Boat Painting Guide

Boat Paint Guide & Color CardUS Edition

Ask the Experts

Technical data sheets

Material safety data sheets

Product labels

yachtpaint.com

1 800 468-7589

[email protected]

Boat Paint Guide & Color Card

For over a century we’ve been creating the most innovative paint solutions to protect,beautify and improve the performance of all types of boats.

No matter where you are, in whichever waters around the globe, you’ll find highperformance coatings backed by meticulously researched knowledge and support from Interlux.

Whether we’re in the lab researching and developing new products, or out on the waterputting our products to the test, we’re in our element. Getting the chemistry right iscritical to us, as is knowing the subtle differences between people and water all over the world. Wherever there are boats, we’re right at the heart of the matter, makingconnections, solving problems, sharing knowledge…

Our World is Water

02

Don CampbellTechnical Manager,

North America

Got a question? We’ve got experts who’ve got the answer!

Interlux and the environment: We have many products and systems designed to help you reduce your boatingenvironmental footprint. Call us or see the appropriate sections on yachtpaint.com for more information.

n Quick Reference Guide

Antifoulings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .04 Varnishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Topsides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .08 Primers and Undercoats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

n Before You Start

Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Equipment guidelines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

n ‘Step-by-Step’ Project Guides

Getting to know your substrates . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Painting your bilge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Always check the weather! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Preparing a non-skid deck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Making small repairs to fiberglass . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Applying varnishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Removing aged finishes or varnishes . . . . . . . . .28 Applying antifouling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Removing antifouling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Painting outdrives, stern gear, propellers and keels 46

Applying finishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

n The Complete Antifouling Guide

What is antifouling? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 How much antifouling paint do I need? . . . . . . . .53

Antifouling types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Below water systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54

Is my new antifouling compatible? . . . . . . . . . . .52 Propellers, outdrives and sterngear . . . . . . . . . . .57

n The Complete Topsides Guide

Working with finishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 One-part conventional paint systems . . . . . . . . .61

Testing for compatibility . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 Varnishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62

Application techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 Varnish systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64

Two-part premium paint systems . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Sikkens Cetol® Marine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65

n Blister Repair and Prevention

What is osmosis? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 How to recognize osmosis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68

How to protect against osmosis . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 How to treat osmosis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69

Osmosis protection systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68

n Troubleshooting Guide

Common problems and how to avoid them . . . . .70 Painting and project diary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73

n Color Card

Topside Finishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Antifoulings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77

Contents

Quick

Referen

ce Guide

Before

You Start

‘Step-by-Step’

Project Guide

sThe

Complete

Antifo

uling Guide

Blister Rep

air

and Prevention

The

Complete

Topsides Guide

Troub

leshooting

Guide

Color

Card

03

At Interlux, we recognize the importance of providing high-quality technical support and advice to all our customers. Whether you’re a novice or a more experienced DIY’er, you’re sure to have a question for us – and we’d love to help – here’s how you can reach us…

http://www.yachtpaint.com

Interlux and the environment: We have many products and systems designed to help you reduce your boatingenvironmental footprint. Call us or see the appropriate sections on yachtpaint.com for more information.

For comprehensive application and scheme information, always read the technical data sheet before you start.FRP WOOD STEEL ALUMINUM BRUSH ROLLER AEROSOL

“Need to know how to remove old antifouling?”

The answer is only a click away at yachtpaint.com

Jay Smida, Technical Service, Interlux

LEAD ZINC SPRAY

Quick

Referen

ce Guide

Before

You Start

‘Step-by-Step’

Project Guide

sThe

Complete

Antifo

uling Guide

Blister Rep

air

and Prevention

The

Complete

Topsides Guide

Troub

leshooting

Guide

Color

Card

Boat Paint Guide

05

Quick Reference Guide

04 Helpline: 1 800 468-7589 Open Monday to Friday

2 minimum 2-3 Use entire can per outdrive 2-3

407 440 22sq.ft per can 528

Water –

Fiberglass Bottomkote® Aqua Trilux 33® Trilux 33® Aerosol Pacifica Plus

n Solid protection againstall types of fouling,including zebra mussels

n Colorfast durable finish

n Easy clean-up withwater

n Reduced emissions, low odor

n Available in 5 bright cleancolors including White

n Ideal for use on allsubstrates, includingaluminum

n Biolux® blocks slime

n Slow polishing, avoidsseasonal paint build-up

n Effective antifouling in a convenient aerosol

n Biolux® technologyreduces slime andincreases antifoulingperformance

n For all outdrives andunderwater metal

n Copper-free ablativeantifouling

n Contains Econea™ to control barnacles and shell fouling

n High solids, low solventemissions

n Clean, crisp, brightcolors

2-3 2-3 (on bare wood) 2-3 (on bare wood) 2-3 (on bare wood)

440 430 455 407

ACT Fiberglass Bottomkote® ClassicUltraMicron® CSC

n Proven performance for 20 years

n Haul & relaunch withoutrepainting

n Wears down like a bar of soap

n Suitable for power andsailboats

n Contains Irgarol® tocombat slime

n Best value ablativeantifouling available

n Designed to erode awaywith use

n Overcoats existingantifoulings

n Eliminates paint build-upand sanding

n Proven all purposeantifouling protection

n Fast dry, paint and launchthe same day

n Overcoats any existingbottom paint

n Ultra strong formula forhigh fouling areas

n Fast dry – paint andlaunch the same day

n Biolux® increasesantifouling performance

n Use wherever the foulingchallenge is severe

✓ ✓ ✓

Key attributes

Thinners

Practical coverage (ft2/gallon) 320 440

Number of coats 2-3 2-3

Substrates

Safe for use on aluminum

Application method

Polishing Hard Speciality

Micron 66® Micron® Extra

n Top of the Micron range

n Patented self polishing copolymertechnology with Biolux®

n Best antifouling performance inthe harshest fouling conditions

n Maximum protection even duringstationary periods at the dock

n Not suitable for use in freshwater

n Controlled polishing – getssmoother with time maximizingfuel efficiency

n Biolux® technology boostsperformance by controlling slime

n Excellent for use on all boats* in all waters

n AntifoulingsUse this guide to our antifouling productsto help you choose the perfect product foryour project.

* Not for use on aluminum hulls. Use antifouling paints safely. Always read the label and product information before use.Irgarol® is a trademark of Ciba Specialty Chemicals. Econea™ is a trademark of Johnson & Johnson.

CONTINUES OVER ‘

433 or216

433 or216

433 or216

433 216 433 216 433 216 433 216 433 216

✗ ✗ ✗ ✗ ✗ ✗ ✗

06

Conten

ts


Key attributes

Thinners



Substrates

Suitable for high speed craft

Application method

High Performance

VC® Offshore

n For racing, sailing andpower boats

n Low friction surface for ahigh performance finish

n Hard, smooth finish canbe burnished

n Suitable for salt and freshwater

VC®17m Extra

n Hard, smooth, thin filmantifouling for a highperformance finish

n With fluoro microadditive for a low friction surface

n Quick drying for fast re-launch

FRP WOOD STEEL

n AntifoulingsUse this guide to our antifouling productsto help you choose the perfect product foryour project.

BRUSH ROLLER

Use antifouling paints safely. Always read the label and product information before use.

LEAD ZINC

355 V172

SPRAY

✓ ✓

“Need some hints and tips to achieve a professional topside finish?”

Get advice from the experts at yachtpaint.com

Quick

Reference Guide

Before

You Start

‘Step-by-Step’

Project Guides

The Complete

Antifo

uling Guide

Blister Repair

and Prevention

The Complete

Topsides Guide

Troub

leshooting

Guide

Color

Card

Boat Paint GuideQuick Reference Guide

08Helpline: 1 800 468-7589 Open Monday to Friday07

Boat Paint Guide

333

Bilgekote®

n Slip resistant polyurethanedeck paint

n Contains fine mineral additivefor hard wearing, non-skidsurface

n Suitable for all substratesn Low sheen finish preventssunlight glare

n Apply straight from the canwith brush or roller

n Hard wearing coating for bilges and bulkheads

n Chemical resistance to fumes,fuel and oil

n High opacity for thoroughcoverage

n Cleans easily for reducedupkeep

396 321

1-2 1-2

–

–

Interdeck

Key attributes

Thinners 2333N



Substrates

Application method

Recommended undercoat

For a satin finish add:

For a no-skid finish add:

EpoxyPrimekote®

Flattening Agent YZM914

Intergrip No Skid Compound 2398C



Perfection® Brightside®

n Ultimate performance, two-partpolyurethane finish

n Professional-quality resultsmade easy

n Highest gloss and highestabrasion resistance

n Unique UV protection forlongest-lasting color and gloss

n Hard, high gloss one partpolyurethane finish

n Excellent flow and levelingcharacteristics yield that‘sprayed on’ look when brush applied

n Ideal for use anywhere abovethe true waterline

n Full range of bright, crisp colors

n TopsidesUse this guide to our topside products tohelp you choose the perfect product foryour project.

Additives

Flattening Agent YMA715


333 216333 216

Epoxy Primekote®

or Pre-Kote

Epoxy Primekote®

or Pre-Kote

Epoxy Primekote®

or Pre-Kote

What is a flattening agent?...Flattening agents can be added to both Interlux finishes andvarnishes; and depending on themix ratio between the product andthe additive, a variety of gloss, satinor matt effects can be achieved.Interlux produces two types offlattening agent,suitable for use witheither the two-part or one-partproducts inthe range.

What is non-skidcompound?...Intergrip No Skid Compound2398C is a man-made plastic sphereadditive for transforming decks intono-skid surfaces. Its regular shapediminishes the tendency to collectdirt and has excellent non-skidproperties. Sprinkle onto wet paintor add in prior to application, thefinal result will be determined bythe amount of material added tothe finish.

Further information on FlatteningAgents for one and two-partfinishes and Intergrip No SkidCompound and their uses can befound on the product label or onthe technical data sheets, whichare available at yachtpaint.com

09

Contents


For a no-skid finish, use Intergrip No Skid Compound with your chosen varnish.GOOD OUTSTANDING‘BRUSH ROLLER SPRAY


–Flattening Agent YMA715

Goldspar® Satin OriginalCompass

n Fast-dry, high durability,polyurethane high gloss varnish

n Excellent resistance toabrasion, oils and chemicals

n Fast-drying, apply 2 coats perday, sand only after 2-3 coats

n Light amber color

n Contains HALS and UV absorbers

n A satin finish polyurethanevarnish for interior use

n Resistant to hot water, mildacids, alcohol and alkalis

n Fast-dry formulation minimizesdust contamination

n Traditional, general purposegloss varnish

n Good flow, flexibility and gloss retention

n High clarity finish for light color woods

n Interior, exterior and overexisting varnish

526 421 476

3-6 3 3

For interior use only

Key attributes

Thinners

Coverage (ft2/gallon) 489 526

2-5 2-6

Suitable for use direct to oily wood (e.g. teak or iroko)

Number of coatsWill vary depending on usage. Please check product label/data sheet.

UV Protection/Gloss retention

For a satin finish add:Flattening Agent YZM914


Perfection® Plus Schooner® Gold

n Ultimate performance, clear, two-part polyurethane varnish

n Chemical cure for the hardestfinish & highest abrasion resistance

n Superior gloss lasts four timeslonger than conventional one-partvarnishes

n Professional-quality results made easy

n 2:1 mix ratio: Easy to measure and mix

✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

n VarnishesUse this guide to our varnish products tohelp you choose the perfect product foryour project.

Application method

2333N216 216 333 216 333 216333 333

n Advanced UV technology in ourlongest-lasting one-part varnish

n Exceptional deep gloss and colorare retained over the lifetime ofthe coating

n Sand between every other coat

n Traditional amber color

n Use without thinning in warm/higher temperature climates

NEWNEW NEW

Additives

* Based on the results of our trials.

Gloss retentionoutperforms otherleading 1-partvarnishes*

Boat Paint Guide

Quick

Reference Guide

Before

You Start

‘Step-by-Step’

Project Guides

The Complete

Antifo

uling Guide

Blister Repair

and Prevention

The Complete

Topsides Guide

Troub

leshooting

Guide

Color

Card


10 Helpline: 1 800 468-7589 Open Monday to Friday 11

Contents

For comprehensive application and system information, always read the technical data sheet before you start.

