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radisiacal pied--terre: seaside at The Fairmont Orchid.

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From hiking and horseback riding

to seaside yoga and stargazing,

Hawaiis culture and sun

provide the perfect cure.

B ai Crmi

BigislandBliss

ve been to Hawaii before, but never to its largest isle and

am eager to see what all the buzz is about. The baby

of the archipelago born less than a million years

ago the Big Island is known for its stunning diversity

which includes everything from tropical rainforests

and otherworldly lava deserts to uncrowded beaches of

white, black, and green (yes, green) sand. Theres even

an active volcano (the most active on the planet) to keep

things interesting.

Since sun is a non-negotiable requirement, Robert and I

opt for the islands Kona side, zeroing in on the Kohala area

which claims the highest number of sunny days of anywhere

in the entire state. Having heard great things about The

Fairmont Orchid, we choose it for our paradisiacal pied-

-terre. Especially appealing to us: Unlike so many resorts

that simply appease sun-starved visitors with chaise lounges

and swim-up bars, The Fairmont Orchid goes the extra

mile, offering a wide range of outdoor activities, many with

a cultural focus.

Here, you can learn how to paddle Hawaiian outrigger

canoes, try your hand at shoreline holoholo (fishing) from

a double-hulled canoe, embark with a guide on a two-hour

kayaking adventure in Pauoa Bay, or snorkel in the company

of eagle rays and honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) directly

from the hotels picture-perfect white-sand beach. The

Fairmont Orchids affable beachboys reminiscent of

the buff Waikiki beachboys of decades past direct all

activities. Master surfers all, they love getting novices up on

a board for the first time. So, if youre dying to learn how to

hang ten, this is the place.

i

More Big Island Bliss on page 28 P

Luau dancers light up the night.

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In an earlier life, I might have considered surfing lessons

myself. On this trip, however, I sign my risk-averse self up for

the cultural hike and am lucky enough to have a beachboy/

historian all to myself. Departing early in the morning with

walking sticks, water, and sun hats, we set out on the nearby

Kalahuipuaa Trail, which offers a plethora of archaeological

sites. We explore an underground city of caves used by the

ancient Hawaiians, visualizing where they likely ate, slept,

and socialized. We examine the petroglyph of a warrior holding

his spear aloft, and we wander past the enormous fishponds

which once were the source of food for the mighty alii

(Hawaiian chiefs).

Following my hike, I meet up with a very relaxed Robert who

has elected to spend his morning in a more Zen-like state

with a 90-minute seaside yoga session, one of the hotels

Paradise Within offerings that also include aqua fitness and

core strength conditioning.

ater in the week, Robert and I finally tear ourselves away

from the resort and make our way to the Waipio Valley

for a sightseeing adventure via horse. Located on the

islands northeast coast, this grand valley a mile wide

and nearly six miles deep is often referred to as the

Valley of the Kings, as many of Hawaiis rulers once lived

here. I can see why.

Uncommonly beautiful, this emerald Eden boasts six dramatic

waterfalls and is edged by a mile-long black-sand beach. Back in

its heyday, the valley housed thousands of residents. Today, some

50 intrepid souls reside here sans all creature comforts

amid herds of wild horses abandoned after the 1946 tsunami.

We glean such fascinating tidbits during our trail ride along the

valleys upper rim. Fortunately for me a novice equestrian

my horse is notwild although he does, at one point, take me

perilously close (in my opinion) to the edge of a steep cliff to

admire the view. Not to worry, our guide humors me as he

pulls up alongside. We havent lost a guest yet.

From op: Falling for The Fairmont Orchid;beachboys at sea; and Waipio Valley verdure meetsbeaches of black sand.

Equine empire: wild horses reign in the Valley of the Kings.

More Big Island Bliss on page 30 P

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VeRMOnt BIKIng

Pedal through picture-perfect New England towns

and pastoral landscape blanketed in autumn colorson this six-day cycling tour with Backroads. Visit

historic Weston, wander Woodstocks charming

streets, and watch glass artisans at work. Departs

Sept. 13, 20, 27; Oct. 4, 2009. From $2,898 per person.

FLy-FISHIng In MOntana

Cast your line in anglers paradise along the banks

of the legendary Blackfoot River. This five-day, all-

inclusive package from The Resort at Paws Up

includes two full days of fly-fishing, box of custom

flies, state fishing license, and more. Available

through Oct. 31, 2009. From $834 per night.

gRanD CanyOn aDVentURe

Take the family four-wheeling across the magical

mesas of Monument Valley, raft along the Colorado

River, and hike through both Arches National Park

and the glorious Grand Canyon on this eight-day

journey with Adventures by Disney. Available

through Oct. 17, 2009. From $2,609 per adult; $2,349

per child.

BeaR WatCHIng In BRItISH COLUMBIa

During late summer at Clayoquot Wilderness

Resort, the local black bears really put on a show.

Located just off Vancouver Island in the diverse

Clayoquot Sound Biosphere Reserve, the resort is

ideal for whale watching and myriad other activities,

as well. Contact your Virtuoso travel advisor for up-to-

the-minute pricing.

MeXICOS MOnaRCH MIgRatIOn

Find yourself amidst thousands of fluttering,

fantastical monarch butterflies as they make their

annual migration across Mexico. Join Horizon &

Co. on a journey of the imagination from Mexico

City to the Angaguejo Monarch Reserve and the

Yucatn Peninsula. Available November 24, 2009.Tailor-made tours from $3,950 per person.

Heaven on Earth: The FairmontOrchids Spa Without Walls.

MORE CLOSE-TO-HOME

SOFT ADVENTURES

TO TAKE YOU FAR BEYOND

fter hours on a horse, this cowgirl is famished. We

jump in the car and hit the trail for Huli Sues, a funky

little BBQ place in Waimea recommended by the

hotel concierge. We devour a succulent half chicken

with paniolo-chipotle sauce, sides of black beans and

corn pudding, and a fat piece of banana cream pie.

This would be the perfect ending to a perfect day, but

back at The Fairmont Orchid, a stellar adventure still awaits.

Every Friday night, local astronomer Wayne Fukunaga invites

guests to peer into his enormously powerful Celestron telescope

set up on the pool deck.

Waynes fascination with the stars, he tells us, dates back

to his childhood. Forty-plus years later, he is still passionate

about sharing his extensive knowledge of the heavens with

visitors to the Big Island. Tonight, Wayne deftly locates comets,

constellations, star clusters, and infant stars just for us. I

cant stop marveling at the crater-dotted moon and a storybook-

looking Saturn which Wayne knows just where to find.

I realize Ill never look at the night sky in quite the same light

again. And I thank my lucky stars for such an illuminating week

on this heavenly isle.

Commanding 32 beachfront acres on the Big Islands Kohala

Coast, The Fairmont Orchid offers a host of soft-adventure

activities such as the popular GET IN THE WATER! program

that includes snorkeling and surfing instruction. The resort also

features the award-winning Spa Without Walls and access to

the adjacent championship Francis H. Ii Browngolf courses.

Virtuoso guests receive a room upgrade, if available; daily buffet

breakfast; two Virtuoso Fun & Sun Activity Passes; and early

check-in, if available. From $449 per room, per night.

a

Doing itVisiting thE Big isLAnD

Anglers paradise: The Resortat Paws Up, Montana.