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‘Blue Destiny’

Boat Systems Guide

The following is a guide to all systems and important items on the boat.

It will make your life easier not having to ‘discover’ where everything is and find all the

systems and how to use/maintain them.

Also as attached schedule see :

1. In Water Survey and Inventory

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Contents

Manuals and Documentation ................................................................................................................. 4

Toilet ....................................................................................................................................................... 4

Bilge Pumps ............................................................................................................................................. 4

Sinks ........................................................................................................................................................ 5

Fresh Water............................................................................................................................................. 5

Shower Sump and Pump ......................................................................................................................... 6

House Batteries ....................................................................................................................................... 7

Engine Battery ......................................................................................................................................... 7

Solar System ............................................................................................................................................ 8

240V Battery Charger .............................................................................................................................. 8

Autopilot ................................................................................................................................................. 8

Saltwater Deck/Anchor Wash and Galley Pumps ................................................................................... 9

12V Switch Banks .................................................................................................................................... 9

Wind, Depth, Speed and Compass Instruments ................................................................................... 10

Chart Plotter .......................................................................................................................................... 10

AIS ......................................................................................................................................................... 11

Dinghies and Swim Platform ................................................................................................................. 12

Engine, Fuel System and Bleeding ........................................................................................................ 12

Rudder and Hydraulics .......................................................................................................................... 14

Shaft, Propeller and Rope Cutter .......................................................................................................... 14

CD/MP3/Radio Player and Speakers ..................................................................................................... 14

Gas System ............................................................................................................................................ 15

VHF Radios ............................................................................................................................................ 15

Safety – Jacklines, Harness, ERPIRB, MOB Kit and Series Drogue ........................................................ 16

Portable HF Receiver ............................................................................................................................. 16

240V outlets .......................................................................................................................................... 16

12V/240V Fridge/Freezer ...................................................................................................................... 16

Sails and Sail Covers .............................................................................................................................. 17

Reefing Sail ............................................................................................................................................ 19

Anchor Winch........................................................................................................................................ 19

Anchors and Anchoring ......................................................................................................................... 20

Keel ....................................................................................................................................................... 21

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Saloon Bed, Cockpit Bed, Deck Box and Forward Shade ...................................................................... 21

Swim Platform ....................................................................................................................................... 21

Masts ..................................................................................................................................................... 22

Television .............................................................................................................................................. 22

x ............................................................................................................................................................. 23

Schedule 1 – In Water Survey and Inventory ........................................................................................ 23

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Manuals and Documentation All manuals and boat information/documentation are found in the manuals locker

underneath the dish drainer box in the galley. There are three main blue folders containing

much of the boat information, along with numerous separate handbooks and equipment

manuals.

Toilet The toilet empties into a holding tank under the forward berth port side. The tank is

emptied when required by operating the long pump handle on the toilet bulkhead. The

pump may be accessed by removing the pump box cover. The holding tank is good for up to

say five days depending on use. The holding tank has a vent hose behind the locker, leading

up to a vent outlet on the topsides. The vent hose has become blocked in the past by wasp

nest mud and then can cause the toilet to smell. The vent hose is accessed for clearing at

the back of the locker and from the outside. The holding tank does have an inspection port

and dipstick bung but these have never needed to be used. Keep the holding tank low to

minimise any problems. It is possible to remove the entire forward cabin locker for full

access/removal of the holding tank but this should not be required.

The outlet seacock labelled ‘Toilet Out’, is located under the forth forward floor hatch and

the inlet seacock labelled ‘Toilet In’ is located under the third forward floor hatch.

When toilet pumping becomes stiff, remove the six screws holding the top pump cover,

clean the pump cylinder and smear with silicone grease. This will make for easy operation. A

new toilet was fitted in 2014 and the system has been no problem.

Bilge Pumps There are three bilge pumps. They are Engine Sump, Lower Bilge and Main Bilge as noted on

that switchboard panel. They are all operated automatically by float switches when the

switches are flicked to the right. If any pump operates, it will sound an alarm and show a red

LED on the switchboard.

Flicking the switches left will manually switch on a pump and the alarm and LED will come

on. Manual operation has never been necessary. The alarm can be silenced by switching the

‘Bilge Alarm’ rocker switch, but ensure it is restored to ON. The alarm may be tested by

pressing the red ‘Bilge Alarm Test’ button. A wiring diagram for the pump control board can

be found in the Electrical Handbook.

Spare pumps and float switches are onboard in the pump box located in the lazarette.

The Engine Sump pump is accessible behind the engine box and the frame holding the pump

and float switch may be removed by the two large screws recessed into the floor.

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The Lower Bilge is the smaller pump recessed into the keel and would operate first. If this

pump cannot drain the water, then the Main Bilge pump would also come on. The Lower

Bilge is found under the third forward floor hatch and the Main Bilge is found under the

galley floor hatch. With the Lower Bilge, the output hose backwash volume is enough to

keep the pump switching on and off continuously because it can never drain the little sump

empty. Use the red plastic hand pump next to the Lower Bilge to clear the small sump.

A terminal block near each pump connects the wiring directly to the switchboard. All pump

wiring is independent of the Main Switch and wired directly to the House batteries via each

pump fuse. Only the Engine Sump has ever triggered with excess water due cooling system

maintenance and/or accumulated drip water from the propeller shaft seal. Ha dripless seals,

no such thing. There was going to be a Lazarette Pump but that has never been installed.

There is a short hose in the engine sump area that could be connected to the raw water

engine pump inlet side, thus pumping water out of the bilge. This might be about 10l/min so

I’m not sure of its effectiveness in a real emergency.

Under the second forward floor hatch is a Ruckman 240v 400w electric pump. This is an

emergency high volume pump and would probably need a generator to keep it pumping

long term, although the inverter would run it for a while. It may save a boat one day ...

Sinks The galley and bathroom sinks all drain into a seacock labelled ‘Sinks Out’, located under the

fourth forward floor hatch.

The smaller galley sink and the bathroom sink both have inline stopcocks located just under

each sink. On an excessive port heel, outside water can actually flood into the two sinks

slowly. To enable the main galley sink to remain in operation whilst sailing, the two inline

stopcocks may be closed to isolate those two sinks. All sinks can be closed by operating the

main ‘Sinks Out’ seacock but this is not normally necessary.

