Bucharest

BucharestApril - May 2014

N°88 - 15.00 lei

inyourpocket.com

15 Years!Bucharest In Your Pocket celebrates its birthday

New LookIn Your Pocket gets a thoroughly modern makeover

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

April - May 2014 3 facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

Contents

E S S E N T I A LC I T Y G U I D E S

15 Years of Bucharest IYP 6From terrible covers to law suits and Romania Mare

Arriving & Getting Around 12

Bucharest Basics 18

Culture & Events Listings 22What’s on in Bucharest

Restaurants 28The tastiest places in the city to eat

Nightlife 47The city’s best pubs and clubs

Sightseeing 51Don’t leave Bucharest without seeing the essentials

Old Town 60Where Bucharest goes to party

Shopping 79Souvenirs, local designers and local wine

Hotels 81

Directory 90

MapsNorthern Bucharest map 94-95Central & Southern Bucharest map 96-97Street register 98

IN YOUR POCKET MOBILEIn Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones via our responsive mobile platform, found at m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable resource which puts our unrivalled content together with the technical capabilities of today’s smartphones. In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest to your current location. Smart filters can be used to ensure that only those places which matter to you are displayed. You can also leave comments about venues, as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You can even share your comments with your friends via the most popular social networks. Point your phone’s web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now.

A traditional Romanian dance troupe celebrate 15 years of Bucharest In Your Pocket

4 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Foreword

Bucharest In Your PocketIYP Romania SrlStr. Stefan Burileanu 1-3Bl. 21E, Sc. 1, Ap. 8,Bucuresti 014191, RomaniaTel. (+4) 021 321 44 [email protected]

ISSN 1454-5276 © IYP Romania Srl. Printed at MEGAPress SA, Bucharest (tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09). Published six times per year, up to 20,000 copies produced each issue. Bucharest In Your Pocket is a member of the Romanian Audit Bureau of Circulation (BRAT).

Editorial Editor Craig Turp Photography © IYP Romania Srl unless otherwise stated Cover © Dreamstime Metro Map Maximilian Turp-Balazs from an idea by Alexander Sirbu

Sales To contact a member of our sales team send an email to the address [email protected], or call our office and ask for the sales department.

Copyright notice Text, photos and maps copyright IYP Romania Srl 1999-2014 unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved. No part of this pub-lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of its review, without written permission from the copyright owner. The trademark In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernadinu g. 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

E S S E N T I A LC I T Y G U I D E S

THE NEW IN YOUR POCKET

Regular readers would have no doubt noticed that this issue of In Your Pocket is sporting something of a new look. Designed entirely with our readers in mind, we have taken on board hundreds of comments we have received over the past few years to come up with a new format for our guides to make them more dy-namic, streamlined and easier on the eye than ever be-fore. With far less clutter than in past editions, we now emphasise the very best a city has to offer, while still ensuring that we point your way to all of those quirky, off-the-beaten track places you will not find in any other, lesser city guides.

Where on earth have all those years gone? It feels like only yesterday that In Your Pocket turned up in Romania, wet be-hind the ears with dreams of dropping a half-decent city guide on the country’s capital Bucharest. That we managed to do so, and that we this issue celebrate 15 years in the business is testament not to our staying power, but to the simple fact that Bucharest grabbed us with both arms, pulled us to her ample bosom and refused let us go. It’s that kind of city: you don’t visit, live or work in Bucharest, it visits, lives and works in you. And we doubt anyone would have it any other way. Bucharest has seen many changes over the 15 years we have been publishing our little guide. The city has grown, become wealthier, more sophisticated and far more visitor friendly. One thing remains consistent, however: this is still the smokiest city in Europe, the continent’s smoking sec-tion, where it is increasingly difficult to go anywhere to eat or drink without your clothes reeking of tobacco by the end of the night. Surely, 15 years on, it’s time for this to finally change?

CZECHREPUBLIC

SOUTHAFRICA

POLAND

ROMANIAHUNGARY

SERBIABOSNIA

ALBANIAGREECE

FYR MACEDONIA

BULGARIAMONTENEGRO

ITALYCROATIASLOVENIA

AUSTRIASWITZERLAND

UKRAINE

GEORGIA

BELARUS

LITHUANIA

LATVIA

ESTONIA

RUSSIA

GERMANYBELGIUM

NETHERLANDS

NORTHERNIRELAND

IRELAND

ABOUT IYPIt’s now 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilni-us in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Euro-pe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downri-ght indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We will be expanding even further in 2014, with the publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean: our first in the Western He-misphere.

To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (face-book.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).


15 Years of Bucharest In Your Pocket

15 Years of Bucharest

In Your PocketBUCHAREST IN YOUR POCKET TAKES A SELF INDULGENT STROLL ALONG MEMORY LANE

“When we researched the first issue of Bucharest In Your Pocket we had a feeling that the city was too big to be put in a pocket. Fifteen years and 88 issues later we have proven that we can actually put the essence of this city in our handy guide.” Matthias Luefkens, Founder

What can only be described as Eclipse Fever was gripping the nation when the first Bucharest In Your Pocket was pub-lished in May, 1999. Bucharest was, you see, being heralded as the best place in the world to view one of nature’s rari-ties: a total eclipse of the sun scheduled for August 11th, and which would darken the sky for three minutes and make stars visible at midday.

Bizarre as it may seem now but many people in Roma-nia were counting on the eclipse kickstarting the country’s tourist industry. Official projections of visitor numbers went into the millions, with Interior Minister Dudu Ionescu tell-ing Reuters in April 1999 that he expected crowds to ‘over-whelm the capital.’

He needn’t have worried, for as it turned out of course nobody - and we mean nobody - came, and the eclipse passed overhead without event. Indeed, cloud cover and light drizzle meant that most people in the capital - the ma-jority of whom had assembled on rooftops and balconies wearing ridiculous sunglasses emblazoned with Coca-Cola logos – saw nothing.

Yet it was not just the Romanian authorities who were in optimistic mood back in 1999. Even Bucharest In Your Pocket, today of course a gnarled, bitten and pessimistic publication with an enormous chip on its shoulder, was back then all too often quick to give Bucharest the benefit of the doubt. In issue one we stated with barely disguised pride that ‘drivers should know that the speed limit of 50km is strictly enforced by the Romanian police.’ Strictly en-forced? Has anyone ever seen the Romanian police strictly enforce anything?

Not that we were blind to all realities. We printed the national average wage (1,172,000 lei, then US$82) and not-ed how pensioners were expected to ‘scratch out a living on US$35.’ We also – a publishing first in Romania, we be-lieve – stated the price charged by the high-class hookers that frequented the city’s five-star hotels (US$200), as well as that charged by the less classy ladies at the bottom end of Calea Victoriei (US$50). Interestingly, it was that piece of information above all others which won us our first friends.

For a view of how much has changed in Bucharest since our first issue, and how far the city has come, it is enough just to look at the listings we had then, and those we have now.

In Where to Stay we presented all of Bucharest’s hotels,

30 of them. In this issue we feature more than double that, and there are some we have had to ditch for a lack of space. The Nightlife section of issue one ran to just two pages, while in the Getting Around chapter we listed all of Bucha-rest’s petrol stations (there were 18).

The biggest section back then – as it remains today – was of course Restaurants. In BIYP 1 we featured 41 places to eat, and that included just about everywhere in and around the city centre. In this issue we have more than 100 restaurants included, and tens more in our database (and online at inyourpocket.com) that we simply do not have room for in print.

In the fifteen years we have been publishing our re-views - not all of which are of course complimentary - we have had too many threats of legal action to remember. Only twice, however, have we actually been brought before a court on libel charges. And I am happy to report that on both occasions we won.

The first case, in 2002, was brought against us by the Becker Brau Brewery on Calea Rahova, after we dared to criticize the service. The second case, in 2004, was brought by the Marele Zid Chinese restaurant in Brasov, after we told the readers of a special Brasov supplement to ‘run, run away’ before they were tempted to go inside and eat. In both cases the two judges dismissed claims of libel, invok-ing our right to criticize.

We have also had to deal regularly with copyright theft. Back in 2000 the entire contents of an early issue were translated into French and used in Petit Fute’s Romania guide. Our legal team had it removed from sale - and we

8 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com April - May 2014 9 facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

15 Years of Bucharest In Your Pocket15 Years of Bucharest In Your Pocket

ably with the Ceausescu regime. One client pulled an ad-vert in objection to our stance.

Support came from the British ambassador, who raised spirits with a letter of support, while Tim Johnson – who would later became an In Your Pocket ad sales guru - wrote about the commotion in the weekly English-language (as it was then) newspaper Bucharest Business Week, with a charming picture of editor Jeroen van Marle feeding a copy of our guide to a stray dog (who had been enticed to do so with the promise of meat). Happy days, may there be many more to come. Woof!

The cover of the first issue of Bucharest In Your Pocket. It’s a wonder we ever made it to issue two

UNIMAGINABLE SWINERY

In 2000 the marketing director of a very well known tel-ecoms company told us in no uncertain terms that he would never, ever advertise in Bucharest In Your Pocket because ‘our vision of Bucharest does not match yours.’ In a nutshell, we did not paint a rosy enough picture of the city. Though masked in language that was far more civil, the message we got was much the same as that which

Romania Mare, newspaper of the nationalist Greater Ro-mania Party, had greeted the first issue of BIYP with a year earlier. ‘AT ODORHIEU SECUIESC THE HUNGARIANS HAVE PRINTED AN UNIMAGINABLE SWINERY AGAINST ROMA-NIA,’ they barked, in an article we reproduce below. They said that we claimed Bucharest was ‘a dirty, smoky and polluted city of two million people.’ That Romania was a country with ‘Europe’s last leper colony, a country of extreme poverty, institutionalised homophobia and nationwide discrimination against gypsies.’ Well, we said it, we meant it, and by and large much of what we wrote then remains valid today. Later in 2000 we were again in the headlines, after daily newspaper Adevarul featured – on the front cover - an in-terview with a senator, Emil Tocaci, who called for nothing less than our guide to be banned, saying that ‘this tourist brochure says things that will not encourage foreign visi-tors to Romania.’ Adevarul went on to do a further hatchet job on us, claiming in a double-page spread that we ‘promote Bu-charest as a city of thieves, false policemen, pimps and prostitutes, using the money of Romanian companies to do so.’ The simple fact that an elected senator was call-ing for the state to ban an independent publication (and thinking that the state would have the power to do so) betrays the statist-era mindset of many Romanian poli-ticians at that time. It also, however, shows how far the country has come since then. Romania Mare, Senator Emil Tocaci and the marketing director of the telecoms company all got worked up for one simple reason: they completely misunderstood what Bucharest In Your Pocket is. Damn right we do not attract visitors to Bucharest: that is not our job. (Though given that visitor numbers in the fifteen years since we first ap-peared have gone up by about three million per cent, we can hardly have been said to put anyone off ). As a visitor’s guide our job is simply to provide those foreigners who do come here with the most accurate information about the city as possible. If that means warning people about stray dogs so be it. If it means pointing out that much of the city is without proper sewerage, so be it. We do not promote Bucharest, we simply report what we see. We have done that now for fifteen years, and 88 issues. We will continue to do so for another 88. And another...

are talking every copy, worldwide - at no small cost to Petit Fute. Local copycats have been two to a penny, with almost every other visitor’s guide to Bucharest that has appeared (and in many cases promptly disappeared) using our con-tent at one stage or another. Insider’s Guide to Bucharest and Bucharest Guide being just two of the (now defunct) charla-tans who have felt the wrath of our legal team.

Over the years though, no subject has been more con-troversial than the shaggy dog story that is Bucharest’s stray dog situation. We have gained a certain reputation for be-ing outspoken on the subject, going all the way back to issue one, when we wrote: ‘In this town, you can’t swing a cat without hitting a stray dog.’

What had happened was that the writer of issue one, Leeore Schnairson, had been bitten by a stray in the city centre and was subjected to some nasty rabies shots, turning opinion in the office against the mutts and the misguided fools who feed, protect and defend them. Lazy television journalists picked up the topic and broadcast nonsense, with Pro TV being the only station that bothered to come and interview us on the subject, running the full story on the evening news.

Our comments in subsequent issues (including one which suggested ‘all strays should be exterminated and perhaps served as a national dish’) got us angry faxes from a French animal rights association, comparing us unfavour-

ROLL OF HONOUR

We would not be here today were it not for the drive, ideas, support and contributions given to BIYP over the years by the following people: Jeroen van Marle, Matthias Luefkens, Tim Johnson, Martin Kitson, George Ortiz, Oliver Ortiz, Nicolas Ortiz, Reine Ortiz, Nicola Wil-liams, Martins Zaprauskis, Oana Sav, Adriana Doltea, Loredana Racaru, Eduard Cristea, Adrian Ojog, Magda Paţa, Alexander Sîrbu, Miruna Popescu, Angela Aruştei, Mihaela Glavan, Andreea Pasca, Oana Bakovic, Catalin Cazacu, Anca Bucataru, Raluca Tanasa, Tim Judy, Deb-bie Stowe, Scott Alexander Young, Craig Young, Leeore Schnairson, Ruta Klimaviciute, Tomas Haman, Sebastian Grzymala.


15 Years of Bucharest In Your Pocket

THE EARLY DAYS

Jeroen van Marle, whose persistence gave birth to Bucha-rest In Your Pocket, writes about the guide’s earliest days...

Since its foundation in 1992, the In Your Pocket (IYP) se-ries had become increasingly successful in the Baltic re-gion, and by 1999 its owners were looking to expand. I had used one of the first editions of Vilnius In Your Pock-et on a trip to the Baltic States in 1992, and some years later - after my studies had brought me to Romania - I dug out my old copy of Vilnius IYP and realised Romania would be a great place to start a similar guide. I sent an email to IYP in August 1998, and moved to Romania six months later to set up two new In Your Pocket guides, Bucharest and Southern Transylvania, the first of doz-ens of new IYP guides to be published across Europe.

At the time, In Your Pocket didn’t have useful manuals for how to write a first issue or how to run an office, and there was an enormous amount of work to be done, from hiring staff, setting up the company and finding office space (a tiny apartment overlooking the Cercul Militar) to getting the phones and internet to work and writing the guide. In 1999, Romania wasn’t the most stable of countries. There was high inflation that made accounting problematic, and just when we had ordered and paid for the office computers, the leu fell by some 15 per cent overnight and the computer shop refused to deliver without extra payment.

Then we needed to find a bank. This was not easy, as none of the Romanian ones appeared reliable - these were the days of Bancorex and Banca Nationala a Re-ligiilor, remember - and corporate giants such as ABN AMRO refused to take us on as clients. I’ll always re-member the monthly taxi ride to ING (the one foreign bank that did want our custom) to fetch millions and millions of lei in brown paper bags to pay the salaries.

The first months at Romania In Your Pocket were cha-otic, sleepless and highly educational, but resulted in a cracking first edition of Bucharest In Your Pocket, albeit with a ghastly cover photo that immediately made an impact locally. The first proper English-language visitor guide to a city that still had no tourist office was well-received.

After two intensive but enjoyable years in Romania, I was asked to help In Your Pocket expand elsewhere, and I handed Bucharest IYP over to Craig Turp, who has looked after things in one capacity or another ever since.

I’m delighted to see that 15 years on Bucharest In Your Pocket is still the quality city guide that we had in mind from day one, and has managed to help hundreds of thousands of travellers with its honest reviews, and offer dozens of Romanians a career in an international publishing company. Here’s to many more years!

COVER PARADE

After something of a bad start (see page 9), we have had some fantastic covers: the six featured here are just a selection. Above left is the cover of BIYP 11: boats on Herastrau Lake by Andreea Pasca. Given that is the only cover that both the editorial and sales teams agree is fantastic, it probably ranks as the office all-time favour-ite; BIYP 18 is an editorial favourite, the CEC building, while BIYP 22 (below left), an espresso machine in a Bu-charest cafe, is the sales team’s choice. BIYP 33 next to it was novel: bereft of ideas we visited a shop and took a photo of a box of chocolates.

BIYP 35 (below left) was a gift from the organisers of Bucharest’s first Cow Parade, while the cover of BIYP 87 - which launched our new-look design, really did put Bucharest back on the map...

BucharestFebruary - March 2014

N°87 - 15.00 lei

inyourpocket.com

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times


Arriving & Getting AroundArriving & Getting Around

ARRIVING AT OTOPENI

Bucharest’s only commercial airport is Otopeni (official-ly Henri Coanda), 17km north of the city on the DN1. Opened in 1970 and recently extended, it is a spacious, efficient airport. After getting off the plane and easing your way through passport control, you’ll find yourself in the baggage reclaim area. Ignore all of the services on of-fer here, especially the currency exchange desks. Instead, grab your luggage (if it fails to arrive head for the small office on the right hand of side of the exit), and head off through customs to the arrivals area. Here there are loads of ATMs, a press shop and a small cafe. To the right is a passage leading to the departures terminal, lined with car hire desks and a few shops, including a chemist.

To order a taxi, look for the touchscreens in the arrivals hall. They are fully automated and very easy to use (and offer multiple-language options), and you can choose a taxi from just about the full range of Bucharest taxi companies: all have their tariffs clearly displayed. Once the taxi company of your choice has informed you (via the screen) how long the taxi will take to arrive, and what ID number the taxi has, you simply go outside to wait for your taxi. Make sure you get into the correct taxi: check the company name and ID number. Ignore the Rapid taxis which wait on the lower level.

For those who want to head into town in a bit more comfort than your average visitor, a good option is TransVision, who offer airport transfers in a fleet of smart vehicles from as little as €5 per person. Call (+4) 755 05 26 21 or go to visit their website, www.airport-transfer-bucharest.com.

You can also get to town by taking bus 783, which stops underneath the arrivals hall, in front of internal arrivals and leaves for the city centre (stopping at Piata Victoriei, Piata Romana and Piata Universitatii) every 30 minutes during the day, and then every 40 minutes throughout the night. The full timetable of the 783 bus is online at ratb.ro. Another bus, the 780, runs from the airport to Gara de Nord from 05:15 to 23:00 roughly every 30 min-utes. You need to purchase an Activ Card before board-ing (get it from the little booth which you’ll find on your right hand side as you exit). A return journey into the city and back costs 7 lei (no singles are available, but there is no time limit on using the return). You also need to pay 3.70 lei for the card itself, but it can be recharged as often as you like at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest, with as much credit as you wish, and used on all Bucharest buses, trolleybuses and trams. These cards cannot be bought on board. There is also a train which connects the airport to the main railway station, Gara de Nord. The train departs at irregular intervals, however, and to get to the airport’s station you need to take a minibus. Timetables and tickets are available from a counter in the Arrivals hall. Look out for the Bilete CFR sign.

ARRIVING AT GARA DE NORD

If you arrive in Bucharest by train you will arrive at Gara de Nord. It is OK, but has the usual collection of rogues, tramps and thieves to contend with. There are ATMs, shops, kiosks, a McDonalds and a KFC. It even now has free Wifi. To get to town take an honest taxi from the of-ficial taxi station outside (ignore anyone who approach-es you inside the station). Currently, only taxis from two reliable Bucharest companies, Meridian and Pelican, are allowed to pick up fares here. If no taxi is waiting, use one of the two touch screens to order one. You can also hop on the metro: you are just one stop away from Piata Victoriei, or take the bus: No. 123 goes to Piata Unirii, No. 85 to Piata Universitatii. Tram 44 goes to Cismigiu. Tickets (in the form of a Card Activ) from the kiosk next to the bus stop (itself next to the taxi rank).

WARNING: None of Bucharest’s reputable hostels send people to Gara de Nord to speculatively meet trains. Anyone who approaches you (and if you have just got off the Budapest train and have a backpack, you will be approached) is trying to scam you: they will try and divert you from your intended destination (often by say-ing that the place you want to go to is closed) towards another hostel or hotel that they will recommend to you. Just ignore anything they say and wave them away.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTBucharest is served by an extensive public transport net-work, made up of bus, trolleybus, tram and metro. All forms of public transport in Bucharest are very cheap.

BUCHAREST METRO Opened in 1979, Bucharest’s metro was primarily built to ship workers from the vast housing estates of Titan, Berceni and Militari out to the huge indus-trial plants at Pipera, IMGB, Republica and Industriilor. That’s all very well if you are resident of Titan working at IMGB, but useless to almost everybody else. The city centre is poorly served by the metro and only the north-south M2 line, from Pipera to Berceni, which passes through Piatas Victoriei, Ro-mana and Unirii, and the M1 branch to the Gara de Nord, is likely to be of any use to visitors.

METRO TICKETS Tickets for the Bucharest metro are cheap: they cost either 4 lei (valid for two trips; doua ca-latorii) or 15 lei (ten trips; zece calatorii) and can be bought from any metro station. You can also buy tickets valid for one day (abonament de o zi), costing 6 lei. The metro runs from around 05:00 to 23:00.

TRAMS, BUSES & TROLLEYBUSES (RATB)Even the most remote corners of Bucharest are served by bus, trolleybus or tram, and most main roads in the city cen-tre benefit from three or four different transport routes. Most buses are overcrowded, however, and travelling on them can

often be a less than pleasant experience. Buses, trolleybuses and trams run from very early in the morning (around 04:30) to around 23:00 (earlier at weekends), after which the night buses take over. The night bus network is extensive, and operates an hourly service throughout the night. All night buses depart from Piata Unirii. Look out too for the open-top, hop-on, hop-off Sightseeing Bus. It runs each summer and follows a circular route from Piata Presei Libere to Piata Unirii and back. It should be in service again by mid-May, but at press time we had not been able to confirm a date, or this year’s ticket prices. Tickets valid all day last year cost 25 lei for adults. They can be bought on board.

RATB TICKETS To use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will need to buy an Activ Card before climbing aboard. These cards cost 3.70 lei, and can be bought from the little kiosks next to major stops. They need to be loaded with credit (minimum 5 lei, maximum 50 lei) and are reusable. The card is then debited each time you validate it at one of the orange devices located on buses, trams and trolleybuses, or at the entrance to the metro. One trip costs 1.30 lei. On all forms of public transport in Bucharest children under the age of seven travel free. After that age they need a full-price ticket.

TRAINSGiven that Romania‘s roads are terrible, it‘s comforting to know that the country‘s railways are equally crap. Having said that, many long years of upgrade work on the Bucha-


Arriving & Getting Around

TRAIN SCHEDULEFrom BUCHAREST To BUCHAREST

Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr.

05:52 08:35 BRASOV 05:30 08:15

13:00 15:28 BRASOV 09:42 12:10

15:30 18:10 BRASOV 13:40 16:05

16:45 19:35 BRASOV 16:16 19:06

17:30 20:00 BRASOV 20:45 23:09

13:00 22:22 CLUJ-NAPOCA 14:00 23:09

10:15 13:03 CONSTANTA 08:30 11:20

17:00 19:48 CONSTANTA 16:50 19:39

15:45 18:47 CRAIOVA 16:20 19:20

13:40 17:23 GALATI 17:40 21:34

16:00 23:06 IASI 06:00 13:10

18:40 07:13 ORADEA 19:08 07:48

18:40 09:29 SATU MARE 16:50 07:48

10:30 15:38 SIBIU 15:01 20:40

13:00 17:55 SIGHISOARA 18:26 23:09

11:10 19:21 TIRGU MURES 13:07 21:20

05:45 14:15 TIMISOARA 05:45 14:28

Verified on March 31, 2014. The full Romanian railway schedule is online at: cfrcalatori.ro

rest - Brasov and Bucharest - Constanta routes are now complete, and journey times are back to something ap-proaching 1989 levels: just over 2 hrs 30 mins to Brasov, 2 hrs 50 mins to Constanta. Should you have to take a train, always try to get an InterCity (IC) or InterRegio (IR) as they are the fastest and usually have the most modern rolling stock. Regio (R-) trains are slow and use much older roll-ing stock. You will also see trains designated as ICN: these are InterCity trains which stop at more stations than usual, and are more like InterRegios. Prices on all types of train are relatively cheap, but are rising fast. An InterCity adult single from Bucharest to Brasov costs 90.50 lei. To buy train tickets visit either the station, a CFR agency or buy online at bilete.cfrcalatori.ro. (Note that if buying online you need to do so at least 24 hours in advance). Tickets cannot be purchased on the train, though you can try bribing the guard. AGENTIA DE VOIAJ CFR CFR’s advance booking offices.QA-4, Calea Grivitei 139, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 313 26 42, www.cfr.ro. Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.WASTEELS Advance reservations for all types of trains.QA-4, Gara de Nord, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317 03 70, (+4) 021 300 27 30, www.triptkts.ro. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

MOVING ON

With the exception of Budapest - served by several planes and trains each day - getting from Bucharest to the capitals of neighbouring countries is not as easy, quick or inexpen-sive as you would expect. Here is a rundown of the fastest and cheapest ways of getting from capital to capital...

BUCHAREST - BELGRADETarom flies to Belgrade once a day, with prices from €218 return. Air Serbia is cheaper, with returns from around €157. Incredibly, there is currently no train ser-vice between Bucharest and Belgrade.

BUCHAREST - BUDAPESTThere are three flights from Bucharest to Budapest each day, all operated by Tarom. Standard return pric-es start at €207, although you can often find cheaper tickets if you book in advance. There are also three di-rect trains connecting the two cities: the fastest day-time service leaves at 05:45 (arriving in Budapest at 18:50) while the night train leaves at 17:40 and arrives at 08:50. The price for a berth in a sleeping wagon is around €90 (one way), while a bed in a cuseta (sharing with up to five others) costs €53.

BUCHAREST - CHISINAUThere are four flights a day between Bucharest and Chisinau, and if bought far enough in advance return plane tickets with Tarom can cost as little as €122. Air Moldova also fly the same route, tickets usually costing slightly more, around €144 return. The overnight train to Chisinau departs Bucharest at 19:40, and arrives in the Moldovan capital at 09:02 the next morning. Tick-ets cost from €41 (single).

BUCHAREST - KYIVGetting to Kyiv from Bucharest takes plenty of spare cash or patience. Just one airline flies direct to Kyiv from Bucharest, Aerosvit, and prices start at a monop-oly-tastic €334 return. The train to Kyiv takes a whop-ping 30 hours and 17 minutes, leaving Bucharest at 19:40, arriving in Kyiv at 00:57 the following night. The train is not direct: you need to change in Chisinau. Tickets cost from €63 (single).

BUCHAREST - SOFIAFlying to Sofia from Bucharest costs around €140, with either Tarom or Bulgaria Air. There are two direct (if very slow) trains per day, one at 12:30 (arriving Sofia 22:00) and a night train leaving at 23:12 (arriving in Sofia at 09:25). Single tickets cost from €59. Much faster than the train is the daily coach linking Bucharest and Sofia. It leaves the Gara Filaret coach station next to Parcul Carol (B-7) each day at 16:00, arriving in Sofia just under seven hours later. Tickets cost 100 lei and can be bought direct from the driver, or online at www.oetapgroup.com.


Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around

CAR RENTAL IN BUCHARESTAll of the major international car hire firms are present in Bucharest, alongside a number of local outfits. You usually need to be over 21 to hire a car in Romania, and to have held a license for at least three years.

AVISA delivery and collection service is available free of charge within the city limits; the service is on request, and it de-pends on the availability of the Avis rental office.QB-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN (One Star Smart Number), (+4) 021 210 43 44, fax (+4) 021 210 69 12, [email protected], www.avis.ro. Open 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (C-5) InterContinental,

tel. (+4) 021 314 18 37, Open 08:00 - 20:00; Henri Coan-da International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 19 57, Open 07:00 - 02:00 and Avis Porsche Bucharest North, tel. (+4) 0723 612 011, Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.

BAVARIA RENT QDrumul Garii Otopeni 1B, tel. (+4) 0730 33 37 07, (+4) 031 802 22 22, fax (+4) 031 802 22 28, [email protected], www.bavariarent.ro. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at Otopeni Airport, tel. (+4) 021 201 45 34, (+4) 0730 33 37 05, Open 08:00-02:00, Sat 08:00-20:00.

BUDGET QB-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210 28 67, fax (+4) 021 210 29 95, [email protected], www.budgetro.ro. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti 5 - 7 (Howard Johnson Ho-tel), tel. (+4) 021 201 50 89, Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed

Sat, Sun and Henri Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 16 67, Open 08:00 - 20:00.

CARS4RENT QStr. Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter), tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0372 99 99 99, fax (+4) 021 352 87 16, [email protected], www.cars4rent.ro. Open 24 hrs.

COMPACT RENT-A-CAR QA-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 1, bl A7, sc. 1, et. 6, ap. 16, tel. (+4) 0744 58 67 24, (+4) 021 312 98 57, fax (+4) 021 312 99 82, [email protected], www.compact-rentacar.ro. Prices from €18/day.

EUROPCAR QD-6, Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021 310 17 97, (+4) 0747 28 06 49, fax (+4) 021 310 17 96, [email protected], www.europcar.ro. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at Otopeni Airport tel. (+4) 0374 00 40, Open 08:00 - 22:00. Service also available in Cluj, Constanta, Sibiu, Timisoara, Iasi.

HERTZ QA-1, Piata Montreal 10, entrance F, 1st Floor, office 1.20, tel. (+4) 021 407 82 00, [email protected], www.hertz.ro. Also at Henri Coanda Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 12 78, Open 08:00 - 22:00.

SIXT NEW KOPEL QCalea Bucurestilor 201-203, tel. (+4) 021 9400, (+4) 0372 37 20 05, [email protected], www.sixt.ro. Open 09:00 - 17:30.

BUCHAREST TAXIS

By and large, Bucharest’s trustworthy taxis are easy to spot as they are emblazoned with the name and phone number of the company they are associated with. To counter this, however, the dodgy ones have also start-ed to plaster phone numbers over their cars, alongside copy-cat logos that look cunningly like those of decent taxi companies. Be extra careful when getting into a taxi around Gara de Nord, Bucuresti Mall, Piata Universi-tatii, Piata Unirii and the Old Town / Lipscani area. When leaving a hotel or restaurant, always have the concierge or waiter order you a cab. Never pay more than 1.77 lei per kilometre in any taxi.

At Otopeni Airport, ignore any taxi drivers who ap-proach you in the arrivals hall, as well as those which wait downstairs: use the taxi ordering system. More about that and arriving at Otopeni in the Arriving sec-tion on page 6.

Some of Bucharest’s taxi companies now have smartphone apps which make use of your phone’s GPS capabilities to get the closest taxi to you as fast as possible. The best is Star-Taxi: search for it on Google Play or the AppStore.

As an alternative to the standard taxis, there is also now Black Cab to consider. Black Cab is a taxi service which offers cabs at much the same price as standard taxis, the only difference being that there is a minimum charge (14 lei). Regular users can pay monthly, and - best of all - Black Cabs will travel to the suburbs (Pipera and the like: many ordinary taxis will not). Black Cabs cannot be hailed on the street, but can be pre-ordered in a number of ways. Take a look at blackcab.ro.

TRUSTED TAXI COMPANIES:Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451, Con-fort 021 9455, Cristaxi 021 9461, Leone 021 9425, Mavi 021 9450 Meridian 021 9444, Mondial 021 9423, Speed Taxi 021 9477, Taxi As 021 9435, Taxi To-tal 021 9424. Most of these companies have at least one operator who speaks English.

TOURIST INFORMATION

INFO TOURIST CENTER A new, privately-run tourist information centre on Calea Victoriei which is phenom-enally helpful and - dare we say it - perhaps even better than the city’s official tourist information office. It’s open Sundays too.QC-5, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 021 211 33 66. Open 9:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.


Bucharest Basics

CRIME & SAFETYWe do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one of the safest capital cities in Europe. Violent crime is rare and almost always carried out exclusively between rival gangs in the city’s less-salubrious areas. If you do not go looking for trouble, the chances of you getting into any are tiny. While pickpockets are everywhere (you should be particu-larly careful on crowded buses), violent crime is unheard of, and even women can walk the city’s streets alone at night in relative safety.

