Bon-Ton Qa Inspection Manual

7/30/2019 Bon-Ton Qa Inspection Manual

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QUALITYINSPECTIONS

Requirements & Procedures

2011/2012


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Bon-Ton Requirements and Procedures Bon-Ton Incorporated Quality Assurance

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. Policy Statement Pg.3

2. Introduction Pg. 4

3. Packaging Standard Pg. 4

4. General Inspection Procedure Pg. 5

5. Standard Inspection Package SIP Pg. 6

6. Scheduling Pg. 6

7. Completion of Inspection Pg. 6

8. Inspection Disposition Pg. 7

9. Inspection Charge and invoice Pg. 7

10. Best Practices Production Pg. 8-9

11. Garment Inspection Procedure Pg. 10-19

12. Appendix ACritical Measurements Pg. 20-21


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POLICY STATEMENT

A. This program is based on the mandate that merchandise purchased byThe Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. (Bon-Ton) must be inspected to meet productspecifications, all applicable laws and regulatory requirements.

B. UL-STR has been designated to conduct Bon-Ton quality inspections for

all required third party product inspections (at Bon-Tons discretion)prior to shipment. The cost of these inspections are the responsibilityof the vendor and/or factory.

C.Vendor or factory inspections are not a substitution for this requirement.

D. The third party inspection does not limit Bon-Tons rights or diminish orremove vendor or manufacturers' responsibility and obligations underthe Purchase Order Terms and Conditions.


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INTRODUCTION

The Bon-Ton organization is totally committed to providing our customerswith only the highest quality merchandise available to meet the lifestylerequirements of the middle and upper income families in today'scompetitive market place.

This program is designed to ensure a uniform understanding andimplementation of Bon-Ton inspection requirements and procedures.

Although we have tried to clearly define our requirements, if you havespecific questions, please direct them to both parties below:

Laura WhelanClient Services ManagerUL-STR/ Bon-Ton310 West Wisconsin Ave.10th floor westMilwaukee, WI 53203Phone: 414-347-1152 ext 3694Fax: 414-347-5278

E-mail: [email protected]

1. PACKAGING STANDARD


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2.GENERAL INSPECTION PROCEDURES

Initial Contact:For third party inspection programs the initial request for an inspectionmust be directed by Bon-Ton Product Development staff to the QADepartment by submitting a Domestic Vendor Notification Form(DVNFsee page 35).

The notification should provide the following information:

Who: (vendor, factory)What: (description of product, style, and etc., along with the

product specifications or inspection criteria and approvedreference sample)

Where: (inspection location, factory or warehouse name, address,contact name, phone number, etc.)

When: (when inspection required, scheduled ship date)How many: (total quantity of product)

The QA Department will initiate a final inspection by forwarding the DVNFto the designated third party inspection service when received fromProduct Development.

Please keep in mind that UL-STR will need 10 calendar days advancenotice to arrange a final inspection. Waiting until the week of the vendor

required ship date is too late.

Note 1: Any consideration for waiving the third party inspectionrequirements must be approved by the Bon-Ton Stores Inc QA


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3. Standard Inspection Package (SIP)

To ensure the best performance of the inspection and obtain the mostreliable result, a Standard Inspection Package (SIP) Must be supplied bythe factory. The SIP includes, but is not limited to the following items:

2 Preproduction samples or TOP samples An 8 x 8 inch fabric swatch for each approved color/print Bon-Ton approved wash shades should be provided (i.e. denim

Pigment dye, etc.) Size specifications Sketches, photos, or drawing of the products. Approved actual accessories, hang tags and labels Assortment sheet indicating style number, quantity, delivery and color

assortment. Packing instructions Any other information the factory deems important to

the inspection

All items contained in the SIP must be duplicates of what hasbeen approved by Bon-Ton.

4. Scheduling

The vendor is responsible to contact UL-STR a minimum of 10 calendar days


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6. INSPECTION DISPOSITIONS

If the result of the inspection passes the AQL adopted by the Bon-Ton QADepartment, The final typed report and disposition will be emailed within 48

hours to the vendor so that the shipment can be released.

If there is a failing or doubtful result, the shipment will be rejected. UL-STR willnotify the Bon-Ton QA Department immediately. A disposition will becommunicated to the vendor and internally.

The Bon-Ton QA Department will review the inspection report findings anddetermine the severity of deficiencies found with the appropriate Bon-Tonmerchandising staff. If deficiencies found are considered to be commercially

acceptable, the QA Department will release the final report with comments andacceptability.

In cases where inspection results are deemed to be a concern and would resultin unacceptable quality to be shipped to our stores, the Bon-Ton QA Departmentwill meet with the appropriate merchandising staff to determine final dispositionand communicate action steps to the factory/vendor accordingly.

7. INSPECTION CHARGE AND INVOICING

Bon Ton has negotiated favorable rates with UL STR on behalf of our vendors


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Best Practices Production / Inspection Procedures

STORAGE Fabric rolls need to be tagged with relevant information /

identification. Dye lots need to be separated. All fabrics must be above ground level to avoid contamination. Proper shelving racks are critical to maintaining good inventory

control. Trims must also be properly separated and stored.