Note also that the bathroom sink tap also has an inline stopcock as the starboard side water

tanks can be higher on an excessive port heel. This is also mentioned in the Fresh Water

section.

A solution of caustic soda is periodically left to sit in the galley sink hoses (by turning of the

‘Sinks Out’ seacock) for a time to dissolve accumulated fat and scum.

Fresh Water There are four fresh water tanks. Tanks 1, 2 and 3 are located behind the starboard saloon

seats. Each tank has a stopcock to the main line and all three stopcocks are accessible in the

floor of the locker under the seats. For tanks 1, 2 and 3, there is a PVC pipe tool that makes

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turning on/off the stop cocks more easy. Tank 4 is located under the aft saloon seat and has

a stopcock just behind the cushion.

Each tank is turned on one by one to feed the mainline that supplies the galley foot pump

and the bathroom tap. The mainline first goes through a fresh water charcoal filter located

under the galley floor hatch. There are spare filters onboard in the lazarette pump spares

box.

The galley foot pump is accessible by removing the lower galley drawer and a spare pump

and diaphragms are also located there.

The bathroom tap can be operated by pumping, or more conveniently for washing hands, by

pressing the white push switch with your knee to operate a small inline pump. The inline

pump and one way valve that keep the pump primed can be accessed by removing the

lower drawer under the forward saloon seat and then the small floor hatch. The inline pump

is powered via the ‘Head Pump’ switchboard switch.

I only ever have one tank on at any time and choose a tank depending on the boat balance.

There is a wooden dipstick located behind the door to tank 1 and can be inserted into the

screw bungs.

A small amount of bleach can be added to each tank via the screw bungs to sweeten the

water if required. The chlorine will dissipate after a short time and leave the water good for

drinking. With the charcoal filter I have never had any water problem

There is a 20l emergency container found under the fourth forward floor hatch.

Tanks 1, 2 and 3 are filled by the starboard deck inlet and tank 4 by the port deck inlet. Inlet

cover key is kept in the second bottom galley drawer. There is a spare key there also. I put a

small piece of wet towel at the deck rails just behind the filler hole to divert water into the

tanks when it is raining. The tank tops do weep and excess water will seep into the bilge

when tanks are full to overflowing. This has caused some rust to the steel punching and

concrete ballast top layer but may be remedied in the future by a new topping of cement

and a fibreglass fabric seal. The tank tops should be sealed with a sealer to prevent further

unnecessary water from getting to the lower bilge.

All tanks are vented by hoses through the ceiling and out to blue plastic vents on the cabin

trunk forward.

Shower Sump and Pump No internal shower has been fitted, although the bathroom floor does drain into a shower

sump located under the third forward floor hatch. The sump has a pump that may be

manually operated from the switch labelled ‘Shower Sump’ on the switchboard. It does

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have a float switch, but that has been disabled because of cycling on/off due hose volume

backwash.

Any chain water from the anchor locker also drains into this sump box.

House Batteries There are four 200AH 6v golf cart batteries located under the aft bunk (new Nov 2017). They

have a total capacity of 400AH 12v and are cabled through the main battery switch below

on the bunk bulkhead face, to the buzz bar system next to the batteries. 12V DC power from

the buzz bar then feeds to the switchboard via the large red switch labelled ‘DC On/Off’ on

the switchboard.

They are wet cell type and require the battery water to be kept topped up. The battery

water and a small funnel are located behind the batteries.

NOTE that turning off the main battery switch will NOT provide power to the bilge pumps.

House power is normally turned off only at the ‘DC On/Off’ switch on the switchboard so

power is maintained to the bilge pumps.

Battery voltage may be monitored by the LED ‘House Battery Volts’ display. Total current

used at any time, not including any bilge pumps, anchor winch or autopilot, can be read

from the ‘House Battery Amps’ meter. This amp reading also does not include any power to

the inverter, as the inverter is wired directly to the house batteries.

The ‘DC On/Off switch supplies power to the three switch banks adjacent and also the

Autopilot and Stereo/Radio panels.

When leaving the boat, simply switch off the ‘DC On/Off’ switch on the switchboard to turn

off all power, excepting to the bilge pumps.

The batteries are normally charged via the solar system, however, there is a paralleling

switch labelled ‘Parallel House Batteries’ located on the port side engine cover that will

parallel the house batteries to the engine battery for charging via alternator. Normally when

charging like this, turn off the ‘Engine Battery’ switch so the alternator is only charging

similar sized batteries. The ‘Alternator Amps’ meter will show the charging current.

Engine Battery The engine start battery is located in the engine compartment (new Mar 2017). It is

switched on/off by the battery switch labelled ‘Engine Battery’ on the port side engine

cover. It is normally kept charged by the alternator.

The house batteries may be paralleled if required by switching the adjacent red switch

labelled ‘Parallel House Batteries’. If the house batteries are left paralleled for charging via

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the alternator, I usually switch off the ‘Engine Battery’ so the alternator is only charging

similar sized batteries. See note about paralleling the batteries in the House Batteries

section.

Solar System The solar system has 2 X 300W panels installed Oct 2019. The panels are connected in series

to make full use of the new MPPT controller (installed 2018). Heavier DC cable is used for

connection into the solar charge regulator located below the switchboard.

The maximum current on a good day is up near 36A and the MPPT regulator will show the

battery voltage, panel voltage and charge current.

This is a very good system that has had no trouble and supplies all power requirements with

the odd engine top up if motoring.

240V Battery Charger There is a C-TEK multistage 240V 20A charger located under the aft bunk. Plugged into a

240V source, either shore power or onboard generator, it will charge the batteries via the

buzz bars at 20A.

Autopilot The Coursemaster autopilot black control box is located below the chart table and is

powered by the switch labelled ‘Autopilot’ on the switchboard. This panel also has a amp

meter to show the autopilot current draw. Note that there is a fuse in the control box

(whereas all other fuses on board are on the switchboard).

Connected to the control box are the rudder sensor, fluxgate compass, control head,

hydraulic pump and handheld remote steering control.

