21 is for size 36. For other sizes,move top snap up same distance from neck edge. Bottom snap location is same for all sizes.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Brushed wool:21front, cut 221 pocket, cut 222back, cut 223sleeve, cut 224back facing, cut 1 on foldLining:21 front, cut 2 to lining line21 pocket, cut 222 back, cut 2 to lining line23 sleeve, cut 2 to lining lineInterfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction Q Stitch center back seam. Press seam

allowances open.

Q Stitch sleeves to front and back pieces (seam numbers 2 and 4), beginning and

Fold fabric as shown in the cutting layoutright sides together on a double layer; right side up on a single layer. Cut right and left fronts as opposites. Note direction of nap.

Cutting layoutsBrushed wool, 54" (137cm) wideSizes 36 42Fold

Selvedges Nap

Size 44Fold

Selvedges Nap

Q With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining in coat, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn edges of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to hem allowance. Lay extra length of lining down and press. Sew facings over coat hem.

Q Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew upper snap halves to right front facing asmarked, taking even stitches and exiting needle on right fabric side. Lay coat closed,matching center fronts.Mark positions of lower snap halves on left front. Sew lower snap halves in place asmarked.




Snap fasteners marked on piece 1 (front facing) are for size 36. For the other sizes, move markings according to size lines.

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Matelass:1front, cut 21 front facing, cut 21 pocket, cut 22back, cut 1 on fold3sleeve, cut 24neck band, cut 45back facing, cut 1 on folda) tie belt, a total of: size 36: 63" (160cm); size 38: 65" (165cm); size 40: 67" (170cm); size 42: 69" (175cm); size 44: 71" (180cm) long, and 3" (7cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesLining: 1 front, cut 2,minus width of facing 1 pocket, cut 22 back, cut 1,minus width of facing and with 34" (2cm) center back ease pleat3 sleeve, cut 2 Interfacing:Cut from shaded area on cutting layout. Interface inside neck band pieces and hem allowances. Fuse fleece to wrong side of outer neck band pieces.


Construction Q Stitch shoulder seams on jacket and

facings. Press seams open.

Q Stitch center back seams on neck bands. Stitch outer neck band unit to neck edge of jacket, clipping seam allowance of fronts into corners to do so. Stitch inside neck band to facing, clipping facing allowances into corners. Press seam allowances away from neck bands.

Q With right sides together, pin facing to jacket, and pin band edges together. Stitch along front edges and band edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing to inside and press edges. Pin band attachment seams together exactly. Turn facing forward/up again and stitch seam allowances together, close to band attachment seam. Lay facing on jacket again.

Q Stitch each sleeve to horizontal front and back armhole edges, from side seam edge to corner. Clip seam allowances of fronts and back into corners. Stitch sleeves

to armhole edges, from corner to corner. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as continuous seams, leaving pocket openings free. Along curves, clip seam allowances several times. Press seam allowances open.

Q In-seam pockets: With right sides together, pin pockets to pocket opening seam allowance edges pocket lining in front andmatelass pockets in back. Stitch pockets in place, directly alongmarked seamlines. Press pockets forward and stitch edges together.

Q At hem edge, unfold facings. Press hem allowance to inside and then turn down again. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Q On back lining, baste ease pleat at top and bottom, each 2" (5cm) long, and baste between. Press pleat to one side. Stitch lining seams.

Q Sew lining in place; hem jacket: Right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining inside jacket, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn lining edge under along hem edge. Press folded edge lightly, push up in a shallow curve, and pin to hem allowance. Hand-stitch facings and lining in place. Lay extra length of lining down and press lightly. Turn edge of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to hem allowances. Lay extra length of lining down and press.

Q Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew upper snap halves to right front facing asmarked, taking even stitches and exiting needle on right fabric side. Lay jacket closed,matching center fronts. Sew lower snap halves to left front tomatch.

Q With right sides together, fold tie belt lengthwise. Stitch edges together, leaving an opening for turning. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Turn belt right-side out. Press edges. Sew opening closed.

