tutton

WWD BEAUTY INC 4

21 Major!From intrepid entrepreneurs to established execs, WWD Beauty Inc presents 50 super-

stars under the age of 40 who are rewriting the rules of the industry.

26 Work PermitWant to attract the next generation of talent? Here, how Millennials are ushering in a

new era of office culture.

28 Strike It RichTelegenic, empathetic and able to create hero products that keep her customer

base coming back for more, It Cosmetics founder Jamie Kern Lima has cracked the codes when it comes to creating a next-generation beauty empire.

32 The Change AgentsWhile the range of speakers at the WWD Beauty CEO Summit was wide, their mes-

sage was clear: Succeeding in business today requires agile thinkers who can become agents of change in a company.

IN THIS ISSUEFEATURES

Heading to Cosmoprof NA? From hip restaurants to J.Lo’s show, discover where to go.

14

DEPARTMENTS

JAMIE KERN LIMA, FOUNDER OF IT COSMETICS, PHOTOGRAPHED EXCLUSIVELY FOR WWD BEAUTY INC BY AHMED KLINK

DE

SK

PH

OTO

GR

AP

H B

Y M

ICH

AE

L C

LIN

AR

D; V

EGA

S B

Y M

AC

IEJ

BLE

DO

WS

KI/

SH

UT

TE

RS

TOC

K

8Big ScienceShiseido’s new 22,000-square-foot research center symbol-izes an industrywide emphasis on innovation.

10Test of TimeTried-and-true ingredients updated and improved for the latest skin-care launches.

12An Intrepid ExplorerBoots veteran Lauren Brindley is bringing a wave of new thinking to Walgreens’ beauty strategy.

14The Vegas DiariesHeading to Cosmoprof North America? Here, the hot spots to hit, inside and outside of the show.

16How the Chic ShopFive fashionable New York-ers on what they love—and loathe—about beauty.

18The Buy SideScoping out two Union Square hot spots to dis-cover who’s buying what—and why.

34Sweat EquitySound mind, sound body. How today’s top beauty execs stay in great shape.

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 211, NO. 27 Friday, June 24, 2016. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, except for the fifth week in August, the second week in September, and the third and fourth weeks in December, with one additional issue in February, April, June, August, October and December, by Fairchild Media LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich - Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POST-MASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail cus-tomer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave, 2nd Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail licensing@pmc.com. Visit us online at www.wwd.com or to subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLIC-ITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSID-ERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

WWD BEAUTY INC 6

EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD

PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTYJENNY B. FINE EDITOR

JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITORALLISON COLLINS BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITORFAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ELLEN THOMAS BEAUTY, MASS MARKETRACHEL STRUGATZ BEAUTY, NEWSMAUREEN MORRISON-SHULAS COPY CHIEFDANIELLE GILLIARD, MAXINE WALLY COPY EDITORS

CONTRIBUTORSNICOLE DUDKA , (ART), SAMANTHA CONTI (LONDON), MILES SOCHA (PARIS), LUCIE JANIK (MILAN), MARCY MEDINA (LOS ANGELES), MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (BERLIN), AMANDA KAISER (HONG KONG)

PHOTOASH BARHAMAND PHOTO DIRECTORJENNA GREENE SENIOR PHOTO EDITOROONA WALLY BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITORKATRINA BROWN PHOTO EDITOR EMILY TAYLOR PHOTO STUDIO COORDINATORJILLIAN SOLLAZZO ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITORGEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOGRAPHERS

BEAUTY INC ADVERTISINGPAUL JOWDY SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER

PAMELA FIRESTONE ASSOCIATE PUBLISHERLOUISE COOLICK BEAUTY DIRECTORJILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTORMARJORIE THOMAS EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE OLGA KOUZNETSOVA ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALYEMANUELA ALTIMANI SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALYPASCALE RAJAC ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCETRISH ROBBINS SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERRACHAEL DESANTIS, TINA SCHISSEL CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS

DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES SHANNON NOBLES MARKETING DIRECTORCASS SPENCER CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING SUZETTE MINETTI DIGITAL SALES PLANNER

AUDIENCE MARKETINGELLEN FAIRBANKS DEALY VICE PRESIDENTPEGGY PYLE CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTORJANET MENAKER SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENTRANDI SEGAL SENIOR DIRECTOR, INSTITUTIONAL SALESSUZANNE BERARDI SENIOR ONLINE MANAGERTAMRA FEBESH SENIOR MARKETING MANAGERLAUREN BUSCH ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER

PRODUCTIONKEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTORJOHN CROSS PRODUCTION MANAGER

PREPRESS PRODUCTIONALEX SHARFMAN DIGITAL IMAGINGDAVID LEE CHIN ASSEMBLY

SUMMITS & EVENTSAMBER MUNDINGER VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM MARY ANN BACHER EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR KIM MANCUSO DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES ALEXIS COYLE SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR AMELIA EWERT DIRECTOR OF EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING

FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLCMICHAEL ATMORE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT RON WILSON DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS

JAY PENSKE CHAIRMAN & CEO

GERRY BYRNE VICE CHAIRMAN GEORGE GROBAR CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER

CRAIG PERREAULT SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT TODD GREENE GENERAL COUNSEL & SVP HUMAN RESOURCESNELSON ANDERSON VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE KEN DELACAZAR VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE

TARIK WEST VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCESGABRIEL KOEN VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERINGCHRISTINA YEOH VICE PRESIDENT, TECHNICAL OPERATIONSJUDITH R. MARGOLIN DEPUTY GENERAL COUNSELLAUREN GULLION DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONSJONI ANTONACCI SENIOR DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS YOUNG KO CONTROLLER DEREK RAMSEY SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGEREDDIE KO DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONSANDY LIMPUS DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITIONMATT WILLIAMSON, RICK GASCON DIRECTORS OF IT OPERATIONS & PRODUCTIONCARL FONER SENIOR IT ANALYSTDON GERBER, RYAN RAMOS IT ANALYSTS

WWD AND FAIRCHILD MEDIA ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION

EDITOR’S LETTER

YOUTH CORP.

Jean-Paul Agon joined L’Oréal in 1978, straight out of business school, and rose meteorically through the ranks to become chief executive officer in 2006. With a background like that, you can’t help but think the executive has seen it all. Yet last December, in an exclusive interview with WWD Beauty Inc, Agon made it clear that despite his many years of

experience, running the world’s biggest beauty company today is far from business as usual.

“What I see is a market that has changed more in the past three years than in the past 30,” he said. “The market today is much more exciting. There is a new type of competition. Innovation has to be faster. You have to be much more agile, much more nimble.”

Much of that change can be chalked up to Millennials and the emergence of the digital era. While the impact of the demographic from a consumer point of view has been much-discussed, the consequences from a corporate point of view haven’t. For this issue of Beauty Inc, we’ve delved into the world of beauty’s young rockstars. Over the past couple of years, a new breed of young executive—

whether entrepreneur or employed by a well-established company—has emerged. This is a group that isn’t breaking the rules of beauty, they’re rewriting them. Take Jamie Kern Lima, the founder of It Cosmetics, one of beauty’s fastest-growing brands. In less than a decade, she has propelled the brand to more than $300 million in sales on the strength of an innovation strategy that emphasizes hero products and a distribution game plan that capitalizes on her ability to connect with consumers through multiple media platforms. In “Strike It Rich” on page 28, Rachel Strugatz looks at the evolution of the brand—and It’s future.

Lima is not alone. In “Major!” on page 21, we’ve compiled a list of 50 superstars under the age of 40 who collectively are crafting the future of beauty. A dynamic group that includes a young woman pioneering 3-D printing for makeup, a Dubai-based blogger whose influence has gone global and a duo who met while working behind the counter at Nordstrom, bonded over the lack of bold lip color and now oversee a successful social media makeup brand, the list makes one thing abundantly clear: The future of beauty is very bright indeed.—Jenny B. Fine

PHOTOGRAPH BY BRYAN EDWARDSWWD BEAUTY INC 8

BEAUTY BULLETIN

BIG SCIENCETHIS SPRING, SHISEIDO AMERICAS CORPORATION unveiled the transformation of its East Windsor, New Jersey-based research and development facilities. Now called the Americas Innovation Center, its 22,000-square-foot, state-of-the-art labs were built to support Shiseido’s intensifying focus on product development at the regional level and is one of nine Shiseido is building in key markets around the globe, including Paris and Tokyo. The move comes at a time when brands are increasingly investing in innovation as beauty’s key driver. For more on the season’s latest skin-care advances, turn to the next page. —ELLEN THOMAS

Test of TimeHyaluronic acid and retinol cement their hero status with ever-advanced iterations in the newest launches. BY JENNY B. FINE

EyeThe latest eye products are

performance-oriented, yet gentle on skin.

MakeupPacked with skin-care

ingredients, these makeup launches pull

double duty.

RetinolStill the antiaging

gold standard after all these years.

Hyaluronic Acid

The go-to molecule for moisturization

combines with a slew of ingredients.

zSHELF LIFE

1

2

1. Verso Reviving Eye Mask, $55These gel patches are infused with hyaluronic acid and grapefruit extract to help diminish the appearance of crow’s feet and reduce puffiness.

2. Shiseido Bio-Performance LiftDynamic Eye Treatment, $70Super Bio-Hyaluronic Acid N combines with a proprietary blend including rosemary and thyme extract to firm and hydrate the delicate eye area.

3. Darphin Exquisâge Beauty Revealing Eye and Lip Contour Cream, $95Darphin’s double-duty antiager features its Celluvie complex, with acetyl hexapeptide and various botanicals, combined with hyaluronic acid to soften the appearace of lines.

4. Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM Eye, $55Microencapsulated retinol has a sustained release to lessen irritation; shea butter and vitamins A, C and E soothe, caffeine de-puffs.

1. Avène Retrinal Advanced Wrinkle Corrector, $56This nighttime formulation combines hyaluronic acid and retinaldehyde—a less irritating form of retinoic acid—to target wrinkles.

2. Bliss Triple Oxygen Radiance Restoring Mist, $40The perfect summer spritz: vitamin C, ginseng and hyaluronic acid refresh and hydrate; chamomile and cucumber fight free radicals.

3. Dr. Dennis Gross Hyaluronic Marine Hydrating Modeling Mask, $42Algin, glycerine and hyaluronic acid combine in this gel-to-solid mask for an instant dose of intense hydration.

4. Korres Golden Krocus Ageless Saffron Elixir, $98Saffron harvested from krocus flowers grown in Koani, Greece, is formulated with amino acids, copper and hyaluronic acid to aid collagen production.

1. Almay Age Essentials Makeup, $14.99A cocktail of antiaging ingredients, including hyaluronic acid, collagen and peptides, help this full-coverage foundation diminish the look of expression lines over time.

2. The Estée Edit Beam Team Bronze, $50Wear it under makeup or on its own for an on-the-go glow, complete with hyaluronic acid to help skin retain moisture.

