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912912

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alberto Escribano, Alvin Hudec, Amandine Favier, Carlos Mendez, Christoph Ris, Connie Nakamura, Damping Wang, David Lee, Emma Dhesi, Eric Lauryn, Florence Petrie , Gertjan Martens, Harumi Murata, Jade Johnston, James Martin, John Osman, Kaomi Goetz , Kevin Bruce, Kirsten Kinkead, Lisa Nolan, Lucy & Stuart Stirland, Madoka Aoyama, Marie Armstrong, Marina Ramos, Marjolein Stegeman, Mark Chesney, Megumi Takamori, Michael Jahn, Miriam Vázquez, Niall Christie, Robin Kish, Sarah Dhesi, Tim Glover, Tristram Wyatt, Yasutaka Hori, Yuko Kobayashi

WRITER THANKSRebecca MilnerThank you to everyone on the Japan team. Laura, thank you for giving me so many opportunities. Simon and Craig, thank you for your advice. Thank you to Ross, Tomoko, Roberto, Nara-san, Kokubu-san, Watanabe-san, Will, Max, Jon, Andy and Shannon for your time, tips, conversation and company. Thank you to my husband and family for always encourag-ing me, even if it means long absences.

Ray BartlettNo-one deserves thanks more than my family, who dealt with me disappearing and supported every

aspect of this project. You’re amazing. Thanks also to my editor, Laura C, and other great folks at Lonely Planet. Shouts to James T, Mia Y, Adeline R, Toru-san, Deea, Jamie, Miki H, Memory-san, Noriko-san, Satoko-san, and countless others who went the extra mile to make sure I could represent this amazing part of Japan in the best possible way.

Andrew BenderSpecial thanks to Yohko Scott, Matsuura Kei, Rose Tanasugarn, Urakami Masahiro, Taniguchi Takehiro, Noro Randria, Colin Fukai, Hiraoka Hiroko, Hayashi Minako, Akagi Hideki, Hattori Katsuhiko, Brad Towle, Tabata Kumiko and every innkeeper, restaurant owner and tourist information office staffer who put up with my niggling questions. You are the essence of omotenashi.

Craig McLachlanA hearty thanks to all those who helped out on the road, but most of all, to my living kanji dictionary and exceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko. Gratitude also to Nezia, who let her husband and my buddy, Paul, come along for his Shikoku pilgrimage. And of course, thanks to Kōbō Daishi, who looked over us on our journey.

Kate Morgan A huge thank you to Destination Editor Laura, for giving me the opportunity to work on a dream gig and for all of your assistance throughout. A big arigatou gozaimasu to Kengo Nakao from the Kyoto Tourist Information office for all of your help, also to

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

913BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Keiji Shimizu for your assistance and Motoki Ito for some great local tips. And finally, to my partner, Trent, who I missed travelling with on this trip, thanks for all of your support.

Simon RichmondMy thanks to Hollie Mantle, Will Andrews, Yoshizawa Tomoko, Toshiko, Kenichi, Chris, Giles, Steve and Emiko, and my co-author Rebecca.

Tom SpurlingTo the yamasbushi who walk the mountains of Tohoku, for carrying on. To every fellow onsen bather, for the bum flash in the woods. To every ryokan operator, for sweeping those tatamis clean. To the shinkansen, for the green car. To the not-so-shinkansen, for winding me through gorgeous valleys. To the tachinomi, for letting me stand up and drink to this wonderful country. Oh, and to Mum, Lucy, Oliver, Poppy, Anna, Tez, Mia, Evie, Lex, Fred. And to Dad for not coming.

Phillip TangMassive thanks to Xavier 邹嘉 for sky-high views, rainbows, weddings, and luggage offloading. Thanks 郝成义for making Fukuyama and Miyajima come alive. Thank you Eric Mikuski, Ayako Noguchi and Nic Williamson for soul-enrichment, and Dale Stein for Okayama tips. I’m ever-grateful to the tourism-office angels, and to Laura Crawford for sharing Western Honshu again.

Benedict WalkerThis is for Aunty Bonnie, who gave me my first LP guide (Japan) when I was just a boy, and who waited until I returned from this research, for one last goodbye. Thanks to her oncologist, Dr. Sanjiv Gupta and to Mum, Collywolly and Meg, for your unfaltering care; to Michelle and Saralinda (my editors), for your patience and to Laura Crawford, whose kindness and trust allowed me to always be in the right place at the right time. Finally, thanks to my friends on the road: Grahame Roth, Kaori and Takashi Shimizu, Taku Yamada and Yuko Yasuoka. Love all round.

Wendy YanagiharaMany thanks to those who offered me insight, context and companionship, especially Tsuchiya Keiko, Yokoyama Ikuyo and Shin in Shimoda, Karina and Oscar in Toi, Ezaki Sachiyo and Junta in Amami, Endo Satoko in Nikkō, Utsumi Shino in Matsuzaki, Michael and Doug in Fuji-Yoshida, Toita Yoshiyuki and Yun Yongdu in Ishigaki and Ogata-san in Yokohama. Thank you Laura, Rebecca, and Imogen for being such delights to work with. Love to my incredible support system: Sanchita, Whitney, Victoria, Jason and Jasper.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Illustrations pp98-9 and pp396-7 by Michael Weldon.Cover photograph: Red-blossomed plum tree, Kyoto, Masanori Shimizu/500px ©

THIS BOOKThis 15th edition of Lonely Planet’s Japan guidebook was researched and written by Rebecca Milner, Ray Bartlett, Andrew Bender, Craig McLa-chlan, Kate Morgan, Simon Richmond, Tom Spurling, Phillip Tang, Benedict Walker and Wendy Yanagihara. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Laura CrawfordProduct Editor Sandie KestellSenior Cartographer Diana von HoldtAssisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Rachel Imeson, Gabe Lindquist, Alison LyallBook Designer Gwen CotterAssisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Michelle Bennett, Pete Cruttenden, Gabrielle Innes, Helen Koehne, Kristin

Odijk, Monique Perrin, Gabrielle Stefanos, Saralinda Turner, Maja Vatrić, Simon WilliamsonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Naoko Akamatsu, Heather Champion, Kate Chapman, Katie Connelly, Joel Cotterell, Victoria Harrison, Liz Heynes, Indra Kilfoyle, Genna Patterson, Kathryn Rowan, Jessica Ryan, Dianne Schallmeiner, Angela Tinson

914

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

88 Temples of Shikoku 654, 650-1

Temple 1 649Temple 2 649Temple 3 649Temple 4 649Temple 5 649Temple 21 663Temple 38 669Temple 45 681Temple 51 671Temple 66 694Temple 73 691Temple 74 691Temple 84 689-90Temple 85 689Temple 88 687Temple 41 683Temple 42 683

2020 Summer Olympics 28, 816, 871

AAbashiri 621-2accommodation 26, 866-9,

880-2, see also individual locations

costs 59, 881etiquette 867language 905love hotels 137, 374manga kissa 137minshuku 868ryokan 12, 334, 866-8, 13shukubō 868-9

activities 32-5, see also individual activities, individual locations

addresses 897Aikawa 558-9aikido 870-1Ainokura 248

Ainu culture 633Ainu museums

Ainu Culture Promotion Centre 595, 597

Ainu Folklore Museum 629Hakodate Museum of

Northern Peoples 637Hokkaidō Ainu Center 580Kawamura Kaneto Ainu

Memorial Hall 602Museum of Ainu Folklore

631Ainu people 835-6Ainu villages 629air travel 891-2Aizu-Wakamatsu 566-8Aka-jima 794-6Akan National Park 627-34,

628-9, 42-3Akanko Onsen 628-31Akita 537-40, 540Akita Prefecture 537-45, 538Akiyoshi-dai Quasi-National

Park 488Amami Islands 778-85Amami-Ōshima 778-81, 780Ameya-yokochō 150, 30amusement parks

Fuji-Q Highland 163Hanayashiki 113Tokyo Disney Resort 113Tokyo Dome City

Attractions 113Tokyo Joypolis 113Universal Studios Japan

370-1Yokohama Cosmoworld

193Anan Coast 644-56animals 875-6, see also

individual speciesanime 861-2

festivals 115Ghibli Museum 110-11Mandarake Complex

149, 151Miyazaki, Hayao 52, 861

Anraku-ji 290Aomori 526-9, 528Aomori Prefecture 525-37,

527Aoni Onsen 532Aoshima 766-7aquariums 550-1, 793,

369, 760Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

323-4archaeological sites &

museumsDazaifu Exhibition Hall 708Hida Folk Archaeological

Museum 237kofun 458, 761, 822Nara Prefecture Kashihara

Archaeological Museum 405-6

Saitobaru Archaeological Museum 761

Saitobaru Burial Mounds Park 761

Sannai Maruyama Site 526Uenohara Jōmon-no-

Mori 761architects 863-5

Andō Tadao 83, 379, 461, 865

Ban Shigeru 865 Itō Toyō 865Kikutake Kiyonori 864 Kurokawa Kishō 864 Maki Fumihiko 864 Pei, IM 428 Ryue Nishizawa 865 Sejima Kazuyo 865 Shinohara Kazuo 864 Tange Kenzō 864 Wright, Frank Lloyd 864

architecture 863-5, 14, 30, see also architects, historic buildings, individual buildings

gasshō-zukuri 236, 864Meiji-era 702Meiji-mura 864modern 14, 30

museums 111, 237, 269, 405-6, 708, 761

Naoshima 17Osaka 359, 362, 30Taishō-era 702Tokyo 14, 30, 91, 14

area codes 25Arita 713-14art galleries & art museums,

see also craft & folk art museums, design museums

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art 252

3331 Arts Chiyoda 97Abeno Harukas Art

Museum 367Adachi Museum of Art 476Akita Museum of Art 537Anno Art Museum 490Aomori Museum of

