BriefIntroduction tothe CyprusCommandariawine history &tradition

Dr. Eng. Andreas EmmanouilPresident of the Cyprus OenophileAssociation, Honorary president ofthe Cyprus Sommelier AssociationWine expertTorino, 2016

1

Some geography� Cyprus is the largest Island in the eastern

Mediterranean sea� Lies 70 Km south of Turkey, around 100-140 Km

from Syria, Lebanon, Israel and Egypt and 270Km from Kastellorizo- Greece.

� The whole area of the Island is 9,250 sq. Kmand the population is less than one million

� On 1st May, 2004 Cyprus became a member-state of the EU…..

2

The map of Cyprus

3

4

Cyprus-The birth place ofAphrodite� According to ancient tradition, Aphrodite was

born from the waves on the site of the coast ofCyprus. In his Theogony (178-206), Hesiod providesthe following dramatic account of the event:

� "Chronos took the great long jagged sickle;eagerly he harvested his father's (Uranus) genitalsand threw them all off behind.... Thegenitals...were carried for a long time on thewaves. White foam surrounded the immortal flesh,and in it grew a girl...her name is Aphrodite among men and gods,because she grew up in the foam ”Αφρός” =foam

5

Wine History of Cyprus� The history of Cypriot wine can be told in

many ways: Maria Rosaria Belgiorno(Italian Archeologist) had chosen that ofthe pottery typology, because, goingback in the centuries

� She found that in Cyprus some of the mostancient ceramic shapes are linked to themaking, preservation and consumption ofwine.

6

The Wine History� During the excavations at Pamboula, near

the Erimi village,(by Porfirios Dikaios in 1932-35)a big number of egg shaped jars was found.Their chronology goes back to the 3000 BC

� Furthermore in April 2005, an analyticalprogram to examine the possible deposit thatremains at the bottom of jars was organized inCyprus, in order to prove that the Erimi jarshave been intentionally made to store wine.

7

8

Erimi excavations� The results demonstrated that 12 jars bottoms

contained a large amount of tartaric acid (acharacteristic acid of wine).

� It was evident that the Chalcolithic pointedjars from Erimi have been used to processwine.

� According to this discovery Cyprus isconsidered to be the “oldest wine producingcountry” in the Mediterranean

9

The wineskin� “We will start from the hypothesis that

wine was more ancient than the inventionof pottery and that the rst container usedto store and transport wine has been thewineskin” (Maria Rosaria Belgiorno- Notesof wine 3/6)

10

“Those who drank wine for thefirst time” (Ikarios and therobbers)

11

The viticulture of Cyprus� Viticulture and wine production of the island, were

the main occupations of Cypriots since ancienttimes

� Mountainous and semi-mountainous areas withmainly barren, rocky and steep terrain are utilized(really heroic). In addition the vineyard is anessential part of the landscape and contributes to itsconservation

� According to the Vine Registry, at the end of 2016,the whole area cultivated with vines was approx.8.700 ha. (approx. 600ha represent Commandaria)

12

Climatic and soil conditions� The islands position between Europe, Asia

and Africa, renders Cyprus an ideal placefor vines and wine production.

� Cyprus has a typical Mediterraneanclimate

� Long, hot and dry summers, from and ofMay to October and rainy mild winters,from November to March

� The water resources depends on rainingsince Cyprus has no rivers with continuousflow all the year round

14

The soils� The majority of the viticultural soils in

Cyprus rest on calcareous sedimentaryformations.

� The soils over these formations areextremely calcareous with a stronglyalkaline reaction (pH8-8,5)

� They are generally poor in nutrients andorganic matter and the vines give smallproduction of grapes

15

17

The wine regions of Cyprus

20

The Appellation of OriginRegionsThere are 5 A.O.C� Laona Akama� Vouni Panayia –Ampelitis� Krasohoria Lemesou

- Sub region Laona- Sub region Afamis

� Pitsilia and� Commandaria

22

Indigenous varietiesLocal noir- Mavro Xynisteri

26

Ancient wine varieties� The ancient Cypriot variety, under the name

Altesse, was imported at Roussette de Savoie,(France) by the crusader le comte deMareste.

� Also the well known variety Furmint (Tokaywine), was imported to Hungary fromCyprus.(?)