3. Studio 10 Youth Lift Glow-Plexion, $40This multitasker can be used directly on the face and body or mixed with foundation; hyaluronic acid and cork oak extract are said to firm the skin.

1. Sonya Dakar Beauty Bootcamp Retinol Radiance, $135The Hollywood-based aesthetician launched her latest line—including Retinol Radiance, said to target fine lines and uneven skin tone—exclusively on Evine.

2. L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Bright Reveal Brightening Dual Overnight Moisturizer, $19.99 Part of a four-item collection developed exclusively for the U.S., this combines glycolic acid, vitamin C and pro-retinol to brighten and moisturize skin.

3. Pestle & Mortar Superstar, $97Two types of retinol combine with a variety of oils—grape seed, rosehip and black cumin seed—to even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of lines.

4. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Night Cream, $145Time-released retinol is one of eight antiaging ingredients in the nocturnal version of Charlotte Tilbury’s best-selling cult skin-care classic, Magic Cream.

4. Wander Beauty On the Go Bronzer & Illuminator, $45This double-sided stick has a matte bronzer on one end and an illuminator on the other, with vitamin C, lemon extract and hyaluronic acid throughout.

3

4

1

2

3

4

1

2

3

4

1 2

3

4

PH

OT

OG

RA

PH

S B

Y G

EO

RG

E C

HIN

SE

E

BEAUTY BULLETIN

WWD BEAUTY INC 10

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT CARLY GRESH, BEAUTY DIRECTOR AT 646 356 4705 OR CGRESH@WWD.COM

THE P OWER OF CONTENT

The Business of BeautyAUGUST 26

The Insider’s IssueAd Close: 08.05 / Materials Due: 08.12Bonus Distro: New York Fashion Week, CEW Insider Events

OCTOBER 14

The Innovators + Euro IssueAd Close: 09.23 / Materials Due: 09.30Bonus Distro: TFWA Cannes

DECEMBER 9

The WWD Beauty Inc Awards Ad Close: 11.18 / Materials Due: 11.25Bonus Distro: BINC Awards, CEW Beauty of Giving Luncheon

Photo by Ruven Afanador

WWD BEAUTY INC 12

MASTER CLASS

BEAUTY BULLETIN

PHOTOGRAPH BY LUCY HEWETT

W

AN INTREPID EXPLORER

After moving from Boots to Walgreens, Lauren Brindley is embarking on a professional—and personal—adventure that could change the face of mass beauty.

BY FAYE BROOKMAN

ITH MORE than 8,200 stores ringing up $5 billion in beauty sales annually, Walgreens is the second-largest cosmetics and personal-care retailer in America. Its sales are driven by a cadre of well-trained beauty experts and an expansive assortment that combines acces-sible brands with more exclusive offerings, not to mention a location strategy that has made its stores ubiquitous.

But Lauren Brindley, who oversees the division in her role as group vice president and general merchandise manager, Beauty & Personal Care, is far from satisfied. She envisions a beauty department that breaks down the traditional American retail chan-nel barriers. In just eight months, since she was courted from her role as customer proposition director at Boots, she’s mapped out a blueprint for Walgreens’ future, a vision that will be unveiled this summer in 2,000 of the chain’s top beauty doors.

Brindley comes to the U.S. well-pre-pared. A 12-year veteran of Boots, her most recent position at the U.K. retailer chal-lenged her to determine how the company could transform itself for the future while also uncovering avenues to attract more shoppers, more often. She’s no stranger to prestige beauty, either, from her almost four years as head of premium beauty and fra-grance at Boots.

What surprises you most about U.S. beauty retailing?

The channel strategy is somewhat dated with a market that says, “This retailer is for this role” and “That type of retailer is for that role.” That’s not how customers want to shop and I’m surprised drugstores haven’t broken out of that. Customers don’t understand what a channel strategy is. All they want to do is get the brands they want, when they want it, where they want it.

We have accessibility to the best beauty customers in the market—76 percent of the U.S. population lives within five miles of a Walgreens—and we have to really think about how we bring her something she wants, where she wants it.

WWD BEAUTY INC 13

BEAUTY BULLETIN

How are you trying to evolve the percep-tion—and reality—of American drugstores?

We’ve really been planning the work we are doing as part of our beauty differentiation strat-egy, which will launch this summer in 2,000 of our best beauty doors, where we are bringing our best brands such as No7 and Soap & Glory. We are also adding a beauty consultant role at select stores, who will receive clinical skin care and makeover training along with technology in the form of tablets to access information and tutori-als. She is being trained in a way we have never done before.

We are investing in new fixtures, new lighting and new brands. We are putting in testing for the first time. We are starting to elevate and differenti-ate that experience in a way you haven’t necessarily seen in the classic drugstore before.

Walgreens has never really talked about beauty in this way. While many beauty brands and retail-ers focus on making you look beautiful, Walgreens believes in helping you feel beautiful.

Some service and testing areas in U.S. drug-stores remained unused today or are used as storage. What’s the solution?

With the growth of online shopping, the role of the

store has to be to provide services and help people find the right products. You can’t do that if you don’t have the right people and training. You wouldn’t expect to walk into a pharmacy and not find a phar-macist—the same is true for beauty.

There’s no point in having all the technology if you don’t have someone to use it. That’s why we are investing in training and having consultants who can assist shoppers. We want customers to feel like our beauty consultants are their trusted best friends. They’ll be well-versed in the latest trends, products and techniques, have a passion for beauty and pro-vide inspirational knowledge to our customers.

Will prestige beauty in Walgreens resemble Boots?

If we are going to look into entering prestige, we will put it into the doors where we know there is market potential. And we would ensure we would bring that high-touch experience to life. A small percentage of the doors are right. We have found this brings in new customers and doesn’t cannibal-ize the customers who were coming into the stores before. The marketplaces are very different and we have to tailor what we are doing here so it is right for the market. We want to make a scalable change in our beauty offering first. We want to take cus-

tomers on this journey with us. That’s why we have focused on the top beauty doors first.

What categories excite you the most?Cosmetics is such an exciting area, because of

the potential for us in that space. We have a mas-sive opportunity in skin care and helping women find the right regimen. Whether it is someone looking to identify a comprehensive regime for a particular skin type or someone seeking the right moisturizer for everyday skin, we need to do a bet-ter job. Our customer is in such a time crunch and looking for quick fixes, and the right regimen can actually simplify her life.

What are the biggest challenges you face?I recently read the WWD Beauty Inc article

about YouTube star Katy DeGroot who explained social media perfectly. If you’re not doing it tomor-row, you’re late. This is a game-changer for a retailer of scale. It used to take retailers like Wal-greens or Boots six to eight months to launch a new product. In this world, we have to look at different ways to bring a product to market a lot faster or we are going to miss the trend. Sometimes we have to take more educated risks, be a lot more agile. I am pushing my team that we are going to have to think differently.

WWD BEAUTY INC 14

PH

OT

OG

RA

PH

BY

PIO

TR

ZA

JDA

SHOW NOTES

BEAUTY BULLETIN

ATHE VEGAS

DIARIESHeading to Las Vegas for Cosmoprof North America? Here, a guide to the

latest hot spots—on and off the show floor.

BY RACHEL BROWN

merica is becoming more diverse and so is Cosmoprof North America. The section Tones of Beauty returns with a selection of multi-cultural brands curated by Corey Huggins, founder and chief executive officer of media group Love, Aunt Bonnie; multiple categories

will be represented, including skin care, hair care, color cosmetics and fragrance. Women of color are an important consumer segment, spending more than $7.5 billion on beauty products annually—a number that continues to grow. AJ Crimson, founder of a namesake cosmetics line, believes Tones of Beauty will help spotlight brands that tend to get overlooked. “I’ve been attending Cos-moprof North America for several years and what I’ve realized was that many brands like mine who

participated would almost lose their voices until they started the Tones of Beauty section,” he says. “I like the fact that they recognize that there is a need. I can’t wait to see how this evolves.”

Also coming back to Cosmoprof NA is one of last year’s most popular features: Beauty Pitch gives founders of established and start-up brands the chance to sell their concepts directly to inves-tors. On July 23, a panel of business and beauty pros, including John Paul DeJoria and Kevin Har-rington, will pick the winners. Mark Cuban, who appeared at the first Beauty Pitch, returns to wow the crowds with his business acumen. Last year, 100% Pure bested the other finalists at the event, which drew 1,400 people, winning $10,000 from TSG Consumer Partners and a one-year mentor-ship with Cuban. 100% Pure chief executive officer Ric Kostick says the victory was momentous for his brand. “Due to the exposure, I made some very influential contacts and friends in the industry,”

he says. “Cuban also trained me on the art of focus and putting your energy into a limited number of initiatives.” That training seems to have worked: 100% Pure’s growth surpassed 40 percent last year and is on track to hit 60 percent this year.

If you’re drinking kale juice while reading this, you’re probably not alone. Consumers increasingly care about what they put on their bodies as much as what they put into them. The natural beauty sec-tor has swelled as a result. Reflecting interest in the segment, Discover Green will make its debut at Cosmoprof North America featuring brands with both retail and spa distribution, including Avo365, Balanced Guru, Blue Beautifly, Jurlique, Inci Medica, Orgaid, Reload Professional Bio Hair Systems and Youth to the People. Mary Bemis, founder and edito-rial director of Insider's Guide to Spas, worked with Cosmoprof to assemble the assortment.

Another must-stop this year is Evine Live’s booth. Along with QVC and HSN, the digital and home television shopping retailer is playing beauty casting agent by holding auditions on the expo floor for brands that would like to score spots on the air. Expanding the program this year, Evine Live will also plunge into the Cosmoprof beauty collection for products to highlight on a segment called “Discovered at Cosmoprof.” Smaller than its home-shopping competitors, Evine Live has pursued a strategy of nurturing emerging brands, including Spoolies, 100% Pure, Salon in a Bottle and EcoTan.

Vegas is as much about play as work. Food and entertainment have surpassed gambling as top attractions. On the food front, the hottest tables include Alain Ducasse’s Rivea at Delano Las Vegas with a menu of Italian and French choices, Roy Ellamar’s Harvest at the Bellagio Las Vegas and Julian Serrano’s Lago, also in the Bellagio. Brian Malarkey reels in the seafood at Herringbone at the Aria. Mario Carbone jetted from New York to Las Vegas to plant his restaurant at the same hotel, and Mr Chow traveled a shorter distance from Los Angeles to bring Chinese delicacies to Caesars Pal-ace. If downing a cold one is more your style, try Beerhaus at The Park, an indoor-outdoor beer hall concept with beers from local brew producers.

