Behind the Scenes - Lonely...

11
476 SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec- dotes: Alexa Talbot, Alina Gruppe, Armin Wern- er, Austin Riley, Chad Perry, Chris Newton, Jack Nuttall, Jim Couture, Josh James, Laura Paola, Laurence Erhat, Mai Winstrup, Matt Albee, Nicola Cutts, Rhonda Petty, Steen Ballegaard AUTHOR THANKS Sandra Bao Thanks especially to my husband, Ben Greens- felder, who kept the house more or less in order (and the plants watered) while I was traipsing around Oregon. My co-authors have been patient and helpful with my many requests; a more experienced bunch I couldn’t have asked for. Much appreciation to the staff of all the information centers I visited, of whom I asked endless questions, to those many hoteliers I interviewed for local information and to the friendly people of Oregon who were always ready to help me out. Celeste Brash Thanks to my family for helping me research beaches and mountains some days, and getting on at home without me on others. To old friends I found scattered across Washington: the Irwin family, Kati Halmos Jones, Dan Jones, the For- ster family and Jackie Capalan-Auerbach. And to new friends I made: too many to mention! It was wonderful to work with Sandra Bao and Suki Gear, and from Brendan Sainsbury’s excel- lent base text. John Lee Heartfelt thanks to my Dad for bringing me to Vancouver from the UK for my first visit back in 1986. I’ll be over to see you soon, Dad! Brendan Sainsbury Thanks to all the untold bus drivers, tourist-info volunteers, restaurateurs, coffee baristas and indie punk rockers who helped me during my research. Special thanks to my wife, Liz, and seven-year-old son, Kieran, for their company on the road. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Class- ification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Downtown Metro Service map courtesy of King County Metro Transit, February 2013. Cover photograph: Mt Rainier and Eunice Lake, Philip Kramer/Getty Images. Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Transcript of Behind the Scenes - Lonely...

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476

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes: Alexa Talbot, Alina Gruppe, Armin Wern-er, Austin Riley, Chad Perry, Chris Newton, Jack Nuttall, Jim Couture, Josh James, Laura Paola, Laurence Erhat, Mai Winstrup, Matt Albee, Nicola Cutts, Rhonda Petty, Steen Ballegaard

AUTHOR THANKS Sandra BaoThanks especially to my husband, Ben Greens-felder, who kept the house more or less in order (and the plants watered) while I was traipsing around Oregon. My co-authors have been patient and helpful with my many requests; a more experienced bunch I couldn’t have asked for. Much appreciation to the staff of all the information centers I visited, of whom I asked endless questions, to those many hoteliers I interviewed for local information and to the friendly people of Oregon who were always ready to help me out.

Celeste BrashThanks to my family for helping me research beaches and mountains some days, and getting on at home without me on others. To old friends I found scattered across Washington: the Irwin

family, Kati Halmos Jones, Dan Jones, the For-ster family and Jackie Capalan-Auerbach. And to new friends I made: too many to mention! It was wonderful to work with Sandra Bao and Suki Gear, and from Brendan Sainsbury’s excel-lent base text.

John LeeHeartfelt thanks to my Dad for bringing me to Vancouver from the UK for my first visit back in 1986. I’ll be over to see you soon, Dad!

Brendan SainsburyThanks to all the untold bus drivers, tourist-info volunteers, restaurateurs, coffee baristas and indie punk rockers who helped me during my research. Special thanks to my wife, Liz, and seven-year-old son, Kieran, for their company on the road.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Class-ification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

Downtown Metro Service map courtesy of King County Metro Transit, February 2013.

