Best of BW - Right Angle Weave

8/9/2019 Best of BW - Right Angle Weave

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Best of

right-angle-weave projects

12

arta S.


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More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com

© 2010 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

page 1

puttin’ on the ritzL E S L E E F R U M I N

Leslee’s fashion-conscious sister requested this necklace of

pearls and semiprecious stones. She gets tons of compliments

on the piece, but doesn’t reveal her source . . . or the fact that her

source made it up in a day with right-angle weave!

TECHNIQUE:: right-angle weave

See pp. 35–36 for helpfultechnique information.

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page 2

1) RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE. Work a61-unit chain of right-angle weave:Unit 1: Use the thread to string 1 pearl

and 1 charlotte four times, leaving a7' tail to work the clasp and fringe.Pass through the first 6 beads toexit the third pearl.

Units 2 and on: String 1 charlotte and1 pearl three times. String 1 charlotte.

Pass through the last bead of the previous unit and first 4 beads juststrung, exiting from the second pearl(Fig. 1). Repeat fifty-nine times.

2) CLASP. Use the tail thread to string1 charlotte, ¼" of french wire, and onehalf of the clasp; pass back throughthe charlotte and through the first

pearl. String 1 charlotte and ¼" offrench wire; pass through the claspagain and back through the charlotteand the pearl. Tie a knot to secure the

thread, then pass back through1 charlotte and 1 pearl to exit the bot-tom pearl toward the necklace (Fig. 2).

3) FRINGE. String 1 charlotte, 1 pearl,1 charlotte, 1 teardrop, 1 charlotte,1 pearl, and 1 charlotte; skip a bottom

pearl and pass through the next bottom pearl (Fig. 3). Pull snug and tie a half-hitch knot. Repeat entire step twenty-nine times.

4) FINISHING. Pass through the

charlotte above the last pearl andattach the clasp as in Step 2. Securethe tail threads with 3 or morehalf-hitch knots tied betweenbeads, then trim.F

MATERIALS

3 g gold size 13° charlottes

30 amber 9×6mm top-drilled cubiczirconia teardrops

244 peach 3mm pearls

1" of fine gold french wire

1 gold 10mm S-clasp with citrine inlay

15' of 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS

Size 12 beading needle

Scissors

FINISHED SIZE: 16¼"

A R T I S T ’ S T I P S

• If adjusting the length of thisnecklace, it is a good idea towork from the center of thethread. Without cutting thethread, unroll about 2½' ofFireLine from the spool.Thread the needle and startstitching using right-angleweave as in Step 1. When theworking end of the thread isabout 12" long, unroll 2½'from the spool, cut thethread, add a needle to thenew end, and continue to

work the necklace as before.Check the necklace length ina mirror. Attach one half ofthe clasp and work the fringe.Recheck the length. Add orsubract units with the 12" tail.Add fringe as needed andattach the second half of theclasp as in Steps 2–4.

• If working with a box clasp,make sure the necklace is nottwisted when attaching thesecond half of the clasp. Youmay find it helpful to keep theclasp closed during stitchingto prevent one of the halvesfrom accidently gettingattached upside down.

RESOURCES

Check your local bead shop or contact:

Cubic zirconia: Africa Stones (wholesale

only), (626) 962-5800, www.africa stones

.com. Kit for this project: www.leslee

frumin.com.

Fig. 1: Units 1 and 2

Fig. 2: Connecting the first half of the clasp

Fig. 3: Working the first fringe

LESLEE FRUMIN, a bead and metal artist

from San Juan Capistrano, California, teaches

off-loom bead weaving and metal/jewelry

techniques. She has been published and won

awards in both areas, and her work is frequently

featured in trade magazines. Her passion for all

the colors and textures made possible by

beads, metals, and stones keeps her excited.

Her motto is so many beads, so little time.


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page 3

turquoise coutureJ E N N I F E R V ANB E N SC H O T E N

Inspired by high-end

earrings found on the

pages of a fashion

magazine, these

easy-to-make right-angle-

weave earrings arethe perfect addition to

any fashion-forward

wardrobe.

TECHNIQUES:: single- and double-

needle right-angleweave


• To strengthen and stabilize the earrings, weave as much of the extra working

thread as possible into the beadwork before trimming. Be careful not to breakany beads—if it feels tight when you insert the needle into a bead, don’t force it.

• When working with two needles, stash the extra needle to prevent tangling thethread or losing the needle. If using a padded work surface, weave the needleinto the padding; if working on a hard surface, use a small piece of clear tape to

secure the needle.

• This pattern is extremely versatile. Try replacing the turquoise rounds with3mm gemstone, fire-polished, or crystal rounds, or size 8° seed beads.


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page 4

1) CENTER. Use 5' of conditionedthread and two-needle right-angle

weave to work the center stripof the earring:Row 1, Unit 1: Place one needle on

each end of the thread. Use theright needle to string {1 size 15°and 1 turquoise round} four times.Slide the beads to the middle of

the thread and pass the left needlethrough the last turquoise roundstrung to form a circle.

Row 1, Units 2–8: Use each needle to string1 size 15°, 1 turquoise round, and1 size 15°. Use the left needle tostring 1 turquoise round; pass theright needle back through it tocomplete the unit. Repeat to makea strip 8 units long (Fig. 1).

2) SIDE 1. With the beadwork horizon-tal and the working threads to the right,use single-needle right-angle weave tocreate one half of the earring:Row 2, Unit 1: Using the needle that is

currently pointing up, weave throughbeads to exit the right side of the topturquoise round of the seventh unit in

Row 1. String {1 size 15° and 1 tur-quoise round} three times and 1 size15°; pass through the last turquoiseround exited and the first 6 beads justadded to form 1 unit (Fig. 2).

Row 2, Unit 2: String 1 size 15° and passthrough the top turquoise round ofthe sixth unit in Row 1. String 1 size15°, 1 turquoise round, 1 size 15°,1 turquoise round, and 1 size 15°;

pass through the adjacent side beadof the previous Row 2 unit and thefirst 4 beads of this unit (Fig. 3).

Row 2, Unit 3: String 1 size 15°, 1 tur-quoise round, 1 size 15°, 1 turquoiseround, and 1 size 15°; pass through

the top bead of the fifth unit inRow 1. String 1 size 15° and passthrough the adjacent side bead ofthe previous Row 2 unit; weavethrough beads to exit from the topbead of Row 2, Unit 2 (Fig. 4).

Points: String {1 size 15° and 1 turquoiseround} three times and 1 size 15°;

pass through the last bead exited toform 1 unit (Fig. 5a). Weave throughbeads to exit from the top bead of thethird unit in Row 1. Work 1 unit asbefore (Fig. 5b). Set the needle aside.

3) SIDE 2. Flip the work over andrepeat Side 1 using the other needle.

4) LOOP. Weave both needlesthrough beads to exit from oppositeends of the side bead at the start of

Row 1. Use each needle to string 5 size15°s. Use both needles to string 1 tur-quoise round. Use the left needle tostring 11 size 15°s; pass back throughthe beads just strung with the rightneedle to form a loop. Weave each nee-dle through the beadwork to reinforce(Fig. 6). Secure the thread and trim.

Open the loop of 1 ear wire as you would a jump ring, attach it to the seed-bead loop, and close the ear-wire loop.

5) Repeat Steps 1–4 for a second earring.F

MATERIALS

1 g metallic silver size 15° seed beads

104 turquoise 3mm rounds

1 pair of sterling silver ear wires

White size B nylon beading thread

Thread conditioner (optional)

TOOLS

Scissors

2 size 10 beading needles2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZE: 3"

RESOURCES


Turquoise: Beads World, (212) 302-1199,

www.beadsworldusa.com. Ear wires and

Nymo nylon beading thread: Fire

Mountain Gems and Beads, (800)

355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.

Seed beads: Out On A Whim, (707)

664-8343, www.whimbeads.com.

Fig. 1: Row 1, the center strip

Fig. 2: Side 1, Row 2, Unit 1



Fig. 5: Adding the points

ab

Fig. 6: Completing the loop

o p t i o n

JENNIFER VANBENSCHOTEN lives in the

Adirondack Mountains of upstate New York

with her husband, her son, and their critters.

You can see more of her work and purchase

kits on her website, www.vanbeads.com.

Jennifer is the Guide to Beadwork for About.com.

For a bold look,use carnelian3mm roundsinstead ofturquoise.


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page 5

pewter laceSM A D A R G R O SSM A N

Use three different stitches

to weave a lacy, chic braceletsuitable for holiday wear.

TECHNIQUES:: double-needle

right-angle weave:: netting:: brick stitch



• Use longer bugle beads to create a wider bracelet.

• Do not eliminate the B beads if altering the design; they helpprotect the thread from the sharp edges of the bugles.

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page 7

earth and sky M A R C I A DEC O ST E R

Have fun creating lacy bead caps using a variety of seed

beads, crystals, and pearls; then join two together over a

larger bead. he result is a beaded bead dressed up with

sparkle and color. Wear one alone for a solo dazzler or

string with several others for a stunning necklace.

TECHNIQUES:: ladder stitch:: brick stitch:: right-angle weave:: picot


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page 8

1) BEAD CAPS. Work each bead capseparately and join 2 together arounda larger bead:Round 1: Use 3' of thread and one color

of C to work a strip of ladder stitch12 beads long. Stitch the first andlast beads together to form a ring.

Round 2: String 3C; pass down throughthe next bead in the previous round

and up through the following bead.Repeat around for a total of 6 picots.