Jennifer Lopez’s fragrances have rung up more than $2 billion in retail sales for Coty—and beauty is just her side gig. Check out what she does for her day job at Lopez’s “All I Have” show at The Axis Theater in the Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino, one of the hottest tickets in town. The pro-duction includes 16 dancers, a five-piece band and lavish costumes. J.Lo doesn’t disappoint with her hit songs “On The Floor,” “Jenny From The Block,” “Get Right” and “Love Don’t Cost A Thing.” While you’re singing along, you’re sure to get a glance at the derrière that commanded the red carpet long before the Kardashians ruled the nether regions.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR PFIRESTONE@WWD.COM

Accessories Make Everything Look Better

‘A’

Issue: July 20 / Ad Close: July 6 / Materials: July 11

An Advertising Opportunity

in focus

WWD BEAUTY INC 16

INSIDE INFORMATION

BEAUTY BULLETIN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GEORGE CHINSEE

I

HOW THE CHIC SHOP

Five well-heeled New Yorkers discuss what they love about beauty—and what they can live without.

BY JENNY B. FINE

What does luxury in the context of beauty mean to you?

SARAH S.: In terms of beauty, luxury means quality. For things you are putting directly on your skin and body, quality is most important. Ideally, I look for products that are paraben- and sulfate-free, but I’m also really interested in technologi-cally advanced skin care, which doesn’t usually

exclude those things, so I am open to both.RENA: Luxury is whether the product is going to

work—so if you had a specific issue that you were trying to address and you tried three items that were intended for that use and one worked really well, one didn’t and one was average—it wouldn’t be the packaging or who was promoting it, it would be the end result.

n an era in which luxury has become commoditized, Fivestory, the multibrand fashion boutique located in a townhouse on tony East 69th Street, attracts a sophisticated, savvy clientele with an individualized approach to style. Recently, the retailer teamed up with Clé de Peau Beauté to offer its top customers a skin-care and makeup masterclass. We sat down with five of them to discover more about their approach to beauty. A lively group that included an art consultant, an interior designer and an attorney, the women were beauty connoisseurs whose knowledge rivaled that of a professional. Here, they share their insights on what drives their beauty purchases.

SARAH C.: For me, luxury is about products that make you feel good. Skin creams are luxurious if they make your skin feel really, really good. It gives you an extra layer of confidence, if you feel prettier or better looking because you’re using them.

LAURA D G.: I agree. For me it is more about how my skin feels after. I have really sensitive skin, so I feel often times these luxury products are really aggressive on my skin.

What influences your product purchases?LAURA D G.: If I get a facial and they tell me

I should get the products, I always buy them. I’m also more influenced by someone who has really good skin than by reading about a product.

SARAH S.: For skin care, I trust whoever does my facials because they see my skin under a micro-scope. With makeup products, if I see someone wearing a lipgloss or a bronzer and I think they look great, I’ll ask them who makes it. Or if I’m reading a magazine and I like the way a picture looks, I’m willing to try it. That doesn’t mean I always like it.

LAURA P.: For me it’s more about personal expe-rience—word of mouth, hearing about something from friends or someone who I trust. For example, there are lunches and workshops that some of my friends do for Natura Bissé where they invite a few friends over and they do a tutorial on exactly how you are supposed to use the products. When you go into a lot of high-end lines, they all throw this scientific jargon at you, but it really means nothing most of the time. Seeing a demonstration or being in a friend’s home and seeing it being used gets you involved. It is a credible source.

What stores do you like to buy beauty products from?

LAURA D G.: I like Space NK. It’s really well-curated and they have really good lines. If I go to a department store, I get overwhelmed. Net-a-porter also has a really good selection.

As dermatological services have become more efficacious, does that replace skin care and make you reassess where you spend?

LAURA P.: It’s hope in a jar baby! I’ve told myself, I’m going to put coconut oil on my face because that is supposed to be very good for you—and I’ll do that as well—but it’s not going to stop you from buying that jar, because definitely you associate the money that you spend with the qual-ity of scientific research behind the product.

Is beauty usually an impulse buy or a replenish-ment?

SARAH C.: I am a big impulse shopper. The place where I do a lot of beauty shopping is duty-free. I travel all the time and if I have two hours to kill at the airport, I will try a million products and end up buying half of them.

WWD BEAUTY INC 17

How much do you pay attention to beauty trends, like Korean skin care or strobing?

SARAH S.: I don’t trust trends when it comes to my skin. I know what works and what doesn’t and I’m willing to try a new product or a new person here and there, but once I find something that works, if it ain’t broke….With makeup it is a little different, but I try to keep everything pretty classic and traditional—I might try a different brand, but I’m not going to try a crazy trend.

At Fivestory you have a very curated fashion experience. Is that lacking in beauty retail?

LAURA D G.: A little bit, but it’s different with beauty than with fashion because there are more beauty advisers. You go for a facial or you go to your dermatologist—you’re kind of directed in that sense, whereas in fashion that is the store’s role.

LAURA P.: I love going into Clyde’s. It’s a high-end experience where people are trained and they know exactly what they are talking about. Every-thing just looks better and smells better and it makes a huge difference because it just makes you want it.

RENA: I agree—Clyde’s does do that. If you are dropping off your prescription, they say, how about this new eyeliner or whatnot and they often have brands I’m not familiar with.

LAURA P.: It’s also nice that they don’t attack you. I go to Bergdorf ’s to buy Metier de Beauté, and I prefer them sending it to me because going in the store is a painful process. You have to get past the perfume and all the people who are try-ing to sell you something. That part is not so pleasant.

SARAH C.: When I was using La Mer a lot, I really liked that the salesperson would always send me a text message and make it personal, like, ‘We are doing facials. You should come in—this could be good for your skin.’ That personal rela-tionship, people who know what your skin type is and what would work for you, made it easier for me and it all seems more natural that way than being attacked when you walk into the store.

What about hair care? Would you buy in a retail environment or do you like the profes-sional recommendation there, too?

LAURA P.: That’s where someplace like Sephora comes in. It’s lower-end but more variety, so you really get to see what’s new and people are more willing to experiment with hair products than with face.

SARAH S.: I trust my salon with my hair care—the same as I am with my facialist.

LAURA D G.: With hair, I always want to switch it up and use a different shampoo and conditioner. Every time I finish one I won’t necessarily buy the same one again, because I feel like my hair gets dull from the same stuff.

Compared to your mother’s generation, how do you think the definition of beauty has evolved?

SARAH S.: The products have definitely changed and gotten more sophisticated, but the end game is the same: It’s good skin before your makeup comes on.

LAURA P.: We go through several layers of prod-ucts before we’re done, whereas back then it was like you just washed your face and put on cream. Now you have the cleanser, the toner, the pH bal-ance, the serum, the cream, the SPF.

RENA: My mom is 90. She uses Pond’s Cold Cream and her skin is unbelievable.

Do you ever use it?RENA: No! Because it looks weird and it’s very

cold, but I always wonder why we don’t, because were you all to meet my mother, you would say, "Wow, your mother has unbelievable skin!"

What are your favorite brands in skin care, makeup and hair care?

SARAH C.: For skin care, I love Biologique Recherche. It is the one thing I’ve used and have actually noticed a difference. For hair care, I always use Kérastase. I am also obsessed with Maybelline mascara and Aquaphor for lip balm.

LAURA P.: For skin care, Metier de Beauté, La Prairie and SK-II facial masks are insane. They feel so good. Magic. For hair, Kérastase or Moroccan Oil. Tom Ford for makeup and Lancôme mascara—always, since I was 18.

SARAH S.: I love Kérastase and Shu Uemura for hair. For skin care, I love Tracie Martyn and I also use coconut oil for everything—body mois-turizer, lip moisturizer. Using something natural makes me feel less guilty about putting chemi-cals on my body. Makeup—I use tinted moistur-izer because it is lighter than foundation. I like Laura Mercier and Bare Minerals. Hourglass has a great bronzer. I like Dior mascara and Smash-box eyeliner.

RENA: The Clé de Peau foundation is incred-ible because it is very smooth and not very thick and the concealer is long-lasting and provides a lot of coverage if you have dark circles. By Terry has really beautiful lipsticks that stay on for a long time and are beautifully packaged. Bobbi Brown for blush. If you’re looking for low-cost makeup, Sonia Kashuk at Target. If you look at the packaging, it is almost identical to MAC or Nars.

But you still buy the Nars instead.LAURA P.: After a while, you also have some

brand loyalty. When you are in your Twenties, you are trying everything and after you have tried things and figured out your skin and your skin tone and what works and what doesn’t, you become loyal and stick with them.

RESERVE NOW AT CEW.ORG

9.7.16 The Roosevelt Hotel

NYC

Transformational LeaderMARY

DILLON

A candid conversation with ULTA Beauty’s dynamic CEO on

leadership, innovation, and her strategies for

driving ULTA’s impressive growth and success.

What’s in Melissa's Bag?

$225.11TOTAL SPENT:

MAY 11, 2016—4:45 P.M.

BLUE- MERCURY

865 BROADWAY

WWD BEAUTY INC 18

BEAUTY BULLETINSHOPPER STALKER

The Buy Side

PH

OT

OG

RA

PH

S B

Y G

EO

RG

E C

HIN

SE

EMISSION:

SPRING SKIN-CARE REBOOT

FOR MANHATTAN-BASED HAIR stylist Melissa Hogstrom, a day off means shopping for beauty treats. Ready to deal with her hormonal breakouts, Hog-strom headed to Bluemercury. After consulting with a sales associate, she opted

for a slew of items from M-61, the store’s proprietary line. “I get drawn to people with good skin, because whatever they’re doing is clearly working,” said the shopper of the sales associate. “I felt like we were in-sync.” Hogstrom, 37, often splurges on beauty and and spends $4,000 annually on brands like Nars, Caudalie and Bumble and bumble. Still, she appreciates a good deal. She was especially impressed with M-61’s pricing. “I love La Mer, but I’d rather spend that money on going out.”

Gar

nier

Ski

nAct

ive

Mic

ella

r Cle

ansi

ng W

ater

, $10

“Thi

s is t

he p

erfe

ct m

akeu

p re

mov

er,” s

ays L

enise

.

L’O

réal

Par

is V

olum

inou

s O

rigin

al, $

10 “I

legi

t

feel

like

this

is th

e be

st d

rugs

tore

mas

cara

.”

Shea

Moi

stur

e Co

conu

t & H

ibis

cus

Bath

, Bod

y &

Mas

sage

Oil,

$12

“I p

refe

r to

use

body

oils

afte

r the

show

er—

it m

akes

me

feel

luxu

rious

and

silk

y,” sa

ys L

enis

e.

Shea Moisture Fruit Fusion

Coconut Water Energizing Shea

Butter Soap, $7 Lenise loves the smell of this soap.

Sim

ple

Nou

rishi

ng 2

4-H

our

Day/

Nig

ht C

ream

, $16

.50

“I ha

ve re

ally

sens

itive

skin

,

and

I’ve

neve

r had

a b

ad

reac

tion

to it

,” say

s Len

ise.

Revlon Matte Balm in Passionate, $11 Lenise snapped this

up for a summer lip color on the cheap.

Milani Matte Innocence in 60, $7.50

“I heard this brand packs a lot of

pigment,” says Lenise, who

is “obsessed” with nude lipsticks.

