Boxster Conv Top Conversion Part i i Format

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How to convert Boxster Convertible roof to am OEM glas Window

Transcript of Boxster Conv Top Conversion Part i i Format

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    II. MECHANICAL PART OF INSTALLING NEW TRANSMISSIONS AND REAR SECTION ELECTRICALWIRING

    1. Make sure that you have followed the steps outlined in sub-paragraph #1 ofthe section directly preceding this one.

    2. At the electric motor, pull up on the upside-down, brass-colored U-clips, oneon each side of the motor. Once you have pulled off each clip, pull outboard oneach black drive cable until it comes out of the side of the motor.

    Upside-down U-Clip(Note the double Brown/Black wire in connector)

    3. Unclip the cables from the plastic clips that fasten them to the rearfirewall in the convertible top well.

    4. On the driver=s side, unscrew the two black plastic caps holding down the foamdrain tray at each rear corner of the convertible top well, using a very widebladed screw driver so as to not chew them up.

    Black Plastic Caps

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    You will not have to remove the two caps on the passenger=s side unless you wantto replace the foam drain tray on that side.

    Foam Drain Tray

    Note that the drain tray fits over the drain tube and over the steel ball andadjustment bolt for the Atension rope@ (black vinyl-covered cable dangling fromunder the rear main bow). Be sure to keep the drains clear of all debris andkeep the hole covered while you are working in that area. Also, be extremelycareful not to rip or tear the foam drain tray as any tear will cause water tomigrate into the passenger compartment. It is then just a matter of time untilthe water will inevitably find and fry your central alarm computer, which islocated at the lowest point in the cabin, under the driver=s seat!

    4. At each transmission, unbolt the 19mm bolt at the center of the V-lever.This will take some force as it is fastened with Loctite Blue at the factory.Before removing the V-lever, be sure to note its position as it is possible tore-install them in one of two positions: the correct position and upside down(180 degrees off).

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    V-Lever and 19mm Bolt

    There is a female keyway in the face of the center of the transmission and malecounterparts on the rear face of the V-levers, but it is still possible toinstall the V-levers upside down. Remove the V-lever and set aside, along withthe round black plastic protective cover that is directly over the transmission.At this point, you will have the rear steel ball of the removed V-lever showing,and the front pushrod with its plastic ball cup will be dangling from the frontsteel ball of the V-lever. Set the V-lever aside.

    5. Reach under the horizontal sheet metal lip running just below the clamshellgasket that is fastened to the rear quarter panel.Now, pull (Auntuck@) the vertical face of the foam drain tray closest to you downto expose the transmission.

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    Transmission Exposed, drain tray pulled down

    6. At this point, you can either carefully pull off the complete drain tray orjust push the outboard vertical face of the tray inboard so that you can accessthe three nuts that secure the transmission to the inner rear quarter panel.Note that the foam drain tray may be Astuck@ to the inner panels because of Agoo@or the passage of time, but it can be peeled off carefully.

    7. Now, unbolt the three 13mm nuts located at 9, 11 and 3 o=clock (three nutscircled in red in photo above). Note that the nut at the 11 o=clock position canbe difficult to see, as it is partially hidden by the sheet metal lip. Beforepulling the transmission off, follow the black cable from the rear of thetransmission towards the rear of the well. The cable is routed and held in placewith two lengths of black duct tape and you can pull it out from under the tapewithout too much difficulty.

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    Drive Cable Routing, Duct Tape Removed

    8. Pull the transmission off in a level and even fashion inboard.

    Mounting Studs

    9. The mounting studs for the B Version transmission are different than the onesholding the A Version transmission and they must be replaced with the correct

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    ones if you are converting to the newer transmissions. You can use the old nuts,as they are the same.

    To remove the three mounting studs, use a deep 17mm socket in the normal,counterclockwise direction.

    Transmission Removed

    10. Now, install and tighten the new version mounting studs, being careful toscrew in the threaded side of each stud that has a groove cut into it (sort ofself-tapping threads on that side).

    11. At this point, if you have decided that you want to install the newelectrical wiring for the complete conversion, we will proceed with the steps forthe first of two parts for the electrical work. Disconnect the negative terminalof the battery, making sure that you first have your radio code available, if oneis required for your model year.

    12. At the B-pillar microswitch, unscrew the one T15 Torx head screw and pop offthe switch housing from its mounting plastic stud below the screw.

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    B-Pillar MicroswitchCut the two wires leading from the microswitch about 5 inches from the switch andstrip 2 inch of the insulation from the ends of the two wires, one solid Blue andone solid Grey. Dispose of the switch. Follow the two wires down towards thebase of the roll bar to locate a small connector. That connector will have aBrown with Red stripe wire and a solid Brown wire leading to it. On the otherside of the connector will be the Grey wire and the Blue wire.

