Birding Report for Bali

27th

February – 12th

March 2012

Paul A Brown

Sanur, Bali This is the next instalment of birding around the world on a relative shoe-string and with a non-birding wife! I am always keen to find a scenic, relaxed and not too noisy beach resort with cultural interest for Ros and some good local birding for myself. This year we chose Bali but we were aware that the weather might be a little changeable, it being their wetter summertime season. This may have been why I did not see certain species which are easier at other times of the year. As always with our world trips, we look for cheap deals and we found a two week all inclusive package through Mercury Direct to Hotel Diwangkara in Sanur which proved very cheap at £2425 for two, for two weeks and the Hotel was very comfortable with free ‘Bali Hi’ beer. The total money spent was £2850 between the two of us. The exchange rate was c.14000 Indonesian Rupiah to the £. Beware on entry at Bali, that you need to buy a visa for c.£17.50 each and in U. S. Dollars and there is also a leaving tax of c.£11 each as well. The gardens were well stocked with flowering plant and trees but but from our ground floor rooms there were no extensive views for the telescope to be used so no ‘bird tree’ to watch. The third floor rooms provide a much better view for the telescope. Another small drawback was that the ground floor verandas were very public so that it seemed rude to read, write use binoculars or telescope and keep one’s own company when neighbours were there. We moved to a more private room for the second week where I could feed the Bulbuls with fruit without being accused of attracting vermin to our neighbour’s room! I soon learnt that the Hindu food offerings were a good lure for birds. From home we hired in advance the services of the birdguide, Herykusuma Negara (“Hery”), hery_kn@yahoo.co.id telephone +62 813 3807 8010, who works at Bali Barat (the best nature reserve on Bali), for a day’s birding there. He charged c.£150 for the day, hire of a car and driver to and from Bali Barat and a boat. We hired him midway through the holiday so

that I had the chance to acquaint myself with the common species and so as to use his time most effectively to target my wants list. After discussion with our Mercury Direct rep ‘Sri’ at our Hotel, we decided to use the services of her contact, Ketut Darma who is a driver and tour guide with good knowledge of English too (ketut.darma72@yahoo.com). We were able to discuss with him where he would drop me off at birding sites and to take Ros on to more interesting non-birdy cultural and scenic places. We did not take any malarial drugs as Bali is considered relatively malaria free (unlike Lombok next door). In Sanur, there was a notice saying “insect free beach!” and I soon found out why as they regularly fogged the hotel gardens with insecticide. There were a few butterflies, dragonflies, wasps and cockroaches that survived as did the resident geckos and frogs but the latter seemed to have little to feed on as the hotel lights brought hardly any moths in. There are still many dogs in Bali (even after a massive cull of the feral population) and there is still a rabies threat so one should keep away from dogs both tame and wild as much as possible. There were dog packs roaming but they never took much interest in this very populated area. The birds likewise were relatively tame too.

Diary of the trip

Sunday 26th February 2012 We flew from Heathrow at 10.30am on Air Malaysia flight MH3 to Kuala Lumpur and flew out over Minsmere (a regular and favourite haunt of mine), across a sunny northern Europe and a snow covered Ukraine and then a very short night.

Monday 27th February 2012 We arrived at Kuala Lumpur at 6.45 am Malaysian time after the 12 hour flight and had a two hour wait for the next flight. I watched the dawn over the airport and noticed a number of the usual House Crows, Common Mynas and distant swifts were probable Brown Backed Needletails. There were also a few Pacific Swallows and looking very similar to little Swifts were a flock of House Swifts. The airport was surrounded by an endless acreage of oil palm plantations on the low hills so presumably the local avifauna is relatively impoverished. Took Air Malaysia flight MH715 at 8.30 and flew through thick and ominous cloud over Bali to land at Denpasar airport where we were met by a hired taxi to take us to Sanur and Hotel Diwangkara at the North end of the beach. The hotel and ground floor rooms were very close to the sea and had small lush gardens throughout. Sipping a gratis free drink at the hotel beach bar, we noticed Javan Pond Herons fishing along the reef exposed by the low tide and the ubiquitous Linchi White Breasted Swiftlets which seemed always in view anywhere on Bali. Tree sparrows were feeding on the Hindu food offerings on the beach. From the veranda of room 116 we were visited by the local Yellow Vented Bulbul begging for food and soon noticed a few Island Collared Doves amongst the common Spotted Doves. There were a few Plantain Squirrels in the sea side trees. The towering and brooding presence of the local volcano Gunung Agung (3142 metres high and thirty miles away) made itself known as it appeared out of the haze. As night fell, there was a cacophony of ‘shorebird-like’ ‘schreee schreee’ calls which I could not identify but I was to find out who made them on the morrow! We watched the geckos in the bar after dark.

Hotel Diwangkara, Sanur Gunung Agung 3142m from Sanur beach

Tuesday 28th February 2012 I was awoken by the local Imam at 4.30 and again by the very noisy Yellow Vented Bulbuls so it was not difficult to arise at first light to go birding slowly and very locally so as to catch up with the common species as usual. A few immature night herons flew north and then a flock of Grey Cheeked Green Pigeons flew into the local banyan tree, the common green pigeon in Sanur. Behind our Hotel Diwangkara, I found the local golf course (part of the Grand Bali Beach resort) and a gang of Bulbuls with much brighter yellow vents than Yellow Vented Bulbuls but with Sooty Heads. I walked in and was not challenged so roamed around making sure that I didn’t get in the way of any of the many golfers already up and about. A row of tall trees with few leaves proved a good place for birds to see and be seen and the local red headed ‘rosea’ race of Coppersmith Barbet was soon added to the list. A noisy Black Naped Oriole was easy and I could see right inside it’s red mouth. A pair of Collared Kingfishers were calling and the local White Breasted Wood Swallows were busy hawking from the tree tops. Flocks of Scaly Breasted (siskin like call) and Javan Munias (‘trilee trilee’ call) were frequent and a distant flock of flying Mynas were Javan. The first of many good views of male Scarlet Headed Flower-pecker and male Olive Backed Sunbird were secured. A Long Tailed Shrike pair was feeding noisy young and then they squabbled with the Plantain Squirrels. I walked back along the beach where barn swallows were sitting and singing on the fishing boats. Sunning on the beach later I watched a rather parched looking Purple Heron with open bill fly in from the sea and south along the beach which made me try to string it into a large-billed heron! We acquired two bikes for the two weeks for circa £20 and so tried them out by cycling south along the brick paved promenade path all the way to it’s end at Sanur Mangroves. Here the tide was in but we did have great views of Little Blue Kingfisher and Common Sandpiper. At dusk, I went in search of the strange ‘chewee chewee’ calls that I heard last night and on the pantile roof of our Hotel Diwangkara I found a pair of displaying Savannah Nightjars with white wing flashes on the flying or wing-stretching male and white tail edges showing when the female wagged it’s tail while seated. Each pantile roof seemed to have its own pair of nightjars.