Art 526Asakura Museum of

Sculpture, Taitō 102BankART Studio NYK 195Benesse House Museum

461Chibajo Annexe 731Chichū Art Museum 461Complex 665 83Echigo-Tsumari Art Field

563Fukuoka Asian Art

Museum 699Gallery Koyanagi 80Ginza Graphic Gallery 80Gokayama Washi-no-

sato 248Hagi Uragami Museum

494Hakone Museum of

Art 172Hakone Open-Air Museum

172Hayashibara Museum of

Art 455Hida Takayama Museum

of Art 236

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

915IN

DEX A

-BHiroshima City Museum

of Contemporary Art 440

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum 440

Hokkaidō Museum of Modern Art 580

Hokusai Museum 286Imaemon Gallery 713Ishikawa Wajima Urushi

Art Museum 261Japan Ukiyo-e Museum

269Kamakura National

Treasure Museum 189Kubota Itchiku Art

Museum 164Kuroda Memorial Hall 101Kutaniyaki Art Museum

262Kyoto Municipal Museum

of Art 320Kyoto National Museum

311-12Lee Ufan Museum 461Matsumoto City Museum

of Art 267-8METoA Ginza 80MOA Museum of Art 175Mori Art Museum 81, 83Nagoya/Boston Museum

of Fine Arts 219Naha City Traditional Arts

& Crafts Center 787Naoshima 17, 460, 17Narukawa Art Museum

174National Art Center

Tokyo 84, 4National Museum of

Modern Art 320National Museum of

Modern Art (MOMAT) 77-8

Neiraku Art Museum 394Nezu Museum 92Nikkō Tōshō-gū Museum

of Art 201Noritake Gallery 218Ōhara Museum of Art 469Okada Museum of Art 171Otsuka Museum of Art

649, 652Place M 95Pola Museum of Art 173RIAS Ark Art Gallery 523Rokuzan Bijutsukan 273Sado Hanga-mura

Museum 558SCAI the Bathhouse 104Shimada Museum of

Art 731

Shimane Prefectural Art Museum 474-5

Shiseido Gallery 80Shōji Ueda Museum of

Photography 481Shoko Kanazawa

Museum 184Sumida Hokusai

Museum 105Suntory Museum of

Art 83-4Taikan Bonsai Museum

286Takamatsu City Museum

of Art 686Teshima Yokoo House 465Tokugawa Art Museum

218Tokushima Modern Art

Museum 645Tokyo Gallery + BTAP 80Tokyo Metropolitan Teien

Art Museum 86-7TOP Museum 85Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial

Museum of Art 91-2’Umi’ Museum of

Contemporary Art 291Watari Museum of

Contemporary Art 92Yamatane Museum of

Art 85Yokohama Museum of

Art 193artists

Asakura Fumio 102 Hokusai 854Kusama Yayoi 268 Miyazaki Hayao 52, 861Murakami Takashi 857 Ogiwara Rokuzan 273Ōtake Shinrō 65

arts 17, 854-62, 17, see also books, dance, kabuki, music, nō, pottery, public art, puppet theatre, theatre

festivals 115-16, 857Asahidake Onsen 610-11Asahikawa 602-4Ashizuri-misaki 668-9Aso-san 734-7, 736Asuka 406-7Atami 175ATMs 885Atomic Bomb Dome 435,

439atomic bombs

Hiroshima 435, 439, 440Nagasaki 714-15, 718

Atsuta-jingū 220

authorsIhara Saikaku 860Kanehara Hitomi 860-1Matsuo Bashō 548Murakami Haruki 860-1Murakami Ryū 860-1Natsume Sōseki 65Wataya Risa 860-1Yanagita Kunio 519Yoshimoto Banana 860-1

autumn-foliage viewing 877Himeji 390Kyoto 303, 318, 323Osaka 364-5

awamori 792Awa-odori Matsuri 647Azumino 273-5

Bbaggage forwarding 28, 893bamboo 323-4, 739, 741Bandai Plateau 568-70, 569bargaining 27baseball 870bathhouses 65bathrooms 888beaches 31, 20

Amami-no-Sato 779Aragusuku-kaigan 799Aze Prince Beach 782Boraga Beach 799Eef Beach 797Goishi Kaigan 523Hate-no-hama 797Hōraine-kaigan 211Hoshisuna-no-hama 809Ida-no-hama 809Irita 182Issō-kaisuiyokujō 773Kabira-wan 803Kaiji-hama 811-12Katsura-hama 663Kondoi Beach 812Mushiroze 782Nagahama-kaigan 777Nagamahama 798Nagata Inaka-hama 773Nakanoshima Beach 802Neshiko Beach 712Nishihama 812Oganeku-kaigan 784Ōhama 182Ōhama-kaihin-kōen 779Ōkinohama 668Sakibaru-kaigan 779Senjō-jiki 421Shinri-hama 797Shirara-hama 421

Sunayama Beach 798Sunset Beach 803Takanazaki 812-13Takezaki-kaigan 777Tatado 182Tatami-ishi 797Terasaki-kaigan 784Toguchi-no-hama 802Tomori-kaigan 779Tsuki-ga-hama 809Wai Beach 211Yonaha-Maehama 798Yonehara Beach 803Yoshino-kaigan 799

bears 608, 626, 875beer 581, 850-2

breweries 581-2festivals 197museums 85, 579

Benesse Art Site 460-2Beppu 739-46, 740, 742Bessho Onsen 289-90bicycle travel, see cyclingBiei 604-5, 606-7birdwatching 187, 211, 265Bise 794Bizen 460Blakiston line 609boat cruises & boat tours

Abashari 621Akan-ko 630Geibi Gorge 517-18Iriomote-jima 809-10Matsue 476Matsushima 510-11Otaru 593Shimokita Peninsula 536Shiretoko National

Park 627Tokushima 647Towada-ko 533

boat travel 468, 500, 894, see also boat cruises & boat tours

bonsai 286books 441, 816, 839, 854,

857, 859-61food 841, 848history 819, 820, 833novels 441, 873

bovine sumo 683, 781breweries

beer 581-2miso 540sake 164-5, 385, 444soy sauce 540

Buddhism 819, 820Buddhist statues

Byakui Dai-kannon 292

916

IND

EX B-C

Daibutsu (Nara) 15, 396-7 15, 396, 397

Kunisaki Peninsula 747Nehan-zō 727Shōhō-ji (Gifu Great

Buddha) 228Buddhist temples, see

also individual temples, 88 Temples of Shikoku, Kyoto temples

Bessho Onsen 289-90Chūzen-ji Onsen 207Daigo-ji 314, 338Dazaifu 708Fukui 264Fukuoka 699Gifu 228Hagi 494-5Hida-Furukawa 241Hiraizumi 517Hirosaki 529Hōryū-ji 403Kaga Onsen 262-3Kamakura 187-90Kanazawa 254Kiyomizu-dera 311, 313,

340Kōya-san 14, 410-12Kumamoto 731Matsushima 510Miyajima 447Nagahama 428Nagano 280Nagasaki 718, 719Nagoya 219Nara 394-5Nikkō 203Noto Peninsula 259, 260Oku-no-in 14, 410, 15Onomichi 450Osaka 366-7Ōtsu 426Senso-ji 104-5, 127Shikotsu-Tōya National

Park 597Shimoda 178Shimokita Peninsula 536Shimonoseki 498Shuzen-ji Onsen 184Takao-san 199Takayama 236Tokyo 80, 84, 87, 102,

104-5, 107Tomo-no-ura 454Tōshōdai-ji 405

Toyama 265Yakushi-ji 403Yamadera 547-8Yamaguchi 488Yamato Plain 406Yoshino 407

budget travel 59-60budgeting 881, 883bullfighting 683, 782bunraku, see puppet

theatreburakumin 836bus travel 28, 894-5, 898business hours 25, 886butō 859Byōdō-in 320