Cover photograph: Mt Rainier and Eunice Lake, Philip Kramer/Getty Images.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES47 7

THIS BOOK This 6th edition of Lonely Planet’s Washington, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest guidebook was researched and written by Sandra Bao, Celeste Brash, John Lee and Brendan Sains-bury. Sandra, John and Brendan wrote the last edition, along with Becky Ohlsen. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following:

Commissioning Editors Suki Gear, Paula HardyCoordinating Editors Sarah Bailey, Anne MasonBook Designer Lauren EganManaging Editors Sasha Baskett, Angela TinsonRegional Senior Cartographer Alison LyallAssisting Editors Briohny Hooper, Kate Mathews, Anne Mulvaney, Charlotte Orr,

Luna Soo, Gabrielle Stefanos, Amanda WilliamsonAssisting Cartographers Jeff Cameron, Mick Garrett, Rachel Imeson, Jennifer JohnstonCover Research Naomi ParkerThanks to Anita Banh, Ryan Evans, Samantha Forge, Larissa Frost, Lorna Goodyer, Genesys India, Jouve India, Elizabeth Jones, Trent Paton, Dianne Schallmeiner, Gerard Walker, Juan Winata

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Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAberdeen 144-5accommodations 462-4, see

also individual locationsactivities 27-9, 42-52, see

also individual activitiesair travel 469, 470airports 469Alaska 470Alaskan Way Viaduct 22Alpine Lakes Wilderness

190-1altitude sickness 465Alvord Desert 368-9Anacortes 101-2animals 454-7, see also

individual animalsantelope 369, 454Anthony Lakes 359aquariums

Hatfield Marine Science Center 308

Oregon Coast Aquarium 308

Seaside Aquarium 298Seattle Aquarium 69Ucluelet Aquarium 418Vancouver Aquarium 375

architecture 446area codes 21art museums, see museumsarts 442-6, see also books,

films, literature, music, sculpture

Native American art 445Ashland 60, 325-31 Astoria 294-8 ATMs 20

BB&Bs 462-3Babyfoot Lake 334

Bainbridge Island 91Baker City 358-60Baker Lake 157Bandon 318-20beaches 23Beard, James 450beer 11, 24, 391, 447-8, see

also microbreweriesBellevue 92-3Bellingham 95, 97-100Benaroya Concert Hall

64, 66Bend 285-9bicycling 21, 45-7, 470-1

bike tours 45Leavenworth 188Portland 225-6

birds 457bird-watching 457Blake Island 91Bloomsday 208Blue Mountains 359boat travel 471

Seattle ferry routes 472Bodie 205Boeing factory 92Bonneville Dam 263, 266books 428, 443-4border crossings 469Bremerton 91-2Brentwood Bay 411Britt, Peter 332Broken Group Islands

Unit 417Brookings 323-4budget 21Bumbershoot 29, 13Burns 365-6bus travel 469, 473business hours 21Butchart Gardens 411, 24

CCabrillo, Juan Rodríguez 431 Campbell River 421-2Cannon Beach 300-2, 11

Cape Arago 317Cape Perpetua 311-12Cape Scott Provincial

Park 423Capilano Suspension Bridge

380car travel 21, 470, 473, see

also scenic drivesdriver’s licenses 473insurance 473rental 474road distance chart 475road trips 34-41

Cascade Lakes 290Cascade Locks 263Cascadia Marine Trail 113Cashmere 192Celebration of Light 28Celilo Falls 271cell phones 20Central Oregon 59, 275-

92, 277accommodations 275climate 275food 275highlights 277travel seasons 275

Central Washington 58, 186-97, 187

accommodations 185climate 185food 185highlights 187travel seasons 185

Centralia 127Champoeg 246Charleston 317-18Chelan 169-71Chemainus 413Chetco River 323Chihuly, Dale 22, 446Chihuly Garden & Glass

