Buena Vista Winery's new owner sees future in past - SFGate#photo-6201610

http://www.sfgate.com/wine/article/Buena-Vista-Winery-s-new-owner-sees-future-in-past-5430089.php#photo-6201610[4/28/2014 2:13:21 PM]

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Buena Vista Winery's new owner sees future in pastJanet FletcherUpdated 2:15 pm, Friday, April 25, 2014

George Webber is dressed as Count Agoston Haraszthy, who built a stone winery on the Buena Vistaproperty in 1857. Photo: Jason Henry, Special To The Chronicle

Workmen swarmed the grounds of BuenaVista Winery one recent chilly springmorning, taking advantage of a break betweenstorms to resume this Sonoma property'smassive makeover.

A crew labored on the asphalt road leading upto the estate, while stonemasons laidcobblestone and landscapers trimmed aboxwood maze. At the far end of a newlycobbled courtyard, a large fountain sprayedfine arcs of water, the droplets glinting likeglass beads in the sun.

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Buena Vista Winery's new owner sees future in past - SFGate#photo-6201610

http://www.sfgate.com/wine/article/Buena-Vista-Winery-s-new-owner-sees-future-in-past-5430089.php#photo-6201610[4/28/2014 2:13:21 PM]

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Thanks, ironically, to a deep-pocketedFrenchman, California's oldest winery isundergoing some much-needed surgery.

In the three years since Jean-Charles Boisset,son of a prominent Burgundian winenegociant, bought the troubled winery, BuenaVista has been buffed, earthquake-retrofittedand repositioned for the future. WhetherBoisset can turn the enterprise around and

raise the visitor count after years of decline, it's too soon to say. But he has lavishedfunds and energy on the effort.

"It's an absolute emotional pursuit," says the ebullient 44-year-old, who heads BoissetFamily Estates, the U.S. arm of his family's holdings. Despite his background in finance -he has an MBA from the University of San Francisco - Boisset insists that this investmentis an affair of the heart, an obsession he has nurtured for more than three decades.

On his first trip to California, as an 11-year-old, Boisset visited Buena Vista with hisFrench grandparents, both schoolteachers.

The youngster soaked up the story of the swashbuckling Hungarian count, AgostonHaraszthy, who had built a stone winery on the property in 1857. And back in their hotelroom on the Sonoma plaza, his grandparents poured him a taste of BuenaVista Chardonnay.

"I was totally enamored and wanted to stay here," recalls Boisset. "I went home and toldmy parents, 'This is where we need to spend time.' "

Boisset's parents were likely too focused on their negociant enterprise - now the third-largest wine firm in France - to act on business tips from their 11-year-old, but they didpermit him to attend high school in the U.S., at the French International School inBethesda, Md. After college in Great Britain - his parents wanted him closer to home -Jean-Charles returned to the U.S. for graduate school. For several years, he worked withhis sister in the family business in France, but all the while Buena Vista remaineda preoccupation.

"We tried to acquire the winery for many years," says Boisset, "but others were moreclever than us."

In 2011, he had another chance when the financially strapped investor group that ownedBuena Vista , the fourth owner in 10 years , put it on the block. By that time, the brandhad lost a lot of steam. Visitor traffic had plummeted, and the two neglected stonebuildings on the property were being strangled by ivy. One of them, a cellar added byHaraszthy in 1864, had been unusable since the Loma Prieta earthquake in 1989.

Today the ivy is gone, the stones repaired, and the damaged cellar made sound againwith vertical steel rods hidden in the walls. In August 2012, 18 months after Boisset'spurchase, Buena Vista reopened the historic cellar with a splashy gala attended by aHaraszthy descendant and the mayor of Tokaj, the famous Hungarian wine town.

Boisset, a flamboyant personality with a penchant for theatrics, believes he can breathenew life into the winery by highlighting its 19th century roots, creating a history-rich

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Buena Vista Winery's new owner sees future in past - SFGate#photo-6201610

http://www.sfgate.com/wine/article/Buena-Vista-Winery-s-new-owner-sees-future-in-past-5430089.php#photo-6201610[4/28/2014 2:13:21 PM]

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visitor experience akin to touring Williamsburg or Monticello.

"We need to spend much more time talking about the past," says the voluble Boisset."We're not running a software company. Especially in wine, centuries give credibility."

Boisset's alter ego, the charismatic Count Haraszthy, has been resuscitated for thepurpose. Costumed in top hat and brocade vest, a local actor playing Haraszthy givestours and private tastings, recounting his wine innovations in accented English - aHungarian accent, presumably.

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sfgate.comBuena Vista Winery's new owner sees future in past - SFGate#photo-6201610

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