1-2 1-2

450 420

Epoxy Primekote® Pre-Kote

n Undercoat for one-part finishes

n Contains Microspheres forsuperior build and hide, whileimproving flow and sandability

n Long-lasting, easy to apply and rub down

Above the waterline under Interluxone-part finishes

Do not use under two-partproducts

n A multi-purpose epoxy primer for use with two-part finishes

n Use as part of a system toresurface cracked and crazedgelcoat

n Eliminates the effects of amineblush of clear epoxies

n Bright white color makes it idealfor priming bilge and locker areas

Above the waterline under Interluxtwo-part finishes and in someunderwater systems

✗

✓

Undercoat

2-3 2 1

300 22 sq.ft per can 535

– Do not thin

Primocon Primocon Aerosol Fiberglass No Sand Primer

n Conventional one-part primer for usebelow water

n Quick drying, with anticorrosiveproperties

n Can be used under all majorantifoulings* or as a conversion coatover incompatible or unknownantifoulings

Below water, under antifoulings or to seal unknown antifoulings

Do not use with VC®17m systems

n A non bleeding, anticorrosive primerfor use on outdrives and outboards,prior to application of Trilux® Prop &Drive or Trilux® 33 Aerosol

n Reduces galvanic corrosion on metal surfaces

Below water, under Trilux Prop & Drive or Trilux 33 Aerosol

n Eliminates the need to sand fiberglassprior to applying antifouling paint

n Used on epoxy primers to improve the adhesion of antifouling paint

Below water, under antifoulings

✓

✗

BRUSH ROLLER SPRAYFRP WOOD STEEL ALUMINUM LEAD ZINC

Key attributes

Typically used

Thinners



Substrates

Application method

Suitable for above waterline

Suitable for below waterline

2316N2316N

InterProtect® 2000E InterProtect® 3000

n For prevention and repair of gelcoat blistering

n Excellent for use on underwatermetals, hulls and keels

n Easy to apply – dries quickly – no sanding

n Use as part of a no sand systemn Excellent anti-corrosiveprotection above & below the waterline

Universal primer for above and below the waterline

n A high solids epoxy coatingdeveloped to protect fiberglasshulls from water absorption

n Low V.O.C. for reduced solventemissions

n Contains Micro-Plates® for extra protection

n Can be applied at temperaturesdown to 32°F (0°C)

n Anticorrosive primer for metals

Below water on all surfaces

Use this guide to our primers andundercoats to help you choose the perfect product for your project.

✓✓

✓ ✓

✓

✗

✓

n Primers & Undercoats

Primer

333 2162316N 216433 216

✓

✓ ✓

What is InterProtect® 2000E?...InterProtect 2000E epoxy primerhas been an industry choice forprotection and repair since 1986.Favored by both consumers andprofessional applicators inboatyards all over North America,InterProtect 2000E remains amarket leader in protective epoxybarrier systems for fiberglass hulls.

InterProtect 2000E is an excellent‘Keel to Mast’ primer, i.e it can beused above and below thewaterline on most substrates.InterProtect 2000E has a naturalstructure within the epoxy coatingto create a barrier against waterpermeation, called Micro-Plates®.Technically, the InterProtect Micro-Plates formula providesmillions of overlapping microscopicplates. When bound, they create an overlapping barrier similar toshingles on a roof. This barriereliminates any direct path for water migration.

If you have a new boat, a new hullensure you protect your investmentagainst water absorption that couldlead to costly problems like crazingor cracking of gelcoat or evenblisters. InterProtect 2000E willhelp you get the most out of yourboat, for years to come. A hull wellprotected with a full InterProtectsystem has even been shown toincrease the re-sale value of boats!

* Over suitable primer

Quick

Reference Guide

Before

You Start

‘Step-by-Step’

Project Guides

The Complete

Antifo

uling Guide

Blister Repair

and Prevention

The Complete

Topsides Guide

Troub

leshooting

Guide

Color

Card

1413

Boat Paint Guide



Contents

Avoid skin contactSkin irritation can occur from contact with paintproducts. You should, therefore, always wearprotective gloves and protective clothing whenapplying or mixing any paint products. Overalls,which cover the body, arms and legs, should beworn. Skin cream, of a non-greasy barrier type, may be used on the face. Do NOT use petroleumjelly as this can help the absorption of paint into the body. Remove rings and watch straps beforecommencing work, as these can trap paint particlesnext to the skin. Remove any paint that does getonto the skin by washing with warm water andsoap or an approved skin cleanser. After washing,apply a skin conditioner. Never use solvent orthinners to clean the skin.

Risk of fire or explosion

Most paints contain organic solvents – some of whichevaporate into the air upon opening the container. Any dangers can be reduced if a few simpleprecautions are taken:n Avoid open flames where paint is being stored,

opened or applied

n Do not smoke

n Store paint in a well-ventilated, dry place awayfrom sources of heat and direct sunlight

n Keep the can tightly closed

n Avoid sparks from metals, electrical appliances beingswitched on and off, or faulty electrical connections

n Do not leave paint soaked rags lying around,in the pockets of overalls or in waste bins. Sometypes of paint can dry out and auto-ignite.

Face MasksThe type of mask that should be worn depends on the hazard of thepaint, length of time of the job, amount of paint used and where the job is being carried out. Spray application will require the use of full face masks and respiratory protection and as such it is recommendedthat it is only carried out by professionals with specialist equipment.

Hard HatA hard hat should be worn toprotect the head if painting inareas where there is a risk fromfalling objects or debris.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Before undertaking any work always consider the personal protective equipment that you will need; this willchange based on the job in hand and the product being used. Some of the most common items are listed below together with guidelines on when they should be used. However, for further information, consult yourInterlux Help Desk.

For your convenience, your local helpline number is shown on the inside front cover of this booklet and at thefoot of each page spread.

Before

You Start

‘Step-by-Step’

Project Guides

The Complete

Antifo

uling Guide

Blister Repair

and Prevention

The Complete

Topsides Guide

Troub

leshooting

Guide

Color

Card

16

Boat Paint GuideBefore You Start


Providing health and safety precautions for paintproducts is a legal requirement and forms a specificsection on our labels. However, the wording is laiddown by law and is often difficult to understand.This section is intended to help you interpret andunderstand the symbols and phrases you will find inour literature and on our product labels. We’ve alsoincluded some further information to make applyingpaint a safer job.

Before starting work always read the label. Each can may display a number of warning symbols andwritten warning phrases which will quickly indicatethose areas where particular care should be taken.Other general safety precautions are detailed belowand will help should any problem occur while usingour paints.

Personal Health

Avoid ingestionFood and drink should not be prepared or consumedin areas where paint is stored or is being used. Incases of accidental paint ingestion seek immediatemedical attention. Keep the patient at rest, do NOTinduce vomiting.

Avoid inhalationThe inhalation of solvent vapor from paint, or dust from sanding, can be reduced by the provisionof adequate ventilation or extraction. If this is notsufficient, or if specifically stated on the label,suitable respiratory protection should be used. Wear a cartridge type respirator when abrading oldantifoulings – never burn off or dry-sand antifoulingsas this may create harmful fumes or dust.

In badly ventilated areas wear an air-fed hood or cartridge respirator with an organic vapor filter. Solvent fumes are heavier than air. Breathingthese fumes can make you dizzy, feel drunk andheadachy and could even result in collapse. Read the label carefully and ensure that therecommended protection is worn.

Spray painting creates additional health hazards.Spray mists should not, under any circumstances, be inhaled. Read the label carefully and ensurerecommended protection is worn; generally an air-fed hood is the best protection as it provides a fresh air feed to the user.

Avoid eye contactEye protection should be used during paint applicationand when there is any risk of paint splashing on theface. Safety glasses or goggles are inexpensive,available from many DIY stores, and are well worthwearing. Use eyewear that complies with ANSIZ871-1989 Standard. If material does contaminate the eye,it is recommended that the eye is flushed with cleanfresh water for at least 15 minutes, holding theeyelids apart, and medical attention sought.

n Health & Safety

Contents

n Equipment guidelinesThe type of equipment you choose can make a difference to the success of your project. Guidelines for the best equipment to use are always detailed on the paint can and if a particular type of brush or roller is required,it will be specified. Further details are available at yachtpaint.com, however, this section should provide you withthe basics.

BrushIt is always important to choosea good quality brush, which is as large as you can comfortablyuse. A good brush is a goodinvestment and should becleaned properly after use.

RollerGenerally, a medium pile roller is recommended for antifoulingapplication, and a small cellfoam roller for gloss finishes.

SprayAlthough our products aredesigned for easy application by brush or roller, many can alsobe spray applied but will requirespecialist equipment. Consultproduct data sheets for sprayequipment recommendations.

Stirring StickA suitable stirrer will be neededto stir the paint prior to use; anold screwdriver is not suitablefor this job. A pallet knife orstirring stick is best. Removesurface dust with a dust wipe.

Mixing CupMixing cups with graduatedmixing ratio indicators aredesigned to ensure the correctand precise measuring andmixing proportions of paints,activators and thinners.

MaskingPrior to painting, the target areashould be masked off using ahigh quality clean-edged tape.There are two types available;paper masking tape which issuitable for antifouling, and highperformance tapes which are suitable for topsides finishesand will prevent creep.

Before

You Start

‘Step-by-Step’

Project Guides

The Complete

Antifo

uling Guide

Blister Repair

and Prevention

The Complete

Topsides Guide

Troub

leshooting

Guide

Color

Card

18

Boat Paint Guide

Helpline: 1 800 468-7589 Open Monday to Friday17

Before You Start

Safety BootsSteel toecap, anti-static bootsare advisable when painting your boat. These should provideankle protection, as a minimum.

Safety Glasses and GogglesEye protection should always be worn when using paint. The type ofprotection required depends on the job to be carried out. Safety glasseswill avoid minor splashes, whereas goggles offer more protection.

GlovesWhen painting, chemicalresistant gloves, that are in good condition, should be worn.The gloves should be replacedfrequently and always as soon as the inside looks dirty.

OverallsA cotton overall (minimum 60%cotton) with full length sleevesand legs should be used in allsituations where exposure to the paint is potentially high.Alternatively, if the risk to paint exposure is low, suitabledisposable overalls can be worn.

Barrier CreamBarrier cream should be used on exposed skin that cannot becovered by protective equipment.However, it must not be usedinstead of or in lieu of it. Do not use petroleum jelly based products as this will aid penetration of the productinto the skin.

Contents

‘Step-by-Step’ Project Guides

n Getting to know your substratesWorking with fiberglass

Fiberglass is made from polyester resin reinforcedwith chopped or woven glass fibers. Once the resinsets to a hard matrix the resulting laminate isstrong and rigid. The smooth external appearance is due to a protective gelcoat, made from polyesterresin.

Despite its obvious advantages, experience hasshown that fiberglass is susceptible to the effects of sunlight and the marine environment.

There are two problems to be aware of:

Fiberglass is prone to osmosis!

Polishing with wax may delay this, but eventually a coat of paint will be needed to restore color andprotect the surface.

Gelcoats fade!Eventually the gelcoat will begin to fade as a resultof exposure to UV (Ultra Violet) light in sunlight.

Working with aluminum

Aluminum is an excellent material for boats.However, aluminum alloys are prone to corrosion if untreated or damaged. When new alloys areexposed, an oxide layer forms on their surface. The oxide layer does not protect the alloy in the longterm when exposed to damp marine environments.Attention to the preparation of a new hull and themaintenance of an existing hull can save youconsiderable difficulties and costly repairs in thefuture.

Aluminum inspectionPeriodically the paint system will need to beremoved in areas of stress and any corrosiontreated. Careful inspection on an annual basis of all weld seams will allow for early identification of the occurrence of this problem.

Aluminum compatibilityAluminum reacts with some copper-basedantifouling paints causing serious corrosion.Therefore antifoulings containing metallic copper orcuprous oxide should never be used on aluminum.Only use copper thiocyanate based antifouling onaluminum, firstly ensuring it is primed properly.

For detailed information see Pages 66-69.

See The Complete Topsides Guide on Page 58.

‘Step-by-Step’

Project Guides

The Complete

Antifo

uling Guide

Blister Repair

and Prevention

The Complete

Topsides Guide

Troub

leshooting

Guide

Color

Card

20

Commencing with some basic advice on substrates and preparation, thissection provides a series of useful step-by-step guides to common boatpainting projects, along with all those useful bits of extra information andadvice that can really contribute to making your project an outstandingsuccess. Written by experts in a series of easy-to-follow steps, complementedwith simple illustrations, these guides provide the ultimate quick reference tool to the discerning DIY boat owner.

Top tips from the experts...


ScraperUse a scraper to remove oldpaint. Ensure you keep the toolsharp; it's a good idea to roundoff the corners to minimize therisk of gouging. A ‘dragging’ typeis usually more controllable thana ‘pushing’ type.

GrinderAngle grinders are used forgrinding, polishing and cutting.With a wide variety to choosefrom, the most important factorsto consider are the disc size andhow powerful the motor is. Thetype of disc required will dependon the job being carried out.

SandpaperWhen sanding, the amount ofpaper you will use will varyenormously. A very approximateguide would be one sheet persquare yard of bare substrate,such as wood or fiberglass. It is always better to use asanding block to achieve asmoother surface. For previouslypainted surfaces, half a sheetper square yard is a rough guideand sanding down betweencoats will use a similar amount.Antifouling must only be wetsanded.

Choosing the right sandpaper

The possible uses of the various grits of sandpaper can be summarized as follows:

60-120 To remove old paint or promote mechanical adhesion. This grit will leave the surface scratched thereforea finer grade of paper should subsequently be used.