22, 71children, travel with 53-5,

350Children’s Museum 72Chuckanut Drive 101

cinema, see filmsclimate 20, 27-9 see also

individual regionsmountain climbing

Leavenworth 188Mt Baker 153Mt Rainier 175

Cobain, Kurt 145coffee 17, 448Columbia Center 72Columbia River Gorge 17,

59, 262-74, 455, 264-5, 17, 34

accommodations 262climate 262food 262highlights 264-5travel seasons 262

Columbia River Hwy 263Colville 211-12Colville National Forest

211-13Comox Valley 420Coombs 415Coos Bay 316-17Copalis 143Coquille River 318Corvallis 254-5Coupeville 105-6courses 452Cove Palisades State Park

286Cowichan Valley 412Craigdarroch Castle 405Crater Lake National Park

18, 338-41, 455, 339, 5, 18

cross-country skiing 48-9Methow 163Winthrop 164

Crystal Mountain 179culture 428-9, 439-41currency 20customs regulations 466cycling, see bicyclingCypress Island 119

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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479IN

DEX D-J

Ddams 460dangers, see safetyDeception Pass State Park

104-5Depoe Bay 307-8Desolation Peak 165Diablo Lake 159Diamond Lake 338disabilities, travelers with

468discount passes 464

museums 382Seattle 69

discover pass 133Discovery Park 75, 85diving 51dogs 468drinks 447-9, 467 see

also beer, coffee, winedriving, see car travelDuncan 412Dundee 247-8

EEagle Cap Excursion Train

353Eagle Cap Wilderness

356-7eagles 344Eastern Oregon 60, 346-

69, 348-9accommodations 346climate 346food 346highlights 348-9travel seasons 346

Eastern Washington 58, 185-213, 187

accommodations 185climate 185food 185highlights 187travel seasons 185

Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve 107-8

economy 428-9electricity 464elk 454-5Ellensburg 193-6Elwha River 133emergencies 21Enterprise 352-4environmental issues 454,

459-60Eugene 255-9events 27-9, see also

festivalsEverett 92

Evergreen Wings & Waves Waterpark 22

exchange rates 21

FFace Rock 319farmers markets 393ferry travel 471

Diablo Dam supply ferry 162

Seattle ferry routes 472festivals 27-9, 445

Art in the Pearl 228Bite of Oregon 228Britt Festival 332film festivals 444food festivals 451, 453Holiday Ale Festival 228music festivals 443Oregon Brewers Festival

228Oregon Shakespeare

Festival 329Portland International

Film Festival 228Portland Rose Festival

228Queer Pride Celebra-

tion 228Seattle International

Film Festival 87, 444 Vancouver Craft Beer

Week 382Vancouver International

Children’s Festival 382Vancouver International

Film Festival 383Vancouver International

Fringe Festival 383Vancouver International

Jazz Festival 383Vancouver International

Wine Festival 382Waterfront Blues Festival

228 films 428, 444-5

festivals 444Oregon Film Museum 294Portland International

Film Festival 228Seattle International

Film Festival 87Vancouver International

Film Festival 383First Thursday Art Walk 87fish 455fishing 52floods 455Floras Lake 320Florence 313-15fly-fishing 281

FlyOver Canada 22food 25, 450-3, 464, 24,

see also individual locations

food carts 12, 388, 12forests 457-8Forks 140-1Fort Klamath 341Fort Langley National

Historic Site 381Fossil 363Fremont Troll 75Friday Harbor 108fruit stands 193, 267Function Junction 399

GGaliano Island 426galleries, see museumsgardens 23, see also parks

& gardensgay travelers 239, 465geology 455Gibsons 400glaciers 455glassmaking 446Gold Beach 322-3Gorge Amphitheater 195Grand Coulee Dam 210-11Grand Coulee Dam Light

Show 22Grants Pass 333-4Granville Island 379Grays Harbor 143-6Great Bear Rainforest 458Green Lake 74grunge 442 Guemes Island 102

HHalfway 355, 358Hall Lake 316hang gliding 51Hart Mountain National

Antelope Refuge 369Haystack Rock 11health 465heatstroke 465Hells Canyon 357-8Hendrix, Jimi 71, 73, 442hiking 23, 42-3

