573573

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Mauro Bisello, Marina Caputi, Huseyin Cetek, Daniela Ciscato, Gloria Rodríguez Gil, Michael Hanna, Carola Kehrle, Cornelia Kerkhoff, Chris Knaggs, Julian Lord, Mimi Mengerink, Wynn Rees, Emmy Skensved, Sally Stevens, Murat Ucar.

AUTHOR THANKS Korina MillerAn enormous thank you to Kirk and my mum and dad for minding the fort while I was away and making it possible for me to take this pro-ject on. Thank you to my fabulous daughters, Monique and Simone, for letting me work and also encouraging me to take breaks. Thank you to Brana at LP for her support and to my co- authors for their insights and cameraderie. A warm efharisto to all of the people I met on the road – both locals and travellers – who shared their stories, knowledge and enthusiasm for Greece and were unwaveringly hospitable de-spite such difficult times. And thanks to Bing the loyal coonhound for keeping me company while I burned the midnight oil.

Alexis AverbuckBoundless gratitude to Alexandra Stamopou-lou for her inspiration. She travels with me everywhere. Ryan Ver Berkmoes was a peachy road companion and an aces navigator on unmarked Cretan tracks. Thanks to Ramona for an insider’s take on Gavdos. Big cheer for Korina, Kate and Richard, who contributed so much to the Crete chapter. Applause for Brana: conscientious, informed and compas-sionate editor. Margarita, Kostas, Zisis, Anthy and Costas made Athens home. Efharisto poli to those who welcomed me so warmly around Crete, the Saronic Gulf and Athens.

Carolyn BainEfharisto poli to Brana Vladisavljevic for a wonderful gig, and to Team Greece for sterling work. Across the Cyclades, hundreds of kind, generous locals (and visitors) answered my questions, engaged in conversation, fed me (oh god, did they feed me!) and showed me the meaning of heartwarming Greek filoxenia. Sincere thanks to all of them. Thanks to old friends Fiona and William Reeve for fun on Santorini, and to my favourite co-traveller, Kelvin Adams, for three weeks of ace company and dedicated research of beaches and blue domes.

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

574

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Michael Stamatios ClarkΕυχαριστω to all who made my ferry-hopping through the Greek islands a trip from the start. Special thanks to my splendiferous family, Janet, Melina and Alexandros, and to the editorial team of Brana Vladisavljevic and Korina Miller for cheerful support through-out. In the Sporades islands, many thanks to Chrysanthi, Amanda, Heather, Pakis, Alexan-dra, Georgos and Mahi, Makis, Bessie, Gisela; in the Aegean, thanks to Anastasia, Theofilos, the Fouskas family, Demetra and Vassilis, Naya and Petros, and Tasos, Margarita and Kostas.

Greg WardThanks to the many wonderful people who make travelling in the Dodecanese such a pleasure, and thanks above all to my wife, Sam Cook, for sharing the fun.

Richard WatersSpecial thanks to Michael in Corfu and Leo-nidas at Pachis travel. Also to Lily Alicabiotis. There are many Greek people who made my journey easy at what were difficult times for them, so my thanks to all. Thanks too to Korina Miller and Alexis Averbuck, my coordi-nating authors, for all their help and patience, and to Brana Vladisavljevic, my destination ed, for sending me out there.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163–3 44.

Illustrations pp64–5 and pp264–5 by Javier Martinez Zarracina.

Cover photograph: Oia, Santorini (Thira); AWL/Shaun Egan.

THIS BOOK This 9th edition of Lonely Plan-et’s Greek Islands guidebook was researched and written by Korina Miller, Alexis Aver-buck, Carolyn Bain, Michael Stamatios Clark, Greg Ward and Richard Waters. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Brana VladisavljevicProduct Editors Elizabeth Jones, Kate MathewsSenior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Michael BuickAssisting Editors Pete Cruttenden, Carly Hall, Victoria Harrison, Ross Taylor

Cover Researcher Wendy WrightThanks to Brendan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Andi Jones, Indra Kilfoyle, Claire Murphy, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridgway, Diana Saengkham, Dianne Schallmeiner, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson, Lauren Wellicome, Amanda Williamson, Sofia Zournatzidi

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 575

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodation 18, 550-1,

568, see also individual locations

Acropolis (Athens) 12, 63-9, 66, 12

activities 45-8, see also individual activities

Adamas 230-1Aegean, see northeastern

Aegean islandsAegiali 204-5Aegina 130-4, 130Aegina Town 131-3Agapi 159Agathonisi 380-1Agia Galini 280Agia Marina (Leros) 368-9Agia Marina (Spetses) 147Agia Paraskevi 147Agia Pelagia 511-12Agia Triada 267Agiasos 427Agii Anargyri 147Agios Antonios 342Agios Efstratios 433-4Agios Georgios (Agathonisi)