FABRIC INSPECTION Fabric rolls need to be tagged with relevant information /

identification. The 4-point grading system should be employed by all mills and

factories. The vendor must ensure consistent application acrosstheir entire factory base.

Fabric inspectors within the factory require proper training. Fabric inspectors must cut swatches from the beginning of the roll

and match the color shade to the middle and end of the roll. Fabric inspectors must build their own library of defects


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The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc.

GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES

1.0 PURPOSE

1.1 To describe the standard procedures for garment inspections for Bon-Ton .

2.0 APPLICATION

2.1 Applies to all garment inspections conducted for Bon-Ton .

3.0 PRE-INSPECTION

3.1 Bon-Ton will provide to UL-STR, authorization to conduct specific inspections by sending to UL-STReither (1) a listing of production orders (POs)/styles/SKUs to inspect, (2) a specific inspectionrequest form, or (3) other appropriate written authorization.

3.1.1 Bon-Ton will indicate, on the garment inspection request form, changes to the inspection

procedure, which apply to a particular inspection assignment. This will be done by writingEXCEPTION in the comments section of the inspection request form, and identifying thespecific change and/or instruction.

3.1.2 The inspection request will specify the types of inspections (in-line, final) to be conductedfor a particular production order or shipment.

3.2 Bon-Ton will provide to UL-STR, a defect criteria list to be used by the inspector during theinspection.

3.3 Bon-Ton will provide to UL-STR, measurement specifications with points of measurement,tolerances, a how to measure guide and any technical information associated with the construction,trims, labeling, ticketing, packing, etc. of the item/s being inspected.


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The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc.GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES

5.0 SCHEDULING

5.1 Scheduling of in-line and final inspections must be consistent with logic and reasonable productioncapabilities. Thus, a final inspection must not be scheduled nor conducted the day following thein-line inspection unless the total production quantity is so small it is reasonable that an in-lineinspection can be conducted one day and then a full final inspection of completed product can beconducted the next day.

5.2 The factory will supply to the UL-STR Regional Coordination Center, the production status includingPO, style, and quantities available. The factory will schedule the in-line and final inspection datesbased on this information. Note, UL-STR will coordinate the inspection scheduling with the factory,but the authorization/request to conduct the inspection shall come from Bon-Ton.

5.3 The UL-STR Regional Coordination Center and factory agree on an inspection date.

5.4 UL-STR Regional Coordination Center assigns the inspection to an UL-STR inspector who conducts

the inspection according to the requirements set by Bon-Ton and communicated to UL-STR.

5.4 UL-STR will not accept instructions nor modifications to the Bon-Ton /UL-STR procedures withoutwritten authorization from the Bon-Ton .

6.0 IN-LINE INSPECTION ( Only when required by BON-TON)

6.1 The following in-line inspection procedures are to be used in conjunction with the final inspection

procedures outlined in Section 7.0 below when specifically requested by Bon-Ton.

6.2 The purpose of an in-line inspection is to help a new factory, the vendor and the Bon-Ton toidentify potential problems early enough in the manufacturing process that they can be fixed andthe q alit of the p od ct imp o ed


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7.2 UL-STR will inspect each Bon-Ton style individually and treat each as an individual lot for randomstatistical sampling purposes. However, each style (lot) can include various colors and size rangesand also multiple shipping destinations. These will be combined within one report.

7.3 The inspections are to be conducted in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4-2008, Normal Inspection,General Level II. The AQL is 0 for Critical defects, 2.5 for Major defectsincluding criticalmeasurement points that are out of tolerance, and 4.0 for Minor defectsincluding non-criticalmeasurement points that are out of tolerance. This requirement may only be changed, in writing,from Bon-Ton to UL-STR, and the written instruction must specify the orders where thechange will be applied.

Lot or Batch Size Sample Size2.5

Major 2.5AC / RE

Sample Size4.0

Minor 4.0AC / RE

26 to 50 5 0 / 1 13 1 / 251 to 90 20 1 / 2 13 1 / 2

91 to 150 20 1 / 2 20 2 / 3151 to 280 32 2 / 3 32 3 / 4281 to 500 50 3 / 4 50 5 / 6501 to 1200 80 5 / 6 80 7 / 81201 to 3200 125 7 / 8 125 10 / 113201 to 10,000 200 10 / 11 200 14 / 1510,001 to 35,000 315 14 / 15 315 21 / 2235,001 to 150,000 500 21 / 22 315 21 / 22150,001 to 500,000 500 21/ 22 315 21 / 22500,001 and over 500 21 / 22 315 21 / 22

7.3.1 Examples for sampling:


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7.3.1.3 More complex garments such as coats, dresses, tailored garments, etc. willrequire additional inspection time. Therefore, the number of man daysrequired to complete a 200 piece sampling is be subject to increase to morethan one man day.

7.3.1.4 Vendors / Factorys must allow adequate timing when scheduling inspectionsto allow for proper sampling and inspecting to be performed.