117- 082014-USJacket !!!PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 26Finished back length: 2012" (52cm)Sleeves: 312" (9cm) longer than normal

MaterialsNote: Both sides of the ponte knit show.Ponte knit, 60" (152.5cm): 138yds (1.2m) for all sizes Stretch nappa leather for sleeves and bands. Tomake the jacket, you will need 2 leather skins with a total of 8 sq. ft. (1 sq. ft. = 30 30cm). Alternative: Stretch imitation leather, 54" (137cm) wide: 1yd (.9m) for all sizesStretch lining, 54" (137cm) wide, for the sleeves: 78yd (.8m) for all sizesNotions: Fusible bias stay tape; pre-folded satin bias tape, 34" (2cm) wide: size 34: 1yd (.9m); sizes 36, 38: 118yd (1m); sizes 40, 42: 114yds (1.1m); 1 two-way separating zipper, sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 20" (50cm), size 44: 22" (55cm) long; 2 large sew-on snap fasteners; textile glue; glue stick

Notes on leather (or imitation leather): We recommend that you firstmake the garment from inexpensive cotton fabric. Transfer any required alterations to the paper pattern before cutting out the leather. Avoid basting leather and ripping seams since the needle holes left are permanent. Press leather from the wrong side (cover with a pressing cloth), at amoderate temperature and without steam. Test-iron a scrap of the leather first.



Seam and hem allowancesCut leather bands without seam allowances.

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:




Ponte knit: 1center front with collar, cut 2 2side front, cut 2 3center back, cut 1 on fold 4side back, cut 2 5center front peplum, cut 4 6side front peplum, cut 4 7center back peplum, cut 2 on fold 8side back peplum, cut 4Stretch nappa leather: 9upper sleeve, cut 210under sleeve, cut 2a) 4 front bands: size 34: 2634" (68cm); size 36: 27" (68.5cm); size 38: 2712" (69.5cm); size 40: 2734" (70cm); size 42: 28" (71cm) long, and 34" (2cm) wide b) 2 collar bands: size 34: 32" (81cm); size 36: 32 58" (82.5cm); size 38: 33" (84cm); size 40: 3312" (85cm); size 42: 3418" (86.5cm) long, and 34" (2cm) wide c) collar attachment band: size 34: 1214" (31cm); sizes 36, 38: 1234" (32cm); size 40: 13" (33cm); size 42: 1312" (34cm) long, and 58" (1.5cm) wide Stretch lining: 9upper sleeve, cut 210under sleeve, cut 2Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of back neck edge, front shoulder edges, and armhole edges.

Construction Q Stitch right front section seam. Stitch

back section seams and side seams. Press seam allowances open.

Q On outer peplum pieces, stitch right front section seam, back section seams, and side seams.

Q Stitch outer peplum unit to front and back, beginning and ending stitching at front edges, exactly onmarked seamline. Press seam allowances open.

Q Separate zipper. Baste left zipper half (with pull) face up to side edge of center left front and peplum pieces so that zipper teeth lie on garment piece and the zipper tape lies on seam allowance. Zipper should end 316" (5mm) abovemarked lower edge. Using the zipper foot, stitch left front section seam, catching zipper in seam. Press seam allowances to the side.

Q Stitch shoulder seams, beginning and ending atmarked neck edge. Clip shoulder seam allowances into corner. Press seam allowances open.

Q Stitch center back seam on integrated collar pieces. Press seam allowances to one side. Trim lower seam allowance to 316" (5mm) wide. Turn under edge of upper

seam allowance and baste. From garment right side, stitch 14" (6mm) from seam.

Q Stitch collar to back neck edge. Lay leather band over collar attachment seam allowances, leaving ends of band extending evenly. Stitch leather band to seam allowances only, close to the seam. Trim seam allowances under band. Lay leather band and seam allowances down. Stitch band ends in place, along lines of shoulder seams, and trim extending ends. Stitch lower band edge in place.

Q On inside peplum, stitch section seams and side seams. With right sides together, pin inside peplum to attached peplum. Stitch lower edges together, beginning and ending seam atmarked front edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn inside peplum down and understitch close to seam. Turn inside peplum to inside and press edge. Lay inside edge flat over attachment seam. From jacket right side, stitch along attachment seam, interrupting stitching at zipper on left section seam. Clip seam allowance of left front next to seam allowance edge and directly at front section seam, close to horizontal seam. Bind seam allowances of horizontal seam together, with bias tape.

Q On front edges of peplum and fronts, trim away seam allowances, then continue along outer collar edges.

Q Turn upper end of right zipper tape under. Pin right half of zipper face up to front edge of right front and peplum so that teeth extend past edge. Zipper should end 316" (5mm) abovemarked lower edge. Stitch zipper tape in place.

Q Using a glue stick, apply leather bands along front edges and collar edges of jacket, on both outer side and underside. Overlap band ends at collar corners. Edgestitch bands in place on right front edge, next to the zipper using zipper foot.