Weave through beads to exit from thefirst bead added in this round (Fig. 1).

Round 3: *String 3C and pass downthrough the third bead of the picot

you’re exiting. String 1D and passup through the first bead of thenext picot. Repeat from * around fora total of 6 additional picots with 1Dbetween each. Weave through beadsto exit from the second bead added

in this round (Fig. 2).

Round 4: *String 3A (or 3B). Passthrough the Round 3 bead justexited to work another picot. Weavethrough beads to exit from the tip ofthe next picot of the previous round.

Repeat around, using either A or Bconsistently, for a total of 6 addi-tional picots. Exit from the secondbead added in this round (Fig. 3).Don’t cut the thread.

Note: If your 16mm beads have wideholes, use B to work 1 or 2 rounds ofdecreasing brick stitch inside Round 1of each cap (Fig. 4).

Repeat Rounds 1–4 thirteen times fora total of 7 pairs of matching beadcaps, using different bead colors ineach round so each final beaded beadis unique. Set aside.Round 5: Position 2 matching bead

caps on each end of one 16mmbead so they mirror one another.*Use one working thread to string1 accent bead. Pass through the tip

of the matching picot on theopposite cap. Pass back through theaccent bead and into the tip of the

picot you originally exited. Weavethrough the beads to exit from thetip of the next picot (Fig. 5). Repeatfrom * around until the caps are con-nected. Secure the thread and trim.

Optional: For extra embellishment, use A or B to work 5-unit-long strips ofright-angle weave between thestrips of picots, attaching them tothe D beads of Round 3.

2) BEZEL. Use 3' of thread to work 1 rowof right-angle weave 19 units long, usingB for the top and bottom and C for thesides of each unit. Check to see that itfits snugly around the rivoli, leaving a1-bead-wide gap for finishing. Weavea second row using B and C as before.

MATERIALS

3 g turquoise shiny size 15° seed beads (A)

5 g bronze metallic size 15° charlottes (B)

7 g each size 11° seed beads inturquoise-lined clear, turquoise matte,gold metallic, and brown luster (C)

3 g gold metallic size 8° seed beads (D)

42 total 3–4mm cube, crystal bicone,and fire-polished round accent beadsin bronze and turquoise

14 dark brown 11×9mm glass bicones1 sapphire 14mm crystal rivoli

6 chalcedony or amazonite 13–19×18–25mm faceted nuggets

7 dark brown 16mm ceramic rounds

26 gold-filled or brass 6mm daisy spacers

2 gold-filled 2mm crimp tubes

Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

24" of .018 beading wire

TOOLS

Size 12 beading needles

Wire cutters

Crimping pliers

Scissors

FINISHED SIZE: 17½"

Fig. 1: FinishingRound 2

Fig. 2: Working Round 3

Fig. 3: Adding picots

Fig. 4: Working brick stitch inside Round 1

Fig. 5: Connecting the caps


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page 9

Use B to work 1 more round. Use Band follow a right-angle-weave thread

path to join the row ends (Fig. 6).

Weave through all the top B and pulltight to form a cup (Fig. 7). Place thebezel facedown into the cup.

Weave through beads to exit from 1Bon the opposite edge of the ring. UseB to work 1 round of right-angle

weave. Weave through all the top B asbefore and pull tight to enclose therivoli. Weave through the beads toexit from 1B on the top of the initialrow. String 1A and pass through thenext B. Repeat around to embellishthe edge of the bezel (Fig. 8). Set aside.

3) ASSEMBLY. Use the beading wireto string 1 crimp tube and 8C. Passback through the tube and crimp,leaving a 1" tail. String {1 bicone,1 spacer, 1 beaded bead, 1 spacer,1 bicone, 1 spacer, 1 nugget,and 1 spacer} six times. String1 bicone, 1 spacer, 1 beadedbead, 1 spacer, 1 bicone,

1 crimp tube, and 30C orenough C to fit snuglyaround the bezel. Passback through the tube,snug the beads, andcrimp. Use 1' of threadto secure the strand’s8-bead loop to theback of the bezel.Secure the threadand trim close to

the work.F

RESOURCES


Swarovski crystal beads and rivoli, seed

beads, spacers, and wire: Out On A

Whim, (800) 232-3111, www.whimbeads

.com. FireLine braided beading thread:

FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559.

Fig. 6: Joining the row ends

Fig. 7: Pulling the beadwork so it cups

Fig. 8: Embellishing the edge of the bezel

MARCIA DECOSTER is a beadweaving artist

who enjoys living and working in her art deco

home in Southern California. Right-angle

weave offers many different design options,which you can find in her new book, Marcia

DeCoster’s Beaded Opulence: Elegant Jew-

elry Projects with Right-Angle Weave (Lark

Books, 2009). Visit www.marciadecoster.org

to see Marcia’s extensive teaching schedule.

To hear more about her travels, read her blog

at www.maddesignsbeads.blogspot.com.


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page 10

medici gateH A N N A H B E N N I N G E R

Strong cubic right-angle-weave tile

“gates” swing and sway between

beaded posts to form this cleverly

engineered bracelet.

TECHNIQUES:: cubic and flat

right-angle weave



• It may be easier to learn cubic right-angle weave by practicing with larger beads firs

• With cubic right-angle weave, it’s important to match the color of your thread asclosely as possible to the color of your beads because a lot of thread shows.

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page 11

1) POSTS. Use A to work cubic right-angle weave, first forming the center ofthe post and then the decorative ends:Cube 1: Leaving an 8" tail, use 3' of

waxed black thread and A to work3 units of f lat right-angle weave. To

work a fourth unitthat connectsUnits 1 and 3,

string 1A and passdown through theend 1A of Unit 1,then string 1A and

pass up throughthe end 1A ofUnit 3. Exit froma bottom 1A; passthrough all thebottom beads toform one side of

the cube (Fig. 1

). Weave through thebeads to exit froma top 1A; pass through all the topbeads, completing the first cube (Fig. 2).

Cube 2: String 3A; pass through the last A exited in the previous cube and upthrough the first 1A just added tocomplete the first unit of this cube.String 2A; pass through the next A atthe top of the previous cube, upthrough the nearest 1A of this cube’s

first unit, the 2A just strung, andthrough the following 1A at the topof the previous cube. String 2A; passdown through the nearest 1A of thiscube’s second unit, the nearest 1A atthe top of the previous cube, and upthrough the first A just added. String1A; pass down through the nearest1A of this cube’s firstunit, the closest top1A of the previous

cube, up throughthe nearest 1A ofthis cube’s thirdunit, and throughthe 1A just added.Pass through allthe top beads,completing thesecond cube (Fig. 3).

Cubes 3–12: Repeat Cube 2 to form arectangle 12 cubeslong. Weave throughbeads to exit from aside 1A of the elev-enth cube.

Ends: Use A to form1 cube on the left sideof the eleventh cube;

repeat on the rightside of the eleventhcube. Secure the

working thread andtrim. Place a needleon the tail threadand weave throughbeads to exit froma side bead of thesecond cube. Use Ato form 1 cube on

the left side of the second cube;repeat on the right side of thesecond cube (Fig. 4). Secure the tailthread and working threads andtrim; set aside.

Repeat entire step six times for a totalof 7 posts.

2) TILES. Work a flat square of cubicright-angle weave with a diamond pat-tern in the center:Row 1: Leaving a 4" tail, use 4' of waxed

lavender thread and B to work a stripof cubic right-angle weave as in Step 1,but this time make it 8 cubes long. Exitfrom 1B at the side of the eighth cube.

Row 2: Use B to form 1 cube on the topof the final cube of Row 1. Use C toform a second cube, incorporatingthe top of the next Row 1 cube andthe side of the cube just made as thebottom and side of this new cube(Fig. 5). Repeat, adding 6 more cubes

across the row, following the beadcolor pattern in Fig. 6.

Rows 3–6: Work 4 more rows of cubic right-angle weave, continuing to follow thebead color pattern in Fig. 6. Secure thethread and trim; set the tile aside.

Repeat entire step seven times for atotal of 8 tiles.

3) HINGES. Use B to work flat right-

angle-weave loops that will act ashinges joining the tiles to the posts:Loop 1: Start 3' of waxed lavender thread

that exits from the third edge B atthe top of 1 tile. Use B to work 1 unitof right-angle weave off the bead justexited and a second unit off thefourth edge B. Continue working flatright-angle weave to form a strip2 units wide and 5 units long (Fig. 7).

MATERIALS

5 g matte gunmetal size 15° seed beads (A)

5 g opaque mauve size 15° seed beads (B)

3 g silver-lined opal pale lavender size15° seed beads (C)

Size D nylon beading thread in blackand lavender

Beeswax

TOOLSScissors


FINISHED SIZE: 7"Fig. 1: Working

Units 1–4 (indicatedin blue) and joiningthem into one sideof the rst cube(indicated in red)

Fig. 2: Completingthe rst cube

Fig. 3: WorkingUnits 1–4 of thesecond cube (indi-cated in blue) andpassing throughthe top beads tocomplete the cube(indicated in red)

Fig. 4: Addingcubes to the sidesof the post ends

Fig. 5: Adding the second cube to Row 2

Fig. 6: Tile color pattern

Fig. 7: Flat right-angle-weave strip


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page 12

1 Use 3' of thread tostring beads 1–4 inalternating colors asshown, leaving a 6" tail.

Tie a knot and pass throughBeads 1 and 2 (Fig. A).