Ccalligraphy 855camping 880canyoning 683Cape Toi 767capsule hotels 59, 881car travel 25, 895-7

car hire 896-7driving licences 895fuel 896road rules 897

castles 19, 29-30, 19Echizen-Ōno-jō 265Fukuoka-jō 699Gifu-jō 228Hikone Castle 426, 428Himeji-jō 19, 389-90Hirado-jō 712Hirosaki-jō 529Hiroshima-jō 439Inno-shima 452Inuyama-jō 225Karatsu-jō 709Kōchi-jō 663Kumamoto-jō 731Marugame-jō 690Matsue-jō 474Matsumoto-jō 19, 267Matsuyama-jō 671Nagoya-jō 218Nijō-jō 305-6Obi-jō 767Okayama-jō 455Osaka-jō 364-5, 2Ōzu-jō 682Sendai Castle Ruins 506Shimabara-jō 727Shuri-jō 789, 44Takamatsu-jō 686Takayama-jō 237Tsuruga-jō 567

Tsuwano-jō 490Uwajima-jō 683

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

cavesAkiyoshi-dō 488Ama-no-Yasukawara 748Fugaku Fuketsu 166Genbudō 431Narusawa Hyōketsu 166Shōryū-dō 783Tōri-ike 802

cell phones 24, 887cemeteries

Foreigners’ Cemetery 638Oku-no-in 14, 410, 15Yanaka-reien 102, 104

central Hokkaidō 588-602central Honshū 66, 212-96,

214-15climate 212food 56highlights 214hiking 61travel to/within 213

cherry-blossom viewing 12, 33, 875, 13

Hase-dera 406Hikone 426Kyoto 308, 311Maruyama-kōen 12Tokyo 90, 95, 104, 115Yoshino 407

Chichibu 198-200Chichi-jima 209-10Chiiori 658children, travel with 52-3,

85, see also individual regions

Chinatown (Yokohama) 195-6

Chion-in 314Chiran 758Chiringashima 759Chōkoku-no-Mori 172Christians 490, 711, 826churches & cathedrals

Chapel of St Maria 490Orthodox Church 638Ōura Catholic Church 719St Francis Xavier

Memorial Church 488Tsuwano Catholic

Church 490Urakami Cathedral 715

Chūzen-ji Onsen 206-7cinema, see anime, filmsclimate 24, 32-5, 24, see

also individual regions

climbing, see also hikingKamikōchi 276Minakami Onsen-kyo 294Mt Fuji 159-62Yōtei-zan 598

coffee 851-2Confucian shrines 721consulates 882-3cormorant fishing 227,

228, 229cosplay 220costs

accommodation 59, 881budget travel 59-60food 883train travel 898-903

coursescooking 114-15, 330-1,

848crafts 115drumming 560ikebana 115meditation 190pottery 496, 545

craft & folk art museumsAkarenga-kan Museum

537Beppu Traditional

Bamboo Crafts Centre 739, 741

Craft Centre & Museum 218

Crafts Gallery 78Fureai-Kan Kyoto

Museum of Traditional Crafts 320

Gasshō-zukuri Folk Village 246

Hakata Machiya Furusato-kan 699

Hida Folk Village 236Hirayu Folk Museum 243Imari City Ceramic

Merchant’s Museum 710-11

Ino Japanese Paper Museum 663

Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Products & Crafts 252-3

Japan Folk Crafts Museum 89

Kakunodate Cherry-BarkCraft Center 541Kihōin Shūshūkan 811Kumamoto Prefectural

Traditional Crafts Centre 731

Kurashiki Museum of Folk-craft 470

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

917IN

DEX C

-F Kusakabe Folk Crafts

Museum 237Kyūshū Ceramic

Museum 713Miyako Crafts Workshop

Village 799Museum of Oriental

Ceramics 363-4Myōzen-ji Folk Museum

246Naha City Traditional Arts

& Crafts Center 787Ogi Folk Museum 560Sanuki Folkcraft Museum

685Taketomi Mingei-kan 811Togakushi Folk Museum

& Ninja House 285Tōno Folk Village 519-20Tsuboya Pottery

Museum 787Uchiwa-no-Minato

Museum 690-1Yamaguchi FurusatoHeritage Centre 488

crafts 257, 799, 854-6, see also individual crafts

cranes 635credit cards 885currency 24, 885customs regulations 882cycling 242, 893-4

Kibi Plain 458Setouchi Shimanami

Kaidō 451Shimanami Kaidō 672Tōno 521

DDaibutsu (Nara) 15, 396-7

15, 396, 397Daigo-ji 314, 338Daihonzan Eihei-ji 264Daisen 481-2Daisetsu Kōgen Onsen

612-13Daisetsuzan National Park

609-13, 606-7Daitoku-ji 308-9Daitsū-ji 428dance 749, 857-8

Bizan 645butō 859geisha 21, 351Kyoto 351

dangers, see safetyDazaifu 707-8deer 393-4, 794design museums

21_21 Design Sight 83

d47 Museum 89Design Festa 91International Design

Centre Nagoya 219Dewa Sanzen 551-3disabilities, travellers with

888-9diving

Iriomote-jima 809Ishigaki-jima 803Miyako-jima 799Okinawa 793Southwest Islands 779Yonaguni-jima 813-14

Dōgashima 183Dōgo 480Dōzen Islands 480drinks 849-52

awamori 792coffee 851-2language 840-52, 907sake 851shōchū 755, 851-2tea 56, 851-2, 853tea ceremonies 56, 331-

2, 856, 56driving, see car travel

Eearthquakes 874

2016 Kumamoto Earthquake 734

Great East Japan Earthquake 524, 816, 878

Great Kantō Earthquake 192-3

eastern Hokkaidō 621-36Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen 563-4Echizen-Ōno 265economics 816-17Ehime Prefecture 669-85Eikan-dō 318electricity 882embassies 882-3emergencies 25Engaku-ji 187Enoshima 191Enryaku-ji 327environment 874-8environmental issues 482,

486, 702, 877-8Esashi 640etiquette 27

accommodation 867food 841geisha 873onsen 64shrines 838

events, see festivals & events

exchange rates 25

Fferry travel 468, 500, 894festivals & events 22,

32-5, 23Akita 537, 539anime 115Aomori 526Asahikawa Winter

Matsuri 602-3Dewa Sanzan 552Earth Celebration 561Fukuoka 702-3Fuji-Yoshida 163Hida-Furukawa 242Himeji 390Hirado 712Hirosaki 529-30Hiroshima 441Inuyama 227Ise-Shima 424Izumo 484Kagoshima 751Kakunodate 541Kamakura 190Kanazawa 254Karatsu 709Kōbe 386Kōchi 665Kōya-san 413Kumamoto 731Kyoto 332, 23Matsue 476Matsumoto 269-70Miyajima 448Miyazaki 764Naeba 564Nagano 280Nagasaki 721Nagoya 220Naoshima 461Nara 399Nikkō 204northern Honshū

(Tōhoku) 541Noto Peninsula 261Nozawa Onsen 287-8Okayama 455Osaka 371-2Ōtsu 426Sado-ga-shima 557Sanriku Kaigan 522Sapporo 582, 676Sendai 506Shimonoseki 498-9

Shōdo-shima 468Takayama 237-8Tokushima 647Tokyo 115-16Tsumago 231Tsuwano 492Yamagata 545Yokohama 197

films 445, 816, 861, 872, 878

fishing 813, see also cormorant fishing

food 12, 54-8, 60, 840-53, 883, 12, 54, 57, 58, see also individual foods, individual regions

cookery courses 114-15, 330-1, 848

costs 60, 883etiquette 841izakaya 842Kagoshima cuisine 751kaiseki 848Kōbe beef 387, 846language 58, 905-7Miyazaki cuisine 765okonomiyaki 57sashimi 54Shinshū cuisine 283shokudō 841-2soy sauce 409, 466specialities 843-8sushi 843-4, 12vegan 848-9vegetarian 848-9yakitori 842-3, 58

food markets 31, 846Hakodate 636-7Kanazawa 249Kyoto 304-5, 321, 354Naha 787Takayama 241Tokyo 79, 80, 94-5, 109,

130, 30Tsukiji Market 79-80

Fuji Five Lakes 158-67Fuji Sengen-jinja 163Fuji-Yoshida 163-4Fukui 263-4Fukuji Onsen 244Fukuoka 698-707, 700

accommodation 703-4climate 695drinking 705entertainment 705festivals & events 702-3food 704-5internet access 706medical services 706

918

IND

EX F-H

nightlife 705shopping 705-6sights 699-702tourist information 706travel to/within 706-7

Fukushima nuclear incident 566, 878

Fukushima Prefecture 566-70

Furano 605-9, 606-7, 677Fushimi Inari-Taisha 303-4,

340

GGaran 411gardens 29, 865, see also

parksCanadian Embassy

Stone Garden 84Fujita Memorial Garden

529Fukushū-en 787Garyū-sansō 682Genkyū-en 428Glover Garden 719, 722Gyokusen Inmaru

Garden 252Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien

80Hokkaidō University

Botanical Gardens 580Imperial Palace East

Garden 75, 77Isui-en 394Kenroku-en 252Kiyosumi-teien 107Koishikawa Kōrakuen 95Kōkō-en 390Kōraku-en 455Kyoto Botanical Gardens