180-200 On new wood, these grits are too coarse for sanding wood which is to be varnished.

220 For sanding finishes prior to the application of an undercoat or primer.

280-320 To sand bare wood and fiberglass or undercoats prior to the application of a finish.

320 To sand varnishes or a mixture of finish/undercoat.

400 For sanding freshly applied finishes.

400 and above For taking out any blemishes in a paint film.

Before You Start

Jim SeidelAssistant Marketing Manager

Contents

How to prepare bare substrates

All surfaces should be thoroughly degreased andfree from any sanding debris prior to the applicationof any paint to the surface.

AluminumDegrease with solvent. Sand well using 60-120 grit(aluminum compatible) paper. Clean thoroughly andallow to dry. Prime using an Interlux primer as soonas possible (within 8 hours) following the productrecommendations provided in the paint systemsguides.

LeadDegrease with solvent. Sand well using 120 gritpaper or power wire brush. Clean thoroughly and allow to dry. Prime using an Interlux primerfollowing the product recommendations provided in the paint systems guides.

Zinc/Galvanized SteelDegrease with solvent. Sand well using 60-120 grit(aluminum compatible) paper. Clean thoroughly andallow to dry completely. Prime using an Interluxprimer following the product recommendationsprovided in the paint systems guides.

SteelDegrease with solvent. Grit blast to Sa 2.5 – nearwhite metal surface. If grit blasting is not possible,grind the metal surface with 24-36 grit abrasivediscs to a uniform, clean, bright metal surface witha 50-75 micron anchor pattern. Use angle grinderon small areas. Clean thoroughly and allow to drycompletely. Prime using an Interlux primer followingthe product recommendations provided in the paintsystems guides.

Stainless SteelLight grit blast to produce a profile of 50 microns,clean thoroughly and allow to dry completely prior to application of an Interlux primer following theproduct recommendations provided in the paintsystems guides.

BronzeClean thoroughly and abrade to bright metal using 80 grit paper. Take care when abrading bronzepropellers, as excessive abrading can alter the profile of the propeller causing it to be out of balance.Clean thoroughly and allow to dry completely beforeapplying products recommended for applicationdirect to bronze (see paint systems guides).

Cast IronDegrease with solvent. Grit blast to Sa 2.5. If gritblasting is not possible, grind the metal surface with24-36 grit abrasive discs to a uniform clean surfacewith a 50-75 micron anchor pattern. Use an anglegrinder on small areas or a wire brush, prepare to a minimum St.3 according to ISO8501-1. Cleanthoroughly with solvent and allow to dry completely.Ensure that all evidence of corrosion (e.g. iron oxideand iron sulphide) is removed prior to theapplication of an Interlux primer, following theproduct recommendations provided in the paintsystems guides.

FiberglassDegrease with solvent. Sand well using 180-220grit paper. Clean thoroughly and allow to drycompletely. Prime using an Interlux primer followingthe product recommendations provided in the paintsystems guides.

Bare Wood/PlywoodSand smooth with 80-180 grit paper and then 280grit paper. Remove sanding dust by brushing ordusting. Wipe down thoroughly with solvent and allow to dry completely, to ensure any residualsanding dust is removed, before applying productsrecommended for application direct to wood (see paint systems guides).

Oily woods e.g. teakEnsure that the surface is thoroughly degreased using a recommended solvent to ensure all oils are removed. Sand smooth with 80-180 grit paper and then 280 grit paper. Remove sanding dust by wiping with solvent, to ensure any residual dust is removed. Ensure the surface is completely dry before applying products recommended forapplication direct to wood (see paint systems guides).

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Teak and Iroko: Teak and iroko are particularlyoily woods with a natural resistance to rot anddecay. Additionally they contain silica, which givesthem hard-wearing characteristics.

Oak: Ferrous metals, such as steel and iron, reactbadly with oak, due to the tannin in the fibers. Thiswill cause dark staining and even chemical attackon the metal by the tannic acid, which is formed.

SoftwoodsThe grain in these woods is long, straight andgenerally wider spaced than hardwoods as thesetrees grow faster. This means that their strength ismostly along their length so they are used in suchapplications as masts and spars, tillers, rubbingstrakes, oars and planked hulls.

Working with steel

Steel is a heat-treated alloy based on iron with alower carbon content and small quantities of otherelements. The high strength of steel in relation to the plate thickness and the ability to cut and bend it into many different shapes makes it suitablematerial for building hulls and superstructures.Fastenings such as bolts and rivets are often adifferent alloy for added strength, while fittingscontain added chromium, to make the steel‘stainless’ and resistant to rust. Having stated that steel is a good material for building boats, it is important to be aware of some of thecharacteristics of the material in order to ensure good results.

Steel corrodes!The most common form of corrosion in steel is rust.For the reaction to take place, water must also bepresent. The marine environment is therefore anideal place for rust to occur.

Steel stretches!Due to the high flexibility and strength of steel it is hard to break, but impact damage may wellresult in a dent owing to the metal stretching anddeforming locally. This can present problems for aprotective coating, which may not be so flexible.

Working with woods

Wood is the only natural boat building material used today, and although it generally requires more maintenance than the more commonfiberglass vessels, a well cared for boat, built ofwood, will always attract admiring glances whenshe sails into view.

The fibrous nature of wood means that it has atendency to absorb moisture from the atmosphere,and swell and contract to varying degreesdepending on the type of construction. For a varnishor paint coating to stay intact it will need to be quiteflexible in nature. The moisture content in wood canallow the growth of fungal spores, which leads to rotting and decay. Wood can also be subject toattack by marine borers, which eat the wood fibers.Wood therefore needs to be protected by goodquality preservatives and coatings. Many differentwoods can be used, which can differ immensely.

HardwoodsHardwood comes from slow growing deciduoustrees. They have a tighter grain than soft woods.This tight grain has good strength characteristicsacross the wood as well as along its length, makingit particularly suitable for decorative application, as well as boat building.

Mahogany: Mahogany will last for many years in a marine environment with little protection as theseawater has an antiseptic quality. The same is nottrue with regard to fresh water, which will lead torot and decay if allowed to permeate the woodfibers. Mahogany should, therefore, be protectedfrom freshwater at all times and wherever possiblewashed down with seawater.


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n Always check the weather!When painting outside, always check what weather conditions are anticipated duringthe preparation, application and drying phases of any project. Should fair weatherprevail, whether or not to commence painting will then depend on the air and surfacetemperatures, humidity and dew point.

You may find the following hints and tips helpful when planning your project – further,product-specific guidelines can be found on individual product labels and data sheets.

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General Guidance Notes:

n Dew point is important when applying paint to a surface, as the evaporation of the solvent fromthe paint draws heat and/or energy from thatsurface, cooling it down. If conditions are rightcondensation may form on the surface of thepaint resulting in various problems.

n Relative humidity is important as air can onlyhold so much water or solvent vapor at any onetime. So, as the relative humidity increases, thelevel of solvent vapor the air can hold reduces,meaning paint will effectively dry more slowly.

n Air and substrate temperature will affect thedrying properties of any paint. Failing to observethe recommended drying times can result incoating failure, including improper drying,wrinkling and loss of adhesion.

n Always avoid extreme air or temperatureconditions; Interlux products are tested across a range of temperatures, to ascertain the drying times and application characteristicsof each product. Drying time recommendationsare provided on our products labels; furtherinformation relating to weather considerationscan be found on our product data sheets,available on our web site.

Relative Humidity, or ‘RH’, measures the amount of water in the air in vapor form, comparing it to themaximum amount of water that can be held at a given temperature. For example, if the RH is quoted asbeing 50% at 73°F, this would imply that the air contains 50% of the maximum level of water vapor it could hold at 73°F. 100% RH indicates that the air is at maximum saturation.

When humid air comes into contact with cooler air, or a cooler surface, the water vapor will turn into water droplets. When this occurs on a surface it is referred to as the ‘Dew Point’.

Never apply paint above a maximum relative humidity of around 85% as at that level you will reach the dew point regardless of surrounding temperatures.

Relative Humidity can be measured using a hygrometer; a hygro thermometer will measure bothtemperature and humidity.

“What is ‘Relative Humidity’?”

We have all experienced ‘Dew Point’ at some stage. Condensation on windows is an obvious example. Dew Point is the temperature at which the air can no longer hold its water vapor and starts to form waterdroplets i.e. condensation. Condensation forms when air temperature lowers, reducing the amount of energyavailable to keep the water in vapor format. For example, a window forms condensation when the cool nightair hits the outside surface of the glass, lowering the surface temperature and the humidity in the house ishigh enough to cause condensation on the inside of the glass surface.

When painting, it is essential that you are able to paint a surface and avoid condensation forming during theapplication and drying stages. The optimum surface temperature for paint application is normally around6°F above the Dew Point; however some products may be more or less tolerant. When working with Interluxproducts, if in doubt, it’s always worth checking the relevant technical data sheet – available on our website– for further advice.

Dew Point can be calculated using the relative humidity and the air temperature; however, Dew Point ‘look-up’ tables are widely available via the internet.

“What is ‘Dew Point’?”

n Low temperatures will increase drying times;always check the ‘through-dry’ of each interimcoat, before sanding or overcoating.

n Sanding too early can cause the paint to wrinkle under the sand paper, in some caseseven tearing or gouging into the paint filmmaking refurbishment difficult. Sanding beforethe paint film is ‘through-dry’ can also clog thesand paper, meaning more sheets are needed to complete the task.

n Overcoating too early can cause wrinkling,blistering and loss of gloss in the finished paint job.

n High temperatures will reduce drying times, but can make application more difficult, asproduct flow and leveling can be compromised –particularly when applying finishes or varnishes.Where appropriate, thinning recommendations to help with higher temperature application areprovided on labels and data sheet.

n Do not paint in direct sunlight, or when thesubstrate itself is excessively warm, as theresidual heat of the substrate can adverselyaffect the application and drying properties ofany paint product; this can result in poor flowand leveling, rapid drying, cracking and loss ofgloss. Surface temperature can be measuredusing a surface thermometer.

Key points to note when applyingfinishes and varnishes:

n Dry, well ventilated conditions are preferablewhen applying finishes or varnishes. While gentleair movement will assist the drying process, a dust-free environment is critical to achieving a good quality gloss finish; always avoid painting in windy conditions.

n The effects of dust contamination may be furtherreduced by sanding lightly between each coat,removing residual dust by wiping down with asuitable solvent and allowing to dry beforeapplying the next coat. This will also help improvethe initial aesthetics.

n Avoid applying two-part finishes or varnishes late in the afternoon or when relative humidityexceeds 80% as these products are particularlysensitive to moisture. Condensation duringapplication or due to overnight ambienttemperature changes can affect the chemical cure of these products resulting in loss of gloss.

n When painting or varnishing wood avoid applying if the ambient temperature is increasing (orpredicted to increase) significantly. This is becauserising temperatures cause wood to expand, whichcan lead to blisters forming in the paint or varnishfilm. A good tip is to apply when the temperatureis falling, as the wood will better absorb the paintor varnish, giving better overall results.

When applying two-part products in highertemperatures the pot life of the product will also be affected, reducing your work time window.

Choosing a faster drying product or system, where available, will help to minimize the windowfor dust contamination.

Remember that surfaces heat up and cool down ata different rate to the surrounding air temperature,meaning even though the ambient temperaturemight seem warm, the temperature of the surfacebeing worked on may still be quite cold. Very oftenone side of a boat will be in the shade and theother in bright sunlight meaning the applicationconditions will differ. Additionally, in the morningthe surface temperature of the sunny side willgenerally be lower than the ambient temperature,whereas in the afternoon it may be higher.

Key points to note when applying epoxies (e.g. Watertite, InterProtect®,Epoxy Primekote)

n When curing in high humidity conditions,particularly at lower temperatures, epoxies candevelop an ‘amine blush’ on the surface. Thisslightly sticky substance must be removed andcan normally be washed off with soap and water.If the blush is not removed it can lead to thedelamination of subsequent coats. Failure toremove the blush will also make sanding moredifficult.

n High humidity conditions can reduce the amountof solvent evaporation during the drying/curingstages; with epoxies this can lead to a ‘softcure’. As epoxy-based materials are generallyapplied at a higher film thickness, solvent canremain trapped in the film for many days leadingto slow or poor final cure.

n Although epoxies generally cure well in mostconditions, when the temperature falls to 45°F or below, curing can slow or even stop.Remember to check both day and overnighttemperatures whether working outdoors or in a shed.

n Epoxy products usually respond well to a littleheat; on cold days introducing a safe form ofheating into the application area is well worthconsidering.

Blooming

Blistering

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Before starting your project, always check the weather conditions! See Pages 23-25.

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Applying the fillerMask off the damaged area and apply Watertiteusing a putty knife or spatula. Allow to cure,following the recommendations provided onthe product label.