Cascade Head 306Crater Lake National

Park 339-40Juan de Fuca Marine

Trail 416Manzanita 303Metolius Valley 282Mt Baker 153, 155

Mt Hood 276, 278Mt Rainier National

Park 175North Cascades National

Park 159Olympic National Park

137Oregon Coast 298Portland 224-5Steamboat 337Stehekin 168Sunshine Coast Trail 401Sweet Creek Falls 314Willamette Pass 291

Hiram M Chittenden Locks 75

historical reservesEbey’s Landing National

Historical Reserve 107-8

Fort Langley National Historic Site 381

history 430-8Chief Sealth 437gold rushes 435historic trails 433Native Americans 431, 437Oregon Trail 436

Hoh Rain Forest 14, 14holidays 466-7Hood River 267-70Hoodoo Mountain Resort

282Hoquiam 144-5horseback riding 51hostels 463hot springs 14, 26, 252, 14hotels 463-4HR MacMillan Space

Centre 379 hypothermia 465

IIlwaco 149-51immigration 441, 466Imnaha River 357internet resources 21,

63, 215itineraries 30-3

road trips 34-41

JJames Island 119Jacksonville 331-3Jimi Hendrix Statue 73John Day 360-2John Day Fossil Beds

National Monument 16, 362-4, 16

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INDEX J-N

Jones Island 119Jordan Valley 365Joseph 354-5

KKalaloch 141-2Kalmiopsis Wilderness 334kayaking 50Kerouac, Jack 165Kettle Falls 213Kirkland 93kiteboarding 52, 268Klamath Basin National

Wildlife Refuges 345Klamath Falls 343-5Klamath Mountains 334

LLa Conner 103-4La Grande 351-2La Push 141Lake Crescent 133Lake Mills 133Lake Quinault 136Lake Roosevelt National

Recreation Area 210-11Lake Shannon 157Lake Wenatchee 191Langley 107language 20laundry 463Leavenworth 186-90legal matters 466Lemolo Lake 338lesbian travelers 239, 465Leslie Gulch 365Lewis & Clark expedi-

tion 432Lime Kiln Point State Park

109, 11Lincoln City 305-7liquor laws 467literature 428, 443-4lodges 463Long Beach 147-9Long Beach Peninsula

146-50Long Beach Unit 416-17Lopez Island 118-120Lower Deschutes River

280-1Lower Skagit River 102-4Lummi Island 101-2Lynden 100

MMalheur National Wildlife

Refuge 367Manzanita 302-3Marys Peak 254Matia Island 119Maupin 280-1Mayne Island 426Mazama 162-3McKenzie Bridge 259-61McKenzie Pass 284McMinnville 248-50measures 463Medford 330-1Methow Valley 162-6Metolius River 282microbreweries 11, 24Mill Creek Wilderness 286mobile phones 20Moclips 143Molson 205money 20, 21

discount cards 464motorcycle travel 470, 473Mount Angel 253-4 Mt Adams 183-4Mt Bachelor 289Mt Baker 153-7Mt Constitution 114Mt Golden Hinde 421Mt Hood 16, 276-80, 16, 39Mt Jefferson 282Mt Mazama 340Mt Olympus 138Mt Rainier National Park