308Meiji-jingū Gyoen 89, 139Mori-no Beer Garden 139Mōtsū-ji 517Noritake Garden 218Rikugi-en 104Sankei-en 196Sekirei 139Sengan-en (Iso-teien) 750Shikina-en 787Shukkei-en 439-40Suizenji-jōjuen 731Tokugawa-en 218Yoshiki-en 394Yūshien Garden 475-6

gasshō-zukuri 236, 864gay travellers 136, 883geisha 21, 872-3, 21, 338

costumes 873dances 351entertainment 873etiquette 873history 872

geography 874-8Gifu 227-9Ginkaku-ji 319Ginzan Onsen 550Gion 315Gion Matsuri 33, 23Go-Daigo 823go-karting 112Gokayama 245-8Gokayama district 247-8Gōra 172Great Buddha, see Daibatsu

(Nara)green turtles 211Gujō-Hachiman 230Gunma Prefecture 292-6

HHachijō-jima 186-7Hachikō Statue 87Hagi 493-7, 494Haha-jima 210-11haiku 859-60Hakkōda-san 534-5Hakodate 636-40, 637Hakone 167-74, 168Hakone-machi 174Hakone-Yumoto 170-1Hakuba 277-80Hakui 259Hakusan National Park 253hanami, see cherry-

blossom viewing, plum-blossom viewing

Hase-dera 189, 406Hashima 726Hateruma-jima 812-13Hattōji 459health 883-4Hearn, Lafcadio 478Hedo-misaki 794Heian-jingū 320-1hells 729, 741, 745Hida Region 234-48Hida-Furukawa 241-2Higashi Hongan-ji 299Higashi-Iya 659-60hiking 18, 61-2, 233, 18, see

also climbingAsahi-dake 610

Azumino 274Bandai Plateau 568Daisetsuzan National

Park 610Haha-jima 211Hakkōda-san 534Hakuba 277-8Hirado 712Iriomote-jima 809Ishizuchi-san 680Jōgasaki-kaigan 177Kamakura 190Kamikōchi 276Kirishima-yaku National

Park 761Kuro-dake 611Kyūshū 708, 739Magome-Tsumago Hike

232Mashū-dake 632Me-Akan-dake 629-30Miyajima 447Miyama-chō 430Mt Fuji 159-62Naruko Onsen 513Niseko 590Northern Honshū

(Tōhoku) 553O-Akan-dake 630Oku-Tama 199Panorama-dai 167Rebun-tō 617Rishiri-tō 619-20Shari-dake 623Shikoku 689Sōun-zan 173Takao-san 198Tarumae-zan 600Tazawa-ko 542-3Tokachi-dake 613Towada-ko 533Unzen 729Yakushima 773-4Yōtei-zan 598Yumoto Onsen 207

Hikone 426-8Himeji 389-91, 389Himi 259Himiko 819Hirado 711-13Hiraizumi 517-19, 518Hirara 798-801, 800Hirayu Onsen 243-4Hirosaki 529-32, 530Hiroshima 16, 67, 434-45,

436-7, 438, 37accommodation 441-2climate 434drinking 443-4

entertainment 444festivals & events 441food 442-3highlights 436-7hiking 62internet access 444itineraries 443nightlife 443-4shopping 444tourist information 445tours 441travel to/within 445

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum 16, 439, 16

historic buildingsBuke Yashiki Samurai

Residence 474Gessōtei 777Kikuya Residence 493Kita-ke 259Kumagai Residence 485Ōhashi House 469Ōta Residence 453-4Shiroyama Elementary

School 717Tōkaikan 176Wada-ke 246Zuihō-den Mausoleum

506historic sites 824

Dejima 717-18Dutch Slopes 719, 721Iimori-yama 567Yōkaichi Historic District

680history 818-34, see also

individual regionsancient Japan 818-19atomic bombings 435,

439, 440, 714-15, 718courtiers 820-1historical periods 822Hōjō shogunate 821-4Imperialist Japan 832-4modernisation 830Mongol invasions 823mysticism 819reunification 824-6Southwest Islands 770Tokugawa rule 827-8Westernisation 831WWII 833-4Yamato Clan 819-20

hitching 897Hiwasa 653Hokkaidō 20, 42-3, 68,

571-640, 42, 572-3, 20, 42-3

accommodation 571Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

919IN

DEX H

-Kclimate 571, 574driving 576food 57, 571highlights 572-3hiking 62history 574itineraries 43, 42national parks 574-5safety 575travel to/within 575-7

Hokuriku Region 248-66holidays 886Hōnen-in 319Hongū 417-18Honmyō-ji 731Hōryū-ji 403hot springs, see hells, onsen

IIbusuki 758-60, 474ikebana 824, 856-7Ikema-jima 798-9Ikuchi-jima 452-3Ikumi 655Imari 710-11immigration 889-90Imperial Palace 75, 77Inno-Shima 452insurance 884internet access 884internet resources 48, 61,

68, 844, 849, 850Inujima 464Inuyama 225-7, 226Iō-jima 777Iriomote-jima 20, 808-11Ise-Shima 422-6, 423Ishigaki-jima 20, 802-8,

807, 20Ishinomaki 511-13Ishizuchi-san 679-80islands, see individual

islandsitineraries 36-45, 36, 38,

41, 42, 45, 46-7, see also individual regions

Itō 175-8Itsukushima-jinja 22,

446-7, 677Iwakuni 449Iwami Ginzan 485-6Iwate Prefecture 514-22,

515Iya Valley 656-8, 657Izu Islands 185-7Izumo 484-5Izumo Taisha 484, 474Izu Peninsula 175-84, 176

JJakkō-in 328Japan Alps 66, 212-96,

214-15food 56highlights 214hiking 61

Japan Rail Pass 901Japanese language, see

languageJapanese people 835-9Jingo-ji 329-30Jōzankei 595-8judo 871

Kkabuki 858

Kyoto 350Shōdo-shima 468Tokyo 143Uchiko 680

Kaeda Gorge 766Kaga Onsen 262-3Kagawa Prefecture 685-94Kagoshima 750-6, 752-3kaiseki 848Kakunodate 540-2Kamaishi 525Kamakura 187-92, 188Kamigamo-jinja 309-10kamikaze 706, 758, 823Kamikōchi 22, 275-7, 22Kanaya Ryokan 178Kanazawa 19, 249-58,

250-1, 19accommodation 254-5drinking 256entertainment 256festivals & events 254food 255-6history 249nightlife 256shopping 256-7sights 249, 252-4travel to/within 258

Kannawa Hells Area 741-6, 745

Kanonji 694Kansai 67, 360-1

climate 358food 56highlights 360-1hiking 62travel passes 381travel seasons 358

karaoke 850karate 871Karatsu 708-10

Karuizawa 290-2Kasaoka Islands 472-3Kashihara 405-6Kashihara-jingū 405Kasuga Taisha 397, 38-9Kawaguchi-ko 156, 164-6Kawayu Onsen 631-4kayaking 209, 447, 810Kenchō-ji 187-8kendō 871Kenzō, Tange 16Kerama Islands 20, 794-7Kesennuma 523Kibune 328-9, 347, 329Kii Peninsula 408-22, 410Kii-Katsuura 419-20kimono 98, 873Kinkaku-ji 321-2, 10-11Kinosaki Onsen 431-3Kirishima-yaku National

Park 760-2Kisami 182Kiso Valley Nakasendō

230-4Kitakata 570Kitakyūshū 702Kitamuki Kannon 289-90Kitano Tenman-gū 321Kiyōmizu Kannon-dō 102Kiyomizu-dera 311, 313,

340Kōbe 382-9, 384Kōbe beef 387, 846Koboke 660-1Kōchi 662-7, 664Kōchi Prefecture 662-9Kōdai-ji 313Kōfuku-ji 394, 718Koganechō 196Kō-jima 767Konpira-san 691-3Korea 500Kōri-jima 793-4Kotohira 691-4, 692Kowakidani 171-2Kōya-san 14, 409-15,

412, 15Kublai Khan 823Kumamoto 730-4, 732Kumano Kodō 415-16, 18Kume-jima 797-8Kunisaki Peninsula 747Kurama 328, 329Kurama-dera 328-9Kurashiki 469-72, 470Kuril Islands 622Kurobe Gorge Railway 266Kurokawa Onsen 737-8

Kusatsu Onsen 295-6Kushimoto 420Kushiro 634-5Kushiro-shitsugen National

Park 635-6, 43Kyoto 67, 297-357, 298,

300-1, 304, 306, 308, 312, 316-17, 322, 324, 2, 10, 338, 341

accommodation 332-7activities 330-2climate 297courses 330-1drinking 348-50entertainment 350-2festivals & events

332, 23food 56, 337-48highlights 298hiking 62history 299internet resources 355itineraries 39, 303, 38medical services 354nightlife 348-50orientation 354shopping 352-4sights 299-330tourist information 354-5travel agencies 355travel seasons 297travel to/within 355-6travel within 356-7walking tours 350