Once cured, sand with 80-220 grit paper. The finished repair should be smooth and levelwith the surface. If required a second layer offiller may be applied, repeating the sameprocess. The repaired area can then be primed, ready for painting.



Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety glasses, goggles orvisors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuringskin is not exposed) and a face mask.

See Pages 66-69 for information on osmosis treatment and prevention.

InspectionInspect for damage. Small repairs can be tackled easily, but any damageaffecting a large area, or affecting the structure or hull integrity, should bereferred to a professional for proper assessment.

Preparation and PrimingRemove any loose filler or gelcoat and abradeedges to remove loose material. Remove alldebris and prime with InterProtect® 2000E or Epoxy Primekote, according to systemrecommendations provided elsewhere in this guide. Apply Watertite or Interfill® after the first coat of primer.

Stuart JordanSpecialist in Epoxies/Fillers Development

n Making small repairs to fiberglass surfacesWhen working with fillers it’s important to remember that epoxy fillers arerecommended for both above and below the water areas; polyester fillers are suitable for use above the water only. Interlux® Watertite is a two-part epoxy filler, suited to most DIY repairs above and below water.

n Two-part epoxy fillers are the most widely used fillers in the yachting industry. They are invariably solventfree. A benefit of being solvent free is that they do not attack the underlying primer.

n Epoxies must be mixed in the proper ratio. Too much curing agent and they will leave a sticky film on thesurface that is not suitable for overcoating. Too little curing agent will weaken the filler and cause it tocrumble later on.

n Below the waterline, epoxy fillers must be used. Polyester fillers should not be used as they have agreater propensity to absorb water.

Brian Waple, Product Manager, North America

“Working with epoxy fillers?”

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Click or call and ask the experts!

See Page 19 for sandpaper guidelines.

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Travis JohnsonRegional Sales Manager

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n Removing aged finishes or varnishesWhen preparing a surface previously painted with a finish or varnish scheme it may benecessary to remove the aged product, back to bare substrate. This will be required ifthe existing coating is in poor condition or if you’re intending to apply a two-part productonto a surface previously painted with a one-part finish or varnish.

Before starting your project, always check the weather conditions! See Pages 23-25.See Page 22 for bare substrate preparation guidelines.

Health and SafetyBefore commencing work ensure the area you are working in is adequately ventilated.Ensure you are wearing the correct PPE; werecommend safety glasses, goggles or visors,nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuring skin isnot exposed) and a dust mask.

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Remove any sections of the aged finish or varnish that are already loose,flaking or detached using a scraper – rounding the ends of the scraperbefore commencing will avoid gouging the surface, resulting in unnecessaryrepairs.

After removing the old finish clean the surfaceusing Fiberglass Surface Prep YMA601,Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 or Special Thinner216. Follow instructions on the product label.

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Abrade using 60-120 grit paper, removing as much of the paint or varnish aspossible.

Prepare according to substrate, following bare substrate preparationguidelines.

n We do not recommend using a chemical paint stripper when working with fiberglass, unless the producthas been specifically approved for this purpose, as this may cause damage to the substrate.

n Varnishing is best achieved on warm, dry mornings – cold weather slows drying and dampness spoils the gloss.

n When working with wood, always work in the direction of the grain, whether sanding or applying varnish.This will avoid scratches that can still show through, even after many coats of paint or varnish.

Bob Donat, Regional Sales Manager

“Hints to help you achieve a perfect finish.”


See Page 19 for sandpaper guidelines.

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Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety glasses, goggles orvisors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuringskin is not exposed) and a solvent mask or arespirator (if working on larger areas or inconfined spaces).

Kate MossSpecialist in Antifoulings Development

n Removing antifoulingIf your existing antifouling is in poor condition, we recommend removing it completelybefore repainting. Interstrip 299E has been formulated for removing antifouling from allsubstrates and is safe to use on glass fibre without harming the gelcoat.

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PreparationHigh pressure fresh water wash, to removeloose antifouling; ensuring all residue andwash water is contained and disposed of,according to local legislation. Mask off areas to be stripped.

Applying InterstripApply Interstrip 299E liberally, using an oldbrush, following the application guidelinesprovided on the product label.

Leave on the surface. The product needs time to work; the time needed willvary depending on the temperature and the amount of old antifouling on thehull.

For best results, work on a small area at a time – do not allow the product to dry out.See product label for more information.

Removing old antifoulingRemove while still soft with a blunt scraper. Interstrip 299E can removeseveral coats at a time, but heavy build up may require more than oneapplication. Residue should be disposed of according to local regulations.Reapply fresh antifouling after sanding and priming the hull.

See Page 43 for antifouling application advice.

There are three easy choices:

1. Check for compatibility with old antifouling. If the product is known use the Interlux® Compatibility Charton Page 52 of this manual.

2. If the old antifouling is unknown you can apply Primocon primer directly. Then simply overcoat with the Interlux® Antifouling of choice (do not use this system with VC®17m Extra, VC®17m, VC® Offshore or Baltoplate).

3. Remove the old antifouling.If the old antifouling is in poor condition remove it using Interlux® Interstrip 299E. After stripping you areready to prime and paint.

Jay Smida, Technical Service

“Is my new antifouling compatible?”


Contents


Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety glasses, goggles orvisors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuringskin is not exposed) and a solvent mask.

Neil NicolsonSpecialist in Finishes Development

n Applying finishesBefore starting any painting project consider the 3 most critical questions: 1) What preparation is necessary 2) Does the substrate matter and 3) What repair and upkeep is needed. Page 58 of this guide will provide this information and help you choose the best product for your project.

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For health and safety reasons, two-part polyurethane products should only be spray applied by a professional applicator.

InspectionCheck for areas of damage, separation or peeling, or any other indicationsthat the existing coating is not firmly adhered to the substrate.

Previously painted surfaces:

5 Priming/UndercoatingTo obtain the finest finish on fiberglass andwood and in the case of metal substrates thesurface will need to be primed. Your choice of primer and undercoater will be dictated by substrate and choice of finish coat. Systems for applying topside finishes begin on Page 60.For further advice contact Interlux at 1-800-468-7589.

Bare substrate:

Preparation – in good conditionRemove surface contamination by wiping down with Interlux® Special Thinner 216 orFiberglass Surface Prep YMA601. Once thesurface is clean abrade with 220-320-gritsandpaper. Remove the sanding residue andallow to dry.

Preparation – in poor conditionIf previous finish is cracking, peeling or showing signs of separation from the substrate all previouscoatings should be removed and the substrate primed.

4 MaskingBefore priming/undercoating, mask off the area to be painted.

Using a two-part finish? Ensure your existing coating is compatible. See Page 59 for compatibility testing guidance.

See Page 29 for advice on removing existing finishes.

Apply the finish, according to labelrecommendations.

See Page 59 of this guide for information on finish application techniques.

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n Ensure an even spread by holding the brush at 45° – this minimizes brush marks.

n The best finish is achieved on large areas by two people, one to apply the paint, the other followingimmediately behind to ‘tip off’ the finish.

n Clean or change brushes every 20 minutes or so. Always use lint-free cleaning cloths.

n Stir the can occasionally during the work.

n Dampen the ground with water before commencing painting to avoid any dust rising.

n Use a worn brush for the final coat, this will ensure less brush marks.

n Painting is best achieved on warm, dry mornings – cold weather retards drying and damp will spoil thegloss.

n Never apply direct from the can as this will introduce contamination.

n Always pour the amount of paint that you expect to use into a separate container.

Richard Jerram, Technical Helpline

“Achieve a perfect result every time!”


As gelcoat ages it becomes porous and brittle which may lead to cracking and blistering. To seal the gelcoat and get afiner finish apply InterProtect® 2000E or Epoxy Primekote.

6 ApplicationSand the undercoat smooth with 320-400 gritpaper and remove dust with a wipe or tack rag.

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Joe SzokeTechnical Service

n Painting your bilgeA freshly painted bilge is much easier to wipe down and keep clean, reducing the risk of odours that may result from unwanted residue. A clean bilge will also make it easierto find small parts or fastenings, which may have been dropped whilst working on yourengine or other equipment.


Preparation – in good conditionRemove surface contamination by wiping down with Interlux® Special Thinner 216 orFiberglass Surface Prep YMA601. Once thesurface is clean abrade with 220-320 gritsandpaper. Remove the sanding residue andallow to dry.

2 InspectionCheck for areas of damage, separation or peeling, or any other indicationsthat the existing coating is not firmly adhered to the substrate.


Health and SafetyBefore commencing preparatory work, ensurethe area you are working in is adequatelyventilated. Ensure you are wearing the correctPPE; we recommend safety glasses, goggles orvisors, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls (ensuringskin is not exposed) and a solvent mask or arespirator (if working in confined spaces).

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3

Preparation – in poor conditionIf previous finish is cracking, peeling or showing signs of separation from the substrate all previouscoatings should be removed and the substrate primed.

Pay particular attention if the substrate is the reverse side of molded fiberglass – this does not need to be primed.

ApplicationSand the primer smooth with 180-280 gritpaper and remove dust with a wipe or tack rag.

Apply 1-2 coats of Bilgekote.

For added protection against moisture absorption and osmosis in bilge areas,use Interlux InterProtect® or Epoxy Primekote – prior to applying Bilgekote – always follow the label instructions.


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PrimingBare substrates should be primed to promotegood adhesion and provide a smooth evensurface, prior to applying Bilgekote. Your choiceof primer will be dictated by the substrate;product recommendations are provided onlabels and data sheets. Remember to payparticular attention to drying times andovercoating intervals.

Bare substrate:

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Important: When painting in enclosed spaces, such as bilges, ventilation is very important not only for your ownhealth and safety but also to help the products dry properly. Wear the proper Personal Protective Equipment and tohelp the paint dry properly we suggest two fans; one to push air in and another to pull air out.

Contents


Preparation – in poor conditionIf previous finish is cracking, peeling or showing signs of separation from the substrate this should betotally removed.


4 MaskingBefore priming or applying a deck finish, mask off the area to be painted.

ApplicationSand the primer (if used) with 180-220 grit wetor dry paper. Remove dust with a dust wipe ortack rag, according to label recommendations.

Using Interdeck (ready-mixed formula):

For more information and systems for painting non-skid decks go to (link to be determined).

Mix Interdeck thoroughly; apply 1-2 coats. For best results either stipple by brush or use a mohair roller.

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ApplicationSand primer (if used) with 180-220 grit wet ordry paper. Add 4-6 ounces of Interlux Intergrip2398c per quart of Perfection or Brightside.

Using non-skid Additive (hand-mixed method):

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ApplicationSand primer (if used) with 180-220 grit wet ordry paper. Apply one coat of Interlux Perfectionor Brightside.

Using non-skid Additive (broadcast method):

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PrimingYour choice of primer will be determined by the substrate and the choice of deck finishproduct. Priming recommendations areprovided on labels and data sheets. Rememberto pay particular attention to drying times andovercoating intervals.

Bare substrate:

Using a two-part finish? Ensure your existing coating is compatible. See Page 59 for compatibility testing guidance.

Mix thoroughly. Apply 1-2 coats to deck area,using a brush or roller. For best results eitherstipple by brush or use a mohair roller.

While the paint is still wet, sprinkle InterluxIntergrip 2398c over the surface. Allow to drythoroughly following the recommendationsprovided on the finish label. Remove excessIntergrip. Apply second coat of finish.

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Helpline: 1 800 468-7589 Open Monday to Friday37 38

Travis JohnsonRegional Sales Manager

n Preparing a non-skid deckA deck demands a tough coating to protect it from everyday wear and tear. Where a non-skid surface is required Interlux offers 3 alternative solutions.



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2 InspectionCheck for areas of damage, separation or peeling, or any other indications that the existing coating is notfirmly adhered to the substrate.


3 Preparation – in good conditionBare fiberglassBegin by scrubbing well using soap and waterand a stiff brush. Rinse with fresh water andallow to dry. Wipe a small area with a clean ragthat has been wetted with Fiberglass SolventWash 202.

While the surface is still wet, wipe with a clean,dry rag. Continue this process until the entiresurface has been cleaned. Sand using 180-220grit paper. Remove sanding residue.

Molded fiberglassWorking in small areas at a time, scrub the areausing Fiberglass Surface Prep YMA601 andcoarse bronze wool or maroon Scotch-Brite®

pad. Be sure to scrub in different directions andwipe off the residue off before it dries. This willremove all contamination and provide a goodanchor pattern to which the paint can adhere.Rinse with fresh water.

Contents

PreparationClean with Special Thinner 216. Sand the surface smooth with 80-180 grit sandpaper to open the grain ofthe wood. Remove sanding dust by brushing or dusting. Wipe down thoroughly with Special Thinner 216or Brushing Liquid 333 and allow to dry completely, to ensure any residual sanding dust is removed.

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n Applying varnishesTo achieve a professional result from any varnish project, thorough preparation iscritical. If applying on to a previously varnished surface, the condition of the existingcoating and its compatibility with the new varnish product should thoroughly checkedbefore commencing any preparatory or application work.