2 String Beads 5–7in alternating colorsas shown. Passthrough Bead 2 fromthe previous unit andBeads 5 and 6 (Fig. B).

3 StringBeads 8–10in alternatingcolors asshown. Passthrough Beads 6, 8, and9 from the previous unit (Fig. C).

4 Stitch these3 units into atube by stringingBead 11 andpassing through

Bead 4 of the firstunit. String Bead12 and passthrough Bead 9 of the third unit. Con-tinue to pass through Bead 11 (Fig. D).

5 Hold the cube so thatthe side with Bead 11 (thebead that the thread is ex-iting) faces you. To jointhe 4 beads of the samecolor into a unit, pass through

Beads 3, 5, 10, and 11 (Fig. E).

6 Pass through Bead 4on the corner and Bead12 on the opposite side ofthe cube (Fig. F).

7 To join the 4 beads ofthe same color on this sideof the cube into a unit, passthrough Beads 8, 7, 1, and

12 (Fig. G).

8 Pass through Beads 8and 7 again and exit Bead 2(Fig. H).

9 Begin the secondcube by stringingBeads 13–15 in alter-nating colors as shown.Notice this unit sharesBead 2 with the firstcube. Pass throughBead 2 and thenthrough Beads 13 and 14 again (Fig. I).

10 StringBeads 16–18in alternatingcolors asshown. Passthrough Bead 14again to make Unit 2 of the second cube.

Pass through beads 16 and 17 again (Fig. J).

11 String Bead19 and passthrough Bead 4of the first cube.String Bead 20and pass throughBeads 17, 19, 4,and 20 (Fig. K ).

12 Turn the cube so

that Bead 20 facesyou. Pass throughBeads 1, 15, and 16.Continue to passthrough Beads 20, 1,and 15 again and exitBead 14 on the corner (Fig. L).

13 Turn the cube tothe other side. Passthrough Beads 18, 19,3, and 13. Continue to

pass through Bead 18and then throughBead 17 on the corner (Fig. M).

14 Repeat Steps 9–13 to continuemaking a strip.

Fig. B

Fig. C

Fig. D

Fig. A

If you’re familiar with flat right-angle weave (RAW), you’re ready for cubic RAW. Imagine a

child’s block with six sides. Each side is made up of a unit of 4 beads sewn in RAW. Beginning

with 3 units of flat RAW, you will join the sides into a tube using common beads, and do the

same to the top and bottom, forming a six-sided cubic unit of 12 beads.

Getting Startedwith Cubic RAWB O N N I E B R O O K S

Fig. F

Fig. K

Fig. G

4

Fig. L

Fig. J

Fig. H

4

Fig. M

Fig. I

Fig. E

http://www.interweave.com/go/bdbw


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page 13

Post: Wrap the strip around 1 post.Right-angle-weave a sixth unit thatattaches to the other side of thesame 2 cubes the strip originatedfrom (Fig. 8).

Loop 2: Weave through the beadsalong the top of the tile to exit fromthe seventh edge B. Form anotherstrip as before, wrap it around the

post, and secure it to the other sideof the same 2 cubes the striporiginated from (Fig. 9a).

Loop 3: Weave through beads across thebody of the tile and exit from thefirst edge B at the bottom of the tile.Form a strip as before, wrap itaround a second post, and secure itto the other side of the same 2 cubesthe strip originated from (Fig. 9b).

Loop 4: Weave through beads alongthe bottom of the tile to exit the fifthedge B. Form a strip as before, wrapit around the post just added, andsecure it to the other side of the same2 cubes the strip originated from(Fig. 9c). Secure the thread and trim.

Repeat entire step to connect theremaining tiles and posts in the

same manner. Note: The ends of thebracelet should be free of loops.

4) CLASP. Use cubic right-angle weave to work a beaded toggle clasp:Clasp loop: Start 3' of waxed lavender

thread that exits from the top of thesecond cube on the long edge of thebracelet’s first tile. Use B to work astrip of cubic right-angle weave1 cube wide and 4 cubes long.

Weave through beads to exit fromthe right side of the last cubestitched; use B to work a strip ofcubic right-angle weave 1 cube

wide and 5 cubes long. Weavethrough beads to exit from thebottom of the last cube stitched;use B to work a strip of cubic right-angle weave 1 cube wide and 2 unitslong. Form a final cube that incor-

porates and attaches to the seventhcube on the long edge of the brace-

let’s first tile (Fig. 10). Secure thethread and trim.

Clasp-bar post: Repeat Step 1 to form a post, but this time make it only10 cubes long. The cubes that formthe decorative ends will attach tothe second and ninth cubes.

Clasp-bar connection: Start 3' of waxed

black thread that exits from the top ofthe fourth cube on the long edge ofthe bracelet’s eighth tile. Use A toform a strip 2 cubes wide and 3 cubeslong. Form a fourth cube that incor-

porates and attaches to the center2 cubes of the clasp-bar post (Fig. 11).Secure the thread and trim.F

RESOURCES


Mauve seed beads: Turtle Island Beads,

(608) 356-8823, www.turtleislandbeads

.com. Nymo nylon beading thread and all

other beads: FusionBeads.com, (888)

781-3559.

HANNAH BENNINGER has been fascinated

by beads since childhood. She wishes she

had more free time to execute her many

beady ideas.

Fig. 8: Looping and connecting a at right-angle-weave strip around a post

Fig. 9: Tile-loop positions

a

b c

Fig. 10: Working the clasp loop

Fig. 11: Connecting the clasp-bar post

http://www.interweavestore.com/Beading-Jewelry/Magazines/Special-Issues.html


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page 14

TECHNIQUES:: right-angle weave:: square stitch


modern art cuff KATE MCK I N N O N

he cleverly engineered,

removable ram’s horn

clasp used in this stunning

double-layered bracelet gives

the design an unexpectedversatility—since the closure

isn’t stitched to the beadwork,

the inner layer doesn’t bunch up.

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page 15

1) GRAY STRIP. Work a large strip ofright-angle weave for the inside layerof the cuff:Row 1, Unit 1: Use 3' of size D thread to

string {2B and 1A} four times, leav-ing a 4" tail. Pass through the beadsagain to form a circle, exiting fromthe first 2B strung.

Row 1, Units 2–8: String 2B, 1A, 2B, 1A,

and 2B. Pass through the last 2Bexited on the previous unit andthrough the 2B/1A/2B just added(Fig. 1); repeat to form a strip 8 units

wide. Exit from the second B addedto the final unit.

Row 2, Unit 1: String 2B, 1A, 2B, 1A, and2B; pass through the last 2B exitedfrom the previous unit, through thebeads just added, and the next edge2B of Row 1 (Fig. 2).

Row 2, Unit 2: String 2B, 1A, and 2B; pass through the side 2B of the previous unit, the last 2B exited inRow 1, and the first 2B just added.

Row 2, Unit 3: String 2B, 1A, and 2B; pass through the next edge 2B onRow 1, the side 2B of the previousunit, the 2B/1A/2B just added, and

the next edge 2B of Row 1 (Fig. 3).

Row 2, Units 4–8: Repeat Row 2, Units 2and 3, to work a total of 8 units. Exitfrom the top 2B of the final unit.

Rows 3 and on: Repeat Row 2 to work astrip of right-angle weave longenough to reach the wrist circum-ference, minus 2¼".

Embellishment: Weave through beads toexit from the intersection of 4 units

at the corner of the strip. String1 sequin and 1E; pass back throughthe sequin and through the nextbeads on the strip to exit from theintersection of the next set of 4 unitsalong the strip’s long edge (Fig. 4).Repeat to add sequin fringes downthe edge of the strip. Secure thethread and trim.

2) AMBER STRIP. Repeat Step 1, thistime using C instead of B and forming

the strip so it’s 6 units wide insteadof 8 units. Work the embellishmentfringes as before, randomly placingthem in the center 4" of the strip andsometimes using D instead of E.

3) ENDS. Connect the strips withsquare-stitched bands:Copper bands: Start 3' of size O thread

that exits toward the edge from thebottom 2C of the amber right-

angle-weave strip’s first unit formedin Step 2. String 2D, pass throughthe last 2C exited and the 2D justadded, and string 1A (Fig. 5a). String2D, pass through the next 2D fromthe previous row and the 2D justadded, and string 1A (Fig. 5b); repeatto the end of the strip, omitting thefinal 1A. Pass through the row just

stitched to reinforce it. Continue working rows of square stitch, add-ing 2D over 2D and adding 1Abetween each stitch, to form a band17 rows long. Do not trim thethread. Repeat entire step to form a

second copper band at the otherend of the amber strip.Connection: With the embellished side of

the gray strip faceup and the embel-lished side of the amber strip facedown,connect the final row of the copperband to one short end of the gray stripusing a square-stitch thread path and

MATERIALS

4 g silver-lined gray size 15° charlottes (A

5 g silver-lined gray luster size 11° seedbeads (B)

5 g matte silver-lined amber size 11° seedbeads (C)

3 g matte metallic copper size 11° seedbeads (D)

1 g purple luster size 11° seed beads (E)

45–50 copper iris 6mm textured sequins

1 sterling silver 23×30mm ram’s horn clasp

Gray size D and O nylon beading threads

Beeswax or thread conditioner (optional)

TOOLS

Scissors


FINIS HED SIZE: 7¼"

Fig. 1: Working Units 1 and 2 of Row 1

Fig. 2: Starting Row 2

Fig. 3: Working Units 2 and 3 of Row 2

Fig. 4: Stitching the fringe embellishment

ab

Fig. 5: Square-stitching the copper band

d e t a i l


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page 16

making sure the band is centered side toside. Weave through all the copper-band rows again to reinforce; securethe thread and trim. Repeat this entiresection using the other end of the cop-

per strip and the free end of the graystrip to end up with a long circularband; do not trim the thread.