7.3.2 Critical Defect: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety hazard to thecustomer or end user. Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable quantity of criticaldefects found within a shipment. A critical defect will automatically render the inspectionas rejected.

7.3.3 Major Defect: Anything that adversely affects the appearance, performance including fit orcustomer satisfaction, to a degree that would provide a discerning customer withjustification of non-purchase, a return, or complaint.

7.3.3 Minor Defect: Any variation from the standard that is not sufficient in degree to beclassified as major, and that would not provide a discerning customer with justification fornon-purchase, a return, or complaint.

7.4 The inspector shall observe the inspection location. No inspection shall take place withoutadequate lighting. If the inspector feels the lighting is not sufficient, first request betteraccommodations. If none are available, the inspection shall proceed as scheduled, however, a

comment shall be written on page one of the report stating that the inspection was conductedunder less than optimum lighting. If the lighting is very bad so that it prohibits vision, then thereport shall be marked as not ready.

7 5 Befo e sta ting the final inspection the UL STR inspecto m st ecei e a f ll and complete


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7.6 Unless arriving much earlier than scheduled, an inspector should never wait more than 2 hours forany inspection. If after waiting 2 hours, if the goods are not ready for inspection, the inspectionmust be rendered Not Ready. The factory will be required to reschedule the inspection.

7.7 Garments must be inspected for workmanship and construction defects.

7.7.1 Inspectors must thoroughly check seams for stitching defects including pocket pouches,plackets should be even side to side, inseam lengths must be even at snap areas.Garments must fully be turned inside out and seams and stitching must be checkedthoroughly for broken/missed stitches, sloppy stitching, notched fabric under stitching andany other fabric or stitching defects that could be found on the outside of a garment.

7.7.2 Inspector shall pull on buttons, snaps, etc. to make certain they are securely attached (seecritical defects).

7.7.3 Buttons, snaps, zippers, Velcro, etc. must be checked by the inspector to verify theywork/function properly.

7.7.3.1 Inspectors must pay careful attention to zipper function and determine if thezipper "stop" device functions correctly. This process must be conducted byboth of the following 2 methods. 1) With the zipper "teeth" not connectedand with the two front panels of the garment in the open/separated/notconnected position - pull the zipper head to the upper most position and then

to the lower most position and determine if the zipper head is stopped at boththe top and bottom positions 2) With the zipper teeth connected/engaged andwith the teeth of the 2 panels zipped together, pull the zipper head to theupper most position and to the lower most position. If the zipper headbecomes sepa ated/detached/comes off this is conside ed a small pa t and is


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7.7.7 Labeling information should be checked against the information provided by Bon-Ton. If alabel is missing, wording is misspelled or wording is not readable, this is considered amajor defect. Labeling shall be checked on all measured garments.

7.7.8 When no standard is provided, any shading variation visible to the inspector, within agarment or garment to garment, is not acceptable. If any shading is observed, theinspection must be placed on hold and the quantity and range of shades must be reportedin the comments section of the report.

7.7.8.1 When shading is not evident, the inspector must comment on the report.For example: No shade variation within a garment or garment to garment.

7.7.9 Garments taken from the first carton must be compared to the next carton, etc. to insurethat color, appearance, overall size, hand/feel, etc. are the same.

7.8 50% RULE: If an inspection passes, but one defect type is equal to 50% or more of theallowable defects, the inspection must be placed on hold pending the Bon-Ton s decision. State inthe comments section on the report that the reason for the inspection being placed on hold is dueto the 50% defect rule and include a description of the defect type found. Multiple defects mustalso be considered when determining if the 50% rule applies (in the example below, some of the11 holes may have been part of multiple defects).Example:

AQL = AC: 21 RE: 22

Inspection results: 18 major defects11 of the 18 defects are holes (11 is greater than 50% ofthe allowable defects 21)

Action: Inspection is placed on hold because 11 defects are greater than 50% of the


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7.10.1 Whenever defect samples are sent to BON-TON after an inspection, a copy of thehandwritten, draft report must be included with the shipped sample/s. In the event thedraft report is not written in English, it must still be included, but in addition, must befaxed, for translation, to the UL-STR Regional Coordination Center responsible for thatinspection. Either an (English) copy of the draft report or the final report must, be faxed ore-mailed to the Bon-Ton within one business day of the inspection .

The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. Fax#: 414-347-5278The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. E-mail: [email protected]

7.10.2 Samples sent to BON-TON must be packaged and shipped by the UL-STR inspector. If it isabsolutely necessary to ship the package from the factory, the packages must be sealedwith UL-STR tape by the inspector. If UL-STR tape is not available, the inspector mustclose the box, write their signature over all/every seam on the box, or apply their UL-STRinspector stamp (chop mark), and cover the signature (or stamp/chop mark) with cleartape.

8.0 MEASUREMENTS

8.1 Bon-Ton will supply measurement specifications to UL-STR for each inspection assignment. A Bon-Ton approved measurement guide (how to measure), for each assignment, must also be providedto UL-STR for forwarding to the UL-STR Regional Coordination Center and the inspector.