Using a two-part varnish? Ensure your existing coating is compatible. See Page 59 for compatibility testing guidance.



Preparation – in good conditionClean with Special Thinner 216. Sand smoothwith 280-320 grit sandpaper. Remove sandingdust by brushing or dusting. Wipe downthoroughly with Special Thinner 216 orBrushing Liquid 333 and allow to drycompletely, to ensure any residual sanding dustis removed. (Note: Small imperfections may bespot primed and sanded down prior to fullvarnish application.) Continue at Step 6.

Preparation – in poor conditionIf previous varnish is cracking, peeling or showing signs of separation from the substrate this should be totally removed.

Continue at Step 5.

See Page 28 for advice on removing existing varnishes.

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Previously varnished surfaces:

It is important to ensure all sanding residue is removed prior to varnishing, as this will impair adhesion and give a‘bitty’ finish. Before commencing any varnish work, decant the amount of varnish you expect to use into a separatecontainer, to avoid introducing contamination into the tin.

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6

Bare wood:

Always follow the system recommendations as specified on the label; this will indicate the minimumnumber of coats required and the sanding recommendations between coats. This information will varydepending on the product. To achieve long-lasting protection, you should plan to apply up to ten coats(depending on the system). As the number of coats increases, sanding between coats with a fine grit paperwill increase the level of gloss and depth of luster.

Rusty Rutherford, Regional Sales Manager

“Achieve a perfect result every time!”


41

ApplicationApplying varnish with a brush is usually thebest method, although roller application can be effective on large, flat surfaces.

Brush out, using firm strokes along and thenacross the grain, holding the brush at 90º to the surface.

Finally, ‘tip off’ by gently stroking surface withthe brush at a 45º angle, following the grain.The brush you use should be used only forvarnishing.

PrimingWe recommend that the first coat of varnishapplied is thinned up to 15%-20%. This willpromote good penetration of the surface, andadhesion of subsequent coats. After the firstcoat has been applied, the surface will appearrough. This is a result of the exposed ends ofgrain absorbing the varnish and lifting. Sandsmooth with a 220 grit sandpaper and apply a second coat thinned 10%-15%.

Apply 2-3 thinned coats of varnish followinglabel recommendations.

Alternatively, prime using Clear Wood SealerFast Dry; a clear polyurethane primer withexcellent grain filling properties that willimprove overall scheme durability andaesthetics.

Bob DonatRegional Sales Manager

Hints and tips

n Keep the sandpaper clean and change it frequently.

n Sand by numbers, finishing the surface with aprogressively finer grit of paper.

n Varnishing is best achieved on warm, dry mornings –cold weather slows drying and damp spoils the gloss.

n Always use a clean brush, previously used only forvarnish.

n Always buy the highest quality varnish and brushavailable. This will ensure you achieve the mostattractive finish.

n Clean new brushes before use.

n Test the finish on a spare piece of wood beforeapplying to the boat.

n On large areas use a foam roller to apply the initial coat,followed immediately behind with a wide brush for thefinishing strokes – this is best done by two people.

n After cleaning with the correct thinners, wash thebrush in detergent and warm water, dry and wrap in greaseproof paper in a fine chisel shape.

n Alternatively, having cleaned and washed the brush,suspend by its handle to avoid any ‘fishtailing’ of thebristle.

n As the varnish ages in the can you may find there are lumps or contamination. Filtering the varnish into a separate container through cheesecloth, a paint filter or an old stocking is a good solution to thisproblem.

n Don’t use varnish which has been open for a longperiod as it will have picked up dust.

n Do not varnish wood when exposed to direct sunlight.

n Never leave bare wood exposed too long as it willabsorb moisture from the atmosphere.

Contents

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Boat Paint Guide



n Applying antifoulingAntifouling can be applied using a brush or roller. Using a small roller is less work onthe arm but takes longer to cover the surface area. If a brush is preferred, choose alarge width brush; the finish will not be as smooth as a topside paint so the type ofbrush used is not critical.

Colin AndersonSpecialist in Antifoulings Development

See Page 52 to check antifouling compatibility.



Preparation – in good conditionClean with Super Cleaner, followed by a highpressure fresh water wash, then allow to dry.Check for compatibility. Continue at Step 5.

1

3



Preparation – in poor conditionCompletely remove all antifouling paint with Interlux® Interstrip 299E for fiberglass or wood and bysandblasting steel surfaces to a near white metal.

See Page 30 for advice on removing existing antifoulings.

4

5

6

MaskingBefore priming or applying antifouling, mask off the area to be painted.

Repair/PrimingRepair damage with Watertite Epoxy Fillerwhere necessary. Inspect gelcoat for damageand signs of osmosis – treat accordingly.

Seal incompatible or unknown antifoulings with Primocon. Bare substrates should beprimed, according to substrate. Productrecommendations are provided on labels and data sheets. Remember to pay particularattention to drying times and overcoatingintervals.

See Page 69 for advice on osmosis treatment. See Page 26 for advice on repairing fiberglass.

For complete information on applying antifouling paint to bare fiberglass go to yachtpaint.com

44

ApplicationMix paint thoroughly with a stirring stick,ensuring that any settlement is mixed in. Apply according to label recommendations,using a brush or roller.

Apply the antifouling at the correct thickness; this may mean an extra coat isneeded, depending on application methods and conditions.

Apply an extra coat to leading and trailingedges; e.g. waterline, trim tabs, outdrives, keels and rudders. These areas experiencemore water turbulence and so more wear onthe paint surface.

Follow overcoating times and immersion times carefully. Failure to do this could result in detachment, blistering or cracking of theantifouling. The marine environment is harsh for paint so it must be allowed to drythoroughly before immersion.

Most antifoulings contain biocides so should be handled with care; ensure the correct personal protectiveequipment (PPE) is worn at all times.

Theresa Mermini, Customer Service Manager, North America

“Remember your PPE!”


Cont

ents

http://www.yachtpaint.com/Images/15_20622.pdf

‘Step-by-Step’

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Boat Paint Guide



n Painting outdrives, stern gear, propellers and keels

Outdrives and stern gear are usually constructed from aluminum. Propellers are usually bronze or aluminum. Keels are typically cast iron or lead. It’s important tochoose an antifouling that is hard, durable and suitable for these high wear areas and also one that is compatible with the substrate you are painting.

Brian WapleProduct Manager, North America

Once you’ve confirmed your substrate see Page 22 for substrate preparation information and follow this advicecarefully.

See Pages 54-57 for primer recommendations.



PrimingApply a primer recommended for the selectedantifouling and substrate; always follow the recommendations given on the productlabel.

1

3

4

2 PreparationThe key to protecting your underwater metals from corrosion is correctpreparation of the substrate and choosing the best priming solution for your project. Before commencing any preparation, it is important to establishthe type of metal you are working with.

Applying antifoulingApply the selected antifouling, following thelabel recommendations on film thickness,overcoating and immersions times carefully.

Not all antifoulings are suitable for application to bronze and aluminum, so it’s important to check compatibility whenselecting which antifouling product to use. See Pages 04-07 for antifouling product information.

Care should be taken not to paint zinc anodes, which are often located next to the prop shafts, as this will seriously reduce their effectiveness. When painting your outdrives, underwater metals and keels, the longevity of any antifouling is difficult to predict as coating adhesion can be an issue, particularly onpropellers. Thorough surface preparation is critical to promote good adhesion between the substrate and the coating.

Don Campbell, Technical Manager, North America

“Take care with zinc anodes!”


Contents

To prevent hull damageFouling can burrow into hull coatings, opening upthe surface and allowing water to come in contactwith unprotected metals and fiberglass. This cancause corrosion to metals and blisters in fiberglassthrough osmosis. These problems are expensiveand time consuming to repair.

Speed & EfficiencyFouling causes drag – drag reduces speed.Therefore, more fuel or energy is needed to drivethe boat through the water to maintain the samespeed. For racing boats this can make a bigdifference when competing. However, an increase in fuel consumption will not only cost more, but willalso have an environmental impact due to increasedair pollution.

Choosing an antifouling

You can very easily do a professional quality jobyourself, but you must bear in mind a few importantpoints. The type of antifouling you choose should betailored both to your boating style and to the foulingchallenges in your area. Different water qualitiesand temperatures produce different types andbreeds of fouling. Even in a small area thedifferences can be quite dramatic; affected byoutfalls, pollution, inflows from rivers and streams,the speed of flow of the water, tidal exchange,salinity and even shading from cliffs, trees andbuildings.

The Interlux antifouling rangeprovides protection from theTHREE key fouling challenges:

AnimalTwo types of animal fouling commonly attach toboat hulls. Hard-bodied animal fouling organisms,such as Barnacles, Zebra Mussels and Tubeworms,have a hard outer shell, can grow to a considerablesize, and exert a strong negative impact on boatperformance.

Soft-bodied animal fouling, such as Hydroids and Ascidians, lack a shell but are still difficult to remove and significantly increase drag.

WeedWeed requires light to grow and is normallyconfined to the sides of vessels, being particularlyprevalent at the waterline. The three types of weedfouling are characterised by their color, Green,Brown or Red. All types can be responsible forincreases in drag and loss of performance.

SlimeSlime consists of a collection of many differentspecies of single celled organisms that produce asyrupy medium in which to settle. It is present insome form on virtually every surface immersed inmarine and fresh water environments. Slime canvary in appearance from clear to dark brown orgreen depending on the species present and may,depending on composition, reduce the efficacy ofunderlying antifouling coatings. Slime is often noteasily removed by the motion of a hull through the water.

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Boat Paint Guide


The Complete Antifouling Guide

n What is antifouling?Antifouling is the most common (and arguably themost important) painting job carried out by boatowners. It is vital to protect your boat throughantifouling, as once fouling has a hold on your hull it will rapidly colonise the surface, making it difficult to remove.

Applying an antifouling paint will prevent theattachment of fouling organisms, such as barnacles,weeds and slime, to the hull of your boat – a fouledhull can cause serious problems, thereforeprevention is much better than cure.

How do antifoulings work?

Antifouling paints work by delivering a controlled,steady release of biocide (such as copper) from thepaint surface into the microscopic layer of waternext to the hull. It is this layer of biocide that stopsthe fouling from settling. Modern antifouling paintsare specifically formulated to release just the rightamount of biocide to keep the surface cleanthroughout the season, without the need to scrubyour boat.

How do we do this?It’s simple to control fouling, yet the process is a complex one! The paint must be formulated to release just enough biocide to stop fouling –but no more.

Why use an antifouling?

As active boaters, we are all concerned about howour activities may impact on the environment. Fuelconsumption and engine efficiency can contribute tosmog: waste tank discharge can pollute waters andboating in sensitive areas can affect the balance ofaquatic life. Fortunately, these effects can becontrolled and minimized, ensuring a clean, safeenvironment for all of us to enjoy our boatingpassion. By taking steps to minimize your potentialimpact on the marine environment, you cancontribute towards keeping it clean and safe for all of us to enjoy.

There are THREE key reasonsfouling growth should beprevented:

SafetyHeavy fouling growth will reduce the responsivenessof your boat as well as making it sit lower in thewater, due to the extra weight. Fouling can also grow unevenly across the bottom, throwing yourboat off balance, potentially making it dangerouslyuncontrollable. This can have serious implications in challenging weather conditions.

Contents

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51

Scrubbing your antifouling – the facts

A common misconception is that scrubbing thepaint surface to reveal a fresh layer of biocide willenhance the long term performance of the paint.This is not the case. Excessive or too frequentscrubbing can, in fact, dramatically shorten thelifetime of the paint.

Interlux antifouling paints are designed to performwith little or no maintenance. If the surface isrubbed away by regular cleaning, then a largeconcentration of biocide is released when some ofthe top layer is removed. The more you scrub, themore you can remove the paint film and the quickerthe paint can fail. This will become a constantsource of maintenance, as the more you scrub, the quicker the paint will fail, meaning you need to scrub again and more frequently and so on, and so on.

Constant scrubbing creates further issues. First, it releases more biocide into the water than the paint was designed to release. Second,underwater scrubbing also releases paint flakes and debris into the marine environment.

Talk to your local boatyard

Your local boatyard uses professional paintapplicators to apply antifouling paints. Theseapplicators are trained in the safe application andremoval of antifoulings. Your local boatyard can givegood advice on which antifoulings to choose for yourtype of boat (hard, polishing) and the performancestrength required for your boating environment.

Interlux® leads the way in innovative technology,providing effective long-lasting antifouling paintsthat minimize potential impacts to the environment.

The use of antifoulings in many countries is highlyregulated and all Interlux antifoulings are registeredand approved by the relevant authorities.

For more information on our products includingtechnical data, application information, features and benefits see the appropriate sections onyachtpaint.com.

The following table is a quick checklist summary for the responsible use of antifoulings.

n Responsible use of antifoulings

Antifouling Checklist

✓ Consult your local boatyard for advice onmaintaining your boat.