Loops: Fold the copper band with the

thread attached in half so the first andseventeenth square-stitched rowsmeet. Note: One half of the clasp will

go through this loop, so test to makesure the copper strip will rest on top ofthe gray strip and that all of thesequins will face up once stitched. Usea square-stitched thread path to jointhe rows and secure the loop (Fig. 6).Repeat the square-stitched thread

path to reinforce; secure the threadand trim. To wear, slide one half of the

clasp into the loop just formed andattach the other half to the fold of theother copper band. F

RESOURCES


Seed beads: Jane’s Fiber & Beads, (888)497-2665, www.janesfiberandbeads.com,

or BeadFX, Toronto, www.beadfx.com.

Nymo nylon beading thread: Fire Mountain

Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www

.firemountaingems.com. Ram’s horn clasp:

Kate McKinnon Designs, www.katemc

kinnon.com. Sequins: Gail Crosman Moore,

www.gailcrosmanmoore.com.

For subtle shimmer, add sequins between the

layers of beadwork as Kate did on the blue-and-

orange cuff below.

Fig. 6: Stitching one of thecopper bands into a loop


• If altering the size of thiscuff, remember that it has

two layers and will need tobe longer than a simplystrung piece. For example,

Kate makes her own strungpieces 6 to 6½" long, butin this piece, she needs thefinished cuff to measure

about 7¼" long. Add orsubtract a bit from each ofthe copper bands as you

are finishing the piece.

• Kate squares up the units of

the strips, if necessary, bygently pushing a graduatedsquare bezel mandrel into

each “cell.” Don’t have abezel mandrel? Just pick upa piece of square brass tub-

ing from the hardware storein a diameter slightly smallerthan the holes and wiggle it

around in each cell.

• Experiment with patterns andcolor fades in your beadwork.

Even subtle changes, suchas the use of different- colored beads that anchor

the sequins, can be exciting.

KATE MCKINNON is a writer, metalsmith, and

bead engineer who lives and works in her home-

town of Tucson, Arizona. She is fascinated by the

quest to make things stronger, simpler, and more

flexible. Kate is the author of Sculptural Metal

Clay and Jewelry Architect (Interweave, 2010).


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page 17

1) BEZEL. Thread one needle on eachend of 3' of thread to work a double-needle right-angle-weave bezel:Round 1, Unit 1: Use the right needle

to string 3A, 1B, 2A, and 1B;slide them to the center of thethread. Pass the left needle backthrough the last B strung toform a right-angle-

weave unit (Fig. 1).Round 1, Units 2–11:

Use the right nee-dle to string 2A and1B; use the leftneedle to string3A. Pass the leftneedle through thelast B strung toform a unit (Fig. 2).Repeat nine timesto form a tightright-angle-weave strip 11 units long. Note: The work will curve, which will aid in adding the rivoli later.

Round 1, Unit 12: Use the right needle tostring 2A; use the left needle to string3A. Cross the needles through thefirst B strung in Unit 1 to form a ring.

Weave through beads so the needlesexit the 3-seed-bead side of Unit 1from opposite directions (Fig. 3).

Note: This group of side beads ishereafter called an “edge set.”

Round 2, Unit 1: Use the right needle tostring 1B; use the left needle tostring 1B and 2A. Pass the leftneedle down through the B on theright and continue through the

previous round’s next edge set.Round 2, Units 2–11: Use the right needleto string 1B; use the left needle tostring 2A. Pass the left needle downthrough the B just strung and con-tinue through the previous round’snext edge set (Fig. 4). Repeat aroundto add a total of 11 units.

celestial sparkleM A Y B R I SE B O I S

Stitch seven ultrasparkly

components and connect

them to create a bracelet

fit for a goddess.

Fig. 1: WorkingUnit 1

Fig. 2: Units 1and 2 of Round 1

Fig. 3: Completing Round 1

TECHNIQUE:: double-needle right-

angle weave


project


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page 18

Round 2, Unit 12: Use the left needle tostring 2A. Pass the right needle upthrough the first B added in thisround and back through the 2A just

strung to complete the round, butdon’t pull tight (Fig. 5).

Rivoli: Insert 1 rivoli facedown so therivoli’s back is toward the loosethread. Squeeze the rivoli into placebetween the bicones. Once it is

properly seated, tighten the laststitch from Round 2, Unit 12. Weaveone needle through the 2-bead edgesets at the back of the rivoli; repeat

with the other needle in the oppo-site direction, tightening the backof the bezel. When the needlesmeet, tie a square knot (Fig. 6).

Weave through beads to the frontof the rivoli and repeat this sectionto tighten the front of the bezel.Secure the thread and trim. Set thebezeled rivoli aside.

Repeat entire step six times to create

a total of 7 bezeled rivolis.

2) CONNECTIONS. Attach 5' ofthread to one of the bezels, leaving a20" tail and exiting through a 3-beadedge set. String 3A, 1B, and 3A; passthrough a 3-bead edge set of a secondbezel. String one 6mm crystal round.

Skip the next 3-bead edge set of thefirst bezel and pass through the follow-ing one. String 3A, 1B, and 3A (Fig. 7a).Pass back through the next edge set ofthe second bezel, pass through the6mm round, the skipped edge set ofthe first bezel, the first set of beadsadded in this step, and the next four3-bead edge sets of the second bezel to

complete the figure-eight connection(Fig. 7b). Repeat to connect all thebezels in a row. Exit from a 3-beadedge set at the end of the bracelet.

3) CLASP. String 6A; pass throughthe next edge set at the end of the

bracelet to form a loop. String 5A; pass through the sixth seed bead previously strung and back throughthe last edge set exited in Step 2 toform a second loop. Repeat the thread

path to reinforce; secure the threadand trim. Use 2 jump rings to attachone half of the clasp, connecting aring to each seed-bead loop (Fig. 8).Repeat entire step at the other end of thebracelet using the other half of the clasp.F

MATERIALS

2 g size 15° seed beads (A)

180 olivine AB 3mm crystal bicones (B)

6 ruby 6mm crystal rounds

7 crystal vitrail medium 14mm foiledcrystal rivolis

1 sterling silver 12mm round box claspwith garnet cubic zirconia inlay

4 brass 5mm jump rings


TOOLS

Scissors

2 size 11 beading needles

FINISHED SIZE: 7"

Fig. 4: StartingRound 2

Fig. 5: Complet-ing Round 2

Fig. 6: Tighten-

ing the back tosecure the rivoli

Fig. 7: Connecting 2 bezeled rivolis

a

b

Fig. 8: Attaching one half of the clasp

RESOURCES


Clasp: A Grain of Sand, (704) 660-3125,

www.agrainofsand.com. Swarovski

crystals, FireLine braided beading thread,

and all other beads and findings: BEADiful,

(678) 455-7858, www.beadifulgifts.com.

o p

t i o n

EASY EARRING ENSEMBLEFor perfectly coordinated earrings, repeatStep 1 to make 1 bezeled rivoli, stitch 1 wire-guard (or seed-bead loop) to one 3-bead edgeset, and attach 1 ear wire to the wireguard/beaded loop. Repeat for a second earring,and voilà.

MAY BRISEBOIS started beading in 2001.

Visit her website at www.beadifulgifts.com.


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page 19

TECHNIQUES:: right-angle weave:: peyote stitch:: fringe


pharaoh’sdaughterM A R C I A DEC O ST E R

he rich texture and smart shaping of

this crenulated collar are achieved by

using graduated sizes of seed beads and

gathering a strip of right-angle weave

into a ruffle.

project


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page 20

1) RIB 1. Use 3' of doubled thread,seed beads, and right-angle weave to

work the first rib:Row 1, Unit 1: String 1A and 3B; tie a

knot to form a tight circle and passthrough the first 2 beads.

Row 1, Unit 2: String 2B and 1A; passthrough the last B exited from the

previous unit and the 2B just added.

Row 1, Unit 3: String 1A and 2B; passthrough the last B exited from the

previous unit and the 1A and first B just added.

Row 1, Units 4–8: Repeat Units 2 and 3until you have a strip 8 units wide.

Weave through beads to exit fromthe A added in the final unit (Fig. 1).

Row 2: Work across Row 1 using 3A ineach unit (Fig. 2).

Row 3: Repeat Row 2.Row 4: Work across the row using 3B

in each unit.Row 5: Work across the row using 3C

in each unit.Row 6: Work across the row using 1C

(side)/1B (top)/1C (side) in each unit.Row 7: Work across the row using

1B/1A/1B in each unit (Fig. 3).

2) RIB 2. Continue working right-angle weave using beads in the followingorder to create the second rib:Rows 1 and 2: Work across the row with

3A in each unit.Row 3: Work across the row with 3B in

each unit.

Row 4: Work across the row with 3C ineach unit.

Row 5: Work across the row with1C/1B/1C in each unit.

Row 6: Work across the row with1B/1A/1B in each unit (Fig. 4).

3) RIBS 3–10. Repeat Rib 2 eight more

times.