Kyoto Imperial Palace 306-8, 310

Kyoto Station 299, 338, 341

Kyoto templesChion-in 314Daitoku-ji 308-9Eikan-dō 318Ginkaku-ji 318Giō-ji 325Higashi Hongan-ji 299Hōnen-in 318Jakk-in 328Jōjakkō-ji 325Kennin-ji 315Kinkaku-ji 321, 322Kiyomizu-dera 311, 313,

340, 340Kōdai-ji 313Konchi-in 318Kurama-dera 329-30Kzan-ji 330Myōshin-ji 323Nanzen-ji 315Ninna-ji 322-3

920

IND

EX K-M

Nishi Hongan-ji 299, 302Nison-in 325Ryōan-ji 322Saihō-ji 325-6Saimy-ji 330Sanjūsangen-dō Temple

310Sanzen-in 327-8Shōren-in 314Tenryū-ji 323Tō-ji 302Tōfuku-ji 302-3

Kyūshū 44-5, 68, 695-767, 696-7

climate 695food 57, 704, 725, 751highlights 696-7hiking 62, 708history 698travel passes 698, 766travel to/within 698

Llacquerware 257, 856, see

also craft & folk art museums

lakesAshino-ko 167Ikeda-kō 760Kawaguchi-ko 164Kussharo-ko 631Kuttara-ko 598-9Mashū-ko 631Motosu-ko 158Sai-ko 158Shikotsu-ko 599-600Shōji-ko 158Tazawa-ko 542Tōya-ko 600-10Yamanaka-ko 158

language 24, 27, 836, 904-8

food 58, 840Okinawan 785onsen 63skiing 51Southwest Islands 770train travel 899

legal matters 884-5legends 281, 455, 519, 543lesbian travellers 136, 883lifestyle 836-8literature, see authors,

booksluggage forwarding 28, 893

Mmachiya 319Magome 15, 231, 15maiko 331Makurazaki 760Manabe-shima 472-3manga 305, 440, 479,

512, 861Mano 559-60marimo 630maritime museums 193,

195, 383, 385markets 31, 30, see also

food marketsHakodate 636-7Kanazawa 249Kōchi 663Kyoto 321, 354Naha 787Nishiki Market 304-5Takayama 241Tokyo 79, 80, 94-5,

109, 130Wakkanai 614

martial arts 870-1Marugame 690-1Matsue 474-8, 475Matsumoto 267-73, 268Matsushima 510-11Matsuyama 669-79, 670

accommodation 672-3drinking 673-9food 673nightlife 673-9sights 671-2travel to/within 679

Matsuzaki 182-3measures 886media 885meditation 190, 331Megijima 464Meiji Restoration 830-1Meiji-jingū 89memorials

26 Martyrs Memorial 719Korean Atomic Bomb

Victims Memorial 435Minami-Sanriku Crisis

Management Centre 523

Nagasaki National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims 715

One-Pillar Torii 717Peace Memorial Park 792Rikuzen-takata

Ippon-matsu 523Shiroyama Elementary

School 717

military bases 795military museums 793Minakami Onsen-kyo 293-5Minami-Sanriku 523Minato Mirai 21 193minshuku 868Miyagi Prefecture 505-

14, 505Miyajima 22, 445-9, 446,

22, 677Miyako Islands 798-802,

799Miyako-jima 798-801, 799Miyama-chō 429-31Miyanoshita 171-2Miyazaki 762-6, 763Miyazaki Hayao 52, 861Miyazaki-jingū 763mobile phones 24, 887Mojikō 702Momotarō 455money 24, 27, 60, 885-6,

see also costsmonkeys 286, 325monuments, see Buddhist

statues, statues & monuments

Morioka 514-17, 516Motobu Peninsula 793-4Moto-Hakone 174Motomachi 195-6motorcycle travel 895-7Motosu-ko 167mountain-biking 294mountains, see also

Mt FujiAso-gogaku 735Bizan 645Daisen 481Five Mountains of Aso

735Gas-san 552Haguro-san 551-2Hakkōda-san 534Hakodate-yama 638Hiei-zan 327Inasa-yama 719Ishizuchi-san 689Jōnen-dake 274Kasa-yama 495Kofuji 211Kujū-san 739Me-Akan-dake 629-30Mt Chibusa 211Rausu-dake 625Shari-dake 623Takao-san 198Tamoyachi-dake 534Tsurugi-san 661-2

Usu-zan 601Utsukushi-ga-hara-kō-

gen 268Yariga-take 22Yudono-san 552

Mt Fuji 17, 66, 40-1, 159-62, 157, 160, 17, 40-1

climbing 162food 158, 161highlights 157hiking 61trails 159-60

Murakami Haruki 860-1Murō-ji 406Muroto-misaki 655-6museums 28, 29, see

also Ainu museums, archaeological sites & museums, art galleries & art museums, craft & folk art museums, design museums, maritime museums, rail-way museums, science & technology museums, volcano museums

Ainokura Minzoku-kan 248

Chiran Peace Museum 758

Cosmo Isle Hakui 259Dejima Museum 717-18Dondenkan 225-6DT Suzuki Museum 252Edo-Tokyo Museum 105Former Kaichi School 268Former Mikasa Hotel 291Fujisan World Heritage

Center 164Fukui Dinosaur Museum

264Fukuoka City Museum

701Fukushima Checkpoint

Site 232-3Gifu City History

Museum 228Gokayama Minzoku-kan

248Hakone Geomuseum 173Hakone Sekisho 174Hida Carpentry Museum

242Higashi Iya History &

Folk Museum 660Himeyuri Peace Museum

793Hirado Christian

Museum 711Hiroshima Peace

Memorial Museum 16, 439, 16

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

921IN

DEX M

-NHokkaidō Museum 581Intermediatheque 78Inuyama Artifacts

Museum/Castle & Town Museum 225

Iriomote Wildlife Conservation Center 809

Ishigaki City Yaeyama Museum 803

Ishinomori Mangattan Museum 512

Iwami Ginzan World Heritage Centre 485

Izumo Cultural Heritage Museum 484

Japan Rural Toy Museum 469-70

Japan Ukiyo-e Museum 269

Japanese Lamp & Lighting Museum 286-7

Kaikarō 253Kanazawa Phonograph

Museum 253Karakuri Exhibition

Room (Annex) 225Karakuri Museum 237Kawai Kanjirō Memorial

Hall 311Kawamura Kaneto Ainu

Memorial Hall 602Kiriko Kaikan 261Kōbe City Museum 383Koizumi Yakumo

(Lafcadio Hearn) Memorial Museum 474

Kyoto National Museum 310-11

Kyūshū National Museum 707

Lapis Ōboke 661Les Archives du Cœur

465Liberty Osaka 369Matsue History Museum

474Matsumoto Timepiece

Museum 268Matsūra Historical

Museum 711Meiji-mura 226Miho Museum 428Miyajima History &

Folklore Museum 447Miyazaki Prefectural

Museum of Nature & History 764

Morijuku Museum 490Nagahama Hikiyama

Museum 428Nagai Takashi Memorial

Museum 715

Nagamachi Yūzen-kan 252

Nagara River Ukai Museum 228

Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum 714

Nagasaki Museum of His-tory & Culture 718-19

Nakaze-tei 182Nara National Museum

394National Museum of

Ethnology 370National Museum of

Nature & Science 102Nebuta no Ie Wa Rasse

526Okinawa Prefectural

Museum & Art Museum 787

Okinawa Prefectural Peace Memorial Museum 792

Ōkura-yama Ski Jump Stadium 580-1

Museum of the Meiji Restoration 750

Osaka Museum of History 365

Reihōkan 412Sand Museum 482Sengūkan 423Shiki Memorial Museum

671Shikoku-mura 689Shima 253Shimane Museum of

Ancient Izumo 484Shitamachi Museum 102Southern Cross Center

784Takai Kōzan Kinenkan

286Takao 599 Museum 198-9Takayama Festival Floats

Exhibition Hall 237Takayama Museum of

History & Art 237Takayama Shōwa-kan 236Tanegashima

Development Centre - Gun Museum 777

Teshima Art Museum 465-6

Tōdai-ji Museum 395Tokyo National Museum

97-9, 101, 127, 98, 99, 127

Tōno Municipal Museum 520

Twenty-Four Eyes Movie Village 466-7

Umigame-kan 773Utsukushi-ga-hara Open

Air Museum 268-9Waki-honjin (Okuya) &

Local History Museum 231

Yakushima Environmental & Cultural Village Center 773

Yakusugi Museum 773Yokohama Archives of

History 195Yoron Minzoku-mura 784Yuzawa Town History

Museum 563music 862

Kodō drummers 561sanshin 796taiko 561, 862

Myōjō-ji 259Myōkō Kōgen 565-6Myōryū-ji 254Myōshin-ji 323

NNachi 419-20Naeba 564-5Nagahama 428-9Nagano 280-3, 282Nagano Prefecture 280-92,

284Nagasaki 714-27, 716,

720, 722accommodation 721-3drinking 725festivals & events 721food 723-5history 718, 724internet access 725nightlife 725sights 714-21tourist information 725tours 721travel agencies 726travel to/within 726-7

