Bulleit world class seminar

THE DNA OF FLAVORWORLD CLASS BARTENDER LAB

Seminar agenda1. Welcome – Please Taste Responsibly

2. Formation of Flavora) Grainsb) Yeastc) Fermentationd) Distillatione) Maturation

3. Vertical Tasting – New Spirit Through Mature Spirita) Sensory Analysis b) E-Nose Data

4. The Science of Location – Rickhouse 101

5. Oak Species – American vs. European vs. Japanese

6. Q&A

Glossary• E-NOSE. Mass spectrometry technology. Gives give fast, accurate data on aromas present in liquid / gas.• CONGENER. A chemical constituent that gives a distinctive character or aroma. Some are valued in

spirits whereas others are removed.

• SACCHAROMYCES CERIVISIAE. Distiller’s yeast, this strain is used in all types of whisk(e)y.• LACTOBACILLI. A bacteria that occurs in the fermentation process, which gives a creamy, fruity flavor

and is found in beers and whiskeys that employ long fermentations.

• ORTHONASAL OLFACTION. Inhaling aromas through the nose.• RETRONASAL OLFACTION. Inhaling aromas over the palate / nasal cavity and out through the nose.

• QUERCUS ALBA. American white oak.• QUERCUS ROBUR. European oak.• QUERCUS MONGOLICA. Japanese white oak.

• ADSORPTION. The adhesion of molecules to a surface (copper / charcoal).

• BETA DAMASCONE. Belongs to a family called ‘rose ketones.’ Gives a floral, apple flavor.• SYRINGOL (DIMETHOXYPHENOL). Produced by the thermal breakdown of lignin. Gives a smoky,

peppery flavor / aroma. • ISOBUTANOL (METHYL PROPONOL). Organic compound found in distilled spirits. Has a slight ‘damp’

aroma.• DMS (DIMETHYL SULPHIDE). An ‘organosulphur’ that occurs during the production process. Gives

unwanted flavors that are removed by copper and charcoal by adsorption. • LIGNIN. A complex organic polymer that makes up part of the structure of wood. When heat-treated, it

releases aromatic aldehydes like vanillin (vanilla flavor).• HEMICELLULOSE. Complex polysaccharides (wood sugars) that, when heat-treated, leach out sweetness

and form flavors like maltol (butterscotch).• PHENOLS. Aromatic organic compounds famous for giving Scotch its smoky flavor and aroma. Also found

in wood and will give a smoky note to un-peated whiskeys like bourbon. • HETEROCYCLIC NITROGEN COMPOUNDS. Give a roasted, nutty character.• VISCIMETRY. Visible physical reaction that occurs when liquids of different viscosity (e.g. ethanol, water)

collide.

Your tasting mat

The e-nose

Quantitative-analytical progression• E-nose detected 8 chemical compounds of significance

Compound Sensory Descriptor

1-propanol Alcoholic, fruity, pungent

Ethyl acetate Butter, caramelized, fruity orange, pineapple, sweet

2-methyl-1-propanol Alcoholic, leek, licorice, winey

n-Butanol Cheese / fermented, fruity, medicinal

3-methyl-1-butanol Balsamic / fermented, fruity, malty, ripe onion

Iso-amyl acetate Banana, fresh, pear, sweet

Ethyl-octanoate Anise, baked fruit, floral, green, waxy / sweet

Beta-damascenone Apple, apple rose, fruit, honey, sweet tobacco

Mash billsGRAINS

• A mash bill is a pre-determined mixture of grains that are then ground and cooked to extract fermentable sugars prior to fermentation

• Backbone of bourbon and usually makes up the majority (70%+) of its mash bill.

• Gives a very high yield of alcohol and as a result is used extensively in both the American and Scotch whisk(e)y (for “grain whisky”).

• Lends a distinctive roundness / sweetness to the final spirit.

• Indigenous grain crop to N. America

CORN RYE• Another indigenous crop to N.

America that was used by the early settlers to make bread and distill.

• Maryland and Pennsylvania were the original heartland of rye.

• Requires more skill to produce and gives far less yield than corn or barley.

• Gives a spirit a distinctive spicy, peppery character.

Mash billsGRAINS

• One of the first “domesticated” grains and has been used for making food, predominately bread, since the Neolithic period.

• Its use in bourbon was made famous by brands that were initially produced at Stitzel-Weller.

• Gives a sweetness and slight creamy flavor to the spirit creating a “softer” style of bourbon

• Used for two key reasons:• Firstly, it delivers a large amount of

the enzymes that convert starches to sugars, making it a very efficient catalyst to ensure a good yield and fermentation.

• Secondly, it adds depth of flavor giving a malty and cereal character to the spirit.

WHEAT BARLEY

Bourbon whiskeyGRAINS

• Three main bourbon mash bills are used in the industry:

1. ‘HIGH CORN’ BOURBON. - The most common style available.- Will have at least 70% corn, but can be as high as 100%. - Sweeter on the palate.