Sanur mangroves dump or amazing habitat but maybe both ???

Wednesday 29th February 2012 At 6am I took the bicycle south to the Sanur Mangroves at low tide which were smelly and full of rubbish of all description but this did not put off the birds which on first inspection consisted of a feeding flock of large, medium and small white egrets, pond herons and many Common Sandpipers. There were also a few Greenshanks, Green Sandpipers, Redshank and White Bellied Water-hens wandering through the lush trash. In the mangrove were a pair of noisy Pied Fantail and a Javan Grey Throated White Eye with a non white eye and a pair of noisy protesting (‘tueety tueety’) Bar Winged Prinias which were the brightest coloured (yellow & blue grey) and the least streaky Prinias I’ve ever seen! A Small Pied Cormorant and a pair of Sunda Teal flew in to the lagoon before I left for breakfast, the latter quite unlike the duck I saw in South Australia without the steep for-head. Two Sunda woodpeckers also flew in to the creek-side trees for a while. Back for breakfast and had another Red Headed Flower-pecker in the hotel Diwangkara gardens. One Little Tern with a dark primary wedge was fishing along the beach which presumably was not a Saunders? The swallows hawking from the beach Tele-communications tower were dark and short tailed Pacific Swallows. In the afternoon we cycled North along the cycle track and in the black-sand seaside fields with seeding grasses we found at least two flocks of White headed Munias with a few Striated Weavers with them plus Zitting Cisticolas. At the end of the much broken brick path were two

temples, one by the beach and another which was much overgrown and slightly inland which looked like good habitat but Ros did not like the barking dogs there.

Thursday 1st March 2012 I cycled back to the Mangroves at dawn but diverted along the last beach breakwater to view the sand and mud and along the outlet sand spit from the Mangrove outfall were 15 very small, rather dull plumaged plover with thin white fore-head patches and long grey legs set quite far back on the body which were used quickly and so were Javan Plover! In the mangrove were at least two and very obvious Grey Tailed Tattlers. A Common Iora muttered, nine Night herons flew out, a single Whimbrel called and flew in and a small male sparrow-hawk flew over which was a Japanese. Back for breakfast and along the beach breakwaters, a Pacific Reef Egret fished for crabs and I was able to stalk it to within 10 metres. There was heavy rain from 3 till 5.30pm today. That night our resident Brown Tree Frog was very vociferous in the garden pond outside so we christened it the ‘fart frog’ and took it’s photo as it basked in the warmth of a garden light!

Friday 2nd March 2012 Finally worked out that the first bird to sing in our hotel Diwangkara garden was the Pied Fantail. Once this was ascertained, I toured the golf course and detected by call and fleeting flight views, at least two pairs of Yellow Throated Hanging Parrots and saw one hanging in a palm top. I got more and better views of birds seen previously and Common Ioras in the thick hedge by the football pitch. Had better views today of Javan Mynas with their white vents. After lunch we cycled south and along the main dual carriageway to The Mangrove Centre which proved to be almost in Kuta and was rather too far to cycle to. It took an hour to walk the board-walks, some of which had missing boards but the tide was in, so I saw few birds. Heard more calling Gerygones and saw more Ioras, Olive Backed Sunbirds, Pied Fantails, two Small Pied Cormorants, and good views of Fulvous Bellied Woodpeckers,

Mangrove Info Centre, Sanur-Kotur Rd, 2.iii.12 Lambuan Lalang boats, 3.iii.12

Saturday 3rd March 2012 We were picked up at 4.30 at the hotel entrance by Inyonan Jinggo, who drives for the birdguide Hery’s driver. He drove us west across the island and through heavy rain to Bali Barat on the west coast. Luckily, the rain stopped and we could see two of Java’s tall volcanic peaks across the straight (Gunung Raung, 3332 metres & Gunung Merapi at 2799 metres in altitude). We arrived at Lambuan Lalang after a four hour drive and met Herykusuma Negara (“Hery”) and a Javan student called Kiki there for breakfast. We then took a boat out from there along the eastern coast of Brumbun opposite and looked for black-naped terns amongst the flock of flying Common Terns but had no luck. We could see the distant Baluwan volcano in Java where the Green peafowl live. I found the major target and amazingly huge Beach Thicknee along the beach here where it looked typically reptilian and even got a distant photo of it from the boat without disturbing it. We landed and had a rapid series of sightings starting with Savanna Nightjars flying up from the sand, male Small Minivet, a single and the only Orange Breasted Green Pigeon of the trip, many Island Collared Doves, Blue Tailed Beeaters overhead and perched, Black-Naped Oriole, White-breasted Wood Swallows, 2 Oriental Honey Buzzards and a Black Drongo. We climbed the rough lava slopes to a cliff top with a good view over the dry acacia scrub and watched. We soon had good scope views of Lineated Barbet and White Shouldered Triller and saw a number of the large ‘Red Deer like’ Timor Deer but we could only hear the calls of

the associated Black Winged Starlings after much chasing across the hillside. An Oriental Hobby flashed through eastwards and we found Sunda Woodpecker and a displaying Singing Bush Lark (a song like a tree Pipit and the flight of a Sky Lark).