380-1Agios Georgios (Crete) 305Agios Gordios 483Agios Kirykos 390-1Agios Nikitas 491Agios Nikolaos (Anafi) 223Agios Nikolaos (Crete)

296-8, 296, 26Agios Nikolaos (Zakynthos)

506Agios Pavlos 280Agios Stefanos 481air travel 39, 559-60, 561alcohol 43, 44, 194, 556, see

also wineAlexander the Great 518

Alinda 370-1Alonnisos 460-5, 462Alopronia 224-5Amorgos 201-6, 201Anafi 222-3Anavatos 411Ancient Agora (Athens) 75,

76, 76Ancient Delos 175Ancient Eleusis 127Andros 151-5, 152Angistri 134animals 546-8, see also

individual speciesAno Mera 173Ano Meria 228Ano Petali 237Ano Syros 164Anogi 502Anogia 277-8Antia 450Antikythira 512, 508Antiparos 184-5, 178-9Antipaxi 487, 485Apella Beach 329Aphrodite 509Apiranthos 194Apollo Coast 122-5Apollonas 195Apollonia 236-7archaeological museums,

see also museumsAndros Archaeological

Museum 154Archaeological Museum

(Agios Nikolaos) 297Archaeological Museum

(Astypalea) 358Archaeological Museum

(Chios) 409Archaeological Museum

(Fira) 213Archaeological Museum

(Fry) 331Archaeological Museum

(Halkida) 446

Archaeological Museum (Hania) 281

Archaeological Museum (Ikaria) 390, 393

Archaeological Museum (Ios) 208

Archaeological Museum (Kalymnos) 362

Archaeological Museum (Kastellorizo) 333

Archaeological Museum (Kea) 245

Archaeological Museum (Kefallonia) 495

Archaeological Museum (Kos) 349

Archaeological Museum (Lavrio) 122

Archaeological Museum (Lefkada) 489

Archaeological Museum (Mandraki) 343

Archaeological Museum (Mykonos) 168

Archaeological Museum (Myrina) 430

Archaeological Museum (Mytilini) 419

Archaeological Museum (Naxos) 189

Archaeological Museum (Parikia) 179

Archaeological Museum (Rethymno) 273

Archaeological Museum (Rhodes) 311-12

Archaeological Museum (Samos) 401

Archaeological Museum (Samothraki) 437

Archaeological Museum (Skyros) 466

Archaeological Museum (Thasos) 440

Archaeological Museum (Tinos) 157

Archaeological Museum of Eretria 447

Archaeological Museum of Karystos 450

Archaeological Museum of Paleopoli 155

Archaeological Museum of Pythagorio 403

Archaeology Museum (Milos) 232

Folk Museum Collection (Naxos) 189

Heraklion Archaeological Museum 257-9, 269

Ierapetra Archaeological Museum 303

Marathon Archaeological Museum 126-7

National Archaeological Museum 84, 85

Palace of Knossos 263-7, 263, 264-5

Piraeus Archaeological Museum 118

Sitia Archaeological Museum 301

archaeological sites, see also Roman sites, temples & sanctuaries, tombs

Acropolis (Athens) 12, 63-9, 66, 12

Acropolis of Lindos 320Acropolis of Rhodes 315Alyki 442Ancient Agora (Athens) 75Ancient Agora (Thasos)

440Ancient Akrotiri 220Ancient Delos 175Ancient Ialysos 322Ancient Kamiros 322Ancient Lato 300Ancient Thira 220Asklepieion 353Gortyna 271Heraion 404Keramikos 83Knossos 13, 263-7, 263,

13, 264-5Mikro Horio 340Paleokastro 343

576

IND

EX A-C

archaeological sites continued

Sanctuary of the Great Gods 436

Zakros Palace 302architecture 541-4area codes 17Argostili 495-7, 496Aristotle 529Arki 379-80Armenistis 394-5Armeos 363-5Artemonas 237art galleries, see galleries,

museumsarts 536-40, see also

individual artsAsklepieion 353Assos 499, 37Astris 441Astypalea 356-60, 357Athens 13, 52, 56-127, 60-1,

66, 68, 70-1, 76, 80-1, 86, 88-9, 13

accommodation 56, 95-9activities 91-2cinemas 111climate 56courses 92drinking & nightlife 105-8entertainment 109-11festivals & events

91, 94-5food 56, 99-105gay & lesbian travellers

109highlights 57history 58-62itineraries 58, 76, 92-3,

76, 93medical services 114safety 114shopping 111-13sights 62-91tourist information 115tours 92-4travel to/from 115-16travel within 117-18

ATMs 554-5Atsitsa 469Attica 122, 124August Moon Festival 23, 95Avgonyma 411Avlaki 481Avlemonas 512