Nagasaki Prefecture 714-30Nagoya 212, 213-25, 216

accommodation 220-1drinking 222entertainment 222festivals & events 220food 221-2history 217internet resources 224medical services 223-4nightlife 222orientation 223shopping 222-3sights 217-20

tourist information 224travel to/within 224-5

Naha 786-92, 788, 44-5accommodation 789-90drinking 791festivals & events 789food 790nightlife 791sights 787-9travel to/within 791-2

Nansei-shotō, see South-west Islands

Nanzen-ji 315, 318Naoshima 17, 28, 460-5,

688, 462, 17Nara 15, 391-402, 392,

404, 15, 38-9accommodation 399-400drinking 401festivals & events 399food 400-1history 391, 393nightlife 401shopping 401sights 393-9tours 399travel to/within 402walking tours 398

Narai 233-4Narita 208Narita Airport 28Naruko Onsen 513-14Naruto 649-53National Art Center Tokyo

84, 4national parks 876-7

Akan National Park 627-34, 628, 42-3

Akiyoshi-dai Quasi- National Park 488

Daisen-Oki National Park 478, 481

Daisetsuzan National Park 609-13, 606-7

Hakusan National Park 253

Hokkaidō 574-5Kirishima-yaku National

Park 760-2Kushiro-shitsugen

National Park 635-6Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu

National Park 617-21, 614-15

San-in Coast National Park 483-4

Shikotsu-Tōya National Park 595-601, 596-7

Shiretoko National Park 623-7, 624

922

IND

EX N- P

navy bases 795nightlife 21, 21, see also

individual locationsNichinan-kaigan 767Niigata 554-7Niigata Prefecture 554-66,

555Nii-jima 186Nikkō 200-6, 202Niseko 589-93, 596-7Nishi Hongan-ji 299, 302Nishi-Iya 658-9Nishino-shima 480Nishiki Market 304-5, 339nō 824, 857-8

Kanazawa 256Tokyo 143

Noboribetsu Onsen 598-9Nokonoshima 702northern Hokkaidō 602-20northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

67, 501-70, 502-3climate 501food 56, 535, 536highlights 502-3hiking 553history 504national parks 504skiing 564travel passes 504travel to/within 504-5

Northern Japan Alps 267-80Northern Kansai 429-33Northern Territories

dispute 622Noto Peninsula 258-62,

260Nozawa Onsen 287-8nuclear disasters 566,

816-17Nyūtō Onsen 544-5

OŌagata-jinja 226Obi 767Ōboke 660-1Obuse 286-7Ōfunato 523Ogasawara Archipelago

208-11Ogi 560-2Ogijima 464Ogimachi 246-7Ōhara 326-8

Okayama 455-60, 456Okayama Prefecture 454-73Oki Islands 478-81Okinawa 68, 44-5

food 57-8, 791hiking 62language 785

Okinawa-hontō 785-94, 786

Okinoerabu-jima 782-3okonomiyaki 57Okuhida Onsen-gō 242-5Oku-Matsushima 511Oku-no-in 14, 410, 15Oku-Tama 198-200Olympics 28, 816, 871Ōma 536Ōmi-shima 453Onomichi 449-52onsen 11, 63-5, 11

Akanko Onsen 628-31Aoni Onsen 532Arita 713Asahidake Onsen 610-11Beppu 65, 741-2Bessho Onsen 289costs 63Daisetsu Kōgen Onsen

612-13Dōgashima 183Dōgo Onsen 65, 678Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen

563-4etiquette 63-4food 744Fukiage Roten-no-yu

613Fukuji Onsen 244Funaoka Onsen 65Ginzan Onsen 550Gokayama district 248Hachijō-jima 186Hakone 65Hakone-Yumoto 170Hirauchi Kaichū Onsen

65Hirayu Onsen 243-4Hōheikyō 597-8Ibusuki 65, 759Itō 176-7Kaga Onsen 262-3Kamikōchi 275Kaniyu Onsen 207Kawa-yu Onsen 417Kawayu Onsen 631-4Kinosaki 65Kinosaki Onsen 431-3Kirishima-yaku National

Park 761

Kowakidani 171Kurama Onsen 65Kurodake-no-yu 612Kurokawa Onsen 11, 65,

737-8Kusatsu Onsen 295-6Kyoto 331Kyūshū 11, 699Marukoma Onsen 600Minakami Onsen 65Minakami Onsen-kyo

293-4Miyanoshita 171Mizunashi Kaihin Onsen

639Nakabusa Onsen 65Naruko Onsen 513-14Niseko 589-90Nishi-Iya 659Noboribetsu Onsen 65,

598-9Northern Honshū 11Nozawa Onsen 287Nyūtō Onsen 11, 65,

544-5Ōedo Onsen

Monogatari 65Ogimachi 246Oku-Tama 199Onsen Tengoku 599Osaka 370Ō-shima 185Ōsumi Islands 65Rishiri-Fuji Onsen 620Roten-no-yu 65Ryūjin Onsen 65, 414Shikine-jima 186Shin-Hotaka Onsen 65,

244-5Shirahama 421Shirahone Onsen 275Shiretoko National

Park 625Shuzen-ji Onsen 184Sōunkyō Onsen 611-12Tanegashima 777tattoos 64Tōhoku 11Tokachidake Onsen 613Tokyo 111-12Tsuwano 492Unzen 729Watarase Onsen 417Yakushima 774Yamanaka-ko 167Yufuin 65Yumoto Onsen 207Yunomine Onsen 417Zaō Onsen 548-50

opening hours 25, 886origami 95Osaka 359-82, 362, 7, 674

accommodation 372-4activities 370-1Amerika-Mura 365Banpaku-kinen-kōen 370Dōtombori 21, 365-6, 674drinking 377-8entertainment 378-9festivals & events 371-2food 374-7history 359internet access 380itineraries 369Kita 359-63, 372, 374-5,

377, 379, 364medical services 380Minami 365-7, 373-4, 376,

378, 379, 366, 368Naka-no-shima 363-5,

372-3, 377-8nightlife 377-8Osaka-jō area 363-5,

375-6safety 380Semba 363-5, 372-3,

375-6, 377-8Shin-Sekai 367, 369shopping 379-80sights 359-70Tempōzan 369-70Tennōji 367, 369, 377-80,

379-80tourist information 380tours 371travel agencies 380travel to/within 380-2Ura-Namba 377walking tours 368

Osaka-jō 364-5, 2Ō-shima 185-6Osorezan-bodaiji 536Ōsu Kannon 219Ōsumi Islands 771-8Otaru 593-5, 594Ōtsu 426Ōtsuchi 525Ōzu 681-2

Ppainting 854-5palaces, see also castles

Imperial Palace (Tokyo) 75, 77

Kyoto Imperial Palace 306-8, 310

Shūgaku-in Rikyū Imperial Villa 321

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

923IN

DEX P

-Sparks, see also gardens,

national parksApple Park 529Arashiyama Monkey Park

Iwatayama 325Atomic Bomb Hypocentre

Park 715Chūō-kōen 647Dōgo-kōen 671-2Godaisan 663Goryō-kaku-kōen 638Heiwadai-kōen 762Hino-yama-kōen 497-8Hirosaki-kōen 529Hiyori-yama Kōen 512Inokashira-kōen 110Kanman-ga-Fuchi Abyss

204Kansui Park 265Koshimizu Gensei-kaen

623Kōzan-kōen 486, 488Kyoto Imperial Palace

Park 308Maruyama-kōen 313Moerenuma-kōen 581Momiji-dani-kōen 447Mt Asama Magma Stone

Park 290Nara-kōen 15Nikkō Tamozawa

Imperial Villa Memorial Park 203

Odaiba Kaihin-kōen 107-8

Ōdōri-kōen 579Ōhori-kōen 699Onshi Hakone Kōen 174Peace Memorial Park

435, 792, 16Peace Park 715Ritsurin-kōen 685-6Senshū-kōen 537Shimoda Kōen &

Wakanoura Promenade Park 178

Shinjuku-gyoen 95Shizuki-kōen 493-4Tenjin Chūō-kōen 701Ueno-kōen 101Ue-no-yama Ryokuchi