The Romanian police force is also far better and less corrupt than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on the city’s streets, especially in busy areas such as Old Town at night. The main police station in Bucharest is on B-dul Lascar Cartagiu (B-4), halfway between Piata Romana and Piata Victoriei. If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good idea to carry at least a photocopy of your passport and driving license. Drinking in public (except in designat-ed areas) leaves you open to a fine, and despite appearanc-es to the contrary, prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested ask to speak to your embassy. There is a list on pages 90-91.

In a nutshell though, do not worry. Of all Bucharest’s many problems, crime really is one of the least of them.

DOGSIt was once written that you couldn’t swing a cat in Bucha-rest without hitting a dog (by us, in fact, in our first issue, some 14 years ago) and it remains true - up to a point. Ac-

cording to a census carried out by the city council last year there are still more than 64,000 stray dogs on Bucharest’s streets (64,704 to be precise), although the vast majority are found outside of the city centre. There are still some packs of dogs in the city centre but these tend to be less aggressive than those which live in the city’s suburbs. How-ever, the number of people being bitten each year in the city is rising. In 2012 more than 16,000 people were bitten by Bucharest’s strays, an increase of more than 30 per cent on 2011. Despite this, there appears to be little real urgency about any of the efforts being made to eradicate the prob-lem. Indeed, to all intents and purposes the city council has washed its hands of the issue. Add in the fact that a large and vociferous minority of Bucharest’s citizens actu-ally want the dogs to remain on the streets and it becomes clear that the problem will not be dealt with anytime soon. There are also a number of well-funded animal-rights NGOs which reject any proposal to rid the city of its dogs. All of these factors combined to tragic effect in Sep-tember 2013, when a four-year-old boy was killed by a pack of strays on some waste ground next to a park in northern Bucharest. This awful incident immediately prompted the authorities to pass new legislation designed to eradicate dogs from Romania’s streets once and for all. It remains to

SO WHERE AM I?

Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of the world which will - to those of a certain age - always be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more accurate to describe Bucharest’s geographical location as south-eastern Europe.

Founded, legend has it, in the 14th century, Bucharest is in that part of Romania known as Wallachia, one of the three historic principalities which make up the modern country (the others are Moldavia and Transylvania).

The official population of Bucharest is just under two million, but as many migrants from the rest of the coun-try do not bother to register as citizens of the capital, the true number is thought to be closer to three million.

Bucharest is close to the Danube (which is just 69 kilo-metres to the south), the border between Romania and Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu, linked by a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the other side of the river, whose pleasant centre is well worth a day trip. Alas you will need a car, as train services between Bucharest and Ruse (and the rest of Bulgaria) are poor.

Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from Constanta and the Black Sea coast, and now that the A2 motorway goes all the way to the Black Sea port, the journey can be done in just over two hours. The train service to Constanta is slower. To the north of Bucharest is Ploiesti - the centre of Romania’s oil industry, and beyond that the Carpathian Mountains, a two hour drive away.


Bucharest BasicsBucharest Basicsbe seen, however, if local councils - including that in Bucha-rest - will act upon it. Should the worst come to the worst and you are bitten during your time in Bucharest, present yourself at once to the casualty unit (Camera de Garda) at the Institutul Matei Bals, (D-3) Str. Dr. Calistrat Grozovici 1, tel. (+4) 021 318 60 90. The wound will be cleaned up, and you will be admin-istered both an anti-tetanus and an anti-rabies vaccine (the anti-rabies injection is the first of a course three: the others must be done seven and then 21 days afterwards). You will also get a prescription for a course of antibiotics.

LEFT LUGGAGEGara de Nord offers left luggage facilities, but no luggage lock-ers. You will find the left luggage counter opposite the Was-teels office, a short walk from the platforms. The charge is 5 lei per small bag per 24 hours, 9 lei for a bigger bag. You will need to present valid ID when dropping off or picking up a bag.

MONEYRomania’s currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100 bani. Leu notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50, 10, 5 and 1. These are supplemented by 50, 10 and 5 bani coins. €1 is currently worth 4.52 lei. The best place to get your hands on Romanian money is at an ATM. If you have to change cash, do it inside a bank. Credit and debit cards (Mas-terCard and Visa) are accepted almost everywhere. American Express and Diners Club cards are less widely accepted.

POLITICSSince the bloody revolution of December 1989, Romania has been a parliamentary democracy. Of sorts. The Head of State is the president (currently Traian Basescu, who has been in office since 2004), elected for five year terms. The president may serve no more than two terms of office. Suspended twice by parliament, Basescu has survived two

A BRIEF HISTORY OF

BUCHAREST (1)Bucharest is a relatively new city: mention of it is not made until 1459, as one of the residences of Vlad III (the Impaler), ruler of Wallachia. The exact origins of the city are therefore unknown. Folklore has it that a shepherd, Bucur, founded the city, but a more likely candidate is Radu Voda (also known as Radu Negru), ruler of Wal-lachia from c. 1290-1300.

It was under Vlad the Impaler that the city grew to any real size, when it became the preferred site of the Wal-lachian court. This was based in what is today known as the Old Town, around the Curtea Veche. The city was sacked for the first time in 1476, by the Moldavian ruler Stephen the Great (Stefan cel Mare), and again by the Turks in 1554. During Mihai Bravu’s uprising against the Turks in 1594, Bucharest was all but destroyed in heavy fighting. It was not until the reign of Wallachian prince Matei Basarab in the 1640s that the city fully recovered, and the princely court rebuilt. Sacked again in 1655 (by the Transylvanians) Bucharest suffered plague and fam-ine for much of the rest of the 1600s.

It was the accession to the Wallachian throne of Con-stantin Brancoveanu in 1688 which changed Bucha-rest’s fortunes. Brancoveanu negotiated alliances with the Hapsburgs and Russians - keeping the Turks at bay - while overseeing a cultural renaissance at home. It was during his reign that the Brancovenesc-style - a mix of the Renaissance and the Byzantine, so popular with the city’s architects for centuries after - first appeared.

The Turks finally got the better of Brancoveanu in 1714: ordered to Constantinople to account for himself he was beheaded by Sultan Ahmed III. No longer trusting lo-cal Wallachian princes to serve their interests, the Turks instead appointed a long line of Greek administrators to rule the principality. Known as the Phanariots (they came from the Greek district of Constantinople, Phanar) they would rule over Bucharest until 1821. During this time the city grew in size and importance, despite regu-lar disasters: there were major earthquakes in 1802, 1804 and 1812, while plague returned in 1813-14. As many as 40,000 people died in Wallachia during the plague.

While still nominally a Turkish province, the Peace of Adrianople which ended the Russo-Turkish war of 1828-9 left Wallachia (and Bucharest with it) under Rus-sian occupation. Fortunately, the general the Russians appointed to govern Bucharest, Pavel Kiseleff, was an enlightened man who during his 14 years in charge of the city (1829-1843) oversaw sweeping changes. He carved out new boulevards (one of which, Sos. Kiseleff, today carries his name), introduced running water and a sewerage system, built schools and hospitals and centralised the city’s chaotic fire-fighting service.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF

BUCHAREST (2)

In January 1859, at the Hotel Concordia on Strada Smardan, Wallachia’s nascent parliament elected Alex-andru Ioan Cuza as the principality’s new ruler. Given that the Moldovian parliament had elected the same man to be their leader a few days before, the vote at the Concordia in effect created the first state of Romania. Nevertheless, it would be another 19 years (and require another Russo-Turkish War) before Romania was official-ly able to declare itself independent of Turkey, in 1878.

Bucharest grew - and flourished - during the reign of Carol I (1866-1914), Romania’s first king. Electricity was introduced in 1882, and the city hosted a grand exhibi-tion, Romania in the World, in 1906. The Carol Park in southern Bucharest was built to host the fair.

During the 1920s and 1930s Bucharest was one of Eu-rope’s most dynamic, and architecturally avant-garde cit-ies. Large numbers of art deco buildings were construct-ed around the city. The Lido and Ambassador hotels on Bulevardul Magheru, as well as the Telephone Palace on Calea Victoriei are just three examples of this new wave.

Bucharest was heavily bombed during the latter part of World War II, but in comparison with much of Europe, the city was relatively unscathed. The communist au-thorities therefore initially made their mark on the city not by rebuilding it but by greatly extending it. The first major project was the district of Bucurestii Noi, construct-ed at the beginning of the 1950s. It was followed by the vast housing estates of Militari and Titan: huge dormito-ries for workers shipped in from the countryside to staff the newly created industrial platforms of Industriilor, Republica and IMGB. The city’s population doubled from 900,000 at the end of World War II to 1.8 million in 1980.

In 1977 the biggest earthquake in the city’s history killed more than 1,500 people. Many buildings were destroyed or damaged beyond repair, and Romania’s leader Nicolae Ceausescu took the opportunity to re-model the city in his own vision. By 1989 almost a fifth of Bucharest had been destroyed to make way for the new Centru Civic, the centrepiece of which was Casa Poporului, today known as Palatul Parlamentului.

Bucharest was the scene of the heaviest fighting dur-ing the Romanian Revolution of 1989, most of which centred on Piata Revolutiei, Piata Universitatii, the TVR building and Otopeni Airport.

Since the revolution Bucharest has continued to grow, although much of that growth has been outside the city limits. The population of the city proper in fact peaked in 2000, at 2.3 million: it is officially now down to 1.9 million (2011 census).

impeachment referendums, but his second term in office finally ends this year. The election to choose his successor will be held over two rounds at the end of November. Roma-nians will also go to the polls in June, to vote in elections for the European Parliament. A referendum on a new constitu-tion will be held at the same time. Executive power in Romania is held by the govern-ment, led by the prime minister, currently Victor Ponta. Ponta, the leader of the socialist PSD, has been in post (as the head of no fewer than four different governments) since May 2012.

TOILETSThe only decent public toilets in town are those at Gara de Nord (for which you have to pay, 1 leu). You will find free por-taloos around the city but these should be used only by the very desperate. Otherwise, find the nearest McDonald’s and make use of their loos. Note, however, that entrance to some McDonald’s toilets in Bucharest is protected with a four-digit code, which you will get when you buy something.

A WORD FROM THE MAYOR

I am one of the over two million inhabitants of Bucharest. This is where I was born, and where I grew up. I know both the bright and dark sides of every nook and cranny. I have learned the history of each stone, and experienced romance while wandering in Herastrau Park

or admiring the city by night. I have travelled a lot, but I have always come back home with infinite joy in order to discover my Bucharest over and over again. I am sure that there would have been no better place in Romania to build my medical career, with all the professional and academic opportu-nities that a capital city like Bucharest can offer. Yet I un-derstood that for everything you get in this life you have to give something back. That is why now, as the Mayor of Bucharest, I commit myself to giving the people of this city a place to live in, not just a place to dwell in. Bucharest is Romania’s most important cultural, economic, financial and political centre. It generates more than 20 per cent of the country’s GDP and is inhabited by more than 10 per cent of the Romanian population. All major financial and political institutions are based here. As one of 28 European capitals, Bucharest is ea-ger to share its cultural heritage with the community and the whole world. I therefore invite you to explore this wonderful city, to discover its mystery and take its pulse: Bucharest is always ready to surprise and impress its guests with its eternal and motley poetry.

Sorin Oprescu, Mayor of Bucharest

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG

In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the city code. You will be asked which service you require (Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pomp-ierii/Firemen). Emergency call centre operators should speak English or French but in our experience they do not always do so. At least make sure you know the name of the street you are calling from. If you get into trouble with the Police, demand to call your embassy. There is a list on page 90. The city‘s main police station is at (B-4) Str. Lascar Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84. The best Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the city is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8, next to Dinamo Stadium. There is a list of Pharmacies on pag-es 92-93, and an English speaking Dentist on page 90.


Culture & Events Listings

Bucharest In Your Pocket is the city’s best source of listings of rock and pop concerts, opera and ballet, special events, club nights and exhibitions. We welcome submissions, so if you have an event you want to publicise, however big or small, you can do so here: absolutely free. Send details of your event to [email protected].

CINEMASBucharest has a number of good cinemas, from big multi-plexes in the shopping malls to small, musty, independent cinemas in the city centre. Films in Romania are shown in their original language with Romanian subtitles. The excep-tions are animated films: these are usually dubbed into Ro-manian, although in larger multiplexes you may also find an original language version. The key words to look for are dub-lat (dubbed) and subtitrat (subtitled). To find out which films are showing, check the listings at the website cinemagia.ro

CINEMA PRO City centre, one-screen cinema behind Universitate, which shows the latest releases, with the film changing each Friday. Seats are comfy, sightlines are good and ticket prices cheap.QC-5, Str. Ion Ghica 3, MUni-versitate, tel. (+4) 031 824 13 60, www.cinemapro.ro. Tickets 13-22 lei.

HOLLYWOOD MULTIPLEX The best complex of cin-emas in the city, offering ten screens, good popcorn and comfortable seats.QE-7, Calea Vitan 55-59 (Bucuresti Mall), tel. (+4) 021 327 70 20/(+4) 021 327 70 21, www.hmultiplex.ro. Tickets 17.40 - 32 lei.

LIVE MUSIC: APRIL4 April - Kraak & Smaak @ Club Colectiv

4 April - The Pistols @ Mojo

4 April - Speak Floyd @ Puzzle

5 April - Alexandrina @ Sala Radio

5 April - Jaya the Cat @ Fabrica

7 April - Watain & Degial @ Club Colectiv

10 April - Dhafer Youssef @ Sala Radio

10 April - Taxi @ Hard Rock Cafe

11 April - Smiley @ True Club

12 April - God Is An Astronaut @ Fabrica

12 April - Iyeoka @ Hard Rock Cafe

13 April - Divna @ Ateneu Roman

16 April - British Legends Night (The Troggs, The Animals, The Yardbirds & Mungo Jerry) @ Sala Palatului

24 April - Bosquito @ Hard Rock Cafe

24 April - Valerinne & Keira is You @ Club Control

25 April - Armada Night Live @ Arenele Romane

25 April - Dope D. O. D. @ Turbohalle

26 April - Thomas Azier @ Club Colectiv

26 April - Stars of Romanian Rock (Cristi Mincules-cu, Nutu Olteanu, Ovidiu Ioncu Kempes and many more) @ Arenele Romane

27 April - Florian Pittis Tribute Concert (featuring Mircea Baniciu, Mircea Vintilă, Ducu Bertzi and many others) @ Parcul Titan

29 April - Amon Amarth @ Arenele Romane

IMAX/CINEMA CITY The only IMAX cinema in Romania, part of the enormous Cinema City complex in the Cotroceni Palace shopping centre.QB-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara, MPo-litehnica, tel. (+4) 021 407 00 00, www.aficotroceni.ro. Tickets 15-37.50 lei.

Sex Pistols tribute act The Pistols play Mojo on April 4th.


Culture & Events ListingsCulture & Events Listings

CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERTS

April Venue

4 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC BRAHMS Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

5 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC BRAHMS Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

8 19:00 CHAMBER RECITAL HAYDN, BERLIOZ, DINESCU Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

8 19:00 CELLO RECITAL GLIERE, POPPER, SOLLIMA Ateneu Roman Sala Mica

9 19:00 RADIO CHAMBER ORCHESTRA VIVALDI, MERCADENTE Sala Radio

10 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC BEETHOVEN, MAHLER Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

11 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC BEETHOVEN, MAHLER Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

11 19:00 NATIONAL RADIO ORCHESTRA BACH Sala Radio

15 19:00 FLORIN MITREA (PIANO) DEBUSSY, LISZT, SCHUBERT, PROKOFIEV Ateneu Roman Sala Mica

17 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC & CHOIR KORNGOLD, DAVID Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

23 19:00 HORIA MIHAIL (PIANO) MOZART Sala Radio

24 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC & CHOIR MENDELSSOHN Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

24 19:00 BRANCUSI TRIO ENESCU, FRANCK Sala Radio

25 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC & CHOIR MENDELSSOHN Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

25 19:00 HORIA MIHAIL (PIANO) MOZART Sala Radio

26 19:00 RADIO CHILDREN’S CHOIR ROMANAN ROOTS Sala Radio

29 19:00 CHAMBER RECITAL BACH, KARG-ELERT Ateneu Roman Sala Mica

30 19:00 RADIO CHAMBER ORCHESTRA HAYDN, WAGNER, MOZART Sala Radio

May

1 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC & CHOIR GRIEG, SCHUBERT Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

2 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC & CHOIR GRIEG, SCHUBERT Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

7 19:00 CHAMBER RECITAL BRADE, BACH, GIULIANI, PAGANINI Sala Radio

8 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC RAVEL Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

8 19:00 ANDREEA BUTNARU (PIANO) SCHUMANN, BARTOK, SHOSTAKOVICH Sala Radio

9 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC RAVEL Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

9 19:00 NATIONAL RADIO ORCHESTRA BEETHOVEN Sala Radio

14 19:00 RADIO CHAMBER ORCHESTRA MOZART, SAINT-SAENS, MOZART Sala Radio

15 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC GRIEG, MOZART, BEETHOVEN Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

16 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC GRIEG, MOZART, BEETHOVEN Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

16 19:00 NATIONAL RADIO ORCHESTRA BEETHOVEN, RAVEL Sala Radio

21 19:00 RADIO BIG BAND CONDUCTED BY IONEL TUDOR Sala Radio

22 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC MAHLER Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

23 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC MAHLER Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

23 19:00 NATIONAL RADIO ORCHESTRA BEETHOVEN, MENDELSSOHN Sala Radio

28 19:00 RADIO CHAMBER ORCHESTRA TARANU, DEDIU, LUTOWLOWSKI Sala Radio

29 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC SHOSTAKOVICH Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

29 19:00 SIMN 2014: RADIO CHAMBER CHOIR Sala Radio

30 19:00 GEORGE ENESCU PHILHARMONIC SHOSTAKOVICH Ateneu Roman Sala Mare

30 19:00 NATIONAL RADIO ORCHESTRA GLODEANU, VIERU, ROUSE Sala Radio

OPERA & BALLET LISTINGS

All performances take place at the Romanian National Opera. See foot of the page for details.

April

Opera8 11:00 HANSEL & GRETEL CHILDREN’S OPERA

11 19:00 AIDA GIUSEPPE VERDI

12 19:00 AIDA GIUSEPPE VERDI

25 19:00 OTHELLO GIUSEPPE VERDI

26 19:00 LA BOHEME GIACOMO PUCCINI

Ballet & Contemporary Dance4 19:00 DON QUIXOTE LUDWIG MINKUS

6 19:00 TANGO: RADION & JULIET EDWARD CLUG

13 19:00 ANNA KARENINA PYOTR ILYICH TCHAIKOVSKY

26 19:00 LE CORSAIRE ADOLPHE ADAM


30 19:00 BAIADERA LUDWIG MINKUS

MayOpera2 19:00 AIDA GIUSEPPE VERDI

4 18:30 OEDIPUS IGOR STRAVINSKY

7 19:00 RIGOLETTO GIUSEPPE VERDI

14 11:00 PUSS IN BOOTS CHILDREN’S OPERA

16 19:00 DON GIOVANNI W. A. MOZART

17 19:00 LA TRAVIATA GIUSEPPE VERDI

23 18:30 LOHENGRIN RICHARD WAGNER

24 19:00 THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO W. A. MOZART

29 19:00 MADAME BUTTERFLY GIACOMO PUCCINI

Ballet9 19:00 LE CORSAIRE ADOLPHE ADAM

11 19:00 SWAN LAKE PYOTR ILYICH TCHAIKOVSKY


25 19:00 SWAN LAKE PYOTR ILYICH TCHAIKOVSKY

ROMANIAN NATIONAL OPERA Bucharest’s el-egant opera house (whose exterior is currently being spruced up) was built in the early 1950s. Productions here are invariably excellent, and prices are relatively cheap.QA-5, B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, www.operanb.ro. Box office open 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00.

LIVE MUSIC: MAY7 May - Al Bano @ Sala Palatului

8 May - Peter Gabriel @ Romexpo

8 May - Zdob si Zdub @ Hard Rock Cafe

9 May - 3 Sud Est @ Sala Palatului

13 May - Dog Eat Dog @ Club Colectiv

13 May - Maria Nazionale @ Sala Palatului

14 May - Mircea Baniciu @ Sala Polivalenta

15 May - Kyla La Grange @ The Silver Church

15 May - Mariza @ Sala Palatului

15 May - Cargo @ Hard Rock Cafe

16 May - Krypton @ Music Club

23 May - Arch Enemy @ Turbohalle

29 May - Vama @ Hard Rock Cafe

30 May - Yanni @ Sala Palatului

Besides the gigs listed here look out too for regular live music at Mojo in the Old Town (p.74) which hosts top local bands alongside its resident Mojo Band. Sankt Petersburg (p.73) opposite also has live music a cou-ple of times per week, while Club A (p.75) is another decent bet. Outside of the Old Town, Hard Rock Cafe (p.28), Control (p.49) and Panic (p.50) are known for their range of live music, while Kulturhaus (p.50) simi-larly has live bands on most evenings. For live jazz, try Big Mamou (p.77). At Divan (p.59) there is live oriental music and dancing, and a Turkish DJ, every Friday and Saturday night at 21:30.

TICKETS

Tickets for most of the concerts listed here can be usu-ally be bought from the venues themselves (opera and classical concert tickets have to purchased from the relevant venues) or from the ticket resellers listed here. The websites myticket.ro, bilete.ro and vreaubilet.ro.

BILETOO.RO Buy tickets online at biletoo.ro or at the various outlets around the city: the most central is in Unirea, on the ground floor just inside the entrance next to McDon-alds.QC-6, Piata Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping Centre), MPiata Unirii, www.biletoo.ro.

DIVERTA MUSIC & FILM Sells tickets for most Bucharest concerts and events. The most central branch is on the third floor of Unirea Shopping Centre.QC-6, Piata Unirii 1 (Unirea Shop-ping Centre), MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 031 805 65 33, www.diverta.net. Open 10:00 - 22:00.


Culture & Events Listings

BUCHAREST WITH CHILDREN

The first stop for families visiting Bucharest should probably be the outstanding Village Museum (p.52). Children love it, as they can scurry around the houses, explore and generally be kids without worrying too much about grump security guards telling them off. The confectionery stand at the entrance selling tasty Romanian sweets helps too. The Peasant Museum (p.52) will please older children, especially those who want to find out a little about Romanian history (and note that the Clubul Taranului, around the back of the museum, has puppet shows most weekend mornings at 10:30am and 12pm). The Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum is another sure-fire hit for kids, while the curious little place that is the National Technical Museum at the entrance to Parcul Carol may be old fashioned and a bit dusty, but kids love it, as it is packed with models and exhibits of things which are right up their street: trains, cars, engines, jet packs, planes and such like.

Bucharest’s zoo on Aleea Priveghetorilor is better than it has been for years. It has a fine collection of exotic birds, and it is a good half-day out. Entrance costs 13 lei for adults, 6.50 lei for kids. The zoo is open daily from 09:00-17:00. And then of course there are the parks. Cismigiu (B-5) and Herastrau (A/B-2) are the best and most central, but Tineretului (take the metro to Tiner-etului), with its fabulous playgrounds, is also worth ex-ploring. An excellent indoor playground can be found at Funland Romania: a cracking place to take the kids on days when it rains. Featuring perhaps the biggest indoor playground we have seen (15 lei Mon-Fri, 20 lei Sat, Sun), bowling, billiards, arcade games and plenty of space for Mums and Dads to relax and have coffee in, it is a weekend-must. Find it on the fourth floor of the Unirea Shopping Centre in (C-6) Piata Unirii. There is also a very good playground and year-round indoor skating rink at the AFI Palace shopping centre.

For kids who want to swim there is Daimon, a good sports club in Parcul Tineretului, where under fives swim for free. There are also pools open to the public at most of the five-star hotels.

Most restaurants in Bucharest are child-friendly, even if the amount of smoke in some of them means that you will probably not want to enter with kids. Those deserving a special mention include the big hotels - all of which have kids’ entertainers during their fabulous brunches - the Hard Rock Cafe: always happy to see kids and which is packed with them at weekends, Phill which has a playground, Osho and Vacamuu, all of which have a great kids’ menu: some offer kids’ activi-ties at weekend lunchtimes.

VENUES

ATHENEUM (ATENEU ROMÂN)The most beautiful building in Romania plays host to the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra as well as a wide range of other top performers. The acoustics are brilliantQC-5, Str. Franklin 1-3, MUniversitate, www.fge.org.ro. Box Office Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 16:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 11:00, 16:00-19:00. Closed Mon.

ARENELE ROMANE QB-7, Str. Cutitul de Argint 26 (Parcul Carol), MEroii Revolutiei.

CLUB COLECTIV QC-7, Str. Tabacarilor 7, www.colectiv.ro.

CLUB CONTROL QC-5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, www.control-club.ro.

HARD ROCK CAFE The home of the best burger in Bucharest doubles up as one of the city’s top live music venues.QA-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, www.hardrock.com/bucharest. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.

MOJO MUSIC CLUBQC-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0760 26 34 96, www.mojomusic.ro.

MUSIC CLUBQC-6, Str. Baratiei 31, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0720 88 71 15, www.music-club.ro. Open 22:00 - 04:00.

ROMEXPOQB-dul Mărăsti 65-67, tel. (+4) 021 207 70 00, www.romexpo.org.

SALA PALATULUI QB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 73 72. Box Office Open Tue-Fri 10:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

SALA POLIVALENTA QB-dul Tineretului 1 (Parc Tineretului/Calea Piscului 10), MTineretului, tel. (+4) 031 425 78 01, www.salapolivalenta.ro.

SALA RADIO The National Radio Orchestra is one of the best in the country and has its very own music hall in the radio building.QB-5, Str. Berthelot 60-64, tel. (+4) 021 314 77 70, www.srr.ro. Box office open 09:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The box office remains open until 20:00 on concert evenings.

SILVER CHURCHQA-5, Calea Plevnei 61, MIzvor, tel. (+4) 0723 37 90 26, www.tscarena.ro.

TURBOHALLEQB-dul Iuliu Maniu 220B, MPacii, tel. (+4) 0733 106 064, www.turbohalle.ro.


Restaurants

AMERICANCHAMPIONS Still serving one of the very best burgers in Bucharest (you can choose one or design your own from an endless choice of toppings), a fact undisputed by any-one we’ve ever met. It is also one of the biggest. In fact, now we think of it, the portions of everything here are enormous: even the children’s servings are very healthy indeed. Besides the burgers you will find a great selection of American pub food, as well as Tex Mex treats and even some more refined, slow food options. Famously good cocktails, and more televisions showing sport than you could ever hope for. Find it in the Marriott: up the stairs as you go in and to your right.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 17, www.championsrestaurant.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTLSW

HARD ROCK CAFE One of the largest Hard Rocks in Eu-rope, you can’t go wrong here, whatever time of day you visit. Come for lunch with the kids (who are always well looked after, and have their own menu), dinner with the crowd from work or late drinks and live music with your mates. All things to all people the burgers and ribs are a cut above the usual, desserts are as outsized and sweet as they should be, and the service comes from smiley wait-resses and expert bar staff. We love it. Let’s rock.QA-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, www.hardrock.com/bucharest. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PLESW

ASIANTHE GANG RESTAURANT The Gang has moved to a new location - closer to the centre of town than before - and is, dare we say it, better than ever. The food - a genu-ine fusion of flavours - is sensational in every way: inven-tion, taste, presentation and quality of ingredients. The jumbo prawns with cauliflower for example: where else will you find such a combination in this town? The place itself is nicely done out: we loved the white wooden floors in particular. Top selection of wines too, courtesy of Ethic Wine.QStr. Alecu Russo 4, tel. (+4) 0721 51 22 91. Open 12:00 - 03:00. €€€€. PLESW

BRITISHTHE TRAFALGAR PUB Popular with all sorts of expats who have a regular rendezvous here, this place is a pub and bistro in one, where you can get a decent meal for little money while enjoying usually decent company. The menu has a few British dishes - we can recommend the Spinach and Stilton Pie - but best of all we like the ciorba de vacuta - one of the best in the city, and the ciolan cu varza - pork knuckle with cabbage and beans. Guinness on draught at a decent price. Accepts Amex: not everywhere in Bucharest does.QC-4, Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel. (+4) 021 211 31 51, www.trafalgarpub.eu. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PLVESW


RestaurantsRestaurants

BUCHAREST BURGERSBucharest has gone burger crazy over the past year or so, and no, we are not referring to McDonald’s or such like. Instead, what we are talking about here are gourmet burgers, made with only the very best beef, cooked to order and served with top quality bread and trimmings, be it French blue cheese or Danish bacon. There are now more than a dozen places serving gourmet burgers in this city, and while a couple of places probably just about stand out as being the best of the best (the Hard Rock Cafe and the Cafe Athenee: would any readers beg to differ?) we can guarantee that all of those we list here will serve you nothing less than a first class burger: Burger Bar (p.65), Cafe Athenee (Athenee Palace Hilton, p.39), Champions (JW Marriott, p.28), Embassy (p.31), Hard Rock Cafe (p.28), The Harp (p.48), Osho (p.44), The Pub (p.73), Vacamuu (p.44).