8.2 Measurements are to be checked on 10% of the sample size but a minimum of 3 garments persize.

8.3 All measured garments must also be inspected for quality defects.

8.3.1 If one garment has a quality defect and a measurement defect, this is to be listed on theepo t as a m ltiple defect Indicate on the meas ement cha t hich meas ed ga ment


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9.0 DEFECT LABELING

9.1 ALL DEFECTS ON A GARMENT MUST BE TAGGED. IF THERE IS MORE THAN ONE DEFECT ON ASINGLE GARMENT, THIS IS CONSIDERED A MULTIPLE DEFECT AND SHOULD BE LISTED AS AMULTIPLE DEFECT ON THE REPORT. The garment is only counted as defective once.

9.2 Inspector must be consistent when using terms to describe defects.

9.3 Defects must be marked with colored tape.

9.4 Each defective garment must have an orange, self-adhesive sticker attached with defect(s) circledon the tag. The sticker must be on the garment, not on a plastic bag. The garment informationonly has to be completed on the garments sent to the Bon-Ton . The garments remainingfactory only need the report tracking number and date, in addition to the defects circled on theorange tag. The defects marked with colored tape and major or minor circled on the garments(this can be accomplished by attaching a defect sticker to every defective garment as it isinspected, circling the defect and circle major or minor on the sticker).

9.5 Defect Identification The inspector must make certain that all information on the defect sticker orcard sent with a defect sample is labeled identically to the information on the report.

10.0 REPORTING

10.1 Upon completion of the inspection, the report and inspection findings must be reviewed with ana tho i ed facto ep esentati e E e defect m st be sho n to the facto ep esentati e


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11.0 DEFECT CLASSIFICATION

11.1 Major and minor garment and fabric defects are listed and classified in Appendix B. The Bon-Tonmust advise UL-STR of any additions or modifications to Appendix B.

11.2 Inspections conducted on childrens garments must take into account, safety concerns. Therefore,any pieces including buttons, snaps or other attachments that are loose or not securely attachedand can fit into the CPSC small part cylinder will be considered critical defects. NOTE: This doesnot ensure compliance to federal regulations.

12.0 RE-INSPECTIONS

12.1 Re-inspections are to be scheduled and conducted only when the shipment has been 100% sortedand reworked and 100% packed and sealed for shipment. A complete inventory list of cartonnumbers shall be provided in advance of the re-inspection.

12.2 No re-inspection may be scheduled on the same day as the first inspection unless specificallyrequested by the Bon-Ton . The factory or vendor cannot request a re-inspection.

12.2.1 Only if a program is vendor driven may a re-inspection be scheduled at the request of thevendor.

13.0 CANCELLED OR TERMINATED INSPECTIONS

13.1 The UL-STR Regional Coordination Center must be notified a minimum of one business day to thescheduled inspection to cancel or postpone an appointment. Additional advance notice may benecessa if the inspecto is eq i ed to t a el to the inspection location


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14.0 TESTING

14.1 If applicable, upon receipt of a testing request form from Bon-Ton, the UL-STR RegionalCoordinator will determine the required number of samples needed, per size, color, and style. TheUL-STR Regional Coordinator will obtain this information from the appropriate UL-STR laboratory

that will conduct the testing. The UL-STR Regional Coordinator will instruct the inspector torandomly select the required samples and arrange for the samples to be shipped to the appropriateUL-STR laboratory. The UL-STR Regional Coordinator will forward the appropriate UL-STR testingrequest form to the UL-STR laboratory that will perform the testing. Note: UL-STR will name andassign a technical services representative who will review the testing reports.

15.0 INVOICING

15.1 UL-STR will invoice the vendor for each in-line and each final inspection at the agreed to man-day

rate plus appropriate out of pocket expenses, such as transportation, communication, shipping,hotel and meals when overnight stays are required; and other specifically identified expensesrequired to conduct, document, and complete the inspection and report.

15.2 Re-inspections will be conducted upon receipt of confirmation from Bon-Ton and will, likewise, beinvoiced to the vendor at the agreed to man-day rate plus out of pocket expenses.


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APPENDIX A

CRITICAL MEASUREMENTS

Tops

Neck Stretched: A minimum neck stretch measurement must be provided by theBon-Ton for garments that require pulling over the head.

Neck Width

Collar band button to button hole

Across Shoulder

Chest / Bust from 1 below armhole (unless otherwise specified)

Sweep

Body Length from HPS (unless otherwise specified)

Sleeve Length

Sleeve Opening

Arm Hole/ Arm Hole Depth


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Inseams: Check for difference in length when the inseam is closed by snaps orbuttons. If top and bottom of snaps are not perfectly aligned, someunevenness in length from front inseam panels to the back. The tolerancemust be provided by the Bon-Ton .