BBarbati 481bargaining 19bathrooms 556-7Batsi 153beaches 383

Agia Anna Beach 205Agios Nikolaos 297Anafi 223Andros 155Apella Beach 329Argostoli 495Astypalea 359-60Eftalou Beach 424Egremni Beach 491Eristos Beach 341Falasarna 288-9Folegandros 229Fourni islands 396-7Halikia 293Halki 324-5Hania 284Ikaria 391Ios 210Iraklia 196Iraklio 259Kambos Beach 375-6Kasos 332Kathisma 491, 382-3Kea (Tzia) 245Kos 352Koufonisia 198Lipsi 379Livadi Beach 359Mandraki Beach 343Milos 233Mykonos 173Myrina 431Naoussa 182Naxos 192Neapoli Beach 422Pahia Ammos 293Patmos 376Poros 137Preveli Beach 13,

279-80, 13Psara 416Psili Ammos 405Rhodes 319, 320, 321Samos 405Samothraki 438Santorini (Thira) 220Serifos 241Shipwreck Beach 506-7Skiathos 455Skopelos 460Thasos 443Triopetra 280Vaï 302

Benitses 482bicycling, see cyclingbirds 385, 547, 385birdwatching

Panagia Islet 441Skala Kallonis 424, 425Tilos 340

boat travel 38-9, 560, 561-4, 562-3, see also boat trips, cruising, island hopping, sailing & yachting

boat trips, see also boat travel, cruising, island hopping

Alonnisos 463Corfu 478Diafani 329Fry 331Ithaki 501Kastellorizo 333Naoussa 182Skiathos 453Skopelos 457

books 218, 514, 537-8cooking 545history 519, 521, 523,

524, 528, 534plants 545

border crossings 560Bouboulina, Laskarina 521Boukari 482bouzoukia 110budget 17, 33-4bus travel 564-5, 567business hours 552Byron, Lord 522Byzantine museums 78-9

Byzantine & Christian Museum (Athens) 87

Byzantine Museum (Chios) 409

Byzantine Museum (Mytilini) 419

Byzantine Museum (Zakynthos) 505

Byzantine & Post-Byzantine Collection 281

Ecclesiastical (Byzantine) Museum (Samos) 401

Museum of Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Art on Kythira 512

Ccamping 550-1Cape Prasonisi 321-2Cape Sounion 125-6

car travel 565-6Carnivale 247, 246-7castles, see also fortresses

Agios Georgios Kastro 497

Byzantine-Genoese Castle 422

Castle of Faraklos 319Castle of Lykourgos

Logothetis 403Castle of Myrina 430Castle of the Knights

348Gardiki Castle 483Kastro (Astypalea) 358Kastro (Kythira) 509Knights of St John

Castle 325Kritinia Castle 322Pandeli Castle 368

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

cavesBlue Caves 506Cave of Antiparos 184Cave of Philoctetes 432Cave of Sykia Olymbi 414Cave of the Sacred Icon

of Agios Giannis 196Cave of Zeus 192Dikteon Cave 305Ideon Cave 278Matala ‘hippie’ caves 271Pelekita Cave 302

cell phones 16, 556children, travel with 49-51,

259Chios 407-14, 407, 37Chios Town 409, 410churches & cathedrals

Agia Irini Church 393Agios Nikolaos

Rangavas 81Agios Spyridon Church

273Athens Cathedral 77Chapel of Theoskepasti

392Church of Agii

Theodori 83Church of Agios Nikolaos

281Church of Agios

Spyridon 475Church of Agios

Therapon 419Church of Agios Titos

259Church of Dionysios 505Church of Kapnikarea 77

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

57 7IN

DEX C

-G Church of Panagia

Evangelistria 157Church of Panagia Kera

299Church of Sotira

Lykodimou 81Church of the Holy

Apostles 76, 79, 78Church of the Panagia

Vrefokratousa 427Churches of the

Taxiarhes 413Kimisis Tis Theotokou

Cathedral 139Little Metropolis (Church

of Agios Eleftherios) 77, 79, 79

Metamorfosis Sotiros chapel 406

Paleohora 133Panagia Drosiani 193Panagia

Ekatontapyliani 178Panagia Glykofilousa 424Panagia Paraportiani 168

cinema 514, 523, 537climate 16, 22-4, see

also individual regionsclothing 18coffee 41Colossus of Rhodes 311consulates 553Corfu 14, 472-84, 473,