15, 172-9, 174, 15Mt St Helens 19, 179-83,

455, 181, 19Mt Thielsen 338Mt Vernon 102-3mountain biking 45-7

Bend 285-6Mt Hood 278

mountaineering 42-3Multnomah Falls 263, 17museums

Beaty Biodiversity Museum 380

Burke Museum 74Burrows House Museum

309Chihuly Garden & Glass

22, 71Clallam County Museum

130Columbia River Maritime

Museum 294Deschutes Historical

Museum 285

Douglas County Museum 336

EMP Museum 71Evergreen Aviation &

Space Museum 248Favell Museum of

Western Art & Indian Artifacts 343

Fort Dalles Museum 271Frye Art Museum 64Hands On Children’s

Museum 122Henry Art Gallery 74High Desert Museum

285Jefferson County

Historical Society Museum 127

Kerbyville Museum 335Klamath County

Museum 343Maryhill Museum of Art

22, 266Milepost 31 67-8Museum of Anthro-

pology 380Museum of Flight 76Museum of History &

Industry 72Museum of Natural &

Cultural History 256Museum of Vancouver

379Nanaimo Museum 413Nordic Heritage Museum

75North Lincoln Historical

Museum 306Northwest Museum of

Arts & Culture 205Oregon Film Museum

294Oregon Museum of

Science & Industry 223Pioneer Museum 304Portland Art Museum 216Royal BC Museum 401San Juan Historical

Museum 108-9Schneider Museum of

Art 326Seattle Art Museum 64Seattle Asian Art

Museum 73Seattle Pinball Museum

68SPARK Museum of

Electrical Invention 95State Capital Museum

122Tillamook Naval Air

Museum 304

UBC Museum of Anthropology 445

Vancouver Maritime Museum 379

Vancouver Police Museum 378

Warm Springs Museum 281

Whale Museum 108Whatcom Museum of

History & Art 95Whistler Museum 396Wing Luke Asian

Museum 68Yakima Valley Museum

196mushrooms 450music 13, 25, 28, 29, 442-6

festivals 443, 445grunge 442

mustangs 368

NNahcotta 146-7Nanaimo 413-15national parks 46, see

also parks & gardens, wilderness areas

Crater Lake National Park 18, 338-41, 455, 339, 5, 18

Mt Rainier National Park 15, 172-9, 174, 15

North Cascades National Park 153, 158-62, 160-1, 26

Olympic National Park 14, 131-9, 134

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve 416-17

Native American culture 18Neah Bay 139Nehalem 303-4Newberg 247-8Newberry National Volcanic

Monument 289-90Newport 308-10Nighthawk 205North Bend 316-17North Cascades National

Park 153, 158-62, 160-1, 26

North Pender Island 424-5North Umpqua River 337-8Northeastern Washington

203-13Northern Oregon coast

294-312, 296Northwestern Washington

57, 94-107accommodations 94

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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481IN

DEX N-S

Northwestern Washington continued

climate 94food 94highlights 96

OOak Harbor 105Ocean Shores 143-4Okanogan River Valley 211Olympia 122-5Olympic National Park 14,

131-9, 134Olympic Peninsula 57, 121,

126-42, 123accommodations 121climate 121food 121highlights 123travel seasons 121

Ontario 364-5opening hours 21orcas 15, 456, 15Orcas Island 114-118Oregon Cascades 59, 275-

92, 277accommodations 275climate 275food 275highlights 277travel seasons 275

Oregon Caves National Monument 334-6

Oregon City 246Oregon Coast 11, 59, 293-

324, 295accommodations 293children, travel with 301climate 293food 293highlights 295travel seasons 293

Oregon Coast Trail 298Oregon Dunes National

Recreation Area 315-16Oregon Pacific Coast

Passport 294Oregon Shakespeare

Festival 17, 27, 17outdoor activities 42-52Oysterville 146-7Ozette 139-40

PPacific banana slug 458Pacific Beach 143Pacific Maritime & Heritage

Center 22paragliding 51

parks & gardens, see also national parks, state parks & reserves, wilder-ness areas

Azalea Park 323Beacon Hill Park 405Bloedel Conservatory 380Butchart Gardens

411, 24 Cape Perpetua Scenic

Area 311-12Chihuly Garden & Glass

22, 71Crystal Springs Rhodo-

dendron Garden 223Deschutes River State

Recreation Area 274discover passes 133Gas Works Park 74Grandview Park 379Hoyt Arboretum 219International Rose Test