Q Stitch back sleeve seams. Topstitch upper sleeves close to seams. Stitch front sleeve seams. Spread seam allowances open and glue down with textile glue. Fold sleeve hem allowances to wrong side of leather and press hem edge. Do not yet turn sleeves right side out. Stitch seams on sleeve linings. With right sides together, stitch lower edges of sleeve linings to hem allowances of leather sleeves,matching raw edges. Glue sleeve hem allowances in place with textile glue. With wrong sides together, pull sleeve linings over leather sleeves, and stitch upper edges to seam allowances. Lay extra length of lining down and press. Turn sleeves right side out.

Blue pattern line, sheets C1-C2Pattern pieces 1 to 10Size 34 3333Size 36 4444Size 38 55Size 40 6666Size 42 7777

Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.

Alternative:Stretch imitation leather, 54" (137cm) wide

Selvedges

Fold

Cutting layouts Ponte knit, 60" (152.5cm) wide

Stretch nappa leatherSince leather skins can vary greatly, no pattern layout is given for the leather.

Selvedges

Fold

NZ_BS1311_117T




Q Set in sleeves.

Q On left front band, sew lower snap halves in place, placing one snap level with peplum attachment seam and one snap 1034" (27cm) above. Close zipper. Sew upper snap halves to inside of peplum attachment seam and to seam allowance of section seam.

118- 082014-USSkirt !!PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1olxXGW

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 44Finished length from waist: 2412" (62cm)Waistband sits at natural waistline

MaterialsMatelass, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 78yd (.8m) for all sizes Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: 78yd (.7m) Waistband interfacing Notions: 1 Invisible zipper, 9" (22cm) long

Note: See jacket 116A-082014-US for the total fabric required tomake both skirt and jacket from one fabric as shown in the photo.



Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 58" (1.5cm); vent edges: 114" (3cm); upper skirt edge and waistband: 38" (1cm); hem: 158" (4cm); lining: 58" (1.5cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:

Matelass:1front skirt, cut 1 on fold2back skirt, cut 2a) waistband: size 34: 2612" (67cm); size 36: 28" (71cm); size 38: 2934" (75cm); size 40: 3114" (79cm); size 42: 3234" (83cm); size 44: 3414" (87cm) long, and 212" (6cm) wide, excluding seam allowancesLining: 1 front skirt, cut 1 on fold2 back skirt, cut 2Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.


toward centers.

Q Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances open.

Q With wrong sides together, fold and press waistband in half lengthwise. Unfold waistband. Stitch waistband to upper skirt edge. Press seam allowances open.

Q Sew invisible zipper to center back opening edges and outer waistband half (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from vent to zipper. Press seam allowances open.

Q On lining, stitch darts, center back seam, and side seams, leaving openings for zipper and vent. With right sides together, stitch lining to inside waistband edge. Press seam allowances toward lining. Fold waistband half to inside. With wrong sides together, pull lining into skirt. Pin waistband attachment seams together exactly. From skirt right side, stitch along seam. Turn under edges of inside waistband half and lining and sew to zipper tapes.

Q Press hem and vent allowances to inside and hand-stitch sew in place.

Q In the areas of the vent, trim away a generous section of lining, rounding off top corners. Narrowly hem edges. Turn hem allowance of lining to wrong side, turn edge under, and stitch lining 34" (2cm) shorter than skirt.

119- 082014-USFur collar !"PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1ni95CD

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42on page 27

MaterialsFake fur with long pile, 54" (137cm) wide: 12yd (.35m)Ponte knit, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 12yd (.35m).Fine jersey, 60" (152cm) wide, for lining: 12yd (.35m)


Cutting Fake fur/fine jersey:Collar: size 34: 3034" (78cm); size 36: 3212" (82cm); size 38: 3312" (85cm); size 40: 35" (89cm)l size 42: 3614" (92cm) long, and 12" (30cm) wide Ponte knit:2 connecting pieces, size 34: 634" (17cm); size 36: 718" (18cm); size 38: 712" (19cm); size 40: 8" (20cm); size 42: 838" (21cm) long, and 12" (30cm) wide

ConstructionNote: When stitching seams, push hairs of fur away from seam, toward collar piece.

Q Lay connecting pieces right sides together. Stitch short edges together (at top and bottom), with a stretch stitch, stretching edges slightly. Turn right-side out and press edges. Pin open edges together.