14, 29Corfu Town 14, 475-80,

476-7, 14courses, see also individual

locationsart 457cooking 41language 92

credit cards 555Crete 11, 53, 250-305,

252-3, 26accommodation 250climate 250food 250highlights 252history 251

cruising 31-4, see also boat travel, boat trips, island hopping, sailing & yachting

culture 248-9, 532-5, 248-9

ancient Greece 528-31customs regulations 552Cyclades 9, 53, 148-245,

149, 8-9accommodation 148climate 148

food 148highlights 149history 150-1

Cycladic civilisation 516cycling 47-8, 561Cyprus 524

Ddance 540dangers, see safetyDelos 174-6, 175Diafani 329-30Diakofti 512Diapondia Islands 481Dimosari Gorge 451-2Dipotamata Gorge 155disabilities, travellers

with 557diving 45

Alonnisos 463Antiparos 184Athens 91Chios 413Corfu 481Fiskardo 499Hania 284Hora Sfakion 291Ios 208Kalymnos 362Lefkada 491Milos 234Mykonos 174Paros 183Pythagorio 403Rethymno 273Rhodes 315Skiasthos 456Thasos 441

Dodecanese 53, 306-81, 307

accommodation 306food 306highlights 307history 308-9

dolphins 547-8Donousa 200-1Doukades 483driving, see car travelDryopida 243Durrell, Gerald 480Durrell, Lawrence 480DVDs 555

EEaster 535, see also

individual locationseconomy 514-15, 527, 532-3Eftalou Beach 424

Elafonisi 295electricity 552Elefsina 127Eleonora’s falcon 385, 385Elounda 298-9embassies 553Emborios 323-4, 345-6,

365-6emergencies 17

language 570-1Englouvi 492environmental issues

515, 548Eretria 447Ermoupoli 162-5, 163etiquette 19, 42Evdilos 392-3events, see festivals &

eventsEvia 54, 444-69, 446-52,

445accommodation 444climate 444food 444highlights 445

exchange rates 17Exogi 502

FFalasarna 288-9Faros 238, 391ferries, see boat travelfestivals & events 22-4,

246-7, 246-7, see also individual locations

film 514, 523, 537Filoti 192Finiki 328Fira 213-18, 214Fiskardo 499-500flora 545-6Folegandros 225-9, 227folklore museums

Folklore Museum (Aegina) 131

Folklore Museum (Agios Georgios) 305

Folklore Museum (Kymi) 448

Folklore Museum (Menetes) 327

Folklore Museum (Skopelos) 457

Folklore Museum of the Northern Sporades 461

Historical & Folk Art Museum (Rethymnos) 273

Historic & Folklore Museum (Leros) 370

Korais Library & Argentis Folkloric Museum 409

Korgialenio History & Folklore Museum 495

Manos Faltaïts Folk Museum 466

Milos Folk & History Museum 232

Museum of History & Folk Art (Limni) 449

Mykonos Folklore Museum 168

Nautical & Folklore Museum (Gialos) 336

Nautical & Folklore Museum (Kalymnos) 362

Fonias River 438food 19, 20-1, 40-4

children, catering for 43, 50

festivals 40glossary 570language 569-70

forests 383fortresses, see also castles

Castello Rosso 451Fortezza (Rethymno) 272Fortress (Mytilini) 419Fortress of Agia Mavra

489Kales Fortress 303Kastro 232Kazarma 301Koules Venetian Fortress

259Neo Frourio 475Palaio Frourio 475Spinalonga Fortress 299Venetian Fortress

(Andros) 154Fourni islands 388-90,

396-8, 388Frangokastello 289Frikes 502Fry 331-2

GGaïos 485-6Galissas 165galleries 20, see also

museumsArt Space 220Athens 94Citronne 136Collection of Post-

Byzantine Icons 489Cultural Foundation of

Tinos 157Fish & Olive 193

578

IND

EX G-L

galleries continuedModern Greek Art

Museum 313Municipal Art Gallery

(Hania) 284Municipal Art Gallery

(Iraklio) 259Museum of

Contemporary Art 153-4

Museum of Contemporary Art (Rethymno) 273

National Sculpture Gallery 90

Phos Gallery 193Teriade Museum 419Theophilos Museum 419

gardens, see parks & gardens

Gavdos 294Gavrio 152-3gay travellers 553

Athens 109Mykonos 172

Gennadi 321geography 545geology 545Gialos 335-8Glossa 459-60golden jackal 546-7gorges 383Gortyna 271Gournia 300Gramvousa Peninsula 288Greek alphabet 569Greek language 568-72‘Grexit’ 527, see also

economy, politics

HHadrian’s Arch 75Halki (Dodecanese) 323-5Halki (Naxos) 193Halkida 446-7hammams 81Hania 14, 281-7, 282-3, 14health 553-4Hellenic Festival 23, 94-5Hephaistia 433Heraion 404Herodotus 519hiking 20, 46-7