CHINESEORASUL INTERZIS Bucharest’s first upmarket Chinese restaurant combines all the cuisines of that great country and delivers them to your plate with real aplomb. The menu is adventurous and features all sorts of dishes, such as the first class gong bau duck, the seafood nest and the spicy crab. To get the best out of this place though round up three friends and go for one of the set menus. Tremen-dous value.QD-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 031 425 47 47/(+4) 0720 99 33 33, www.orasul-interzis.ro. Open 12:30 - 24:00. Last food order 23:00. €€€€. PVSW

RESTAURANT NAN JING Dating back to 1980 this little piece of Bucharest history was the first Chinese restaurant in the land. It is still one of the best, as its longevity (no mean feat in a city where good eateries come and go fast) testifies. Prices are reasonable, the setting is good, with a nice cov-ered terrace overlooking busy Bulevardul Lascar Cartagiu. On weekday afternoons from 14:00-17:00 their Happy Lunch offers a 50 per cent discount.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4 (Minerva Hotel), MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 12 85, www.restaurantnanjing.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLVBSW

FINE DININGAD HOC BISTRO Fine dining at a more than reason-able price at the top end of Calea Victoriei. The venue is contemporary, the design minimalist and the food is a rather delicious mix of the old and new: modern twists of classic dishes which always includes a good range of fresh seafood and fish. The menu is as the name suggests: ad hoc, and is chalked up on a blackboard daily. The smart, efficient waiters then quite literally bring the blackboard to your table. It’s a nice touch and very bistro-esque. Well worth a visit.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 214, tel. (+4) 0770 21 42 14. Open 09:00 - 23:30. €€€. PSW

VERANDA CASA FRUMOASASimply put, this one of the top five restaurants in Bucharest. Combining a contemporary setting with fine food, this is a gourmet’s delight. The frequently changing menu is a mix of cuisines and flavours and always - no matter how

often you come - features something new and exciting to try. The conservatory-esque setting is terrific, and there are outstanding wines and champagnes to complement the food.QB-4, Str. Clopotarii Vechi 5, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0733 73 59 32, www.verandacasafrumoasa.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PLSW

FOOD & DRINK18 LOUNGE Lunch or dinner with a view? This is the place to come people. On the 18th floor of one of the tall-est office buildings in the city, this place doesn’t need to serve decent food to attract clients: fortunately, it does. More than just a restaurant the lunch is a great deal, and late in the evening it becomes a smooth, relaxed pace to

hang out. It is also a self-declared anti-fitze establishment (much like its sister locations in the centre of town) and the vibe is always a little trendy but never kitsch. We like it.QA-1, P-ta Presei Libere 3-5, tel. (+4) 0733 50 14 01, www.18lounge.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:30. €€€. PLW

EMBASSY Popular with a wealthy crowd, the central and original Embassy has been around a few years now, and in this city longevity alone is a sign of how good it is. Serving a good gourmet burger - widely regarded as one of the city’s best - and much else besides (including some great cocktails) it is the kind of place that grows on you as the evening wears on, and in all likeliness you will stay until very late. We usually do.QC-4, P-ta Lahovari 8, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 00, www.embassy-club.ro. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Mon 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. €€€. SW

LA BELLE EPOQUE A big, bright and open-plan Belgian beer cafe on Radu Beller in Dorobanti. There are plenty of Belgian beers on offer - with Stella, Leffe and Hoegaarden available on tap - as well as more than a few nice Belgian touches in and around the bar. While the food is more local than Belgian, it is very good, with lots of seasonal specials, and something of a legendary dessert menu.QB-2, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 230 07 70, www.labelleepoque.ro. Open 11:30 - 24:00. Last orders 23:00. €€. PIBW

REOPENS IN MAYTHE GARDENFirst-class terrace to the right of the big hotel. It’s some-thing of an oasis of greenery in the middle of busy Bucha-rest, and there is plenty of room, making it just right for afternoons and evenings with family or friends. Relax and enjoy the rather special homemade ice tea and barbeque food while the kids play in the childrens’ corner: there are all sorts of toys to keep them entertained. We should add



that the service is good, and the prices are more than af-fordable.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 19, www.championsrestaurant.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. In case of bad weather, Champions (inside the hotel) will be happy to welcome you. €€€€. TULBSW

THE HARBOUR A top location in Piata Amzei. The at-mosphere is relaxing, the food better than average, and there is a great view to the market. We came here for lunch recently and were stunned by how many foreigners were eating here: it must be one of the most popular tourist and visitor spots in town.QB-4, P-ta Amzei 10-22, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 319 72 57, www.harbour.ro. Open 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. €€. PLVSW

FRENCHBOUTIQUE DU PAIN Everything you want from a city-centre eatery and a lot more. This is in fact more bistro than anything, serving breakfast, lunch and evening meals in fresh, bright surroundings. The selection of morning pas-tries is the best in the city, with office workers going out of their way to stop here for fresh supplies. For lunch there is a range of sandwiches hard to beat anywhere else, and the small selection of hot meals of an evening - the menu changes daily - are perfect for a casual dinner.QC-5, Str. Academiei 28-30, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 44 33 00, www.boutiquedupain.com. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 8:30 - 20:00. €€. PSW

ESCARGOT BISTRO A little non-descript from the out-side, it is a sensational French restaurant where the love and care the chef has for his food oozes onto your plate. Duck that takes 48 hours to prepare, an onion soup of the like we’ve never eaten in Bucharest, fresh snails, outstand-ing wines and all served in minimalist surroundings: the food is king here. Lovely terrace.QD-4, Str. Toamnei 101, tel. (+4) 0746 79 50 29, www.escargot.ro. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. SW

FRENCH BAKERY LE RESTAURANT The menu fea-tures a number of simple, new-wave French dishes which - for this city - are very well-priced. Excellent wine list which, while featuring a great selection of French wines, for once acknowledges that the New World can make a decent grape too. In short, this place is worthy of your time.QC-5, Str. Nicolae Golescu 17, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 310 33 02, www.frenchbakery.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PESW

ICI ET LA As regular readers will know we are suckers for an open kitchen, and that is what we have here: sit and watch the chef and owner prepare your gorgeous home-made French meal. They are rather proud of their smoked salmon here (and rightly so) and the wine list features plenty of affordable grape. Top it all off with the creme bru-lee.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0731 45 36 08/(+4) 0731 35 26 08, www.icietla.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PVEBSW

ICONIC FOOD WINE & DESIGN BY CAMELIA SUCU This place is the work of David Contant, a chef for whom no Bucharest foodie will need an introduction: he has been creating consistently brilliant food for years. This latest Contant creation is indeed an icon in the making, an eatery in the middle of a design showroom for which he has teamed up with local entrepreneur Camelia Sucu. Expect superb, beautifully presented and supremely healthy food, served in an environment which implores you stick around and indulge a little. There’s a wine bar on the premises too, whose stock is one of the city’s best.QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 7, tel. (+4) 0720 33 35 50, www.iconic-fwd.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. PLSW

LA CANTINE DE NICOLAI Those who know their food know that this place is one of the top ten restaurants in the land. This is French du terroir, where simple yet perfect flavours are allowed to breathe by a gifted chef who cooks for his customers as though he is cooking for his best mates. It is not cheap, but then dishes like scallops with mash potatoes and a truffle and veal sauce never can be. Special.QB-4, Str. Povernei 15-17, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0725 21 06 08, www.lacantinedenicolai.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PSW

L’ATELIER The restaurant at the Hotel Epoque is as fine and elegant as the hotel itself. This is a restaurant where art means putting together original dishes of the highest order, all prepared by the amazing head chef. American Black Angus beef cooked in a Cabernet sauce and served with potato and back truffle puree: you will not find such things on too many menus in Bucharest. For those of you who like your desserts, the lemon cake with caremelized meringue and homemade ice cream is a dream come true. Add in an ambience which is classy, outstanding service and you have one of the city’s finest dining experiences.QB-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C (Epoque Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.latelier-restaurant.ro. Open 12:00 – 23:00. €€€€. PLBSW

GERMANDIE DEUTSCHE KNEIPE Really, one of our favourite places in Bucharest, now as ever (and it has been around for more than 15 years). Serving giant portions of great

German sausages (all made on the premises) as well as pork knuckles, kraut and the like, they keep the prices down and their punters very happy. You usually need a reservation at weekends. Good place for a simple pint of German beer too.QC-3, Str. Stockholm 9, tel. (+4) 021 233 94 62, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€. PNSW

INDIANHAVELI Convincingly authentic Indian cuisine served in a brightly decorated villa, where the sauces are by nature toned down for locals but where chef will - with pleasure - spice things up for the more experienced Indian diner. We like the long list of vegetarian dishes, of which the Bhangan Bharta (aubergine with tomato and onion) is a particular favourite. The onion bhajis are good too, while the lamb rogan josh never fails to hit the spot. Does home delivery too.QD-4, Str. Episcop Radu 3, tel. (+4) 021 211 03 90/(+4) 0721 72 16 40, [email protected], www.haveli.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 19:00 - 23:00. €€€. PLVSW

KARISHMAA good Indian-in-Bucharest option where the menu boasts no fewer than 10 lamb dishes: a rare treat in these parts where the raw material is so hard to find. There is much more besides of course, including an extensive range of vegetarian food, and the chefs will happily tone down (or up) all dishes according to your spice tol-



erance levels. The place itself is nice and the staff know their stuff.QD-5, Str. Iancu Capitanu 36, tel. (+4) 021 252 51 57, www.karishma.ro. Open 13:00 - 24:00. €€€. PVEBSW

INTERNATIONALBARBIZON STEAK HOUSEFound at the Pullman, this is probably the best eatery we’ve been to so far at this particular top-notch hotel. As you would expect, steaks top the bill, and what steaks! All the beef is shipped in fresh from South America, and though prices reflect the quality you will not argue at the end of the evening. Good wine list (we like the inclusion of Moldovan wines) and an open kitchen is always welcome. Great steak-based Saturday brunch: La Boucherie.QA-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest World Trade Cen-ter), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 23:30. Saturday Brunch 11:30-15:30, 190 lei/pers, 90 lei children. Kids under 10 free. €€€€. PLW

BARKA SAFFRON We have been coming here since the last century, when there was precious little choice in Bucharest for people wanting something a little different; a little more spicy. Now there is plenty of choice but we still trot up to Barka whenever we can. On our last visit we went for the lamb with spinach in tomato sauce which was as good as we had hoped. The onion bhajis remain Bucha-rest’s best. First class cocktail list, and regular live music

and arty events. Also of note is that the owner has his own buffalo farm in Transylvania, and sells fantastic buf-falo telemea cheese here at the restaurant.QA-2, Str. Av. Sănătescu 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 10 04. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. ESW

BISTRO MON CHER One of those places that merits praise simply for having been around for so long. We’ve been coming here for years, and have always loved the welcoming atmosphere and simple, tasty bistro food. There is something for everyone, from sandwiches for the lunchtime crowd to good coffee and even hot chocolate for the kids. Leafy terrace in summer.QB-3, Calea Doro-bantilor 20-28, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 211 46 98. Open 08:00 - 06:00. €€€. PVSW

CHEZ MARIE Popular with the crowd from the UK embassy, including the ambassador himself, Chez Marie serves perhaps the widest variety of dishes you are likely to find in a Bucharest restaurant. Both the steak with gor-gonzola and the beef stroganoff are top efforts, while we have long thought that the goulash is one of Bucharest’s very best. Good drinks list and the place itself is rather nice.QC-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 48, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 031 107 20 33, www.chezmarie.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLSW

COLLAGE Opposite the Peasant Museum this is a de-signer restaurant, lounge and bar which opens early enough to be a breakfast venue for late-risers, and let’s

face it, the kind of people who come here are not your average nine to five crowd. It’s arty, it’s smart and it has just the right amount of attitude. And we love the dogs on chains outside keeping the parking spaces for the rich and famous. Lounge that stays open until 03:00 at weekends.QA-3, B-dul Ion Mihalache 10-12, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0758 10 10 40, www.collageworld.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PLEW

DACIA FELIX The Radisson Blu opens its cracking breakfast (possibly the best in the city) to all comers: simply turn up before 10:30, pay your money and fill up for the day.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest. Open 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. €€€. PLEGSW

DONCAFE BRASSERIE Open early for breakfast (they do a decent English fry and delicious pain chocolat) it’s busy throughout the day, ca-tering to lunching ladies and business types as well as a trendy crowd in the evenings. Great salads, a good range of homemade pasta (and we mean homemade: it is put together on the premises), a terrific osso bucco and a divine cheese cake are our fave dishes from the menu. You go pick your own.QB-3, Str. Ankara 7, tel. (+4) 0746 22 24 44, www.doncafe-brasserie.ro. Open 08:30 - 24:00. €€. PLSW

GARGANTUA Bright and airy place that gloriously lets the light in through its huge windows. Fine food, includ-ing a luscious fried brie with onion marmelade, an out-standing chicken and artichoke salad, a couple of duck dishes and good steaks. Prices are more than fair given the location, setting and quality of food. Find it on the corner of Stradas Calderon and Verona.QC-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 69, tel. (+4) 0726 55 56 93, www.restaurantgargantua.ro. Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. PVBSW

LA BRASSERIE Redesigned and reinvented, La Brasse-rie is now less about fine dining (pop over to The Vineyard for that) and more about good quality, simple food for all the family. The menu is available buffet-style or a-la-carte, and makes a great choice for families or groups on the run. The wine list remains a work of art and the atmosphere is now cosier than ever.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. Open 06:00 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30, 177 lei/pers, children between six and 12 years half price, children under six free. €€€. PEGSW

LA CONAC We’ve eaten here a number of times, and on each occasion we’ve left with that rather satisfying feeling which comes from paying far less than you really ought to for some very good food. La Conac (Conac means Manor House in Romanian) is a warm, welcoming restaurant with a huge variety of dishes, all of which hit the spot. It’s rare that such an ambitious menu delivers top quality consis-tently, but La Conac pulls it off. The place itself is a delight,



set over a number of levels, with a big, popular terrace out front in the warmer months.QD-5, B-dul Pache Pro-topopescu 38, tel. (+4) 0737 85 11 03, www.conacul-nobil.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PLBSW

PARIS BUCHAREST BRASSERIE The Pullman’s bright and airy brasserie is open for breakfast and lunch, and offers a huge buffet packed with more than you could possibly eat in one setting. Very good value.QA-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest), tel. (+4) 021 202 16 34, www.pullmanhotels.com. Open 06:00 - 10:00, Tue-Thu 06:00 - 10:00, 12-14:30, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 11:00. €€€. PLGW

PHILL Avant garde to the point of being futuristic, yet unlike so many upmarket restaurants this one positively welcomes families with children. Indeed, so welcome are kids that they have play areas and people to look after the kids while you enjoy the food. Which is another reason to come here: this is a culinary journey around the world. Not one great cuisine has been left out, and in our experience they get everything right. Go for the squid ink risotto, the seafood stew and simple plea-sure of new Zealand lamb chops.QStr. Drumul Potcoavei 120, tel. (+4) 0743 17 20 03, www.phill.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€€€. PLVSW

RESTAURANT 1880 One of the best hotel-based restau-rants in the city is this bright, smart place at the Capital Plaza. The interiors are amongst the most striking in Bucharest, and the food more than matches the surroundings. We adored

the celery soup with scallops, while the seafood risotto was as good as any we’ve eaten in Romania. Well worth a trip.QC-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.restaurant1880.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PBSW

TEATRO Teatro is so-called because the Novotel stands on the former site of Bucharest’s National Theatre, the hotel’s main restaurant is open to all for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Good, inventive food (the menu changes regularly) served in bright, colourful surroundings, with a nice terrace.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 37B (Novotel Bucharest City Centre), MUniversi-tate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 30, www.novotel.com. Open 06:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:00, 190 lei/pers, free for children under 12. €€€€. PTULGW

THE VINYARD The feather in the Crowne Plaza’s cap, this is a work of great detail where everything is lovingly pre-pared by exec chef Ashlie Dias - who has been here for years - and his highly experienced team. Based around Mediter-ranean cuisine you can always expect to find something exotic and a bit different on the daring menu, and a number of the dishes require waiter or diner participation. A treat.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.ro. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. PEW

UPTOWN BAR & GRILL Uptown indeed. In the wealthiest part of the wealthiest part of the city, the city’s wealthiest people come here to eat. The real draw is the

enclosed terrace which means you can eat al fresco even when it’s raining outside. The food is good, a mix of Italian-esque and modern European dishes, which share a menu with an excellent wine list. Prices not cheap but value for money very high. Make sure you reserve well in advance or turn up with a local celebrity if you want a table on the terrace.QB-3, Str. Rabat 2, tel. (+4) 021 231 40 77, www.uptown.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PLBSW

ITALIANCAFFE CITTA Styled as a Northern Italian city centre cafe/bistro the em-phasis here is on good, simple, urban food. Try the risotto with saffron, the saltim bocca and the tiramisu: all signature dishes and all done to perfection. The drinks menu is a bit special: go for the apple mojito (as delicious as it sounds) or try any number of great wines, all available by the glass. Keep the kids happy with the freshly made ice cream.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 601 34 36, www.caffe-citta.ro. Open 11:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PLGBW

CAPRICCIOSAA bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria whose menu is a veritable dictionary of pizza. They even do truffles and, let’s face it, you don’t see those every day on a menu in Bu-charest. Well worth making the journey uptown for both the food and the atmosphere, which demonstrates that top restaurants don’t have to be fitze.QB-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 2, tel. (+4) 021 233 06 35/(+4) 0722 22 47 99 (+) 0723 26 90 30, [email protected], www.restaurantcapricciosa.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLSW

CUCINABright and breezy, Cucina at the JW Marriott is a wonder-ful Italian restaurant where you can find probably the best (and perhaps only) butterfish steak in the city. All of the other fine Italian dishes are equally memorable, and note that all of the pasta is homemade on the premises No few-er than 26 good Italian reds grace the wine menu.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand

Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 02, www.cucinarestaurant.ro. Open 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PLESW

MODIGLIANI PASTA/CARNE Amazingly good res-taurant. Boasting top chef Alfonso Salvaggio in the kitch-en, there is a new menu and the Italian stakes continue to get ratcheted up another notch, all to the benefit of us diners. All the pasta here is made fresh, the meat is the fin-est Argentine and Scottish beef or New Zealand lamb, and the wine is a selection of the best the world has to offer.QC-5, Str. Batistei 9 (InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0730 64 48 06. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PLBW



NONNA MIA Looks the part, feels the part and - when the food arrives - you will know that it tastes the part too. Very good Italian food, from treats such as rabbit in a glo-rious wine sauce to fresh pasta made right here on the premises, as well as choice cuts of top imported salamis and cheese. Good range of wines at all prices, and the ser-vice is a cut above the Bucharest norm.QC-3, Str. Chile 10, tel. (+4) 0728 60 22 83, www.nonnamia.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Also at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 52, tel. (+4) 021. 313 00 21, Open daily 08:00 - 22:00. €€€. PESW

ROBERTO’S & LA STRADA A fabulous place, boasting an open kitchen, three distinct dining areas and a private dining room. The food is classical, with the menu boasting the best dishes from a number of Italian regions. It’s not cheap, but prices reflect the high quality, and note that the lunchtime set menu is in fact very competitively priced. In a nutshell, it’s worth every penny: this is one of the top five restaurants in the land. Roberto’s is also the home of the Hilton’s now legendary and not-to-be-missed Sunday Brunch, while in summer the La Strada terrace is the city's best.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, fax (+4) 021 315 21 21. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch from 13:00-16:30, 155 lei/pers. €€€€. PTGSW

TRATTORIA DON VITO RISTORANTEThey get a lot right here. Excellent salads, and the seafood-packed signature Don Vito pasta was memorable. There is

NEWZAITOONE What have lovers of Lebanese food done to deserve so much quality choice? Here is another winner, a spacious, elegant place and the food more than lives up to the surroundings. There are loads of good mezze, and the grilled meats and kebabs are exemplary. For dessert, the katayef are delicious: they even do a small portion if you can’t handle the full one! Oh, and note that they ac-cept Amex cards (not many places in Bucharest do).QStr. Virgil Madgearu 25-27 (Persepolis Complex), tel. (+4) 0737 29 99 00, www.zaitoone.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLVSW

MEDITERRANEANCERISIERS We attended a Christening at this place re-cently, and were blown away by the quality of the food: really outstanding. The seafood and fish dishes are the best of what’s on the menu, but there is more than that to enjoy: try the cracking salads or the beef carpaccio. As for the rooftop terrace, there is no more romantic place to eat in the city.QA-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 0722 59 98 05, www.restaurantcerisiers.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PLBSW

JOSEPH BY JOSEPH HADAD This is an outstanding place in every way: not only is the food sensational but the villa in which it is served is also something of a Bucharest treasure. In brief, this is as good as modern, contempo-rary dining gets in this city and a visit here is worth every

penny.QB-2, Str. Prof. Dr. Ioan Cantacuzino 8, MAvia-torilor, tel. (+4) 0753 99 93 33, www.josephrestaurant.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PLSW

OLIVIERS Can a hotel restaurant be this good? Yes. The ambitious owners of the Residence hotel are very keen to promote their excellent restaurant, and with good reason. A small but perfectly formed dining room is the setting for a tantalising menu of Oriental, Mediterranean and lo-cal dishes. The gourmet menu (for two) is outstanding.QA-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 0733 10 91 37, www.restaurantoliviers.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€€. PLW

SHARKIA Sharkia blows in to the Radisson like the epony-mous wind and brings with it some top class dining at the hotel’s latest restaurant. What we have here is a dining room where the focus is on Eastern Mediterranean food, the fresh-est seasonal ingredients and supremely healthy eating. You can feast on a great range of dishes from across the region, there are some fine wines and it’s all done with that Radisson swish.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PLG

MODERN EUROPEANCAFE ATHENEE We love it. This is Bucharest’s village pub, where the city comes to meet and have a terrific breakfast, lunch or early dinner. The new breakfast menu offers something for everyone, from a full English to nasi goreng, while the legendary Hilton burger remains one

pizza too, the sweets are delicious and the place itself is decked out well without ever overdoing it. Well worth a look. Note that downstairs is a totally non-smoking section. Commendable.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 1, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.trattoriadonvito.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PSW

JAPANESEYOSHI Sushi and teppanyaki - and more besides - at the best new Japanese restaurant to open in Bucharest for some time. Located in upmarket Dorobanti it is not cheap (good Japanese food rarely is) but it is very good and the set-menu at lunchtime is excellent value. The place itself is spacious and very contemporary, and the perfect setting for a meal of this quality.QStr. Banul Antonache 40-44, tel. (+4) 0749 97 95 21, www.restaurantyoshi.ro. Open 12:00 - 00:00. €€€€. PVSW

LEBANESECHEZ TONI Terrific Lebanese food in the leafy, away-from-it-all setting of the Pescariu Tennis and Sports Club. All your Middle Eastern favourites are here, from Antaki, Adana and Beiti kebabs to sujuk (those tangy, spicy little sausages) and simple yet perfectly grilled sea bass (and a ton of other fresh fish). Everything is cooked by the resident Lebanese chef.QC-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021 242 02 04, www.cheztoni.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLBSW

NEWFOUR SEASONS DOROBANTI From the same people who have long been serving some of the best Lebanese food in the city at their Vasile Lascar location comes Four Sea-sons Dorobanti, a more upmarket place to indulge yourself. The food is fabulous and features the full range of Lebanese food, including one of the best selections of mezze in the city. There are grilled meats and fish too, while vegetarians will also find plenty to tempt them with. Make sure you try the superb Lebanese yoghurt - made with mint and garlic - and the amazing homemade lemonade.QB-3, Calea Doro-bantilor 177, tel. (+4) 021 233 94 31, www.four-seasons.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Also at (C-4) Str. Vasle Lascar 81, tel. (+40) 21 212 29 92. €€€. PBSW



of the best in the city. There is also a bites menu of sub-stantial finger food for executive snacking, and a bigger, wider range of beers, wines and cocktails then ever, which is why it is now as popular as an after-work venue as it is at lunchtime.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hil-ton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. Open 08:00-20:00. €€€. PESW

PRIME STEAKS & SEAFOOD Boasting a menu put together by Executive Chef Bernd Kirsch, who has been in charge of the kitchen here since Prime opened more than five years ago, what is perhaps Bucharest’s best restaurant recently got better. Now serving the finest fillet steak in the world (the Irish Hereford Prime - which we can tell you, as we have eaten it, is amazing), we can also recommend the duet of foie gras with raspberry mousse and caremel-ized pineapple, the grilled scallops and the lobster bisque. (And just about everything else). It’s genuinely amazing this place, and worth every last penny.QB-4, Calea Victo-riei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.prime-restaurant.ro. Open 12:30-15.00, 18.00-23.00, Sat 18:00-23:00. Closed Sun. €€€€. PLG

MOLDOVANLA PLACINTE Popular Moldovan chain of eateries (there are more than 10 of these restaurants in Chisinau) comes to the centre of Bucharest. Charmingly decorated in a bril-liant mix of traditional and hip you will love it the moment you walk in. The food is good, and as the name suggests (placinte means pies) there is a big range of pie on offer: potatoe pie, cheese pie, pumpkin pie and even apple pie. They are all good, made fresh (so you might have to wait a bit) and come served piping hot. There is much else be-sides, including the entirely recommended pelmeni.QB-4, B-dul Dacia 20, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 031 410 80 21, www.laplacinte.ro. Open 10.00 - 23.00. €€. PSW

PERUVIANNEWPERU BISTRO Fed up with hearing about new dining concepts in Bucharest which turn out to be nothing of the sort? Well, here is something genuinely new and different:

Peruvian cuisine. A fusion of South American and Asian you will find superb beef and pork steaks on the menu alongside some good fish. We were blown away by the beef served in a slightly spicy orange sauce (lomo salsa aji) while the Leche assado is the perfect desert. The place itself is very nice: a large villa in the leafy north of the city with a huge, gorgeous terrace at the rear.QA-2, Str. Aviator Pe-tre Creţu 63, tel. (+4) 0744 62 42 97, www.perubistro.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PLVBSW

ROMANIANBISTRO LA TAIFAS La Taifas means ‘having a chat’ and that’s exactly what you and your friends will feel like doing at this tres jolie venue. We remain convinced that the origi-nal venue behind the Hilton on Str. Episcopiei was better, but this latest location is more spacious, and hosts more regular musical soirees. The food is great, and booking is still essential, especially if you want to sit on the terrace in good weather.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 16, tel. (+4) 021 212 77 88, www.bistrotaifas.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PLVESW

CASA DOINA Alma mater of Romanian restaurants, an integral part of the city’s rich tapestry. This classy place pulls in the cream of Bucharest society, served by charm-ing, splendid waiters in smart dress. The food is superb, and in a city where standards rise only to fall so often, Casa Doina can be considered a paragon of consistency. Boasts

a large, gorgeous leafy terrace in the right weather.QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 4, tel. (+4) 021 222 67 17, www.casadoina.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PLEBSW

CORSO BRASSERIE & TERRACE We brought our mother-in-law here recently to try out the sarmale , and after careful consideration she admitted that they were even better than her own: now that’s high praise indeed. In a top location, if this place doesn’t occupy the very best people-watching spot in the whole of the city, then we don’t know where does. Open for breakfast, lunch (usually an excellent-value buffet) and dinner, it is seriously good. Oh, and then there is the Sunday Brunch: currently the best in the city.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 06:30 - 11:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 11:00. 12:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 175 lei/pers, children un-der six free, children between six and 12 half price. €€€. PTLEBW

GOOD OLD TIMES (GOLDEN TULIP TIMES HO-TEL) A very good restaurant indeed. Featuring a very good range of Romanian and international dishes, the menu here changes regularly, usually in time with the sea-sons. The young chef is not afraid to try something new and different and note that if you fancy something which is not on the menu, don’t be afraid to ask. Good local wine list. Note the last kitchen order is at 22:30.QE-6, B-dul De-cebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, [email protected], www.restauranttimes.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PLGSW

LA SIPOTE (PULLMAN BUCHAREST WORLD TRADE CENTER) Oh yes. Another Romanian restaurant of the new school (this one at the Pullman) where the accent is on fine local food made with the best ingredients brought direct from the country’s finest producers. The place is dedicated to Ciprian Porumbescu, a 19th century composer born in the town of Sipotele Sucevei (from whence the name).QA-1, P-ta Montreal 10, tel. (+4) 021 202 16 30, www.pullmanhotels.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€€. PLW

LOCANTA JARISTEA This is that rarity in Bucharest (and indeed Romania): an upmarket Romanian restaurant. The surroundings, location, exquisitely decorated dining rooms, service and choice of high quality food will con-vince you of that. This is one of very few places in Romania where you can enjoy an entire suckling pig (though note that you will need to phone ahead and ask them to start preparing it a day in advance) and sample some of the best vintage wines Romania has ever produced.QB-6, Str. George Georgescu 50-52, tel. (+4) 021 335 33 38, www.jaristea.ro. Open 11:00 - 02:00. €€€€. PLESW

ROSSETYA Rossetya is a restaurant which tries harder than most to take Romanian cuisine to new levels. As such, this is as upmarket as Romanian food can get, and the beef dishes here are especially good. Try the sote de



vacuta aromat cu cognac: tender beef sauteed in cognac with mushrooms and tomatoes. Also worth trying is the iahnie de fasole: a Romanian bean stew that packs some-thing of a kick and proof that Romanian does do vegetarian food.QC-5, Str. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 805 91 99/(+4) 0748 22 02 20, [email protected], www.rossetya.ro. Open 11:00 - 23:30. €€. PSW

SEAFOOD & FISHCHERHANAUA ANCORA Cherhana in Romanian means ‘fishery’, so you will already know what to expect here: fine fish and seafood. The inte-rior is rather special: bright and contemporary, with more than a hint of local flavour. In a city now boasting more than a few seriously good interiors, this is up with the best of them. The food is very good too, from simple yet bril-liantly executed local fish dishes (hamsii, carp and pike) to more exotic fish shipped in direct from the Mediterranean and beyond: sea bass, prawns, fresh tuna and much more. We should add that there are some fine meat choices for those who are not fish fans. Desserts as good as every-thing else.QB-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 0721 33 55 55, www.ancora-cherhana.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLSW

FISHBONE LUNCH & PUBAnother fish restaurant more than worth the name adds itself to the growing list of such establishments in Bucha-

rest. Well prepared, fresh fish in bright, modern surround-ings with a great selection of side dishes and plenty of cracking wine to wash it all down with. Good lunchtime deals and friendly, happy staff ready to make your time here memorable. Certainly one of our fave places to open this year.QC-4, Str. Gen. Ernest Brosteanu 2, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0721 98 28 48, www.fishbonegrill.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€€. PESW

LA PESCADORA decent seafood eatery close to the city centre. The place is nice, although it can feel a little dark inside (especially during the sunnier months) as the windows are not huge, so try and grab a seat on the small terrace if you can (make a reservation). What we like best is the lunchtime deal, one of the best value in the city and the only we know of which features a decent bit of fish. Top marks.QD-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 181, tel. (+4) 0768 92 49 60, www.lapescador.ro. Open 10:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. PLVBSW

LA VERANDAOne of three superb restaurants at the Crowne Plaza. This one is housed inside a glass terrace offering wonderful views of the garden outside: a joy in any weather. It serves deceptively simple yet exquisite fish and sea food as fresh as the day it was caught, and the chef will happily cook to order.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. Open 06:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 11:30, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PLEW

SLOW FOODBEAUTYFOOD Love it. Another brilliant little Slow Food venue pops up in Bucharest, this time on the site of the old Violeta’s. Check the blackboard for what’s on the menu - if they have it we can recommend the burger with the home fries. Always has a good lunchtime deal on: two delicious courses usually priced around 20 lei.QC-5, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 34, tel. (+4) 0759 03 06 09, www.beauty-food.ro. Open 9:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. €€.

METUKA Slow Food in every sense of the phrase: the food is sea-sonal, all prepared fresh, and made from locally-sourced ingredients. The menu changes every day, but there is always a good choice for either lunch or dinner (soups, finger food and more substantial dishes), as well as some terrific desserts. Well worth a visit.QB-4, B-dul Lascar Catargiu 7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0734 16 57 46. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €€. PVSW

THE LONDON STREET BISTRO The London Street Atelier has been making delicious home-made food for those in the know for a while, and now there is this rather super little bistro to go with it. Expect a menu that changes weekly, fresh, seasonal ingredients and a whole host of inventive treats you will not find elsewhere (we were lucky enough to hit upon some Feteasca Neagra

sausages). Not as expensive as it probably should be, there’s a great set lunch deal each day which includes - unlike many others in this town - a glass of wine. Has a wonderful seclud-ed terrace at this time of year, set back from the traffic with a deck and plenty of greenery.QC-3, Str. Putul Lui Zamfir 15, tel. (+4) 0736 93 35 31, www.thelondonstreetatelier.com. Open 09:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. €€€. VBW

VIOLETA’S BISTRO Traditional and modern Romanian food (the cook is not afraid to experiment) with more than a nod towards the vegetarian served off a menu that changes regularly. You can check the latest menu online (it is always up to date) and then decide if you fancy anything before set-ting off. Chances are you will spot plenty you like. The brunch from 11:00-16:00 on Saturdays is excellent value at 80 lei per person: kids under seven are free. The place itself is lovely, and the staff wonderful.QD-6, Str. George Ionescu-Gion 9, tel. (+4) 0722 52 56 43, www.violetas.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. €€€. PGBSW

SPANISHLA RAMBLA Spanish food as it well and truly should be: it’s not often you can write that in Bucharest. From an expert gazpacho to a paella made in Heaven to the most superb piece of salted cod, everything we have ever eaten here has been first class. It helps of course that the ingredients are all the real thing: the hams, olives and just about everything else is shipped in direct from Spain. Oh, and the Sangria?