Brumbun dry Acacia forest and Pulao Menjangan beyond, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12 We scrambled to another cliff top and had a Changeable Hawk Eagle and Dollarbird scoped and I saw my only Striated Swallow fly through (like a streaky red rumper). We descended with a pair of small Zebra Doves which buzzed up from the ground in front of us. We also secured a fleeting flight view of a Javan Cuckoo Shrike. Arriving at the Telak Brumbun centre Hery found one of the only two truly wild Bali Starlings left, feeding on the bird table by the captive breeding aviary and it displayed to the captives inside by raising its white head plumes. We heard that one of the three remaining wild birds had been eaten by a python only weeks before! As a result, the wardens were rather sullen but posed with us for the photograph below. We had heard Green Jungle fowl calling all morning but now we had good views at the camp of two cockerels. We took the boat again across to the island of Pulao Menjangan where we disembarked precariously along a row of crumbling concrete cylinders and into the island forest. Here we easily found a number of Lemon Yellow White-eyes which only occur locally here. There was also a huge Common Bird-wing Butterfly Troides helena which allowed close scrutiny.

Pulao Menjangan breakwater. Greencock & hen, Menjangan Resort, 3.iii.12

We returned to Lambuhan Lalang and saw a Scorpion Fish under the pier before having lunch and then we left Ros there and drove off along the main road west for 5 kms and entered down a narrow into a thick forest next to a small stream. Here I and Kiki were directed to sit while Hery walked away and we soon saw the Javan Banded Pitta run across in front of us as directed by Hery, another target species scored! There we slowly stalked the path along the stream for a fleeting but good view of Rufous Backed Dwarf Kingfisher but only heard Fulvous-chested Jungle Flycatcher and Mangrove Whistler. We drove east past Labuhan Lalang to Menjangan forest resort and along the tracks there we found a number of Green Jungle cocks and a hen and finally good views of a white Black Winged Starling. There we saw 2 Muntjac (the same species as is feral in Britain) and a troupe of 4 Long Tailed Macaques.

The Bali Starling moment, Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12, Kiki and Hery on the right, the staff mourning the passing of the third Myna. On again east with a Short Toed Eagle over the road towards Pemuteran and found the saltpans at Banyuwedang and scoped the wader flocks. The walls were made of shell and coral fragments including items up to the size of whole giant clams. Another Beach Thicknee was very obvious as were flocks of Red Necked Stints (with no Long Toed as expected among them), a dozen Sunda Teal, a few Grey Tailed Tattlers, summer plumaged Mongolian Plovers, Javan Plovers, Redshank, Greenshank, Turnstone, 1 Great Sand Plover, 1 Grey Plover and many Zitting Cisticolas. Over flew a single Brahminy Kite, the only one of the trip. Moving back through the village to the main road, we stopped at a house with no windows behind high barb wire protected walls which was specifically built for breeding Edible Nest Swift-lets which we soon saw flying high overhead without a pale belly. A male Streaked Weaver was here also in a maize crop. Ros was rather worried by being left so long so we started to leave with a final bonus of a tree full of amazing Grey Rumped Tree Swifts by the main road side. We left Hery and Kiki here and were driven back the 4 hours through the same heavy rain which had been continuous all day at Sanur!

Sunday 4th March 2012 The sky was very clear so that we could see the trees near the top of Gunung Agang and the hills of a very distant Lombok (70-80 miles away) on the eastern skyline and on the other side of the ‘Wallacean Gap’ where the species are more Australian as compared to Bali which is more Asian. Before breakfast, I cycled North to the Hindu temples at the end of the cycle track which was very busy with early morning locals on their weekend perambulation. There the dogs complained about my presence but they kept distant. I finally got good views of a Brown Headed Sunbird and Olive Backed Tailorbird in the trees by the overgrown temple. Feeding at the temple food were a pair of Zebra Doves and out at sea were a couple of Crested Terns. Walked out again late afternoon with more views of hanging Parrots and a flock of small Short Tailed Starlings in trees in the Golf Course. The rain was torrential again in the evening.

Temples at north end of the Sanur Cycle track

Monday 5th March 2012 Today we took the first public boat from the beach by our hotel to Nusa Lembongen at 8am for the one hour trip with the only flying thing being a flying fish!. This cost us c, £16.50 each return. There we hired bikes (negotiated down to c.£3 each for the day!) and circumnavigated the island clockwise. We went to the east end of the Mangrove point with Oriental Honey Buzzards over westward, more Common Sandpipers, Gerygons and a couple of the almost black ‘pluto’ race Oriental Magpie Robins which were not present in Sanur. In the mangroves, we noticed many crabs which scuttled into holes as we rode past and a pair of very tame Rainbow Bee-eaters by the road and a singing Golden Headed Cisticola, the only one of the trip. We were first tourists of the day so had the island to ourselves passing a village with a topless old lady and many roadside stalls with tenders who were too slow to stop us. I finally latched onto a male Pink Necked Green Pigeon and there were more lemon Yellow White-eyes (also not present on the mainland). Picked up coral fragments and fragments of Tiger Cowrie, Soldier Cone, Purple Drupe etc. I noticed Purple Herons flying toward and from the mainland and a distant Frigate-bird could not be given specific status. Another flock of 9 honey buzzards went west. We returned on the 3pm boat in deteriorating weather with rain.

The Sanur - Nusa Lembongen ferry, 5.iii.12 Nusa Lembongen Mangroves, 5.iii.12

Tuesday 6th March 2012 At dawn, I returned to the Grand Bali Beach football field for further views of the adult and streaky immature Short Tailed Starlings and more views of the common species. There were many Common Ioras but I could not find any sight or sound of Mangrove Whistlers though! We moved rooms from 116 to 122 which was more private but still had very restricted views i.e. you could not see the wood (or the birds) for the trees. Here, I could feed the Bulbuls with fruit without being accused of attracting vermin to our neighbour’s room, even though the bulbuls collected and ate each offering! A few cattle egrets moved north along the beach but not much else apart from the regular Little Tern and the Reef Egret. I watched a small Two Stripe Water Monitor lizard in the breakwater rocks by our hotel, feeding off the Hindu food offerings. The rain fell again from 3pm driving us from the beach. The only day without a new bird species seen!