Garden 218-19Juan de Fuca Provincial

Park 416Kerry Park 72Klondike Gold Rush

National Historical Park 67

Occidental Park 68Ohme Gardens 191Olympic Sculpture

Park 69Pacific Rim National

Park Reserve 416-17Percival Landing Park 122Pioneer Square Park 66-7Prehistoric Gardens 321Priest Point Park 122Queen Elizabeth Park

380Riverfront Park 204San Juan Island National

Historical Park 109South Park Blocks 216Tom McCall Waterfront

Park 218UBC Botanical Garden

380VanDusen Botanical

Garden 380Victor Steinbrueck

Park 69Whatcom Falls Park 95Yakima Greenway 196Yaquina Head Outstand-

ing Natural Area 308Parksville 415-16Parliament Buildings

404, 19passports 466Patos Island 119

Pendleton 347-51Pendleton Round Up 29people 439-41Pike Place Market 8, 69, 8Pioneer Courthouse

Square 216planning, see also indi-

vidual regionsbasics 20-1 budgeting 21calendar of events 27-9children, travel with 53-5internet resources 21itineraries 30-3outdoor activities 42-52Pacific Northwest

regions 56-60repeat visitors 22road trips 34-41travel seasons 20, 27-9

plants 457-8politics 428-9population 429, 441Port Angeles 130Port Hardy 422Port Orford 320-2Port Townsend 126Portland 8, 58, 214-42, 217,

220-1, 224-5, 9accommodations 214,

228-31bicycling 215, 225-6climate 214courses 227drinking & nightlife

235-8entertainment 238-40festivals & events 228food 214, 231-5, 24food carts 231children, travel with 215highlights 217internet resources 215oddball attractions 227orientation 219shopping 240-1sights 216-23tourist information 241-2tours 228transportation 215travel seasons 214travel to/from/within

Portland 242Portland Building 218Posey Island 119postal services 463Powell River 400-1Prospect 342-3public holidays 466-7

public transportation 21Pullman 203-4

QQualicum 415-16

Rradio 463rafting 51-2

John Day River 361Leavenworth 188Lower Deschutes River

280-1Maupin 280-1Steamboat 337Wild Rogue Wilderness

342rainforests 457-8recreation passes 464recreational vehicles 463Redmond 93Reedsport 316religion 429renewable energy 459-60River Styx 335road trips 34-41, see also

scenic drivesRobert Bateman Centre 22rock climbing 50Rogue River 322, 341-3Roseburg 336Ross Lake 159RVs, see recreational

vehiclesRuby Beach 141-2

SSaanich Peninsula 411safety 465, 467Salem 250-3Salt Spring Island 424San Juan Islands 11, 57,

107-120, 96, 110-11accommodations 94food 94highlights 96

Saturna Island 425-6Sauvie Island 215scenery 25scenic drives 34-41, 212

Chuckanut Drive 101Elkhorn Drive Scenic

Byway 359Harts Pass 162Mt Baker Scenic Byway

153Sherman Pass 212Three Capes Scenic

Drive 305

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INDEX S

-W

sculpture 25sea lions 312Seabrook 143Seaside 298-300Seattle 56, 62-93, 65,

66-7, 92accommodations 62,

77-9activities 76climate 62drinking 85-7entertainment 87-9festivals & events 77ferry routes 472food 62, 79-85children, travel with 63highlights 65internet access 90internet resources 63medical services 90planning 63shopping 89-90sights 64-75sports 63tourist information 90tours 76-7transportation 63travel seasons 62travel to/from 90travel within 91walking tour 70

Seattle Great Wheel 22Seattle Public Library 64Seaview 147-9Sechelt 400Shady Cove 342Shaw Island 120shopping 25Sidney 411Sisters 283-4Ski to Sea Race 97skiing 26, 48-9

Crater Lake National Park 340

Hoodoo Moutain Resort 282

Leavenworth 188Mt Bachelor 289Mt Baker 155Mt Hood 276resorts 49Washington 156Whistler 396Willamette Pass 291