Adnros 155Corfu 481

Crete 284Diafani 329Fourni islands 396Ghria Vathra Canyon 437Ikaria 392Imbros Gorge 289Iraklio 260Ithaki 501Kalymnos 364Mt Ypsario 443Nisyros 345Paros 179Psara 416Samaria Gorge 290Santorini (Thira) 215Sifnos 236Skiathos 456southern Evia 451Steni 448Tilos 340

history 516-27ancient civilisations

516-17Archaic age 517-18Byzantine era 519classical age 518financial crisis 525-7geometric age 517-18Independence 520Ottoman era 519-20Roman era 518-19WWI 522WWII 522-3

hitching 566-7holidays 555-6Homer 517Hora (Amorgos) 203-4Hora (Andros) 153-4Hora (Astypalea) 358-9Hora (Folegandros) 227-8Hora (Ios) 207-10Hora (Kythira) 509-10Hora (Kythnos) 242-3Hora (Mykonos) 168-73,

170Hora (Naxos) 187-92, 188Hora (Patmos) 374-5Hora (Samothraki) 436Hora (Serifos) 240-1Hora (Tinos) 157-8Hora Sfakion 289-92horse riding

Corfu 481Hydra 139Kefallonia 495Naoussa 182Naxos 189

horses 385, 469, 384-5

horta 249, 249Hristos Rahes 393-4Hydra 12, 137-43, 138, 12Hydra Town 138-42, 140

IIalysos 322Ierapetra 303-4Ikaria 388-98, 388Imbros Gorge 289immigration 559Inousses 414-15insurance 554, 565, 566internet access 554internet resources 17

children, travel with 51government travel

advisories 554history 518

Ionian Islands 54, 470-512, 471

accommodation 470climate 470food 470highlights 471

Ios 206-10, 206Ioulida 244-5Iraklia 196-7Iraklio 255-63, 256-7Ireon 404island hopping 35-9, 150,

see also boat travel, boat trips, cruising

Ithaki 500-3, 494itineraries 25-30, 25, 27,

28, 30

Kkafenaio 249, 248-9Kalamakia 464Kalami 481Kalamitsa 468-9Kalymnos 360-6, 361Kalyviani 288Kamares 235-6Kamari (Kos) 356Kamari (Santorini) 219,

220Kamariotissa 435-6Kambia 412Kambos (Ikaria) 393Kambos (Timos) 159Kamini 143Kamiros 322Kapodistrias, Ioannis 520Kapsali 510-11Karavostamo 395-6Karavostasis 226-7

Kardamyla 412Kardiani 159Karlovasi 405-6Karpathos 325-30, 326, 24Karya 492Karystos 450-1Kasos 330-2, 330Kassiopi 481Kastellorizo 332-4Kastellorizo Village 332-4Kastro (Sifnos) 237-8Kastro (Sikinos) 224-5Katapola 202-3Kathisma 491, 382-3Kato Zakros 302-3Kattavia 321Kea (Tzia) 243-5, 244Kefallonia 493-500,

494, 37Kefalos 356Kendros 200Keri 506Kiliomeno 506Kimolos 234Kini Beach 165Kioni 503Kionia 158Kissamos (Kastelli) 287-8kitesurfing 46kitron 194Klima 233Knossos 13, 263-7, 263, 13,

264-5Kokkari 405Kondouros 245Kontias 432Korissia 243-4Kos 346-56, 348Kos Town 347-52, 350Koufonisia 198-200kri-kri 385, 384Krithoni 370-1Kritsa 299Krokos 159Ktikados 159Kymi 448Kythira 507-12, 508Kythnos 241-3, 241

LLakka 486-7Lakki 369-70Lakones 483Langada (Amorgos) 205Langada (Chios) 412language 19, 568-72

courses 92Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

579IN

DEX L-M

Lasithi Plateau 304-5Lato 300Lavrio 122Lefkada (Ikaria) 391 Lefkada (Ionian Islands)

487-92, 488Lefkada Town 489-90Lefkes 183Lefkimmi 482Lefkos 328legal matters 554Leros 366-71, 367lesbian travellers 553

Athens 109Skala Eressou 426

Lesvos (Mytilini) 14, 417-29, 418, 14, 26

Lesvos Petrified Forest 425Limenaria 441Limenas Mesta 414Limni 449-50Limnia 412Limnos 429-33, 430Lindos 319-21Lionas 195Lipsi 376-9, 378Lipsi Village 377-9literature 537-8, see also

booksLivadi (Astypalea) 359Livadi (Donousa) 200Livadi (Serifos) 239-40Livadia 340-1loggerhead turtles 385,

547, 384Loggos 486, 29Louha 506Loutra (Kythos) 243Loutra Edipsou 448-9Loutra (Therma) 437-8Loutraki 459-60Loutro 292

MMagazia (Paxi) 486Magazia (Skyros) 468Malia 267Mandraki (Hydra) 143Mandraki (Nisyros) 342-4Manolates 405Mantamados 422maps 554Marathi 380Marathon 126-7Marathounda 338Maries 441maritime museums