The rudder sensor is adjacent to the rudder post and located under the rudder box on the

rear deck. The rudder sensor was replaced on 04/2015 and will probably be the culprit when

a rudder alarm is seen on the autopilot display.

The fluxgate compass is located in the locker under the chart table and should not have any

metallic items nearby.

The control head is located in the nav box along with the other instruments.

The hydraulic autopilot pump is located in the lazarette on the inside bulkhead. The pump

makes an irritating sound on some courses and could be relocated, connected by flexible

hoses and sound proofed.

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The hand held remote is on a long cable coiled below the chart table. With this cable is led

forward on deck, you can sit on the deck box and steer with the handheld remote and also

switch to pilot from there. The remote up forward has been a very nice system in the right

conditions.

The system is simply used by turning on the switchboard ‘Autopilot’ switch and then

pressing either the Standby or Pilot button on the control head. Once the control head has

initialised, press the PILOT button to automatically have the autopilot maintain the current

heading or press the STANDBY button to resume manual wheel control. Various settings and

other functions are available. Refer to the Coursemaster manual on board. The

Coursemaster techs are friendly and can be reached via the email address shown in the

manual.

On some sailing angles you can set some counter rudder and the boat will hold course

without the autopilot.

Saltwater Deck/Anchor Wash and Galley Pumps There is a saltwater inlet seacock located under the galley floor hatch. The hose leads

through a strainer and supplies the inline pump that supplies saltwater to the galley sinks

and also to the high pressure deck wash pump. All the items are accessible under the galley

floor hatch.

The galley pump is powered by a switch labelled ‘Galley Salt Pump’ on the switchboard. The

galley inline pump also has a one way valve in the line to keep it primed.

The high pressure deck wash pump is powered by a switch labelled ‘Deck/Anchor Wash’ on

the switchboard and has two tap outlets on deck. One is on the aft deck at the port base of

the cockpit roof frame and is used to wash the deck and also a short shower hose can be

connected as a saltwater shower. The shower hose is in the port lazarette.

The other outlet is forward on the anchor winch box and is used for deck washing and also

anchor and chain washing. This longer hose is stored in the forward deck box. The deck

wash pump is usually switched off when not in use as a failure of the lines may cause a lot of

saltwater to be pumped inside the boat.

12V Switch Banks The three banks of switches on the switchboard supply power to the relevant items as

labelled. Each circuit is protected by a fuse of suitable rating. All cables behind the banks are

labelled and also some are colour coded at both the switchboard end and the equipment

end. There are no messy tapping into circuits by other equipment. Every item has its own

pair led back to the switchboard.

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Some items like 12V cigarette outlets or lights are wired in parallel as that circuit goes

around the boat. Most pairs from the switchboard will go to a terminal block to connect to

the equipment. It is obvious to locate the block related to each piece of equipment.

All connections are crimped and soldered rings for security. Ceiling lights also have a

terminal block for each in the overhead lining.

Wind, Depth, Speed and Compass Instruments The instruments were installed into the cockpit nav box new in March 2015. There is switch

labelled ‘Wind/Depth/Speed/Compass’ on the switchboard that will power up these

instruments. Except for the compass, the instruments are connected to a Raymarine New

Generation Bus connector which is inside the nav box.

The wind transducer is on the masthead and its cable is fed down inside the mast and

routed to the back of the Wind Instrument.

The depth transducer is located at the bottom of the chart table locker and its cable is

routed to the back of the Depth instrument. The depth transducer is 1.2 from the bottom of

the keel and the Depth readout is offset to show the depth of water UNDER the keel. Its

cable is routed to the back of the speed instrument.

The speed transducer is located under the lift out base of the aft starboard saloon seat

locker and can be accessed for internal cleaning as the transducer has a watertight flip gate,

however no ‘dam’ has been fitted so some water would get in. It is easy cleaned by diving

under the boat.

There is a spare port in the nav box bus connector and a 3m cable (found onboard in the

electrical drawer) can be plugged in and led to the chart plotter via a small hole in the

starboard side of the nav box. This allows depth and boat speed information to be sent to

the plotter. I have connected this without any problem but prefer the chart plotter to be

standalone for easy removal or relocation below deck for route planning.

The Raymarine manuals are on board in the manual locker.

The compass light has not been installed but is onboard if required. There is also a hand

held bearing compass located in the locker beneath the chart table.

Chart Plotter The Raymarine E7D chart plotter (installed March 2015) is mounted conveniently on the

cockpit ceiling. It can be swivelled around to any angle and be viewed sitting in the comfort

in the forward cockpit area or facing aft when you are at the wheel.

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The plotter, along with the cockpit ceiling light and the VHF radio is powered by the switch

labelled ‘Cockpit VHF/Light/Plotter’ at the switchboard.

The plotter may also be moved down below and plugged into any 12V cigarette socket with

the adapter cable on board. This may be done for evening route planning, however, I use my

laptop and the excellent and free OpenCPN software to plan routes. I then export those

routes onto a micro SD card (found in the plotter slot #2) and then insert the SD into the

plotter in the cockpit and import the route (and vice versa if necessary). An excellent and

easy system.

The Raymarine manual is on board in the manual locker. There is also a Raymarine online

manual available for download. The manual can also be loaded into the chart plotter.

The optional depth transducer that came with the E7D is also on board and could be

connected to the plotter in the case of main depth sounder failure.

As mentioned before in the Wind, Depth, Speed and Compass Instruments section, a cable

can be connected to the Raymarine bus in the nav box and then connected to the plotter to

provide depth and boat speed information to the plotter. The cable is on board but I have

preferred the plotter to be stand alone.

AIS A Vesper Marine AIS XB-8000 transponder was fitted in Jul 2016. MMSI Number :

503042260. It is an excellent top of the line product. The main unit is in the starboard aft

hanging locker. It has a dedicated GPS and VHF antenna fitted to the davits on the starboard

side. The VHF antenna is fine laying horizontal but can be set vertical for greater range

which hasn’t been found necessary. The ‘AIS’ switch on the main switchboard powers up the

unit. The unit WiFi’s to a mobile app named Watch Mate by Vesper Marine, freely

downloaded and upgraded. The mobile app is used to control the unit, set alarms, monitor

anchor position and set silent mode if required.