4) INCREASING RIBS. Work the ribsas before, making increases at the be-ginning of Row 1:Rib 11: Repeat the bead pattern for

Rib 2 but work a 1-unit increase atthe end of Row 1 so the rib is 9 units

wide (Fig. 5).

Ribs 12 and 13: Repeat Rib 11, increas-ing by 1 more unit in each rib soRib 12 is 10 units wide and Rib 13is 11 units wide.

Ribs 14–16: Work the ribs as before butmake 2-unit increases in Row 1 ofeach rib for a total of 13 (Fig. 6), 15,and 17 units respectively.

5) DECREASING RIBS. Work the ribsas before, making decreases in Row 3:Ribs 17–19: Work the ribs as before but

make a 2-unit decrease in Row 3 ofeach rib for a total of 15 (Fig. 7), 13,and 11 units respectively.

Ribs 20–22: Work the ribs as before butmake a 1-unit decrease in Row 3 ofeach rib for a total of 10 (Fig. 8), 9,and 8 units respectively.

6) REMAINING RIBS. Work the re-maining ribs as before:Ribs 23–30: Repeat Rib 2 eight more

times.Rib 31: Repeat Rib 2; work 1 more row

using 3A in each unit and 1 morerow using 3B in each unit.

MATERIALS

8 g olive matte size 15° seed beads (A)

6 berry AB size 15° seed beads

10 g bronze metallic size 11° seed beads (B)

23 g olive matte AB size 8° seed beads (C)

31 olivine AB2x 3mm crystal bicones

6 volcano 4mm crystal sequins

30 bronze 3mm fire-polished rounds

2 gold-filled 6×8mm magnetic clasps


TOOLS

Scissors


FINISHED SIZE: 16"

Fig. 1: Working Row 1, Rib 1

Fig. 2: Row 2 of Rib 1

Fig. 3: Completing Rib 1

Fig. 5: Working a 1-unit increase to begin Rib 11

Fig. 6: Working a 2-unit increase to begin Rib 14

Fig. 7: Working a 2-unit decrease in Rib 17

Fig. 8: Working a 1-unit decrease in Rib 20

A R T I S T ’ S T I P

It is quite easy to decreaseaccidentally when changingbead sizes in right-angle

weave. Thus, it is helpful tocount the number of units atthe end of each row to confirm

the correct number beforemoving on to the next row.

Fig. 4: Ribs 1 and 2

Rib 2

{{Rib 1


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page 21

7) CLASPS. Securely sew the clasphalves to the ends of the necklace,one between Units 2 and 3 and onebetween Units 6 and 7 (Fig. 9). Securethe thread and trim. Set the collar aside.

8) CLASP COVER. Use 3' of doubledthread to create a beaded tube:Tube: Peyote-stitch a strip 10 beads

wide and 48 rows long using 1B in eachstitch. Fold the tube so the first and last

rows interlock. Weave the beadstogether to zip the strip into a tube.Fringe: Weave through beads to exit

toward the beadwork, from a centerB on the tube. *String 1 sequin and1 berry size 15°; pass back throughthe sequin and the next center B onthe tube (Fig. 10). Repeat five timesto add a total of 6 sequins.

Assembly: Slide the tube over the claspsattached to Rib 31. Arrange the tubeso the sequins face up and thetube’s edge nearest the beadworktouches Row 3. Securely stitch theedge at the back of the tube to theback of the necklace. Secure thethread and trim.

9) FINAL SHAPING. Start a 2' dou-bled thread that exits from the firstside C of Rib 1 on the inside of the col-lar. *String 1 bicone and pass throughthe next side C on the inside of thenecklace. String 1B, 1 fire-polishedround, and 1B; pass through the nextrib’s first side C on the inside of the

necklace. Repeat from *, pullinggently after each addition to cause thebeadwork to ruffle, until you reachthe final rib (Fig. 11). Even the threadtension to form a smooth curve.Secure the thread and trim. F

RESOURCES


FireLine braided beading thread and all

beads and findings: The Beading Frenzy,

(650) 347-2323, www.thebeadingfrenzy.com.

Fig. 10: Embellishing the clasp cover

Fig. 11: Gathering the beadwork into a rufeFig. 9: Attaching the clasps


When adding the clasps,make sure you have matchingmagnets opposite one another.

MARCIA DECOSTER is a bead artist, bead-

weaving instructor, and author of Marcia

DeCoster's Beaded Opulence: Elegant Jew-

elry Projects with Right-Angle Weave (Lark

Books, 2009). She lives in San Diego and con-

siders her job perfect: sharing her knowledge

with others, meeting interesting beaders, andplaying with beads. Visit Marcia's website,

www.marciadecoster.com or read her blog at

www.maddesignsbeads.blogspot.com.


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page 22

terracita

braceletM A R C I A DEC O ST E R

Every year, Marcia travels

to the quiet coastal town of

Manzanillo, Mexico, loaded

down with design inspira-

tion and beads. In December 2004, she brought with her a

book containing Frank Hess–

designed costume jewelry from

the 1950s. A bracelet designed

with rose montée-studded

medallions caught her eye and

inspired her to create similarshapes encrusted with crystals

and fire-polished beads and

joined end to end.TECHNIQUE:: right-angle weave


project


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page 23

1) MEDALLION BASE.

Round 1: Use 4' of thread to string 16B;tie a knot with the tail thread toform a circle. Pass through the first2 beads to begin the first round ofcircular right-angle weave:

Unit 1: String 8B; pass through the last2 beads passed through and thefirst 2B just strung (Fig. 1).

Unit 2: String 6B; pass back through

the next 2 beads of the circle, upthrough the last 2 beads of the previous unit, through the 6 beads just strung and the next 2 beads ofthe circle (Fig. 2).

Unit 3: String 6B and pass through thelast 2 beads of the previous unit,the last 2 beads of the circle, andthe first 2 beads just strung (Fig. 3).

Units 4-7: Repeat Units 2 and 3,stringing 6B and alternating the

thread direction for each unit.Unit 8: String 4B; pass down through

the first 2 beads of the first unit,back through 2 beads of the circle,through the last 2 beads of the

previous unit and the first 2 beads

just strung (Fig. 4).Round 2: String 7B and pass through

the last 2 beads passed through and

the first 2 beads just strung (Fig. 5).Continue working right-angle

weave, stringing 5B and passingthrough 2 beads of the previousround in alternating directionsfor each unit; string 3B to completethe sixteenth unit (Fig. 6).

2) EMBELLISHMENT. Cover thebase net with accent and seed beads:Filling: Pass through a pair of beads

between 2 units in the secondround. String 1 nailhead and passthrough the next pair of beads(Fig. 7). Continue around to add anailhead to each unit in Round 2,then repeat to add a 4mm bead toeach unit in Round 1.

Picots: Exit from a bead betweenRounds 1 and 2. String 3A and passthrough the next 2 beads; continuearound for a total of 16 picots (Fig. 8).

Center: Exit from a bead in the founda-tion circle. String 1 bicone, skip2 beads, and pass through thefollowing 2 beads; repeat three timesto add 4 bicones to the center of

MATERIALS

10 g bronze luster size 15° seed beads (A)

15 g olivine gold luster size 11° seedbeads (B)

5 g green luster size 11° seed beads (C)

24 olivine AB 4mm crystal bicones

72 black 4mm fire-polished rounds

96 green mottled 4×2mm nailheads

1 gold 6×8mm magnetic clasp*Beading thread in color to match beads

TOOLS

Scissors


FINISHED SIZE: 8¼"

Fig. 1: Working Unit 1

Fig. 2: Stitching Unit 1

Fig. 3: Working Unit 3

Fig. 4: Finishing Round 1

Fig. 5: Starting Round 2

Fig. 6:FinishingRound 2

Fig. 7: Filling the Units of Round 2


25/37



page 24

the medallion. Pass through thefirst bicone, string 1A, and passthrough the next bicone; continuearound (Fig. 9). Pass through the

bicones and seed beads severaltimes to reinforce. Weave throughbeads to exit from the outer edgeof the last round. Pass through allthe edge beads, pulling the threadtight to snug the beads togetherand shape the medallion; passthrough the beads again to

reinforce, then set aside.Repeat Steps 1–2 for a total of6 medallions.

3) CONNECTIONS. Work 2 right-angle-weave units along the edge of amedallion, using 2 of the edge beadsand 6C to form the first unit. Work2 more units using C beads, passingthrough edge beads of a secondmedallion, to make a 4-unit connec-tion (Fig. 10). Embellish each unit with

a nailhead as before, then weavethrough all the beads to reinforce theconnection. Pass through beads tothe opposite edge, and repeat toconnect the next medallion.

4) CLASP. Using C beads, work a4-unit strip at the end of the bracelet,opposite from the last connection.

Work a fifth unit and attach one half ofthe clasp (Fig. 11). Weave throughbeads several times to reinforce,secure the thread, and trim. Attach

the other half of the clasp to theunderside of the first medallion nearthe center of beads. F

RESOURCES


Swarovski crystals and seed beads: Out

On A Whim, (800) 232-3111, whimbeads

.com. Nailheads: Creative Castle, (805)

499-1377, www.creativecastle.com.

Fig. 9: Working the center Fig. 10: The right-angle-weave connections

Fig. 11: Attaching the clasp

Fig. 8: Adding picots MARCIA DECOSTER is a bead artist, bead-

weaving instructor, and author of Marcia De-

Coster’s Beaded Opulence: Elegant Jewelry

Projects with Right-Angle Weave (Lark Books,

2009). She lives in San Diego and considers

her job perfect: sharing her knowledge with

others, meeting interesting beaders, and

playing with beads. Visit Marcia's website,

www.marciadecoster.com or read her blog at

www.maddesignsbeads.blogspot.com.


