Boatbuilding Manual - Chapter 2

22

description

Considering buidling a boat? Read this chapter on boatbuilding kits to get started.

Transcript of Boatbuilding Manual - Chapter 2

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plans

There are several ways To go once you have decided to build a boat. you can build from scratch using plans from one of the many sources available nowadays, buy a boat kit, or buy full-size paper patterns for hull parts. refer to a current boating magazine or use online search for plans.

The boat of your dreams may be a simple rowboat, a boat for both rowing and sailing, a daysailer or cruiser, a power craft for waterskiing or fishing or both; or you may set your sights higher, and be satisfied only by a larger powerboat for cruising. whatever the type and size, take your time selecting plans. remember, it takes only a second to decide to build your own boat, but it might take years to complete it.

There is a wealth of plans for plywood composite construction methods such as the stitch-and-tape method, sometimes called stitch-and-glue or taped-seam. This method is discussed in Chapter 11. some designers offer full-size patterns for the hull parts to be made from flat sheets; others furnish thoroughly dimensioned scale drawings for the parts.

lofting, discussed at length in Chapter 7, is the process of drawing hull lines full size, working from the designer’s scale drawing. Much, if not all, of this work is eliminated when building a hull by the stitch-and-tape method, but such hulls are limited to the shapes that can be formed from flat panels.

There are also designs available for a number of other construction tech-niques including lapstrake plywood, strip construction, and traditional

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wooden construction, as well as for other methods and materials covered by this book.

regardless of their source, try to determine whether the plans that interest you are sufficiently detailed for you to completely understand the vessel’s construction. It cannot be emphasized too strongly that good plans are well worth their price, because their cost is but a fraction of the total cost of the boat. The cost of the plans might be considered as insurance that the fin-ished boat will be a success. when designers do not draw the profusion of details that the novice builder would like to have, this book should be very helpful in filling in some of the missing information.

I would warn you against making changes in the hull lines, heights of superstructures, or locations of major weights. such procedures can result in unsatisfactory performance at the least, or even downright reduction of seaworthiness. Consult the designer before making any major changes, and if he advises against them, you will be better off using plans that will give you what you want without departing from the drawings.

ExamplEs of plans

I am using plans I drew over the years as examples of adequately detailed drawings. The Rudder magazine, which unfortunately disappeared many years ago, was once known far and wide for its down-to-earth practical content and “how-to-build” small craft plans. I was fortunate enough to be selected to do a number of these. In fact, in 1950 The Rudder collected

Figure 2-1.Plans for this Herreshoff descendant, the Somes Sound 12½, by Brooks Boats Designs, run to 16 large sheets. (Brooks Boats Designs)

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a series of my monthly boatbuilding articles and published them as Small Boat Construction, which was actually the first edition of this book. The majority of the illustrations from that first edition, drawn in 1949–1950, still appear in the edition of Boatbuilding Manual you are reading now. when it comes to building wooden boats, the old expression really is true: The more things change, the more they stay the same.

Figures 2-2, 2-3, and 2-4 are plans for a 19-foot arc-bottom daysailer I did in 1948 for The Rudder to the general specifications of the magazine’s editor. I named this boat “Triton” (a name I do not think had been used for a class of boats at that time). over the years I have heard good things about the design from as far away as england (where the builder obtained the framing lumber from an obsolete British army truck), Brazil, and Cuba, just prior to the Castro revolution.

Figures 2-5, 2-6, and 2-7 are for a 1984 design for an 18'7" inboard-powered launch I christened Barbara Anne. respectively, the figures are a combination outboard profile and arrangement plan; the lines plan; and the construction plan. a separate written specification for the various parts on the construction plan is keyed to the circled numbers to avoid cluttering up the drawing any further. running to three or four dense pages of scant-lings and hardware, the specifications should of course be included in the plans package you purchase for a boat.

over the last several years there has been a proliferation of small design firms focused on the amateur boatbuilding market. The tendency has been for these designers to develop and refine their plans packages to make them much more understandable and user-friendly than they were years ago, even to the point of providing fairly detailed written step-by-step instructions. Take some time to identify and compare some of these designers, and remember that the quality of the plans and the support available from the designer may end up being as important to you as the size, construction type, and general configu-ration of the boat itself. lots of them have websites nowadays, and those who do not may be happy to talk to you on the telephone. If they don’t have time for you before you become a customer, they probably won’t later on!

The plans package for a somes sound 121 ⁄2, a plywood lapstrake design by Brooks Boats Designs, for example, includes seventeen plan sheets, a thirty-two-page specifications manual, and twenty-seven pages of lists as well as seven full-size pattern sheets covering dozens of individual parts. Brooks, like many contemporary designers, has free study plans available online. Figures 2-8, 2-9, and 2-10 show details from the full-size pattern sheets for this boat.

another approach to plywood boatbuilding that has gained consider-able prominence over the last few decades is the stitch-and-glue method,

(continued on page 28)

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Figures 2-2, 2-3, 2-4. These plans were drawn by the author as part of The Rudder’s “How-to-Build” series and appeared in the February 1948 issue of that publication. Large-scale blueprints were offered by The Rudder for use by home builders. The arc-bottomed form makes this a relatively simple boat to build. (The Rudder, reprinted with permission)

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Figu

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Figures 2-5, 2-6, and 2-7.Outboard profile and arrangement plan, lines plan (including the offsets), and the construction plan for the

18'7" inboard-powered launch Barbara Anne.