Wednesday 7th March 2012 We employed Ketut Darma to take us to Bedugul who gave us a good price of c.£40. He pointed out the tall roadside bamboo decorations outside each house and the school kids who were wearing national costume to celebrate a special full moon. We were able to discuss with him so that he would drop me off at sites and take Ros on to more interesting non-birdy more tourist type places. He picked us up at 6am and drove us up into the hills past paddies and then more temperate crops such as cabbage, carrots, runner beans, potatoes, market gardening and strawberries. We arrived at the floating Ulun Danu temple on Lake Beratan and Ketut talked about the temple and the culture to Ros while I birded the shore north of the temple. Here were the only Moorhens of the trip, a single Sunda Teal, Long Tailed Shrike, White Bellied Waterhen, pond herons and a fine Cinnamon Bittern close up. The clouds dropped and the rain started but I soon had a Swinhoe’s Snipe fly up and down not far away with a high pitched call and a female Yellow Bittern and a very small dark crake flushed. A striated grassbird was singing from deep cover so I left it for later.

The floating Ulun Danu Temple with Ketut and bittern habitat at Lake Beratan, 7.iii.1012 We then drove up to Bedugul Botanic Gardens which opened at 8am and we both went inside and started to bird in the rain under Ketut’s loaned umbrella but no birds were seen properly so we returned to the entrance shelter and sat out the rain there. I could see Grey Tits and Golden Whistler, trilling Crescent Chested Babblers and a probable flying Javan Kingfisher put it was too wet to see it. The rain lessened so I walked round to the left of the entrance. High up in the tallest trees was a large dark backed Pigeon with a deep double ‘hoo’ call which was a Dark Backed Imperial Pigeon. There were a number of Grey Headed Canary Flycatchers and Scarlet Minivets. At the temple by the edge of the thick forest was a huge dark thrush (a bit like the thrushes of Tolkein’s Mirkwood) coming to food offerings. It was quite tame and regarded me with interest as it flicked it’s wings downwards all the while; a Sunda Whistling Thrush! There were many Blue Eared Barbets calling but none did I see after much searching of the thick canopy. I returned and got another two hours of watching as Ketut took Ros away for lunch. Returned to the same south west corner of the gardens and saw two Orange Fronted Barbets; a flock of Short Tailed Starlings and lots of Olive Backed Sunbirds and the red rump of a Hanging Parrot! As the sun came out by the entrance finally got Grey Cheeked Bulbuls and an Indonesian Honeyeater in quick succession. We then returned to the Beratan Lakeside and I found a huge streaky Striated Grassbird singing quite unexpectedly and in full view on the apex of a roof. We then drove by small tracks down across country past a single wire-sitting Asian House Martin, fruiting Cocoa and Durian trees and the gable of a house shaped like a huge swiftlet’s head! We drove through Ubud with many hippies about but no Javan Kingfishers! Ketut charged c. £40 for the day. The evening was that of the Full Moon and the hotel staff were also dressed in their national dress.

Durian near Ubud, 7.iii.12 Cocoa near Ubud, 7.iii.12

Thursday 8th March 2012 At dawn I cycled through the rain to the Sanur Mangroves again and sat in my favourite place on the semi-circle by the creek bridge, dangled my legs over the edge and watched. The only Large Billed Crow of the trip cawed from a palm behind and a single Asiatic Golden Plover fed in the mud. Found more land crabs along the mangrove track beyond the brick track and the usual Gerygones sang their lazy descending aussie-style whistles. Sat on the beach in the sun and at 11.10 a frigate-bird flew south towards us and turned away just before reaching us but it was clearly a female Lesser frigate bird! The only identified frigate of the trip which returned again for a repeat performance at 2pm.

Friday 9th March 2012 We arranged for Ketut to pick us up at 5.30 to return to Ubud where they dropped me off at the Royal Puri Lukisan Palace with the usual Green Pigeons and Olive Backed Sunbirds in the gardens. Finally found the start of the paddy path to the east of the palace down a shop alley and followed it into the green paddies with a few scattered houses and water expertly channelled everywhere high above the main streams and river deep below in gorges. Lots of Zitting Cisticolas flew, a Collared Scops Owl called, a striated Grassbird sang from cover, and there werw a few Cattle Egrets and more of the usual Bar Winged Prinias, I finally saw the target, a flying and then perched Javan Kingfisher looking much like a Smyrna Kingfisher. Walked back over the Ubud bridge and met up with Ros and Ketut who had been to see the local Petulu heronry which held little interest for me. Ketut charged c.£20 for the half day.

Paddys on the Ubud bird walk, 9.iii.12 Ubud gorge, 9.iii.12 Sat on the beach until with thickening cloud after lunch brought us in and then more rain into the evening.

Saturday 10th March 2012 At dawn, I cycled to the fish farm on the Sanur-Kutur main road but found the gates were closed. Through the fence I could see a fine male Black Crowned Night Heron, Striated

Heron, and the usual egrets and common sands. Along paths in the mangrove by the main road I found cream and red clawed fiddler crabs. Back at the semicircle at the bridge had good views of Gerygone, a male White Shouldered Triller and a blue eyed Racket Tailed Tree Pye which showed itself by parts, first the bill, then the eye, then the strange tail in that order. Then another beach day with very rough sea especially at high tide.

Sunday 11th March 2012 Saw a bunch of Javan Mynas in the hotel garden trees close up for a change! The two local Crested Terns and two local Little Terns flew by as usual. After lunch we cycled round the back of the beach and north to the grass field looking for Java Sparrows but flushed instead a pair of Barred Buttonquails which flew a short distance with whirring wings. A Blue Tailed Bee-eater sat in a nearby tree. We missed seeing the rare Java Sparrow which does occur at Sanur (and at Bali Barat) as they tend to be where the seeding grasses are and there was very little seeding to be seen.

Mangosteen Snake Fruit

Monday 12th March 2012 We were able to sit on the beach until 3.30 before we were ready for the taxi to the airport. 1 Whimbrel went over the hotel before we left. A short taxi ride back to Denpasar airport and then the long night flight via KL to arrive at a cold, dull and drizzly Heathrow.