    The solid Brown becomes the solid Grey wire on the other side of the connector,and the Brown with Red stripe wire becomes the solid Blue wire. (If you have notbeen able to source a new small connector for the new Stehle transmission, thisis where you can Aborrow@ a connector). If so, just cut the wires on both sidesof the male and female parts of the connector and connect them the wires bysoldering, as described. You will then have the male connector to use, but youmust add a pin for the third wire lead).

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    B-Pillar Microswitch wires in transition

    Double microswitch connector receptacle

    13. Now go back to the part of the end of the Blue and the Grey wire that youcut and stripped. Take your new small connector, which should have a pigtailconsisting of three small wires leading from it and strip off 2 inch ofinsulation from each one: Terminal 1 of the connector has one Brown wire with

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    Black stripe leading from it, Terminal 2 has one Solid Brown, and Terminal 3 hasone Brown wire with Red Stripe.

    Pigtail Connector which will plug into front of transmission

    Connect, solder and wrap with heat shrink tubing the wires as follows:

    a. The Blue wire to the Brown with Red stripe wire on the connector;b. The Grey wire to the solid Brown wire on the connector;c. The remaining Brown with Black stripe wire gets connected to one end of

    the new 5 foot length of 20 gauge automotive wire that you have supplied.

    14. You will now have the connections to your new connector completed and youmust now route that wiring and the connector to the spot under the inner heavyfoam padding that will be under the new driver=s side transmission you will beinstalling. Here is a photo of a good final location for the connector so thatit can later be plugged into the front of that transmission.

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    Pigtail Connector LocationThe only remaining wiring to be done at this location involves the other end ofthe 20 gauge wire you have supplied. Take the 20 gauge wire and route it underand alongside the path where the driver=s side black drive cable will be running.

    New Wire Routing near CableContinue to route that wire around the rear of the convertible top well so thatit terminates near the electric motor.

    15. At this point, you can either remove the electric motor by unbolting itsthree 10mm mounting nuts (3, 6, and 9 o=clock) or just slip a zip tie around the

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    top of the metal bracket and over the small black lever to keep the leverpermanently pulled down and out of the way. If you remove the electric motor,you can do a more professional job of removing the lever and its microswitch. Ielected to unlatch the small spring that pushes the lever up and to then zip tiethe lever to keep it from flapping around.

    Lever Microswitch Zip-tied

    16. You will see a flat, medium-sized black plastic connector pressed into areceptacle under and to the driver=s side of the electric motor. That connectorwill have four sets of wires leading to it: thick Green, thick Black, thin Brown,and TWO thin Brown wires with Black stripe (which two lead together to oneterminal). Cut the two Brown with Black stripe wires about 5 inches from theconnector. Take the short ends of the wires and bend them over and tuck themback in towards the connector. These wires are now dead and just out of the way.

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    Brown-Black Wires near motor(Note cross-hatch pattern of new drive cable)

    Take the other ends of those two wires and strip the insulation back by 2 inch onboth. Twist the two together and twist them onto the end of the new 20 gaugewire you have routed to that point. Solder and cover with heat shrink tubing.

    Completed wiring near electric motor

    17. All of the wiring is now complete on this side, and only the wiring behindthe relay tray remains to be done. That will be dealt with after we complete there-installation of the transmissions.

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    18. Now go back to the site of the driver=s side transmission.19. Since you haveinstalled all three NEW type mounting studs, slip the new transmission onto theexposed threaded ends of the studs and press it home evenly, being careful toroute and press the black drive cable over and into the clips along the top edgeof the transmission.

    Routing of cable on B Version Transmission

    Also be careful to ensure that the new small connector that you routed frombehind the heavy foam insulation and through the hole for the forwardmost stud(at step #14) does not get pinched by the transmission. Reinstall and tightenthe three 13mm nuts onto their respective studs to 16 ft/lbs.

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    Driver (left) Side B-Version Transmission Installed

    Insert the new small connector into its receptacle in the front of thetransmission. Slip the black drive cable under the duct tape or apply new ducttape over the cable. Continue to route the drive cable around the rear wall ofthe convertible top well and press it onto the clip located on that wall.

    20. Re-insert the speedometer-type inner cable from the drive cable fully intothe side of the electric motor on the driver=s side, and then press the upside-down U-clip onto the edge of the motor bracket to lock in the cable.

    21. Re-install the foam drain tray and screw the two large black plastic capsonto their studs near the rear of the convertible top well, on the driver=s side.

    22. Re-install the flat black circular protective cover and the V-lever, beingcareful not to install the V-lever upside down. Coat the ends of the threads onthe 19mm bolt with Loctite Blue, install and tighten the bolt to 59 ft/lbs.

    23. Repeat the above steps that are relevant to the removal and installation ofthe transmission to complete the passenger side work. Note again that there isno wiring involved on the passenger side.

    24. Connect the four pushrods (two on each side) by pressing each of the ballcups onto their respective steel balls.

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    White Plastic Ball Cup Pressed On

    Black AHydraulic@ Pushrod Pressed on

    (Continue to next section in Part III, to complete electrical modification)