✓ Choose an antifouling appropriate for your boatingneeds (lifetime, performance etc) that requires little or no in-season maintenance.

✓ Avoid unnecessary frequent scrubbing of yourantifouling.

✓ Read the product label and follow H&S guidelines for personal protective equipment when applyingantifoulings.

✓ Use a registered antifouling paint.

✓ Apply the right amount of paint for the recommendedlifetime, even if this means putting on an extra coator re-applying after 1-2 years.

✓ Follow the correct overcoating and immersion timesof the antifouling.

✓ Collect and dispose of wash down water and paintscrapings as required by law. Contact your localauthority for advice on disposal methods.

✗ Do not discard cans or pour paint into water, use the facilities provided. It is best to use all of thepaint according to the label instructions or allowpaints to harden before disposal.

Did you know...Most antifoulings never release all the biocide inthe paint film. They are designed to release justthe right amount of biocide during the useful lifeof the paint to control fouling. At the end of thistime a proportion of the biocide is still lockedaway in the paint that is still left on the boat.This biocide was never designed to be released.Scrubbing the paint liberates this biocide,flushing the water with much more biocide than is necessary.

Boat Paint Guide

Polishingn Polishing action provides controlled biocide release for

long-term performance

n Wears away with use

n Reduced maintenance – minimal build-up reduces preparationtime

n Haul and relaunch without repainting

Hardn Hard, durable, season-long finish

n Resistant to abrasion and rubbing

n Suitable for fast craft and craft on dry moorings

n Scrubbable finish (see Page 51)

Thin Filmn Fluoro microadditive for super speed

n Ultra smooth, low-friction surface for performance boat owners,that:– Increases speed – Improves fuel efficiency– Reduces fuel consumption – Extends engine life– Minimizes paint build-up

SUBSTRATE PRIMERANTIFOULINGPAINT FILM

COPPERFLAKE

ANTIFOULINGPAINT FLAKE

CAVITIES INLEACHED LAYER

COPPER OXIDE

Helpline: 1 800 468-7589 Open Monday to Friday


Biolux® Technology‘Biolux Technology’ is a unique antifouling technology developed by Interlux. It consists of a system of organic boostingbiocides incorporated in a highly effectivecontrolled release film.

n Antifouling typesWe, at Interlux, manufacture a wide variety of antifoulings to meet all sorts of fouling challenges and often, more importantly, different boating styles. The following information will help you identify which ‘type’ ofantifouling is most suited to your needs.

50

Did you know...Copper as an antifouling biocide: Copper is an element.It is present throughout the natural world and it is an essentialmicronutrient that all living organisms need in order to survive.Indeed it is even present in small amounts in our drinking water,which occurs due to erosion of copper plumbing. All this isnormal. Copper can also be used to inhibit marine foulinggrowth. That is why it’s currently used in antifouling paint. In fact, copper has been used as an antifouling biocide forhundreds of years.

Contents

For more information see the Antifouling quick reference guide on Page 04.

The Complete

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and Prevention

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Topsides Guide

Troubleshooting

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Boat Paint Guide



n Is my new antifouling compatible?Once you’ve identified the Interlux antifouling that’s most suitable, if you have an existing coating on your hullyou will need to establish the compatibility of the two products. Use this simple table to check compatibilitybetween Interlux® antifoulings and also with competitor products.

Remove all paint●

Heavy sand & apply● Lightly sand & apply● Thoroughly sand & prime*●

See Removing antifouling on Page 30.

* Prime with Primocon YPA984. When overcoating TBT based antifoulings prime with TBT Sealer YPA987.** Power wash and scrub with a coarse Scotch-Brite® pad. Old antifouling must be well adhered.

Micron® 66® ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Micron® Extra

Micron® CSC● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Ultra ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

ACT

Fiberglass ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Bottomkote® NT

Fiberglass Bottomkote® Aqua

California Bottomkote® ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Epoxycop®

Pacifica

Pacifica Plus● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Trilux® 33® ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Trilux® Prop & Drive

Trilux® 33® Aerosol● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VC®17m Extra ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VC® Offshore

Baltoplate● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Bottomkote® Pro ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

New Antifouling Old Antifouling

Micron®

Optima, Micron®

Extra

Micron®

CSC, Trilux®

33®

Ultima, Awlstar®, Vivid

Micron®

66®

Micron®

44, M

icron®

33®

Alumacoat, B

iocop™

Trilux®

Prop & Drive, S

uper Ablative

ACT, Epoxycop®Ablative, H

orizons

CPP

®, P

acifica, P

acifica Plus

Ultra, Ultra-Kote®, Trilux

®, Biocop™

TF

Fiberglass Bottomkote

®, S

uper KL

Epoxycop®, C

alifornia Bottomkote

Trinidad SR, U

nepoxy

Bottom Pro Plus, Bottomshield

Sharkskin

Bottomkote

®

Tarr & Wonson

Biocop™ TF

VC

®Offshore

Baltoplate

or Vinyl Antifouling Paints

VC

®17m Extra

Fiberglass Bottomkote

®Aqua

Hydrocoat, A

quaguard

Monterey

Interstrip 299E: A paint stripper specially formulated for removing old or unknown antifoulings without damaging theunderlying substrate (including gelcoat).

Clean & apply**●

CPP®, Bottom Pro Plus and Bottomshield refer to products sold by West M

arine®.

Alum

acoat, Horizons, Hydrocoat, M

onterey, Sharkskin, Trinidad, Ultima, Unepoxy and Vivid refer to products sold by Kop-Coat.

Aquagard refers to a product sold by Flexdel. Biocop™

refers to a product sold by New Nautical Coatings. Awlstar®refers to a product sold by Awlgrip

®.

Scotch-Brite®is a tradem

ark of 3M.

53

1. Check for compatibility with old antifouling.If you know what antifouling is currently on yourboat, you can quickly determine whether yourInterlux paint choice is compatible.

2. Use Primocon YPA984 as a tie-coat primer.If you do not know what the old antifouling is on your boat, it is still easy. Apply our PrimoconYPA984 primer directly to the old antifouling. Then simply overcoat with the Interlux antifoulingof your choice. (Not compatible with VC®

Offshore, Baltoplate, VC17m, VC17m Extra or any water based paints.)

Applying your desired Interlux® antifouling has never been easier. Compatibility is always an issue boaters must worryabout, but there are 3 easy steps to solve this problem:

3. Remove old antifouling. If you would prefer to remove the old antifouling, we have the easysolution, Interlux Interstrip 299E paint remover. It’s compatible with your valuable fiberglass hull.Interstrip can remove several coats of paint in oneapplication. After stripping, you are ready to primeand paint your newly cleaned hull.

n How much antifouling paint do I need?Determining how much antifouling you will need is fairly simple. Here are two quick guides to help you purchasethe correct amount:

1. Calculate the area needing paint. For a rough estimate of the area to be painted, multiply the length of your hull(LOA) by the beam and multiply by 0.85 (LOA x B x 0.85 = Area). Then divide the area by the coverage of thepaint you’ve chosen to determine how many quarts per coat you will need, or

2. Refer to the reference chart below for a quick estimate of how much antifouling paint is required for two coats:

Important: Now that you’ve stripped yourhull, it is important to inspect for any gelcoatdamage before repainting. Also, consider applyingthe InterProtect® System to give your hull a barriercoat to protect from gelcoat blistering.

Waterline length (feet)

Standard range (quarts)

VC17m/VC17m Extra (quarts)

Power Sail

4.0 5.0 7.0 9.5 12.0 3.0 4.0 5.5 7.0 9.5

3.0 4.0 5.5 7.5 9.5 2.5 3.0 4.5 5.5 7.5

20 25 30 35 40 20 25 30 35 40

Abbreviations

LOA = Length Overall

LWL = Length Waterline

B = Beam

D = Draft

F = Freeboard

Top Tips

n Apply an extra coat to all leading and trailing edges,water-line, trim-tabs, outdrives, keel and rudder. High turbulence in these areas tends to wear theantifouling faster.

n Always use the specified amount of antifouling. Under-application can result in premature fouling and costly mid-season haul out.

Contents

n Below water systems: one-part productsThese systems provide a good level of protection.

Fiberglass: No sand system

Aluminum

Primer (1 coat)Fiberglass No Sand

Primer YPA200

Wood

Iron/Steel

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55

Filler

If required for small areas, Watertite Fillershould be applied after the first coat ofInterProtect 2000E.

Boat Paint GuideThe Complete Antifouling Guide


n Below water systems: two-part productsThese systems provide the maximum level of protection.

Fiberglass: Barrier protection

Primer(5 coats)

InterProtect® 2000E

Antifouling(2-3 coats)

Interlux® Antifouling

Aluminum

Antifouling (2-3 coats)Interlux® Antifouling

Fiberglass: Ultimate no sand system

Iron/Steel

LeadFiller

If required for small areas, Watertite Fillershould be applied after the first coat ofInterProtect® 2000E.

Primer (5 coats)InterProtect® 2000E

Surface Primer (1 coat)Viny-Lux Primewash

(1 coat thinned 25% with 355 Thinner)


Primer (1 coat)InterProtect® 2000E

CleanFiberglass Surface

Prep YMA601

Antifouling (2-3 coats)Interlux® Antifouling*

*excluding VC®17m, VC®17m Extra, VC® Offshore, Baltoplate & VC® Performance EpoxyThis system will not provide blister protection

*If necessary, fill seams with Seam Compound 30between first and second coat of antifouling

Lead

Primer (5 coats)Primocon













Surface Primer (1 coat)Viny-Lux Primewash(1 coat thinned 10-15%

with 216 Thinner)






Antifouling (2 coats)Interlux Antifouling*(Thin first coat 10-15%

with appropriate thinner)

Primer (1 coat)

See substrate preparation on Page 22. See substrate preparation on Page 22.

Important: If you own an aluminum boat, only apply antifouling paints specificallyrecommended for aluminum to preventcorrosion. Never apply products containingCuprous Oxide to aluminum.

Important: If you own an aluminum boat, only apply antifouling paints specificallyrecommended for aluminum to preventcorrosion. Never apply products containingCuprous Oxide to aluminum.

Contents

n Propellers, outdrives and sterngearOutdrives are built out of aluminum. This presents compatibility issues with cuprous-oxide containingantifoulings. Propellers are typically made with aluminum, bronze or stainless steel.

Aluminum

Antifouling(3 coats)

Trilux® 33 Aerosol

Bronze



Stainless Steel

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See Painting outdrives, stern gear, propellers and keels on Page 46.

See substrate preparation on Page 22.

Boat Paint GuideThe Complete Antifouling Guide


n Below water systems: No sand systemsFiberglass: Ultimate no sand systemFiberglass: No sand system

Primer (1 coat)Fiberglass No Sand

Primer YPA200


Fiberglass: Simple no sand system

Filler

If required for small areas, Watertite Fillershould be applied after the first coat ofVC® Tar2.

See osmosis protection systems on Page 68.

Primer (2-3 coats)Primocon Aerosol

Antifouling(3 coats)Trilux® 33

(or Interlux Hard Antifouling)



Primer (3-4 coats)InterProtect® 2000E

Antifouling(3 coats)Trilux® 33

(or Interlux Hard Antifouling)



Primer (3-4 coats)InterProtect® 2000E

Primer (1 coat)InterProtect® 2000E


Prep YMA601

Antifouling (2-3 coats)Interlux® Antifouling*


Prep YMA601

Antifouling (2-3 coats)Fiberglass Bottomkote® Aqua*

**This system is only approved to be used with FiberglassBottomkote Aqua. Do not use this system with any other antifoulingpaint. For complete instructions on this or any of the no sandsystems contact Interlux at yachtpaint.com or 1-800-468-7589

*excluding VC®17m, VC®17m Extra, VC® Offshore, Baltoplate & VC® Performance EpoxyThis system will not provide blister protection

Contents

See Page 32 for advice on Applying finishes.

Blister Repair

and Prevention

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59

To test if an existing topside paint product, or a varnish, is compatiblewith our two-part polyurethane products; tape a cloth soaked in ThinnersNo.9 to the previously painted substrate for 24 hours. If the surface issoftened, it is probably not compatible. In this instance, unless strippingdown to the bare substrate is an option, a one-part product should beapplied.

n Testing for compatibility

Applying by brush

Use the largest brush possible. Long flexible bristles are best for gloss paints. When applying by brush a goodtechnique is the ‘Criss-Cross’ method. Paint is applied to the surface with a diagonal brushing action from theleft and right (1). This is then spread further with horizontal strokes (2) before finally ‘laying off’ with lightvertical strokes (3). This results in any brush marks being able to flow out to give the best possible finish.

Applying with roller and brush

Our products are formulated so that a great gloss finish can be obtainedthrough application with a solvent resistant, high density/closed cell foam roller and good quality China Bristle Brush. This will minimize theformation of bubbles in the surface that can occur with mohair and largecell foam rollers. The paint applied will be thinner and so more coats maybe required. The roller is used to apply paint to the surface and the pad orbrush is used to create a smooth surface by ‘tipping off’. This worksparticularly well when two painters work side by side.