523Yamashita-kōen 195Yoyogi-kōen 89-90Zō-no-hana Park 193

Path of Philosophy 318-19Peace Memorial 435,

792, 16phonecards 888photo booths 89

pilgrimage routes 18, 6288 Temple Route 18Dewa Sanzan 18Kumano Kodō 18, 415-

16, 18planning 24, 26-7, see also

individual regionsbudgeting 25, 28, 59-60calendar of events 32-5children, travel with 52internet resources 25itineraries 36-47Japan basics 24-5, 26-7Japan’s regions 66-8repeat visitors 28travel seasons 24, 32-5

plants 876, see also cherry-blossom viewing, plum-blossom viewing, autumn- foliage viewing

plum-blossom viewing 32, 875

pop culture 31population 817, 835-6postal services 886pottery 713, 787

Bizen 460galleries 709Hagi 496Kyūshū 715museums 172, 363-4Tokonome Pottery

Footpath 223public art

Hachikō Statue 87Higashi-Iya 659-60Maman 81Myth of Tomorrow 87Shinjuku I-Land 92, 94White Deer 85

public holidays 886puppet theatre 372, 645-6,

858purikura 89

Rrailway museums

Hara Model Railway Museum 193

JR SCMAGLEV & Railway Park 219

Kyoto Railway Museum 302

Railway Museum (Omiya) 204

Usui Tōge Railway Village 292

rakugo 858ramen 193, 196, 370, 845-6

Rebun-tō 617-18religion 838-9Rikugi-en 104Rikuzen-takata 523Rinnō-ji 201, 203Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu

National Park 617-21, 614-15

Rishiri-tō 618-20Roppongi Hills 81rotemburo 293Ryōan-ji 11, 322ryokan 12, 334, 866-8 13Ryōtsu 562Ryūjin Onsen 414

SSado-ga-shima 557-63, 558safety 887Saijō 444Sai-ko 166Sakai Minato 478Sakata 553-4sake 164-5, 385, 444,

556, 570Sakurai 406Sakurajima 757-67samurai 825, 829

houses 727, 758Kakunodate 540museums 541, 567

sand baths 759, 474San-in coast 473-86San-in Coast National Park

483-4Sanjūsangen-dō Temple 310Sanriku Kaigan 28, 522-5Sanzen-in 327-8Sapporo 68, 577-88, 578,

676accommodation 571,

582-4activities 582climate 571, 574drinking 586entertainment 586festivals & events 582food 57, 571, 584-6highlights 572-3hiking 62history 577-8nightlife 586orientation 586-7sights 579-82tourist information 587tours 582travel to/within 587-8

sashimi 843-4, 54-5

Satsuma Peninsula 758-60Sawata 559-60science & technology

museumsKawasaki Good Times

World 383, 385Mazda Museum 440Miyazaki Science Centre

763Motorcar Museum of

Japan 262Nagoya City Science

Museum 219National Museum of

Emerging Science & Innovation (Miraikan) 109

Space Science & Technology Museum 777

Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry & Technology 217-18

Toyota Exhibition Hall 219-20

Sea of Okhotsk 621sea travel 892sea turtles 774Sendai 506-10, 507Sengaku-ji 87Sengokuhara 173Sensō-ji 104-5, 127Sensui-jima 453sentō 65shabu-shabu 844Shari 622-3Shibuya Crossing 87, 37Shiga Kōgen 288-9Shiga Prefecture 426-9,

427Shikanoshima 702Shigeru, Mizuki 479Shikine-jima 186Shikoku 68, 641-94, 642-3

climate 641driving 694food 57, 666highlights 642hiking 62, 689internet access 648travel to/from 644

Shikotsu-ko 599-600Shikotsu-Tōya National

Park 595-601, 596-7Shimabara 727-8, 728Shimabara Peninsula

727-30Shimanami Kaidō Islands

452-3Shimanto City 667-8

924

IND

EX S-T

Shimanto-gawa 667Shimoda 178-81, 180Shimogamo-jinja 309Shimoji-jima 801-2Shimokita Peninsula 535-7Shimonoseki 497-500,

498-9Shingū 418-19Shin-Hotaka Onsen 244-5shinkansen 28, 899Shintō shrines 22, 29, 838

Daisen 481Dazaifu 707Dewa Sanzan 552Fuji-Yoshida 163Fukuoka 699Hakone-machi 174Hokkaidō-jingū 580Hongū 417Inuyama 226Ise-Shima 422-3, 424Izumo 484Kamakura 189, 190Kashihara 405Kōbe 383Kotohira 691-3Kurashiki 471Kyoto 303-4, 309-10,

313-14, 315, 320-1Matsuyama 672Miyajima 446-7Miyazaki 763-4Nagasaki 719Nagoya 220Nara 395Nikkō 200-1, 203Oku-Tama 199Osaka 363, 369Sakurai 406Shimonoseki 497Takachino 748Takasaki 292Tanabe 415Togakushi 283, 285Tokyo 80, 84-5, 89, 94-5,

101-2, 104Tsuwano 490Uwajima 683Yoshino 407

Shira-hama 181-2Shirahone Onsen 275Shiraishi-jima 473Shirakami-sanchi 531Shirakawa-gō 245-8, 39

Shiretoko National Park 623-7, 624

Shishikui 653-4shōchū 755shodō 855Shōdo-shima 466-9, 688,

467Shōhō-ji (Gifu Great

Buddha) 228Shōji-ko 166shopping 23, 30-1, 23, see

also individual regionsShōren-in 314shrines 29, see also Shintō

shrinesShukunegi 560-2Shuri-jō 789, 44Shuzen-ji 184Shuzen-ji Onsen 184skiing 18, 48-51, 589, 49,

18, 51, see also snow sports

Asahi-dake 610Bandai Plateau 568costs 48, 51Daisen 481Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen 563Hakkōda-san 534-5Hakuba 278Ishizuchi-san 680Kuro-dake 611-12Kusatsu Onsen 295Myōkō Kōgen 565Naeba 564Niseko 18northern Honshū

(Tōhoku) 564Nozawa Onsen 287Rishiri-tō 619Rusutsu 590Shiga Kōgen 288-9Zaō Onsen 548

smoking 886snorkelling 209, 211, 794,

809, 813snow monkeys 286snow sports

Furano 605Niseko United 589Sapporo Tiene 582

snowboarding 48-51soccer 871Sotokaifu 562-3Sōunkyō Onsen 611-12Sōun-zan 173Southwest Islands 20, 68,

768-813, 769, 20accommodation 768climate 768, 770

food 768highlights 769hiking 62itineraries 770travel seasons 768travel to/within 770-1

sports & sporting venues 870-1, see also individual sports

Fukuoka Yafuoku! Dome 702

Sapporo Dome 586statues & monuments, see

also Buddhist statuesByakui Dai-kannon 292-3Kamaishi Dai-kannon 525Madame Butterfly

Statue 719One-Pillar Torii 717Peace Tower 762

street food 134subway travel 898sukiyaki 844Sumiyoshi Taisha 369sumo 16, 144, 870-1, 16surfing

Kisami 182Nii-jima 186Rishiri-tō 619Shikoku 645Shimoda 179

sushi 843-4, 12Suwa-jinja 719swords 94

TTachiarai 706Taikodani-Inari-jinja 490Takachiho 747-9, 748Takamatsu 641, 685-9, 686Takao 329-30Takao-san 198-9Takasaki 292-3Takayama 234-41, 235

accommodation 238-9courses 237drinking 240festivals & events 237-8food 239-40nightlife 240shopping 240-1sights 234-7travel to/within 241

Taketa 739Taketomi-jima 811-12Tanabe 415-16Tanegashima 776-8Tango Peninsula 433

Tanzan-jinja 406Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine

Route 270Tatsuko 543taxes 373taxis 898tea 56, 852, 853tea ceremonies 56, 331-2,

856, 56teahouses 730telephone services 24,

887-8temples 11, 27, 29, see

also Buddhist templesTeshima 465-6theatre 857-8, see also

kabuki, puppet theatreKyoto 350-1Tokyo 143-4

theme parks, see amusement parks

time 888tipping 27Tōdai-ji 15, 394-5, 396-7,

396-7Tōfuku-ji 302-3Togakushi 283-6Toi 175toilets 888Tokachi 636Tokachidake Onsen 613Tokara-rettō Islands 777Tokoname 223Tokunoshima 781-2Tokushima 644-56, 645-9,

646Tokyo 40-1, 66, 70-155, 71,

72-3, 14, 21, 23, 37, 40, 126, 127

accommodation 70, 116-23

activities 111-13Akasaka 81-5, 117-18, 125,

128, 137-8, 146Akihabara 95-7, 120, 132,

140-1, 149-50, 96, 126Ameya-yokochō 150, 30Aoyama 89-92, 119, 130-

1, 139, 147-8, 90architecture 14, 30, 91, 14Asakusa 104-7, 121-2,

133-4, 141, 150-1, 106children, travel with 85climate 70courses 114-15cruises 112-13drinking 135-42Ebisu 85-7, 118, 128-9,

138, 146-7, 86entertainment 142-5

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

925IN

DEX T-Z

festivals & events 115-16food 56, 70, 123-35galleries 80gay travellers 136Ginza 23, 79-81, 117, 124-

5, 136-7, 145-6, 76Golden Gai 140Harajuku 23, 89-92,

119, 130-1, 139, 147-8, 90, 23

highlights 71hiking 61history 74-5internet access 152internet resources 152-3itineraries 40, 81, 41Jimbōchō 149Kabukichō 21, 21Kagurazaka 95-7, 120,

