BELAY

RESCUE LOAD BELAYS

The trend within the rescue community regarding belays is toward soft interface. Most systems have moved away from using cammed ascenders as any part of the systems for rescue loads because rope damage or breakage/failure of those devices can occur, often before the load is actually caught.

In this class, we will be using Tandem Prusiks with a Radium Release Hitch (RRH) for all belays of more than one body weight. Tandem Prusiks have been tested with drop loads with favorable results, catching the load before other parts of the system, the damaged belay, or the tandem Prusiks themselves failed. Metal cammed ascenders, 8-plates, stitch plates, etc. do not work and will not be used for rescue loads.

As mentioned before in definitions, a load releasing hitch (LRH) is a method of decreasing the forces on the system by slacking the system or releasing the load at a pre-arranged point. We will be using the RRH during this section and throughout the class.

OBJECTIVE:

Demonstrate an understanding of the material and the dangers involved with operating a rescue belay.

Rig a RRH.

Rig tandem Prusiks.

Operate as a belayer using a tandem Prusik belay.

Operate a RRH.

EQUIPMENT:

Anchor material

1 32 ft. x 8mm Prusik cord

2 locking carabiners

1 set of tandem 8mm Prusiks

Belay line (1/2” static rope)

1 PMP (Prusik minding pulley)

BELAY SAFETY

Considerations for Belay - Tandem Prusiks (for rescue load).

Be an ATTENTIVE belayer. Do not leave belay system unattended.

Do not wrap thumb around belay line when using a Tandem Prusik belay.

Maintain a twist of the wrist, ( S ), when belaying with tandem Prusiks to ensure some slack (less than 12 inches), in the belay line.

Belayer should build their belay system at a height and position so that they can operate it comfortably, efficiently and safely.

NEVER use metal cammed ascenders or figure 8 plates in any part of a belay system for rescue loads.

Never let go of the rope with either hand. When you need to move your hands, slide them along the rope instead.

BUILDING A BELAY SYSTEM

Rig/establish an anchor system

Rig/establish a belay line

Attach the tandem Prusiks to the belay lineLong Prusik nearest the loadDress your knots

Clip the tandem Prusiks to the RRH on the anchor system

(If available, add a PMP after the tandem Prusiks)

Safety check the system

One rescuer is designated belayer as their only task

The belayer keeps the Prusiks from unintentional lock-off

In the event of main line failure, the belayer lets go

Radium Release Hitch

(Zone One Standard Release Hitch)

Facts about the Radium Release Hitch:

Much stronger. Old release hitch rated at 17 Kn., approximately 3800 pounds. New release hitch rated at 37 Kn. Approximately 8325 pounds.

Easier to tie and to remember how to build one.

Easier to deploy and tie off after partial deployment.

The RRH is simple to make using 2 steel caribiners and 33 feet of 8mm cord.

Prior to the development of the BC load release hitch and its subsequent improvement, the RRH, the Mariner release hitch was extensively used.

The Mariner release hitch is NO LONGER RECOGNIZED for use in rescue load situations due to the poor performance following a shock load.

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Tandem Prusik Belay with Radium Release Hitch

This gap between Prusiks should be no more than 4”

Tandem Prusik Belay with Radium Release Hitch

-- PMP is added to assist in raising

-- Load software first, then hardware