While many traditional painters will apply topside finishes by tipping off horizontally, the diagram above will yield a better result for most ‘Do It Yourselvers’, as it helps reduce brush marks.

Always test your choice of application method, to establish if it provides the finish you require.

n Application techniques1 2 3

Boat Paint Guide


The Complete Topsides Guide

Apart from providing an enhanced cosmetic finish to your boat, paints provide a protective barrieragainst the elements that will attack the surfaceduring the season: sea, rain, wind and sun.

Does the substrate determine product choice?

Modern construction methods using fiberglass, steel and aluminum provide a stable, rigid surfacecompatible with all types of finish products. However,if your boat is made of wood, the characteristics ofthe substrate and the construction method used willhave a bearing on the product you choose.

Carvel and clinker (or lapstrake) constructions areflexible in nature; the wood tends to move as themoisture content varies. Hard systems, such astwo-part polyurethanes, cannot sufficiently flex toaccommodate this movement making them likely to crack – therefore, these should be avoided, infavor of a one-part system, as these are suitable for all wood constructions.

Two-part systems, such as Perfection, are moresuited to the highly stable constructions of doublediagonal planking, cold or hot molded veneers andstrip planking where epoxy or Resorcinol typeadhesives have been used.

What about areas of high wear and tear?

Areas where there is considerable foot traffic orharsh abrasion, such as gunwale rails and coamingsides, will need frequent repair to keep them inpristine condition.

While a two-part system, such as Perfection, offersexcellent resistance to abrasion, even this can stillwear through in excessive circumstances. Using aone-part system, such as Brightside, on these areas will make it easier to touch up any areas ofdamage, should this be required outside of standardmaintenance intervals.

What preparation is necessary?

The most critical aspect of any painting job ispreparation. Poor surface preparation will alwaysshow through the final coat; this will reduce theeffectiveness of the coating system and canpotentially lead to the premature failure andseparation of the coating from the substrate. As a guide, you should be aware that you will need to spend up to 80% of your time onpreparation and priming, in order to achieve a first class finish of which you can be proud.

n Working with finishes

Clinker or carvel construction?Carvel built wooden boats and tall ships aremade by fixing planks to a frame so the planksbutt up against one another. In Clinker building(or lapstrake) hulls the planks overlap alongtheir edges. In a Carvel construction a smoothhull is created, that is stronger than a clinkerbuilt hull. However more caulking is requiredbetween the joints in carvel than in a clinkerconstruction. The framing gives a carvel construction astronger hull, meaning it can carry a full sailplan, and can have a longer and broader hull. Clinker built vessels are lighter because theyhave less internal framing, meaning they move faster because they displace less water. Clinker vessels are less rigid then carvelconstructions; this limits the type of sailing rigs the vessel can take.

Clinker construction

Carvel construction

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n One-part conventional paint systemsThese systems provide a good level of protection.

Filler

If required for small areas, Watertite Fillershould be applied after the first coat of Primer.

Boat Paint GuideThe Complete Topsides Guide


n Two-part premium paint systemsThese systems provide the maximum level of protection available.

Fiberglass

Undercoat (1-2 coats) Epoxy Primekote

Topcoat (2-3 coats)Perfection®

Steel

Primer (2-3 coats)InterProtect® 2000E*

Undercoat (1-2 coats)Epoxy Primekote


Fiberglass

Undercoat (1-2 coats) Pre-Kote

Topcoat (2-3 coats)Brightside®

Steel

* First coat thinned 10-15% with 2316N Thinner

Surface Primer (1 coat)Viny-Lux® Primewash

(Thinned 25% with 355 thinner)



Wood

Undercoat (2 coats)Epoxy Primekote


Aluminum



Undercoat (2 coats)Epoxy Primekote


Aluminum





Wood



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See Page 40 for advice on Applying varnishes and Test for compatibility on Page 59.

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Hints and tips

n Round the edges of any scrapers with a file to avoidgouging.

n Keep the sandpaper clean and change it frequently.

n Sand by numbers, finishing the surface with aprogressively finer grit of paper.

n Varnishing is best achieved on warm, dry mornings– cold weather slows drying and moisture spoils thegloss.

n Always use a clean brush, previously used only forvarnish.

n Always buy the highest quality varnish and brushavailable. This will ensure you achieve the mostattractive finish.

n Clean new brushes before use.

n Test the finish on a spare piece of wood before applying to the boat.

n On large areas use a foam roller to apply the initialcoat, followed immediately behind with a wide brushfor the finishing strokes – this is best done by twopeople.

n After cleaning with the correct thinners, wash thebrush in detergent and warm water, dry and wrap in greaseproof paper in a fine chisel shape.

n Alternatively, having cleaned and washed the brush,suspend by its handle to avoid any ‘fishtailing’ of thebristle.

n As the varnish ages in the can you may find there arelumps or contamination. Sieving the varnish into aseparate container through cheesecloth, a paint filteror an old stocking is a good solution to this problem.

n Never apply direct from the can, as this willintroduce contamination.

n Always pour the amount of varnish that you expect to use at any one time, into a separate container.

n Don’t use varnish which has been open for a longperiod as it will have picked up dust.

n Do not varnish wood when exposed to direct sunlight.

n Never leave bare wood exposed too long as it willabsorb moisture from the atmosphere.



Wood has a beauty of its own that a good varnishshould enhance, as well as protect. Most varnishesare designed to protect against man-made damageincluding oil, detergent and alcohol spills. However,yacht varnishes also need to provide a protectivebarrier against the natural elements: Sea, wind, rainand UV radiation from the sun will attack exposedsurfaces. In paint products, some protection isoffered from the color pigments used in the paintformulation. However, in clear varnishes no pigmentexists.

What’s in a varnish?

Varnishes have always been considered amysterious blend of black art and science, but inreality there are only five main ingredients in a topquality marine varnish – oil, resin, solvent, driersand additives. The trend in modern varnishtechnology, that most affects the long-termdurability of a varnish, is the inclusion of additivesspecifically designed to combat the harmful effectsof UV energy, i.e. sunlight.

High performance varnishes from Interlux –Perfection Plus, Schooner Gold and Compass –contain a blend of premium quality UV absorbers and Hindered Amine Light Stabilizers (HALS), as well

as UV protectors, to extend the lifespan of the varnishcoating beyond that of conventional products.

UV protection

In addition to UV absorbers and HALS, Interlux usestwo additional additives to help protect the surfacefrom UV damage – Surface Stabilizers andAntioxidants. Surface Stabilizers repair damagefrom UV light by pulling together the polymer (orresin) segments at the coating’s surface, keepingthe surface layer stabilized, meaning color andgloss are maintained.

Antioxidants are used to combat photo-degradationand oxidization. This also helps with color stability,by keeping the varnish from fading or becomingcloudy.

Which varnish should I choose?

The substrate and construction method of the areayou’re varnishing will affect your choice of coating.Two-part systems – such as Perfection Plus – arenot suitable for application to flexible constructions.See page 58 for more information on selectingproducts according to substrate.

Areas where there is considerable foot traffic or harsh abrasion, such as gunwale rails and

coaming sides, will need frequent repair to keep them in pristine condition. While the two-part,Perfection Plus systems offer excellent resistance toabrasion they can still wear through in excessivecircumstances. As conventional and premium one-part systems are considerably easier to touch in andmake good than the harder two-part systems, theyare more suitable for these areas.

What preparation is needed?

If you’re applying over an existing varnish, ensurethe surface is sound, if not the coating should beremoved. Test for compatibility – see page 59.

For bare wood, unless you’re using a clear surfaceprimer, such as Interlux Clear Wood Sealer Fast Dry,we recommend thinning the first coat of all ourvarnishes. This promotes good penetration of thesurface and adhesion of subsequent coats. Afterthis first coat, the surface will appear rough – asthe exposed ends of the wood absorb the varnishand lift – sand this smooth with a medium gritsandpaper.

How do I get the best results?

Applying varnish with a brush is usually the bestmethod, although roller application can be effectiveon large, flat surfaces. Brush out the varnish withfirm strokes, along the grain, holding the brush at90° to the surface. Then ‘tip-off’ by gently strokingthe surface with the brush at 45°, following thegrain. Always follow the minimum coatrecommendations – however for long-lastingprotection you can apply additional coats,depending on the system. As the number of coatsincreases, sanding in between each coat willincrease the level of gloss and depth of luster.

n Varnishes

What are UV Absorbers and HALS?

UV Absorbers soak up detrimental UV rays from sunlight, converting them into heat, which is thendissipated through the surface of the coating (1).

Hindered Amine Light Stabilizers (HALS) do not absorb radiation; instead they protect the coating resinfrom the harmful effect of photochemically-produced ‘free radicals’ by neutralizing them, hindering chemicaldegradation. HALS regenerate themselves during the neutralization process, so go on providing protectionthroughout the lifetime of the coating (2-4).

The sun’s rays produce harmfulfree radicals (red)

UV absorbers convert UVenergy into heat energy

The HALS (white) attachthemselves to the free radicals,neutralizing them

The HALS regenerate as theneutralized free radicals arereleased

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Oily woods

Hard woods such as Teak and Iroko, that are oily bynature, must be degreased adequately with the correctsolvent prior to the application of a first thinned coat ofvarnish.

How much topside paint do I need?

Determining how much paint you will need is fairly simple. To determine how much topside paint you willneed, refer to the reference chart below:

Key attributes

Marine Light Natural Teak Gloss

n Sikkens® Cetol® Marine

n Cetol Marine produces an attractive dark amber appearance on wood.

n Cetol Marine Light will produce a lighter amber appearance on wood.

n Cetol Marine Natural Teak has a rich golden color on wood.

n Cetol Marine Gloss provides a high gloss, hard wearing, UV protection and aneasy to clean finish and is developed as a topcoat for Cetol Marine, Cetol MarineLight and Cetol Marine Natural Teak for whenever a gloss finish is desired. Do not use on decks.

Waterline length (feet)

2 part products (quarts)

1 part enamels (quarts)

1 part primers (quarts)

Power Sail

2.0 3.0 4.0 5.5 6.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0

3.0 4.5 6.0 8.0 9.0

4.0 5.5 7.5 10.0 11.0

2.5 4.0 5.5 7.0 8.5

3.0 5.0 7.0 9.0 10.5

20 25 30 35 40 20 25 30 35 40

Cetol® Marine with Next Wave™ UV-absorbing technology is adurable, low maintenance translucent protective wood finish foruse above the waterline on interior and exterior woods. NextWave technology is the next generation of Cetol Marine fromSikkens with a unique UV package of advanced ultra violetabsorbers that provide greater protection, durability andlongevity. Cetol Marine has excellent weathering properties andis flexible allowing for the natural expansion and contraction ofwood. Cetol Marine has been specially formulated with one goalin mind to protect wood and keep it looking beautiful.

n Two-part premium varnish systemsTraditional bare wood system

Primer(1 thinned coat)

Perfection® Plus

Varnish (4 coats min.)Perfection® Plus

Reduced work time bare wood system

Primer(1 thinned + 3 full coats)

Clear Wood Sealer

Varnish (2 coats min.)Perfection® Plus

n One part conventionalvarnish system

n Sikkens® Cetol®

Marine System

Primer(2 thinned coats)

Schooner® Gold(Compass, Original, Goldspar Satin;

1 thinned coat)

Varnish (4-6 coats)Schooner® Gold

(Compass; 3-5 coatsOriginal, Goldspar Satin;

3 coats min.)

Primer (2-3 coats)Cetol®

(Cetol Marine, Cetol Marine Light, Cetol Marine Natural Teak)

Varnish (2-3 coats)Cetol® Gloss

(Apply only if a gloss finish is desired. Do not use Cetol Marine Gloss

on decks.)

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Blister Repair and Prevention

Osmosis is a process of degeneration within a fiberglass laminate. It is caused by a chemicalreaction between water and unreacted substancesremaining in the substrate, post manufacture. Typically, water enters the hull substrate throughthe gelcoat and, once inside, reacts with thechemical components to form acidic substances.These substances create pressure behind thegelcoat, which causes blisters and eventuallycracking. Once the gelcoat is breached in thismanner, the underlying laminate is capable ofabsorbing water like a sponge.

Osmosis is not only caused by water on the outsideof the hull – bilge water from the inside can alsocause a problem. It is therefore worth makingefforts to keep your bilges dry.

When might osmosis occur?

Any unprotected hull is likely to show signs ofosmosis eventually, rather like rust on a car.

The exact length of time before osmosis occursdepends on many factors, including: the type ofwater in which the hull is moored, the temperature

of the water and most importantly, the quality of theoriginal hull construction.