� Wine varieties were also imported, fromCyprus, to Spain (Malaga), Portugal and othercountries

35

36

37

The Commandaria Region

38

The Varieties�Mavro- Gives the

sweetness & thebody

�Xynisteri – gives thearoma & the finesse

42

Commandaria villages� Commandaria holds a protected designation of

origin within the European Union, the UnitedStates and Canada.(Commission Regulation no1429/2004)

� According to Cyprus legislation (by Departmentof Agriculture), it is only produced in a collectionof 14 neighbouring villages: (Cypriot legislationMarch 2,1990)

� Doros, Monagri, Ayios Yeorgios, Sylikou, Lania,Yerasa, Apsiou, Ayios Mamas, Kapilio, Louvaras,Kalo Chorio, Zoopiyi, Ayios Pavlos and AyiosKonstantinos.

� The hole area under vines is 560ha� The annual production of wine is approx. 9-

10.000hl.

43

The “Terroir”

� The altitude is between 500-900 m.� The annual pp. is between 450& 650mm/year� The dark volcanic soil, mix with Pakhna limestone or

chalk in the area makes it particularly well-suited togrowing the sweet Mavro and Xynisteri grapes thatare blended together to make the finished product.

� There is no regulation about the percentage of theblend.

44

45

46

47

48

49

51

The process� Commandaria has always been made

according to a traditional process whichis still followed today.

� The grapes are spread on “aplostra” fordrying under the sun, and then pressed.

� The runoff is collected for fermentation intanks –min some places earthen jars arestill used as was the practice forthousands years ago.

52

53

The «Aplostra»

54

Samuel Baker 1879� “…the grapes are collected and spread

upon the flat mud plastered roofs of thenative houses, and are exposed forseveral days, until they show symptoms ofshriveling in the skin, and the stalks havepartially dried: they are then pressed……’

� The same procedure till today.

“works and Days” by Hesiod� “When Orion and Sirius come into mid-

heaven, and rosy-finger Dawn seesArcturus, cut off the grape-clusters andbring them home. Show them to the sunten days and ten nights, then cover themover for five, and on the sixth day draw offinto vessels the gifts of joyful Dionysus”

� The production of Commandaria, today,is almost identical

57

58

The legislation� It is a “Quality Liqueur Wine” (QWpsr)� It is produce in a specify region (14

villages)� 2 indigenous varieties only:

- 100% Mavro or- 100% Xynisteri or any blend of the 2

� Vines density =2000-2750 plants/ha� Short pruning system

59

The legislation� The shape of the plants are traditional Goblet.� Irrigation is prohibited� The grape production is less than 17 hl/ha� The harvest starts at a minimum 212g/l

sugar(12,5 Baume) for Xynisteri and 258 forMavro(15,4 Baume)

� After sundry Xynisteri should have 390g/l sugarand Mavro 450g/l sugar

61

Technology� The wine must stay in oak barrels at least 2 years� Before ageing & bottling it is “controlled” by a

special committee (The group of experts)� The traditional ageing process is “Mana” (Mana, a

Greek word, means mother). Barrels, they neveremptied completely during ageing, they alwaysfilled it up with younger Commandaria

� Commandaria is produced both by the 4 largewineries (ETKO, KEO, LOEL &SODAP)and by smalllocal producers of the Commandaria appellationzone

Cyprus Wines� The Cypriots will cite with pride the first

chapter of “The Song of Songs” of Solomon inwitch

“My beloved is unto me as a bunch of Cyprusgrapes of the vineyards of En-gadi”

� If Solomon’s beloved was Mavro or Xynisteri,we do not know.

� For sure you have the opportunity, today, totaste the “Vin de Chypre”, the “Apostle ofWines” or the «King of wines» or the «wine forKings».....

62

63

100 years old Commandaria

Commandaria, 100 Years Old

� Tasting conducted by GiuseppeVaccarini, Best Sommelier of the World1978 and by Andreas Emmanouil,President of the Cyprus SommeliersAssociation November 12, 2006

64

Special Cuvee ofCommandaria� 50% Xynisteri and 50% Mavro variety� Achieved with the soleras method begun

in 1840 and of which the last topping upwas made in 1934, when the wine was 94years old.

� The real age of the first wine was 176years old

65

69

Epilogue� It is considered as a

“meditation” wine,to taste alone tobest pick up on allthe organolepticnuances and not inpairing togastronomicpreparations.

� To be served at atemperaturebetween 15 – 17 °Cin the appropriateglass for“Commandaria”.

Conclusions� Having in your restaurants, cava's, shops etc..

grand vin such as Pétrus, Romanée-Conti,Amarone or Brunello It is really great

� To have instead: Commandaria from Xynisteriand Mavro it is exotic, it is something else.

� Give yourself, your friends, your customers theopportunity to taste the fiery wine of Cyprus,to fill the power, the exotic aromas and thedelicacy of taste.

70

Thank you- enjoyCommandaria wineMany thanks to AREVTo the 14 villages of Commandaria in CyprusTo all of you for your presence here today

71