Aegean Maritime Museum 168

Hellenic Maritime Museum 118

Maritime Museum of Crete 281

Maritime Museum (Oia) 218

Nautical & Folklore Museum (Gialos) 336

Nautical & Folklore Museums (Kalymnos) 362

Nautical Museum of Inousses 414

Marmaro 412Masouri 363-5Mastihari 353-6Mastihohoria 412Matala 271-2measures 555Megali Petra 491Megalohori 219Megalo Horio

(Agathonisi) 381Megalo Horio

(Tilos) 341Meganisi 492-3Melanes 194Melinda 428Menetes 327Merihas 242Mersini 200Mesta 412-14Milos 8, 229-34, 229, 8-9Minoan civilisation 516-17,

541Minoan sites 267mobile phones 16, 556Mohlos 300Molos 468Molyvos (Mithymna) 422-4monasteries & convents

Convent of Galataki 449Holy Monastery of

Zoodohos Pigi 375Kythira 512Monastery of Kimisis

Theotokou 416Monastery of St John the

Theologian 374Monastery of the

Apocalypse 374-5Moni Agias Efpraxias 143Moni Agiou Gerasimou

497Moni Arhangelou 443Moni Arkadiou 276Moni Chrysopigi 238Moni Dafniou 79, 78Moni Episkopis 224Moni Evangelistrias

(Skiathos) 455

Moni Evangelistrias (Skopelos) 460

Moni Faneromenis 489Moni Hozoviotissis 204Moni Kaisarianis

79, 78-9Moni Kalamiotissas 223Moni Panagias

Kounistras 455-6Moni Panagias Spilianis

343, 403Moni Preveli 279Moni Profiti Ilia 143Moni Taxiarhon 422Moni Taxiarhou Mihail

Panormiti 338Moni Theotokou 483Moni Toplou 302Moni Zoödohou Pigis 137Nea Moni 411

money 16, 17, 19, 552, 554-5

Moni Arkadiou 276-7Moni Hozoviotissis 204Moni Toplou 302monk seals 385, 463, 547Monolithos 322mosques

Mosque of Suleyman 313Neratzes Mosque 273Yeni Tzami 419

Moudros 432Mt Ohi 451Mt Parnitha National

Park 126Mt Psiloritis 278museums 20, see also

archaeological museums, Byzantine museums, folklore museums, maritime museums

Acropolis Museum 73-4Antivouniotissa Museum

475Bakratsa Mansion

Museum 457Bath House of the

Winds 81Benaki Museum 86Benaki Museum Pireos

Annexe 83Bouboulina’s Museum 145Byzantine & Christian

Museum 87Centre of Folk Art &

Tradition 74Christos Capralos

Museum 133Citrus Memories

Museum 411

Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum 187

Ecclesiastical Museum of Milos 231

Eggares Olive Press 194Epigraphical Museum 74Focas-Kosmetatos

Foundation 495Giustiniani Palace

Museum 409Herakleidon Museum 83Historical Archives

Museum of Hydra 139Historical Museum of

Crete 259Industrial Museum of

Ermoupoli 162Jewish Museum 81Jewish Synagogue

Museum 313Kanellopoulos

Museum 81Megaro Gyzi Museum 214Milos Mining Museum

231Mineralogical Museum

122Mitropolis Museum 189Museum House of

Yannoulis Halepas 159Museum of Cretan

Ethnology 272Museum of Cycladic

Art 86-7Museum of Decorative

Arts 313Museum of Greek

Gastronomy 84, 86Museum of Greek

Popular Instruments 74

Museum of Industrial Olive Oil Production 423

Museum of Islamic Art 84

Museum of Marble Crafts 159

Museum of Prehistoric Thera 213-14

Museum of Samos Wines 401

Museum of Solomos 505Museum of the Memorial

of the Refugees of 1922 422

National Historical Museum 83

National Museum of Contemporary Art 75

Natural History Museum of the Lesvos Petrified Forest 425

580

IND

EX M-S

museums continuedPapadiamanti House

Museum 453Santozeum 214Spetses Museum 145Vrana Olive-Press

Museum 423Vrisa Natural History

Museum 428War Museum 369-70

music 538-40bouzoukia 110festivals 95, 389rembetika 539

Mykonos 165-74, 166, 2Mylopotas 207-10Myrina 430-2Myrties 363-5Myrtos 304mythology 451, 529,

530, 531Mytilini Town 419-22, 420

Nname days 247, 247Nanou 338Naoussa 182-3Nas 394National Archaeological

Museum 84, 85national parks & reserves

546Mt Parnitha National

Park 126National Marine Park of

Alonnisos Northern Sporades 461-2

Naxos 185-95, 185, 48Nea Kameni 222newspapers 555Nikea 346Nimborios 338Nisyros 342-6, 343northeastern Aegean is-

lands 53, 386-443, 387accommodation 386climate 386food 386highlights 387

Nydri 490

OOia 218-19, 9, 24Old Alonnisos 464olives 423

Olymbi 414Olymbos 15, 329, 15Olympic games 62opening hours 552Ormos 207-10Ormos Marathokambou