Lune + Aster Baked Bronzer

in Necker Island, $32

Laura Mercier Fresh

Fig Hand Crème, $18

Hogstrom always keeps

a hand cream in her

bag, and decided to

splurge on this one.

Lune + Aster Vitamin C+E Lip Gloss, $18

Nars Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Train Bleu, $26

Hogstrom swears by this dramatic lip color.

M-6

1 Pow

er C

lean

se P

ore-

Purif

ying

Glyc

olic

Face

Cle

anse

r, $5

8 “G

lycol

ic

acid

brig

hten

s and

keep

s my s

kin cl

ear

and

I hav

en’t

seen

it in

a cle

anse

r

befo

re,” s

ays H

ogst

rom

.

M-61 Power Glow Peel 1 Minute

1 Step Exfoliating Facial Peel,

$28 for 10 packets “I always

look for glycolic acid in ingredient

lists,” says Hogstrom.

M-61 Super-

Soothe E Shave Cream, $9

Hogstrom likes to

use a rich shaving cream.

Lune

+ A

ster

Str

atos

pher

e M

asca

ra, $

18

“I us

e the

Cha

nel la

sh p

rimer

, so

all I n

eed

is

a bas

ic bl

ack m

asca

ra,” s

ays H

ogst

rom

.

What’s in Angel's Bag?

$80.40MAY 12, 2016—3:18 P.M.

WALGREENS 145 4TH AVENUE

MISSION:

DRUGSTORE DRIVE-BY

O N-LOCATION IN UNION SQUARE for work, video producer Angel Lenise, 26, couldn’t resist the close proximity to Walgreens after a long day of shooting. “I do prefer the higher-end brands, but I like to raid the

drugstore every now and then, especially when I’m looking to try new products,” said Lenise, who favors Duane Reade and Walgreens for skin care because of upscale lines such as La Roche-Posay. The skin-care obsessed shopper, who spends about $2,000 a year on beauty, curates her eight-step bedtime routine with a mix of high (La Prairie Cellular Swiss Ice Crystal Dry Oil) and low (Cerave bar soaps and witch hazel toner). “If something works,” she noted, “I’m going to use it, no matter the brand.”

TOTAL SPENT:

In Manhattan's bustling Union Square, ELLEN THOMAS checks out the area's wide range of beauty offerings.

WWD BEAUTY INC 21PHOTOGRAPH BY NICOLAS COULOMB

Meet the

dynamic, young beauty

stars under

the age of 40

who are rewriting

the rules

of the industry.

BY JENNY B. FINE

Makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench, who spearheaded this image, takes a uniquely

creative approach to the face, defining beauty as “something

that moves me.” Of her medium, she says, “It’s less

about the actual makeup or its application I find interesting,

but more about creating stylized visuals or developing a

narrative that I find exciting.”

m

oaj

r!

WWD BEAUTY INC 22

LA

UR

EN

BR

IND

LE

Y P

HO

TO

GR

AP

H B

Y L

UC

Y H

EW

ET

T

Beauty is in the throes of a youthquake. Millennials are driving innovations in product development, communications, commerce and creativity—from both an industry and a consumer point of view. Here, WWD Beauty Inc’s roundup of 50 superstars under 40, both entrepreneurs and execs who are part of established companies, who are leading the industry forward into ever new and uncharted territory.

Jessica Alba, 35 FOUNDER, THE HONEST CO.

While The Honest Co. has been in the news lately for all of the wrong reasons, fighting allegations that its products aren’t all natural and its sunscreen doesn’t work, sales haven’t been materially impacted say analysts, thanks to Jessica Alba’s star power. (Honest Co. says that the charges are without merit.) Meanwhile, the company, said to have sales of $250 million to $300 million, rolls, on, launching Honest Beauty in Ulta in 2015. Reports also abound that Honest Co. is shifting into sell mode or planning an initial public offering. Execs have remained mum, but the consensus is that whatever happens, Alba will remain as a key spokesperson for at least the next few years—and her popularity with the public shows no signs of waning.

Lora Arellano, 29COFOUNDER, MELT COSMETICS

Dana Bomar, 28COFOUNDER, MELT COSMETICS

Four years ago, Lora Arellano and Dana Bomar met behind neighboring beauty counters at Nordstrom and bonded over their mutual love of makeup. After bemoaning the lack of matte lipsticks in bold, funky colors, they made their own. Thus was born Melt Cosmetics. In May 2013, they launched with five colors — all of which sold out on day one. Today, Melt has 18 shades of lipstick, plus eye shadows, pigment sticks and two million Instagram followers who have propelled the brand to cult status.

Jen Atkin, 36 CELEBRITY HAIRSTYLIST, FOUNDER, OUAI HAIRCARE, FOUNDER, MANE ADDICTS

Jen Atkin may tend to the tresses of some of Hollywood’s biggest celebs—the Kardashian/Jenners, J.Lo, Gwen Stefani and even Barbie to name just a few—but she herself is one of hair care’s brightest stars. A social media star, Atkin created the online educational platform Mane Addicts, which has branched into Mane University live events. Earlier this year, she launched Ouai hair care, and worked with Dyson to develop their recent hair dryer. In the world of hair, Atkin is a cut above.

Katia Beauchamp, 35 CEO AND COFOUNDER, BIRCHBOX

Katia Beauchamp set her sights on beauty while still a student at Harvard Business School—and she hasn’t looked back. A concept that started as a pioneer in the sample subscription box space, Birchbox has since evolved into a multifaceted retail platform and brand developer. The driving force behind it: Beauchamp’s keen ambition and unflappable willingness to experiment and see what resonates with her Millennially-minded customer base.

Cara Bonilla, 38 CREATIVE DIRECTOR, ULTA BEAUTY

Cara Bonilla oversees all in-store and print design for red-hot beauty retailer Ulta Beauty, the fastest-growing store chain in the U.S.—in any category. She oversaw the look and feel of the chain’s successful 2015 makeover, including creating a new visual identity for Ulta, rebranding Ulta’s Ultamate Rewards loyalty program and integrating the retailer’s Salon branding into the whole.

Frederick Bouchardy, 36FOUNDER, JOYA STUDIO

Frederick Bouchardy founded Joya Studio almost a decade ago as a scented candle concern. It has since blossomed

into a staple of the category, with a thriving private-label business, too, for clients like Billy Reid and Nike. What makes Bouchardy really stand out, though, is his penchant for creating experiences to enhance Indie brands, whether it’s creating the Elements trade show for emerging beauty companies or Joya’s recently opened 10,000 square foot studio in Brooklyn which combines production facilities, retail space and consumer-oriented workshop spaces.

Dan Brenner, 27 CEO, INSTANATURAL

Dan Brenner helms InstaNatural, one of the biggest beauty vendors on Amazon you’ve never heard of. Only 27, his ambitions for the company, which had estimated sales of $17 million last year, are fully grown up: to make it a $100 million business. To that end, Brenner has nearly quadrupled the size of the workforce over a 10-month period and he’s harnessing the power of data to move quicker than the competition in one of beauty’s hottest categories.

Lauren Brindley, 37GROUP VICE PRESIDENT, BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE, WALGREENS

After making her mark at Boots, this Brit transplant has set her sights on catapulting Walgreens from the second-largest beauty and personal-care retailer in the U.S. to the top spot. Lauren Brindley’s vision: To capitalize on Walgreens’ scale and convenience by elevating its entire beauty operation, from brands to service.

MAJO

R!

BEAUTY STA

RS UNDER 4

0

WWD BEAUTY INC 23

TIM

CO

OL

ICA

N P

HO

TO

GR

AP

H B

Y A

ND

RE

W W

ER

NE

R; M

AG

GIE

AN

D A

NN

IE F

OR

D B

Y M

EG

ME

SS

INA

; IS

AM

AYA

BY

LE

XIE

MO

RE

LA

ND

Stacie Brockman, 26 COFOUNDER, MÉTIER CREATIVE

Erin Kleinberg, 30 COFOUNDER, MÉTIER CREATIVE

Stacie Brockman and Erin Kleinberg met at The Coveteur, where Brockman was a cofounder and oversaw editorial and advertorial projects and Kleinberg drove creative and art direction and brand development and relations. In July 2015, they launched Métier Creative, a full-service digital and social media marketing and branding agency, where they’ve already racked up an enviable client list, including Ouai hair care, Dior, Tiffany & Co., Moda Operandi and MAC Cosmetics.

Hannah Bronfman, 28 FOUNDER, HBFIT

Consider her the Millennial answer to Gwyneth Paltrow. “It” girl/DJ/entrepreneur Hannah Bronfman’s latest venture, HBFit, is a multifaceted platform dedicated to health, beauty and fitness. Bronfman’s musings on matcha tea, coconut oil and funky manicures have attracted a broad audience—and the attention of brands like Clinique and Adidas, who have enlisted Bronfman as brand ambassadors.

Sam Cheow, 39CHIEF PRODUCT ACCELERATOR, L’ORÉAL U.S.

As L’Oréal’s chief product accelerator, Sam Cheow scours social media, photo

shoots and fashion week (and everywhere else) for beauty bits that could inspire the next big thing. Recent wins include Lancôme’s Le Teint Particulier Custom Made Makeup, inspired by customization, personalization and a need for shade diversity in makeup; a blow-dry primer for Redken and Essie vending machines created in response to the rise in on-demand convenience.

Grace Choi, 32FOUNDER, MINK

Grace Choi made headlines in 2014 while still at Harvard earning her MBA when she unveiled her 3-D makeup printer, which can turn any image into wearable makeup. More recently, she launched the Mink Pen, a digital custom color tool which can re-create any color. A retail cosmetics line is set to launch sometime this year, according to the company. If Choi’s track record is any indication, count on off-the-charts innovation.

Tim Coolican, 38 DEPUTY GENERAL MANAGER, L’ORÉAL PARIS

Tim Coolican, a Canadian by birth, has had a meteoric rise at L’Oréal. He’s been with L’Oréal USA since 2004, and before coming to the States, notched up a wealth of international experience, including as general manager for consumer products in South Asia-Pacific and general manager of Garnier, Maybelline New York and Essie in London.

The Clarins cousins—sisters Virginie and Claire and twins Prisca and Jenna—are helping position the family company for the next generation of growth. Prisca runs global spa operations, Virginie oversees the Mugler fashion business, Jenna oversees consumer trends and sociocultural influences and Claire just launched her own company called C-Juice, working with Clarins’ ethnobotanist Jean Pierre Nicolas to bring the pressed juice craze to France.

Maggie Ford Danielson, 35HSN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR AND GLOBAL BEAUTY AUTHORITY, BENEFIT

Annie Ford Danielson, 29 GUARDIAN OF THE BRAND DNA AND GLOBAL BEAUTY AUTHORITY, BENEFIT

Daughters and nieces of Benefit brand founders Jean and Jane Ford, Maggie and Annie Ford Danielson are carrying on the family legacy with brio. Maggie launched the brand on QVC back in 2009 and has since quadrupled business on the home shopping channel and catapulted Benefit’s mascara to the top spot. Annie oversees Benefit’s brand culture and philanthropy programs, most recently launching the global Bold is Beautiful project, which is expected to raise over $4 million for programs empowering women and girls.