Smith Rock State Park 286Smith Tower 67smoking 463Snoqualmie Valley 171-2snowboarding 48-9, see

also skiingMt Baker Legendary

Banked Slalom 155snowshoeing 48-9Sooke 411-12South Pender Island 424-5Southeastern Washington

198-203Southern Gulf Islands

423-6Southern Oregon 60, 325-

45, 327accommodations 325climate 325food 325highlights 327travel seasons 325

Southern Oregon coast 313Space Needle 14, 71, 14spas 226-7Spokane 204-9, 206sport 440Starbucks 73state parks & reserves,

see also national parks, parks & gardens, wilderness areas

Alfred A Loeb State Park 324

Beacon Rock State Park 267

Cape Arago State Park 318Cape Blanco State

Park 320Cape Disappointment

State Park 149Cape Sebastian State

Park 322Columbia Hills State

Park 272Cove Palisades State

Park 286Deception Pass State

Park 104-5Fort Worden State

Park 127Harris Beach State

Park 324Humbug Mountain State

Park 321Lime Kiln Point State

Park 109, 11Moran State Park 114Port Orford Heads State

Park 320Riverside State Park 204

Samuel H Boardman State Park 324

Shore Acres State Park 317-18

Silver Falls State Park 254 Smith Rock State Park

286Spencer Spit State

Park 118Sunset Bay State Park 317Tou Velle State Park 330Yaquina Bay State Park

308-9Steamboat 337-8Steens Mountain 367-8Stehekin 166-9stormwatching 419Strathcona 421Strawberry Mountains 362Stuart Island 119Succor Creek 365Sucia Island 119Sumpter Valley Railroad

359Sunshine Coast 400-1surfing 51sustainability 459-60Suzzallo Library 74Sweet Creek Falls 314

TTable Rock 319Tacoma 172Teafarm 412Telegraph Cove 423telephone services 20The Dalles 271-4Three Sisters Wilderness

284-5tide pools 456Tillamook 304-5Timberline Lodge 280time 20, 463tipping 467Tofino 418-20Toledo 310Toppenish 197-210tourist information 468train travel 470, 475travel to/from Pacific

Northwest 469-70travel within Pacific

Northwest 21, 470-5trees 457-8trekking, see hiking Tri-Cities 199Tunnel Island 40Turtleback Mountain

Preserve 114

TV 444-5Twilight 142Twisp 166

UUcluelet 417-18UFO spotting 173Upper Skagit River Valley

157-8

Vvacations 466-7Vancouver (BC) 10, 60,

374-95, 372-3, 376, 384-5, 10

accommodations 383-7drinking & nightlife

390-1entertainment 391-2festivals & events 382food 387-90children, travel with 378highlights 372-3shopping 392-6sights 374-81tourist information 394tours 382transportation 371travel to/from Vancou-

ver 394travel within Vancouver

395Vancouver Island 18, 60,

401-23, 372-3highlights 372-3

Vancouver (WA) 150-1Vashon Island 91vegetarians 453Victoria 401-10, 404visas 20, 466volcanoes 455

Mt St Helens 19, 179-83, 455, 181, 19

WWaiting for the Interurban 75Waitsburg 202Waldron Island 119walking, see hikingwalking tours

First Thursday Art Walk 87

Seattle 70Walla Walla 199-203Wallowa Lake 356Wallowa Mountains 355Warm Springs Indian

Reservation 281Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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483IN

DEX W-Z

Washington Cascades 57, 152-84, 154

accommodations 152climate 152food 152highlights 154travel seasons 152

Washington Coast 57, 121, 142-51, 123

accommodations 121climate 121food 121highlights 123travel seasons 121

Washington State Capitol 122

waterfalls 272weather 20, 27-9 see

also individual regionsweights 463

Wenatchee 191-3West Coast Trail Unit 417Westport 145-6whales 456whale-watching 27, 47-8,