The manual is in the Electronics folder. It is capable of WiFing all data from the Navioncs Bus

to mobile apps and even the chart plotter, but this was never setup or deemed necessary.

It is wonderful to be on watch in the cockpit, or bunk, and see all vessels nearby and

particularly those that trigger the CPA (closest point of arrival) alarms that you can set.

The app also has an excellent Anchor Watch facility where you can see your full swing

history around your anchor point. After late night wonderings of big lights in the distance, or

a dragging anchor, this unit has been marvellous.

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Dinghies and Swim Platform The hard dinghy is a robust and capable tender. It has two storage areas, one forward and

the other under the aft seat. With the good set of oars, it is quite capable of being rowed a

long way if required, however, it is usually run with the 5hp Yamaha outboard.

The 5hp Yamaha was new in Aug 2014. A new carburettor, spark plug and impeller and

impeller housing were fitted in Oct 2019 as routine maintenance. The spare Mercury 3.3hp

on the stern rail has hardly been used. Spare propellers, spark plugs etc for the two

outboards are found in the second floor compartment below the fridge.

Petrol and 2-stroke oil are kept up in the forward deck box. There is also another 20l petrol

jerry in the port lazarette giving a total of 40l petrol. A 5l container of 2-stroke premix is

always kept in the dinghy rear seat locker along with the bailer.

The dinghy is hoisted onto the davits by block and tackle and then cleated off. The two

securing lines are passed over the dinghy crisscrossed and then boat hooked under the

dinghy and then tied to the opposite stern rail points. The dinghy painter can also be cleated

to further reduce any lateral movement in a seaway.

Engine, Fuel System and Bleeding The engine is a Yanmar 3QM30H and is a very robust motor that runs nicely.

The engine manual is in the manuals locker. A note book also notes the engine hours at

various times and what maintenance was done at what hours.

The main fuel filter, secondary fine fuel filter, fuel pump and lines are all new and where

replaced in Oct 2019 due to a tiny split in the fuel pump diaphragm. That allowed air into

the fuel side of the diaphragm from the crankcase and caused me numerous engine stop

issues. I put clear fuel line in after the pump and then I could clearly see the problem. That

issue has finally been resolved.

While I serviced that fuel pump issue, I also rebuilt the water pump. The pump shaft seal

areas were refaced, machined and polished. New bearings, seals and impellor were also

fitted. There are spare bearings, seals and impellors on board

Fuel is fed from the tank through a priming bulb, to the primary fuel filter. To fill this filter

after replacing the filter element, open the air bleed screw on the top of the filter and

squeeze the priming bulb until fuel is drawn from the tank and all air is expelled from the

bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw.

The secondary filter, mounted on the engine is also primed in a similar way. Open the bleed

screw on top of the filter and using the fuel pump lever (or squeeze bulb) to force fuel up to

this filter and expel all air in the line out the bleed screw. Note that you may have to turn

the crankshaft pulley to get some travel on the fuel pump lever. Tighten the bleed screw

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when all air bubbles are forced out. A big rag under the filter to catch the expelled fuel is a

wise move.

If air has got into the injector pump at any time while the engine was running, you may have

to also bleed each cylinder injector. That is done by slightly undoing each injector nut in

turn, while cranking the motor, with the decompression lever on to prevent a start. All these

procedures are detailed in the engine manual.

The fuel tap on top of the tank is now loosely wired open, as some years ago it vibrated shut

and starved/stopped the engine. Another problem was diesel bug in the fuel tank that

blocked the rubber priming bulb inlet valve. I have installed a screen around the bottom of

the fuel tank riser tube to prevent any similar problem. You can withdraw the riser tube and

check if there is anything on this strainer screen when doing a filter change. The other

unused riser tube actually goes to the bottom of the tank and could be used to remove any

water/sediment sitting at the bottom of the tank, but I have never had any water/sediment

issues with the fuel tank.

The fuel tank top cover can be removed and you can actually get into the tank if required for

cleaning. Ha, impossible on many other boats.

The engine is raw water cooled and was designed as such and is great for simplicity. The raw

seawater seacock is located under the galley floor hatch. The hose passes saltwater through

a strainer and up to the water pump. Replaceable anodes are found at three places into the

water jacket. Maintenance of these anodes protects the engine against corrosion.

Whenever I shut off the engine for any long period, and/or in a rolly anchorage, I always

shut the raw water intake seacock. I then put the engine start key around the seacock

handle. In this way I can never start the engine without first having turned on the seacock.

I have had a rolly anchorage pump water up the exhaust and/or around the water pump to

flood the engine. I have raised the exhaust elbow vent loop to a higher level to stop that

again and also shutting the raw water intake seacock seems to be a good routine.

The engine shutoff switch is the pull switch located on the engine control and instrument

panel. I always use the compression lever when starting the engine to minimise strain on

the starter motor. The compression lever is located on the starboard side companionway

behind the engine panel.

An oil change is done by sucking out the old oil via a tube down the dipstick hole using a

brass hand pump. The same goes for the transmission oil. The hand pump, along with spare

filters, anodes, impellors and alternator belts, are located in slide out plastic bins on the port

and starboard sides of the lazarette.

There is a spare alternator on board along with oil for multiple oil changes of both engine

and transmission oil.

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Rudder and Hydraulics The rudder is transom mounted on three substantial bearings of Maritex material (new

bearings 2012).

The hydraulic helm, along with the autopilot hydraulic pump, actuates the ram connected to

the rudder post. Any hydraulic oil inspection and/or top up, is done by removing the bright

steel plug on the top of the rudder box and filling the tube. I f the system needs to be bled,

tubes and bottles are located in slide out plastic bins on the port and starboard sides of the

lazarette.

The helm sometimes ‘slips’ and makes a nasty chattering sound. I am told that the pressure

relief valves in the helm are probably dirty and are allowing this chatter. I have not

addressed this problem to date, however, the system works fine.

In the case of hydraulic failure, an emergency tiller arm is located under the aft bunk. It may

be fitted to the rudder post.

The handbooks for all items are located in the manuals locker.