CafésRestaurants

of them are well worth trying. Great desserts too.QC-5, Str. Hristo Botev 18-20, tel. (+4) 021 314 28 25, www.goldenfalcon.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLSW

URBAN CONTEMPORARYRESTAURANT MADAME POGANYFine, upmarket yet casual restaurant of the new school in Floreasca/Dorobanti. The spacious, modern, well-lit din-ing room gives you a real sense of grandeur without ever becoming kitsch: a trick few have managed to pull off in Bucharest. There is little point telling you about the food as the menu changes almost daily: what we can say is that whatever you order you are likely to be happy with it. This is a great restaurant.QC-3, Str. Banu Antonache 40-44, tel. (+4) 0744 10 56 13, www.madamepogany.ro. Open 09:00 - 00:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. €€€. PLSW

VEGETARIANCASA SATYA The concept is Ayurveda, as in the pseudo-scientific sys-tem of natural healing. Food wise, that means everything here is meat free, and made with only organic ingredients. That does not mean forgoing taste: the delicious chutneys served with the poppadoms will convince you of that right from the off. The toilets by the way are amazing, and as you might expect, it is totally non-smoking.QA-3, B-dul Banu Manta 25, tel. (+4) 0736 39 25 87, www.satya.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PVGBSW

BUCHAREST CAFESARISTOCATS BISTRO Charming, in a word. Set in a gor-geous old Bucharest house it’s like a coffee shop and tea house and bistro and much more besides. Huge big omelettes for breakfast, soups at lunchtime, freshly made pasta for dinner: the menu changes all the time so just ask what’s good the day you go. Oh, and they have muffins, wonderful muffins. It’s also licensed so you can have a beer or cocktail.QC-5, Str. Teodor Stefanescu 1, tel. (+4) 0758 90 05 82. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PLSW

CAFE TIMES Free Wifi with your (excellent) coffee and a can-do attitude from the staff who appear to realise that sometimes people are busy, and need their coffee double quick. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise that... Hav-ing said that, this is the kind of laid-back place that you end up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter how busy you are.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 031 224 80 16, www.cafetimes.ro. Open 07:30 - 24:00. PLESW

CAFE VERONA Sublime. The brilliant Carturesti book-shop has long served coffee with its books, and now there is wine; and cocktails too. And if there is a better place to drink coffee this close to the centre of Bucharest than this place then we know not of it. For long lazy afternoons or laid-back evenings with friends it is great, while for brunch it makes a brilliant (and bargain) alternative to the big, ex-pensive hotels. Always packed, a reservation is a good idea.

More than worthy a jug or two.QStr. Grigore Alexandres-cu 8, tel. (+4) 0765 55 58 33, [email protected], www.larambla.ro. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PVEBSW

STEAK HOUSESJW STEAKHOUSE BUCHAREST The JW Marriott hosts one of Bucharest’s best chophouses: the JW Steakhouse, only the second such signature venue to open in Europe. You can expect a very American steak-house experience, right down to the Black Angus beef imported from the US. The Tomahawk steak - weighing in at nearly a kilo - is the pick of the steaks, but there is much more besides, including broiled lobster and Australian lamb chops. There is a great selection of new world wines, and they open early for breakfast.QB-6, Calea 13 Sep-tembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), MIz-vor/Eroilor, tel. (+4) 021 403 19 03, www.jwsteakhouse.ro. Open 06:30 - 11:00, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 06:30 - 11:00, 18:30 - 23:30. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 210 lei/pers, children between six and twelve half price, children under six free. €€€€. PLESW

OSHO This is a butcher’s shop and restaurant serving T-bone steaks you would scream for in the dark. There is more than steak on the menu though, such as a top burger (which comes in three sizes), tangy lamb chops and an outstanding selection of fresh fish. Plus, there’s a kid’s menu. We also have to admit to being pleasantly surprised

about the prices: given the location (this is Beverly Hills, Bucharest) they are more than reasonable considering you get the best of the best. Packed at lunchtime.QB-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021 568 30 31, www.osho-restaurant.ro. Open 10:30 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PVBSW

VACAMUUU Currently the most talked-about chophouse in the city. Serving a range of steaks so wide and so good that even the most jaded of beefeaters will be drooling, you can also feast on lamb, veal and pork chops, while the burgers are a match for anywhere else. There is a kid’s menu, and the weekend all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet is top value. Most of the meat can be bought to take home and cook yourself should you wish, and then there’s the wine list: a surprise we will let you discover yourself.QC-3, Calea Floreasca 111, tel. (+4) 0731 35 11 35, www.vacamuuu.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTSW

THAIKUNNAI At last, place for those of us who have been craving something Thai since Moods closed a while ago now. This place is terrific, found on the ground floor of a new apartment block in a leafy northern part of Bucharest. The food is the real deal, of which the food will convince you immediately. We had the Pla Praew Waan fish stir-fry followed by the prawn Phad Thai: both were sensational and well worth the money (it’s good value if not exactly cheap). Get there now.QStr. Copilului 6, tel. (+4) 0722 68 73 43/(+4) 0722 68 74 54, www.kunnai.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00 Last kitchen order 23:00. €€€€. PTLSW

TURKISHGOLDEN FALCONStill the greatest kebab house in the land, and still pack-ing in the punters who come back time and again. There are no menus here: instead the waitresses will parade a trolley-full of meze before you to pick from, before com-ing round with the kebabs: pick which one you want then send it to be cooked in the open kitchen. We usually always go for the lamb kebabs, but in our experience all


NightlifeCafés

BARSBucharest’s bars generally fall in one of three groups: Cock-tail & Quirky where you will mainly find good cocktails, a laid-back atmosphere and the odd quirky feature, Upmar-ket (often hotel-based) bars for business folk and those looking to impress their dates, and Wine Bars, where fine grape is the order of the day.

COCKTAILS & QUIRKYBAR A1A little bit of everything in a very nice package. Food (in-cluding breakfast), drink (the milkshakes are fab, there is a range of rather unusual beers, while the wine selection is better than your average wine bar) and cakes that would shame most bakeries. The place itself is delightfully chic in that slightly shabby way, and the crowd that meets here is equally relaxed. You will love the place.QB-4, Str. Piata Amzei 1, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0723 12 48 47. Open 8:00 - 00:30. NS

INTERBELIC Having moved from its hidden location in the Old Town you could have forgiven this now legendary bar for going mainstream: the good news it that it hasn’t. Interbelic still has that speakeasy feel, like a well-kept secret amongst people in the know. The new location is bigger, serves food, has live music some evenings but is still first choice to bring somebody you really want to impress with your insider’s knowledge of Bucharest.QC-6, Calea Vic-toriei 17, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 10 01 93, www.interbelic.ro. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PENW

RAMAYANA CAFE Looking like a cross between a Ma-haraja’s bedroom and the most luxurious hotel in Delhi, this cafe and cocktail bar is quite frankly unique. You will not find anywhere better in Bucharest quite so startling in design, nor will you find a better place to bring a secret date for a little tete-a-tete. With more nooks and crannies than your grandmother’s country house, pull up a cushion, sup on a hookah pipe and drink a green tea. Exceptional.QA-5, Str. Baldovin Parcalabul 11, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317 16 81, www.ramayana.ro. Open 24 hrs. PESW

UPMARKETENGLISH BAR One of our regular haunts. This little corner of the Hilton that will forever be associated with intrigue and spies (it has been around for nearly a century, as long as the hotel) remains today a classy bar serving champagne by the glass and much else besides (including a tremendous pint of Guinness). Packed most days with business leaders it also regularly hosts sophisticated parties, and on some Thursday nights this little bar becomes the most happening venue in town, a favourite of Bucharest’s fashionistas. Essential.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77 ext. 6759. Open 11:00 - 02:00. PLW

INTERMEZZO PIANO BAR Legendary and rather his-toric hotel bar in the lobby of the Inter, which was a den of iniquity and intrigue during the communist period, all spies and journalists, plots and honey traps. Now it’s merely a very cool place to meet and have a drink in superb surroundings. Another one of the many reasons why the InterContinental is once again one of the top places in Bucharest to spend time.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW

PAVILION LOUNGE The JW Marriott’s bar is a suitably stylish and contemporary venue boasting one of the most elegant bars in the city. There are various seating areas, from the stools at the bar to comfy sofas and armchairs. Throw in a top cocktail list and great staff and it all means that the city’s other business bars have some real competi-tion at last. Top stuff.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 04, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. PLEW

BEERHALLBERARIE GAMBRINUS One of the most celebrated and historic pubs in Bucharest - haunt, for decades, of Caragiale, Gica Petrescu and every other local carouser - returns, as something of a Heineken-pub. There is Romanian beer on tap though, Gambrinus, Silva and Ciuc, available by the metre if that’s what you fancy. There’s some good pub grub too, not least the sausages which were terrific.QB-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0744 31 51 10, www.berariegambrinus.ro. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PSW

PUBSENERGIEA We like this place a lot: the high ceilings and big windows make it a good choice day and night, the original floor looks great and there are a number of different rooms, not all of which carry the industrial-chic look of the main bar. Best of all though we like the raised interior bal-cony. Top cocktail-sipping territory.QB-6, Str. Brezoianu 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736 37 44 32, www.energiea.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PLBSW

QC-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 60, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 24:00. PSW

CAMERA DIN FATA One of the best cafes to open in Bu-charest for years. The name means ‘Front room’, and being here is in many ways just like being somebody’s front room. Great coffee and tea served in great mugs from gorgeous tea pots at tables which fill up early as the world pops in for espresso on its way to work. Lovely.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 22, tel. (+4) 021 311 15 12, www.cameradinfata.ro. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PSW

COFTALE Much more than being merely a very good cafe, this gorgeous place serves some of the best light meals and finger food you will eat in Bucharest. The veg-etable spring rolls for example: amazing. The coffee is reas-suringly wonderful, the hot chocolate with marshmallows a legend in the making, and the desserts and cakes more than tempting. It’s well worth looking out for this place.QD-5, Str. Stefan Mihaileanu 42, tel. (+4) 0748 84 86 78, www.coftale.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PAESW

GREEN TEA We know that there have been tea houses in Bucharest before, but none were ever like this. A gorgeous villa whose many rooms have all been lovingly decorated in a different theme (one is like your favourite Gran’s front room, another is like a country house) the list of teas avail-able is as long as your arm. Some are very exotic indeed. And yes, besides taking tea here, you can buy just about all of the teas in the shop.QD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 24, tel. (+4) 021 320 93 96, www.greentea.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PGSW

KAFETERYA CAFE We know people who co e here so often, and spend so much time here, that they should probably be paying rent. It is that kind of place: a friendly, local cafe serving top coffee, cocktails, light meals, salads and desserts to die for (the waffles are probably the best in Bucharest). It’s packed with comfy sofas and armchairs, and we can guarantee that one visit will not be enough.QB-5, Str. Schitu Magureanu 8, MIzvor, tel. (+4) 0726 22 25 67, www.kafeterya.ro. Open 07:30 - 24:00. PESW

LA GALETTE Classy cafe and patisserie at the Pullman, a popular choice with guests and office workers from the World Trade Center. The range of pastries is just about sec-ond to none in Bucharest, while the coffees are great value for what is after all a five-star hotel.QA-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00/(+4) 021 202 16 33, www.pullmanhotels.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PBSW

ORIGO A contender for the title of best coffee shop in Bucharest. This place is all about great coffee from all over the world, as well as a fairly decent selection of tea too. Many of the more exotic coffees can be bought by the packet to make at home, and the design of the place is

not too shabby either: the coffee cups hanging down over the bar are a nice touch. There’s relaxing music, cocktails and - here comes the big news - inside it is totally non-smoking.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 9, tel. (+4) 0757 08 66 88. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PGSW

READERS CAFE This place is one of the great things about the Metropo-lis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites and Loft restaurant also form part. You will find Readers on the ground floor, a modern, bright and well-lit space where you can read, drink great coffee or eat - far better than you would ex-pect. The breakfast is terrific, the sandwiches tasty and well-filled, the salads big and the pasta light. Live music most evenings (early evening) and well separated smok-ing and non-smoking sections. Nice.QB-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0737 32 33 77, www.readerscafe.ro. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PLESW

SUBSOL BAR Perhaps the most iconic building in Bucharest. Inside the shell of an old house destroyed during the 1989 revolution a new building has risen, home - fittingly - to Romania’s architectural association. The cafe and bar which occupies part of the building is more than worthy of its location, a contemporary space with walls decorated with scenes from the revolution, where you can enjoy coffee and cock-tails in the company of a good young crowd. There are tasty sandwiches too, which can be taken away if you are in a hurry.QC-5, Str. Demetru Ion Dobrescu 5, MUniver-sitate, tel. +(4) 021 315 60 98, www.subsolbar.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PSW

TONKA SOUL CAFEThis place has indeed got soul, and plenty else besides. Warm and quiet coffee house by day, it becomes the per-fect aperitivo spot when the sun goes down, then gets really wild as the music gets louder and the hours get shorter. There’s a good internet cafe in the basement.QB-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 19, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0723 44 80 80, [email protected], www.tonka.ro. Open 24hrs. PRESW

VIENNA LOUNGEThe Marriott’s posh flagship café, which is exactly as you’d expect: classy, enjoyable and expensive. Sit and try to read those unmanageable newspapers on a stick, while enjoying the occasional live piano music, plus the sight of business types buzzing about to conferences. What’s more fun than leisurely watching others work when you don’t have to?QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Mar-riott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 01, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 23:00. PLESW


NightlifeNightlifeis it has become rather popular again. If you want a table (especially at the weekend) make a reservation.QC-6, Str. Bibescu Voda 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 55 44 55, www.theharp.ro. Open 08:30 - 02:00. PEW

CLUBS & DISCOSAs a general rule, Bucharest’s clubs can be divided into three categories (as we have): the upmarket, Uber-Clubs, where the trendy, fashionable and well-heeled go to party, Student & Underground clubs where you will find a mainly local crowd of young partygoers, and Live Music clubs which host live bands most nights of the week. There is a fair bit of crossover of course, but we think these three categories describe the city’s club scene reasonably well.

LIVE MUSICCHAOS Smashing live music club. Expect good - mainly local but often foreign - live acts most nights of the week, with a reasonably big name performing at least once or twice a month. Good beer, a very good atmosphere and a real favourite of big groups of friends looking for a great night out. You can eat here too: there’s a restaurant serv-ing some terrific, big-portioned Romanian food on site.QE-6, Str. Turturelelor 11, tel. (+4) 0731 49 51 14, www.facebook.com/chaos.venue. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PLEBSW

CONTROL CLUB Still tops our list of ‘clubs for people who do not like clubs.’ It is a brilliant place where there is always something going on, be it a DJ or live music sup-plied by one of Bucharest’s better live acts. Note also that it opens early afternoon: it is now a pub as much as a club, and when the weather is good enough it has a smart ter-race. Fantastic.QC-5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversi-tate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, www.control-club.ro. Open 13:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 06:00. PEW

MUSIC CLUB A live music venue where you’ll find a great resident band most evenings performing creditable covers of all your favourite classic hits. They are more often than not joined on stage in the early hours by leading Ro-manian musicians who have quickly made this place their preferred haunt. Very nice indeed: be prepared to have a very good time.QC-6, Str. Baratiei 31, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0720 88 71 15, www.music-club.ro. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PEW

TRIBUTE Besides a fantastic resident band, Tribute is also regularly host to a number of the best live acts in the busi-ness, who love the atmosphere provided by a great crowd and wonderful acoustics. Basically, if the excitement of live music is what you are looking for, this is one first class venue. Bang in the city centre (it’s on Calea Victoriei) it’s a great choice if you are stuck in a downtown pub thinking about where to move on to.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4) 0728 74 28 83, www.tribute.ro. Open 22:00 - 06:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW

HAPPY PUBWhat could be termed as a good, solid, no frills pub that eschews clutter and trendy crap and concentrates on the beer, the cocktails and treating its customers well. There’s a regular crowd of locals and foreigners, and it’s the kind of place where you never feel too young or too old. Top se-lection of brews (including several imported British beers and stouts), decent music and bar food. We like it.QB-4, Str. Caderea Bastiliei 36, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0729 89 27 68/(+4) 0736 33 76 06, www.happypub.ro. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. PSW

LA CALDERON 80With its wooden interior, inoffensive music and gangs of young people clustered around big tables, La 80 does much to distinguish itself from a swathe of similar estab-lishments. Reasonable food and prices, and this little place opposite Gradina Icoanei is a nice retreat from more frantic venues elsewhere.QC-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 80, tel. (+4) 021 212 48 86/(+4) 0728 92 06 20, www.lacalderon80.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. PBSW

PRIMUS Big pub that goes a long way towards convinc-ing us that we do not need to go to Old Town to find a decent drinker in Bucharest. From the very good attempt at an English breakfast to a decent pint of both Guinness and Kilkenny you can add their own beer, Primus, a decent-tasting bargain. The huge windows make it feel much like a street cafe. Service is good too, and we love the retro-style black and white tiled floor.QB-5, Str. George En-escu 3, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 22 26 66, www.primuspub.ro. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PBW

SHIFTIt’s doubtful that you’ve seen anything like this place in Bu-charest before. Shift is a Bohemian restaurant/bar/club of some style. It is, in a word, gorgeous, and has been packed since opening day with the hippest and coolest people in the land. Late at night this is the smartest chill-out venue in the city, and we (and just about everybody else) love it.QC-4, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17, tel. (+4) 021 211 22 72, [email protected], www.shiftpub.ro. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. PSW

WHITE HORSEThe White Horse has been around so long it should prob-ably consider going out to stud. Or should it? On a recent visit we found it to be in surprisingly good shape, and packed with both locals of the ‘ordinary people’ variety, as well as group of rowdy expats. There is still good food in the more formal part upstairs, with bar snacks served down. We have always loved the square bar.QB-3, Str. George Călinescu 4A, tel. (+4) 021 231 27 95, [email protected], www.whitehorse.ro. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PBSW

IRISH PUBSDUBLINERLegendary boozer in the sense that it was the first real pub to open in Bucharest (back in 1995). Unchanged in years the Dubliner remains a favourite of many old school ex-pats, although the location makes it a bit of a trek for Old Town or city centre-based visitors. Serves a good chicken pie and English breakfast, an exemplary Guinness and of-fers a wide range of sports courtesy of Sky TV.QA-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 18, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 260 26 78. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PBSW

THE HARP IRISH PUB & RESTAURANTThe Harp is back, and is better than ever before. In fact, if you haven’t been here for a while you might hardly recog-nise the place. Set over two levels, with two great bars, the Guinness is as exemplary as ever, and the food is fabulous, a cut above your usual pub grub and bordering on the out-standing. The enormous burger they have started serving here might be a contender for the city’s biggest. There is live music some nights, and be warned: as big as this place

CASINOS

CASINO BUCHARESTQC-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 4 (InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 83 38 28, www.casinobucharest.ro. Open 18:00 - 06:00.

GRAND CASINOQB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 08 00, www.grandcasinoromania.com. Open 24 hrs.

METROPOLIS CASINOQB-5, Str. Calea Victoriei 37B (Novotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0742 07 91 19, www.metropoliscasinobucharest.ro. Open 24hrs. PLKW

PLATINUM CASINOQB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 031 710 22 34, www.platinumcasino.ro. Open 24 hrs. PLK

QUEEN CASINOQB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (How-ard Johnson Grand Plaza), MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 0372 76 34 45, www.queen-casino.ro. Open 24 hrs.

VICE ADVICEFor visitors to Bucharest looking for a little debauchery, there basically three options: one legal, one not exactly legal but not exactly illegal either, and one completely il-legal.

The legal option (and the only option we recommend) is erotic massage at a reputable massage parlour. You will certainly not be offered any sexual encounters at these places, but there is still much fun to be had, from simple hand assistance to full body massage from one, two or even three nubile young ladies. Prices start at around €35 though climb higher at the more central, luxurious estab-lishments.

The second (and not-always-above-board) option is to simply head for a brothel (surely ‘erotic nightclub?’ – Ed). These establishments advertise themselves in seedy publications as legitimate strip clubs, but act mainly as fronts for brothels, usually run by very dodgy, and often quite dangerous businessmen. After sitting yourself down at a table you will be served expensive drinks, before be-ing joined by some very bored young ladies. These girls sometimes lap dance for you, and always try to convince you to buy them ‘cocktails’ (in fact orange juice with an umbrella, usually costing about €15). After half an hour of bored conversation you may be asked if you would like to retreat to a more intimate location, usually a room above, or even in, the night club itself. For an hour of whatever it is you fancy expect to pay a minimum of €100, as well as the obligatory bottle of sparkling wine, which usually costs at least another €50. All this on top of your already huge tab.

The third option is to call one of the escorts who adver-tise in many of the poor quality city guides found around town. This is completely illegal and you really ought to think twice before picking up the phone.

The places we list below can all be vouched for as up-standing businesses which offer high standards and total discretion. All offer full erotic massage, and will even col-lect you from your hotel.

ARTEMIS MASAJQA-6, Str. Costache Negri 18, MEroilor, tel. (+4) 0754 96 31 67, www.artemis-masaj.ro. Open 12:00 - 04:00.

INTERDIT NIGHT CLUBQC-5, Str. Batistei 11 (Pia-ta Universitatii), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0768 80 67 74. Open 12:00 - 05:00.

TAO MASSAGEQB-5, Calea Victoriei 83-85, tel. (+4) 0788 77 86 60, www.tao-erotic-massage.ro. Open 13:00 - 24:00.

VIP OBSESSION SALOONQC-6, B-dul Unirii 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0755 14 18 68, (+4) 0733 53 34 22, www.vip-obsession.ro.


SightseeingNightlife

ESSENTIAL BUCHARESTThe first port of call for any visitor to Bucharest these days should probably be the Historic Centre, or Old Town. The Peasant and Village Museums should also not be missed, as well as the Grigore Antipa National History Museum.While still the most famous building in the city and usu-ally top of the agenda for most visitors, Casa Poporului/Palatul Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down for most. Art lovers should pencil in at least an afternoon at the National Art Museum. Last but not least, half a day at the Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian literary, artistic, political and architectural history.

CASA POPORULUI (PARLIAMENT PALACE; PAL-ATUL PARLAMENTULUI) Palatul Parlamentului (known universally as Casa Poporului) was built during the dark-est days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m above ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally designed (by a young architect, Anca Petrescu, who was just 28 at the time) to house almost all the organs of the communist state, it today plays host to the Romanian parlia-ment, as well as Romania’s Museum of Contemporary Art. The public tour of the building is thoroughly recommended (it is the only way to see the building, in fact) though the com-mentary often consists of little more than a guide reeling off endless superlative statistics. You’ll see plenty of grand staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms, while - if you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to go on the roof, which offers perhaps the best view of central Bucharest. You can even now take a trip into the bowels of the building down below, though again this costs extra. To join one of the tours you will need to bring your passport. Use the entrance on the right-hand side of the palace (if you’re looking at it front-on). Izvor is the nearest metro sta-tion. QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, intrarea A3, MIzvor, tel. (+4) 021 311 36 11, www.cdep.ro. Open 10:00 - 16:00 (last tour 15:30). Admission 25-45 lei adults, 13-23 lei stu-dents. Free for children under 18 and the disabled. An additional fee of 30.00 lei is payable by those with cam-eras, either still or video.

GEORGE ENESCU MUSEUM (MUZEUL NATION-AL GEORGE ENESCU) Mistakenly believed to be the great Romanian composer George Enescu’s former home, this outstanding Secession house was in fact built for landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many older Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino Pal-ace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescu’s death, and a year later opened as a museum dedicated to his life and work. You will find rooms full of the usual memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful life of Roma-nia’s most famous composer, as well as a full telling of the story of Romanian music in general. QB-4, Calea Victo-riei 141, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 14 50, www.georgeenescu.ro. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Ad-mission 6 lei, children 1.50 lei. Free entry on the 26th of each month.

GRIGORE ANTIPA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HIS-TORY (MUZEUL DE ISTORIE NATURALĂ GRI-GORE ANTIPA) One of Romania’s finest museums, and one of the best natural history museums in Europe. Packed with terrific exhibits which will keep kids of all ages and their parents occupied for the best part of the day, there are all sorts of hands-on, interactive displays, as well as 3D films, artificial caves and - in the basement - a thorough guide to the incredible amount of animal and plant life native to Romania. The building which houses it all is it-self worthy of note, purpose built in 1908 at the behest

BELLU CEMETERY

Founded in the 1850s, this is Bucharest’s most historic cemetery, the final resting place of just about every great Romanian academic, scientist, artist, writer, mu-sician and poet you can think of, as well as the odd politician. Each has his or her own plot, usually with an accompanying monument (our favourite is that devoted to the comic actor Toma Caragiu, killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977). You could spend half a day here wandering between the gravestones, memo-rials and statues (the graves are grouped by profession: scientists in one part, actors in another etc). Next to the cemetery is the Cimitirul Eroilor, where those killed in Bucharest during the 1989 revolution are buried. QCa-lea Serban Voda 249, MEroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4) 021 636 35 71, www.bellu.ro. Open 08:00 - 16:00.

STUDENT & UNDERGROUNDEXPIRAT & OTHERSIDE CLUB A club with two faces. Expirat is home to some of Bucha-rest’s most eclectic sounds, and as it has an OtherSide (Ex-pirat’s club within a club), chances are there is bound to be something going on you fancy. The music policy is a bit of everything: folk (usually live on Mondays), electro, alterna-tive, rock and indie with hip-hop, reggae and disco some-times thrown in for good measure. (Check the venue’s Facebook page to see what’s on the night you fancy go-ing). Drinks are well priced, and there are two bars mean-ing that you never have to wait too long to get served. Top notch.QB-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 4, MPiata Unirii/Izvor, tel. (+4) 0733 97 47 28/(+4) 0726 80 41 42, www.expirat.org. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (Expirat); 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. (The OtherSide). PEW

KULTURHAUS The student favourite. A nakedly non-commercial club that attracts a nakedly non-commercial crowd on two lev-els offering hard rock, folk rock, new wave, punk and indie upstairs, and pretty much the same downstairs (though it depends on the DJ...) Has a live band playing at least once a week, bags of other events and refreshingly says ‘NO’ to table service: yes, you will have to get your sorry ass to the bar to get a drink. We are fans.QC-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, www.kulturhaus.ro. Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PLE

PANIC!Panic!, possibly the first club in Bucharest named after a song by The Smiths, offers a mix of music centering on (but in no way confined to) alternative rock. There are plenty of live acts performing regularly and there’s always a good crowd of music lovers to share it all with. Refreshingly, it’s open every night of the week (many clubs in Bucharest are not) and there is always, always something going on. Get in.QC-5, Str. Academiei 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0766 05 61 70, [email protected], www.panic-club.ro. Open 14:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00. PEW

UPMARKET CLUBSBARLETTO CLUB It has now had a few names this place, but it remains one of the city’s best, most exclusive and of course most expensive uber-clubs. Featuring some of the sexiest dancers in Romania Friday and Saturday nights here are wild. The music is supplied by the world’s best DJs. You will need to take a taxi here, but then this is not the kind of place for people who use public transport anyway. Note that Barletto’s large pool is open during the summer from 10:00-18:00. entrance is 20 lei Mon-Fri, 40 lei Sat, Sun.QStr. Oltetului 30, tel. (+4) 0751 04 04 06, www.barletto.ro. Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PLEW

BOA (BEAT OF ANGELS) From the outside a fairly non-descript building that looks vaguely like a warehouse, but once in, wow! It is an enormous place that mixes luxury with great music courtesy of two top local resident DJs. There is plenty of space to dance, plenty of places to chill out and even the toilets are spacious and damn well luxurious. You will leave wanting to go back and cursing your luck that it is only open twice a week.QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 0736 30 07 00, www.boaclub.ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PLEBW

CUZCO CLUB One of the biggest clubs in central Bu-charest. Offers a mix of house and South American beats on the music front, as well as regular live events. It’s a bit classier than your average Bucharest club, and the crowd it attracts is a rich mix of age groups. No chance of feeling either too young or too old here. Worth a look.QC-4, Str. Mendeelev 35, tel. (+4) 0722 50 17 93, www.cuzcoclub.ro. Open 20:00 - 08:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

FRATELLI Top notch. One of Bucharest’s uber-clubs, where the richest and best looking people in the city come to see and be seen. Serving up a neverending supply of top DJs from both Romania and abroad, it is clear that the people who run this place consider the music to be as important as anything else: something not every club in this town can boast. Not cheap if you stick to the beer and do not sit at a table then you can still have a reasonably priced night out here. Brilliant.QStr. Glodeni 1-3, tel. (+4) 0731 03 62 22, www.fratelli.ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PL

KRISTAL GLAM CLUB Bucharest’s longest-running uber-club, still probably your first reference point for top international DJs and hedonistic nights. It has been in a few locations over the years, but the latest, in a converted cin-ema close to the city centre is - in our opinion - the best yet. What’s more, unlike a few clubs of the upmarket kind, which are merely for posing, Kristal has a proper dance floor for those who actually like to enjoy themselves.QB-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 34, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 79 51 84, www.clubkristal.ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PNW


SightseeingSightseeingof Grigore Antipa, a noted Romanian naturalist who then set-up and ran the museum for almost five decades until his death in 1944. QB-3, Şos. Kiseleff 1, MPiata Victo-riei, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, www.antipa.ro. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20 lei, pensioners 10 lei, children/students 5 lei.

NATIONAL ART MUSEUM (MNAR; MUZEUL NA-TIONAL DE ARTA) The country’s largest, and most impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid former Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a private home by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. It became a royal residence in 1859, when it was chosen as the site of the court of the first prince of the united principalities, Alexan-dru Ion Cuza. There are two permanent galleries, split over three floors of the main building. National Art (itself di-vided into Medieval Romanian Art - featuring icons, carved altars, illustrated manuscripts and bibles, and fragments of frescoes, and Modern Romanian Art, with all of Romania’s greatest 20th century artists well represented, including Theodor Aman, Constantin Brancuşi, Gheorghe Patraşcu, and Gheorghe Tattarescu); and European Paintings and Sculpture, which plays host to a fine collection of Old Eu-ropean Masters from all of the major schools. The museum also hosts a fine selection of temporary exhibitions. QB/C-5, Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) 021 313 30 30/(+4) 021 314 81 19, www.mnar.arts.ro. Open April 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Open May 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art, 10 lei for The National Gallery (Treasure included) and 15 lei for combined tickets (both galleries).

PEASANT MUSEUM (MUZEUL TARANULUI RO-MAN) The Peasant Museum is one of the most enjoyable in Bucharest, and one of the best in the country. Housed in a wonderful red brick building designed by Nicolae Ghica-Budeşti dating from 1912, the museum offers a range of exhibitions showing you all you need to know about the diverse and fascinating history of life around the Romanian countryside over the past four centuries. There are exhibitions covering all aspects of Romanian peasant life, from handpainted Easter eggs to terracotta pottery, from colourful religious icons to a huge range of traditional clothing. Replicas of some of what is on display can be bought in the excellent museum shop. Fittingly for the building that from 1948-89 was home to the Mu-seum of the Communist Party and Romanian Revolutionary Workers Movement, there is a collectivisation exhibition in the basement. The Peasant Museum hosts excellent craft fairs in its courtyard at least once a month. It also puts on children’s puppet shows at weekends (usually at 10:30 and 12:00, both Saturday and Sunday) and has a terrace cafe. QB-3, Şos. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96 61, www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last admission 17:00. Admission 8 lei, students and children 2 lei, pensioners 4 lei. Audio guides are available in English, French, German and Romanian, from 12 lei. Entrance to the craft fairs (held every month or so) usually costs around 6 lei.