Mati and team at the Hotel Diwangkara, Sanur in national dress.7.iii.12

We would very much like to thank the staff of Hotel Diwangkara especially Ketu and Mati who served our meals and drinks, Herykusuma Negara (“Hery”), hery_kn@yahoo.co.id telephone +62 (0)813 3807 8010, for his excellent bird guiding at Bali Barat and patience when I couldn’t see the bird; the Mercury Direct rep Sri who introduced us to Ketut Darma who is a driver and tour guide who spoke excellent English, provided a travelogue as he drove us and, though not expert in birding, followed my directions to drop me off and entertained Ros in my absence into the bargain! (ketut.darma72@yahoo.com tel +62 (0)813 3839 5666. The List 1. Green Junglefowl (Gallus varius) ‘Keker ♂ & keo ♀; two roosters out in the open at

Brumbun Bali Barat and 6 or 7 out with a single hen at the Menjangan forest resort about 5 km east of Labuhan Lalang 3.iii.12, thanks to Hery!

Green Jungle cock at the Menjangan forest resort 3.iii.12 2. Sunda Teal (Anas gibberifrons); This duck looks different from the same plumaged

and recently split Grey Teal (Anas grasilis) we saw in South Australia with a very steep forehead! Variably 2-5 were at Sanur mangroves 29.ii.12 and most days where a pair prospected the top of a palm tree for nesting? A flock of 12 were at the Saltpans at Banyuwedang, 3.iii.12, the call was a harsh quack.

3. Barred Buttonquail (Turnix suscitator) ‘Poouh’; 2 flushed in the seeding grass fields just north of Sanur, 11.iii.12.

4. Sunda or Brown-capped Woodpecker (Dendrocopos moluccensis); Sanur Mangroves 29.ii.12; and the Mangrove info Centre, 2.iii.12 Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12; Bedugul Botanic Gardens, 7.iii.12.

5. Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos macei); Sanur Mangrove info centre 2.iii.12; at Bedugul Botanical Gardens, 7.iii.12.

6. Lineated Barbet (Megalaima lineata); a few heard and then seen well at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12.

7. Orange- or Flame-fronted Barbet (Megalaima armillaris); 2 seen well at Bedugul Botanical Gardens, 7.iii.12.

8. Blue-eared or crowned Barbet (Megalaima australis); a dozen or so calling at Bedugul Botanical Gardens but frustratingly none seen properly in the canopy above after much searching, 7.iii.12.

9. Coppersmith Barbet (Megalaima haemacephala rosea); with a red throat and crown. Grand Bali Beach Hotel golf course, Sanur, 28.ii.12 and every day; The commonest Barbet seen well and shown to Ros at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12.

10. Dollarbird (Eurystomus orientalis); 1 scoped at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12, thanks to Hery!

11. Small Blue Kingfisher (Alcedo coerulescens); easy at Sanur mangroves 28.ii.12 and at the ‘Mangrove Centre ’and occasionally behind the north end of Sanur beach.

12. Rufous-backed Kingfisher (Ceyx rufidorsa) 1 Valley rainforest about 5 km west of Labuhan Lalang, 3.iii.12, thanks to Hery!

13. Javan Kingfisher (Halcyon cyanoventris) ‘Tenggek’; only 1 seen on the Bird walk circuit, Ubud, 9.iii.12; a probable distant flight view at Bedugul Botanical Garden, 7.iii.12.

14. Collared Kingfisher (Todirhamphus chloris) ‘Tenggek’; Grand Bali Beach Hotel, 28.iii.12 and every day in Sanur. The commonest kingfisher and often away from water; It was not the right season for the similar Sacred Kingfisher.

15. Blue-tailed Bee-eater (Merops philippinus) ‘Kiri – kirik’; a few at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12; 1 behind Sanur in the grass fields on 11.iii.12.

16. Rainbow Bee-eater (Merops ornatus); 2 very tame in the mangroves at the east end of Nusa Lembongen, 5.iii.12.

17. Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrot (Loriculus pusillus); At least two pairs around the Grand Bali Beach Hotel, 2.iii.12 and most days; good views at Bedugul Botanical Gardens, 7.iii.12.

18. Linchi’s White-bellied Swiftlet (Collacalia linchi) ‘Griti’; from hotel Diwangkara, Sanur, 27.iii.12; Common everywhere, in view almost all the time!

19. Edible-nest Swiftlet (Collocalia fuciphaga); a few over the breeding house near the Saltpans at Banyuwedang, 3.iii.12, thanks to Hery!

20. Grey-rumped Treeswift (Hemiprocne longipennis); dozens going to roost in a roadside tree, western Bali Barat Park, 3.iii.12, thanks to Hery!

21. Collared Scops-Owl (Otus bakkamoena); one heard calling on the Ubud bird circuit, 9.iii.12.

22. Savanna Nightjar (Caprimulgus affinis); ‘Seminyak’; a pair displaying on the roof of Hotel Diwangkara, Sanur; 28.ii.2012 and every night plus many others on each pantile roof, obvious at dawn and dusk; a couple flushed on landing at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12.

23. Rock Pigeon Columba livia; 1 or 2 flocks over Sanur most mornings. 24. Spotted Dove (Streptopelia chinensis) ‘Kukur’; Hotel Diwangkara, Sanur, 27.ii.12 and

every day; Common everywhere. 25. Island Collared Dove (Streptopelia bitorquata); At Hotel Diwangkara 27.ii.12 and

each day; dozens at Brumbun, Bali Barat and the Saltpans Banyuwedang 3.iii.12. 26. Zebra Dove (Geopelia striata) 2 at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12; 2 at the temple at

the North end of the Sanur cycle track, 4.iii.12. 27. Pink-necked Green-Pigeon (Treron vernans); 1 ♂ seen well on Nusa Lembongan,

5.iii.12. 28. Orange-breasted Green-Pigeon (Treron bicincta); 1 ♂ at Brumbun, Bali Barat,

3.iii.12. 29. Grey-cheeked Green-Pigeon (Treron griseicauda); The common green pigeon at

Sanur, 28.ii.12; Bali Barat, 3.iii.12; Bedugul Botanical Gardens, 7.iii.12; and Ubud bird circuit, 9.iii.12.