Dresses

Neck Stretched: A minimum neck stretch measurement must be provided by theBon-Ton for garments that require pulling over thehead

Neck Width

Across Shoulder

Chest/Bust from 1 below armhole (unless otherwise specified)

Sweep

Body Length from HPS

Hip 8 down from waist (unless otherwise specified)

Sleeve Length

Arm Hole/ Arm Hole Depth


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APPENDIX B

CLASSIFICATION OF DEFECTS

Defect DefinitionsDefects are classified into three main categories: -

(1) Critical Defects(2) Major Defects(3) Minor DefectsThe classified defects can then be divided into three sub-categories: -(a) Material Defects(b) Production Defects(c) Packaging DefectsFor a clearer understanding of how to classify defects, the following definitions are taken from thethe ANSIZ.1.4- 2008

Critical DefectA critical defect is a defect that judgment and experience indicate is likely to result in hazardousor unsafe conditions for individuals using, maintaining or depending upon the product.To simplify, a critical defect usually contravenes legal requirements, particularly safety legislation.It is important to understand that the detection of just one critical defect will fail theshipment.

Major Defect

A major defect is a defect, other than critical, that is likely to result in failure or to reducematerially the usability of the unit of product for its intended purpose. In simple terms, a major defect is likely toresult in product failure, either initially or within a short period of time. A major defect will result in the end-user rejecting and returning the product


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Defect Classification Lists Woven Fabric Defects MAJOR MINOR

Burl Mark- A distortion caused by removing a thick slub or wasteyarn with a burling tool. The defect appears as an open space in the fabric. X

End out - A missing warp yarn caused by yarn breaking and loom continuingto run. The defect appears as a thin line. X

Fly - Small fibers spun into the yarn during spinning. X X

Hole - Caused by broken yarns in either warp or weft direction. X

Jerk-In - An extra piece of filling yarn jerked part way into the fabricby the shuttle. The defect appears at the selvage. X X

Knots - Where two ends of yarn have been tied together. X X

Reed Mark / - Resulting from a bent reed wire which causes theOpen Reed warp ends to be held apart and expose the filling yarn.The defect appears as a fine lined thin place in the warp direction. X

Slub - A short, thick place in the yarn or an extra piece of yarn woveninto the fabric. X X

Soiled Filling - Filling or warp yarns soiled by dirt or grease. X

Thin Place - An area across the fabric width with less picks or lighter Xfilling than that normal to the rest of the fabric.


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MAJOR MINOR

Press-off- Where fabric fails to knit and either falls off the machineor the design is completely disrupted or destroyed. Bad press-offsusually start a new roll of fabric. X

Run - Unformed stitches caused by a broken needle. The defectappears as a vertical line of unformed stitches. X

Slub - Caused by a thick place in the yarn or by lint getting onto theyarn feeds. X

Defect Classification Lists Fabric Finishing Defects

Bowing - Usually caused by distortion of fabric during finishing. The wovenfilling yarns, or course rows in knit fabrics, lie in an arc across the fabric width.

on stripes, plaids or patterns. X

Bowing - Usually caused by distortion of fabric during finishing. The wovenfilling yarns, or course rows in knit fabrics, lie in an arc across the fabric width.on solid colors and with an agreed standard. X

Color Out - Caused by color running low in the reservoir on the printing machine.The defect appears as blank patches in the print pattern. X

Color Smear - Caused by the color being smeared during printing. The defectappears as blurred edges and distortion to pattern. X X

Crease Mark- Caused by fabric folds during finishing process. The defectli hi h t b d t X


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Defect Classification Lists Production Defects MAJOR MINOR

Cutting Defects

Grain Line - a) Component parts cut off-grain or on wrong grain.b) Component parts cut on inverted or opposite grain on pile, nap,one way design fabrics. Xc) Any component not cut according to specified stripe or patternmatching requirements. X

Size - Component parts not cut to correct pattern size.depending on degree of variancefrom pattern and on tolerance allowed. X

Drill Holes - Drill holes, used to locate position of pockets, end of dart etc.,which will not close or are exposed after setting pocket etc. X

Notches - Notches cut too deep to be contained within the seamallowance and are exposed as a hole after seaming. X

Fusing Defects

De-Lamination - Also bubbling, both caused by incorrect fusing cycle,temperature or use of incompatible fusible. Must also ensure de-laminationdoes not occur after following care instructions. X

Strike Through/ Strike BackCaused by use of either incompatiblefusible or incorrectfusing cycle. X

Fabric Discoloration- Caused by incorrect fusing. X

Construction Defects


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MAJOR MINOR

Seam and Stitch Defects

Seam Type - Substitution of seam-type not previously approved. X

Stitch Type - Substitution of stitch-type not previously approved. X

Stitch Tension - Loose stitch tension or poorly balanced stitchresulting in seam grin. X

Tight stitch tension - Resulting in seam pucker. X

SPI - Stitches per inch more or less than specified stitches.+/- 2 stitches per inch. Per Inch) X

SPI - Stitches per inch more or less than specified stitches.+/- 1 stitch per inch. X

Thread Type / Size - Use of monofilament thread or non-specifiedthread type X

Thread Color - a) Use of non-specified thread color or mis-matchedthread color. Xb) Looper or bobbin thread color not matching top stitching colorUNLESS SPECIFIED. X