VILLAGE MUSEUM (MUZEUL NAŢIONAL AL SATULUI DIMITRIE GUSTI) Founded in 1936 and cov-ering 15 hectares on the shores of Lake Herăstrău, Muzeul Satului is one of the greatest outdoor museums in the Bal-kans. There are more than 60 original houses, farmsteads, windmills, watermills and churches from all of Romania’s historic regions: Transylvania, Oltenia, Dobrogea and Molda-via. Every exhibit has a plaque showing exactly where in Ro-mania it was brought from. Some even now have recorded commentary in four languages (if the stickers are missing, press the second button for English). Most of the houses date from the mid 19th-century, but there are some, such as those from Berbeşti, in the heart of Romania - celebrated for their intricately carved entrances - which date from as early as 1775. The highlight of the museum is probably the steep belfry of the wooden Maramureş church, complete with exquisite but faded icons. You should also not miss the earth houses of Straja, dug in to the ground and topped with thatched roofs. The museum has a great souvenir shop, and stalls selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. It even has a restaurant, La Francu, set in a 19th-century inn. Children love the museum, and it makes for a perfect fam-ily outing. QA-2, Sos. Kiseleff 28-30, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021 317 91 10, www.muzeul-satului.ro. Open April 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 - 17:00. Open May 09:00-19:00, Mon 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 lei, pensioners 5 lei, stu-dents/children 2.50 lei. Audio guides available for 50 lei, guided tours in English, French, Spanish, Italian, Russian 300 lei: call in advance. Note that while the museum is open on Mondays, the houses are not.

BUILDINGS WITH A HISTORYBucharest has a number of curious, historical buildings, which fit none of our other categories all that well.As a result, we’ve thrown them all to together here, under the heading Buildings with a history.

ARCUL DE TRIUMF Bucharest’s Arc de triumf was raised in 1922 to commemorate Romania’s World War I dead. The original Arc was made of wood, replaced by the present, Petru Antonescu designed concrete structure only in 1935. Standing 25 metres high, the Arc has a staircase that allows visitors to climb to the terrace on the top of the monu-ment, though it is strangely closed most of the time and only opened on special occasions (usually on national holidays). The sculptures and reliefs that decorate the monument were created by the leading artists of the day, including Ion Jalea, Constantin Medrea and Constantin Baraschi. The Arc is currently being renovated, and a pe-destrian underpass built which will allow people to get to it without risking their lives. QA-2, Piata Arcul de Triumf, MAviatorilor.

ATHENEUM (ATENEUL ROMÂN) Possibly the fin-est building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum, with its sublime baroque cupola, stands proudly at the flux of the city’s busiest public square, competing with the Athenee Palace Hilton hotel, the Royal Palace and the old national library for attention. The work of French architect Albert Galleron, who also designed the National Bank of Roma-nia, the building was inaugurated on February 26, 1888, and was built almost entirely with money donated by ordinary citizens of the capital, when a campaign called ‘Give a penny for the Atheneum’ (Dati un leu pentru Ateneu) rescued the project from folly after the original patrons ran out of funds. Today the seat of the Romanian Philarmonic George Enescu, the auditorium can seat 800 spectators comfortably, and is renowned worldwide for its outstand-ing acoustics. QC-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67, www.fge.org.ro. Open 14:00 - 16:00.

CASA PRESEI LIBERE (CASA SCÂNTEII)An impressive edifice standing somewhat menacingly at the entrance to the capital, Casa Scanteii (as it is still uni-versally known) was designed by architect Horia Maicu and completed in 1956, one year after the strikingly similar (though much taller) Palace of Science and Culture in Warsaw, Poland. Originally housing the editorial offices of almost all of the capital’s newspapers, it today carries out pretty much the same function. The impressive archive of Rompres, the state press and photo agency, is also housed here. The fa-cade has in recent years been defaced by the addition of advertising hoardings. QA-1, Piata Presei Libere 1.

CEC The home of the National Savings Bank (Casa de Economii si Consemnaţiuni; CEC) is one of the most fabu-lous Neo-Classical facades in the city: the enormous arch that houses the entrance, with its mighty Corinthian col-umns, is a highlight of any architectural tour of Bucharest.

Built during the last decade of the nineteenth century, to the designs of French architect Paul Gottereau, the build-ing is no less impressive on the inside, not least the huge entrance hall with its sensational glass roof, and dome that nods towards the style of later Byzantine cathedrals.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 13.

PALATUL DIN PIATA VICTORIEI (PALATUL VICTO-RIEI) Today the home of the Romanian government, this linear construction was built in 1937 to the design of Duiliu Marcu, originally to house the Foreign Ministry (which is now elsewhere). Note that ever since several thousand un-invited coal miners trashed the place in 1991, entrance to the building has been granted only to those on government business. QB-4, B-dul Ilie Pintilie 1, MPiata Victoriei.

HISTORIC CHURCHESANTIM MONASTERY (MANASTIREA ANTIM)The splendid Antim Monastery, with its elegant dome and gold finish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on the orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul, patriarch of the Orthodox Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim originally intended the monastery to be a refuge for fallen women and refugees, as well as a seat of learning. The bell tower through which we today enter the monastery was added in 1857. The monastery church is particularly worth admiring for its icons featuring the Nativity and Revelations, painted in 1812 by Petre Alexandrescu.QB-6, Str. Antim 29.


SightseeingAPOSTLES’ CHURCH (BISERICA SFINTII APOS-TOLI) One of the oldest churches in Bucharest (with parts dating back to the 16th century, when it served as the church of the Târnovului Monastery) the Apostles’ Church is notable for its sublime steeple, built in 1715 and restored in 1936. Inside the church is brimming with some rather strange portraits, all of which are well worth see-ing. Among the portraits are those of the church’s founder, Voivod Matei. QB-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli 33A, MPiata Unirii.

ARMENIAN CHURCH (BISERICA ARMENEASCĂ)Now overlooked by a hideous skyscraper, this is never-theless one of the largest and best preserved Orthodox churches in central Bucharest. The church (built between 1911-15) is an exact replica of a cathedral in the Armenian city of Ecmiazin, and serves the city’s once large but now miniscule Armenian population. Next to the church is an interesting library with a large number of documents relating to the Armenian population (phone ahead for access). QD-5, B-dul Carol I 43, tel. (+4) 021 313 90 70, www.armenianchurch.ro.

BARATIEI CHURCH (BISERICA BARATIEI)Almost poking into Bulevardul Bratianu, this particular Roman-Catholic church was built in 1828, although there has been a church here since the late 1590s. Boasting a couple of superb stained-glass windows the church holds services in Romanian and Hungarian. The name, Baratiei, derives from the Hungarian word for friend, barat. QC-6, Str. Baratiei 27, MPiata Unirii/Universitate.

BUCUR CHURCH First built perhaps as early as 1416, this could well be the site of the oldest church in Bucharest. Nobody is exactly sure how long there has been a church here, but we do know that it predates the Radu Voda monastery opposite, which was first constructed in 1506. Today, the Bucur Church is often ignored, hidden as it is on a hill above the street and hemmed in by two blocks. The current church was built around 1720 (thoroughly reno-vated in 1909-10) to serve as a chapel for the cemetery of the Radu Voda monastery. The church - and the hill on which it stand were recently consolidated in order to pre-vent them falling further towards the Dambovita river, just a few metres behind. The church is named for Bucur the Shepherd, the legendary founder of Bucharest. QC-7, Str. Radu Voda 33, www.biserica-bucur.ro.

COLŢEA CHURCH (BISERICA COLŢEA) To the left (face on) of the Colţea hospital, the church of the same name was built from 1701-2 on the site of an older, wooden construction. Recent renovation has restored much of the rich ornamentation of the interior, most of which was painted in 1876 by Gheorghe Tattarescu. Look out for the Cantacuzino family crest above the vaguely Italian baroque portal. The church (like the hospital which surrounds it) was founded by courtier Mihai Cantacuzino. A statue of Canta-cuzino stands just inside the entrance to the hospital court-yard. QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 1, MUniversitate.

CREŢULESCU CHURCH (BISERICA CREŢULESCU)Probably the most celebrated historic church in Bucharest. Biserica Creţulescu was raised from 1720-2 by Iordache Creţulescu and his wife Safta, a daughter of Romanian ruler Constantin Brâncoveanu. The outstanding paintings on the entrance are original, the work of an unknown art-ist, while the interior icons were added in 1859 by the pro-lific Gheorghe Tattarescu. Damaged during the fighting of December 1989, the church has recently been restored to its full glory, and is a must. QC-5, Calea Victoriei 47, MUniversitate.

DOMNIŢA BALAŞA CHURCH To say this church has been the victim of bad luck is an understatement. Built in 1885, the church is named after Constantin Brâncoveanu’s sixth daughter, who built an ear-lier church on the site in 1744, but which burnt down soon after. In 1751 a second church was built; but that was also later damaged, during an earthquake in 1838. Building work almost immediately started on a third church, but that too proved unstable and just 40 years later it was replaced by the current, orange-coloured, Neo-Romanesque building. Serious cracks that appeared after another earthquake in 1940 were repaired in the 1960s, only to be damaged again in the massive earthquake of 1977.QB-6, Str. Sfintii Apos-toli, MPiata Unirii.

ICON CHURCH (BISERICA ICOANEI) The Church of the Icon is named after the 17th century icon of the Holy Virgin in the nave, a gift from Constantin Brâncoveanu. A wooden church was built on this site as early 1681-82, the first brick church being erected in 1745-50, only for it to collapse during a devastating earthquake in 1838. Rebuilt the same year, the high altar was added in 1850. Note the grave of General Ioan Odobescu (1793-1857) alongside the church, adorned with a helmet. QC-4, Str. Icoanei 12.

ITALIAN CHURCH (CHIESA ITALIANA/BISERICA ITALIANĂ) Juxtaposed by 1930s blocks on the busiest street in the city, the red brick Italian church looks a little uncomfortable in its setting. Look at it from the other side of the road however, and its glorious Neo-Gothic exterior, complete with Florentine tower is quite stunning. The in-terior is nothing of note, but acts as a lovely refuge from the bustling street outside. The church is owned by the Italian government. QC-5, B-dul N. Bălcescu 28, MU-niversitate. Daily services (in Romanian) at 18:00. On Sundays, services are as follows: 09:00 (German), 10:00 (Romanian), 11:00 (Italian), 17:00 (Polish).

MIHAI VODĂ MONASTERY (MĂNĂSTIREA MIHAI VODĂ) One of the churches that was moved to make way for the Civic Centre, Mihai Vodă was originally built in 1601. After a fire in 1761 it was left to rot before thor-ough rebuilding was carried out from 1827-38. In 1985 it was moved 285 metres east - on rails - and hidden in its present location behind the apartment blocks. QB-6, Str. Sapienţei 2, MIzvor.


SightseeingSightseeingNEW ST. GEORGE’S CHURCH (BISERICA SF. GHE-ORGHE NOU) The largest of the churches built in Bucharest during the reign of Constantin Brâncoveanu, New St. George’s Church was consecrated on June 29th, 1707. It was a wonder of the age, having been designed by an Italian, Vaseleli, and decorated by the great Romanian maestros of the times: the painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate and the sculptor Caragea. Damaged in a fire in 1847, the church was reno-vated from 1852-3 by the Spanish architect Villacrosse. New and outstanding interior murals were added by Mar-ian Popp. Brâncoveanu is himself allegedly buried under the church, in an unmarked grave. QC-6, Piata Sf. Gheo-rghe, MPiata Unirii.

NEW ST. JOHN’S CHURCH (BISERICA SFANTUL IOAN NOU) Entirely hidden by blocks, few visitors to - or even residents of - Bucharest are even aware of this church’s existence. It is in fact right in the centre of the city, opposite Unirea Shopping Centre, behind the Raifeissen bank on the corner of B-dul Corneliu Coposu and B-dul I. C. Bratianu. Founded in 1774 the small church boasts two exterior frescoes as well as a richly ornamental interior, complete with golden altar. One of the church’s wooden icons dates from 1711 and was formerly housed in the Sarindar Church (situ-ated where the Cercul Militar is today). QC-6, Piata Unirii, MPiata Unirii.

PATRIARCHAL CATHEDRAL (PATRIARHIA)Set atop one of the city’s few hills, known as Mitropoliei, the Patriarchal Cathedral has been the centrepiece of the Romanian Orthodox faith since the seventeenth century. Built to a design based on the Curtea de Arges, near Pitesti, it has undergone a number of facelifts over the years, but the overwhelming majority of the cathedral’s structure is the original, built between 1654 and 1658. The outstanding bell-tower at the entrance was built in 1698, and restored in 1958. Next to the church - and closed to the public - is the Patriarchal Palace, residence of Daniel Ciobotea, the Patri-arch of the Romanian Orthodox Church. It was built in 1708. QC-6/7, Str. Dealul Mitropoliei, MPiata Unirii.

RADU VODĂ MONASTERY (MĂNĂSTIREA RADU VODĂ) The church of the former Radu Vodă Monastery stands on a hill on the banks of the Dâmboviţa, though the construc-tion of the Civic Centre hid it from the river and from gen-eral view. There was originally a wooden church on this site, built during the reign of Mihnea the Bad, around 1508. The monastery was added in 1570, and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The present church - which resembles the Curtea de Argeş, outside Piteşti - dates from 1613-4, though it was extensively rebuilt during the 19th century, when the frescoes (all the work of peerless painter Gheo-rghe Tattarescu) were added. QC-6, Str. Radu Vodă 24A, MPiata Unirii.

SCHITUL DARVARI (DARVARI HERMITAGE)The walled Schitul Darvari - with its lovely grounds - is a gorgeous oasis of peace and quiet in busy central Bu-charest. Founded in 1834 by Mihai Darvari and his wife Elena - who purchased the site from the Biserica Icoanei - it was originally a private church for the Darvari family and their close acquaintances. Renovated extensively in 1894 and again from 1933-4, a community of monks lived here continuously from 1835 to 1959, when they were forced to move to Cernica Monastery by Romania’s communist au-thorities. Made a national monument in 1992 the church is richly decorated both inside and out. QC-5, Str. Schitul Darvari 3, www.schituldarvari.ro. Open 07:30 - 19:30.

MUSEUMSART COLLECTION MUSEUM (MUZEUL COLECTI-ILOR DE ARTĂ) Firstly, a few words about the building. The Casa Romanit was constructed in 1822 as a private residence, before being bought by the state in 1883 to serve as the country’s supreme court. There are presently some fantastic works on show here, including paintings by all of Romania’s greatest artists, from Nicolae Grigore-scu to Theodor Pallady. In terms of artistic importance the collections here are second only to those at the National Museum of Art. QB-4, Calea Victoriei 111, tel. (+4) 021 212 96 41/(+4) 021 212 96 42. Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Thu, Fri. Admission 7.00 lei, students/children 3.50 lei.

COTROCENI MUSEUM Constructed from 1888-93 at the behest of Romania’s first king, Carol I, Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the of-ficial residence of the Romanian President. Built on the site of a former monastery (the foundations and cellars of which remain, and form part of the tour of the palace), the palace was designed by a French team of architects, led by Paul Gottereau. The design would form something of a blueprint for Romanian domestic architecture for years to come. It served as the Bucharest residence of the Ro-manian royal family until 1939. Part of the palace is open to the public, and can be visited on a tour. You will see a number of function rooms, many of which were deco-rated to the whims of Marie, the English wife of Carol’s heir, his nephew Crown Prince Ferdinand.QB-dul Geniului 1,

MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 317 31 07, www.muzeulco-troceni.ro. Open 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 27.00 lei, students and children 21.00 lei. Admission in-cludes entrance and the compulsory guided tour. Tours are available in Romanian, French and English. Last tour begins at 16:30.

GEOLOGY MUSEUM Far more than just a collection of old rocks and fossils, Bu-charest’s Geology Museum is one of the city’s must sees. First off, there is the museum building itself to admire. Built in 1906 on the orders of King Carol I to house what was then known as the Royal Romanian Geology Society, the building is a splendid example of Neo-Brancovenesque architecture, and is far more impressive than its red-brick neighbour, the Peasant Museum. The museum’s perma-nent collections are impressive in size and - being logically presented - clarity, with a decent number of English cap-tions. The museum is also one of the most active in the city, playing host to varied and never less than fascinating temporary exhibitions. It also runs creative workshops for children some Saturday mornings. QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 2, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 212 89 52, www.geology.ro. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8.00 lei, students and children 4.00 lei. There is an extra charge for cameras of 30 lei. Guided tours in Romanian 20 lei, English and French 30 lei.

MINOVICI MUSEUM OF ANCIENT WESTERN ART (MUZEUL DE ARTA VECHE APUSEANA ‘ING. D. MINOVICI’) This amazing red brick, mock-Tudor house holds the small yet stunning renaissance art collection

CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERIES

GALATECA GALLERY (NEOGALATECA GAL-LERY-SHOP) A gallery of applied art, housed in the rath-er splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. Features local and international contemporary artists, while the NeoGalateca shop sells fashion, accessories and designer objects from names including Muuto, Pols Potten, Seletti and ToyWatch, as well as local designers Andreea Badala (Murmur), Carla Szabo, Lucian Broscatean, Miki Puran (Ma-racuja), Cosmina Nicolescu (Fandacsia), Agnes Keszeg and Ciprian Vrabie. QC-5, Str. C.A. Rosetti 2-4, tel. (+4) 0376 20 31 77, www.galateca.ro. Open 12:00 – 20:00, Sat 11:00 – 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

ZORZINI GALLERY Fine contemporary art gallery working with both established and emerging Roma-nian artists that correspond to the gallery’s aesthetic agenda, which includes graphics, painting, installation and mixed media. Currently represents Nicolae Co-manescu, Andrei Gamart and Oana Lohan. QC-5, Str. Thomas Masaryk 31, tel. (+4) 0727 89 07 20, www.zorzinigallery.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PLBSW


SightseeingSightseeingof Dumitru Minovici, who made barrels of lei in the oil business in the 1930s. Inside are fine collections of Bel-gian tapestries, Dutch furniture, Swiss stained glass, a complete library and Italian paintings from the 16th/17th centuries. The house itself is a thing of wonder, from the stained glass windows to the wooden balustrades and overgrown garden. To get there, walk north-east from Piaţa Presei Libere or take bus No. 131, 301, 335 or 783 to the Mioriţa Fountain. QStr. Dr. Minovici 3, tel. (+4) 021 665 73 34. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Free admission.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MNAC; MUZEUL NATIONAL DE ARTA CONTEM-PORANA) Making excellent use of the wide open spaces of the Par-liament Palace, this vast gallery displays the work of Ro-mania’s finest contemporary artists. There are also works on display by international artists, and regular topical ex-hibitions. We think it’s one of the highlights of the city’s cultural scene and a visit here has the added bonus of get-ting you into the Casa Poporului without taking the guided tour. QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, entrance E4 (Palatul Parlamentului), MIzvor, tel. (+4) 021 318 91 37, www.mnac.ro. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admis-sion 10 lei. Free entrance for children.

NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM (MUZEUL TEHNIC DIMITRIE LEONIDA) Often unfairly derided as an outdated museum of technol-ogy, it should be remembered that the machines, turbines, inventions and gadgets on display here are not meant to be cutting edge. At least not in this day and age. They were all, however, cutting edge when they first appeared, with some of the older steam engines dating back to the beginning of the 19th century. The museum is housed in something of a cherished relic itself: the last remaining pa-vilion (of many) built to host the 1906 Romania Fair. QC-7, Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel. (+4) 021 336 93 90. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4.00 lei, students, children 2.00 lei.

THEODOR PALLADY MUSEUM (CASA MELIK, MUZEUL THEODOR PALLADY) Theodor Pallady (1871-1953) was an early Cubist artist widely regarded as Romania’s most influential 20th cen-tury painter. Schooled in Dresden and Paris, Pallady was influenced by the Symbolist environment of the late 19th century, and his paintings before 1916 contain Symbolist motifs, sometimes with echoes of Moreau and Puvis de Chavannes. Alas the small museum that today bears his name has only six of his paintings, a couple of his sketches and assorted other art. The museum’s saving grace is the house in which it is hosted: the oldest in Bucharest. Originally called the Casa Melik, it was built around 1750 by the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork Nazaretoglu.QD-5, Str. Spătarului 22, tel. (+4) 021 211 49 79. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5.00 lei, students and chil-dren 2.50 lei.

PARKS & GARDENSBOTANICAL GARDENS (GRĂDINA BOTANICĂ)Bucharest’s fabulous Botanical Gardens were founded in 1860 with the significant financial backing of Prince Al-exandru Ioan Cuza, at the time the leader of the nascent Romanian state. Completed in 1866 to the designs and instructions of Ulrich Hoffmann, they were originally in the grounds of the Cotroceni Monastery, moving to their present location in 1884. The garden, administratively part of Bucharest University’s Botanical Institute, today extends over an area of more than 17 hectares, and hosts more than 10,000 species of plants, approximately half of which are cultivated in the impressive glasshouses. Of particular note are the exotic flowers (more than 1000 are on display) and the bizarre Symphytum ottomanum, a plant which can appear to vanish without trace only to reappear up to 50 metres away. The recently renovated glasshouses are fabulous, and kids love the wide variety of strange plants inside, especially the cacti and the Venus fly traps. Many locals like to take advantage of the bargain entrance fee and use the exterior of the gardens as a park, and thus the place can often be far more full with courting couples than with lovers of more floral delights. Whatever your reasons for going, it’s a terrific place to spend a morning. QSos. Cotroceni 32, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39, www.gradina-botanica.ro. Gardens Open 08:00-20:00. Botanical Museum Open 10:00-15:00, 09:00-13:00 Sat, Sun, Closed Fri. Greenhouses Open 10:00-13:00, Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission to the gardens 5.00 lei, stu-dents and children 2.00 lei. Museum and greenhouses cost extra: 2 lei adults, 1 leu children.

CAROL PARK (PARCUL CAROL I) Designed in 1906 by the French landscape artist Eduard Redont, Carol Park is today dominated by the massive Monument to the Heroes of the Struggle for Free-dom and Socialism (it stands 48 metres high) built in 1963 and which until 1990 housed the remains of com-munist leaders Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Groza (it is today the site of the tomb of the unknown Romanian soldier). The park offers some pleasant walks along tree-lined paths, playgrounds and terraces, and a good view of central Bucharest from the monument. The Arenele Ro-mane in the west of the park, next to the observatory of the Astronomic Institute of the Romanian Academy is a popular venue for concerts. Close by is the gorgeous Cutitul de Argint Church, built in 1796 and famous for its many exterior icons. On the other side of the park it is worth looking out for the medieval-looking Tepes Castle (which in fact dates from 1906), once a water tower but now used as offices by the Romanian Army’s veteran’s as-sociation. QC-7, Calea Serban Vodă, MEroii Revolutiei.

CISMIGIU GARDENS (GRĂDINA CISMIGIU)The most central of the city’s public gardens, Cismigiu is a haven of lawns, trees, flowers and lakes. Cismigiu was first designed and laid out in 1845 by the German landscape ar-chitect Carl Meyer, but not completed until 1860. More than

30,000 trees and plants were brought in from the Romanian mountains, while exotic plants were fetched from the bo-tanical gardens in Vienna. Highlights of the 17 hectare garden include the Roman Garden, laid out in the style of ancient Rome, and including busts of Romania’s most famous writers, the lake, which can be explored by rowing boat in summer or skated upon during the winter, and Ion Jalea’s French Me-morial in Carrara marble, which commemorates those French troops killed on Romanian territory during World War I.QB-5, Between B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea Victoriei, Str. Stirbei Vodă and B-dul Schitu Măgureanu, MUniversitate.

HERĂSTRĂU PARKAnyone who still thinks that Bucharest is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the in-comparable Herastrau Park. Quite simply, this glorious park, spread over 187 hectares around Herastrau lake is one of the jewels in Bucharest’s crown, which might explain why half of the city chooses to spend its Sunday afternoons here. The first thing you will see when entering the park from Piata Charles de Gaulle is a tall, bronze, rather bizarre statue of de Gaulle himself. Unveiled in 2006 the statue is the work of local artist Mircea Corneliu Spataru, and was commissioned by the Ministry of Culture to commemorate Bucharest’s hosting that year of the Francophonie confer-ence. Charles de Gaulle is not the only historic figure hon-

oured in this part of the park with a statue or bust, however. In fact, the alleyways and paths which fan out from the en-trance are all dotted with famous people, from Romanian revolutionary Nicolae Balcescu to Bengali literature’s most important figure, Rabindranath Tagore. Look out also for local artists Nicolae Grigorescu, Constantin Brancusi and Theodor Aman, as well as writers George Cosbuc, Alexan-dru Vlahuta and Romania’s national poet, Mihai Eminescu. Other foreigners honoured with statues include William Shakespeare, Ady Endre, Sandor Petofi and Victor Hugo. Oh, and there’s a memorial to Michael Jackson too. Yes, re-ally.QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, MAviatorilor.

TINERETULUI PARK (PARCUL COPIILOR, PAR-CUL VACARESTI) A large, mostly lovely park featuring some of the best playgrounds in the city. Divided into two parts, the main section (closest to Tineretului metro) offers a few rides for kids, trampolines and dodgems, as well as playgrounds and plenty of tree-lined avenues great for strolling. In the middle of the park is the Sala Polivalenta – a popular venue for concerts, exhibitions and big indoor sporting events - set above a large artificial lake. Up by Sala Polivalenta you will also find the entrance to Oraselul Co-piilor, a large children’s funfair, complete with big wheel and zillions of other rides of varying scariness.QB-dul Ti-neretului, MTineretului.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS

CULTURAL TRAVEL & TOURS CT&T provides tailor-made heritage sightseeing tours of Bucharest (from €29), a number of themed tours around Wallachia and Transylvania, and several nationwide tours of varying lengths. Other flexible services and guides in a variety of languages are available on request. Qtel./fax (+4) 021 336 31 63, tel. (+4) 0724 71 88 48, [email protected], www.cttours.ro.

MR. TRIPPMr. Tripp offers a number of terrific tours, not the least of which is the excellent value four-hour tour of Mogosoaia and Snagov for €49, which includes the tomb of Vlad Tepes (Dracula): notoriously difficult to get to indepen-dently. There is also a full-day trip of Sighisoara, Brasov and Sinaia (€79), and they will even pick you up from, and drop you off back at, your hotel for free. All entrance fees also included. QC-5, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 0745 75 27 53, [email protected], www.traveltobucharest.com.

ROMANIATOGO Visit Romania, pretty much all of it with these people. Besides organising no fewer than four tours of Bucharest (including a Communist Heri-tage Tour) there are also loads of Romania excursions to choose from to. These include Transylvania In One Day, RomaniaToGo, Must See Romania and Meeting Dracula. All tours feature free hotel pick-ups and drop-offs, as well as a local guide. Can also arrange airport transfers.

Qtel. (+4) 0733 55 78 50, [email protected], www.romania-to-go.com.

TRANSVISIONTransVision runs a number of tours around Romania, including a Dracula Tour which takes in Peles Castle, Rasnov Citadel and Dracula (Bran) Castle in Transylvania. The price is €59/person. Another option is a two-day tour of Transylvania, also including Sibiu, Sighisoara and Brasov. The price is €159/person and includes a night at a three-star hotel with breakfast. All tours include free pick-up and return from any Bucharest hotel, as well as the services of a professional English-speaking guide (other languages are availble on request). For both tours, if you book online you can get a ten per cent discount. Qtel. (+4) 0755 05 26 21, [email protected], www.transvision.ro.

TRAVELMAKERTravelMaker operates escorted group tours from and around Bucharest, an airport shuttle service and private transfers. Their half-day tour of the city (€29) is an excel-lent introduction to Bucharest. They also provide hotel accommodation all over Romania, city break packages and short trips. The agency offers the only daily group tour (which anyone can join) to Peles Castle and Bran (Dracula’s) Castle for €69 per person. QStr. Elena Va-carescu 9, bl. XXI-2, tel. (+4) 021 232 03 31, (+4) 0735 52 57 10, fax (+4) 021 232 03 31, [email protected], www.bucharestcitytour.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.


Old Town

Z BoutiqueK&K

Elisabeta

Novotel GrandContinental

Capitol

Majestic

Casa Capsa

Central

Cismigiu

Opera

HistoryMuseum

DomnitaBalasa

Old Court Palace & Church Cocor

Baratiei

Coltea Church & Hospital

RussianChurch

StavropoleosChurch

Sf. Dumitru

Doamnei

Mihai Voda

Museum ofBucharest

Rembrandt

Tania

Europa Royale

Old Town - which most locals call Centru Vechi (Old Centre) - is a little pocket of 19th and early 20th century Bucharest which survived both the bombing of World War II and the bulldozers of Romania’s communist planners. It is described by Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta and Piata Universitatii to the north, Bulevardul IC Bratianu to the east, the river to the south and Calea Victoriei to the west. Not more than one kilometre square, the area boasts more restaurants, pubs and clubs than any other district in the city.

GETTING THEREYou can walk to the Old Town from most parts of the city centre. Two metro stations serve the area: Piata Universitatii to the north and Piata Unirii to the south. Note that most

of the Old Town’s streets are pedestrianised, with access for vehicles strictly limited. There is an underground car park at Piata Universitatii, accessed via Strada Doamnei. Taxis will usually drop you off at what is known as La Bariera (at the bottom end of Strada Selari) or at the National Bank. When leaving the Old Town always be careful to take an honest taxi: see page 10 for more on taxis in Bucharest.

OLD TOWN WALKBegin your exploration of Old Town at the four statues in Piata Universitatii, before heading to the Russian Church (officially called the St. Nicholas Students’ Church). From here, it’s worth popping along to the Museum of Bucha-rest in the Sutu Palace before doubling back along Strada


Old Town

Ion Ghica until you get to the National Bank, on the other side of which is the majestic Pasajul Macca-Villacrosse, and Strada Lipscani: the street whose name is often used to describe the whole Old Town area. Then make sure you head along Strada Stavropoleos to see its architectural gems: the church which shares its name and the Caru’ cu Bere pub and restaurant. Head out on to Calea Victoriei to take a look at the Zlatari Church, National History Museum and CEC building before coming back into the Old Town via Strada Franceza and the Sf. Dumitru Church. At the far end, in Piata Sf Anton, is the Old Court Palace and Church: the very raison d’etre of the entire Old Town area. The Hanul Manuc is opposite. For more details on all of the sights you will spot along the way, see the Old Town Sights listings.