405Otzias 245ouzo 43

Ppalaces, see also

archaeological sites, castles

Achillion Palace 482Palace of St Michael &

St George 475Palace of the Grand

Master 312Palamari 469Paleohora 293-5Paleokastritsa 483Paleopoli (Andros) 155Paleopoli (Kythira) 512Pali 346Palia Kameni 222Paliki Peninsula 498Panagia 442Pandeli 369Panormitis 338Panormos 159Papandreou, Andreas

524, 525Papandreou, Georgios 523Paralia Kymis 448Parikia 177-81, 180parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Areopagus Hill 75Filopappou Hill 74-5Hill of the Pnyx 75National Gardens 82Zappeio Gardens 82

Paros 176-84, 178-9Parthenon 67-9passports 559Patitiri 461-4Patmos 10, 371-6, 372, 2Paxi 484-7, 485, 29Peania 127Pedi 338Pefkoulia 491Pelekas 483Perdika 133-4Pericles 518Perissa 219, 220, 222Petra 424Phaestos 267

philosophers 528-9phonecards 556photography 555Pigadia 325-7Piraeus 118-21, 119Plaka 232-3Plakias 278-9planning 18-19

budgeting 17calendar of events

22-4children, travel

with 49-51cruising 31-4Greece basics 16-17Greece’s regions 52-4internet resources 17island hopping 35-9itineraries 25-30, 25, 27,

28, 30outdoor activities 45-8travel seasons 16, 22-4

plants 545-6Platanos 368-9Plato 528Platys Gialos 238Poles 245Poliohni 432politics 514-15, 527Pollonia 233Polyrrinia 288population 515Poros 135-7, 135Poros Town 136-7Porto Katsiki 491Posidonia 165postal services 555Potamos 511, 512Pothia 362-3Preveli Beach 13,

279-80, 13Psara 415-17Pserimos 356Psili Ammos 405Psyhro 305public holidays 555-6Pyli 353Pyrgi 412Pyrgos 159, 219, 405Pythagoras 398Pythagorio 402-4

RRafina 121-2religion 515, 534-5rembetika 539reserves, see national

parks & reserves

Rethymno 272-6, 274, 268-9

Rhodes 10, 309-23, 308, 10

Rhodes Town 311-19, 312, 314-15

Rina 366rock climbing 364Roman sites, see also

archaeological sites, temples & sanctuaries, tombs

Hadrian’s Arch 75Hadrian’s Library 77Roman Agora 77Roman baths 82-3

Rousoum Gialos 464

Ssafety 50, 114, 556sailing & yachting 32Samaria Gorge 11, 290, 11,

21, 383Sami 498-9Samos 398-406, 400Samothraki 434-8, 435,

382San Michalis 165Sanctuary of the Great

Gods 436-7Sangri 193Santorini (Thira) 9, 210-22,

211, 5, 9Sappho 425, 427Sarakiniko 233Saronic Gulf Islands 52,

128-47, 129-30accommodation 128climate 128food 128highlights 129

scams, see safetySchinousa 197-8sculpture 529seals 385Serifos 238-9, 240Siana 322Sifnos 234-8, 237Sigri 425Sikinos 224-5, 225Sitia 300-2Skala (Angistri) 134Skala (Astypalea) 358-9Skala (Patmos) 372-4Skala Eresou 425-7, 26Skala Kallonis 425Skala Kamirou 322Skala Marion 441Skala Polyhnitou 429

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

581IN

DEX S

-Z Skala Prinou 441Skiathos 452-6, 453Skiathos Town 453-5Skopelos 456-60, 458Skopelos Town 457-9Skyrian horses 469Skyros 15, 465-9, 466, 15Skyros Town 465-7Small Cyclades 195-201, 195smoking 556snorkelling 45, see

also diving & snorkelling

Socrates 528Sougia 292-3Spartohori 492Spartylas 480Spetses 143-7, 144Spetses Town 145-7Spili 278, 268Spinalonga Island 299, 268Sporades 54, 444-69, 452-

69, 445accommodation 444climate 444food 444highlights 445

Stavros 200, 502Steni 447-8Steni Vala 464Strinylas 480surfing 46Symi 334-8, 335synagogues

Etz Hayyim Synagogue 284

Kahal Shalom Synagogue 313

Syros 160-5, 161

TTarabados 159taxis 567

Telendos 365telephone services 16, 556temples & sanctuaries,

see also archaeological sites, Roman sites, tombs

Parthenon 67-9Sanctuaries of the

Foreign Gods 176Sanctuary of Artemis 127Sanctuary of the

Kabeiroi 432Temple of Aphaia 133Temple of Apollo

(Aegina) 131Temple of Apollo

(Naxos) 187Temple of Athena

Nike 67Temple of Demeter 193Temple of Olympian

Zeus 75Temple of Poseidon

(Cape Sounion) 125-6Temple of Poseidon

(Poros) 137Thasos 438-43, 439, 382Thasos (Limenas) 440theatre 528

festivals 95, 389Theologos 441Therma 391Thirasia 222Tholaria 205Tilos 338-42, 339time 16, 556Tinos 155-9, 156tipping 19, 34, 555toilets 556-7tombs

