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Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop

Bicycle Rim Lightsby LongToe on August 5, 2012

Table of Contents

Bicycle Rim Lights .............................................................................................................

Intro: Bicycle Rim Lights .....................................................................................................

Step 1: Investigate .........................................................................................................

Step 2: A New Plan .........................................................................................................

Step 3: Strip ..............................................................................................................

Step 4: Solder and Glue .....................................................................................................

Step 5: Finish .............................................................................................................

Related Instructables ........................................................................................................ 1

Comments ................................................................................................................ 1

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Author:LongToe

I'm a software engineer who tries to stay away from the computer when I'm not at work.

Intro: Bicycle Rim LightsThe idea was simple. Buy a LED rope light, cut it up, power it with batteries, weave it in the spokes, and you've got some sweet rim lights for your bicycle. But it was toeasy. The reality was a lot more complicated and it took a while. But the result is a really easy way to add and remove the lights for your bike, and i t looks great. Muchbrighter than other rim lights I've seen.

Here's a look at the lights in motion:

Here how it looks when using the bike:

Bonus! After riding to your favorite disco, rave, gathering, or whatever you've got some glowy things you can swing around and try to look cool. Just don't hit anybodythat's not cool.

http://member/LongToe/http://member/LongToe/

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Step 1:InvestigateI couldn't find any details on how LED rope lights are constructed, so I took the plunge and bought a 12ft. blue one. After I ripped open the package, admired the glowdecided to take some measurements to see what I was dealing with. I used a multimeter to measure the DC voltage coming out of the converter and got 110VDC. Thawhen I knew I was in trouble. That's going to take a lot of batteries.

Materials:LED Rope Light4 3-Battery Holders12 AAA BatteriesHot GlueSolder4 10 Ohm ResistorsWire TiesRubber Bands made from old bicycle tubes

Tools:MultimeterSoldering IronHot Glue GunRazor BladeWire StrippersWire CuttersNeedle Nose Pliers

Image Notes1. Resistor2. Outer tube3. Inner tube covers a positive and negative wire.

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Step 2:A New PlanI took apart the end of the rope and found that under the outer cover there was another plastic section that insulated a postive and negative wire and third wire in thecenter that strung the LEDs together in series. It emerged from one of the side wires, traveled about 3ft down the rope then connected to the other side wire. After eve4-5 LEDs there was a resistor. The LEDs had about 2.8V across them and the resistors had 4.6V. I cut the wire and ran it thru my multimeter to measure current and g13.7 mA.

At this point I was stuck and considered giving up. I slowly realized I had to rewire the whole thing to make it work with batteries. I thought about using a 9V or 2 AAAbatteries, but decided on using 3 AAA batteries to power the rope. By using a battery pack on opposite sides of the wheel it should balance out.

I decided to place the LEDs in a parallel circuit without a resistor on each LED. It's generally good practice to place a resistor on each LED when used in parallel, but iwould be just too much work soldering all those resistors. So instead I used one resistor on the whole thing. I'm not sure if using using only one defeats the purpose ofhaving a resistor in the first place, but lets just go with it.

I used an online resistor calculator and entered 4.5V (3 x 1.5V) as the source voltage, 2.8V for the LED voltage, and 178 mA (13 LEDs x 13.7mA) for the total current.recommended a 10 Ohm resistor.

To double check I use Ohm's Law which I remember as V.I.R. or Voltage = Current x Resistance. (Current is always an 'I', I don't know why.)

So if I have: V = I x R

Then: R = V / I

Insert numbers: R = (4.5V 2.8V) / 0.178 A

and I get : R = 9.5 Ohms

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Image Notes1. The 3 pieces of the LED rope light, an outer shell, an inner tube with 2 wires,and a center string of LEDs and resistors.

Step 3:StripI weaved the rope into the wheel and end up up cutting a 33 in. section for my 26 in. wheels. I couldn't pull the innards out so I had to cut the outer section to take it ap

Once I removed the inner section I began cutting the insulation off every 2.5 in. Having the LEDs close together looks cool, but it's more work. Every 2.5 in. seemed goenough. Removing the insulation was harder than I expected. I used wire stripper, a razor blade, and needle nose pliers.

Image Notes1. A razor blade works well for removing the outside cover.

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Image Notes1. It's hard not to cut a few strands while removing the insulation. Solder thestrands back on, or cut them off.

Step 4:Solder and GlueI used a battery pack I had lying around to test each LED to see which lead was positive. I pushed the led into the plastic part and wrapped the LED wires around themain wires. Then soldered away. To solder the battery pack to the rope, I double checked which wire was positive, soldered on the resistor, then soldered the red battpack lead. I connected the black battery lead to the the other wire.

I used hot glue to insulate and attach the wire to the battery pack. I also injected hot glue into the rope where the soldering was done to insulate the wire and help keeall together.

Image Notes1. Battery pack for testing LEDs and figuring out polarity.2. Resistors are ready to be attached to the rope

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Image Notes1. LED is inserted into the plastic section.2. Solder these wires.

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Image Notes1. Inject hot glue into the rope light.

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Image Notes1. It passed the test, assembly can continue.

Step 5:FinishTo finish up, I used wire zip ties to hold the battery pack onto the LED rope. I made one tie really tight and left one loose enough to slide over so I can add and removebatteries. To keep the battery pack from flopping around on the wheel I used some rubber bands made from old bicycle tubes to attach it to a spoke.

Once all four sections were complete, I weaved the rope into place, and wrapped the rubber band around a spoke to secure the batteries. It's turns out to be really easto add and remove the lights.

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Image Notes

1. The rubber band wraps around a spoke to secure the battery pack.

Image Notes

1. 2 rubber bands tied together made from an old bicycle tube.

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Comments

5 comments Add Comment

depotdevoid says: Aug 7, 2012. 10:20 AM REPNice! Reminds me of my own wheel lights, only lighter, and probably with better battery life!

DoctorWoo says: Aug 7, 2012. 4:23 AM REPSorry if you have this noted somewhere....but why the need to break i t down to four strips? Was that just due to the needed voltage?Also...did you happen to test using just one strip on a wheel? I have a few bikes I think this would be awesome to do to, and seeing as how once you get uto speed, the strip would more then l ikely blur into one ring. At least, that's who I'm thinking it.Thanks in advance! Oh, and awesome build!

LongToe says: Aug 7, 2012. 9:47 AM REPThanks! Yes, you could certainly go with one strip per tire, but since I wanted a battery pack on opposite sides of the tire for balance, it just made senseto break it in 2. It would look more continuous if it was just one strip though, good idea. I could still probably glue and wire 2 sections together. That'ssomething to think about.

kombi66 says: Aug 6, 2012. 3:19 PM REPhell ya paratrooper ingenuity... way to go

LongToe says: Aug 6, 2012. 7:57 PM REPThanks man!

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