OLD TOWN CAFESBRUNO WINE & COFFEE SHOP So much more than wine and coffee on offer here you will be forgiven for thinking you have the wrong place! This is a bistro really, a genuine French style place, where good wine by the glass is available next to a decent spread of simple food, with a regularly changing menu.QC-6, Str. Covaci 3, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 317 17 41/(+4) 0757 55 72 91, www.brunowine.ro. Open 16:00 - 24:00. PBSW

FRENCH BAKERY Bucharest’s smartest chain of baker-ies comes to Old Town, complete with its fine selection of sandwiches, delicious tarts and cakes, great coffee and a

super terrace - in the right weather - outside on the sexi-est part of Old Town. Could be just about the best place in Bucharest for coffee, regardless of the time of day.QC-6, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 316 10 27, www.frenchbakery.ro. Open 09:30 - 24:00. PBSW

GODOT CAFE TEATRU Cafe, bistro and theatre on Strada Blanari in the Old Town. There are performances every day (with matinees at weekends) of all sorts of plays, from Shakespeare to Neil Simon and contemporary Ro-manian productions, and feature plenty of top local act-ing talent. Even actors used to bigger stages make a habit of performing here in the uniquely intimate auditorium. There’s some good simple food too, such as pasta, salads, omelettes: that kind of thing. A highly recommendable experience.QC-6, Str. Blanari 14, tel. (+4) 021 316 16 82, www.godotcafeteatru.ro. Open 12:00 - 05:00. Box of-fice open daily 12:00-19:00. PW

GRADINA HANULUI MANUC The courtyard at the Ha-nul lui Manuc is without question one of the most amazing places to eat and drink in Bucharest, especially the tables on the balconies overlooking the main part of the courtyard. What’s more, you can choose from the menus of any of the Han’s restaurants and cafes.QC-6, Str. Franceza 62, MP-ta Unirii, tel. (+4) 0769 07 58 44/(+4) 021 313 14 11, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. BSW

GRAND CAFE VAN GOGH Amazing how quickly this place became the default Bucharest ‘meet you there’ venue. Its genius is that it’s ideal at every time of day: morning cof-fee or breakfast sat in front of one of the long windows, a business lunch at one of the wooden tables, a meal and a late night at the bar. The food is good - simple and very reasonably priced - and this Dutch owned, friendly cafe is a winner: you will go back more than once. There is also a specialist wine bar downstairs, meeting and function rooms upstairs, and they now do a great brunch, on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00-16:00.QC-6, Str. Smardan 9, MUniver-sitate, tel. (+4) 031 107 63 71, www.vangogh.ro. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Non-smoking lounge open 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -24:00. PSW


Old TownKLEIN CAFE Good cafe situated on the mezzanine floor of the Rembrandt hotel; it is the only non-smoking cafe in the Old Town we believe. They serve a great continental breakfast until 10am, with a vast selection of croissants, muffins, Dutch cheeses, meats, yoghurts, cereals and freshly squeezed orange juice, while throughout the rest of the day fresh, warm waffles are served with a choice of toppings.QC-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PGSW

LES BOURGEOIS A veritable Strada Smardan legend of a venue, whose longevity is a credit to its management who keep rethinking and reinventing the menu and making sure there is always good reason to come and eat, drink or just have one of over 30 (we counted) coffees here. Foodwise, there is plenty to choose from: so much in fact that making individual recommendations is pointless. Everyone will find something they like. Top desserts, too. QC-6, Str. Smardan 20, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 310 60 52, www.lesbourgeois.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PSW

VALEA REGILOR Thick Turkish coffee served in one of Calea Victoriei’s grand old passages. Alongside the coffee and cakes - sweet and sickly but irresistible - you can also get your hands on a Nargile, those Turkish water pipes.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20 (Pasajul Villacrosse), MUniversi-tate, tel. (+4) 021 311 29 69, www.valea-regilor.ro. Open 09:00 - 03:00. NBSW

OLD TOWN RESTAURANTS:

FINE DININGMULANRUJ DINING THEATRE & CLUB Upstairs at Bordello’s is the Mulanruj Dining Theatre, a dinner and events venue where there is regular cabaret, stand-up comedy, live music and theme parties and such like. There is a wide range of dining options, and the food - as you would expect from the people who run Bordello’s - is very good. Details about coming events from Bordello’s or the venue’s Facebook page.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro. Open 19:00 - 24:00. €€€. PEW

THE ARTIST RESTAURANT Food as art: a first for Bu-charest and a first for Romania. The work of a young Dutch chef, this amazing restaurant is something special. The menu changes with the seasons, and the Atlantic salmon with coconut and mushrooms is probably our pick of the current menu, alongside the baby rooster with chick-peas and lemon. The restaurant offers a tasting menu for those who want to try all the main courses currently be-ing served. In keeping with the food the restaurant itself is contemporary and upmarket, a mix of the bright and the simple, chic without ever going over the top. Prices reflect the amazing quality.QC-6, Str. Nicolae Tonitza 13, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0728 31 88 71, www.theartist.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€€€. PW

FOOD & DRINKBURGERBAR Not just another Bucharest burger bar, this place could well be the Bucharest burger bar. Served with fantastic, chunky, Belgian-style fries and Heinz ketchup they have gone the extra mile here. The desserts would be worthy of a gourmet restaurant: you haven’t eaten a fudge in Bucharest until you’ve tried the one they’re serv-ing here. Add in funky contemporary decor and you have a place we are more than happy to recommend.QC-6, Str. Lipscani (Pasajul Selari), MPiata Universitatii, tel. (+4) 021 313 03 76. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. €€. PSW

EMBASSY HANUL CU TEI Making very good use of the courtyard of Hanul cu Tei, always one of our favourite parts of Lipscani, Embassy is a terrace (in summer) and indoor lounge which serves food and drink to an older, wiser and simply nicer crowd than many other places we could men-tion in Old Town. Good bistro food, decent cocktails and reasonable prices. For those in the know, this is the sister es-tablishment of the original Embassy on Piata Lahovari.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 03, www.embassy-hanulcutei.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. €€€. PSW

FRENCHBON Fabulous food in a wonderful setting, created using antique doors and window frames, the work of the de-signer du jour in this part of the world, who also came up with the concept for Energiea, Atelier Mecanic, Biutiful and La Bonne Bouche (to which it bears a passing resemblance). The food is worthy of the surroundings: the onion soup with Gruyere is amazing, the New Zealand lamb chops ten-der, and the mussels fresh. Prices are reasonable given the quality, although if you hit the oysters and champagne of course the bill will be high!QC-6, Str. Smardan 33, MPi-ata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 367 21 98, www.bonrestaurant.ro. Open 12:30 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€€€. PSW

LA BONNE BOUCHE Does what it does - simple French bistro food - better than anywhere else in the city. Try the sublime onion soup, calves liver with sage and garlic mash and the lemon meringue pie. Look for the chef’s specials too. An open kitchen is always a good sign, and we love the variety of reading material in the toilets. Just a brilliantly simple place. Note that they accept Amex cards: not every-where does in Bucharest.QC-6, Str. Franceza 30, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0731 24 78 76, www.labonnebouche.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PESW

GERMANBRAUHAUS 41 If you like a tasty bit of German sausage (and let’s face it, who doesn’t?) then this is the place to head for if you are in Old Town. There is much else besides sausage on the menu, however, and if you add in tremen-dous beer and good prices you have another reason to


Old TownOld Townhail Strada Smardan as the city’s top entertainment street. Worth checking out.QC-6, Str. Smardan 41, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0725 52 30 81. Open 09:00 - 03:00. €€€. PSW

GREEKMEZE TAVERNA Another excellent Greek restaurant. It even looks the part - we love the lampshades made from empty olive oil cans - while the food itself is seriously, seriously good. There is tons of seafood on the gorgeous menu (the fish soup and the prawns with tomatoes and cheese are musts), alongside what is some of the best lamb we’ve eaten in Bucharest. The Greek burger is a nice treat too. The chef, Georgios, is always coming up with tasty daily specials, so ask your waiter what’s cooking. The house red is a drinkable bargain.QC-6, Str. Nicolae Tonita 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 539 53 53, www.mezetaverna.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. €€€. PESW

HUNGARIANST. GEORGE This has long been one of our favourite res-taurants, a place that had the vision to open up a good year or two before Old Town became fashionable. The food is excellent, authentic Hungarian cuisine, featuring a wealth great dishes - try the mutton stew with dumplings - and a wine list that offers the very best Hungary’s vine-yards have to offer. Cracking open a bottle of Tokaji Aszu is the perfect way to end an evening here. Live music is provided by a happy, table wandering troupe every night.QC-6, Str. Franceză 44, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 317 10 87, www.stgeorge.ro. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PESW

INDIANNEWLITTLE INDIAIt was about time Old Town got itself a decent curry house, and Little India is it. From the same people who have been cooking up first class Indian food at Karishma for more than a decade now, this superb place has quickly become the talk of Lipscani. Expect a similar menu to the one at Karishma, including a couple of searing vindaloos, and a lamb rogan josh to rival that of any Indian anywhere. Plen-ty for vegetarians, and the mango shake is a treat.QC-6, Str. Franceza 7, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0720 78 67 86. Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€€. PVSW

ITALIANCOCO BONGOLove the name, love the attitude. Looks more like a pub from outside, and in fact it is both pub and restaurant, the kind of place you can eat very well but nobody minds if you just spend all night on the sauce. The food is Ital-ian, is good if a little pricey (some of the dishes, anyway). The pizzas are good and cheap though, and the service

good, quick and friendly. Worth a look.QC-6, Str. Covaci 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0754 02 04 34, www.coco-bongo.ro. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. €€€. PESW

MACCHERONIRoman cuisine served in superb surroundings in the Old Town. The menu is big on seafood and fish, alongside a decent selection of grilled meat and vegetables. There’s superb antipasti - everything is made with original pro-duce shipped in from Rome - and the pasta is freshly made here. Good wine list too and prices are OK.QC-6, Str. Franceza 15, tel. (+4) 0722 25 93 60, www.maccheroni.ro. Open 12:00 - 2:00. €€. PSW

TRATTORIA BUONGIORNO We have always loved Trattoria Buongiorno, and have quickly become big fans of its most recent location in the Old Town. Decent Ital-ian food (there is a small but good selection of fish dishes which are well worth looking out for). and one of the big-

gest and busiest terraces in Bucharest (at the right time of year) make it a seriously good eat and watch the world go by type place. (And at weekends, it can feel like the whole city is going by).QC-6, Str. Franceza 52, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0733 11 04 64, www.trattoriabuongiorno.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also at (B-2) Str. Herăstrău 2; (B-4) B-dul Lascar Cartagiu 56; Baneasa Shopping Center, 1st floor. €€€. PBSW

VECCHIO 1812 We love it. Making fantastic use of a gor-geous old building on Strada Covaci, this Italian restaurant looks and feels like the kind of place you want spend all evening in. The food is superior Italian, as you would ex-pect from one of the city’s best chefs, and while prices are not cheap they certainly reflect quality. The jacket pota-toes in a salt crust are one of the best (and most original) starters we have ever tasted in Bucharest. Go there.QC-6, Str. Covaci 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 031 430 95 77, [email protected], www.vecchio1812.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:30. €€€. PSW

LEBANESEAL SAJ It’s the venue that brings the punters in: a big, heated, glassed-in terrace which means you can eat al fresco even while it’s snowing outside. The food is decent, fairly standard Lebanese fare, no worse or better than the many other Middle Eastern eateries in the area. It’s the location and people-watching spot you will come for.

OLD TOWN SHOPSSOUVENIR SHOP Everything you would want from a decent souvenir shop - with both Romania and Bu-charest branded gifts available - and more besides. We came across the best Dracula T-Shirts we’ve seen so far here, complete with the slogan: ‘Send more tour-ists, the last ones tasted great.’ We bought two.QC-5, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 32 25 40/(+4) 0723 65 55 84, www.souvenir-shop.com.ro. Open 10:00 - 21:00.

THOMAS ANTIQUES By common consent the best antique shop in the city. Stocks everything from fur-niture and paintings to clocks and decorations, with new pieces being added all the time. Upstairs you can even drink coffee, beer or cocktails in the bar: yep, sit and drink coffee on an antique chair and picture yourself doing the same at home.QC-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, (+4) 021 310 43 89, www.thomas-antiques.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PW


Old TownOld Town

QC-6, Str. Selari 10, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 90 52, www.alsaj.ro. Open 10:30 - 01:30. Fri, Sat, Sun open 24hrs. €€. PBSW

SINDBAD Lebanese restaurant in Old Town serving what might just be the best lentil soup in Bucharest. Fabulous fresh bread too (made on site) and a decent range of mut-ton dishes as main courses. There’s both an exterior (at the right time of year) and interior terrace, and the decor is vaguely Middle Eastern without over-doing it. We liked the comfy chairs.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 317 77 88, www.restaurantsindbad.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PVSW

MEDITERRANEANCHARME Some of the finest food in Old Town, served in one of the most elegant and classiest locations around. Check out the nice little touches such as high quality bread and olives, the high ceilings and airy atmosphere, then order some fine, light Californian-inspired cuisine. It’s a winner from start to finish.QC-6, Str. Smardan 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0737 50 38 90, www.charme.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. €€€€. PBSW

ROMANIANCARU’ CU BEREShould probably be the first stop on the food and drink list of any visitor to Bucharest. Wonderful interiors - painted ceilings, ornate woodwork - make the place an attraction in itself, but do not leave without trying some food. The breakfast is worth getting up early for, the sarmale with mamaliga terrific, and the baked apple a simple, tasty treat. They even serve their own rather good beer. The service is usually good (now: it never used to be; back in the 1980s and 1990s it was infamously bad) and there is a terrace in summer. We should also mention the touristy but nevertheless enjoyable folklore show which takes place most evenings.QC-6, Str. Stavropoleos 5, MU-niversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 60/(+4) 0726 28 23 73, [email protected], www.carucubere.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. €€€. PESW

CITY GRILL They call these places ‘your dining room in the city,’ and given the homely food and cheap prices (the lunchtime deals are just about unbeatable) they might just be right. Don’t expect haute cuisine, but do expect big por-tions of simple Romanian food. We like the carnati de plescoi, tasty smoked sausages made with mutton and pork. There’s a good selection of local beers to choose from too. Recently renovated, the place itself looks better than ever too.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0729 62 62 62, www.citygrill.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.. Also at (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 3, tel. (+4) 021 233 98 18 and many other locations. €€. PVEBSW

CRAMA DOMNEASCA Right in the heart of Bucha-rest’s historic centre, this is Romanian food of indeed

historic proportions. You can expect right royal portions of all your Romanian favourites, from spare ribs and mut-ton to tender pork steaks. The home baked bread is al-ways served warm (if it is not, send it back) and the wine flows copiously as evenings get longer and longer. It’s the kind of place where you will be discretely but content-edly loosening your belt before the night is done.QC-6, Str. Selari 13-15, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0733 15 98 46, www.cramadomneasca.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PVESW

LACRIMI SI SFINTI Romanian poet, revolutionary and raconteur Mircea Dinescu’s latest culinary adventure is this classy place in the Old Town. As much a showcase for the (very good) wines Dinescu produces on his country estate as anything else, the food is good: a selection of traditional Romanian dishes with a big focus on game. The prices are decent enough and though a little spartanly furnished and decorated the ambience is good: you want to stay way after you have finished your meal.QC-6, Str. Sepcari 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0372 77 39 99, www.lacrimisisfinti.com. Open 12:30 - 02:00, Mon 18:00 - 02:00. €€€. PESW

MANUC BISTRO Bucharest’s oldest inn (and one of only two surviving 19th century caravanserai in Europe - the other is in Albania). Nowhere else in the city can rival the setting, and fortunately the food is more than a match for the surroundings. Sit in the gorgeous courtyard (when the weather allows, of course) and enjoy a beer or good Romanian food: don’t miss the mici, the local speciality, but there is much more besides. We rather liked the baked duck served with stewed cabbage, and the mixed grill for two people is good value. The orange and chocolate cake is the pick of the desserts.QC-6, Str. Franceza 62, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 14 11, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PEBSW

TURKISHDIVAN From the Middle Eastern atmosphere and superb decor to the great service, Divan is a lesson in creating a good restaurant. The well-priced food is good value Turk-ish/Middle Eastern, and it’s very good indeed. They will

even cook you a whole lamb if you give them 24 hours notice. We opted for the less Sultan-like beef and lamb kebabs. Very good they were too. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe.QC-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 30 34, www.thedivan.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-2) Calea Flo-reasca 111-113. €€€. PBSW

OLD TOWN BARSBucharest’s bars generally fall in one of three groups: Cock-tail & Quirky where you will mainly find good cocktails, a laid-back atmosphere and the odd quirky feature, Upmar-ket (often hotel-based) bars for business folk and those looking to impress their dates, and Wine Bars, where fine grape is the order of the day.

COCKTAILS & QUIRKY55 JAZZ Old Town likes jazz, baby. This place is not a jazz club per se - there are not that many live events - but is instead a bohe-mian delight where the coolest dudes in town come to chat and enjoy the smooth easy listening sounds that get played on the sound system while sipping cocktails or outstand-ingly good coffee. Indeed, by day the remarkable design of this place - bright and colourful - makes it look more like a retro Italian coffee house than a smokey jazz den. We loved the drinks menu: a nice reminder of the days of vinyl, while the pretty waitresses are super efficient.QC-6, Str. Franceza 9, MP-ta Unirii, tel. (+4) 0731 67 27 28, www.55jazz.ro. Open 12:00 - 04:00. PEBW

BICICLETA The name means Bicycle, and it will not take you long to work out why: the place is by and large furnished and decorated with parts of old bicycles. On the second floor of a Lipscani house the place boasts a good long bar, plenty of stools (some of which incorporate old bike seats) and a couple of leather sofas for those who want something a bit more comfortable. Coffee by day and cocktails by night is the order of things, and at the weekend the place has a DJ and quite frankly rocks. Tour de France? Tour de force.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 38, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 61 62 98. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. PW


Old TownOld TownGOLF PLANET Something very different. It’s an 18-hole crazy-golf course, with added cafe, cocktail bar and comfy sofas. And it is all in the dark. Kind of: the lights are all fluo-rescent and futuristic. Brilliant for families during the day, at night grab a group of mates and get down here for a game of golf and a few beers. QC-6, Str. Halelor 5, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 310 64 69, www.golfplanet.ro. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. PW

LABORATORUL DE COCKTAILURI Our new favourite Old Town location? Possibly. It’s a cocktail bar (there is beer too, of course, on tap, as well as hundreds of teas) where everything has been thought out to the minutest detail. The name means Cocktail Factory, so you get your Tom Col-lins or Mojito or whatever takes your fancy in a conical flask, while the bar itself looks like an old pharmacy. Unusually, they have even invested in decent bar stools.QC-6, Str. Stavropoleos 8, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 52 80 40. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PNW

PAPIOTA Papiota is one of our favourite Bucharest bars. It is at first glance a lot like a certain other bar we will not name (packed with odd chairs, tables and industrial bits and bobs), but without the hipster attitude. Add in the fact that it is a bit bigger than many Old Town bars and that late on a Friday you stand a chance of getting in the door and you have a top place. It also has lots of big windows, the drinks are reasonably well priced (this is Old Town) and the music is clubby without over- (or under-) doing it.QC-6,

Str. Lipscani 43, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 367 27 77, www.papiota.ro. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. PBW

REHAB BAR An Old Town bar has to be a bit different these days to grab our attention: Rehab is just that. It’s the kind of place you see anywhere and everywhere, except in Bucharest. Until now. With cushions on wooden steps making impromptu seats and a sofa at the window, it’s just very different and highly welcome. The drinks menu is done in the style of a medical journal, and offers the usual mix of coffee, tea, cocktails and smoothies. For added quirkiness you get the bill in a sample bottle.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0726 12 25 52. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. PW

UPMARKETENTOURAGE CENTRUL VECHIYou will like this place. A nice long bar, proper tall bar stools and even leather armchairs for those who want to chill. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from one of the best bar menus in Bucharest: you will find something on it you fancy. There must be 100 lamps hanging down from the ceiling: all different. Startlingly brilliant place, refresh-ingly free of brewery branding too: always a bonus these days.QC-6, Str. Eugen Carada 5-7, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 93 79 72. Open 10:00 - 02:00. PSW

KLEIN BAR & BISTROBar and bistro inside the Rembrandt hotel. It’s a great place to enjoy a drink with friends, and the location at the edge of Bucharest’s newly-formed pedestrian zone makes it a favourite for those looking for something just a little more restful. Good bistro food too, and like the hotel itself, ev-erything comes at very reasonable prices. Even acts as an ad hoc Tourist Info Centre.QC-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUni-versitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PGW

SILK SKY BAROne of Bucharest’s genuine hidden gems. On the top floor of the itself rather discrete Z Boutique Hotel you are unlikely to see this place in passing: you need to know about it in advance. You can therefore really impress people with your inside knowledge of Bucharest by bringing them here. Expect drinks, good food, an in-the-know crowd and fine views over Piata Universitatii.QC-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4 (Z Boutique Hotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 55 55 05. Open 10:00 - 2:00.

THE BAZAAR Club Tropicana. It’s not every day you see a palm tree or two in a Bucharest bar, neither are there too many places in Old Town as big as this: there’s up-stairs (complete with comfy armchairs), downstairs, and on warmer evenings everyone spills out on to the street outside. On one of Old Town’s less-crowded streets this is a good alternative to the madness elsewhere. Music is

loungesque, supplied by a DJ who knows his onions. Fun and sunshine.QC-6, Str. Covaci 10, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0721 99 99 99, www.thebazaar.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:30, Fri 10:00 - 04:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 04:30. PW

THE DRUNKEN LORDSIt’s alright this place. We found a good, lively pub playing decent music and offering a vibe a little more upmarket than most other places in the Old Town (especially those in and around this little alleyway). Hosts live music, sports and regular cultural events. Not easy to find, it’s worth seeking out.QC-6, Intr. Nicolae Selari 3-5, MUniversi-tate, tel. (+4) 0736 23 88 15, www.thedrunkenlords.ro. Open 17:00 - 5:00. PEBSW

WINE BARSCORKS COZY BAR Nice little wine bar tucked away on an Old Town side street which quickly won itself a handy following of admirers and regulars. A look at the wine list will be enough to tell you why, offering as it does a vast range of wines from across the world. Almost all of them are available by the glass. The idea behind this place was to create a wine bar where anyone - no matter how little they know about wine - would feel welcome, comfortable and not be intimidated. In that regard, it’s a total success.QStr. Bacani 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 22 65, www.corks.ro. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PSW


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THOMAS ANTIQUES BAR Above the Thomas Antiques shop in Old Town is a cafe, tea house and bar where you can enjoy a hot white chocolate (or something stronger) while discussing the merits of the goods you’ve been ad-miring. There’s nothing quite like taking tea on an antique chair you might end up taking home. Regular events too, from string quartets to book launches and the like.QC-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, www.thomas-antiques.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PW

OLD TOWN PUBSBEER O’CLOCK This little pub in Pasajul Villacrosse has probably the biggest selection bottled beers in the city: so it is aptly named. With brews from all over the world you could drink a different beer every night for a month and not try the same one twice. What’s more, besides the beer they also have the appropriate glass in which to serve it: great attention to details. Tiny, with only a few places to sit, it’s worth reserving if you want to be sure of a seat. Note: there is a much bigger Beer O’Clock on Strada Gabroveni further down in Old Town. We prefer the tiny original.QC-6, Pasajul Vilacrosse, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0767 23 33 35, www.beeroclock.ro. Open 16:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-6) Str. Gabroveni 4. Open 17:00 - 02:00. PVSW

BIUTIFUL When you walk in, you will see where the name comes from: it is indeed biutiful, an enormous indus-trial-chic space with a little added glamour (check out the lights and the comfy sofas), creating a rather special atmo-sphere rather like an upmarket, contemporary central Lon-don bar and grill. The food is more than decent - salads, tapas and burgers - with the beef and horseradish sand-wich a confirmed winner; The fish and chips wasn’t bad ei-ther. A must visit for either drinks or food, preferably both. Note that they only take reservations up to 19:00, after that it’s first come first served.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 6-8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0737 29 72 97, www.biutiful.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 01:00. PSW

BORDELLO There is always something going on here, every night of the week. From quiz nights and live music to the burlesque every Friday night, this is a one-stop shop

for great nights out. There’s Heineken, Murphy’s and Pau-laner on tap and Sky Sports on four screens. The food is great, with some rather special tapas, including the ribs which are just about the best we’ve ever had in Bucharest. At the weekends, head downstairs to the Boudoir, and note that upstairs is the new Mulanruj Dining Theatre, with live cabaret on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. You can’t miss this place by the way: just look for the ‘tarts’ in their underwear beckoning you in.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPi-ata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PESW

EXPLORER’S PUB A likeable Irish pub on Strada Franceza whose biggest attraction - besides a more than decent pint of Guinness - is the vast collection of maps on the walls. We also like the fact that you can sit at the bar on a proper bar stool, while the selection of food is better - and more varied - than you would expect to find at your average pub. Very nicely done indeed.QC-6, Str. Franceza 9, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 19 01 31, www.explorerspub.ro. Open 12:00 - 03:00. PW

LA 100 DE BERI The name (as you might have guessed) means 100 Beers, and that’s exactly what they have here: beer, and lots of it, from all over the world. In fact, look-ing at the menu they have considerably more than 100 beers, and there is more besides: shorts and cocktails for those who don’t fancy a beer. Nice long, English-style bar.QC-6, Str. Covaci 8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0784 24 60 46. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PBW

OKTOBERFESTWhat makes this place so special is how very ordinary it is. You will find the crowd more local than foreign - never a bad thing - and ordinary ‘out for a drink and a good time’ locals at that, not the fitze crowd. The owners try to make something happen every night, whether it’s football on the television or impromptu drinking competitions. The house Oktoberfest beer is a bargain at 4 lei a glass. Up-stairs is Oktoberfest 2, which has a small terrace. The club Octopus is also inside (on the ground floor).QC-6, Str. Se-lari 9 -11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 33 32 33, www.oktoberfest-pub.ro. Open 24hrs. PNBW

RE:PUBLIC BRASSERIERe:Public is the best thing to happen to the Old Town in many a day. A big, bold venue which both looks and feels just right, it’s a party-central kind of place with a top selec-tion of beer, live music downstairs in the Bierhalle and some very good bistro food. There are top German sausages for a start (including currywurst), alongside one of the tastiest pork knuckles you will eat in this city. Oxtail stew and the chocolate and Guinness mousse were the other stand-out dishes we tried. Top draught beer selection too.QC-6, Str. Selari 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 86, www.therepublic.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. PESW

SANKT PETERSBURG PUB At the end of a well-marked passageway on Strada Gabroveni is this place, a bright, colourful bar and club that puts on something dif-ferent every night of the week. Besides the long cocktail list there are also - as you would expect for a Russian-themed placed - no fewer than seven kinds of vodka, and they even serve caviar pancakes. Definitely a first in Bucharest!QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 55, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 89 68/(+4) 0729 19 18 55, www.sanktpetersburgpub.ro. Open 12:00 - 04:00. PESW

SAPPHO PUB & GARDENSet around a sunken courtyard just off Strada Covaci Sap-pho boasts a large terrace (which is great in good weather) and cavernous interior (which has various rooms, all differ-ently themed). Hosts live music and various party nights,

and besides the beer and cocktails there is food if you’re hungry.QC-6, Str. Soarelui 3, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0754 25 33 83. Open 15:00 - 04:00. PEB

ST. PATRICK Big, well located and quite frankly cracking Irish pub in the Old Town area: it really sets the standard for the many others in the area. Looking every inch just like a proper Irish boozer, it’s a real pub all right with decent pub grub, Guinness and Kilkenny on tap, and more than efficient staff who ensure you do not have to wait long for a drink. Look out for the St. Patrick Party Room on the other side of the street: a kind of mini-St. Patrick. Quirky and cool.QC-6, Str. Smardan 23-25, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 03 36/(+4) 0755 11 00 08, www.stpatrick.ro. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PBSW

THE PUB - UNIVERSITATIIGood food and drink in a big, lively pub right on Piata Universitatii: very much Bucharest’s beating heart. The food in fact is what perked our interest in the first place: we had heard about the amazing burgers and just had to come and try them. We can confirm that The Pub serves one of Bucharest’s best burgers. There are wings, ribs and salads too, while on the beer front there is Staropramen, Stella, Hoegaarden, Leffe and Beck’s on tap. We also liked the fact that you can reserve the exat table you want directly on the venue’s website. A Bucharest first, we think.QC-5, Regina Elisabeta 9, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 84 37 82, www.thepubro.com/club. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00.


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OLD TOWN BEERHALLSBERARIA HANUL CU TEIWith its big long bar, lively atmosphere and regular crowd of beer drinkers out for a good time and not to pose, it would be easy to nominate this place as the best pub in the Old Town. Add in a brilliant range of sausages (weiss-wurst, bratwurst, Polish bangers and local mici) and it starts to get very difficult not to call this the best pub in Old Town. And when we tell you there is live music from a resident band at the weekends you will know you need to go there immediately.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65, tel. (+4) 0727 57 13 71, www.berariahanulcutei.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 05:00. PESW

BERARIA KOVACI Beer (more than 40 kinds), very good pizza and fair bit else besides in a rather nice setting on Strada Covaci, which, with the recent opening of a few other decent places is quickly becoming the new Lipscani street-to-be. Beraria Kovaci is a sweet little place, decked out with wood and boasting perhaps the comfiest chairs of any pub in the city. Drinks are well priced and service comes with a smile. An excellent place for a livener or two.QC-6, Str. Covaci 3, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 05 52/(+4) 0722 80 01 86, www.berariakovaci.ro. Open 14:00 - 02:00. PNW

CURTEA BERARILOROnce upon a time the whole of the Curtea Sticlarilor was given over to artisans - especially glassmakers - from whence the name. Now only a few survive and no less than four bars have opened here. This one has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea Berarilor (Brewers’ Court-yard), though there is no brewing done on the site. Instead make do with plenty of on-tap pints, of which the default option is Timisoreana.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Uni-rii, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 32, www.curteaberarilor.com. Open 13:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PBSW

RE:PUBLIC BIERHALLE Downstairs at Re:Public is the Bierhalle, which besides offering decent regular live music serves what is probably the best selection of draught beer

in the city. There’s an IPA, a Brown Ale and even cider on tap. With big long tables in classic beerhall style there are usually enough seats to keep punters happy, but at the weekend you will do well to reserve: it can get very busy.QC-6, Str. Selari 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 86, [email protected], www.therepublic.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. PESW

OLD TOWN CLUBS & DISCOSAs a general rule, Bucharest’s clubs can be divided into three categories (as we have): the upmarket, Uber-Clubs, where the trendy, fashionable and well-heeled go to party, Student & Underground clubs where you will find a mainly local crowd of young partygoers, and Live Music clubs which host live bands most nights of the week. There is a fair bit of crossover of course, but we think these three categories describe the city’s club scene reasonably well.