30. Dark-backed Imperial-Pigeon (Ducula lacernulata) one seen well in the top of the tree canopy in the rain and calling a deep boom, Bedugul Botanic Gardens, 7.iii.12.

31. White-breasted Waterhen (Amaurornis phoenicurus) ‘Tjekruwak’; Sanur Mangroves 29.ii.2012 and every day; Grand Bali Beach Golf Club; north of Ulun Danu temple at Lake Beratan, 7.iii.12.

32. White-browed Crake Porzana cinerea; One probable flushed north of Ulun Danu temple at Lake Beratan, 7.iii.12.

33. Common Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus); a few at Ulun Danu temple at Lake Beratan, 7.iii.12.

34. Swinhoe's Snipe (Gallinago megala); 2-3 by Lake Beratan north of Ulun Danu temple, 7.iii.12.

35. Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus); 1 at Sanur mangroves at low tide, 1.iii.12, 1 over the hotel 12.iii.12.

36. Common Redshank (Tringa totanus); a few at Sanur mangroves at low tide, 29.ii.12 and every day; a few at Saltpans at Banyuwedang, 3.iii.12.

37. Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia); a few at Sanur mangroves at low tide, 29.ii.12; a few at the Saltpans at Banyuwedang, 3.iii.12.

38. Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus); at Sanur mangroves at low tide, 29.ii.12. 39. Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola) ‘Tjeleng’; 1 at the Saltpans at Banyuwedang,

3.iii.12. 40. Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos ‘Tilil’; a few at high tide 28.ii.12 and dozens

at Sanur mangroves at low tide, 29.ii.12 and every day; a few at the Saltpans at Banyuwedang, 3.iii.12.

41. Grey-tailed Tattler (Tringa brevipes); a few at Sanur mangroves at low tide, 1.iii.12; a few at the Saltpans at Banyuwedang, 3.iii.12.

42. Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres); 10 at the Saltpans at Banyuwedang, 3.iii.12. 43. Red-necked Stint (Calidris ruficollis); circa 30 at the Saltpans at Banyuwedang,

3.iii.12. 44. Beach Thick-knee (Burhinus giganteus); 1 on beach at Bali Barat Park & 1 at the

Saltpans at Banyuwedang, 3.iii.12.

Spotted Dove Nusa Lembongen, 5.iii.12 Beach Thicknee, Brumbun beach, 3.iii.12 45. Pacific Golden-Plover (Pluvialis fulva); 1 at Sanur mangroves, 8.iii.12. 46. Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola); 1 at the Saltpans at Banyuwedang, 3.iii.12. 47. Javan Plover (Charadrius javanicus); up to 17 on the sandflats by Sanur mangroves,

1.iii.12 and a few on the mud most days; a few Saltpans at Banyuwedang, 3.iii.12. 48. Mongolian Plover (Charadrius mongolus); a few both in winter and summer plumage

at the Saltpans at Banyuwedang, 3.iii.12. 49. Greater Sand Plover (Charadrius leschenaultia); 1 at the Saltpans at Banyuwedang,

3.iii.12. 50. Great Crested-Tern (Sterna bergii); 1 or 2 off Sanur beach most days. 51. Common Tern (Sterna hirundo); circa 20 off Labuhan Lalang, 3.iii.12. 52. Little Tern (Sterna albifrons) one or two fishing off Sanur beach 28.ii.12 and most

days. What is Saunder’s Tern? 53. Oriental Honey-buzzard (Pernis ptilorhyncus); at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12; Nusa

Lembongen, 5.iii.12 and Sanur. 54. Brahminy Kite (Haliastur Indus); only 1 seen over the Saltpans at Banyuwedang,

3.iii.12. 55. Short-toed Snake-Eagle or Short-toed-Eagle (Circaetus gallicus); 1 seen over the

Labuhan Lalang and Pemuteran road, 3.iii.12, thanks to Hery! 56. Japanese Sparrowhawk (Accipiter gularis); 1 ♂ over the Sanur mangroves, 1.iii.12

was the only one seen. 57. Changeable Hawk-Eagle (Spizaetus cirrhatus); 1 scoped in a tree at Brumbun, Bali

Barat, 3.iii.12. 58. Oriental Hobby (Falco severus); 1 fly through at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12 was the

only one seen, thanks to Hery! 59. Little Pied Cormorant (Phalacrocorax melanoleucos); singles at Sanur Mangroves

29.ii.12 and most days, 2 at the Mangrove info Centre, Sanur, 2.iii.12.

60. Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) ‘Kokokan’; a few fishing at Sanur Mangoves, 29.ii.12 and each day; Common. A few on the Bird walk, Ubud.

61. Pacific Reef-Egret (Egretta sacra); 1 dark phase feeding on crabs on the breakwaters by Hotel Diwangkara, Sanur 1.iii.12 and most days.

62. Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea); flyover at Hotel Diwangkara, Sanur beach, 28.ii.12 and most days; Sanur Mangroves most days.

63. Great Egret (Casmerodius albus) fishing at Sanur Mangoves, 29.ii.12 and every day; fly overs at Hotel Diwangkara,, Sanur.

64. Intermediate Egret (Mesophoyx intermedia) ‘Kokokan’; fishing at Sanur Mangoves, 29.ii.12 and every day.

Pacific Reef Egret, Sanur beach, 1.iii.12 65. Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis coromandus) ‘Kokokan’; seen at the airport on arrival but

very few afterwards! a few on the bird circuit, Ubud, 9.iii.12. 66. Javan Pond-Heron (Ardeola speciosa) ‘Blekok’; Sanur beach 27.iii.12; fishing at

Sanur Mangoves, 29.ii.12 and every day; Common throughout especially in Sanur mangroves and Lake Beratan, 7.iii.12.

67. Striated / Little Heron (Butorides striatus); Sanur mangroves, 1.iii.12 and most days; Bali Barat Park, 3.iii.12, Sanur fishponds, 10.iii.12.

68. Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax); small flocks seen over Sanur and Sanur Mangroves 28.ii.12 and most days at dawn flying north; 1 adult at Sanur fishponds, 10.iii.12.

69. Yellow Bittern (Ixobrychus sinensis); 1 by Lake Beratan north of Ulun Danu temple, 7.iii.12.

70. Cinnamon Bittern (Ixobrychus cinnamomeus) ‘Kokokan maling’; 1 by Lake Beratan north of Ulun Danu temple, 7.iii.12.

71. Lesser Frigatebird (Fregata ariel); 1 distant off Nusa Lembongen was indeterminate, 5.iii.12 but one close off the Hotel Diwangkara beach at Sanur was a definite ♀ on 8.iii.12.

72. Banded Pitta (Pitta guajana); 1 at the Valley rainforest about 5 km west of Labuhan Lalang; 3.iii.12, thanks to Hery!

73. Indonesian Brown Honeyeater (Lichmera indistinct limbata); 1 seen well at Bedugul Botanic Gardens as the sun finally came out, 7.iii.12.

74. Golden-bellied Gerygone (Gerygone sulphurea); Common in Mangroves; Sanur mangroves, 29.ii.12; Mangrove info Centre, 2.iii.12;, Nusa Lembongen, 5.iii.12.

75. Long-tailed Shrike (Lanius schach) ‘Tjerida’; Frequent, Grand Bali Beach Hotel Golf Club, 28.iii.12 and every day; Bali Barat; Bedugul.

76. Golden Whistler Pachycephala pectoralis; common at Bedugul Botanical Gardens, 7.iii.12.

77. Mangrove Whistler (Pachycephala cinerea) Heard at the valley rainforest about 5 km west of Labuhan Lalang, 3.iii.12 but nowhere else.

78. Racket-tailed Treepie (Crypsirina temia); 1 at the bridge, Sanur mangroves, 10.iii.12 79. Large-billed Crow (Corvus macr’orhynchos) ‘Gagak’ only 1 in a palm by the

Mangroves, Sanur, 8.iii.12. 80. White-breasted Woodswallow (Artamus leucorhynchus) ‘Kekep’ Grand Bali Beach

Hotel golf course, Sanur, 28.ii.12 and every day. common,. Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12.

81. Black-naped Oriole (Oriolus chinensis) ‘Tjilalongan’ Gardens of Grand Bali Beach Hotel 28.ii.12 and every day; common; Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12.

82. Javan Cuckooshrike (Coracina javensis); 1 flyby at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12, thanks to Hery!

83. White-shouldered Triller (Lalage sueurii); 1 male at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12; 1 male at Sanur mangroves, 10.iii.12.

84. Small Minivet (Pericrocotus cinnamomeus); 1 male at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12. 85. Scarlet Minivet (Pericrocotus flammeus); Bedugul Botanic Gardens, 7.iii.12. 86. Pied Fantail (Rhipidura javanica); ‘Kapas’ common. Sanur Mangroves, 29.ii.12; The

first bird to start singing in the Hotel Diwangkara garden at Sanur each day; by the football-pitch behind Grand Bali Beach Hotel, Sanur; The Mangrove Centre, 2.iii.12.

87. Ashy Drongo (Dicrurus leucophaeus) a few at Bedugul Botanic Gardens, 7.iii.12. 88. Black Drongo (Dicrurus macrocercus); a few at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12. 89. Black-naped Monarch (Hypothymis azurea) Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12;

Lembongon Island.

One of two wild Bali Starlings left outside the breeding cage at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12 90. Sunda Whistling-Thrush (Myophonus glaucinus); 1 ♀ at Bedugul Botanical

Gardens, 7.iii.12. 91. Fulvous-chested Jungle-Flycatcher (Rhinomyias brunneata); Valley rainforest

about 5 km west of Labuhan Lalang 3.iii.12. 92. Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher (Culicicapa ceylonensis); common at Bedugul

Botanical Gardens, 7.iii.12. 93. Oriental Magpie-Robin (Copsychus saularis pluto) ’Betjitja’; not seen on Bali main

island; 2 of this mostly black subspecies ‘pluto’ on Nusa Lembongen, 5.iii.12. 94. Bali Myna (Leucopsar rothschildi) 1 of the only 2 remaining wild birds seen on the

bird table outside the breeding cage at Brumbun Bali Barat, 3.iii.12, thanks to Hery! 95. Short-tailed Starling (Aplonis minor); flocks of adults and immature at Grand Bali

Beach Hotel golf course and at Bedugul Botanical Gardens, 7.iii.12. 96. Black-winged Starling (Sturnus melanopterus); We heard the ‘Tjurik’ call often at

Brumbun, Bali Barat, but could not see em even though we saw the Timor deer with which they associate. We did later see one well at Menjangan forest resort east of Labuan Lalang, 3.iii.12, thanks to Hery!

97. Javan Myna (Acridotheres javanicus); flocks seen flying north over Sanur, 28.ii.12 and most mornings, a few close in a tree by Hotel Diwangkara.

98. Grey Tit (Parus afer); Common at Bedugul Botanic Gardens, 7.iii.12. 99. Pacific Swallow (Hirundo tahitic) ‘Sesapi’; Sanur Beach and Mangroves 29.ii.12

Common; Bird walk, Ubud.

100. Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) Sanur beach 28.iii.12 and everyday 101. Striated Swallow (Hirundo striolata) ‘Sesapi’; only 1 seen flying low over Brumbun

Bali Barat, 3.iii.12. 102. Asian House-Martin (Delichon dasypus); 1 seen on wires on route from Bedugul to

Ubud, 7.iii.12. 103. Grey-Cheaked Bulbul (Criniger bres); ; Bedugul Botanic Garden; a few seen well

when the rain stopped, 7.iii.12.