Michael Dubin, 37FOUNDER AND CEO, DOLLAR SHAVE CLUB

What happens when an ace marketer with killer comedic timing turns his attention to a seemingly impregnable category? Look no further than Michael Dubin, whose Dollar Shave Club has skyrocketed from first-year sales of $4 million in 2012 to $150 million last year with a 16 percent market share of blades overall and 69 percent share of the online market. Sharp mind, indeed.

Isamaya Ffrench, 26 MAKEUP ARTIST

Makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench is represented by Streeters and also serves as the beauty editor of i-D Magazine. If that sounds familiar, it’s no surprise—Pat McGrath, too, built her career with Streeters and held the same position at the trendy Brit mag. Ffrench's work is as distinctive as McGrath’s. A graduate of Central Saint Martins—she

studied product and industrial design—pretty is beside the point; provoking thought isn’t. Look for that ethos to be brought to a wider audience: Ffrench has hinted she is working on a line of her own.

Tara Foley, 31 FOUNDER AND CEO, FOLLAIN

Call her the queen of clean: A keen interest in fitness and nutrition led Tara Foley to investigate skin-care ingredients, and thus the idea of Follain, a “clean beauty” boutique, was born while Foley was in business school. Rather than opening right after graduation, Foley researched ingredients by interning on an organic lavender farm in France and with a private-label company in Maine. Launched in 2013, Follain currently has four bricks-and-mortar stores and a thriving e-commerce site—with more to come.

The Courtin-Clarins Cousins: Virginie, 30; Prisca, 29; Jenna, 29; Claire, 28

WWD BEAUTY INC 24

SA

RA

H G

IBS

ON

PH

OT

OG

RA

PH

BY

BO

NN

IE T

SA

NG

; NA

TAL

IE M

AC

KE

Y B

Y M

AT

T F

RIS

BE

E

Kristy Frivold, 34 DIRECTOR OF INNOVATION, SEPHORA

If Sephora is beauty’s ultimate playground, Kristy Frivold is the queen of fun, responsible for scouting out new technologies and creating new digital retail experiences for shoppers. In the last year, Frivold launched Sephora Virtual Artist, enabling women to try on thousands (over 3,000 to be exact) lipsticks in an instant and resulting in over two million women downloading Sephora’s To Go app, according to the retailer.

Sarah Gibson Tuttle, 35 FOUNDER, OLIVE & JUNE

After a decade in finance, Sarah Gibson Tuttle moved from New York to Los Angeles, where she was unable to find the kind of nail salon that she had become accustomed to. Her solution was to open her own. Olive & June launched with a Beverly Hills outpost and has since expanded into three West Coast locations. Tuttle has set her sights further, however, with plans for more locations, an educational arm and products.

Ben Gorham, 38FOUNDER, BYREDO

Despite his relative youth, Ben Gorham is one of the founding fathers of the niche fragrance

market. His brand, Byredo, helped usher in an era of olfactive excellence combined with a superchic aesthetic. Gorham isn’t content with fragrance counter domination, though. He recently expanded his range to include beautifully crafted leather bags.

Cassandra Grey, 38FOUNDER AND CEO, VIOLET GREY

Hollywood insider Cassandra Grey tapped into her industry connections (hubby Brad runs Paramount Pictures) and innate sense of style when creating Violet Grey. Combining content and retail—both online and bricks-and-mortar—Grey has ushered in an era of curated commerce that has resonated far beyond the confines of Tinseltown. To wit: in the past year, sales have increased 200 percent.

Adina Grigore, 31FOUNDER AND CEO, S.W. BASICS

Adina Grigore is a wellness expert whose experience as a private holistic nutritionist and personal trainer led her to skin care. Driven by the desire to create natural products for sensitive skin, Grigore launched S.W. Basics and wrote a book, Skin Cleanse. Her idea was spot-on: In the last year, sales have grown 300 percent, as the brand has jumped from 500 doors to over 2,000, including Target, Urban Outfitters and a slew of Indie retailers.

Eric Gruen, 31 ASSOCIATE BRAND DIRECTOR, OLAY

Eric Gruen has been tasked with leading all digital efforts for Olay—and to help return the beleaguered skin-care giant to growth. Thus far, Gruen has delivered by revamping Olay’s digital strategy from the ground up, focusing on fundamentals, creative executions and consumer engagement across social media and e-commerce. The numbers thus far are promising. P&G reports a 30 percent increase in e-commerce sales for Olay and a 50 percent increase in click-through.

Beth Hayes, 37VICE PRESIDENT AND DIVISIONAL MERCHANDISE MANAGER, SEPHORA COLLECTION

Over the past eight years, Beth Hayes has been responsible for some of Sephora’s largest launches, including Benefit’s They’re Real mascara, Sephora’s collaboration with Pantone and the initial Color IQ test, which helps users discover the best foundation match for their skin and has since been rolled out to all stores. No surprise then, she was given oversight of the retailer’s private-label business, which has become an increasingly prominent part of Sephora’s merchandise mix.

Huda Kattan, 32 FOUNDER, HUDA BEAUTY

Makeup artist and blogger Huda Kattan has the strongest social media following in the

Middle East, with 13.3 million Instagram followers and counting. She has parlayed online success into retail gold, launching a collection of false lashes at Sephora in Dubai that sold more per unit on day one than any other brand ever. Earlier this year, she expanded into lip products and is growing internationally as well, including launches in the U.K., Australia and France.

Christine Luby, 33 COFOUNDER, PINROSE

Erika Shumate, 32 COFOUNDER, PINROSE

Christine Luby and Erika Shumate met at the Stanford Graduate School of Business in 2011 and launched Pinrose three years later. Their concept: Create a Millennial-oriented scent experience that combines art and science, using a proprietary quiz that results in a personalized scent wardrobe. The idea worked: In the past two years, Pinrose has blossomed into an award-winning fragrance house whose scents are sold online as well as at Sephora and Nordstrom bricks-and-mortar locations and on QVC.

Natalie Mackey, 32 FOUNDER, GLOW CONCEPT

From finance to fashion to beauty entrepreneur: Natalie Mackey created Glow Concept in 2015 after falling in love with the beauty category during a licensing negotiation for a fashion business. Since then, she has launched Winky Lux, an Instagram-driven makeup brand that launches products every 15-30 days and drives

sales through collaborations with digital influencers, and more recently acquired the nail and lip brand, Laqa & Co. Mackey’s mantra: Deliver newness—and do it quickly.

Mita Mallick, 38DIRECTOR, DIVERSITY OUTREACH AND INCLUSION, UNILEVER

Alan Jope, Unilever’s president of personal care, has been quite clear that brands without a social purpose have no place in the company’s beauty portfolio. Mita Mallick is a key lieutenant in the effort. After leading the launch of the Vaseline Healing Project in the U.S., in which the brand donates products to disaster relief efforts, she was recently tapped to head up the company’s diversity efforts, including cochairing GALvanize, Unilever’s internal women’s organization that supports the growth of female executives.

Josie Maran, 38 FOUNDER, JOSIE MARAN COSMETICS

Model-turned-mogul Josie Maran kicked off the craze for Argan oil and she hasn’t looked back. Now almost a decade old, her namesake brand is a leading force in the natural beauty sector, expected to ring up more than $125 million in sales. A staple of Sephora and QVC, Maran is the undisputed green queen of the Indie beauty scene.

MAJO

R!

BEAUTY STA

RS UNDER 4

0

WWD BEAUTY INC 25

BE

TH

PIC

KE

NS

PH

OT

OG

RA

PH

BY

CA

LL

IE L

IPK

IN; J

ES

SIC

A R

ICH

AR

DS

BY

SIO

UX

NE

SI,

AL

ICIA

YO

ON

BY

HY

E-R

YO

UN

G M

IN

Stephi Maron, 26 FOUNDER AND CEO, BLUSHINGTON MAKEUP AND BEAUTY LOUNGE

At just 21 years old, Stephi Maron had an “ah-ha” moment after realizing there were no professional, yet affordable makeup service options available on the market. Thus was born Blushington Makeup and Beauty Lounge, which opened in West Hollywood in 2011 and has since expanded into Dallas, Newport Beach and New York, using and selling brands including Becca, Julie Hewett, Laura Geller and Kevyn Aucoin.

Melody McCloskey, 31 COFOUNDER AND CEO, STYLESEAT

There are no shortage of bookings apps on the market, but StyleSeat has powered forward with first-mover advantage. The brainchild of Melody McCloskey, a former TV exec, StyleSeat is now the largest marketplace for beauty bookings, powering $2.3 billion in appointments since its launch in 2011, with a customer base reaching almost 10 million.

Candace V. Mitchell, 28COFOUNDER AND CEO, TECHTURIZED INC.

Computer scientist Candace Mitchell founded Techturized to bring technology to hair texture. The company’s first product, Myavana, is an online-based personalized hair-care service that recommends products and services based

on a scientific analysis of a consumer’s hair type and texture. This is just the beginning for Mitchell, who was chosen as one of the first entrepreneurs by Sephora for its Accelerator Program, which helps grow the next generation of female-led beauty start-ups.

Michelle Phan, 29COFOUNDER, IPSY

While her namesake line with L’Oréal didn’t work out as planned, Michelle Phan has come roaring back with Ipsy, the sample subscription service she cofounded, which closed $100 million in Series B funding last September. Phan, the makeup artist turned digital pioneer, still commands a sizable audience, with a global community that numbers seven million strong and growing.

Beth Pickens, 38 MANAGING DIRECTOR, WILLIAM BLAIR

Investment banker Beth Pickens has an eye for beauty and the dedication to match. As a managing director at William Blair, she’s the one who sold men’s grooming business Harry’s its German manufacturing facility, and who handled the sale of Mio Skincare to The Hut Group.

Jessica Richards, 31 OWNER AND FOUNDER, SHEN

Unable to find a replacement for her favorite skin-care cream in Brooklyn, Jessica

Richards took matters into her own hands and opened Shen. It turns out Richards wasn’t alone. Stocked with hard-to-find niche brands like Amanda Lacey, Ilia and Su-Man, Shen quickly became a must-shop for hip locals and beauty aficionados as far afield as Europe and Asia. Richards has also attracted the attention of non-endemic retailers—including Free People, where she is overseeing the brand’s first foray into beauty.

Gina Ritchie, 37BUYING DIRECTOR, BEAUTY AND ACCESSORIES, LIBERTY OF LONDON

This retail superstar has built an enviable résumé with stints at Harvey Nichols, Harrods and QVC U.K., but it’s at Liberty of London where Gina Ritchie really shines. Under Ritchie, beauty has become Liberty’s number-one division (up from number five when she joined in 2009), accounting for 26 percent of overall sales. The retailer is the top global door for such brands as Le Labo, Byredo, Hourglass and Frédéric Malle. As for Liberty’s second-largest category? That would be Accessories—which Ritchie also oversees, natch.