Shaft, Propeller and Rope Cutter The shaft is 35mm (1 3/8”) and was replaced 2012 due to some propeller guy advising me to

do that when I snapped a propeller blade (corrosion due lack of zincs). Not sure if it was

really necessary, however, there is now a spare propeller shaft located under the aft bunk.

The shaft goes out through a ‘Deep Sea Seal’ that has a red emergency clamp that can shut

the seal in case of seal failure. The stern tube is a Maritex material (new bearings 2012). The

propeller was replaced in 2012 and also fitted with a quicKutter rope cutting device.

The shaft and propeller are protected against corrosion by an anode that is fitted behind the

propeller. There are two different sized stubs (3/4” and 7/8” dia) and a normal shaft anode

can be clamped around the stub. I got the two sizes so more choice in buying shaft anodes.

The stub is bolted into the end of the shaft and the shaft anode is fixed to the stub. The

anodes are replaced whenever necessary and there are spare anodes and the other sized

stub on board in the forward locker under the pilot berth.

CD/MP3/Radio Player and Speakers A mobile phone, iPod or similar player can be plugged into the AUX input on the front of the

player. If a long lead is used, control can be had in the cockpit.

There are three sets of speakers and each can be switched in or out and/or faded in

between. One set is in the cockpit, another in the saloon and another in the forward cabin.

There is a switch labelled ‘Speaker Switching’ located aft under the switchboard that can be

used to switch between speaker sets. Position ‘A’ is forward cabin and saloon, position ‘B’ is

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saloon and cockpit and position ‘A+B’ is all three. The Fader menu item on the player can

fade between speaker locations.

Note : Cockpit speakers were removed for painting in 2018 and have not yet been refitted.

Speaker wires connect into the nav box in the cockpit roof.

The AM/FM antenna is on the davits and often kept down so as not to put a shade line

across the solar panels.

Gas System The system has a Gas Compliance Certificate located in the Certificates folder.

2 X 9kg gas cylinders are in a gas locker located in the port lazarette. They are the Swap&Go

type available from petrol stations in Australia. The gas locker is vented to a cockpit drain

outlet.

Also in the gas locker is the gas regulator, gas nut socket spanner and the solenoid shutoff

valve which is controlled by the galley switch labelled ‘Gas On’. The operating bottle is

always left on and the solenoid valve, controlled from the galley, opens or closes the gas

supply to the galley.

There is a gas detector sniffer at the base of the panel behind the stove/oven. The gas

detector and other galley wiring are found in the galley forward top sliding cupboard. A

wiring diagram is found in the Electrical handbook.

One gas cylinder seems to last about 6 months of daily use including oven use. There are

cylinder change notes in the Engine Diary.

Filling connection hoses are found in a plastic gas toolkit next to the gas locker in the port

lazarette. They allow you to refill these cylinders from some other source. I have refilled

from Indonesian and Malaysian cylinders using the hoses and The Philippines will do a direct

fill.

VHF Radios The working VHF radio is mounted on the cockpit ceiling and is powered by a switch labelled

‘Cockpit Plotter/VHF/Light’ on the switchboard. The whip antenna is mounted atop the main

mast (fitted new 03/2015).

Another VHF is mounted into the switchboard but was found to be in an inconvenient

location. It is powered by a switch labelled ‘VHF Radio’ on the switchboard, although it does

not have any antenna connected or available. It remains as a spare radio.

There is also a hand held waterproof VHF which is located in the tray beneath the

switchboard. Spare ‘AA’ batteries are on board.

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Safety – Jacklines, Harness, ERPIRB, MOB Kit and Series Drogue If required, there is a webbing tape jack line that can be attached to the base of the rear

cockpit frame on one side, led forward around the cabin trunk and the foremast and then

back to the frame on the other side. Two automatically inflated harnesses are on board that

can be clipped to the jack line allowing uninterrupted movement around the deck.

There is a registered EPIRB (10 year battery life new 2014) clipped behind the starboard side

companionway entrance.

There is a MOB life ring, complete with strobe light and drift preventing drogue, stowed in a

canvas bag clipped to the port stern rail. This can be deployed quickly from the bag with one

pull.

The boat carries a Jordan Series Drogue which is stowed in the forward compartment under

the forward bunk. It requires a 15kg weight to be attached to its end. I had a metal frame

for this purpose but that has been removed from the boat. A plastic coated 15kg dumbbell

has been found a suitable item for this weight. The stern anchor would also suffice. The two

sliced eyes on the bridle, lying on top of the bundle, are dropped over the stern cleats and

the drogue let out. Good information is available on the internet regarding this drogue. This

drogue should hold the boat safe in the unlikely event of extreme weather.

Portable HF Receiver There is a portable Sangean HF receiver that will pickup strong HF signals. With more

modern technology available, I have never actually used this unit.

240V outlets The boat has 4 X double GPOs and 1 X single GPO wired directly to a 240V inlet located on

the starboard cockpit shelf. There are no circuit breakers installed as the system relies on

the marina power breakers. I have made a 240v box with a changeover switch between

shore power and onboard inverter, but that is yet to be installed.

There are two long 15A extension leads and one shorter 10A lead on board, along with

various 240V adapters and power boards.

12V/240V Fridge/Freezer The fridge/Freezer is very well insulated with 100mm foam all around. It is powered by the

switch labelled ‘Fridge’ on the switchboard.

There is a manual in the Electrical folder in Manuals area.

The bottom of the freezer will set things rock hard while the top and sides of the freezer will

cool drinks quickly. The fridge section cools by bleeding cold air in from the freezer

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compartment. Various foam plugs may be used to control the bleed of cold air into the

refrigerator section. Drinks kept at the bottom of this section will be nicely chilled.

When running from 240V, switch the ‘Fridge’ switch off and turn on the 240V outlet in the

compressor compartment. The thermostat for the fridge is located aft on the cabin trunk

side in the galley. A setting of ‘4’ is good for normal use. Set to full if pulling down freezer

bags full of Spanish Mackerel etc.

I did have a fridge man come and weld in a schrader valve so the system can be monitored

with fridge gauges and topped with gas if necessary, which has been done once when he did

that job.

Sails and Sail Covers The two Junk Sails are an interesting rig and make quite a good, easily handled cruising rig.