Sewing Defects

Broken Stitch - a) Unacceptable in a functional or decorative seam. Xb) A single broken stitch in a non-functional seam. (e.g. merrowed edgeon an open-pressed seam) X

Ski Stit h ) A i l ki d tit h i tit h t hi h ill l


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MAJOR MINOR

Back Stitching - a) Thread break or ends of stitching not securely

back stitched (except when caught into other seams). Xb) Over stitch or back stitch not sewn stitch on stitch and out by morethan 1/16. X

Run-OffRun-offs on edge stitching or top stitching. ConspicuousStitching stitching over-run onto other parts of X

Over-Run -garment which is not intended. over 2 stitches X

Over-Run - garment which is not intended up to 2 stitches X

Top Stitching - Top stitching not straight or not parallel. X X

Raw Edges - Unfinished hems or seams with raw edges which will fray.Felled seams where fabric is not folded into seam and caught into stitching. X

Seam Pucker - Any seam distorted by twisting, roping, pleating, puckering orstretching which affects the appearance. X

Uneven Seam - Seam lengths uneven in excess of . X

Unrelated Seam - Any part of garment caught into an unrelated seam oroperation. X

Waste - Any waste sewn into the outside of the garment or visible whenthe garment is worn. X

Stay Stitching - Any stay stitching not completely concealed orremoved e.g. at sleeve cap. X

N dl D A dl h h l hi h ld d l


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MAJOR MINOR

Darts

Size - a) Not identical in size, length or angleless than 1/8 difference. XStitching - b) Stitching line crooked and not tapered correctly causingend of dart to nipple / dimple. X

PocketsReinforcement - a) Corners not reinforced by either back stitching or bar tacks. XSize / Shape - b) Paired pockets not uniform in size and shape. Over 1/4 difference. XLocation - c) Misaligned, hi / lo pocket placement. Over 1/4 difference. XDrill Holes - d) Drill holes not covered by pocket placement. X

PocketsSize / Shape - a) Paired pockets not uniform in size and shape.More than 1/4 difference. XLocation - b) Misaligned, hi / lo pocket placement.less than 1/4 difference X

Pocket FlapsSize / Shape - a) Paired pocket flaps not uniform in size and shape.over 1/4 difference XOpening - b) Pocket and opening not fully covered by pocket flap.Alignment - c) Misaligned / Crooked pocket flap placement. more than1/8 out of line. XLocation - d) Conspicuously not centered over pocket. XFabric - e) Incorrect distribution of fabric between top and under flap causingunder flap to roll out; excess fullness on top flap. X

Pocket FlapsSize / Shape - a) Paired pocket flaps not uniform in size and shape.less than 1/4 difference. XAlignment - b) Misaligned / Crooked pocket flap placement.l th 1/8 t f li X


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MAJOR MINORPlacketsTop Edges - a) Top placket lower than bottom placket at neckline /

top edge. less than 1/4. XBottom Edges - b) Bottom placket longer than top placket at hemline / lower edge.less than 1/4. XAlignment - c) Top and bottom placket misaligned at front edge.less than 1/8. X

SleevesSetting - a) Set into wrong / opposite armholes. XBalance - b) Incorrect setting into armhole causing sleeve to be out of balanceand pitched too far forward / backward. Sleeve pitch is essential in the fittingof jackets. X XLength - c) Sleeve lengths varying by more than 3/8. XAlignment - d) Misalignment of sleeve / underarm seam (cross-over / tie-in)in excess of 3/8. X

Sleeve Cuff - Plain HemSize - a) Left and right cuff widths must measure the same.over 1/8 difference. X

Sleeve Cuff - Plain HemSize - a) Left and right cuff widths must measure the same.less than 1/8 difference X

Shirt CuffSize - b) Cuffs not uniform in size and shape. over 1/8 difference. XFabric - c) Incorrect distribution of fabric between top and under-cuff X

causing under cuff to roll out, excess fullness in top cuff. XAttachment - d) Seam closure causing step at cuff in excess of 1/8. X

Shirt CuffSi b) C ff t if i i d h l th 1/8 diff X


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MAJOR MINOR

Belt Loops

Location - a) Missing or misplaced. XAngle - b) Slanted / Set at an angle crooked. more than XAttachment - c) Not securely attached. XWidth - d) Width not as specified. more than 1/8 XLength - e) Length / Opening not as specified. more than 1/4. XSeam - f) Open seam in belt loop construction. XTrimming - g) Turnings of loop not fully trimmed. X

Belt LoopsAngle - b) Slanted / Set at an angle / crooked. less than 1/4. XWidth - d) Width not as specified. less than 1/8. XLength - e) Length / Opening not as specified. less than 1/4. X

PantsAlignment - a) Misalignment of crotch seams in excess of 1/4. XSize - b) Left and right leg hem widths must measure the same.For Plain Hemmed Leg Ends: over 1/4 difference. For Ribbed Cuffs:over 1/8 difference XLength - c) Leg lengths varying more than 3/8. XSeams - d) Twisted legs in excess of 1/2 outseam off from inseam. X