Dianna Ruth, 35 CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER, MILK MAKEUP

In a year of cooler-than-cool makeup launches, Dianna Ruth made Milk Makeup a true standout. The product developer—who’s clocked time at Hard Candy, Benefit and Laura Mercier—created a slew of first-to-market must-have items like Lip Markers, Weekend Lash Stain and Hydrating Oil Stick that look to become cult classics.

Julia Sloan, 36 VICE PRESIDENT, GLOBAL COMMUNICATIONS AND FASHION RELATIONS, NARS

Buzz builds brands but breaking through the clutter is tougher than ever. Nars’ Julia Sloan has catapulted Nars to a prime position by creating strategic relationships with fashion designers, celebs and makeup artists and being an early adaptor in the digital realm, where she oversees the brand’s e-commerce, digital media buying and social media efforts.

Jill Stutzbach, 37 DIVISIONAL MERCHANDISE MANAGER, PRESTIGE COSMETICS, ULTA BEAUTY

Thanks to Jill Stutzbach and her team, Ulta Beauty has become a major player in prestige beauty, which is now the retailer’s largest sales-volume business and is leading the chain in comp-store growth. She’s the point person for brands such as Urban Decay, BareMinerals and It Cosmetics, and helped drive Ulta to unprecedented growth in the color cosmetics category.

Tristan Walker, 31 FOUNDER AND CEO, WALKER AND COMPANY BRANDS

Silicon Valley star Tristan Walker harnessed his background as director of business development at Foursquare and entrepreneur-

in-residence at Andreessen Horowitz when creating Walker and Company Brands. His vision is to become the P&G of personal-care products for people of color; its first brand, Bevel, a shave system, launched as a subscription service and has since expanded into select Target stores.

Emily Weiss, 31 FOUNDER AND CEO, INTO THE GLOSS AND GLOSSIER

A pioneer in translating content into commerce, Emily Weiss has tapped into the Millennial mind-set with her pitch perfect Website, Into the Gloss, and growing product line, Glossier. In less than 24 months, she’s managed to create a cult following for myriad products like Boy Brow and Balm Dotcom. Both personally and professionally, she defines the gestalt of a new generation of beauty consumers.

Alicia Yoon, 34 FOUNDER AND CEO, PEACH & LILY

Alicia Yoon didn’t create the K-Wave. But this Korean-born Harvard Business School grad has successfully parlayed it into a multiplatform business combining content, retail and soon, products. A self-proclaimed product junkie, Yoon’s company brings the best Korean skin-care brands to retailers like Sephora and Macy’s, and has just announced plans for a product line of its own to boot.

WWD BEAUTY INC 26 PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL CLINARD

my Fan lists her title as general man-ager of Onomie Beauty on her LinkedIn page, but truth be told, Fan thinks that title is virtually mean-ingless.

“We don’t use our LinkedIn titles here. We don’t have a sense of a hierarchy,” says the 27-year-old. “I consider my title resident firefighter. I oversee every-thing from operations to marketing. One of the easi-est ways to prioritize my time is which fire I have to put out next.”

Such disregard for the traditional parameters of office culture are typical of Millennials, the genera-tion of 19 to 35 year olds whose take-charge, plugged-in, social-mission driven, fast-paced, collaborative approach is upending traditional corporate conduct. Companies are being remade to suit their person-alities, and the implications are vast, not just for cubicle manufacturers, but also for how larger, estab-lished companies attract young talent—beyond just the allure of a paycheck.

“It’s not a wave about age or youth. It’s a wave of change,” says Adina Grigore, 31, cofounder and chief executive officer of S.W. Basics. “It is innovative and different, and the products are selling because they are different, but also because the companies and the corporate cultures are different.”

Millennial-led beauty brands aren’t replicating the ways of their predecessors or larger competitors. They are looking outside of the industry for inspira-tion on how to lead their companies. Dan Schaw-bel, partner and research director at Future Work-place, reports that Millennials covet posts at media and technology companies, where the perception is that employees can make a big impact quickly. Their company role models are firms such as Warby Parker, Casper, Everlane, Tesla, Amazon and Toms. “We definitely look outside of the beauty industry for most of our inspiration,” says Claire Moses, 26, creative director of Verb Products, a hair-care line, naming Casper, Warby Parker and Everlane among brands that inspire her.

When it comes to attracting young talent in the workplace, it’s

anything but business as usual.

BY RACHEL BROWN

Dan Brenner, 27, chief executive officer of Insta-Natural, reveres Amazon and Tesla for their broad visions and agility. He says Amazon considers its “company more like a platform than like an entity. They are super opportunistic,” he explains, “and they see what is going on and implore their people to think innovatively.”

When it comes to attracting Millennial talent, the knock on legacy beauty conglomerates is that they’re plodding and unresponsive. “At a lot of larger compa-nies, if they want to make a shampoo, for instance, it will take them 24 months. We built our Bevel kit in six months, and customers were buying it six months later,” says Tristan Walker, 31, founder and ceo of Walker & Co. Brands Inc. “By the time these larger companies are making their first product, we are making at least two or three.”

Walker recruited largely from outside of the industry, assembling a team of 25 without a single one having a beauty background. “It allows us to innovate, ask the right questions and be courageous, and not be marred by past history,” he says.

Employee diversity that’s not limited to race and gender is also important. Traditional résumé barom-ets are changing. “You have to be smarter these days and more inclusive. The word diversity is broader than ever,” says Schawbel, noting Ernst & Young dropped education prerequisites. Walker adds, “We want the largest number of rich perspectives, period. We want to be diverse not only from a race, gender or income perspective. Our folks run the gamut com-pletely to get a diversity of opinion.”

For a company like StyleSeat, that includes geo-graphic diversity. “A lot of our community is in the South and Midwest,” says cofounder and ceo Melody McCloskey, 31. “If we had just employees born and raised in San Francisco, it would be doing our com-munity a disservice.”

The well-documented sense of entitlement among Millennials means that they tend to shun traditional corporate hierarchies as well. “Millennials are more about transformational leadership than older genera-tions, especially Boomers, who are about autocratic leadership,” says Schawbel.

A

MAJO

R!

BEAUTY STA

RS UNDER 4

0

Work Permit

WWD BEAUTY INC 27

So a visit to a beauty company led by the sub-40 set often looks different than a traditional environ-ment, modeled not on the corner office, but on the tech ideal of open-floor plans, airy lofts and glass-encased conference rooms, if there are conference rooms. Meetings often occur in community spaces, whether inside or on a walk in the park. The architec-ture accentuates a spirit of cooperation, and blurs the lines between departments and job functions.

At StyleSeat, no one has an office. “I can see every-one in the company, and they all can see me,” says McCloskey. “I have worked in more corporate envi-ronments where there is a feeling of heaviness when you go to work. I don’t want that. I want hip-hop music playing, plants and great lighting. People who want more of that cubical type of environment don’t want to work here. It helps us attract people who have the same values as we do.”

Onomie’s workplace is open literally and figura-tively. “It’s a laid-back and casual culture,” Fan says. “The biggest thing I want to encourage is not only col-laboration, but not worrying about making mistakes.”

When Brenner joined InstaNatural, he sought to make his employees’ experiences unlike those he had previously at Charles Schwab, where he found cor-porate striations restrictive. He instituted so-called “meeting ride-alongs,” allowing employees to attend meetings that aren’t their department’s meetings. Today, 40 percent of InstaNatural’s meetings have one or more people riding along.

Soliciting input extends past the four walls of the office. At 33, Pinrose cofounder Christine Luby is the self-proclaimed “senior delegate” of the seven people who work at her fragrance brand where the average age is 27. She says the younger employees taught her to be less controlling over the product development process by involving Pinrose’s community of custom-ers. “Our scent development is largely crowd-sourced, and that can be directly attributed to the 23 and 24 year olds who wanted to try it out,” says Luby, detail-ing Pinrose now sends samples to its top 20 custom-ers prior to releasing them. “It allows us to give our customers what they want, and it is a big differentia-tor between us and larger companies.”

Being immersed in the community means being on social media. Snapchat, Instagram, Facebook and Twitter, which has replaced traditional consumer research. At companies filled with young profession-als, Schawbel says, a bring-your-device movement is taking hold. Employees “want to text and tweet on their time as long as they are getting work done,” he says. Millennial executives don’t view social media, whether it’s directly job-related or not, as a diver-sion. They view it as integral to their businesses.

Zak Normandin, 32, ceo of Dirty Lemon, says his employees are constantly trolling the web for “fun stuff to repost or ideas we can communicate to make the brand better. Their job is to stay relevant and that requires them to always come up with new ideas and that doesn’t happen in a box. They are empowered to become actively engaged.”

Delving into the technology-enabled interac-tion of Millennials has ramifications for commerce, as Dirty Lemon is very aware. The detox beverage specialist has launched an ordering system relying on text messages. “This is the most familiar way that Millennials communicate,” says Normandin. “So, rather than having to take out your credit cards and open an app, you literally in two text messages say I want more of whatever product and, within the next 24 hours, you are going to have that product on your doorstep. One of the big things we are trying to solve is how to make things more convenient and acces-sible for the Millennial and modern consumer.”

Many of the Millennial-managed beauty compa-nies consider themselves tech companies as much as beauty companies, with a willingness to take risks that can be quickly analyzed to make adjustments. “Things cycle really quickly. We will launch a prod-uct and veraciously improve it. That’s the beta model that a lot of technology companies do,” says Brenner.

Beauty companies have started to talk about themselves in the broader terms, too. Sabbatical Beauty heralds itself as “on a mission to change the beauty industry.” S.W. Basics proclaims, “Skincare isn’t going to change the world, but shouldn’t it at least try?” The sloganeering can be cheesy, but a nobler pursuit above hawking the merch is signifi-cant. As Gallup underscores in its report, “How Mil-lennials Want to Work and Live,” members of the generation “don’t just work for a paycheck—they want a purpose. Work must have a meaning. They want to work for organizations with a mission.”

Still, this is a generation that is evolving faster than the lifespan of a Snapchat communiqué. Grigo-re’s flat hierarchy has evolved into a more definitive, decision-based leadership style, for example, while others are questioning the ethos of constant connec-tivity. Over at Verb Products, employees now unplug for 10 minutes or so daily for a meditation break. “It has allowed everyone to take a moment to reevalu-ate and not get too stressed,” says Moses. “It is just shampoo. As I get older, I realize that.”

28

MAJO

R!

BEAUTY STA

RS UNDER 4

0

Winning idea: Jamie Kern Lima in front of the myriad awards It Cosmetics has won.

rich

Strike It

PHOTOGRAPHS BY AHMED KLINK

With a laser focus on hero

products and a distribution

strategy that harnesses

her personal powers

of persuasion, It Cosmetics

founder Jamie Kern Lima

has built one of the fastest-

growing brands in beauty.