The common Yellow-vented Bulbul coming for fruit by hotel Diwangkara room 116, Sanur 104. Yellow-vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus goiavier) ‘Tjerutjuk’ first seen by our Hotel

Diwangkara room on 27.iii.12; VERY Common almost everywhere. 105. Sooty-headed Bulbul (Pycnonotus aurigaster) ‘Kutilang’; Grand Bali Beach Hotel

golf course, 28.ii.12; common at Sanur & Lembongon Island. 106. Common Iora (Aegithinia tiphia) ‘Kepetjitan’; Frequent. In bushes by Sanur

Mangroves, 1.iii.12; By the Grand Bali Beach football pitch & at The Mangrove Centre, 2.iii.12.

107. Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis) ‘Tjitji’; common in the paddyfields on the Ubud Bird circuit, 9.iii.12.

108. Golden-headed Cisticola (Cisticola exilis) ‘Tjetjetrung’; l singing near the mangrove eastern Nusa Lembongan.

109. Bar-winged Prinia (Prinia familiaris) ‘Tjinglar’, by the Sanur Mangroves 29.ii.12; Common. ; Ubud bird walk circuit, 9.iii.12; by the football pitch behind Grand Bali Beach Hotel, Sanur.

110. Mountain Leaf Warbler (Philloscopus trivirgatus) a few at Bedugul Botanical Gardens, 7.iii.12.

111. Lemon-bellied White-eye (Zosterops chloris) ; Nusa Lembongan, Menjangan Island; 112. Javan Grey-throated White-eye (Lophozosterops javanicus), Hotel Diwangkara,

28.ii.12 and Sanur Mangroves 29.ii.12; common at Bedugul Botanical Gardens, 7.iii.12.

113. Olive-Backed Tailorbird (Orthotomus sepium) ‘Tjinenen’; Sanur; Sanur mangroves; 114. Striated Grassbird (Megalurus palustris) ‘Tjek-tjek korek’; 1 singing on a roof! by

Lake Beratan north of Ulun Danu temple, 7.iii.12; 1 singing north of Ubud on the birdwalk, 9.iii.12.

115. Crescent-chested Babbler Stachyris melanothorax; common at Bedugul Botanical Gardens but mostly heard, 7.iii.12.

116. Singing Bushlark (Mirafra javanica) ‘Rangana’; 1 seen and heard display flighting at Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12.

117. Scarlet headed Flowerpecker (Dicaeum trochileum), ‘Tabia-tabia’ The common flowerpecker at Grand Bali Beach Hotel golf course, Sanur 28.iii.12 and everyday; Bali Barat Park; Bird walk, Ubud.

118. Olive-backed Sunbird (Nectarinia jugularis) ‘Kepetjit.’ the common sunbird; Grand Bali Beach Hotel golf course, Sanur 28.iii.12; Mangrove info centre 2.iii.12;, Ubud bird circuit, 9.iii.12.

119. Brown-throated Sunbird (Anthreptes malacensis); ‘Kepetjit’ 1 ♂ in a palm by the temple at the north end of the cycle track.

120. Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus); ‘Gereja’ On Sanur beach every day feeding on the Hindu food offerings, Common.

Sanur beach Tree Sparrow, 10.iii.12 Javan Munia nest, Hotel Diwangkara, Sanur, 2.iii.12 121. Streaked Weaver (Ploceus manyar); ‘Tsangtsia’ a few with the White headed Munias

by cycle track and in the grassfields north of Sanur most days; 1 ♂ Saltpans at Banyuwedang, 3.iii.12.

122. White-headed Munia (Lonchura maja); Common north of Sanur along the cycle track in the grass fields, 29.ii.12 and most days; also at Ubud.

123. Scaly-bellied Munia (Lonchura punctulata); ‘Prit Petingan’ Common everywhere. 124. Javan Munia (Lonchura leucogastroides); ‘Prit abing’ Common throughout. Flocks at

Grand Bali Beach Hotel and nesting by our bedroom at Hotel Diwangkara, 28.ii.12 and every day; Call ‘Trilee trilee’. common in Ubud paddyfields.

♀ Muntjac, Menjangan forest resort, Bali Barat Grasshawk dragonfly Neurothemis fluctuans, 3.iii.12 Hotel Diwangkara, Sanur, 9.iii.12 Mammal list 1. Rusa or Timor Deer (Cervus timorensis) a few seen in the dry Acacia forest at

Brumbun, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12. 2. Muntjac (Muntiacus muntjac) male and female seen in the Menjangan forest resort

about 5 km east of Labuhan Lalang 3.iii.12.

3. Plantain squirrel (Callosciurus notatus) At Hotel Diwangkara, Sanur 28.ii.2012 and

every day, common in the beach-side trees.

4. Long Tailed Macaque (Macaca fascicularis) 4 seen at the Menjangan forest resort about 5 km east of Labuhan Lalang, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12.

Two Striped Water monitor (Varanus salvator bivittatus) A small individual was living between the rocks of the Sanur breakwater by Hotel Diwangkara, Sanur and feeding off the food offerings.

Common House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus each night, Hotel Diwangkara, Sanur.

Brown Tree Frog Polypedates leucomystax a number were noisy at night at Hotel

Diwangkara, Sanur, 1.iii.12.

Common House Gecko Hemidactylus Brown Tree Frog Polypedates leucomystax

frenatus at Hotel Diwangkara Bar, 27.ii.12 at Hotel Diwangkara, 1.iii.12

Great Eggfly Hypolimnus bolina by the beach bar, Hotel Diwangkara Sanur, 2.iii.12

Common Birdwing Triodes helena, Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus, Sanur, 10.iii.12 Pulao Menjangan, Bali Barat, 3.iii.12

A dead Swimming crab that has been cooked by the hot sun, Reef heron fodder at Sanur. Bibliography Jepson, Paul, 1997. Birding Indonesia, A Birdwatchers guide to the World’s Largest Archipelago. Periplus Action Guides / Birdlife International Indonesia Programme. 318pp. Mackinnon, John & Phillipps, Karen, 1993. Birds of Borneo, Sumatra, Java & Bali. Oxford University Press. 491pp. Strange, Morton. 2001 A Photographic Guide to the Birds of Indonesia. Chistopher Helm. 416pp. Ver Boekmoes, Ryan & Stewart, Iain, 2011. Lonely Planet Bali & Lombok, 13

th edition.

415pp.

Sunrise, Sanur, 2.iii.12