405-6Depoe Bay 307-8San Juan Islands 109

Whatmough Head 118Wheeler 303-4Whidbey Island 104-7Whistler 12, 60, 395-9,

372-3, 12White Pass 179white-water rafting 51-2Wild Rogue Wilderness 342wildlife 23, 454-8wilderness areas

Alpine Lakes Wilderness 190-1

Kalmiopsis Wilderness 334Mill Creek Wilderness 286Three Sisters Wilderness

284-5wildlife refuges & reserves 367, 369Willamette Pass 291-2Willamette River 291Willamette Valley 58, 243-

61, 244-5accommodations 243climate 243food 243highlights 244-5travel seasons 243

windsurfing 52, 268wine 10, 13, 24-5, 449

festivals 250wineries

Lake Chelan 170

Oregon 248-9Spokane 205-6Walla Walla 200-1Willamette Valley 256Yakima Valley 198

Winthrop 163-6

YYachats 310-11Yakima 196-7Yakima River Valley 193-8yurts 302

Zzip-lining 396zoos 74, 219

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Brendan Sainsbury Seattle An expat Brit from Hampshire, England, now living near Vancouver, Brendan is a Nirvana-loving, craft beer–appreciating, outdoors-embracing, art-admiring, bus-utilizing coffee addict who had no problem finding like-minded souls in the city of Seattle. He has been writing books for Lonely Planet for the last nine years and collecting notes on Seattle since 2009. He is the author of Lonely Planet’s current Seattle city guide and a contributing

author to the last two editions of this book.

Contributing WriterLucy Burningham wrote the Beervana & Beyond and Pacific Northwest Cuisine chapters. Lucy is a food, drink and travel writer based in Portland, OR.

Read more about Brendan at: lonelyplanet.com/members/brendansainsbury

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Sandra Bao Coordinating Author; Portland, The Willamette Valley & Wine Country, Columbia River Gorge, Central Oregon & the Oregon Cascades, Oregon Coast, Ashland & Southern Oregon, Eastern Oregon Sandra has lived in Buenos Aires, New York and California, but Oregon has become her final stop. Researching the Beaver State has been a highlight of Sandra’s 14-year-long Lonely Planet career. She’s come to appreciate the beauty of her home state, how much it has to offer and

how friendly people are in tiny towns in the middle of nowhere. Sandra lives in Portland with her husband, Ben Greensfelder. They’ve embraced the local green culture by installing rain barrels and solar panels, recycling nearly everything and running a community compost bin. When Sandra’s not traveling she’s obsessed with floating down the Clackamas River, growing the perfect tomato and trying to get her California friends to move up to her little paradise.

Celeste Brash Northwestern Washington & the San Juan Islands, Olympic Peninsula & Washing ton Coast, Washington Cascades, Central & Eastern Washington Locals have a hard time believing it, but the beauty of the Pacific Northwest is what coaxed Celeste back to the US after 15 years in Tahiti. She was thrilled to explore and imbibe the treasures of her new backyard for this book, hike snowy peaks, look for orcas and get in touch with her cowboy and Indian roots.

John Lee Vancouver, Whistler & Vancouver Island Originally from the UK, John moved to British Columbia to study at the University of Victoria in the 1990s. Eventually staying and moving to Vancouver, he started his travel-writing career in 1999. Since then, he’s been covering the region and beyond for Lonely Planet, plus magazines, newspapers and online outlets throughout the world. Winner of numerous writing awards, he’s very active on Twitter and a weekly columnist

for Canada’s Globe and Mail national newspaper.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse.’

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9836th edition – April 2014ISBN 978 1 74220 301 0© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 201410 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Read more about Celeste at: lonelyplanet.com/members/celestebrash

Read more about Sandra at: lonelyplanet.com/members/sandrabao

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’