LIVE MUSICMOJO Three level extravaganza of a venue. On the ground floor is the pub, upstairs is the most popular kara-oke venue in the land, while downstairs in the cavernous cellar there is live music, and then some. In a nutshell, this place sets the standard for nights out in Old Town. The beer is a decent price, the crowd a mix of ages and nation-alities and the manager is a top bloke who makes a point of being nice to his customers. When ace local bands are not playing, the resident Mojo band usually is. Also now puts on regular quiz nights and live British stand-up come-dy too. Top notch.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata Uni-rii, tel. (+4) 0760 26 34 96, www.mojomusic.ro. Open 13:00 - 05:00. PEBW

OLD CITY Good pub and club with regular live music and other events on Lipscani with a huge beer garden out the back. Serves very good cocktails (a sweet as you like moji-to went down very well with Mrs. In Your Pocket) and some pub grub that is far better than you would assume. A big screen shows football and the like.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 45,

MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0729 37 77 74, www.oldcity-lipscani.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00. PEBSW

THE TUBE The concept, as the name suggests, is a tube station, and although the roundels are not the most convincing the rest of the signage (some of it from New York) and the concave walls make it more than passably tube-like. The entertainment is mainly live music from lo-cal bands, and the sound down here is outstanding. We’ve been twice and both times the crowd has been a good one: neither too young nor too old. Drinks are priced OK, and service decent enough. Worth a look.QC-6, Str. Lip-scani 30-34, tel. (+4) 0751 04 50 47, www.thetube.ro. Open , Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 21:00 - 05:00. E

TRUE SOCIAL CLUB In that wonderful location once known as Temple (on the corner of Strada Selari and Splai-ul Independentei) is True Club, an exclusively live music venue well worthy of your time (it’s owned and run by two legends of the Bucharest nightlife scene, who have a track record of delivering the goods). When the resident covers band or top local act isn’t performing you will find karaoke, and the sheer variety of themed nights and parties usually means that there is always something here for everyone. Drinks are a decent price and there are plenty of them to choose from.QC-6, Splaiul Independentei (corner with Str. Selari), MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0727 48 80 87, www.trueclub.ro. Open 22:00 - 05:00, Fri 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW

STUDENT & UNDERGROUNDBASTARDS Is that really what it is called? Yes: that is re-ally what it is called. In a Lipscani basement, with the walls stripped back to the red brick, this is a cocktail bar and club where the mood is different every night. It could be kara-oke, it could be rock night, it could be DJ Andrei Nicolescu spinning his old school electro tunes. Regardless of what is going on you will probably enjoy it.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 28, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0723 20 34 63, www.bastards.ro. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PENB

CLUB A Selling the cheapest beer in the Old Town, this place is a legend. If you want a local, unpretentious, up-for-a-laugh studenty crowd getting down to classic songs that you won’t have heard for ages, this is the one place in town you can be guaranteed to find it, every night of the week. Live music on most weekend nights, as well as all sorts of events during the week, from theme nights to theatre.QC-6, Str. Blănari 14, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 316 16 67, www.cluba.ro. Open 10:30 - 05:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 04:00. PEBW

FIRE CLUB A much-changed venue which over the past year or so has shed its shabby-chic look and which has be-come a bigger, brighter and less smokey venue than ever before. Still plays mainly rock for a crowd of the young and not-so-young, and to be honest it is as good as ever. We

have always liked the place and if you want to ‘go local’ it is one of your better options in the Old Town. There is also now Fire Pub out the back (although the entrance is from Strada Covaci): a small yet rather good boozer with a huge and very nice covered terrace/atrium.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 12, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0732 16 66 04, www.fire.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. PBSW

UPMARKET CLUBSCLICHE Big club on Strada Smardan. A modern and el-egant place serving coffee and cocktails the music caters pretty much to all tastes and there are various regular theme nights (Friday is Fashionable Friday, for example). Youngish crowd. Comfy sofas for crashing on a bonus.QC-6, Str. Smardan 41, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0729 05 62 54, www.clubcliche.ro. Open 12:00 - 05:00. PEBSW

FINNISH COCKTAIL & CLUB A little more chic and up-market than most other places in the Old Town, Finnish is a cocktail bar and club which brings a little contemporary Scandinavian design to the Romanian capital. The house drink is of course Finlandia vodka, available in more variet-ies than you ever thought possible, but there is more to this place than vodka: cocktails, wine, champagne and beer. They even have Guinness on draught. The music - usually provided by a DJ - is as contemporary and as good


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as the design, the crowd is a trendy one and we defy you not to enjoy yourself here.QC-6, Str. Selari 28, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0753 57 82 09, www.finnish.ro. Open 13:30 - 05:00. PBW

FREDDO The biggest, boldest place on Strada Smardan. Smart too: when it started raining we were about to run for cover only for the roof to be extended, keeping us all dry. Impressive. Now get there and enjoy sound cocktails, pizza and decent salads: and note you can enjoy it all at proper, big wooden tables. You might want to reserve at the weekends: this place is damn popular.QC-6, Str. Smardan 24, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0722 37 33 36, [email protected], www.freddo.ro. Open 12:00 - 05:00. PNBSW

LA MUSE Last time we popped in we met up with almost everyone we know in Bucharest. That’s the kind of place this is: on the surface it looks posh and flash and out-of-your-league (the lady at the entrance clutches a clipboard as though her life depends on it) but it is in fact a down-to-earth, come-as-you-are venue playing dance floor hits from across the decades to a crowd a bit older than elsewhere, which can afford the prices of the drinks. We love it.QC-6, Str Lipscani 53, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 0734 00 02 36/(+4) 0745 02 42 17, [email protected], www.lamuse.ro. Open 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PBW

THE VAULT We love the (long) nights we spend in this place, not least because you never know what to expect on the music front: it could be a night of pop, a night of disco classics, a night of indie beats or a night of up-to-the-minute clubby sounds. We suggest you take a chance and delve inside. Chances are you will enjoy yourself.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 29-33, MU-niversitate, tel. (+4) 0723 19 99 77. Open 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PNBW

OLD TOWN SIGHTSBANCA NATIONALA A ROMANIEI The National Bank (BNR) stands on the site of one of the most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul Serban Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various things, from a pub, to an inn to a dormitory for a nearby girl’s school. After two fires gutted the building however, the land was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR, completed to the designs of French architects Cassien Bernard and Albert Galleron in 1885. The building boasts a facade with Corinthian columns, and an enormous central banking hall.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 25, MUniversitate.

HANUL LUI MANUC (HANUL MANUC, MANUC’S INN) Built in 1808 the eneormous, three-level Hanul lui Manuc (Manuc’s Inn) is one of Europe’s last remaining car-avanserai. The interior courtyard is a spectacular sight and essential for any visitor to Bucharest, not least the grand staircase to your left as you enter from Strada Franceza. A hostelry ever since it opened the Han has seldom looked better, and is currently home to two restaurants: Manuc’s Bistro which serves Romanian food) and Levantin, a Leba-nese eatery. There is also a cafe, and in summer the court-yard is packed.QC-6, Str. Franceza, MPiata Unirii.

NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM (MUZEUL NA-TIONAL DE ISTORIE) The beautiful, monumental and simply superb Neo-Classical building that houses Romania’s National History Museum was constructed from 1894-1900 to the designs of local architect Alexandru Săvulescu. It originally served as the headquarters of Poşta Romană, the Romanian postal service. When the post office moved away in 1970, the History Museum moved in. The museum’s ex-hibitions are spread over 60 display rooms, although many are currently closed for renovation. The museum’s two most important collections, however, are very much open: the Lapidarium and the Romanian Treasury. The Lapidarium includes statues brought from a Bronze Age necropolis close to present day Cernavoda and a full-scale replica of Trajan’s Column. The Romanian Treasury includes jewellery from the time of the Geto-Dacians, as well as the current Romanian Crown Jewels, including the king’s crown and an amazing selection of emeralds made for Queen Mary. The bizarre statue on the museum’s steps allegedly represents the emperor Trajan holding a wolf.QC-5, Calea Victoriei 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 82 07, www.mnir.ro. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25 lei, pensioners 15 lei, students and children 7 lei.

OLD COURT PALACE & CHURCH (PALATUL ŞI BI-SERICA CURTEA VECHE) The Old Court, first built on this site in the second part of the 15th-century by Vlad Ţepeş, was considerably extended during the 16th cen-tury, by Mircea Ciobanul, and again a century later, this time at the hand of Constantin Brancoveanu. The palace was by and large destroyed by a series of fires in the 19th century however, and subsequently neglected. Much of what remains today was uncovered during archaeological digs that took place from 1967-72, when the palace ruins were first opened as a museum. There are fragments of the original 15th century walls, as well as remnants of the voievodal palace throne room, in which most of the relics found on the site are exhibited. Next door to the palace is the Old Court Church dating from 1545. It was enlarged in 1715, during the reign of Ştefan Cantacuzino, and the frescoes inside, painted by maestros Constantin Lecca and Mişu Papa, were added in 1847.QC-6, Str. Franceza, MPiata Unirii. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

PASAJUL MACCA-VILACROSSE Today packed with cafes - most of which offer hookah pipes and exotic tobaccos - Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse was built in 1891 as a conduit between Calea Victoriei - then the busiest street in the city - and the National Bank. It is named for a Catalan architect, Xavier Villacrosse, who from 1840-50 was the chief architect of Bucharest, and Mi-halache Macca, son-in-law of the building’s architect, Felix Xenopol. It is covered with an arcade yellow glass roof to allow natural light, also intended to encourage commerce at street level. In other words, this was Bucharest’s first shopping mall.QC-6, Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse; Calea Victoriei, MUniversitate.

STAVROPOLEOS CHURCH (BISERICA STAV-ROPOLEOS) The church was built in 1724 at the insis-tence of a Greek monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is charac-terized by its beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which the finest are on the main doors. The courtyard outside has a curious collection of tombstones dating from the 18th century, and you might often see skilled craftsmen work-ing on restoring them.QC-6, Str. Stavropoleos 4, MUni-versitate, tel. (+40) 21 313 47 47, www.stavropoleos.ro.

ROMANIAN BEERRomania has a long, proud history of brewing good beer, and while today there are just 20 breweries in the coun-try (there were more than 120 breweries in 1989), such statistics do not tell the whole story of beer in Romania, which is far from being a sorry one. With large amounts of investment from big foreign brewers the country’s best known beers have been saved from extinction and improved, and in a number of cases new brews launched: the current trend for unfiltered and lemon beers is one such example.

Fortunately for the visitor, improvements in quality have not increased prices: Romania remains home to one of the cheapest pints of beer in Europe. We have long sug-gested that the country’s marketing people use the fact in their international campaigns.

The best known local brands of beer are probably Ursus, Ciuc and Timisoreana. Ursus has been brewed since the 1870s, and if you ask ten Romanians what the national beer is, it is likely that at least nine will respond Ursus. Both Ursus and Timisoreana (brewed since 1718) are now owned by SAB Miller, which also produces the smaller brands Ciucas, Azuga and Stejar.

Ciuc (along with Silva) is owned by Heineken, while Carls-berg’s locally brewed Tuborg is also ubiquitous and popu-lar. Other notable beers include Interbrew’s Bergenbier.

Unfiltered wheat beers (bere nefiltrata) are very popular in Romania, the best probably being Ciuc’s, though you should also keep a look out for Paulaner’s white beer, found on tap in a number of Bucharest bars and pubs.

Also worth trying is the dark, bitter Ursus Black, a very different beer to most local brews. Silva’s Strong Dark is similar and equally good. A few venues in Bucharest have microbreweries, producing their own beer, or at least serve their own bespoke brew made elsewhere: Caru cu bere, Oktoberfest, Re:Public and Biutiful are three such places.

Imported beers are popular amongst young, wealthy urbanites, and you should never have too much trouble finding the major international brands: Heineken, Carls-berg, Peroni, Leffe, Hoegaarden and Stella Artois are all popular in Romania. And while imported beer is usually a couple of lei more expensive than the local stuff, no beer in Romania is likely to cost more than 10-12 lei, even in a club or trendy bar. A pint (or the local equivalent) of local draught (la halba) beer costs from 7-8 lei, often even cheaper. The one exception is Guinness. Found all over the country (it is very popular amongst Romanians) it is also relatively expensive.

Key Romanian words on the beer front include la halba (draught) and la sticla (bottled). In most bars and restau-rants the menu lists draught and bottled beers separately.

OLD TOWN JAZZ

BIG MAMOU CLUB In a city that is hardly awash with live jazz clubs, this place is now something of a legend. Though it looks less than inviting from out-side, once through the door you are in a world of great music and well-priced drinks. It is everything a good jazz and blues club should be, complete with a smoky atmosphere and a vast range of live acts who regularly play here.QC-6, Splaiul Independentei 2B, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 67 11 08/(+4) 0744 52 01 49, www.bigmamou.ro. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00, Sun 19:00 - 24:00. N


ShoppingOld TownBucharest’s main shopping areas are the shopping centres and malls listed below, as well as B-dul Magheru and - increasingly - Calea Victoriei.

BOOKSHOPSANTHONY FROST ENGLISH BOOKSHOPStocks a good range of fiction and non-fiction, plenty of children’s books, and a decent selection of books about Romania and Bucharest.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUni-versitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, www.anthonyfrost.ro. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

HUMANITAS KRETZULESCULarge bookshop selling a wide range of both Romanian and foreign language books.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUniversitate, www.libhumanitas.ro. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

SALA DALLES Bookshop with a large exhibition space out back that often hosts book and gift fairs. Always has a decent selection of books in English.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 18, MUniversitate. Open 10:00 - 21:00.

SHOPPING CENTRESAFI PALACE COTROCENI One of Bucharest’s biggest malls, with loads of top brand names and the added at-traction of an IMAX cinema, a large ice skating rink (open year round) and even an indoor roller coaster and chil-dren’s funfair.QB-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara, MPolitehnica, www.aficotroceni.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.

BANEASA SHOPPING CITY The largest mall in Bucha-rest. With more than 220 shops it makes everywhere else look quite small. Just past the old Baneasa airport you can get here on buses 131 or 301 from Piata Romana.QŞos. Bucureşti-Ploieşti 42D, www.baneasashoppingcity.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Restaurants Open 10:00 -23:00.

BUCURESTI MALL Recently extended in a major rede-velopment, this place - when opened in 1999 - was the first mall in the city. Hundreds of shops, including Marks & Spencer and H&M.QE-7, Calea Vitan 55-59, www.bucurestimall.com.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

PROMENADA MALL Opened in October 2013, this is currently Bucharest’s most talked-about mall. Featuring the usual mix of top stores, restaurants and cinemas, there is also a rooftop recreation area.QCalea Floreasca 246B, MAurel Vlaicu, www.promenada.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

UNIREA SHOPPING CENTRE A good shopping cen-tre in the heart of the city. There are fashion stores on the first and second floors with electronics and kids’ shops on floors three and four. An excellent Mega Image supermar-ket can be found in the basement.QC-6, Piata Unirii 1, MPiata Unirii, www.unireashop.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

MARKETSBucharest is home to a number of good markets, most of which stock a wide range of produce, at prices often (but not always) cheaper than the supermarkets. In season fruit and vegetables tend to be local, but do check what you are buying if you really want to make sure you are getting local produce. In winter, expect almost everything to be im-ported, and priced accordingly. Beyond the produce mar-kets there are a couple of bazaar-type places worth visiting, not least Complex Comercial Rahova, a place that stocks cheap everything. Take tram No. 32 from Piata Unirii to (al-most) the end of the line to find it. The big Flower Market on Calea Rahovei is also well worth a visit.

PIATA OBOR Bucharest’s biggest and perhaps most famous market. Co-lourful, huge, and always lively, it is not what it once was: where you used to be able to buy almost anything here, it is now a strictly meat, fish, dairy produce, fruit and veg-etable market, with Romanian goods (tuica and the like) also available in the newer of the two market halls.QE-4, Piata Obor, MObor. Open 06:00 - 20:00.

TARGUL VITAN-BARZESTI Every Sunday morning this place becomes Bucharest’s biggest and busiest flea market. It’s mayhem. More or less everything you can imagine can be found here, all prices negotiable. Next door is an enormous second-hand car lot. Bus 123 from Piata Unirii will get you here. Be brave.QSos. Vitan-Barzesti/Splaiul Unirii. Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Mon-Sat.

CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERIES

GALATECA GALLERY (NEOGALATECA GAL-LERY-SHOP) A gallery of applied art, housed in the rath-er splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. Features local and international contemporary artists, while the NeoGalateca shop sells fashion, accessories and designer objects from names including Muuto, Pols Potten, Seletti and ToyWatch, as well as local designers Andreea Badala (Murmur), Carla Szabo, Lucian Broscatean, Miki Puran (Ma-racuja), Cosmina Nicolescu (Fandacsia), Agnes Keszeg and Ciprian Vrabie. QC-5, Str. C.A. Rosetti 2-4, tel. (+4) 0376 20 31 77, www.galateca.ro. Open 12:00 – 20:00, Sat 11:00 – 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

ZORZINI GALLERY Fine contemporary art gallery working with both established and emerging Romanian artists that cor-respond to the gallery’s aesthetic agenda, which in-cludes graphics, painting, installation and mixed me-dia. Currently represents Nicolae Comanescu, Andrei Gamart and Oana Lohan. QC-5, Str. Thomas Masaryk 31, tel. (+4) 0727 89 07 20, www.zorzinigallery.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PLBSW

ST. DUMITRU CHURCH (BISERICA SF. DUMITRU DE JURAMANT) St. Dumitru Church (Biserica Sf. Dumitru) dates back to the 15th century. It was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1847 and the current building dates from 1852 but it has undergone numerous renovations due to damage from earthquakes. St. Dumitru is the patron saint of Bucharest.QC-6, Str. Pos-tei 2, MPiata Unirii.

ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH (BISERICA SFANTUL NICOLAE - BLANARI) The church was built in the 1880s as a private chapel for Romania’s first royal couple: Note that the king and queen still have special seats on the left and right of the church’s 18th century icon kept for them should they ever return.QC-6, Str. Blanari 16, MUniversitate.

ST. NICHOLAS STUDENTS’ CHURCH (SFÂN-TUL NICOLAE BISERICA STUDENŢILOR) Built in 1905-09 with a 600,000 gold rouble donation from Tsar Alexander II, this Russian orthodox church is topped with seven typically Russian onion domes and crowned with an orthodox cross. The wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis (catapeteasmă) is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhan-gelsk Cathedral, in Moscow’s Kremlin.QC-5, Str. I. Ghica 9, MUniversitate.

STRADA LIPSCANI & HANUL CU TEI Strada Lipscani gets its name from the large number of traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest trad-ing posts in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commer-cial street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name to the whole area. Ironically, its name and history aside, modern Str. Lipscani has little to recommend it, although it does have some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and a theatre. About two thirds of the way along Str. Lipscani is the Ha-nul cu Tei, a wonderful courtyard (once part of a large inn) which today houses art galleries, antique shops, second-hand book shops, gift shops, studios and portrait artists, as well as a lively terrace (in summer) and pub/restaurant, and an excellent souvenir shop.QC-6, Str. Lipscani, MU-niversitate.

SUTU PALACE / MUSEUM OF BUCHARESTMuch overlooked museum, despite its location in the very centre of the city. The highlight is probably the selection of maps of Bucharest through the ages, while there is also an original log from the Podul Mogosoaia: the forerunner of Calea Victoriei, in the days when the street was paved with logs. The exhibition is well captioned in Romanian and English, and while small an enjoyable hour can be spent here. You will leave feeling as though you want more, how-ever. The museum is housed in the elegant, Neo-Gothic Şuţu Palace, built from 1833-4 for the wealthy merchant Costache Şuţu.QC-5, B-dul I.C. Bratianu 2, MUniversi-tate, tel. (+4) 021 315 68 58, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6 lei, 3 lei children, students and pensioners. Children un-der seven free. Some temporary exhibitions cost extra.

UNIVERSITATEThe twin semi-circular buildings in Piata Universitatii which are in many ways the entrance to the Old Town were built in 1906 to serve as the headquarters of Roma-nia’s largest insurance company. In front of them are four statues, of Gheorghe Lazar (founder, in 1818, of the first Romanian school in Bucharest), Ion Heliade Radulescu (a founding member of the Romanian Academy), Mihai Voievod Viteazul (the first person to unite the three Romanian provinces, in 1600) and Spiru Haret (a math-ematician, astronomer and politician who as education minister in the 1880s and 1890s created the foundations of the modern Romanian education system). Opposite is the university building itself (pictured below), constructed over a twelve year period from 1857 to 1869 at the behest of Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time Prince of Romania. It originally housed three faculties (Law, Humanities and Sci-ence), but today houses just the Faculty of Letters and Lan-guages, as well as the university’s administrative depart-ments. The central corp of the building was entirely rebuilt in the late 1940s after it was destroyed during heavy allied bombing in 1944. Though rebuilt as an exact replica of the original, many sculptures and basreliefs by Carol Storck were deemed irreplaceable and lost forever.QC-5, Piata Universitatii, MUniversitate.

HANUL GABROVENI... OR IS IT?

HANUL GABROVENI (GABROVENI’S INN) Few Bucharest locals - let alone visitors to the city - are aware that the newly renovated Hanul Gabroveni, set to become a cultural centre this summer, is not, in fact, the original 18th century Hanul Gabroveni. Ac-cording to a group of local architects who publish the website rezistenta.ro, the building actually dates from the mid-19th century, and is named Hanul Hagi-Tudo-rachi. The rather plain facade - touted as a replica of the original Hanul Gabroveni - was actually renovated using a sketch from 1923 which may or may not have resembled the original. For what it’s worth, the actual Hanul Gabroveni, long since gone, was on the other side of the road, where Fire Club is today.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni, MPiata Unirii.


HotelsShopping

SOUVENIRSMUZEUL TARANULUI ROMAN (PEASANT MUSE-UM) The shop at the Peasant Museum has an outstanding selection of souvenirs and gifts. Of particular note are the traditional peasant clothes, as well as the icons and naive art.QB-3, Şos. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96 61. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

PAIDEIA Wonderful local gifts, including books, post-ers, greetings cards, objets d’art and even Romanian deli-cacies, from refined palinca to gourmet salts and honey.QB-dul Nicolae Balcescu 2-4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, www.cadouriculturale.ro. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Also at (C-6) Unirea Shopping Centre (Ground Floor).

SECOND CHANCE A wide range of good Romanian souvenirs handmade by people from disadvantaged backgrounds.QSos.Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa Shopping City), tel. (+4) 0726 17 36 43, www.romania-handmade.ro. Open 10:00 - 22.00.

SOUVENIR SHOP Everything you would want from a decent souvenir shop - with both Romania and Bucha-rest branded gifts available - and more besides. We came across the best Dracula T-Shirts we’ve seen so far here, complete with the slogan: ‘Send more tourists, the last ones tasted great.’ We bought two.QC-5, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 32 25 40/(+4) 0723 65 55 84, [email protected], www.souvenir-shop.com.ro. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

WINEBucharest has a decent selection of specialist wine stores, of which we list the best here.

BVS WINE BAR & SHOP Super little place on the edge of the Old Town run by the same people as the Van Gogh Cafe. It’s a wine bar and shop where you can find a fine selection of self-imported wines, tasting them all before you buy. You can also just pop in for a glass or two, although in our expe-rience once we’ve sat down at this charming place we tend not to get up again until closing time.QC-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 31 00 580, www.bvswines.ro. Open 14:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:30.

ETHIC WINE Wonderful wine shop, run by a friendly Englishman and his lovely wife, both of whom really know their stuff. There is a wide range of local grape, as well as a good selection of wines from Cricova in the Republic of Moldova.QC-3, Str. Banu Antonache 55, tel. (+4) 0722 63 37 89, www.ethicwine.ro. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Mon 15:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

THE WINERY OUTLET Bucharest outlet of the excel-lent Halewood Winery. You will find some of the best wines produced in Romania sold here.QSos. Mihai Bravu 132, tel. (+4) 021 252 10 32, www.halewood.com.ro. Open 09:30 - 21:30, Sun 09:30 - 14:30.

VINEXPERT There is always something worth spend-ing your money on here, whether its the latest vintage from Cricova or Tokaji, or more prosaic delights such as the dreaded Unicum (Vinexpert being one of the few places in Romania where we have found said liqueur). Will de-liver.QD-6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24, tel. (+4) 021 327 49 74, www.evinoteca.ro. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Also at (C-6) Unirea Shopping Center (P-ţa Unirii 1), and (C-6) Cocor (B-dul I.C. Bratianu 29-33).

LOCAL DESIGNERSA pair of handmade shoes from Romania’s top shoe designer, Mihaela Glavan, may not be the cheapest of souvenirs, but they will certainly be unique. All of Gla-van’s designs can be customised: visit her showroom at (A-4) Str. Sabinelor 104, tel. (+40) 730 09 73 23. For clothes by local designers, check out the huge Roma-nian Designers Gallery on the second floor of the Cocor Department Store, at (C-6) B-dul Ion Bratianu 29-33. You will find a wide range of designs by many of Romania’s best designers.

LOCAL ART

Look out for craft fairs being held at the city’s better mu-seums in order to find some gorgeous naive art. The Peas-ant Museum hosts regular such fairs, although not every weekend: you will simply have to get lucky. Suvenir de Bucuresti, a small art gallery specialising in classic scenes of Bucharest and Romania always has a great selection of paintings for sale: find it on (C-5) Strada Academiei. For those with more contemporary tastes, head for the Zorzini Gallery on (C-5) Strada Thomas Masaryk. The gal-lery represents three of Romania’s leading contemporary artists: Nicolae Comanescu, Andrei Gamart and Oana Lohan. Galateca on (C-5) Strada C.A. Rosetti is a gallery of applied art, housed in the rather splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. Its NeoGalateca shop sells fashion, accessories and designer objects from a num-ber of top local designers.

BUCHAREST MONOPOLYWe have long said that this should be the first thing on any list of must-have Romanian souvenirs. The clas-sic board game as you know and love it (or otherwise) given a local twist. The streets of London have been replaced with the streets of Bucharest. The cheapest property on the board is Rahova, while the most ex-pensive is Bulevardul Primaverii. Found in most good toy shops and larger supermarkets and hypermarkets, it sells for around 110 lei.

With the exception of the five-star hotels listed in the Cream of the Crop category, the price bands used refer to the rack rate for a double room.

CREAM OF THE CROPATHENEE PALACE HILTONSimply put, this has been one of Bucharest’s finest ho-tels for almost a century. It is a living piece of the city’s history - it dates from 1914 - and yet inside its historic facade you will find a most modern place to stay. There is a wide range of rooms to choose from: the best are those with views over Piata Revolutiei. Indoor pool and health club, terrific onsite dining and of course this is the home of the English Bar: probably Bucharest’s most famous bar.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. 272 rooms. POTHR6UFLGKDCW

CAROL PARC Luxurious, certainly, but offering some-thing a bit different to the bigger players, the Carol Park is coquette and secluded: you have to know about this place, as you do not find it by chance. A gorgeous place where the finest things are offered to all who pass through its doors, expect only fine, classic furnishings and very personal service. International stars who value discretion above all else tend to stay here when visiting Bucharest.QAleea Suter 23-25, tel. (+4) 021 336 33 77, www.carolparchotel.ro. 17 rooms. PHRLGKW

CROWNE PLAZA BUCHARESTContemporary and welcoming, the Crowne Plaza Bucharest offers all the reassuring global standards you would expect of the brand, from first class accommoda-tion to world class facilities. With a renowned reputation for individual and friendly service, the hotel can also of-fer the greenest setting in the capital, surrounded as it is by beautifully maintained grounds. Can also boast a large swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms (and bathrooms to match) and some outstanding drinking and dining options.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. 164 rooms. PTHRUFGKDCW

EPOQUENow here’s a hotel we have no problem in recommend-ing. Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the Epoque has a number of things going for it, not least its location on the edge of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the heart of the city yet at the same time offering the impression of a retreat. Rooms are large and tastefully furnished, there are plenty of extras (not least a plunge pool), breakfast is good and for what you get, the prices are a steal.QB-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C, tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.hotelepoque.ro. 44 rooms. PTHRUFLGKDCW

GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTALMaking the very best of a wonderful building (which dates from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, today’s Grand Hotel Continental is the result of more than two years of loving renovation and restoration. There’s marble at every turn, though do not think that modern touches are missing, for they are not. The audio-visual systems in the rooms for example are state of the art. For the great location and for a change from the big chains, it’s well worth trying out.QC-5, Calea Victoriei 56, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. 59 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDW

HOWARD JOHNSON GRAND PLAZA BUCHA-REST HOTEL This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre of Bucharest, where the sleek, modern exterior is matched by the interiors, all of which carry the signatures of top-name designers. The breakfast is perhaps the best in the city, coming as it does with champagne, and the dining opportunities in general are excellent: there is a wonder-ful Japanese restaurant, Benihana, on site. To really get the best out of this place though, ask for a room on one of the upper floors, for the views over the city.QB-3, Calea Doro-bantilor 5-7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 00, www.hojoplaza.ro. 285 rooms. POTHR6U�FLGKDW

INTERCONTINENTAL Still the tallest hotel in Bucharest (complete with a swimming pool on the top floor) the In-terContinental was the first major five star hotel to open in Romania, at the beginning of the 1970s. Today it is one of many but remains something of a first choice for journal-

SYMBOL KEY

P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted

O Casino H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre L Guarded parking

6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

D Sauna C Swimming pool

W Wifi


HotelsHotelsists and business people, many of whom have been loyal guests for decades. The rooms here all boast big balconies with great views of the city, there is first class dining in the building, and the management is commendably hands-on. The new Club Lounge on the 21st floor is the best in the city, offering great views of Bucharest, cocktails, meet-ing rooms, internet, a library and an all round exclusive atmosphere. Non-guests can use the Club Lounge for €35 per day. It’s open 06:30-22:30.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 2-4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20, www.intercontinental.com/bucharest. 257 rooms. POTHR6FLGKDCW

JW MARRIOTT BUCHAREST GRAND HOTELTo the south of Casa Poporului the JW Marriott occupies something of a palatial building that at first glance prob-ably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bu-charest’s big five star hotels. The scale of the place, and its cavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as part of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself. Yet the rooms are homely and well-furnished, providing a welcome contrast to the building. Plenty of good dining options, and home to the biggest swimming pool in the city (we think).QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90, tel. (+4) 021 403 00 00, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. 401 rooms. POTHR6UFLGKDCW

NOVOTEL BUCHAREST CITY CENTREFew locations are better than this, right on fashionable Calea Victoriei. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the

old neoclassical National Theatre which stood on this ex-act site until the British bombed it to next week during the Second World War. Shiny and new the main part of the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big, with bathrooms particularly impressive. Excellent, lively lobby bar and a big indoor swimming pool are other added benefits of staying here.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 37B, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www.novotel.com. 258 rooms. POTHR6UFLGKDCW

PULLMAN BUCHAREST WORLD TRADE CENTERThe spacious, luxurious rooms are the main attraction at this high rise in the north of the city, where the bathrooms boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. There are separate showers, and all in all we think that the square-me-terage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere else in Bucharest. A good on-site steak house keeps you well fed, and though there is no pool there is a good fitness centre with sauna and massage available.QA-1, P-ta Montreal 10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. 203 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDW

RADISSON BLU A gleaming temple of steel and glass amongst the more classical buildings of Calea Victoriei, the Radisson excels in playing the role of futuristic Bucha-rest hotel of choice. As you walk in the glass bar strikes you as daring and modern, and the rooms themselves are equally avant garde in design. Bathrooms offer both tubs and showers, and there is both an indoor and outdoor pool, so you can swim whatever the weather. Excellent restaurants, especially the sublime Prime Steaks and Sea-

food.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest. 718 rooms. PHRUFLGKDCW

OVER €150ALEXANDER Big, plush hotel close to Bucharest’s high-rise business district of Pipera. Rooms are all well-sized and impeccably furnished and come with a host of extras. The bathrooms are particularly luxurious. The hotel has a good little spa centre with sauna, Turkish bath and jacuzzi. Great breakfast - which is amongst the city’s best - included in the price of your room.QSos. Pipera-Tunari 1/VI, tel. (+4) 021 569 51 10, www.alexanderhotel.ro. 73 rooms. PHRFLKDW

CISMIGIU One of the most famous hotels in Bucharest (there is even a song about the place: Hotel Cismigiu, by Vama Veche) reopens its doors after being closed for al-most two decades. In a fantastic location right in the heart of the city, millions have been spent making the hotel look better than at any time in its century-old history. The contemporary rooms - all of which are in fact suites - are enormous, many even boasting kitchens. There’s a fitness centre, wifi throughout, a great breakfast is includ-ed and there is even onsite parking. Worth every penny.QC-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 403 05 00, www.hotelcismigiu.ro. 60 rooms. PTHRUFLGKW

NH BUCHARESTNot located in the most attractive area of the city, the NH makes up for that by offering a modern, contem-porary hotel experience for a fair amount of money: you can usually stay here for far less than the rack rates. Expect well sized rooms with plenty of extras and a very good on site restaurant. Good place to stay with children and babies: the staff make a point of making them feel welcome.QD-6, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel. (+4) 021 300 05 45, www.nh-hotels.com. 76 rooms. PTHRUFLGKW

RAMADA BUCHAREST PARCThe Hotel Parc has been around a while, but only came under the Ramada banner a short while ago. A high-rise in a leafy suburb (close to Romexpo and Herastrau Park - hence the name) it boasts nice rooms which - while not huge - are comfortable and boast brightly coloured décor and gorgeous, soft cotton sheets on the beds. Great buffet breakfast included in the price.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021 549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro. 267 rooms. PHRGKW

RAMADA MAJESTICStanding (dare we say it) majestically on Calea Victoriei, the Majestic has long been one of Bucharest’s best hotels. It of-fers very big rooms with glorious bathrooms, a great break-fast and - a real bonus - a swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). In a city in which even some of the five star hotels lack pools, the Majestic’s makes it well worth that little bit


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extra cash.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 38-40, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72, www.ramadamajestic.ro. 111 rooms. PTHRUFLGKDCW