Q With right sides together, baste connecting piece to one side edge of fur collar. Lay lining on collar right sides together over connecting piece, and pin. Stitch along upper and lower collar edges (long edges), beginning and ending at side edge without connecting piece, exactly atmarked seamline and not stitching across seam allowances. Turn collar right-side out. Stitch connecting piece to open side edge of fur collar. Turn lining edge under and hand-stitch to attachment seam.




Construction Q Lay pleats in upper front in direction of

arrows and baste.

Q With wrong sides together, fold and press facing strip for back neck edge lengthwise. Pin folded facing strip to back neck edge so that folded edge of strip lies on garment piece, 38" (1cm) past seamline. Stitch facing strip in place. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing strip to inside and press edge. Topstitch 14" (6mm) from neck edge.

Q With right sides together, baste back shoulder edges to front shoulder edges. Turn front self-facing onto back at foldline, and pin to shoulder edges. Stitch shoulder seams. Pull back out of front. Lay facing on front. Press shoulder seams, but do not press folded edge. Baste facing to armhole edges.

Q Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, beginning and ending exactly at marked sleeve seamlines. At seam ends, turn seam allowances of sleeves back and pin in place. Stitch each side seam, from sleeve attachment seam to lower edge. Remove pins. Stitch sleeve seams.

Q Stitch side seams on lower front and back pieces.

Q Stitch upper front and back to lower front and back, easing upper section. Press seam allowances down and stitch asmarked to form casing, leaving 2" (5cm) open to insert elastic. Insert elastic in casing. Sew ends of elastic together to a circumference of: size 36: 26" (66cm); size 38: 2734" (70cm); size 40: 2914" (74cm); size 42: 3034" (78cm); size 44: 3212" (82cm). Sew seam opening closed.

Q Turn hem allowances of dress and sleeves to inside. Stitch 1" (2.5cm) from lower edges of dress and sleeves with twin sewingmachine needle, catching hem allowances.

119A- 082014-USTop !"PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/Rfv12g

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44on page 42Finished length from waist: 10" (25cm)Sleeves: 212" (6cm) longer than normal

MaterialsStretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide: size 36: 178yds (1.7m); sizes 38, 40: 2yds (1.8cm); sizes 42, 44: 218yds (1.9m)Notions: Elastic, 38" (1cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40, 42: 78yd (.8m); size 44: 1yd (.85m); fusible bias stay tape; twin sewingmachine needle


PreparationTrace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Note hem line for view A. Cut out all paper pieces. Pleat arrows on piece 21 aremarked for size 36. For other sizes,mark pleat arrows accordingly.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams and edges: 58" (1.5cm); lower edges of pieces 21 and 22: 34" (2cm); upper edge of piece 24: 34" (2cm); hem and sleeve hems: 114" (3cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Stretch jersey:21upper front, cut 1 on fold22upper back, cut 1 on fold23sleeve, cut 224lower front, cut 1 on fold24lower back, cut 1 on folda) back neck edge facing strip: sizes 36, 38: 1214" (31cm); size 40: 1234" (32cm); size 42: 13 (33cm); size 44: 1312" (34cm) long, and 158" (4cm) wide, including seam allowancesFusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of armhole edges, back shoulder edges, and back neck edge.

120- 082014-USDress !!PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 45Finished length from waist: 2634" (68cm)

Materials Silk organza, 45" (114.5cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 312yds (3.20m); sizes 40, 42: 358yds (3.3m)

Red pattern line, sheets D1-D2Pattern pieces 21, 22 and 24Size 34 AAAAASize 36 ===Size 38 CCCSize 40 67 67Size 42 EEEEE

NZ_BS1312_120T

Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long; 1 small ball button


PreparationTrace pieces 21-22 and 24 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowancesSeams, edges, and hem: 38" (1cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Silk organza:21front, cut 1 on fold22back, cut 224front skirt, cut 1 on fold24back skirt, cut 2a) tie belt: size 34: 65" (165cm); size 36: 67" (170cm); size 38: 69" (175cm); sizes 40, 42: 71" (180cm) long, and 834" (22cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) bias binding neckline strip: size 34: 1934" (50cm); size 36: 2014" (51cm); size 38: 2012" (52cm); size 40: 21" (53cm); size 42: 2114" (54cm) long, and 114"




(3cm) wide, including seam allowances c) 2 bias binding armhole strips: size 34: 1818" (46cm); size 36: 19" (48cm); size 38: 1914" (49cm); size 40: 2014" (51cm); size 42: 2012" (52cm) long, and 114" (3cm) wide, including seam allowances

Construction Q Sew shoulder seams as French seams:

Lay fabric pieces wrong sides together. Stitch seam allowances together 18" (4mm) from the edge. Begin and end stitching exactly atmarked seamlines of neck and armhole edges. Press seam allowances open. Lay pieces right sides together with the seam lying exactly along the fold. Stitch 14" (6mm) from folded edge, alongmarked seamline, not stitching across seam allowances at neck edge and armhole edges. Press seam allowances toward back.