In some cases, reactive impurities in the gelcoat andlaminate will cause osmosis in the early life of aboat. This is a structural problem and should bereferred back to the boat manufacturer. However,even well-built, fiberglass hulls will eventuallyexperience osmosis and blistering. This is why werecommend applying an epoxy protection layer, evento new boats.

n What is osmosis?

n How to protect against osmosisProtection is always better than cure and it reallydoes make sense to protect a new boat as well as an older craft. To achieve this protection it isnecessary to sheath the hull with a water barrier to seal the surface. This is done over the existinggelcoat. There is no better time to apply an anti-osmosis system than before the boat has beenlaunched. Some boat builders now apply theInterlux InterProtect® system as part of theirproduction process, so it is worth finding out if this is the case. However, it must be stressed thatprotective systems cannot stop osmosis once it has started, or prevent it from occurring in poorlyconstructed hulls. Therefore, it is important that afull inspection is undertaken before starting.

Important: The application of an osmosisprotection system could protect against seriousand costly structural problems in the later lifeof your hull.


For further information on osmosis and other warning signs, see Pages 68-69.

Look out for any warning signs that may suggest that water has entered the laminate or that osmosis may have occurred.

If your hull is new, proceed to Step 4.


PreparationRemove all contamination from the surfaceusing Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 orFiberglass Surface Prep YMA601. Sand using80-grit sandpaper. Remove the sanding residueusing Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202

InspectionInspect the gelcoat for signs of damage orcracking. Small defects can be repaired withWatertite Epoxy Filler following the instructionson the product label.

If more extensive damage is found or suspected we recommend that you seek the advice of aprofessional surveyor before continuing.

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ApplicationApply InterProtect 2000E, building up to minimumdry film thickness of 10 mils (this will typicallytake 5 coats) using a brush or roller. For ease,alternate between the gray and white shades.

For complete instructions for applyingInterProtect® 2000E call 1-800-468-7589 to obtain a copy of the InterProtect guide.

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The main symptom – blisters

Blisters are the most common warning sign and if identified should be followed up with immediateprofessional examination. Blisters can vary fromsmall pinhead blisters, to areas as large as the palmof a hand. The presence of any fluid behind a blisterindicates a potential problem. If the fluid has apungent, vinegary odor or feels greasy or stickywhen rubbed between the thumb and forefinger,

there is a high probability of osmosis. Before anytreatment is carried out, you need to establish whathas caused the problem. We recommend that youseek the advice of a professional surveyor.

Some blisters occur for reasons other than osmosis.They are often evident as a rash of small pinheadblisters or swellings, either locally (often around thewater-line) or over the entire underwater area.These blisters are hard and difficult to break andwhen broken open will be dry, with no odor evident.The likely cause is air voids. This is not a seriousproblem, but hull moisture levels should be checkedbefore commencement of any remedial treatment.

n How to recognize osmosis

Other warning signs to look for

Prominent fibersSeen protruding beneath or through the gelcoatand can cause ‘wicking’ where water is drawninto the hull by capillary action.

Star crazingThis effect can occur where the gelcoat is brittle.Fine cracks usually form due to severe flexing or impact damage, allowing water to seep into the laminate. Pinholes

Tiny bubbles present in the gelcoat reduce itseffectiveness and promote rapid water absorption.

Undercuring of the gelcoatIncorrect mixing or application in unsuitableconditions can cause failure to cure properly. This results in porosity and may lead to wateringress.

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Blister Repair and Prevention

n Blister protection systemsFiberglass: InterProtect® Fiberglass: InterProtect® Low VOC

Proper preparation of the gelcoatThis includes getting all of the antifouling

paint and primers off and removal of as muchgelcoat as necessary to get the hull dry (i.e. theentire gelcoat or just small areas). A professional,who has looked at your boat, should make thisdetermination.

Drying of the hullThis is the most critical step in the process.

If you do not get the hull dry it will re-blister. We recommend a comprehensive washing anddrying procedure.

Application of Epiglass®

Epiglass is a solventless epoxy used to sealup the laminate and fill any cloth that has beenvoided of resin.

Application of InterProtect® 2000EInterProtect 2000E provides a water barrier to

minimize the possibility of reoccurrence of damageand will act as a tie-coat to the antifouling. Contactour Technical Help Desk to obtain a copy of theInterProtect Bulletin 900.

n How to treat osmosis1

2

3

4

Epiglass®

n A high build, solventlessepoxy resin for gelcoatblister repairs andrelaminating

n Contains no harmfulsolvents to migrate into the hull and causereblistering

n It is compatible with InterProtect 2000E and InterProtect 3000

n Has three hardeners to meet your schedule or accommodate weather conditions

InterProtect®2000En For prevention and repair of gelcoat blistering

n Excellent for use on nderwater metals, hullsand keels

n Easy to apply – dries quickly – no sandingn Use as part of a no sand systemn Excellent anti-corrosive protection above & below the waterline



Tie-Coat (1 coat)InterProtect® 2000VOC




Primer (3 coats min.)InterProtect® 3000

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Troubleshooting Guide

n Common problems and how to avoid themThe following troubleshooting guide is aimed at helping you identify some of the common problems associatedwith boat painting and providing you with information to avoid these occurring. This guide is by no meansexhaustive – should you encounter a problem that you cannot diagnose, please contact the Helpline for furtherassistance.

Adhesion Failure (also referred to as Flaking of Paint/

Delamination)

Avoid this by: Ensuring that the surface is clean,dry and free from contamination and has beensuitably prepared according to the paint specification.Oily woods, such as teak and iroko, should bedegreased with a solvent prior to varnishing. Be sure to follow the overcoating intervals betweencoats of paint.

Bittiness

Avoid this by: The correct preparation of thesurface. Always clean before sanding and removesanding residue from the surface before applyingthe next coat of paint. Ensure that the surface is not contaminated during the curing phase.

Blistering

Avoid this by: Ensuring that correct overcoatinginterval is followed to avoid solvent entrapment andother contamination. In immersed conditions theblistering could be osmosis.

Blushing

Avoid this by: Ensuring that the painted surfacehas not been exposed to moisture or condensationduring the latter stages of drying and that thesolvent blend is correct. This phenomenon is oftenseen with amine cured epoxies.

Brush Marks

Avoid this by: Thinning your paint to the correctviscosity and ensuring that it is adequately mixedbefore applying. For two-part paints use the mixedproduct within the pot life stated on the productdatasheet.

Fouling

Avoid this by: Ensuring that you have appliedthe correct amount of antifouling, as indicated onthe product datasheet. Ensure that the antifoulingstrength of the product used is suitable for the waters in which the boat is moored andnavigates.

See Blister Prevention on Page 66.


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Crazing

Avoid this by: Refraining from using strongsolvents on conventional coatings, as they willpenetrate and soften the surface causing crazing to occur.

Darkening of Wood

Avoid this by: Ensuring that the end grain ofyour timber is sealed to avoid water penetrationunder the varnish layer. This will cause theunderlying wood to darken.

Cissing

Avoid this by: Thoroughly cleaning the surfaceand ensuring that is clear of wax, grease andperspiration (from your hands) prior to theapplication of the first coat of paint.

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n Painting & project diaryUse this space to keep a record of any projects undertaken, so you have your product information to hand, when you need to touch-up or reapply.

Project 1

Date

Products used

Other remarks:

Color CodeBatch # No of coats

Preparation work

Weather (conditions, temperature, humidity)

Quantity

Color CodeBatch # No of coatsQuantity

Color CodeBatch # No of coatsQuantity

Project 2

Date

Products used

Other remarks:

Preparation work


Project 3

Date

Products used

Other remarks:

Preparation work


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Topside Finishes

Helpline: 1 800 468-7589 Open Monday to Friday

Color Card

s FOR USE WITH ONE-PART FINISHES ss FOR USE WITH TWO-PART FINISHES (Perfection)

Perfection®Ultimate Performance, Two-Part Polyurethane Finish

Flattening AgentFor One and Two-Part Finishes

YMA715 s

YZM914 ss

Before After

Snow WhiteYHB000

Mediterranean White YHA184

Off WhiteYHA192

PlatinumYHA183

CreamYHS070

Fighting Lady YellowYHS056

Rochelle RedYHS299

Oyster WhiteYHA194

Matterhorn WhiteYHA198

Arctic WhiteYHS248

Pearl WhiteYHS253

Jade Mist GreenYHB663

Mauritius BlueYHF991

Flag BlueYHK990

Royal BlueYHA216

Lauderdale BlueYHS936

Jet BlackYHY999

Brightside®Hard, High Gloss, One-Part Polyurethane Finish

Blue-Glo White4259

White4359

● Off-White4381

Matterhorn White4360

Seattle Gray4205

Kingston Gray4190

Steel Gray4250

Black4258

● Light Blue4351

Medium Blue4353

Largo Blue4100

Ocean Blue4253 (C.C. Blue)

Sapphire Blue4241

Dark Blue4316

Flag Blue4990

●

Sundown Buff4237

Grand Banks Beige4217

Bristol Beige4207

Hatteras Off-White4208

Sea Green4247

Fire Red4248

● Yellow4152

Hatteras Off-White (1990)4218

● Also available as Brightside® Boottop & Striping Enamel

GreyYJF684

WhiteYJB000

CreamYJC089

BeigeYJG090

Squall BlueYJB923

While every care is taken to match colors on this card, the manufacturers cannot be responsible for slight variations.Products mentioned in this document are trademarks of, or licensed to, AkzoNobel. © Akzo Nobel N.V. 2009.

Hatteras Off-White108

Gunmetal Gray232

High Gloss White1

Semi Gloss White220

Flat White242

Yacht EnamelTraditional Alkyd-Based Marine Enamel

White YMA102

Gray YMA100

Bilgekote®Hard Wearing for Bilges and Bulkheads

C.C. Red Mahogany573

Brown Mahogany42

Red Mahogany1579

InterstainPaste Wood Filler Stain

InterdeckSlip Resistant Polyurethane Deck Paint

74 75

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Antifoulings Color Card

Red YBA472 Black YBA473

Blue YBA470 Green YBA471

Red 5582 Black 5583

Blue 5580 Green 5581 Shark White 5584

Red 5692 (5792) Black 5693 (5793)

Dark Blue 5696* Blue 5690 (5790)

Shark White 5694* Brown 5695*Green 5691 (5791)

Red 4490b Black 7790b

Dark Blue 6696b Blue 6690b

Gray White 7740b Brown 8890b

Green 5590b

Micron 66®

Best Antifouling

Micron® Extra / Micron® Extra VOC

Controlled Polishing

Micron® CSC

Proven Performance

Red YBA407 Blue YBA406

Original YBA405

Red V117 Black V118

Blue V116 Baltoplate Metallic Gray R3950

VC®17m Extra

Thin Film / Fast Finish

VC® Offshore

Low Friction Finish

Polishing Antifoulings

Low Friction for Super Speed

ACT

Best Value Ablative

* Colors not available in California. Micron Extra VOC codes in brackets

Ultra

Ultra Strong

Red 3449F Black 3779F

Blue 3669F Green 3559F

Hard Antifoulings Specialty

Fiberglass Bottomkote®Aqua

Solid Protection

Red YBA549 Black YBA579

Blue YBA569

While every care is taken to match colors on this card, the manufacturers cannot be responsible for slight variations.

Trilux 33® /Trilux 33® Aerosol

Bright Colors

Red YBA062 Black YBA063(YBA063A)

Blue YBA060 Green YBA061

White YBA068(YBA068A)

Red YBB262 Black YBB263

Blue YBB260

Pacifica Plus

Copper-Free

Econea™ is a trademark of Johnson & Johnson

Aerosol code in brackets

Trilux® Prop & Drive

Aerosol Antifouling

Gray 5495A Clear 5499A

Product information can be found at yachtpaint.com

Fiberglass Bottomkote®Classic

All-Purpose Protection

Red YBB449 Black YBB779

Blue YBB669 Green YBB559 Bronze 999


Contents

The answers are only a click away at yachtpaint.com

Our new look Boat Paint Guide & Color Card has been designed with you – the customer – in mind, to make it as easy as possible to choose the right product for your project. If you’d like more information onour products, systems, surface preparation or simply need some expert advice on painting and maintainingyour boat, please visit our website. Check out our ‘How To’ guides for simple step-by-step information andhandy hints and tips to ensure you achieve professional results, every time!

Jim Seidel, Assistant Marketing Manager

“Visit our website for even more expert advice.”

Interlux Yacht Finishes2270 Morris Avenue, Union NJ 07083Tel: 1 908 686-1300Fax: 1 908 686-8545Technical Service: 1 800 468-7589E-mail: [email protected]

All statements, technical information and recommendations contained in this publication are based on tests and working practice believed to be reliable, but their accuracy and/or completeness is not guaranteed.The user shall determine the suitability of the products for his/her particular purpose and shall assume allrisk and liability herewith.

®, Interlux®, the AkzoNobel logo and all product namesmentioned in this publication are trademarks of, or licensedto, AkzoNobel.

Our World is Water

© Akzo Nobel N.V. 2009 Printed in the UK BPG10


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