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Figu

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Figu

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Figure 2-9. Details of the stem profile, forefoot filler, and deck stringer from the full-size plan sheets for the Brooks Boats Designs Somes Sound 12½. (Brooks Boats Designs)

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Figure 2-9. Details of the stem profile, forefoot filler, and deck stringer from the full-size plan sheets for the Brooks Boats Designs Somes Sound 12½. (Brooks Boats Designs)

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Figure 2-10. The transom knee, transom profile, and other details from the full-size plan sheets for the Brooks Boats Designs Somes Sound 12½. (Brooks Boats Designs)

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described in greater detail in Chapter 11. sam Devlin is a west Coast designer who has refined and developed this method and has even written a book on it. his plans, or study plans, for the 22-foot powerboat he calls the surfscoter can be purchased at his website, devlinboat.com. Figures 2-11 and 2-12 show a few details from those plans demonstrating the attention he gives to the specifics of construction and the needs of the amateur boatbuilder.

plans for Boats Carrying passEngErs for HirE

every year there is a great number of boats built to carry six or more fare-paying passengers, whether it be for sightseeing, dinner and dancing, or, more likely, fishing. If you are contemplating building such a craft, you should be aware that, in the interest of safety, the construction and equipment of passenger-carrying boats are regulated by the U.s. Coast guard. The regulations are not unduly strict, but you should not start construction without at least obtaining approval of the hull construction. The routine is fairly simple if you take the time to consult with the closest office of the U.s. Coast guard. In general, an application is made for the inspection of the boat, specifying the service, the route, and the number of passengers to be carried. If there is a complete set of plans, it should be submitted; otherwise, if construction is to be started quickly, general arrangement drawings are necessary and also details of the hull construction. The Coast guard has a book of regulations that spells out the design and equipment requirements and lists the plans that must be sub-mitted for approval. They no longer offer the book for free, but they can tell you the location of a government bookstore that stocks the publication. The regulations are also available online. you will find a great deal of guidance at the Coast guard’s website. vessel construction and inspection information can be found at the “Passenger vessel safety Program” page.

rEstoration

restoring old wooden boats and even early fiberglass boats has gained con-siderable popularity. This is easy to understand since many of the older designs have more appeal than the look-alike plans turned out today. Much restoration is done by amateurs, but a good many professional shops are kept busy catering to those who prefer the older, sometimes classic boats, both sail and power, and can afford to have others do the restoration.

an amateur planning to restore a boat that has caught his eye should be wary of one that has deteriorated beyond his ability to repair it, or one that will require too much time and money—even if money is not important, an excessive amount of time can destroy his enthusiasm before the job has been completed.

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Figu

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Figu

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hardly a month goes by in which a boating magazine does not carry a classified ad reading “1945 classic mahogany runabout, partially restored. . . .”

In any event, the situation is not unlike choosing plans from which to build your dream boat—first be absolutely certain the design is exactly what you want, and then, if you are not personally capable of making an accurate judgment of the boat’s condition, hire a surveyor for the job. and don’t use just any surveyor: get one that is unquestionably familiar with

the type of construction employed in the craft being considered.

An elegant line drawing of the Coquina, a traditional plank-on-frame interpretation of a classic Herreshoff design available from D. N. Hylan & Associates. (Doug Hylan)

BOATS BuiLT FROm PLAnS AnD KiTS

Building a boat from readily available plans is one tried-and-true approach.

Shown here are several boats for which plans and/or a kit is available.

(continued)

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Over the years, thousands of junior racers have trained on the Blue Jay, a 14-footer

designed in 1947 by the venerable design firm of Sparkman and Stephens. (Sparkman

and Stephens)

This Dix 43, built in aluminum, is shown at anchor in Antarctica. (Franz Joho)

The Paper Jet is a hot little number—on a reasonable scale—from Dudley Dix.

(Billy Black)

For modest ambitions, here is a trailerable 25-footer, a Roberts design.

(Bruce Roberts)

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This interpretation of the traditional Nova Scotia Tancook Whaler was designed by

George Stadel and built by Bill Rogers of Woods Hole, Massachusetts. This

photograph was taken before the internal ballast was installed. (Bill Rogers)

The Surfscoter 26 is typical of the wide range of boat plans using the stitch-and-glue method

available from Devlin Design Boatbuilders. (Sam Devlin)

Thousands of builder/sailors have lived the tropical dreams on the innovative

catamarans of James Wharram. This is his Tiki model. (James Wharram)

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BuiLDinG SeA KniGHT

Glen-L sells a variety of plans and other materials to support home boatbuilding.

Bill White purchased Glen-L’s plans for Sea Knight, set up his shop, started build-

ing, and launched the boat sixteen months later. (Photos and captions courtesy

Bill White.)

Building the form.

The plywood for the hull was scarphed on the floor into 18-foot lengths and installed

as single sections. No fiberglass was used on the boat.

Polyurethane enamel was applied over resin-based epoxy primer. No antifouling

paint was needed.

The framing is white oak; holes were drilled on the frame uprights before assembly.

1.

3. 4.

2.

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Once the hull was turned upright, epoxy was applied to the bilge. From this point

on in the construction process, attention was paid to the placement of fixed

weight to achieve proper fore/aft and port/starboard balance.

Building the cabin.

The cabin was built, and a flexible texture finish was applied to all exterior

surfaces above the bumper rail.

White polyurethane enamel was applied to the topsides.

Sea Knight after launching.

5.

7. 8.

6.

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