Q Gather upper skirt edge and lower front and back edges between asterisks: front to: size 34: 1118" (28cm); size 36: 12" (30cm); size 38: 1234" (32cm); size 40: 1312" (34cm); size 42: 1414" (36cm); and each back to: size 34: 512" (14cm); size 36: 6" (15cm); size 38: 638" (16cm); size 40: 634" (17cm); size 42: 718" (18cm).

Q Stitch front skirt to front piece. Stitch back skirts to back pieces. Neaten edges of seam allowances together and press allowances up.

Q Sew invisible zipper to center back opening edges, between openingmarks (see instructions on page 66). Turn top ends of zipper tapes under and sew to seam allowances. Above zipper, press back opening seam allowances to inside, turn edges under, and stitch in place. Trim lower zipper tapes 34" (2cm) below opening and bind ends with a fabric scrap. Clip seam allowances at end of opening.

Cutting layoutSilk organza, 45" (114.5cm) wide

Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout, right sides together.

SelvedgesSelvedges

Selvedges

Fold

Fold

Sew center back seam as a French seam (see above), from lower edge to zipper opening.

Q Bind neck edge: Trim away seam allowance of neck edge. With wrong sides together, fold and press binding strip in half lengthwise. Pin folded binding strip to inside of neck edge, leaving end of strip extending past left back opening edge 114" (3cm) for loop. Stitch binding strip in place 316" (5mm) from edge. Turn binding up and turn right end under. Fold binding strip out over neck edge and baste over attachment seam. Edgestitch binding in place, also stitching edges of extending section closed. Lay the extending end in a loop and sew to inside back edge. Stitch right end of binding closed.

Q At each armhole edge, trim away seam allowance. Bind armhole edges.

Q Sew side seams as French seams (see above). Sew upper ends of seam allowances to armhole edges by hand.

Q At each side seam, stitch a thread loop 3" (7cm) long over waistline seam. For each loop, stretch 34 threads and cover them closely with hand buttonhole stitching.

Q Tie belt: With right sides together, fold tie belt lengthwise. Stitch edges together, leaving a section of seam open for turning. Turn belt right-side out. Sew seam opening closed.

Q Finish hem edge with closely spaced zigzag: Press hem allowance to wrong side. From right side, stitch along folded edge with closely spaced zigzag. On inside, carefully trim hem allowance close to stitching.

Q Sew button to right back slit edge, tomatch loop.

120.1- 082014-USSkirt !"PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 57Finished length: 1534" (40 cm)Upper skirt edge sits at natural waistline.

Materials Sequin fabric, 54" (137) wide: 1 yd (.85 m) for all sizes Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 58 yd (.5 m) for all sizesNotions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22 cm) long


PreparationTrace pieces 1-4 from pattern sheet. Trace yoke pieces from skirt panels as separate pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.

CuttingLay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:Sequin fabric:1center front yoke, cut 1 on fold2side front yoke, cut 23center back yoke, cut 24side back yoke, cut 2a) 2 skirt panels: size 34: 4714" (120 cm); size 36: 4734" (121 cm); size 38: 4812" (123 cm); size 40: 4934" (126 cm); size 42: 50" (127 cm); size 44: 5034" (129 cm) wide, and 10" (25 cm) longLining: 1center front skirt panel, cut 1 on fold2side front skirt panel, cut 23center back skirt panel, cut 24side back skirt panel, cut 2Fusible bias stay tape:Fuse to wrong side of upper edge on skirt lining pieces.

Construction Q Stitch side front yokes to center front

yoke. Stitch side back yokes to center back yokes. Stitch side seams of yoke. Press seam allowances open.

Q Sew invisible zipper to back edges of yoke (see instructions on page 66). Leave zipper tapes extending past lower edge.




Q Stitch lining seams, leaving walking slits 434"(12 cm) long in side seams and leaving slit for zipper opening in back.

Q Face upper skirt edge: With right sides together, pull lining over skirt and pin to upper skirt edge. At zipper opening, turn lining edge under 316" (5 mm) before opening edge and pin to upper edge.

Burda's Instruction a-D

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