The sails are easy to raise and also drop straight down into the sail covers without the need

to be head to wind. They are very unlike the sloop rig and have no concentrated stresses at

any one point. Windward performance may not be sparkling, but nor is many heavy cruising

yachts, contrary to popular belief. Off the wind performance can be very good. As with all

yachts, certain angles are ‘sweet spots’.

In 2017 the original top yards both rotted in the tropics and on one trip up the South Chine

Sea, gybing the sails with squalls broke each yard. This resulted in the whole weight of the

sail hanging off the sling point and the strain ripped across the top panel of each sail. Those

panels have been removed and new yards made to suit the sails minus the top panel. I very

often reefed a bottom panels anyway, so decided that the sails would be just fine, maybe

even better, minus those top panels. Cleaner airflow up top and actually more sail area, as

now the bottom panels are not reefed so often ... who knows. New glassed PVC booms

where also made.

The foresail is a powerful sail and can often be used on its own for relaxed sailing. It seems

to pull the boat along nicely. You would reef that sail one panel say above 25kts.

The mainsail has a large area and is often used reefed to one or two panels. It may be reefed

to one panel in winds say above 20kts and then reefed two panels.

The foresail and mainsail may be goosewinged quite easily when the wind is getting close to

astern without the need for any poles as in a sloop rig. There are Goose preventer lines

located in the starboard companionway shelf box and they have SS hooks that clip onto the

boom ends. The foresail Goose line goes through a small block looped to the bow railing and

then cleated off to a fore cleat. The mainsail Goose line also cleats directly to a fore cleat.

These lines can have a lot of tension, so release them carefully using the friction of turns

around the cleats.

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There is a book in the manuals locker titled ‘Sailmaking’ by Colvin, which has a great chapter

on handling and sailing a Junk Rig. There is also much Junk Rig information on the internet

and it seems that those who have them swear by them and those who don’t will criticise the

rig. I believe that all rigs have their advantages/disadvantages, as seems to apply in

everything yachting.

Procedure to set sail :

1. Undo the three ties holding the sail bag poles together.

2. Raise the fore sail bundle out of the gallows using the double block system on the

adjustable lazy jack line. Pull the line down until the second knot comes into the

loop. Roll up this line and put it away in the small pocket on the sail cover.

3. Ensure that the sheet line is uncoiled and can be free to run out when the boom end

is released.

4. Unclip the two short lines at the boom end fitting that prevents the boom from

swinging side to side.

5. Fold down the forward gallows onto the deck box so the sheet lines will not foul on

the gallows.

6. If conditions are rough, get inside the safety strap loop. You can lean onto this strap

when hoisting sail.

7. Hoist the sail by pulling down on the halyard. There is a halyard winch but it seems

never needed due to the 3:1 purchase of the halyard system. Coil the halyard when

complete and hang it off the pin rail.

8. If the sail has not been fully hoisted (i.e. reefed), then take in the slack on the Throat

Halyard (the other line next to the halyard) to pull the yard sling point snugly to the

mast, otherwise it will see-saw on its sling point and have a nasty motion banging

the mast. Coil this halyard also and hang on the pin rail.

9. Return to the cockpit and sheet in the sail as required. The excess sheet line can be

left loose on the lazarette hatches or long coiled and hung off the hooks on the

cockpit roof back supports.

10. The main is the same procedure except that the gallows are fixed and don’t require

dropping out of the way.

Procedure to drop and stow sail :

1. The sails can be dropped easily when the wind is at 0-100 degrees, even when

strong. They can be dropped when the wind is behind but they will have much

pressure against the mast and not come down so easily. Better to round up more

towards the wind when the wind is up. Head to wind of course is the best and

neatest way to drop sail as the boom is centred and all sheets/sheetlets drop to the

deck.

2. Raise the fore gallows and clip the restraining line to keep the gallows standing.

3. Put yourself in the safety strap if conditions are rough.

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4. The sail will drop easily with its own weight so control the drop by letting the halyard

go hand over hand. Drop quickly for the last half if the boat is pitching, lest the yard

get the wrong side of the lazy jack lines as it swings fore and aft because the throat

halyard has now become loose.

5. Clip on the short boom end restraining lines from the gallows to stop the boom from

swinging.

6. Let go the inner lazy jacks so as to allow the sail bundle to rest onto the gallows.

7. The sail cover can be closed using the three ties to lash the sail bag poles together.

Catch the halyards behind the middle tie so they are pulled away from the mast and

don’t slap the mast all night.

8. The halyards may now be tensioned slightly, to stop mast slapping as mentioned

above and coiled and hung on the pinrail.

9. The main is dropped and stowed in a similar fashion.

Reefing Sail As the wind gets up, the sails are reefed to reduce their area. The boat will heel less and

forward speed can be maintained.

The halyard is let go hand over hand, until the bottom one or two panels are collapsed in

the sail bag. The halyard is then tied off to the pin rail. If any downhaul is required, to stop

any tendancy for the reefed panels to want to fly out of the sail bag again, the downhaul can

be unclipped from the boom and clipped onto the small rope ring (grommet) just behind the

mast of the batten that is now the new boom. The halyard can then be retensioned to set a

taunt sail. The throat halyard that holds the sling point close to the mast will have gone

loose as the sail was dropped and may now be tensioned to hold the sling point snugly to

the mast.

The bottom sheetlet, and also the second sheetlet up if two panel were reefed, will now be

too long and go block-to-block when sheeted in. To reduce the length of the sheetlets, pull

up the knot in the sheetlet and capture that knot into the small loop at the end of the top

batten of the respective panel. This knot-in-loop system is exactly the same as pulling down

on the forward lazy jacks to hoist the sail bundle. It is actually quick and simple.

The sheet may now be sheeted in to the required position.

Shaking out a reef is just the reverse process. Don’t forget to release the throat halyard and

downhaul or you will be wondering why you can’t hoist the sail up again.

Anchor Winch The anchor winch power is turned on/off at the switchboard on the Maxwell panel. Heavy

battery cables run forward to a winch control box. A lighter pair of wires also run forward to

Page 20

supply power to the solenoids in the control box and is fused by the smaller fuse on the

Maxwell panel.