2. ‘HIGH RYE’ BOURBON. - The higher amounts of rye will counter the sweetness of

the corn giving a more spicy, peppery character.

3. ‘WHEATED’ BOURBON. - Usually high in corn but with no or little rye, which will be

replaced with wheat - Sweet, soft and creamy flavor.

Rye whiskeyGRAINS

• Rye whiskey was one of the first commercially distilled spirits in America. The heartlands of Rye were Pennsylvania and Maryland.

• Post-Prohibition, the US government flooded the market with cheap aged rye, effectively destroying the distillers who couldn’t compete on age or price.

• Rye is a difficult whiskey to produce for various reasons. It is very viscous and can burn onto stills if the distiller isn’t careful. It can also be affected by ferulic acid.

• Rye whiskey is known for its dry, spicy quality. The higher the rye (minimum 51% of mash bill for American) the drier and more spicy the spirit.

Bulleit Frontier WhiskeyGRAINS

• What is the importance of a mash bill?

BULLEIT RYE95% Rye

5% Malted Barley

BULLEIT BOURBON68% Corn28% Rye

4% Malted Barley

Yeast strainsYEAST

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae

Yeast historyYEAST

• Yeast research started in the late 1600s shortly after the invention of the microscope

• It wasn’t until Louis Pasteur’s groundbreaking research in the late 1800s that it was fully understood that yeast ‘metabolizes’ sugars to produce alcohol.

• There are many types of yeast used for different industries (beer, bread, etc.), but the only one used in the distilling industry is SACCHAROMYCES CERIVISIAE.

• Many distillers used to use wild yeast strains that they cultured and continue to use today. They can have radically different effects on the final spirit. There are fruity yeasts, spicy, nutty, etc. – and they all lend flavor to the new spirit character and the final matured product.

Yeast strainsYEAST

Fermentation FERMENTATION

SHORT 20-30 HRS LONG 50+ HRS

NUTTY / SPICY CREAMY / FRUITY

CopperDISTILL

ATION

CopperDISTILL

ATION

Copper Pot StillPhoto Credit: Willet Distillery

CopperDISTILL

ATION

George Dickel Beer StillPhoto Credit: Ewan Morgan

Killer graph – distillery characterMATURATION

Tast

e

Maturation

Distillery Character

New spirit tasting

E-nose data for sample 1 – Bulleit Rye new make

BULLEIT RYE – O MBULLEIT RYE – 4 MBULLEIT RYE – 25 MBULLEIT RYE – 55 MBULLEIT RYE – 134 MBULLEIT RYE – FINAL

Ethyl acetate

Ethyl acetate

3-methyl-1-butanol3-methyl-1-butanol

Ethyl octanoate

Beta-damascenone

Beta-damascenone

Ethyl octanoate

2-methyl 1-propanol

2-methyl 1-propanol

E-nose data new make wheated Bourbon

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Ethyl acetate

Ethyl acetate


Ethyl octanoate

Beta-damascenone

Beta-damascenoneEthyl octanoate

2-methyl 1-propanol

2-methyl 1-propanol

Quantitative-analytical progression• E-nose detected 8 chemical compounds of significance

Compound Sensory Descriptor

1-propanol Alcoholic, fruity, pungent

Ethyl acetate Butter, caramelized, fruity orange, pineapple, sweet

2-methyl-1-propanol Alcoholic, leek, licorice, winey

n-Butanol Cheese / fermented, fruity, medicinal

3-methyl-1-butanol Balsamic / fermented, fruity, malty, ripe onion

Iso-amyl acetate Banana, fresh, pear, sweet

Ethyl-octanoate Anise, baked fruit, floral, green, waxy / sweet

Beta-damascenone Apple, apple rose, fruit, honey, sweet tobacco

Maturation scienceMATURATION

CASK MECHANISM OUTCOME EXAMPLE

SUBTRACTIVE Removes immature elements from new make

spirits

Sulphur compounds, immature off notes

ADDITIVE Adds wood-derived flavors from the cask

Vanillin, oak lactone

INTERACTIVE Converts spirit and extractive wood elements

to produce mature character

Acetal formation

Oak species – American / EuropeanMATURATION

Oak species – American / JapaneseMATURATION

Oak species – flavor notesMATURATION

MORE FLAVOR NOTES

QUERCUS ALBA (AMERICAN)

QUERCUS ROBUR(EUROPEAN)

QUERCUS MONGOLICA(JAPANESE)

• GROWS SLOWER• TIGHTER MEDULLARY

RAYS• HIGH LACTONE

(COCONUT NOTES) LEVELS

• VERY HARD• CHARRED INTERIOR

• SOFTER • MORE PORUS• TOASTED• VARIANCE IN

EXTRACTIVE LEVELS• EX-WINE, SHERRY

• MIZUNARA OAK• SOFT• VERY PORUS• VERY EXPENSIVE• CONTROLLED FELLING• VERY HIGH VANILLIN

LEVELS

Killer graph – degradation of immaturityMATURATION

Tast

e

Maturation


Immaturity

Barrel charringMATURATION

Char levelsMATURATION

1 2

43

Killer graph – maturationMATURATION

Tast

e

Maturation


ImmaturityCask

Maturation

PyrolysisMATURATION

• Heat treatment plays a critical role in maturing distilled spirits.