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page 25

egyptian collarSH E L L E Y N Y B A K K E

his mighty necklace’s multilayerright-angle-weave rectangles are

woven separately and then

connected with loops of beads.

TECHNIQUE:: right-angle weave


project


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page 26

1) RECTANGLE. Use seed and cubebeads to work a 3-layer rectangle withright-angle weave:Layer 1: Use 6' of thread and seed

beads to work a right-angle-weaverectangle 9 units long and 4 rows

wide. Weave through beads to exittoward the work from the bead thatconnects the last 2 units made (Fig. 1a).

Layer 2 (vertical beads): String 1 seedbead and pass through the nextLayer 1 vertical seed bead; pull thethread tight until the bead clicksinto place. Repeat to add a total of3 seed beads. Weave through thenext 2 Layer 1 beads to begin thenext row (Fig. 1b). Repeat this rowseven times to add a total of 24 beads.

Layer 2 (horizontal beads): Use seed beadsto work off the Layer 2 vertical beadsto complete 21 right-angle-weaveunits, adding a total of 28 beads (Fig. 2).

Layer 3 (seed beads): Weave throughbeads to exit toward the work froma horizontal bead left of center at

the end of this layer (Fig. 3a). String1 seed bead; pass through the nextLayer 2 horizontal bead. Pull tightso the bead clicks into place. Repeatdown the strip to add a total of6 seed beads. Weave through thenext 2 Layer 2 beads to begin thenext row (Fig. 3b). Repeat this stepto add a total of 12 beads.

Layer 3 (cubes): Use cubes to work offthe beads already added in thislayer for a total of 7 right-angle-

weave units (Fig. 4). Secure thethread and trim. Set aside.

Repeat entire step twelve times for atotal of 13 rectangles.

2) CONNECTING LOOPS. Connectthe rectangles with loops of seed andcube beads:Loop 1: Start 6' of thread that exits

up through 1 rectangle’s top righthorizontal bead on the long side.String 4 seed beads, 1 cube, and 4 seedbeads; pass down through the bead ona second rectangle that mirrors the

last one exited on the first rectangle(this completes the top half of theloop). String 4 seed beads, 1 cube, and4 seed beads; pass up through the lastbead exited on the first rectangle toform an oval loop, connecting the rect-angles (this completes the bottom halfof the loop). Weave through beadsto exit down through the next

Layer 1 horizontal side bead onthe long side of the first rectangle(Fig. 5).

Loop 2: Repeat the stringing sequencefrom Loop 1 to connect the secondside beads of the 2 rectangles.

MATERIALS

100 g raw brass size 11° metal seed bead

1 turquoise 4×6mm rondelle

691 raw brass 2.5mm metal cornerless cub

1 raw brass 5mm dimpled round

1 brass 17×17.5mm dragonfly link

2 brass 18mm square links

1 brass 1" head pin

1 brass 1½" eye pin

3 brass 5mm 18-gauge jump rings1 brass 8×13mm lobster clasp

4" of brass 6×9mm etched oval chain


TOOLS

Scissors

Size 10 needle

Wire cutters

Chain-nose pliers

Round-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZE: 19"ADJUSTABLE TO 21"

Fig. 2: Layer 2 horizontal beads indicated in green

Fig. 3: Layer 3 horizontal beads indicated in purple

Fig. 4: Adding the Layer 3 cubes

Fig. 5: Connecting 2 rectangles

a

b

a

b

Fig. 1: Layer 2 vertical beads indicated in orange


28/37



page 27

For this and the following loops,be sure that the top half of the loopremains above the bottom half ofthe prior loop (the loop halves willbegin to stack). Weave throughbeads to exit from the rectangle’sthird side bead.

Loops 3 and 4: Connect the 2 rectanglesas before, stringing 4 seed beads,

2 cubes, and 4 seed beads for thefront and back halves of the loop.

Weave through beads to exit fromthe first rectangle’s next side bead.

Loops 5 and 6: Repeat as before, string-ing 4 seed beads, 3 cubes, and4 seed beads for each half of the loop.

Loops 7 and 8: Repeat as before, string-ing 4 seed beads, 4 cubes, and4 seed beads for each half of the loop.

Loop 9: Repeat as before, stringing

4 seed beads, 5 cubes, and 4 seedbeads for each half of the loop.Repeat entire step five times toconnect a total of 7 rectangles.Connect 3 rectangles to one end ofthe necklace, replacing the 4 seedbead/cube/4 seed bead sequences

with 6 seed bead/cube/6 seed beadsequences; repeat to add 3 rectanglesat the other end of the necklace in thesame manner.

3) END LOOPS. Form seed-beadloops to connect the ends of thenecklace to the square links: Start6' of thread so it exits up through themiddle Layer 1 horizontal bead on thelong side of one end of the necklace.

String 14 seed beads and 1 square linkand pass through the last rectanglebead exited. Weave through beads toexit down through the next Layer 1horizontal side bead (Fig. 6). String14 seed beads; pass through the squarelink in the same direction as beforeand down through the rectangle beadlast exited. Weave through beads to

exit up through the next Layer 1 hori-zontal side bead. Repeat entire stepdown the side using 16–18 seed beadsinstead of 14 for the last 2 loops.

Weave through beads to repeat theloop sequence on the other half of thesame rectangle, making sure all theloops lie in the same direction. Securethe thread and trim.Repeat entire step on the other end ofthe necklace to attach the remaining

square link.

4) CLASP. Add an embellishedextender chain and clasp to the links:Extender: Use 1 jump ring to connect

2½" of chain to 1 of the square links.Chain embellishment: Use the eye pin to

string the rondelle and 5mm round;form a wrapped loop that attaches tothe free end of the previous chain.Open the eye-pin loop as you would a

jump ring and string the head end of

the dragonfly link; close the loop. Usethe head pin to string 1 seed bead;form a simple loop that connects tothe tail end of the dragonfly link (Fig. 7).

Clasp: Use a jump ring to connect theclasp to one end of 7/8" of chain.Use the remaining jump ring toconnect the free end of the previouschain to the remaining square link. F

RESOURCES



beads and findings: The Bead Parlor,(309) 827-7708, www.thebeadparlor.com.

Fig. 6: Attaching one end to 1 link

Fig. 7: Embellishing the clasp chain


For added sparkle, replace thecornerless cubes with 3mmcrystal bicones or rounds. Toavoid thread breakage when

working with crystals, switchto a double strand of 10 lbbraided beading thread and a

size 12 needle.

SHELLEY NYBAKKE owns The Bead Parlor in

Bloomington, Illinois, where she also teaches

a variety of classes. She has the wonderful

privilege of traveling and teaching workshops

around the country. She thinks a day without

beads is hardly ever worth getting out of bed for.


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page 28

starshine jewelSC A R L E T T L A N SO N

Tis stunning and versatile

accessory features an

otherworldly fancy stone

framed with crystals and adramatic flash of labradorite

accents. Te piece is woven with an

embellished version of herringbone stitch and

closed with a matching embroidered silk ribbon.

TECHNIQUES:: tubular right-angle weave

:: tubular peyote stitch:: ladder stitch

:: herringbone stitch

variation

:: picot

:: fringe:: spot stitch


project


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page 29


• Experiment with differentcolors and textures of cord,

such as suede or velvet. Youcan also switch the cords tomatch your outfit.

• Cull your beads beforeworking Round 3 of Step 2to choose 24 of the

skinniest rondelles (about1.5mm thick) for the bezel’sgemstone embellishment

row (it’s unwise to force atoo-thick stone into thisround). If you find that these

skinnier rondelles have holestoo small to pass through,

remove your needle andthread the bead without it(you won’t be passingthrough these rondelles

again, so you won’t need toworry about getting a secondthread to pass through) .

MATERIALS

3 g palladium size 15° seed beads (A)

10 g matte metallic silver green irissize 11° seed beads (B)

3 g metallic silver green iris size 11°seed beads (C)

2 g transparent silver size 11° seedbeads (D)

24 clear purple haze 3mm crystalbicones

44 light rose satin 4mm crystal bicones

69 sand opal 4mm crystal bicones

1 clear starlight 18×25mm crystal ovalfancy stone

93 labradorite 3×1.5–2mm facetedrondelles

2 labradorite 6mm faceted briolettes

13" of brown 4mm silk cord


TOOLS


Scissors

FINISHED SIZE: 1¼ × 7"

1) BEZEL. Use 3' of thread and tighttension to work tubular right-angle

weave and peyote stitch, creating abezel for the fancy stone:Round 1: Use C to stitch a strip of right-

angle weave 23 units long and 1unit high. Connect the first and lastunits by stringing 1C and passingdown through the end 1C of Unit 1.

String 1C and pass up through theend 1C of Unit 23 and the first 1Cstrung for this unit (Fig. 1). Pull tightto draw the strip into a ring.

Bottom, Round 2: String 1B and passthrough the next 1C at the edge ofthe ring; repeat, peyote-stitching

around, to add a total of 24B (Fig. 2).

Bottom, Round 3: Work around in peyotestitch with 1A in each stitch. Weavethrough beads to exit from 1C atthe other edge of Round 1.