Two foot switches on the anchor deck control the solenoids and hence winch operation.

There is a Maxwell handbook including wiring diagram in the manuals locker.

The winch motor was removed in 2014 as the commutator was blackened and required

cleaning. The brushes were fine.

Anchors and Anchoring The anchor winch is powered up by the big push/pull switch on the Maxwell panel at the

switchboard. The switch requires a fair push or pull to actuate. The winch is operated by the

two foot switches on the anchor deck.

Once the anchor and chain have been deployed and the anchor has set, set up the snubber.

Attach the nylon rope snubber to the chain using the chain hook at the snubber’s end. The

spliced eye at the other end of the snubber will drop over the Sampson post. Let chain out

along with the snubber until the chafe hose is on the other bow roller. Now let some extra

chain out such that there is a loop of chain hanging below the chain hook. This will ensure

that the chain hook won’t fall off the chain. Now close the chain gate and pin it shut.

When retrieving the chain and anchor, winch in some chain then stop to let the weight of

the chain pull the boat forward. This will give minimum stress to the winch. If windy, then

motor up to the anchor such that the winch is only lifting the weight of chain. It is a

powerful winch however and I have pulled up an old submarine cable on one occasion.

There is an anchor wash outlet and a hose for washing the chain and anchor as it is

retrieved. Any water that gets into the chain locker is piped into the Shower Sump and then

by float switch into the engine sump.

If you have say 60m or more of chain out, while retrieving, it may pay to check down below

at 30m to ensure that the chain is not stacking up in the chain locker. If a chain stack up

stops the chain from free falling from under the winch, chain can back up into the gypsy

wheel and cause a nasty chain jam and may even break things. It is a powerful winch and

needs care in operation.

Just as the anchor nears the roller, check that the chain links are orientated such that the

anchor will come over the roller correctly orientated. This may require you to lift and turn

the chain on the roller. A swivel is no help in this matter, in fact worse, contrary to popular

belief and 9 times out of 10 the anchor will come over the roller correctly without any twist.

The anchor is finally held firmly into the roller by tension from the winch. Be careful not to

over tension when bringing the anchor home into the roller.

Page 21

The anchor winch also has a rope drum that can be used to haul rope. Unscrew the top of

the winch using the winch lever located under the first companionway step, also with the

sail winch handles and sailing gloves. Unscrewing will release the cone clutch and allow

independent rope drum operation.

Refer to the Maxwell handbook on board in the manuals locker.

Keel The keel is filled with steel punchings embedded in concrete, as specified as an option for

this yacht by the designer.

As weeping water from the water tanks lids (tanks 1 and 2) and the occasional salt water

overflow from the raw water intake filter cleaning, the top layer of this concrete keel has

rusted and lifted. I have removed the expanded layer and it seems fine and normal for a keel

of this type.

My next job to this area is to apply a new layer of cement mixture and apply paint rather

than actually try to seal the area. I am confident that this and the acid nature of the cement

mix will minimise further corrosion for some years to come. I deem this not to be a major

issue and simply part of boat maintenance and ageing.

Saloon Bed, Cockpit Bed, Deck Box and Forward Shade The saloon table leg can be removed and the wooden bearer is fitted between the forward

and aft seats. It will support the table and form a great double bed. The wooden bearer is

kept on the narrow shelf behind the saloon seat backs. The first blue cushion against the

wall of the forward cabin is made to fit over the table to complete the bed.

There are two white panels on the starboard cockpit shelf that sit on the rails along each

cockpit seat. The panels will form a double bed in the cockpit which is wonderful for calm

nights at anchor, sailing or even day time. The cockpit cushions can be arranged on the

panels. There is a cream coloured mattress to suit the cockpit bed size, folded up in the

forward cabin above the blue cushions. This mattress also fits on top of the deck box and is

a great place when the forward deck shades are fitted.

There are two shade cloth panels that are rolled up and lashed to the port rail. These install

quite quickly up forward over the deck box and provide excellent shade.

Swim Platform The swim platform is normally raised when sailing and then lowered by the tackle system

when required for swimming or dinghy work. With the platform down, the wire cables

would snatch if any swell or wake from a passing boat got under and lifted the platform.

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This snatching would shudder through the boat and not be nice. This has been fixed by

having slightly shorter softer nylon rope supports that absorb any snatch. At one point the

platform had steel struts that permanently held the platform down, however, slamming

with swell from behind made this not workable. The struts have been removed.

Masts The masts are good and very strong. They flex slightly with the rig loading as designed.

The main mast has some steel rings around it down below. Once in gale force winds, one of

the timber joints below deck started to ‘work’. I think that might be due to some soft timer

around that joint because all other joints are fine. The original builder who built the masts

didn’t glass the below deck section. I think he wanted varnished timber to be seen. Anyway,

the straps have sorted out that problem.

The masts are held in the mast collars by pourable setting rubber to form a tight flexible

gasket. Recently for some obscure reason, the main mast rubber returned to goo and oozed

out, running down the mast inside the cabin. I replaced that by tight nylon packers in the

mast collar all around the mast and hammered down. It is fine again now. The same has

actually happened more recently to the fore mast and it got the same treatment I have

cleaned the goo and taped on drip collars to catch the last drips.

Check that the bolts at the base of the foremast are tight. I retightened them once,

removing the fore shelf, as slight movement was felt at the base. I put on double nuts to

stop any future loosening.

The masts both have 19mm irrigation hose internally for cables to pass from the mast head

to the mast base. The fore mast only carries the TV antenna cable while the main mast

carries four different cables. They are the VHF antenna, wind instrument, navigation lights

and the flood light. The four cables fit in the hose ok but it is difficult to pull a single cable

out or in. If future cable work is required then you will need to pull out all four cables at the

same time. This is fine as each cable can be disconnected near the mast base. Don’t forget

to attach a pull line to the longest cable at the bottom when withdrawing the cables from

the top.

Television The TV works well and is connected to a antenna amplifier that is located in the wooden box

behind the solar controller. The TV switch on the main switchboard sends power to bother

the amplifier and TV itself. The TV will accept DVD’s, USB movies and also attach to a laptop

via the HDMI cable.