• Two methods used:- Toasting (sherry or wine casks) is much milder and takes

longer- Charring (bourbon / rye) is more rapid and aggressive and

sets alight the interior of the barrels to create a carbonized layer of activated charcoal

• The objectives / outcomes are the same:- Degradation of wood polymers to yield flavor

compounds, such as lignin to produce aromatic aldehydes like vanillin

- Degradation of polysaccharides (cellulose / hemicellulose) which help form maltol which gives rich caramel notes

- Destruction of resinous / unpleasant aromas – pyrolysis removes trans-2-nonenal which gives a rancid flavor to the spirit

- Production of an active carbon layer – carbon works by a process called adsorption trapping larger sulphur compounds like DMS (Dimethyl Sulphide) that give off ‘vegetal’ notes to the spirit

PyrolysisMATURATION

CARAMELIZATION OF POLLYSACCHARIDES

Water and whiskeyMATURATION

Taste samples 3-7


Ethyl acetate

Ethyl acetate


Ethyl octanoate

Beta-damascenone

Beta-damascenone

Ethyl octanoate

2-methyl 1-propanol

2-methyl 1-propanol

E-nose data for sample 3 – Bulleit Rye barreled April 2015, aged 4 months


Ethyl acetate

Ethyl acetate


Ethyl octanoate

Beta-damascenone

Beta-damascenone

Ethyl octanoate

2-methyl 1-propanol

2-methyl 1-propanol

E-nose data for sample 4 – Bulleit Rye barreled July 2013, aged 25 months


Ethyl acetate

Ethyl acetate

Ethyl octanoate

Beta-damascenone

Beta-damascenone

Ethyl octanoate

2-methyl 1-propanol

2-methyl 1-propanol


E-nose data for sample 5 – Bulleit Rye barreled July 2011, aged 55 months


Ethyl acetate

Ethyl acetate

Ethyl octanoate

Beta-damascenone

Beta-damascenone

2-methyl 1-propanol


Ethyl octanoate 2-methyl 1-propanol

E-nose data for sample 6 – Bulleit Rye final bottled product

E-nose data aged wheated Bourbon

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Ethyl acetate

Ethyl acetate


Ethyl octanoate

Beta-damascenone

Beta-damascenoneEthyl octanoate

2-methyl 1-propanol

2-methyl 1-propanol

Color and pH progression

Sample Color (WCU) pH

Unaged Bulleit Rye – 0 Months 0 4.81

2015 Bulleit Rye – 4 Months 98 4.73




Bulleit Rye – final bottled product 178 4.10

• Rapid color development occurs until ~4.5 years

• Continuous drop in pH during maturation generally yields softer, fuller, rounder flavor profiles

E-nose – principal component analysis

Bulleit Rye 4 mos

Bulleit Rye new make

Bulleit Rye 25 months

Bulleit Rye 55 mos

Bulleit Rye final product

Wheated bourbon final product

Bulleit Rye 134 mos

Wheated bourbon new

make

Bulleit chemical ‘signature’ versus wheated bourbons

As whiskeys age, they takes on a different chemical / sensory profile or ‘signature’

Impact of aging on flavor

0

200,000

400,000

600,000

800,000

1,000,000

1,200,000

1,400,000 Volatile Compounds in Bulleit Distillates

New make20132004Final Product

Area

Cou

nts

1 propanol ethyl acetate 2-methyl 1-propanol

beta damascenoneAlcoholic,

fruity, pungentButter,

caramelized, fruity orange,

pineapple, sweet

Alcoholic, leek, licorice, winey

Apple, apple rose, fruit,

honey, sweet tobacco

• Aging increases fruity, caramelized, sweet, wine / alcohol, honey and tobacco type flavor compounds

• Aging decreases fermented, ripe, pungent notes

Science of location – rickhouse 101MATURATION

Floor 1 Stitzel-Weller Rickhouse

Science of location – rickhouse 101MATURATION

7 OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

6 OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

5 OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

4 OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

3 OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

2 OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

1 OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

OOO

MORE OAK EXTRACTIVES / HIGHER PROOF

CENTER CUT / MORE BALANCED

LIGHTER, SWEETER / LOWER PROOF

HOT AND DRY = PROOF RAISES

COOLER AND MORE AMBIENT MOISTURE = PROOF LOWERS

HEAT

RIS

ES

ANGEL’S SHARE ANGEL’S SHARE

Thank you – Bulleit Rye barreled 2004, aged 134 months


Ethyl acetate

Ethyl acetate

Ethyl octanoate

Beta-damascenone

Beta-damascenone

2-methyl 1-propanol


Ethyl octanoate 2-methyl 1-propanol

E-nose data for sample 8 – Bulleit Rye barreled 2004, aged 134 months

Bulleit world class seminar

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