Top, Round 2: Work around in right-angle weave using A, pausing a

quarter of the way around to set thefancy stone, faceup, into the bead-

work (Fig. 3). Continue working

right-angle weave with A, pullingthe beadwork tight against the

fancy stone with each stitch andconnecting the first and last unitsas in Round 1. Weave throughthe round again to tighten andreinforce, closing any gaps so thefancy stone is firmly seated. Weavethrough beads to exit 1C at thebottom of Round 1.

2) EMBELLISHMENT. Work roundsof simple fringe off the bezel:Round 1 (fringe): String 1 sand opal

bicone and 1C; pass back throughthe bicone to form a fringe. Passthrough the next bottom 1C in theround (Fig. 4). Repeat around to add

a total of 24 fringes. Weave throughRound 1 of the bezel to exit a hori-zontal C, toward the bottom of thebezel.

Round 2 (fringe): Pass through the next

2 C of the right-angle weave unit tothe right. String 1A, 1 purple hazebicone, and 1A; pass back throughthe bicone, string 1A, and pass downthrough the nearest horizontal C tothe left in Round 1 of the bezel toform a fringe. Pass through the next2 C of the current right-angle weaveunit. String 1A, 1 purple haze bicone,and 1A; pass back through the bicone,string 1A. Pass down through thenearest horizontal C to the right to

form another fringe. Repeat aroundto add a total of 24 fringes (Fig. 5).

Weave through beads to exit thebezel from 1C, at the top of Round 1.

Round 3: String 1 rondelle and passthrough the next top 1C of thebezel’s Round 1. Repeat to add atotal of 24 rondelles. Secure thethread and trim. Set the bezel aside.

Fig. 1: Stitching Round 1 into a ring

Fig. 2: Working Round 2 at the bottom of thebezel

Fig. 3: Working Round 2 at the top of thebezel

Fig. 4: Adding the firstround of fringe

Fig. 5: Working the second round of fringe


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3) LONG BAND. Leaving a 12" tail,use 3' of thread and modifiedherringbone stitch to work thelong half of the bracelet band:Base: Work a strip of ladder stitch 2B

high and 9B long, leaving an 8" tail .Exit up through the last 1B added.

Row 1: String 1B, 1A, and 1B; skip1 base B and pass down through

the next 2 base Bs and up throughthe following 2B. Repeat across therow to form 3 picots. Step up for thenext row by looping under thethread between the bottom basebeads, passing up through the last2 base Bs exited, and through thefinal bead added in this row (Fig. 6).

Row 2: String 1B, pass through the previous row’s nearest A, string 1B, and pass down through the next B ofthe previous row; string 1C and

pass up through the next B in the previous row. Repeat across therow. To complete the row, passdown through the first B added inthe previous row. String 1 sand opalbicone and 1D; pass back throughthe bicone and up through the final

B added in this row (Fig. 7).

Row 3: String 1B, 1 rondelle, and 1B; pass down through the next 1B, theadjacent 1C, and up through thenext 1B. Repeat once. For the final

stitch, string 1B, 1 rondelle, and 1B; pass down through the next 2B.String 1 sand opal bicone and 1D;

pass back through the bicone andup through the final 1B added inthis row (Fig. 8).

Row 4: Repeat Row 2, passing through ron-delles instead of As and using 1 light

rose instead of 1 sand opal bicone.Row 5: Repeat Row 3, using As in place

of the rondelles and using 1 lightrose instead of the sand opal bicone.

Rows 6–69: Repeat Rows 2–5 sixteen times.Row 70: Repeat Row 3.Rows 71–74: Repeat Rows 4, 5, 2, and 3,

in that order, omitting the biconefringes. Make the step-ups for eachrow by looping between threads.Secure the working thread and trim;do not trim the tail thread. Set the longband aside.

Buttonholes: Leaving a 6" tail, use 2' ofthread to work a new piece of bead-

work by repeating the base row andRows 1 and 2 of this step, omittingthe bicone. Repeat Row 3, but insteadof adding new rondelles, stitch intothe matching rondelles of the longband’s Row 71; omit the bicone. Stitch1B into the gap on the outer left edgeof the band; weave the tail threadthrough beads to stitch 1B to theouter right side of the band (Fig. 9).

Weave the working and tail threadsthrough the beadwork around thebuttonholes to reinforce; secure thethreads and trim.

Attachment: Use the long band’s tailthread to securely stitch the B at theend of the base row to 7 of the As on

one side of Round 3 at the back of thebezel; keep the band centered (Fig. 10).

4) SHORT BAND. Create a band as before:Band: Repeat the base row and Rows 1–14

(ending on a repeat of Row 3) of Step 3to create a band 1" long; set aside.

Buttonholes: Leaving a 6" tail, use 2' ofthread to work a new piece of bead-

work by repeating the base row andRows 1–6 of Step 3, but switch thespecified bicone colors (use lightrose for sand opal, and vice versa).Repeat Row 3 of Step 3, stitchinginto the rondelles of the 1" band’sRow 14 to create buttonholes.

Weave through the edge beads andadd the light-rose fringe necessaryto continue the pattern down thesides of the band. Weave throughthe beadwork around the button-holes to reinforce; secure thethreads and trim.

Attachment: Use the short-band’s tail

thread to attach its base row to theopposite side of the bezel, stitchingthrough Round 3 and keeping theband centered as before.

5) CORD. Tie a knot at the end of 3' ofthread, leaving a 10" tail. Stitch intothe cord ¼" from one end at the seam.String 1A, stitch into the cord rightnext to the last stitch, and exit ¼" far-ther down the seam (Fig. 11); repeat

down the length of the seam, leaving¼" of bare cord at the end.

Fig. 7: Working Row 2 of the long band

Fig. 8: Addingfringe at theend of Row 3

Fig. 9: Creating buttonholes

Fig. 10: Stitchingthe long band toone side of thebezel

Fig. 11:Spot-stitchingthe cord

Fig. 6: FinishingRow 1 of thelong band


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Ends: String 10A, wrap the beads aroundthe cord, and pass through themagain to create a ring; pull tight. Work6 rounds of tubular peyote stitchusing 1A in each stitch. Trim anyexcess cord so it is flush with the endof the tube. Stitch into the cord and

exit from the end. String 1 briolette; pass back into the cord end and intothe peyote-stitched tube; repeat thethread path to reinforce. Weavethrough the tube beads to exit fromthe last round. Work 2 more rounds

of tubular peyote stitch using 1A ineach stitch so the beadwork framesthe base of the briolette. Secure thethread and trim. Use the tail thread tofinish the opposite end of the cord inthe same manner.

Assembly: Overlap the ends of the

bracelet so the short band coversthe long band, with the buttonholesaligned. Weave one cord end upthrough one hole and the othercord end up through the secondhole. Tie a bow to secure.F

RESOURCES


Kits, including Swarovski crystal bicones

and fancy stone (#4120), FireLine braided

beading thread, and all other beads and

findings: Scarlett Lanson, scarlatte424@

yahoo.com, www.thebeadersmuse.com.

SCARLETT LANSON has discovered many

new and ingenious ways to stitch with seed

beads. Her creative uses of crystals, gem-

stones, and pearls in tandem with woven

beadwork make her designs stand out. She

intends to publish an inspirational book for

beaders and run her own bead store in the

future. Visit her website at www.thebeaders

muse.com and contact her at scarlatte424@

yahoo.com.


This design is absolutely stunning as a choker. Simply create alonger embellished cord, thread all of the buttonholes, and tiethe ends together at the back. Wear the focal off to the side for

a glamorous and fashionable look.

http://www.interweavestore.com/peyotedvd


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page 32

ellipse

necklaceM A R C I A DEC O ST E R

his elegant necklace

draws visual power from

the strong geometry in itscurved and layered right-

angle-weave pendant.

TECHNIQUES:: right-angle

weave:: peyote stitch:: picot:: ladder stitch


project


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page 33

PENDANT1) SQUARE. Use E to work a right-angle-weave square (Fig. 1a) that willlater be turned and used as the

pendant’s central diamond:Side 1: Use 5' of thread to stitch a strip

of right-angle weave 9 units longand 3 rows wide.

Side 2: Work 3 units and turn. Workback and forth on these 3 units for atotal of 6 short rows (you will nowhave an L-shaped 9-by-9 unit).

Side 3: Weave through beads to exitthe inside edge of the final row ofSide 2 and work a new row of 3 units.

Work back and forth on these 3 unitsfor a total of 6 short rows (you willnow have a U-shaped 9-by-9 unit).

Side 4: Weave through beads to exit

the inside edge of the final row ofSide 3 and work 3 units. Work onemore 3-unit row. Join the last rowof Side 4 to the beads of Side 1 tocomplete the square.

2) ELLIPSES. Working off oppositecorners of the square, use E and A to

work 2 right-angle-weave ellipses:Side 1, Row 1: Weave through beads to

exit the third edge bead from acorner. Use 3E to work the first unit.

Moving toward the corner, weave asecond unit using 1E for the bottombead and 1A for the side bead. Onthe third unit, use 1A for both thebottom and side beads (Fig. 1b).

Side 1, Rows 2–11: Work 3 units acrossin the same bead-size pattern asRow 1. The work will curve.

Side 1, Rows 12 and 13: Work 3 units acrossusing all E. Weave through beads toexit the inside edge bead of Row 13.

Side 2, Row 1: Work 1 unit of 3E.Moving toward the center of thecurve, stitch a second unit using 1Efor the top bead and 1A for the sidebead. On the third unit, use 1A forboth the top and side beads (Fig. 1c).