PantsSize - a) Left and right leg hem widths must measure the same. For PlainHemmed Leg Ends: less than 1/4 difference. For Ribbed Cuffs: less than1/8difference X

LiningExposed - a) Lining showing below shell. XToo Short - b) Lining too short. XToo Small - c) Lining too tight. XAtt h t d) Mi i l tt hi li i t h ll X


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MAJOR MINORFastening / Trim Defects

Button or Buttonhole - a) Button style / size / quality not as approved. Xb) Broken / Defective button. Xc) Missing / Extra button / button hole Xd) Button not securely sewn. Xe) Buttonhole stitches cut or unraveling. Xf) Buttonhole stitch bite too narrow, causing buttonhole to separate from fabric. Xg) Incomplete buttonhole either uncut or stitches notcomplete. Xh) Buttonhole too big / too small for button. Xi) Button / Buttonhole alignment misplaced causing noticeable bulge. Xj) Button / Buttonhole alignment misplaced causing uneven closure at top/neckline or bottom / hemline. Xk) Garment fastening the wrong way. Xl) Buttonhole not cut cleanly leaving ragged edges, long fabricthreads and fabric thread loops. Xm) Fabric snags and damage caused by blunt knife / needle inbuttonhole machine. Xn) Button / Buttonhole off center in excess of 1/8. Xo) Buttonhole gimp missing when specified. X

Zipper - a) Color, length, size or quality not as approved. Xb) Zipper tape exposed when fly is closed. Xc) Fly fastening the wrong way. Xd) Right and left zipper tape not properly aligned resulting inhi / low fastening or distorted appearance. Xe) Zipper tape stitched too loose or too tight causing noticeable bulge when closed. Xf) Missing / Insecure top or bottom stop. X

g) Faulty slider or teeth / coil. Xh) Impaired zipper operation through any part of its length. X

Snap Fasteners / Popper Fasteners / Stud Fasteners - a) Style / Size /Q lit t d X


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MAJOR MINOR

Ornamental (e.g. Frog, Bow, Loop etc.)Fastenings - a) Color, size, style, quality not as specified / approved. Xb) Missing or not securely attached. Xc) Components misplaced, incorrectly aligned, conspicuously not uniform in position. X

Drawcord - a) Style, size, color, quality not as specified or approved. Xb) Not attached properly or not inserted correctly. Xc) Incorrect finished length. Xd) Ends of drawcord not treated / finished correctly to prevent pullingback into tunnel. Xe) Eyelet missing, misplaced, poorly finished. Xf) Drawcord applied so that it will not run / pull freely. X

Pressing - a) Burn / scorch, shine / glaze. Xb) Pressing omitted or poorly pressed. Garment distorted byimproper pressing. Xc) Seams not pressed open, not fully pressed. Xd) Lapels, collars, cuffs, hems not pressed. Xe) Pants pressed offseam from crotch to hem. if more than Xe) Pants pressed offseam from crotch to hem. if less than 1/2. Xf) Pressed-in creases when not required. Xg) Permanent crease line not extending full length. X

Measurement Defects

Measurements - Any critical measurement not within specified tolerance. X

MeasurementsAny non-critical measurement not within specified tolerance X

Miscellaneous Defects

E b id / A li ) I l t b id


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Critical MAJOR MINOR

Defect Classification Lists Packaging

Size - a) Size marked on the package differs from the sizemarked on the item. Xb) Sizes vary within a set. e.g. Top labeled size 12 packedwith a skirt labeled size 14. X

Folding - Merchandise folded / packed incorrectly / not as specified,resulting in poor appearance. X

G.O.H. - Merchandise packed incorrectly / not as specified. X

Quantity - Quantity / Color / Size per box not as specified. X

Carton Labeling - Box Label / Marking differs from contents. X

Packaging - a) Packaging materials and dimensionsnot as specified. Xb) Damaged carton / box. X

Labeling Defects

Country of Origin - a) Missing, incorrect or illegible. Xb) Not caught completely or not sewn securely. X

c) Placement not as specified. X

Fiber - Composition -a) Missing, incorrect or illegible. Xb) Not caught completely or not sewn securely. X) Pl t t ifi d X


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MAJOR MINOR

Size Label - Missing, incorrect, illegible. X

Care Label - a) Missing, incorrect, illegible. Xb) Not caught completely or not sewn securely.NB. Care label must remain legible for the life of the garment. X

Trimming and Pressing Defects

a) Attached threads on outside if longer than Xb) Attached threads on outside if shorter than Xc) Attached threads on inside if longer than Xd) Attached threads on inside if shorter than Xe) Loose threads on outside or inside (judged based on excessive or not) X XNote: Includes button / buttonhole threads

Pressing Defects judged on garment location, severity, and set production standard X X

Plymark Tickets - Plymark tickets in a conspicuous location. X


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DOMESTIC VENDOR NOTIFICATION FORM

Season:

VP:Bon-Ton AssignedResource #: Product Development Contact Person:

Product Mgr:Domestic

Vendor:

Address:

Quality/Compliance Contact Person:

E-mail:

Production Factory LabelOpen to buy

Month Style Description Units Comments* For QA use

Factory Name:

Bon-Ton Assigned Factory #:

Contact Person:

Phone:

Fax:

E-mail:

Address:

Submit this form to:BillGrange

DVP - Quality Assurance

The Bon Ton Stores, Inc.