132, 140-1, 96Kōrakuen 95-7, 120, 132,

140-1, 96lesbian travellers 136Marunouchi 75-9, 116-17,

123-4, 136, 145, 76medical services 152Meguro 85-7, 118, 128-9,

138, 86money 152nightlife 135-42Nihombashi 75-9, 116-17,

123-4, 136, 145Odaiba 107-9, 134-5,

141-2, 108Omote-sandō 91, 14orientation 151planning 115Roppongi 81-5, 117-18,

125, 128, 137-8, 146, 82safety 151Shibuya 87-9, 118-19,

129-30, 138-9, 147, 88, 37

Shimo-Kitazawa 92, 118-19

Shinjuku 92-5, 119-20, 131-2, 139-40, 148-9, 93

shopping 23, 145-51sights 75-111Sumida River 104-7, 121-

2, 133-4, 141, 150-1telephone services 152Tennōzu Isle 109Tokyo Bay 28, 107-9,

134-5, 141-2, 108tourist information 152tours 113-14travel seasons 70travel to/from 153

travel within 137, 153-5Tsukiji 28, 79-81, 117,

124-5, 136-7, 145-6, 76

Ueno 97, 101-4, 120-1, 132-3, 141, 150, 100

walking tours 103, 114, 103

west Tokyo 109-11, 110, 122-3, 135, 142, 151

Yanesen 97, 101-4, 120-1, 132-3, 141, 150, 100, 103

Tokyo Disney Resort 113Tokyo International

Forum 79Tokyo National Museum

97-9, 101, 98-9, 98, 99, 127

Tokyo Sky Tree 105, 864Tomakomai 601-2Tomo-no-ura 453-4Tōno 519-22, 520Tōshō-gū 200-1Tottori 482-3tourist information 888tours, see also boat cruises

& boat tours, walking tours, individual regions

Towada-ko 533-4, 533Tōya-ko 600-10Toyama 265-6train museums, see railway

museumstrain travel 28, 31, 512,

898-903language 899passes 900-3reservations 900shinkansen 28, 899tickets 899-900

trams 898transport 25, 60, 891-903travel seasons 24, 887,

24, see also individual regions

travel to/from Japan 891-2travel within Japan 892-3Tsukiji Market 79-80Tsumago 15, 231-2, 15Tsurugi-san 661-2Tsuruoka 550-1Tsuwano 490-3, 491tuna 536

UUchiko 680-1Ueno Tōshō-gū 101-2ukai 227, 228, 229ukiyo-e 855

ume 415Umeda Sky Building 359,

362, 30Unzen 728-30Usuki 746-7Utazu 690Uwajima 683-5, 684

Vvacations 886visas 24, 889volcano museums 600,

727, 735volcanoes 874

Bandai-san 568Iō-zan 632Iwaki-san 531Kaimon-dake 760Kirishima-yaku National

Park 760-1Mihara-san 185Mt Asama 290Naka-dake 735O-Akan-dake 630Osore-zan 536Ōwakudani 173Sakurajima 757Shinmoe-dake 762Unzen-dake 727Yōtei-zan 598Yufu-dake 738

volunteering 889-90

WWakkanai 613-16, 614-15walking tours

Kyoto 350Minami (Osaka) 368, 368Nara 398, 398Tokyo 103, 103

waterfallsAnmon Falls 531Kegon-no-taki 206-7Nachi-no-taki 419Nunobiki Falls 383Ōko-no-taki 773Pinaisāra-no-taki 809Ryūzu-no-taki 207Senriga-taki 760Soundless Waterfall 328

weather 24, 32-5, 48, 24, see also individual regions

weights 886western Honshū 67, 434-

500, 436-7climate 434highlights 436-7

hiking 62travel seasons 434

whale-watching 211whaling 877white-water rafting 294wi-fi 28wildlife 875-6women in Japan 839women travellers 890work 890

YYaeyama Islands 802-14,

804-5Yahata 702yakitori 58Yakuō-in 199Yakushi-ji 403Yakushima 20, 771-6,

772, 44Yamadera 547-8Yamagata 545-7Yamagata Prefecture 545-

54, 546Yamaguchi 486-90, 487Yamaguchi Prefecture

486-500Yamate 195-6Yamato Plain 405-7Yashima 689-90Yawatahama 682-3Yayoi people 818-19Yokohama 192-8, 194Yonaguni-jima 813-14Yonezawa 547Yoron-tō 784-5Yoshimizu-jinja 407Yoshino 407-8Yuasa 409Yudanaka 286Yufuin 738-9Yumoto Onsen 207-8

ZZamami-jima 796-7Zaō Onsen 548-50zazen 190Zeniarai-benten 190Zenkō-ji 280, 281Zenshō-ji 262-3Zentsū-ji 691Zōjō-ji 84zoos

Asahiyama Zoo 602Ueno Zoo 102

Zuisen-ji 189-90

926

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MTR/MRT station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Kate Morgan Kyoto Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destina-tions such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at home working as a

freelance editor.

Simon RichmondTokyo Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered including Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s

penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching - follow him on Instagram to see some of his photos and sketches.

Tom Spurling Northern Honshū Tom Spurling is an Australian travel writer and high school teacher who has worked on 13 travel guides for Lonely Planet. His titles include Australia, Turkey, Central America, China, India and South Africa. On his second Japan guide he covered the mythical northeast where the wild things roam but the shinkansen Green Car still runs. He is looking forward to returning in winter to attempt to ski where he once trod.

Phillip TangHiroshima & Around, Okayama & Around Phillip Tang grew up on typically Australian pho and fish’n’chips. A degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cul-tures launched him into travel and writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. More pics and words: philliptang.co.uk. Phillip has made his home in Sydney, Melbourne, London and Mexico City. His travels include most countries in Europe, much of Asia

and Latin America, as well as the greatest hits of North America.

Benedict WalkerThe Japan Alps & Central Honshū, Matsue & Around, Tottori & Around, Yamaguchi & Around Born in Newcastle, Australia, notions of the beach are core to Ben’s idea of self, having travelled hundreds of thousands of kilometres from the sandy shores of home. Ben was given his first Lonely Planet guide (Japan) when he was 12. Two decades later, he’d write chapters for the same publication: a dream come true. A communications graduate and travel agent by trade, Ben whittled away his

twenties gallivanting around the globe. He speaks fluent Japanese and has contributed to LP’s Japan guide, twice. Ben thinks the best thing about travel isn’t as much about where you go as who you meet: living vicariously through the stories of kind strangers enriches one’s own experience. Ben has also written and directed a play, toured Australia managing the travel logistics for top-billing music festivals and is experimenting with a return to his original craft of photography and film-making.

Wendy YanagiharaAround Tokyo, Okinawa & the Southwest Islands Wendy serendipitously landed her dream job of writing for Lonely Planet in 2003, and has since spent the intervening years contributing to titles including Southeast Asia on a Shoestring, Vietnam, Japan, Mexico, Costa Rica, Indonesia, and Grand Canyon National Park. In the name of research, she has hiked remote valleys of West Papua, explored the tiny nooks and alleys of Tokyo sprawl, trekked on a Patagonian glacier, and rafted Colo-

rado River whitewater. Wendy has also written for BBC Travel, the Guardian, Lonely Planet Magazine, lonelyplanet.com, and intermittently freelances as a graphic designer, illustrator, and visual artist. Instagram: @wendyyanagihara

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415315th edition – Aug 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 035 2© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSRebecca MilnerCurator, Tokyo, Hokkaido, Osaka California born. Longtime Tokyo resident (14 years and counting!). Co-author of Lonely Planet guides to Tokyo, Japan, Korea and Chi-na. Freelance writer covering travel, food & culture. Published in the Guardian, the Independent, the Sunday Times Travel Magazine, the Japan Times and more. After spending the better part of my twenties working to travel – doing odd jobs in Tokyo to make money so I could spend months at a time backpacking around Asia – I was

fortunate enough to turn the tables in 2010, joining the Lonely Planet team of freelance authors.

Ray BartlettKyushu Ray Bartlett has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or contact him for questions or motivational

speaking opportunities via www.kaisora.com, his website. Ray Bartlett currently divides his time between homes in the USA, Japan and Mexico.

Andrew Bender Kansai Andrew is a native New Englander who worked in the financial industry in Tokyo and the film industry in Los Angeles before setting out to pursue his dream of travelling and writing about it. He has since authored more than three dozen LP titles as varied as Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Norway, Amsterdam, Germany and his cur-rent home of Southern California. He also writes the Seat 1A travel site for Forbes.com, and contributes to the Los Angeles Times and airline magazines. Catch his

work at www.wheres-andy-now.com.

Craig McLachlanHiking in Japan, Skiing in Japan, Shikoku Craig has covered destinations all over the globe for Lonely Planet for two decades. Based in Queenstown, New Zealand, for half the year, he runs an outdoor activities company and a sake brewery, then moonlights overseas for the other half, leading tours and writing for Lonely Planet. Describing himself as a ‘freelance anything’, Craig has an MBA from the University of Hawai’i and is also a Japanese interpreter, pilot, photographer, hiking guide, tour

leader, karate instructor and budding novelist. Check out www.craigmclachlan.com.

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’