BY RACHEL STRUGATZ

WWD BEAUTY INC 30

To her audience, she is everywoman—and highly relatable. But don’t let the smile fool you. By combining that common touch with an iron-clad determination and a business acumen honed at Columbia Business School, Lima has propelled It Cosmetics to be one of the fastest-growing beauty companies in the world. Industry sources say the eight-year-old brand is primed to do over $400 million in retail sales in 2016, a 30 percent increase from last year's $300 million.

Lima got her big break on QVC in 2010, and to this day, the brand appears on the shopping network about 250 times per year (besides Lima, two other staffers routinely appear on TV to sell It to millions of custom-ers). The brand is even headquartered in Jersey City, New Jersey, because it’s only a two-hour drive from QVC, and being based in New York City would tack on another hour each way to the commute, Lima explains.

“Our mission is for women to look in the mirror and see what’s right. How many [brands] really do that?” Lima says. It’s also not many founders who will willingly remove all of their makeup on live TV to reveal their skin—flaws and all, an action that has endeared Lima to her audience and helped her build it exponentially.

“What we’re doing is bigger than myself. I used to feel—especially as someone with rosacea—a certain way when it came to beauty,” Lima says. “Now I don't. What drives me is knowing that we’re changing the way women look in the mirror.”

Lima says that her skin started to change in her late 20s while she was a news anchor and journalist in Washington and Portland, Ore., (she won five Edward R. Murrow jour-nalism awards for writing and reporting). She lost her eyebrows and developed rosacea, and soon found she was spending her salary on makeup and beauty products so she could cover these issues on camera. Lima became obsessed with finding a formula that was full-coverage enough to cover her skin that didn’t “look horrible on camera.”

The inability to find such product became

her entrée into the beauty business and It Cosmetics was born in her apartment with her husband, Paulo. Within two years, she made her first appearance on QVC.

“At that point, you have one chance, 10 minutes and if you do well, wonderful—and if not, you won’t come back,” Lima says of her first appearance on QVC when she went on air with Bye Bye Under Eye. “I showed my bare face—rosacea and hyperpigmentation and all. That had never been done before. Women want to see, “Does this really work?” They deal with acne and want to know if it will cover it…[so] I showed my bare face. It was a big risk.”

As they say, no risk, no reward. About 6,000 units of the product sold out com-pletely within 10 minutes. That was just the beginning. Today, It Cosmeics is sold in every single Ulta Beauty store—which will be 974 nationwide by year’s end—and starting this September, 100 Sephora doors in top-per-forming markets from New York to Los Ange-les will carry nine exclusive skin-care stock-keeping units.

It Cosmetics would never have experi-enced such enormous and speedy growth if not for Lima’s involvement in getting the brand out there, according to industry ana-lysts—from hundreds of on-air appearances to in-store events. Factor in the concurrent emergence of social media and millions of satisfied consumers expressing their grati-tude to the brand (Lima calls them It Girls) on various digital platforms and the result is a dedicated customer base with loyalty levels not seen since Leslie Blodgett launched the now legendary BareMinerals on QVC.

“[Lima’s] got a very loyal following and a very large customer base—she has one of our largest,” says Ellen Lennon, director of mer-chandising for beauty at QVC. “She really res-onates with them. They love her moments of truth on air when she removes her makeup and shows her own skin concerns and puts out there the challenges she’s had in her life and the struggles she’s had to find the right makeup for her skin."

That said, if customers received the product and found it wasn’t doing what they expected it to, there’s no way they would have kept buying it at the level they continue to, Lennon says, noting that It Cosmetics notched up over one million QVC customers in the last year alone. It has sold millions of items in the six years since originally debut-ing on QVC in 2010 when Bye Bye Under Eye sold about 6,000 units in just under 11 min-utes (more than 1.7 million units have been sold to date). Lima’s Celebration Foundation has sold more than two million units to date and remains the second best-selling product from the collection after Your Skin But Better CC+ Cream with SPF 50+, which Lennon said is the “most productive item in terms of dol-lars per minute.” Last Year It Cosmetics won nine QVC Customer Choice Beauty Awards.

In addition to QVC, Lima has tapped into infomercials to drive sales. Powerhouse pro-ducer Guthy-Renker took a minority stake in It Cosmetics in 2013 and a show selling exclusive products—a Bye Bye Foundation Kit that comes with either five or seven products retailing for $39.95 or $49.95, respectively—started airing in full national rollout over a year ago. A second show is in the works to air during the first quarter of next year.

While he declined to give a sales figure, Boris Shimanovsky, chief creative officer at Guthy-Renker, says reactions to the infomer-cial were strong from the get-go, noting that Lima’s connection to viewers is paramount. Shimanovsky explains that Lima is not perfect; she’s a “real person” who has “real skin issues” and consumers relate to this. “Her story is very unique in the way she tells it, but it’s not unique to the people watching her on TV,” he says.

“We present the problem that other people are seeing with their skin in a way that people can relate to and we show them a solution,” Shimanovsky adds. “We knew we had a hit on our hands, and we had to catch up with inven-tory levels. We’re prepared to be very bullish with buying media. Now that we have inven-tory, we’re moving very aggressively.”

Private-equity firm TSG Equity Partners also made a minority investment in It in 2012. Blythe Jack, managing director at TSG, declines to disclose specifics but the firm has a “significant minority stake” in the brand.

Jamie Kern Lima is building an army of It Girls—women spanning Millennials to Baby Boomers who pledge allegiance to her problem-solution products that promise “Your Skin But Better” (a CC cream) or “Bye Bye Under Eye” (a concealer).

“Her story is very unique in the way she tells it, but it’s not unique to the

people watching her on TV.”—Boris Shimanovsky

MAJO

R!

BEAUTY STA

RS UNDER 4

0

WWD BEAUTY INC 31

PH

OT

OG

RA

PH

BY

GE

OR

GE

CH

INS

EE

“First and foremost, they have incredibly effective products and they transform how you look. It sounds simple but it’s harder to actually execute on that concept,” Jack says.

But it was another factor that led TSG to take a “very big risk” in investing in the company at such an early stage (it was only sold on QVC and the shopping channel in Canada at the time).

The convergence of skin care and cos-metics—whether it’s color-infused skin care or vice versa, according to Jack—is where beauty is heading, citing an indus-try trend towards the convergence of the two. It Cosmetics has been a pioneer in the space, she says.

While the brand’s TV business remains significant, sources report that retail eclipsed TV a year-and-a-half ago, fueled by sales at Ulta and international Sephora doors.

“Women are telling people and their friends, sisters and daughters are coming in [to stores]. That’s huge,” Lima says. “We’re hero-product driven; we don’t do trend and we try to launch things when we believe they will be game-changing in their innova-tion—but more importantly, life-changing in the hands of real women.”

Lima’s persona aside, her approach to building a line of “hero products” versus becoming a color brand, has accelerated the trajectory of the company. Retailers call her thoughtful in product development, eschew-ing trends and the temptation to continually release new launches in favor of releasing targeted products with a skin-care angle.

Those hero products include Your Skin But Better CC+ Cream with SPF 50+, $38; Bye Bye Under Eye Antiaging Concealer, $24; Bye Bye Pores Silk HD Antiaging Micro-Powder, $24; Brow Power Universal Eyebrow Pencil, $24, and Superhero Mascara, $24.

“It has resisted the temptation of follow-ing a trend that is of-the-moment. [Jamie is] very focused on fewer, bigger, better launches and only launching a few big stockkeeping units a year when so many brands go down a different path that’s often messier—on the front end and the back end,” says Tara Simon, senior vice president of merchandising, prestige color, specialty brands, skin care, fragrance and trend development at Ulta Beauty.

Simon says there is only one other brand that has a linear boutique the size of It Cosmetics’ in Ulta—Urban Decay—noting that It “never behaved like a normal, typical brand.” What she means: The line entered 306 Ulta stores in September of 2013 and performed so well that the collection

was added to the balance of the chain six months later, an unusually fast rollout plan.

Additionally, Ulta expanded It’s original six feet of in-store space to nine feet, some-thing Simon says, “We almost never do.” Almost a year-and-a-half later, this space doubled in August 2014, with the release of It Brushes for Ulta in all Ulta Beauty stores.

Meanwhile, the Bye Bye products have become their own franchise, and a new Bye Bye Under Eye Illumination and Bye Bye Makeup melting cleansing balm will be among the exclusive skus to debut at Sephora come September. Lima says the sulfate-free “pure skin-care makeup remover” does double duty, and can be used with or without water to remove all traces of makeup and soften skin.

When asked about venturing into skin care in a more significant way, though, Lima’s caution around the category becomes evident.

She says even though it’s been and remains the most popular request for the past seven years, the brand had yet to launch a single skin-care sku until five months ago: Confidence in a Cream.

“You can launch a full skin-care [line] in five seconds with 3,000 skus, but we built this brand on hero products that are prob-lem solution. We have built a lot of trust,” Lima says.

She calls the $48 “super hydrating, skin-transforming, moisturizing cream” worth the wait, citing clinical studies that revealed the following: 100 percent of participants said skin was more hydrated and 81 percent said pores appeared smaller and fine lines and wrinkles appeared less noticeable.

“We’re now on the skin-care radar,” she says.

For William Susman, managing director at Threadstone Advisors, It Cosmetics is a brand built on “instant results.” Millennials are the demographic driving the company, he says, and they want to look and feel great right now.

While he posits that venturing into correc-tive skin care would be the next logical place to go, it could be “curious for the company’s future,” as they have been so successful at providing their customers with short-term beauty solutions. Susman says the brand should stick to who they are, because “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

“One of the challenges for a company like this is that while Jamie has built a very large team—and an accomplished one—I do think the business starts with her and ends with her. Therefore, the next generation of It [Cos-

metics] will need to adjust for her role,” Sus-man says, who notes that future ownership has endless possibilities.

“With private-equity involvement, at some point something will happen, but today there’s no urgency for any action,” he says.

International expansion presents another area of opportunity. Currently, the vast majority of business comes from the U.S.—but this is changing. It Cosmetics launched in Sephora in Australia 18 months ago and has been sold via The Shopping Channel in Canada for seven years. On April 15, It aired on QVC in the U.K. and became the most suc-cessful launch in QVC U.K.’s history; in Sep-tember, the brand’s full color line of 125 skus will debut in Southeast Asia Sephora doors in Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore.

Still, Lima remains firmly focused on her strategy. Developing and bringing to market hero products is what she wants to be best at. And the irony of trying to secure distribu-tion in the early days even as she grows glob-ally isn’t lost on the entrepreneur. “Someone once told me winning in cosmetics is a game of perfect execution,” Lima says. “That has always stuck with me. Now we have so many retailers approaching us, but we’re expand-ing thoughtfully because I don’t want to do it unless we can execute perfectly.”

Hail to the Heroes Key products from It Cosmetics.

PH

OT

OG

RA

PH

S B

Y J

OS

HU

A S

CO

TT

AN

D P

AT

RIC

K M

AC

LE

OD

WWD BEAUTY INC 32 ILLUSTRATION BY GLUEKIT

THE CHANGE AGENTS

In an ever-evolving beauty landscape, this year’s speakers at the WWD Beauty CEO Summit pointed the way to tomorrow.