Lycian tomb 333Marathon Battlefield &

Tomb 126Mausoleum of

Inousses 415

tourist information 557tours 567, see also

individual locationsTragaea 192train travel 560, 567travel to/from Greece

559-60travel within Greece 561-7trekking, see hikingTriopetra 280Tris Boukes Bay 469Trypiti 232-3Tsipras, Alexis 527Turkey, travel to/from 399turtles 385, 547, 384Tzermiado 305

VVaï 302Vari Bay 165Vasiliki 490-1Vasilikos Peninsula 506Vatera 428-9Vathy (Ithaki) 501-2Vathy (Samos) 400-2, 402Vathy (Sifnos) 238Vathys 366vegetarians 43visas 16, 557visual arts 536Vlyhos 143volcanoes

Nisyros 345Santorini (Thira) 210-22

Volimes 506Volissos 412volunteering 558Votsalakia 405Votsi 464Vourliotes 405Vourvoulos 219Vravrona 127Vromolithos 369

Vrontados 411Vroukounda 329

Wwalking tours 92, 92water 554waterskiing 46weather 16, 22-4, see also

individual regionswebsites, see internet

resourcesweights 555wild boars 547wildflowers 545-6wildlife 546-8windsurfing 46, 48wine 44

Iraklio Wine Country 270Kefallonia 497Santorini (Thira) 221

women travellers 557work 557-8

XXirokambos 370Xylokeriza 147Xylouris, Nikos 277

Yyachting 32

ZZakros 302-3Zakros Gorge 302Zakynthos 503-7, 504Zakynthos Town 505-6Zaros 270-1Zia 353

582

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/S-train/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

Tube station

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

Greg Ward Dodecanese Having first visited Greece as an InterRailing teenager, Greg Ward (www.gregward.info) has been returning ever since, and honeymooned on Symi. He has written books and articles about the Greek islands for many publishers and newspapers.

Richard Waters Ionian Islands Richard is an award-winning journalist and writes about Greece for the Daily Telegraph, the Independent and Sunday Times Travel Magazine. He lives with his family in the Cotswolds but his spiritual home is in the islands of Greece where he first went as a boy in 1974. Since then he has been more than 20 times, and is most at home sat in a kafenio talking about myths, digging into freshly caught calamari and island hopping. As ever his admiration goes out to the people

of Greece who, despite unimaginably difficult times, remain among the friendliest on the planet.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9839th edition – Mar 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 860 0© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Korina Miller Coordinating Author, Crete Korina first ventured to Greece as a backpacking teenager, sleeping on ferry decks and hiking in the mountains. Since then, she’s found herself drawn back to soak up the timelessness of the old towns and drink coffee with locals in seaside kafeneio. Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been exploring the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies

and an MA in Migration Studies en route. Korina has written nearly 40 titles for Lonely Planet and also works as a children’s writing coach. Korina also wrote Plan Your Trip, Understand Greek Islands (except for Ancient Greek Culture) and Survival Guide.

Alexis AverbuckAthens & Around, Crete, Saronic Gulf Islands Alexis lives in Hydra, takes regular reverse R&R in Athens, and makes any excuse she can to travel the isolated back roads of her adopted land. She is committed to dispelling the stereotype that Greece is simply a string of sandy beaches. A travel writer for two decades, Alex-is has lived in Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat and written books on her journeys through Asia and the Americas. She’s also a painter –

visit www.alexisaverbuck.com.

Carolyn BainCyclades Melbourne-born Carolyn worked on her first guidebook for Lonely Planet back in 2000, and it involved some serious island-hopping around Greece. There began two addictions: writing guidebooks, and the Greek islands. Fifteen years later, this trip fed those addictions over a glorious two-month stint, in which Carolyn visited all the Cyclades. She has now visited 50 Greek islands –

and has way too many favourites. Read more at carolynbain.com.au.

Michael Stamatios ClarkNortheastern Aegean Islands, Evia & the Sporades Michael’s Greek roots go back to the village of Karavostamo on the Aegean island of Ikaria, home of his maternal grandparents who emigrated to America. His first trip to Greece was as a deckhand aboard a Greek freighter, trading English lessons for Greek over wine and backgammon. Since then, he has become a Greek citizen, visits the islands often and enjoys rembetika and retsina. He has also worked on Lonely Planet

guides to Burma (Myanmar), New York and Hawaii.

OUR WRITERS

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Read more about Alexis at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/alexisaverbuck

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