This completed form triggers thefollowing events:

Social Compliance Audit/Human Rights Evaluationinitiated by STR or Omega (3rd party complianceaudit companies)Product Quality Inspection initiated by STR (3rd party inspection company)


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BON-TON STORES SOFTLINE INSPECTION REPORTReport Date:Prepared for: BON-TON STORES Page 1 of

310 W. WISCONSIN AVENUE Inspection Date:

MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN 53203 Project #:

Attention: BILL GRANGE Quality Assurance Tracking #:

Vendor Name:Vendor #:Vendor Address:

[ ] Int. Sew; [ ] Inline; [ ] Final; [ ] Re-insp.

Merchandise: Control Unit Available: Yes [ ] No [ ]Shade Bands Available: Yes [ ] No [ ]

PO #:Order Qty. Qty. Available Sample Size

Style #:

Color(s):

Place of Inspection (name, address & factory #):

Country of Origin: Inspector(s):

50% Rule Utilized: ( ) Yes ( ) No 10% Repeat Defect Rule Utilized: ( ) Yes ( ) No

INSPECTION RESULT: [ ] Accepted [ ] Rejected [ ] Not ReadyConclusion: The merchandise ___ _____ commercially acceptable.

(is/ is not)


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BON-TON STORES SOFTLINE INSPECTION REPORT

Comments: Page 2 Continued


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Project #: Tracking #: Vendor #: Page 2 of

Inspection Standard: ANSI/ASQ Z1.4-2008, General Level(II)

Others: ___________________

[ ] NORMAL INSPECTION [ ] REDUCED INSPECTION [ ] TIGHTENED INSPECTION

AQL: (2.5 ) MAJOR Major AC: RE: Result: Major

( 4.0 ) MINOR Minor AC: RE: Minor

*Cartons Opened: Pieces Inspected: Workmanship: pieces Measurements: pieces*Minimum of 8 cartons at least 2 cartons per size

MAJOR MAJOR MAJOR MINOR MINOR MINOR

PRINT: registration dye smears dye flaw

STAINS: oil grease dirt ink red blue chalk -

pencil water yellow rust

BUTTONS/SNAPS/HOOKS/LOOPS: loose missing

chipped broken dirty buttonhole missing

buttonhole not opened placement off

HOLES: holes needle holes

SEAMS & STITCHING: missed stitches broken stitches

loose/skipped stitches open hem raw edge

open/broken seam poor topstitching

fabric caught in stitch non inclusion pucker

poor repairs

ZIPPERS: placement off stuck broken pull broken

LININGS: hanging below hem too big or too small

ELASTIC: too loose too tight stretched out

POCKETS: misplaced sewn closed

LOOSE AND UNTRIMMED THREADS


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Project #: Tracking #: Vendor #: Page of

MULTIPLE DEFECTS

Style Matches Reference Sample (yes or no)(if no, describe on pg. 1)

Correct Incorrect

Shading (yes or no for each section)(if yes, describe on pg. 1)

Gmt. to Gmt. Panel Shading

Size Spec (report number out of tolerance) # Within Tolerance # Outside Tolerance

Pull Test on Buttons/Snaps/Hooks/Embellishments(pass / fail or N/A)

# Accepted # Rejected

Inspection environment, including lighting, isacceptable to conduct this inspection

[ ] Excellent (greater than 80 ft cdl); [ ] Good 70 - 80 ft cdl);[ ] Fair (60 70 ft cdl); [ ] Poor (less than 60 ft cdl)


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INSPECTION RESULTACCEPTED { }REJECTED { }

INSPECTION REPORT ( Hard Lines)

PROJECT # : REPORT DATE:__________

CLIENT : INSPECTION DATE:_______

VENDOR: REINSPECTION:{ }Y { } NFACTORY NAME : ________________________________FACTORY ADDRESSS: ________________________________ITEM :LOT SIZE:

SAMPLE SIZE : ON HOLD { }DESTINATION:

PO#: ___________________________STYLE :

INSPECTION STANDARD: ASTM/ASQ Z1.4-2008. , GENERAL LEVEL (II) OTHERS __________

{ } NORMAL INSPECTION { } REDUCED INSPECTION { } TIGHTENED INSPECTION

AQL : ( 0) CRITICAL AC: RE: RESULT: CRITICAL _______(4.0) MAJOR AC: RE: MAJOR _______

DEFECT DESCRIPTIONCR

MA

MI

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY:

The merchandise identified above was inspected for the client for quality, workmanship / construction and appearance. My signature confirms that the STR inspector hasdiscussed the results of this inspection with me and that I am an authorized factory representative: ______________________________ Print Name:

_________________________ .


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Client:Project Number:Item:

Page: 2

CARTON MARKINGS

COMMENTS:

__________________________ _________________________

UL-STR UL-STR

Bon-Ton Qa Inspection Manual

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