Side 2, Rows 2–9: Work 3 units across inthe same bead-size pattern asSide 2, Row 1. Join the final row to

the corresponding 3 edge beads of

the adjacent side of the square.Repeat entire step on the oppositecorner of the square to create an upperellipse. Secure the thread and trim.Set the blue pendant layer aside.Repeat Steps 1 and 2, this time usingC instead of A, and F instead of E tomake the bronze pendant layer.

3) LAYERS AND EDGES. Use G andright-angle weave to join the layersalong their outside edges (each unit

will consist of 1E, 1G, 1F, and 1G). Work 1 row of right-angle weaveusing E along the entire outside edgeof the blue layer. Note: To work the

corners, add an additional unit ofright-angle weave using 3E (Fig. 2).

4) BAIL. Start 3' of new thread that exitsfrom the outside edge of the third unitleft of the tip on the blue layer’s upperellipse. Repeat Rows 1–11 of Step 2,using E along the outside as before andC (instead of A) along the inside edge(Fig. 3). Fold the strip in half and join the

last row to the same blue layer’s edgebeads that are attached to the first row.Repeat on the other side of the bluelayer’s upper ellipse to make a secondbail to mirror the first.

MATERIALS

12 metallic gold size 15° seed beads

1 g blue metallic size 15° seed beads (A)

2 g dark bronze size 15° seed beads (B)

1 g bronze size 15° hex-cut beads (C)

1 g silver-lined orange size 15° seedbeads (D)

5 g blue metallic size 11° seed beads (E)

3 g dark bronze size 11° seed beads (F)

1 g light brown AB size 11° seed beads (G)1 g reddish bronze size 11° cylinder

beads (H)

12 topaz AB 4mm crystal sequins


TOOLS

Scissors


FINISHED SIZE: 25"WITH 1¾ × 5" PENDANT

Fig. 1: Working the central square and rst ellipse

a

b

c

Fig. 3: First half of the bail

Fig. 2: Working the extra row of E andthe point increase


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page 34

5) EMBELLISHMENT LINE. Weavethrough beads to exit from an inside Cat the tip of the bronze layer. String 1D;

pass through the side 1C of the nextrow’s adjacent unit. Repeat to create anorange line along the inside edge of theellipse (Fig. 4a), continuing through theoutside edge of the square (Fig. 4b), into

the corresponding B of the next ellipse,and up the other side of the square.Secure the thread and trim.

NECKLACE6) BEADED BEADS. Use sequins,cylinder beads, and seed beads to

peyote-stitch a beaded bead (Fig. 5):Tube: Use 4' of thread to peyote-stitch

a rectangle 9H wide and 28 rowslong. Zip the ends together to forma tube. Weave through beads to exit1H at the tube’s edge.

Picots: String 3E; pass downthrough the next edgebead and up through thefollowing. Repeat aroundto add a total of 7 picots.Repeat to add picots along theother edge of the tube. Weavethrough beads to exit 1H at the

midpoint of the tube.Sequins: String 1 sequin and

1 metallic gold size 15°; pass backthrough the sequin and throughthe next 1H. Weave through beadsto exit 1H four rows away; repeat toadd a total of 6 sequins. Weavethrough beads to exit from an Hedge bead.

Rim: Ladder-stitch a strip of 20D.Position the strip along the edgearound the tube and stitch the first

and last beads together to form aring. Sew through the strip and thetube edge every few beads to tackthe strip in place. Repeat on theother end of the tube. Do not cutthe thread.

Repeat entire step for a secondbeaded bead.

7) ROPE. Work a tubular right-angle- weave rope 5 units around and 25"

long, using 1E for both the top andbottom and 1B for the sides of each unit.Before joining the ends together, use therope to string 1 beaded bead, the bail,and 1 beaded bead. Use the workingthread from the beaded beads to sewthem into place on the rope, 1½" fromeach side of the bail.F

a

b

Fig. 5: Beaded bead


To increase your speed,choose a manageable threadlength no longer than about5'. Thread longer than this willactually slow you down. Thetime it takes to weave in a newthread is minimal compared tothe extra pulls of thread, plus

the time spent to overcomepossible tangles.

A R T I S T ’ S T I P S• Although it is never our intent,

occasionally a favorite piecemay require repair. In prepara-tion for this possibility, Marcia

always fills a ziplock bag with afew of each bead used in thedesign and labels it with theproject name. These bags live inher “to repair” drawer shouldshe ever need to utilize theircontents.

• Marcia finds she is often inspiredto create a palette for a designbefore she’s ready to bead it.She fills a small pencil box with

the chosen beads, labels the in-tended project, and places it inher “to be beaded” pile.

RESOURCES

Check your local bead store or contact:


other beads and findings: The Beading

Frenzy, (650) 347-2323, www.thebeading

frenzy.com.

Fig. 4: Embellishing the bronze layer

MARCIA DECOSTER is a bead artist, bead-

weaving instructor, and author of Marcia De-

Coster’s Beaded Opulence: Elegant Jewelry

Projects with Right-Angle Weave (Lark Books,

2009). She lives in San Diego and considers

her job perfect: sharing her knowledge with

others, meeting interesting beaders, and

playing with beads. Visit Marcia's website,

www.marciadecoster.com or read her blog atwww.maddesignsbeads.blogspot.com.


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page 35

FR I N G E

Exit from your foundationrow of beads or fabric. Stringa length of beads plus 1 bead.Skipping the last bead, passback through all the beads just strung to create a fringeleg. Pass back into the foun-

dation row or fabric.

L AD D E R ST I T C H

String 2 beads and pass through them again.String 1 bead. Pass through the last stitchedbead and the one just strung. Repeat, adding1 bead at a time and working in a figure-eight pattern. Use this stitch to make strings of beadsor as the foundation for brick and herringbonestitches.

B R I C K ST I T C H

Begin by creating a foundation row in ladderstitch. String 2 beads and pass under the closestexposed loop of the foundation row and backthrough the second bead. String 1 bead and passunder the next exposed loop and back throughthe bead just strung; repeat.

o decrease within a row, string 1 bead andskip a loop of thread on the previous row, pass-

ing under the second loop and back throughthe bead.o increase within a row, work two stitches in

the same loop on the previous row.

RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE( D O UB L E N E E D L E )

o begin double-needle right-angle weave,use one needle on each end of the thread tostring 3 beads to the center of the thread. *Useone needle to string 1 bead, then pass the otherneedle back through it. String 1 bead on eachneedle, then repeat from * to form a chain ofright-angle units (A).

o turn at the end of the row, use the left nee-

dle to string 3 beads, then cross the right needleback through the last bead strung (B). Use theright needle to string 3 beads, then cross the leftneedle back through the last bead strung (C). ocontinue the row, use the right needle to string2 beads; pass the left needle through the nextbead on the previous row and back through thelast bead strung (D).

Start

A B C

D

R IGHT-ANGLE WEAVE

For single-needleright-angle weave,string 4 beads and pass through the first3 beads again to formthe first unit (A). Forthe rest of the row,string 3 beads, passthrough the last bead passed through in the previous unit, and the first2 just strung; the thread path will resemble a fig-ure eight, alternating directions with each unit.o begin the next row, pass through beads to exitthe side bead of the last unit. String 3 beads, passthrough the last bead passed through, and thefirst bead just strung (B). *String 2 beads, passback through the next edge bead of the previousrow, the last bead passed through in the previousunit, and the last 2 beads just strung (C). Pass

through the next edge bead of the previous row,string 2 beads, pass through the last bead of the previous unit, the edge bead just passed through,and the first bead just strung (D). Repeat from *to complete the row, then begin a new row asbefore.

A

B

C

D

N E T T I N G ( S I N G L E T H R E AD )

Begin by stringing a base row of 13 beads. String5 beads and pass back through the fifth bead fromthe end of the base row. String another 5 beads,skip 3 beads of the base row, and pass backthrough the next; repeat to the end of the row. oturn, pass back through the last 3 beads (one leg ofthe last net). String 5 beads, pass back through thecenter bead of the next net and continue.

techniques

ST R I N G I N G

Stringing is a technique in which you usebeading wire, needle and thread, or other mate-rial to gather beads into a strand.

SQ UAR E ST I T C H

Begin by string-ing a row of beads.For the secondrow, string 2 beads, pass through thesecond-to-lastbead of the firstrow, and throughthe second bead just strung. Continue by string-ing 1 bead, passing through the third-to-lastbead of the first row, and through the bead juststrung. Repeat this looping technique to the endof the row.

For circular square stitch, string the firstround of beads and pass through thema ga in t o form acircle. Start a newround by string-

ing 2 beads; passthrough the lastbead of the f irstround and throughthe 2 beads just strung. Repeat all around, passing through the next bead of the previousround for each 2 new beads strung. At the endof the round, pass through the w hole roundagain to tighten the beads. Start a new roundby stringing 2 beads; pass through the l astbead of the previous round and through the2 beads just strung. String 1 bead and passthrough the next bead of the previous roundand the bead just strung. Repeat around,stitching 1 or 2 beads to each bead of the previous round, adjusting the count as necessaryto keep the work flat.


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techniques

FLAT PEYOTE ST ITCH

One-drop peyote stitch begins by stringing aneven number of beads to create the first two rows.Begin the third row by stringing 1 bead and pass-ing through the second-to-last bead of the previ-ous rows. String another bead and pass throughthe fourth-to-last bead of the previous rows. Con-tinue adding 1 bead at a time, passing over everyother bead of the

Best of BW - Right Angle Weave

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