BY ALLISON COLLINS

The Millennial impact is in full effect.

The demographic dominated the conversation at the WWD Beauty CEO Summit, held in May in Palm Beach, Fla. Number-ing almost 83 million in the U.S.

alone, Millennials were the main agenda item, a topic that touched on authenticity, the impact of social media and major industry shifts such as the evolution in traditional beauty values.

“Change is constant,” said William Lauder, chair-man of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. “If you are stand-ing still, you are going backward. We are in a con-sumer industry and that means you are running up the down escalator.…You have to be running faster than the speed of the escalator to make some prog-

WWD BEAUTY INC 33

ress. If you're not, someone else will.”Other key topics included the increasing impor-

tance of beauty services across a spectrum of chan-nels, creating memorable experiences that give con-sumers a reason to shop in store versus online and an industrywide focus on improved training to give beauty advisers a deeper well of expertise.

The Young RunMillennial spending is on track to reach $2.5 tril-lion by 2020, according to Meredith Corp.’s Women 2020 research study. Of that, 73 percent of the Mil-lennial women surveyed said looking beautiful is important to them, compared with 57 percent of Baby Boomers.

To capitalize on that, brands need to make sure they connect with what Millennials are looking for—identifiable, individualized beauty. Jenny Fran-kel, a serial entrepreneur who cofounded Cover FX, detailed a store visit with her two teenaged daugh-ters (and the inspiration for Nudestix), Ally and Taylor, where they felt alienated by the glamorous, airbrushed models in the advertising campaigns. “Aspirational beauty is no longer flawless,” she said. “It became very clear that there was an obvi-ous neglect, or disconnect, for real, natural-looking beauty, by brands and influencers.”

Thus was born Nudestix—a line described as Crayola meets Chanel. While the business is just over one year old, the message is resonating: Nud-estix is sold in Sephora and on QVC, among others.

Be True to YouTo win over today’s educated and picky customers, brands need to remain focused on their core DNA, emphasizing differentiation rather than imitation. It Cosmetics, which is on its way to sales of $400 million this year, according to industry sources, has experienced exponential growth through staying true to its strategy of creating hero products that help women cover skin concerns. “When we started having success as a brand is when real women started spreading our authentic brand mission and DNA,” said founder Jamie Kern Lima. “When women find a product that truly works for them, they tell people. It was real women getting real results—that’s what kept our company alive in the early years.”

We’re Engaged!Engagement is the key to social media—not just having followers, but creating a meaningful dialog with them. Anastasia Beverly Hills has leveraged social media to grow its business, particularly Insta-gram. “Social media changed absolutely everything about us,” said Anastasia Soare. “I knew that I had the best products. I knew that I had the best tech-nique,” said the entrepreneur. “[Today] I post a pic-ture and a woman in Pakistan answers. I used to go to Nordstrom and touch—how many?— 100 people a day. I put up a post, and I will get 100,000 com-ments.” That level of social media engagement has reportedly helped the brand’s sales quadruple.

The Perfect TouchIn-person engagement—especially through beauty-related services—is increasingly important as con-sumers focus less on material possessions and more on experiences. “The heck with buying stuff any-more, we want services,” said Sarah Quinlan, senior vice president and group head of market insights at MasterCard Advisors. “This is the biggest growing area. So if you sell stuff, what do you have to do? You’ve got to put service in with it.”

In the digital era, services create a memory. “We see services as a revenue opportunity, but even more importantly, bringing engagement into beauty,” said David Kimbell, chief merchandising and marketing officer for Ulta Beauty. “When you walk into one of our stores and the services are really humming, those people feel a sense of beauty happening. They can hear it, see it and smell it.”

For retailers, offering services on the selling floor provides insight into consumer behavior, said Bluemercury founder Marla Malcolm Beck. “[The customer] wants services out on a store floor, where there is activity and action, not in a quiet room,” she said. “It’s one thing to know the statistics on your customer, it’s another to see them in their store habits. We learn by talking to and watching them.”

In the fashion sector, Rebecca Minkoff has upgraded its in-store experience with experiential retail, said Uri Minkoff, ceo, including everything from hip-hop yoga classes to bringing in Smashbox and Donald Robertson, who hand-painted Minkoff products. “If you create entertainment in store, you have people in the store, but it’s that extended peer-to-peer network that goes out there and creates FOMO [fear of missing out],” said Minkoff. “It creates an external surge of traffic on our social and e-com-merce areas, which yields higher conversion.”

People PowerIn order to provide in-demand beauty services, brands need to have well-trained professionals. The industry is facing a deficit, as skin therapists and similar professions aren’t seen as viable ways to make a living. It was a point Dermalogica’s chief executive officer Aurelian Lis honed in on. “Eleven dollars an hour is not going to cut it in the long term. We’re not going to have long-term employees who are building a career, who are proud of what they do, if they can’t feed, never mind their fam-ily, but even themselves,” Lis said. “The need for licensed individuals is going up substantially, yet the supply is not there. As an industry, we’re head-ing to a crunch time, which is not very pretty.”

Walgreens and MAC Cosmetics also spoke of the need for trained professionals. As it looks to amp up its beauty department, Walgreens is planning to add 3,400 beauty consultants, said group vice president and general merchandise manager for beauty and personal care, Lauren Brindley. At MAC, the focus remains on training makeup artists with boot-camp-style training, which the brand has in 14 countries, said Karen Buglisi Weiler, global brand president. The concept started in India, where

Buglisi noticed a lack of makeup artistry in MAC stores there. “If we’re basing everything that we do on makeup artistry, this is a problem,” Weiler said.

So she started makeup boot camps, where art-ists “do makeup, wash it off, do makeup, wash it off, do makeup, wash it off, again and again and again until they get it,” Weiler said. MAC’s boot-camp pro-gram has touched more than 2,000 artists. “This is now the way we go to market because we’re creat-ing agility…this is one way to create the service that we expect and the artistry quickly,” Weiler said.

Trading Up, Take TwoSavvy brands and retailers are focusing on upgrad-ing the consumer experience. Walgreens, for example, is elevating and differentiating the beauty shopping experience by adding new brands and beauty experts in store. Wal-Mart, too, is evolving its beauty department with upgraded displays, said Jody Pinson, vice president of merchandising for beauty. “We are committed to upgrading our stores and fixtures,” she said. “We are going to understand the brands that we want to carry and the quality that the customer is looking for—this is how we are going to continue to build credibility at Wal-Mart.”

To Err Is Human, to Change DivineFrankly assessing missteps can lead to produc-tive future planning. Several leaders at the summit admitted to making mistakes, but also learning from them to chart a path for future growth. When Masa-hiko Uotani took over at Shiseido, he found the com-pany suffering from declining sales, a lack of invest-ment and increasing inventory. “The challenge for Shiseido is to become a strong global company. We must change quickly, become more results-oriented, create speed and get rid of bureaucracy,” said Uotani. “At the same time, we need to embrace our heritage of high-quality products and caring for people like a family. Shiseido needs a transformation.”

P&G, too, has had its woes. Patrice Louvet, group president of P&G Beauty, reflected on mul-tiple missteps, including deviating too far from the core Olay Regenerist product and making too many beauty acquisitions a decade ago. “Under-stand what’s old is still new,” Louvet said. “We get tired of innovations long before the people who use our products do. We move onto the next new thing when there’s still abundant opportunities to grow existing products.”

In retrospect, P&G realized that instead of focus-ing on getting more women to use Regenerist, it added too many products to the line. “We should have been focusing like a laser on creating trial of Regenerist and new Olay users,” Louvet said.

As has been well-reported, P&G is divesting the bulk of its beauty brands, and holding on to core brands including Pantene, Head & Shoulders, SK-II and Olay so it can do just that. Concluded Louvet, “Clarity and consistency pay off…the principal is sound and it applies to high-end luxury products just as much as it applies to an everyday product like shampoo.”

LAST CALL

SWEAT EQUITYYou know the adage: Sound mind, sound body. Here’s how some top beauty execs stay in shape.

34 WWD BEAUTY INC

P

HO

TO

GR

AP

H B

Y H

AR

RY

LA

NG

DO

N/G

ET

TY

IMA

GE

S

“When I have time on the weekends, I do a seven-mile walk, which includes several San Francisco hills (my favorite is Coit Tower.) My other go-to is Pilates TRX. When I travel, I always pack a strength band with me so I can do some resistance exercises.” —JOY CHEN, CHAIRMAN AND CEO, H20+ BEAUTY

“My fitness regimen is anchored in the energy, focus and power I get from running. On my running days, I get up at 5:30, glance through e-mail, then I am out the door.”

—ALEX KEITH, PRESIDENT, GLOBAL SKIN AND PERSONAL CARE, P&G

“I do ballet and weight lifting. I have recently resumed pointe classes. It’s the only activity that enables me to completely unplug as it requires my full attention from head to toes. I weight-lift with a trainer once a week. Psychologically it gives me a sense of empowerment, independence and self-reliance.”

—INGRID JACKEL, CEO, YES TO INC.

“I maintain a vigorous workout routine with three sessions of cardio and weight training respectively per week—even if it means I have to get up at 5, regardless of whether I am traveling or at home.”

—KAREN BUGLISI WEILER, GLOBAL BRAND PRESIDENT,

MAC COSMETICS

“Weekends are my time to get my intense workouts in. I spend time with my trainer on Saturday and then get in several hours of road cycling and some tennis on Sunday. During the week, I get the blood pumping on the treadmill and also do weights. I like to think that my rounds of golf qualify as a strenuous workout...but that’s probably a stretch.”

—PATRICE LOUVET, GROUP PRESIDENT, GLOBAL P&G BEAUTY

“I play beach volleyball once a week with a bunch of women and then once a week I play a coed game. Running around in the sand is an amazing, exhausting workout and, when you have a great partner and great rhythm, nothing is more exciting than bump, set, spike.”

—WENDE ZOMNIR, CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER, URBAN DECAY

“No rice, no bread, no spaghetti, no soba, but a lot of beef and eggs with once-a-week intense workout and golf with my wife.”

—MASAHIKO UOTANI, PRESIDENT AND GROUP CEO, SHISEIDO CO. LTD.

“My go-to workout is a mix of three activities: playing soccer twice a week, biking on the weekends and walking our dogs on the beach at least once a week. They are all deliberately outdoors because my fitness is about body and mind.”

—SHASHI BATRA, CEO, CREDO BEAUTY

“Every morning I do 10 minutes of yoga with my cat, Rosie. I try and run a 5k twice a week, and do serious Pilates once a week. And then on the weekends I do laps in my pool in the country.”

—CAROL HAMILTON, GROUP PRESIDENT, L’ORÉAL LUXE USA

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

AT 212 256 8103 OR PFIRESTONE@WWD.COM

SKIN DEEP

Miami SwimShow Preview

+ The Latest in

Intimate Apparel

G O E S

Issue: July 13Ad Close: June 29

Materials: July 4

An Advertising Opportunity