Page 23

x

Schedule 1 – In Water Survey and Inventory

31st July,

2011

APPRAISAL OF CONDITION REPORT

Requested by : Greg Youdale

Purpose : Condition Report for Insurance

This inspection was carried out in the water at Challenger Harbour, Fremantle on 29th July, 2011

The owner has been made aware of any of the items noted in this report to be corrected/improved;

only as a general guideline, the items requiring priority attention are mentioned in the summary at the

end of the report; items in italics should be attended to as next priority, other items thereafter.

NB: NSC = of No Structural Concern at present; SI = Safety Issue

Vessel Name: “Blue Destiny” Registration : D0484, HIN : AU-TWA 0331154 AD7

Designer/Builder: 39’ (12m) steel schooner, designer Bruce Askew (RINA), Wellington NZ, hull built &

engine/rudder/shaft/prop installation carried out by the original builder, Alan Gluyas

(Marine Surveyor) in Perth 1992-94. Current owner completed the construction/fit out

and launched the vessel in April 2007.

Hull: External:

Internal:

Steel plate, 5mm below WL, 4mm topsides, 3 mm deck. All sections preblasted and

epoxy coated prior to construction then spot blasted after contruction. Coatings :

Internation Zinc Rich Epoxy primer, Jotamastic 87, Jotun Hi Build Chlorinated

Rubber/Jotun Hardtop Ultra top coat.

75 x 6mm frames at 500mm centres; side deep frames 100 x 5mm with 30 x 5mm

flanges, stringers 50x50x5mm angle.

Hull insulated above the WL with foam sheet and sealed with foamed urethane.

Keel: Filled with steel punchings and cement as per design.

Rudder & Steering: Transom-hung rudder on two pintles and gudgeons. Some play in bearings is evident

Page 24

and will be corrected at next haul out.

Hydraulic steering assembly has been properly installed.

CourseMaster CM85i hydraulic auto pilot properly installed.

Propeller: Austal 18FR33VP 3 bladed bronze 18” x 12” SN : 9502018. Not inspected as yet.

“Deep Sea Seal” on 35mm s/steel shaft, seal appears fine.

Galvanic Protection: Zincs : 2 hull, 1 rudder, 1 propeller. Reportedly adequate. Not inspected as yet.

Thru-Hulls: 5 x s/steel through hulls with s/steel ball valves. 2 x plastic through hulls for log and

sounder. All in good condition.

Above Deck: Pulpit and stanchions with two wire guard rails are all of adequate height & strength.

Hatches/Portholes: Fwd & main saloon hatches are of wood with toughened safety glass inserts. Drainage

ok and are properly made. Ventilators : 2 x saloon, 1 x galley and 2 x lazarette. Dorade

boxes to saloon and galley are made of timber.

Cockpit: 1 permanent cockpit drain and 2 larger storm drains that can be quickly opened if

required.

Rigging: Standing : None. The un-stayed masts are keel stepped and deck collared. Mounting

and mast construction seems of a high standard.

Running : Good condition.

Spars : Both masts of hollow construction, made from oregon sections, birds mouthed

and tapered, epoxy glued & sheathed in biaxial glass in epoxy.

Main 13.2 m x 305mm dia. Foremast 11.5m x 280mm dia.

Sails : Junk Rig. Main 48m2. Foresail 34m2.

Engine: 33HP Yanmar 3QM diesel. Has run less than 700 hours. Appears quite serviceable.

Temp/Oil/Charging alarm lights and buzzer. Engine stop solenoid.

Fuel System: Centreline steel tank installed aft of engine, 400 litre capacity. Piping to tank ok.

Electrics & Wiring: All electrics are properly fused and wiring is above average.

Separate House and Starter battery banks with isolating switches. Comprehensive

switch panel with a further isolation switch for non essential circuits.

Solar panels properly installed. One on the cockpit roof and the other above the davits.

Compass & other electronic instruments properly installed in the cockpit.

Bilges & Pumps: 3 electric bilge pumps are installed. 1 primary bilge, 1x secondary bilge, 1 x

engine/shaft seal pan. No manual bilge pump. Audible alarm sounds when float

switches are activated.

Below Deck: Gas cooker, 2 burner, grill & oven. Properly installed (no gas cert sighted). Gas sniffer

fitted below cooker leading to bilge and operational.

Gas locker holding 2 x 9kg bottles is properly installed and vented to outside.

Safety Equipment: GME MT401 406 MHz EPIRB expires 2014. Tests ok.

10 PFD1 life jackets, offshore flare pack, 1.1kg DP extinguisher with good pressure

and pump rechargeable signal air horn. All in good condition and accessible from

Page 25

cockpit. 1 x CO2 activated PFD1 life jacket.

Radio : GFX600 VHF. Tested ok. Cobra MRHH300 EU Handheld VHF.

Misc Equipment: Danfoss BD35 fridge compressor in port quarter area. Installation ok.

Plywood pelican dinghy with internal buoyancy, oars, sails, bailer, anchor with 50m

line and 3.3 HP Mercury outboard with integral fuel tank.

2.4m Aristocrat inflatable in bag stored in a deck box yet to be fitted.

Ground Tackle: Main 20kg Delta anchor with 90m x 10mm short link chain marked at 5m intervals to

25m. Maxwell 1200 anchor winch properly fused and installed. Anchor has s/steel

swivel and shackles that are moused. Also 82m 13mm chain aboard & 45lb Manson

plough anchor lashed on deck. Lighter Swarbrick style anchor also aboard. 100+m

emergency line on drum behind the foremast. Adequate and good quality tackle.

Stability: Whilst in the pen with 20kn+ winds the vessel exhibited good stability.

Summary: This vessel has been constructed and fitted out to an above average standard.

Although structurally and operationally complete, there is still some minor fit out to be

completed.

An ‘Out of Water’ inspection may be done in the spring when the owner is ready to

haul out the vessel to replace the rudder bearings, renew the antifoul and recoat the

topsides.

This appraisal is given without prejudice or liability to any or all interests of the concerned parties, but

is conscientiously believed to be a true appraisal of the vessel at the time of inspection. It is based on

visual examination and documents sighted to the extent possible.