RAMADA PLAZA BUCHAREST Slightly more up-market than its sister establishment across the road, what you get here is a slightly bigger room than at the Parc, and much bigger bathrooms. The design of the place is nicely futuristic, and we loved the beds which we think are amongst the best in Bucharest. Free Wifi is a bonus, there is a good lobby bar and a decent on site bistro. Good value for the money.QB-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021 549 30 00, www.ramadaplazabucharest.ro. 298 rooms. PHRUFGKW

€100-150ANGELO AIRPORTHOTEL BUCHARESTThe hotel closest to Bucharest’s Otopeni airport. The Angelo is operated by Vienna International Hotels & Resorts, and its bright exterior is matched by the interior: bold colours abound in all the rooms and the common areas. There is high speed Wifi throughout, and a fitness centre complete with sauna. Transport to and from the airport is compli-mentary. Great buffet breakfast.QCalea Bucurestilor 283, tel. (+4) 021 203 65 00, www.angelo-bucharest.com. 177 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDW

BERTHELOT Smart, modern and dead central. What more could you want? For your money you are getting

a good deal here: the rooms are big and well furnished with plenty of mod cons, such as LCD televisions, while the bathrobes in the sumptuous bathrooms are suitably fluffy and the cosmetics a cut above the norm.QB-5, Str. General Berthelot 9, tel. (+4) 031 425 58 60, www.hotelberthelot.ro. 43 rooms. PTHRLGKW

CAPITAL PLAZASmart place at the northern edge of the city centre, about five minutes walk from Piata Victoriei. The rooms are big and furnished in a modern style, with unobtrusive co-lours and smart lines. Bathrooms are good, and the range of free cosmetics is impressive. Top onsite restaurant too, the 1880.QB-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.capitalplaza.ro. 95 rooms. PTHRUFLGKW

DUKE Now this place is central. A proverbial stone’s throw from Piata Romana, this modern hotel is squeezed in to a tight spot between two classic Bucharest buildings of the past. Rooms are well-sized, bathrooms have tubs and showers, and there’s free and fast Wifi throughout. Beds get high marks for their excellent mattresses.QC-4, B-dul Dacia 33, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 317 41 86, www.hotelduke.ro. 37 rooms. PRGKW

RESIDENCE ARC DE TRIOMPHEFantastic hotel in a good area of the capital, offering large, excellent value rooms and super services. There are little touches of class all over the hotel that suggest they really

care. The wrought iron beds, for example, are fabulous, as is the newly added spa, complete with sauna and jacuzzi. The restaurant is also worth a visit, serving good interna-tional cuisine.QA-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 021 223 19 78/(+4) 0372 15 07 00, www.residencehotels.com.ro. 35 rooms. PTHRLGKDW

RESIDENCE DOMENII PLAZAA wonderful villa, this place offers real luxury and a qui-et, understated atmosphere. It’s a classy place for classy people, basically. All the rooms, studios and apartments are bright, big and have stunning bathrooms. It also has a fantastic spa, complete with sauna, steam bath and enormous jacuzzi, perfect for tired business types in need of evening relaxation. The food in the restaurant is out-standing.QA-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 44, www.residencehotels.com.ro. 33 rooms. PTHRLGKDW

UNDER €100ANDY You can see Gara de Nord from your bedroom win-dow if you stay here: you can decide for yourself if that’s good or bad. It’s a decent hotel, especially compared to those surrounding it, and if you are in two minds as to which station hotel to stay in, make sure you choose this one. It even has a sauna and jacuzzi.QA-4, Str. Wit-ing 2, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 30 50, www.andyhotels.ro. 49 rooms. PR6GKDW

BOUTIQUE HOTEL MONACOA nice place on a quiet(ish) street yet still close enough to the city centre to be within walking distance. There is an elegance to the decoration that suggests they’ve taken real time and effort over things, and the beds are large, comfortable and covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wifi, flatscreen TVs, good bathrooms. The kind of place you feel should cost a lot more than it does: seriously good value for money.QC-5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74, tel. (+4) 021 310 56 68, www.hotelmonaco.ro. 8 rooms. PTLW

CAROThe Caro is in fact three hotels in one: the Caro Golf, a four-star establishment offering very swish rooms, the Caro Parc: one of the best three-stars in the city, and the out-standing value budget two-star Caro Horoscop. All three offer bright rooms with excellent bathrooms, and there is terrific buffet breakfast in the Belvedere restaurant. The surroundings are leafy and yet the city’s business district is just across the street. There is free wifi at the Caro Golf.QC-1, B-dul Barbu Văcărescu 164A, MAurel Vlaicu, tel. (+4) 021 208 61 00, www.carohotel.ro. 188 rooms. PTH6UFLKDCW

CHARTERFor what you pay at this hotel, you get a large amount of room indeed. Really: these must be the biggest hotel rooms in Bucharest, and they cost about €1 per square metre. Close to the airport (on the other side of the road to


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McDonalds) this place is perfect if you have an early flight, though it is only fair to say that it is a good 30 minutes or so to the city centre. Still, with rooms and services to match anywhere, and at very low prices, we doubt any-one will be complaining.QDrumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352 87 19, www.hotelcharter.ro. 21 rooms. PTRLGW

DANServing a terrific buffet breakfast (until 11:00) this hotel has long been one of our favourites. Its location a short distance from the city centre is good, and the rooms are well sized, as are the bathrooms: all of which have tubs, not just showers. Good, friendly staff and the kind of homely atmosphere you would expect of a small well-run hotel.QB-4, B-dul Dacia 125, tel./fax (+4) 021 210 39 58, www.hoteldan.ro. 15 rooms. PHRULGW

DOUBLETREE BY HILTONLocated just off Bulevardul Unirii, the DoubleTree is some-thing of a beacon of glass and steel in an area not known for anything except monumental socialist architecture. The hotel is a decent place offering big-ish rooms, with commendably big bathrooms. Happy, multi-lingual staff are a bonus not always found in Bucharest’s ho-tels. Good cafes (there are two) to choose from: one has a covered terrace.QD-7, Str. Nerva Traian 3A, tel. (+4) 021 200 62 70, www.doubletree.com. 87 rooms. PTHRUFLGKDW

GOLDEN TULIP TIMESThis, people, is a very good hotel where you get a hell of a lot of room for a relatively small amount of money. All come fur-nished well with terrific beds, big desks and comfy armchairs. Bathrooms are equally impressive and modern. There is Wifi throughout and a host of extras: not least of which is the fan-tastic breakfast. The on site restaurant is one of the best hotel-based eateries in the city.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16,, www.goldentuliptimes.com. 70 rooms. PTHRLGKW

GOLDEN TULIP VICTORIA BUCHARESTHalf-way along Calea Victoriei, a pleasant walk to both Piata Victoriei and Piata Universitatii, the Golden Tulip is a fine ho-tel that makes great use of the space available. The bath-rooms for example are not huge but feel far bigger than they are, and all have enough room for bathtubs. Bright and modern in design we think it’s suited best to business travellers looking to get great value for their company’s dollar.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 166, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 212 55 58, www.goldentulipbucharest.com. 81 rooms. PTHRUFLGKW

HELLO HOTELSTwo stars never looked so good. For your paltry amount of cash you are getting a lot of hotel room here, complete with flat screen televisions and mattresses thicker than many a five-star. Bathrooms are a bit pokey but they are more than adequate, and as far as value for money goes we think this is one of the best deals in the city. Find the

place a short walk from the station.QB-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00, www.hellohotels.ro. 150 rooms. PR6ULGKW

HOTEL NONNA MIAA bed and breakfast with an Italian twist (the fantastic restaurant on the ground floor). Homely rooms with bags of character, good bathrooms and kitchenettes. Add in great staff and a quiet location and you have one of Bu-charest’s real bargains. We love the place.QC-3, Str. Chile 10, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 021 231 22 83, www.nonnamia.ro/hotel-nonnamia. 6 rooms.

IBIS GARA DE NORDA hotel for more than 40 years this building (and the whole area) was given a real lift when it became a good old Ibis some several years ago now. Expect a room a bit bigger than standard Ibis size, the usual services, few frills (breakfast costs extra) and all in all a good value stay. The name is not misleading: it is dead opposite the sta-tion.QA-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 91 00, www.ibishotels.ro. 250 rooms. PHR6ULGKW

IBIS PALATUL PARLAMENTULUIIf you want a view of Casa Poporului then this is perhaps the best place in Bucharest to come. Other than that it is a fairly standard Ibis hotel, just as you love them from

anywhere else on the planet. Not entirely ideally lo-cated if you are not driving, it does boast non-smoking rooms and very good staff.QB-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel. (+4) 021 401 10 00, www.ibishotels.ro. 161 rooms. PTHR6ULGKW

MINERVAIt is really hard to knock the Minerva so we will not even try. Having been around so long it is entitled to a gold watch, it remains a great choice for business people who pay their own bills: you get great service, a good room (a choice of smoking or non-smoking), a dead-central location yet are only asked for a fraction of what the five-stars charge. The oldest Chinese restaurant in Romania is located on the ground floor, there is a lively bar and a good spa, complete with jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath and massage.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 311 15 55, www.minerva.ro. PHRFGKDW

RAMADA HOTEL & SUITES BUCHAREST NORTHWell located in a quiet residential area near Herastrau park. It has great rooms - amongst the biggest, on aver-age, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are tremendous: all have bathtubs. There are also studios with kitch-enettes for longer stays. The hotel boasts a good spa centre (with excellent Turkish bath), a big fitness room with loads of equipment and an outdoor terrace and


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swimming pool. Good lobby bar and fine-dining in the restaurant too.QC-6, Str. Daniel Danielopolu 44A, tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00, www.ramadanorth.ro. 232 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDCW

SARROGLIA HOTELBright, contemporary and architecturally stunning hotel that looks expensive yet costs relatively little. The rooms are minimalist yet chic and pack a real punch in the com-fort stakes, and each comes with an individual feel to it, often in the form of a full-wall mural. The location is close enough to the centre to be attractive while remaining res-idential: this is a quiet area of town. The hotel’s restaurant and lounge provide colour and panache.QC-5, Str. Vasile Lascar 59, tel. (+4) 031 412 60 00, www.sarrogliahotel.com. 32 rooms. PHRUFLGKW

TRIANONIf location really is everything then you can’t do much better than this cracking place on Str. Cobalcescu, next to the Ministry of Defence and opposite Cismigiu Park. The building is a superb Secession renovation on a street that boasts some extraordinary buildings: it is a shame not all are up to this standard. Inside the rooms are simple, tastefully decorated and offer excellent value for money. Bathrooms have either a bath or a shower.QB-5, Str. Grigore Cobalcescu 9, tel. (+4) 021 311 49 27/(+4) 021 311 49 28, www.hoteltrianon.ro. 26 rooms. PTHR6UGKW

OLD TOWN HOTELS

EUROPA ROYALE BUCHAREST The Europa Royale is a gorgeous place that complements instead of over-powering its surroundings. Literally a stone’s throw from where Bucharest began, at the Curtea Veche, facing Piata Unirii, it is as ideally located as you ever hope for. Inside the rooms are big, classy and we found the staff exem-plary. QC-6, Str. Franceza 60, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 319 17 98, www.europaroyale.com. 92 rooms. PTH6UGKW

REMBRANDT The Rembrandt is what happens when people with taste renovate buildings in Old Town Bu-charest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs – unsur-prisingly – to the same people). Luxurious without over-doing it, expect to find original 1920s wooden floors and period furnishings complimented by up-to-the-minute technology.QC-5, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, fax (+4) 021 313 93 16, www.rembrandt.ro. 16 rooms. PTRUGKW

TANIA-FRANKFURT This is a cracking little place in the very heart of Old Town, just a shake or two away from the city’s best nightlife. Rooms are good value, bright and airy, and are furnished in a modern, bright and airy style. The best is the split level sky room, with its sky light and raised sleeping area. There’s free inter-net for guests.QC-6, Str. Selari 5, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 319 27 58, www.taniahotel.ro. 13 rooms. PRGKW

Z EXECUTIVE BOUTIQUE HOTELIn a building on a street hidden a little behind the Sutu Palace this is a great place from which to enjoy the delights of Old Town and indeed the whole of cen-tral Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern, tastefully furnished and come with comfortable beds and good bathrooms. The breakfast room is great, and there’s an on site bistro with great views of the busy streets outside.QC-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 140 02 00, www.zhotels.ro. 21 rooms. PTHR6ULGKW

SHORT-TERM RENTAL

APART HOMES A range of city-centre apartments, from studios to two-bedroomed places, as well as a villa in Baneasa. They have someone on call 24 hours for any emergencies, maid service twice a week and offer a variety of other services. Prices from €50-150.QC-6, Str. George Valentin Bibescu 33, bl. X/2, sc. A, ap. 6, tel. (+4) 021 232 04 06, www.aparthomes.ro. 20 rooms. PTR6GW

CERT ACCOMMODATION A very good selection of fully furnished, elegant, serviced studios, one, two and three bedroom apartments in and around the city cen-tre. Cleaning is free, and they can also arrange car hire and airport transfers. Prices from €40-100. Cheaper rates for longer stays.QB-5, Piata Walter Maracineanu 1-3, tel. (+4) 0720 77 27 72, www.cert-accommodation.ro. 21 rooms. POTFLGKW

GRAND ACCOMMODATIONGrand Accommodation has a variety of well furnished apartments and villas to suit all pockets in good loca-tions available for both short and long term rentals. Prices from €30-80/night.QB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 29, tel. (+4) 0722 36 75 68/(+4) 021 314 49 50, www.for-rent.ro.

HOSTELS & VILLASDOORS HOSTEL Clean, colourful and rather spacious hostel a short walk south from Piata Unirii. Located in a classic Bucharest house it benefits from a gorgeous gar-den/courtyard, an all you can eat breakfast and free Wifi, amongst much else. Note that they have only shared, mixed dorms: there are no private rooms. Prices from €12-35.QC-7, Str. Olimpului 13, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 336 21 27, www.doorshostel.com. 5 rooms. PTLGKW

VILA 11 Located in a lovely 1920s house close to Gara de Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Go-lescu) Vila 11 has a variety of private rooms, dorm facilities

and family suites available for backpackers and families of all ages. Friendly and welcoming the owners do a great breakfast (included in the price) and are a wealth of inside info when it comes to getting the best out of Bucharest. Prices from €20-54.QA-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar 11, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00, [email protected]. 6 rooms. T6GW

X HOSTEL Already forging for itself something of party-central reputation. Good, clean dorms and bathrooms, and a number of singles for those who can splash the extra cash. Prices from €5-45. Free Wifi, but breakfast not included.QC-6, Str. Balcesti 9, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 76 13/(+4) 0785 21 15 15, www.xhostel.eu. 24 rooms. PT6GKDW


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CLEANERSEGNATE Professional cleaning service: apartments, hous-es, offices etc. They will even come and clear up after you have had the builders in, and can take care of tricky things such as marble and furniture.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 10, tel. (+4) 0734 11 15 55/(+4) 0723 89 22 86, [email protected], www.egnate.ro.

DENTISTSB.B. CLINIC - GERMAN DENTISTUnquestionably the best dentist in the city. What’s more, you can bring the kids too, as they now have a special room

at the Dorobanti location equipped especially for young’uns.QD-6, Str. Ionescu Gion 4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51, [email protected], www.germandentist.ro. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. For emergencies (24hrs) tel. (+4) 0744 49 91 99. Also at (B-2) Calea Dorobantilor 208, tel. (+4) 021 231 88 56. PT

DRY CLEANERS5ASECQB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 111, tel. (+4) 021 236 00 98/(+4) 0762 28 53 47, www.5asec.ro. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at (E-7) Calea Vitan 13, tel. (+4) 021 320 99 95; Jolie Ville, Str. Erou Iancu Nicolae 103, tel. (+4) 021 206 80 80; Colosseum Mall, Sos. Chitila, tel. (+4) 021 796 13 11; B-dul Alex. Serba-nescu 60-64, tel. (+4) 021 891 98 44; Cora Alexandrei, Sos. Alexandrei 152, tel. (+4) 021 776 91 21.

FOREIGN REPRESENTATIONSAUSTRIA QC-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021 201 56 124. BELGIUM QD-4, B-dul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 29 69. BULGARIA QB-3, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50. CANADA QA-3, Str. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 307 50 00. CROATIA QD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 36 55.

LA BIBLIOTEQUEWow, we like this place. It’s unique, genuinely differ-ent: a beauty salon and library, housed in one of the most glorious villas in the city. It sounds as though it shouldn’t really work, but it does, thanks in the main to terrific design and a great community of people and friends that has quickly grown up around the place. It’s popular for book launches and the like. We recommend you go there, it’s a genuine Bucharest first.QB-3, Str. Duiliu Zamfirescu 10, tel. (+4) 021 212 51 71/(+4) 0749 77 77 77, www.labibliotheque.ro. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. PW


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PLASTIC SURGERY

DR. INA PETRESCUIna Petrescu has more than 14 years plastic surgery experience behind her at Bucharest’s leading hos-pital: the University Hospital at Eroilor. Petrescu has benefitted from prestigious internships at some of Europe’s leading clinics (including St. Andrew’s Centre, Broomfield Hospital in the UK and the Villa Bella Clinic in Italy) and her private practice offers all kinds of plastic surgery at rates far below those in western Europe. Petrescu can offer a full range of interventions, including: abdominoplasty, bepharo-plasty (eyelid surgery), body contouring (liposuction), botox and hyaluronic acid injections, breast augmen-tation, breast lifts, breast reconstruction after cancer, ear reshaping, facelifts, labiaplasty, lipofilling, lipocryo (non-surgical fat reduction), EndyMed 3DEEP RF treat-ments for tightening and contouring, radiofrequency for rosacea and spider veins, peeling, hand surgery, microsurgery of peripheral nerves, skin tumor surgery and scar revision.QA-4, Str. Inginer Gheorghe Duca 26, Ap. 1, tel. (+4) 0722 55 68 38, www.facebook.com/reconstructie.mamara.

CZECH REPUBLIC QC-5, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021 303 92 30. DENMARK QD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 3, tel. (+4) 021 300 08 00. FINLAND QB-3, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 45. France QB-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021 303 10 00. GERMANY QB-3, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, tel. (+4) 021 202 98 30. GREECE QE-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 209 41 70. HUNGARY QC-4, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 63-65, tel. (+4) 031 620 43 00. IRELAND QB-4, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021 310 21 31. ITALY QB-4, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00. MOLDOVA QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021 230 04 74. NETHERLANDS QB-3, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel. (+4) 021 208 60 30. NORWAY QB-3, Str. Atena 18, tel. (+4) 021 306 98 00. POLAND QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 23, tel. (+4) 021 308 22 00.

PORTUGAL QB-3, Str. Paris 55, tel. (+4) 021 230 41 36. RUSSIA QB-3, Sos. Pavel Kiseleff 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70. SERBIA QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 021 211 98 71. SLOVAKIA QC-5, Str. Otetari 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 61 00. SPAIN QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 10 80. SWEDEN QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00. SWITZERLAND QB-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 16-20, tel. (+4) 021 206 16 00. UK QC-4, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel. (+4) 021 201 72 00. USA QB-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00.

PHARMACIESHELP NET QC-6, B-dul Unirii 27, tel. (+4) 031 405 04 59, www.helpnet.ro. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, tel. (+4) 031 405 04 79 and many other locations.

SENSIBLU QB-3, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 233 89 61, www.sensiblu.com. Open 00:00 - 24:00 Open 24hrs. Also at (C-5) B-dul N. Balcescu 7, tel. (+4) 021 305 73 14 and many other locations.

REMOVALS / STORAGEAGS WORLDWIDE MOVERS QB-dul Basarabia 256 (Faur Industrial Park, gate 4, entrance from B-dul 1 Decembrie 1918), tel. (+4) 021 345 06 66, www.ags-worldwide-movers.com. EURO MINI STORAGE QB-dul Theodor Pallady 42 J, 3rd District, Bucharest, tel. (+4) 031 100 18 88, www.euroministorage.com.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

AMERICAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLQSos. Pipera-Tunari 196, Comuna Voluntari, tel. (+4) 021 204 43 00/(+4) 021 204 43 01, www.aisb.ro.

ATHENA GREEK SCHOOL OF BUCHARESTQD-6, Str. Parfumului 9, www.greekschool.ro.

BRITISH SCHOOL OF BUCHARESTQErou Iancu Nicolae 42, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 19/(+4) 0728 13 34 33, www.britishschool.ro.

BUCHAREST CHRISTIAN ACADEMYQD-7, Aleea Mizil 62B, tel. (+4) 021 323 58 87/(+4) 021 323 54 08, www.bcaromania.org.

CAMBRIDGE SCHOOL OF BUCHARESTQB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 39, tel. (+4) 021 210 21 31/(+4) 021 210 21 38, www.cambridgeschool.ro.

INTERNATIONAL BRITISH SCHOOLQE-5, Str. Agricultori 21-23, tel. (+4) 021 253 16 98, www.ibsb.ro.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL FOR PRIMARY ED-UCATION (INSPE)QStr. Petre Aurelian 72, Green Lake Residence, tel. (+4) 021 380 35 35/(+4) 021 380 36 36, www.inspe.ro.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BUCHARESTQSos. Gara Catelu 1R, tel. (+4) 021 306 95 30, www.isb.ro.

IOANID PRESCHOOL INTERNATIONAL EDU-CATIONQStr. Jandarmeriei 14, tel. (+4) 0746 04 10 00, www.internationalkindergarden.ro.

JAPANESE SCHOOL IN BUCHARESTQA-2, Str. Alexandru Constantinescu 61, tel. (+4) 021 222 19 85, www.jpschool.ro.

LAUDER-REUTQC-6, Str. Iuliu Barasch 15, tel. (+4) 021 320 15 38, www.lauder-reut.ro.

LYCEE FRANCAISQB-4, Str. Christian Tell 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 58 93/(+4) 021 212 58 94, www.lyfrabuc.ro.

MARK TWAIN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLQStr. Erou Iancu Nicolae 25B, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 12/(+4) 0724 00 09 00, www.marktwainschool.ro.

MARKET VALUES

€1 is currently worth 4.52 lei. A pint of local beer in a central Bucharest bar or pub will cost you around 8 lei (€1.77). A McDonald’s Big Mac costs 11 lei (€2.45), while a loaf of plain bread in a local store is 1.20 lei (€0.27). A packet of 20 international brand cigarettes costs 14.50 lei (€3.21), and one litre of standard unleaded petrol 5.95 lei (€1.32). A one-trip ticket for public transport ticket costs 1.30 lei (€0.29).

http://bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Golden Tulip

Moxa

Children’s Emergency Hospital

Emergency Hospital

Romanian NationalRugby Stadium

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Dan

Duke

Howard JohnsonGrand Plaza

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Casa V

ictor

Picollo MondoResidence Arcul de Triumf

Hello

Ibis Garade Nord

Marshal Garden

Nonna Mia

Institutul Matei Bals

PeasantMuseum

GrigoreAntipa

Museum

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Yeshoah Tova

RomanianTelevision (TVR)

Arc de Triumf

Piata Obor

Northern Bucharest

M

M

Radisson Blu

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Z Boutique

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International

NH

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Trianon

Ambassador Boutique Hotel Monaco

Andy’s

Volo

Central

Cismigiu

Opera

Berthelot

Art CollectionsMuseum

NationalArt

Museum(MNAR)

HistoryMuseum

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Antim Monastery

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Old Court Palace & Church Cocor

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University LibraryCarol I

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SchitulDarvari

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Central & Southern Bucharest

Unirea


Street register13 Septembrie, Calea B621 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5Academiei, Str. C5Alecsandri Vasile, Str. B4Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4Aman Theodor, Str. B5Amman, Str. C3Amzei, Intr. B4Apolodor, Str. B6Argentina, Str. B3Arghezi Tudor, Str. C5Atelierului, Str. A4Atena, Str. B3Balaban Emil, Str. C4Balcescu Nicolae, Bd. C5Baniei, Str. C6Banului, Str. B5Baratiei, Str. C6Batistei, Str. C5Berna, Str. B3Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5Berzei, Str. A4Biserica Amzei, Str. B4Biserica Enei, Str. C5Bitolia, Intr. B3Blanari, Str. C6Blanc Louis, Arh., Str. B3Blanduziei, Str. C5Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str. C4Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str. C3Bratianu I.c., Bd. C6Brazilia, Str. B3Brebu, Str. E3Brezoianu Ion, Str. B5Brutus M.i., Str. B6Bruxelles, Str. B3Budisteanu Constantin, G-ral, Str. B5Buiestrului, Str. C3Buzesti, Intr. B4Buzesti, Piata A4Buzesti, Str. B4Buzoiani Iani, Str. C2Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6Caderea Bastiliei, Intr. B4Caderea Bastiliei, Str. B4Caderon Jean Louis, Str. C5Calin Ion, Erou, Str. C4Cameliei, Str. A4Carada Eugeniu, Str. C6Caragea Ioan Voda, Str. C4Caragiale I.l., Str. C5Caragiale I.l.,intr. C5Carol I, Bd. D5Catargiu Lascar, Bd. B4Cavafii Vechi, Str. C6Cazzavillan Luigi, Str. B5Cernat Alexandru, G-ral, Str. A4Cioranu Mihai, Str. A6Clucerului, Str. A3Clunet, Dr., Str. A6Coanda Constantin, G-ral., Str. B4Coanda Henri, Str. B4Cobalcescu Grigore, Prof., Str. B5Coltei, Str. C5Constantin Daniel, Str. B4Constitutiei, Piata B6Conta Vasile, Str. C5Coposu Corneliu, Bd. C6Coposu Corneliu, Piata D6

Cornescu, Str. C3Cotiturii, Str. A5Covaci, Str. C6Crisana, Str. A5Crisului, Str. C6Cronicarilor, Str. C3Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd. A4Dacia, Bd. D4Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr. B4David Emmanuel, Str. C4Davila Carol, Dr., Str A6Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee C6Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt.av., Str B3Dianei, Str. C5Doamna Oltea, Str. C3Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str. B5Dorobanti, Calea B3Dorobanti, Piata B3Dragalina Ion, G-ral., Str. B6Drobeta, Str. C4Duca Gheorghe, Bd. A4Dumbrava Rosie, Str. C4Eforie, Str. C5Eftimiu Victor, Intr. B5Elie Radu, Str. B5Eminescu Mihai, Intr. C4Eminescu Mihai, Str. D4Enescu George, Piata B5Enescu George, Str. B5Episcopiei, Str. C5Eroii Sanitari, Bd. A5Eroilor, Bd. A5Eroilor, Piata A6Felix Iacob, Dr., Str. A4Filipescu Nicolae, Str. C5Finlanda, Str. B3Floreasca, Cale C3Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str. C5Franceza, Str. C6Frumoasa, Intr. B4Frumoasa, Str. B4Furtuna Stefan, Intr. A5Gabroveni, Str. C6Gara De Nord, Piata A4Gara De Nord, Str. A4Georgescu George, Str. B6Ghica Ion, Str. C5Golescu Dinicu, Bd. A4Golescu Nicolae, Str. C5Greceanu Paul, Str. C4Grigorescu Eremia, Str. C4Grivitei, Cale B4Gusti Dimitrie, Str. A5Gutenberg, Str. B5Haga, Str. B3Hagi Moscu Maria, Str. A3Halelor, Str. C6Haret Spiru, Str. B5Hasdeu Iulia, Intr. B4Hasdeu Iulia, Str. B4Horatiu, Str. B4Hristo Botev, Bd. C5Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4Icoanei, Str. C4Ilfov, Str. B6Iorga Nicolae, Intr. B4Iorga Nicolae, Str. B4Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str. A6Iulian Stefan, Str. A3Izvor, Str. A6Justitiei, Str. B6Kiseleff P.d., Bd. B3Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd B5

Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5Lacatusului, Str. C2Lacul Tei, Bd. D3Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4Lantului, Str. A6Lascar Vasile, Str. C5Lazar Gheorghe, Str. B5Lebedei, Str. A3Libertatii, Bd. B6Libertatii, Piata B7Lipova, Str. A5Lipscani, Str. C6Lisabona, Str. B3Lister, Dr., Str. A6Londra, Str. B3Lupu Dionisie, Str. C5Luterana, Str. B5Macedoniei, Str. A5Magheru Gheorghe, Bd C5Magiresti, Str. A4Maltopol, Str. A4Mamulari, Str. C6Manolescu Grigore, Str. A3Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5Masaryk Thomas, Str. C5Mendeleev D.i., Str. C4Mexic, Str. B3Michelet Julles, Str. C4Micle Veronica, Str. A4Mihai Voda, Str. B6Mihalache Ion, Bd. A3Mihnea Voda, Str. C6Mille Constantin, Str. B5Millo Matei, Str. B5Mincu Ion, Arh., Str. B3Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6Miron Costin, Str. A4Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str. B6Monetariei, Str. B3Mosilor, Cale D4Moxa Mihail, Str. B4Muresanu Andrei, Str. B3Musatescu Tudor, Piata B5Natiunile Unite, Bd. B6Natiunile Unite, Piata B6Neculce Ion, Str. A3Negri Costache, Str. A6Negruzzi Iacob, Str. A4Negulescu Stefan, Str. C3Occidentului, Str. B4Oslo, Str. B3Ostasilor, Str. B5Otetari,str. C5Paris, Str. B3Parvan Vasile, Str. B5Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str. A6Patriarhiei, Str. C6Petrescu Camil, Intr. C4Philippide Alexandru, Str. C4Piata Amzei, Str. B4Pitar Mos, Str. C5Poenaru Bordea, Str. B6Poiana Narciselor, Str. B5Politie, Str. B6Polizu Gheorghe, Str. A4Polona, Str. C4Poni Petru, Str. A4Popa Tatu, Str. B5Popescu-gopo Ion, Str. A6Povernei, Str. B4Praga, Str. B3Praporgescu David,

G-ral., Str. C5Pretorienilor, Str. A6Putul Cu Plopi, Str. B5Putul Lui Zamfir, Str. B3Quinet Edgar, Str. C5Quito, Piata B3Rabat, Str. B3Radu Voda, Str. C6Ramniceanu Naum, Str. C3Regina Elisabeta, Bd. C5Regina Maria, Bd. C6Revolutiei, Piata B5Rigas, Intr. B5Roma, Intr. B3Roma, Str. B3Romana, Piata B4Rosetti C.a., Piata C5Rosetti C.a., Str. C5Rosetti Maria, Str. C5Rossini Gioachino, Str. C3Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str. B5Sapientei, Str. B6Sarandy Frosa, Str. A3Scarlatescu, Str. A3Schitul Magureanu, Bd. B5Scoala Floreasca, Str. C3Scoalei, Str. C5Selari, Intr. C6Selari, Str. C6Sepcari, Str. C6Sevastopol, Intr. B4Sevastopol, Str. B4Sfanta Vineri, Str. C6Sfantul Constantin, Str. B5Sfantul Elefterie, Str. A6Sfintii Apostoli, Str. B6Sfintii Voievozi, Piata B4Sfintii Voievozi, Str. B4Slanic, Str. C5Slatineanu Ion, Str. C4Slavesti, Str. C4Smardan, Str. C6Sofia, Str. B3Stahi Constantin, Str. B5Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. A6Stavropoleos, Str. C6Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea D4Stirbei Voda, Intr. B5Stirbei Voda, Str. B5Tirana, Str. B3Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea A4Tokio, Str. B3Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr. B4Transilvaniei, Str. B5Tudor Stefan, Intr. C3Tunari, Str. C4Unirii, Bd. C6Unirii, Piata C6Universitatii, Piata C5Vacarescu Barbu, Str. C3Venezuela, Str. B3Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. C5Victoriei, Calea B4Victoriei, Piata B4Visarion I.c., Str. B4Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. A3Vlaicu Aurel, Str. C4Vulcanescu Mircea, Str. B4Washington, Str. B3Witting, Str. A4Xenopol Alexandru, Str. C4Zalomit Z. Ion. Str. B5Zola Emile, Str. B3

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