504

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Thomas Allen, Steven Aspland B Don Beer, Leon Boelens, Pierre Brouillet, Joe Bryant C James Chance, Arthur Clement De Givry, Judy Comont D Matthew Dearden, Kieran Drake, Paul-Noël Dumont F Sara FrauG Bas Geelen, Ask Gudmundsen H MargaretHawthorn, PJ Henry, Miriam Herzfeld, Allan Hubble, Aaron Hurd J Martin Jaeckel, Nathan Jones, Martin Jung K Wolfgang Keller, David Kerkhoff, Tyler Keys, Hans-Werner Kopp, Mar-tin Král, Aleksandra Krukar L Eric-Jan Lens, Fabian Liechti M Richard Mallett, Helena Moon, Martijn Munneke N Arihe (Eric) Nee-mann, Pascal Noel P Nina Plumbe, Jo Py-croft R Jacqueline Ripart, Steve Rogowski, Michal Rudziecki S Martina Schroeter, Tanya Semyonova, Roberto Spanghero T Frank Techel V Marinus Vissers W Stefan Wieser, Barry Wilkinson, Kathleen Williams, Sabine Wissel, Barbara Wolfke, Sebastian Wolking, Stephen Wong Y Robert Young

AUTHOR THANKS Bradley MayhewThanks to stalwart co-authors Tom, John, Mark and our anonymous Turkmenistan author. Hard to find a more dedicated and professional bunch of Central Asian travel enthusiasts. Thanks to the much-missed Suzannah Shwer for getting this title up and running one more time.

Mark ElliottA giant rakhmat to Umar Isakov, Anna Keil, Ervin Bartis and family, Janice Setser, Zhandiya Zoolshooeva, Christophe and Nicole, Ed Hewitt, Chris Mathis, Andrew Tucker-Peake, Alick Warburton, Jop Weterings, Phil Riddle, Robin Ord-Smith, Zafar in Penjikent, Will Cooper, Sang Wang, Clement Meynier, Aspia, Flora Renner, the Pamir Lodge crew, Lola, Murat and friends, Aleema Shivji, Taalai and family in Karakol, the memory of Wil Klass. Back home, a mil-lion thanks to ‘the Kids’ for endless support, tea and medals. And to Harriet for waiting and sharing.

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES505

Tom MastersBig thanks to my team of fellow authors: Bradley Mayhew, Mark Elliott, John Noble and Turkmenistan’s anonymous author for all their help and intelligence sharing. Thanks also to Janine and the entire in-house team at LPHQ in Melbourne (you shall all be missed!). On the road, a huge debt of gratitude to my intrepid and im-mensely patient mother, who negotiated the deserts of Uzbekistan with me with hardly a complaint at the complete lack of caffeine and wireless, and who dutifully slogged around towns with me all day visiting various hotels, medressas and museums. Big thanks also to the team at Advantour in Tashkent, particularly Murod and Feruza; to David Berghof at Stantours; to Dowlet and Sasha in Samarkand; Gulnara and Hamid in Bukhara; Hannelore Bendsen in Khiva and the crew at the Jipek Joli in Nukus, especially Era and Aijamal.

John NobleA project like this is quite impossible without willing help from a whole lot of people. Extra special thanks to Robert and Assely Manson, David Berghof, Svetlana Baskakova, Serik Dyusenbaev, Alikhan and Askar Abdeshev, Vitaly Shuptar, Dagmar Schreiber, Karlygash Makatova, Alexander Petrov, Andrey Yurch-enkov, Ali Hudabardy Tash (Kashgar Tourism International, China), Zhamilya Zhukenova, and my fellow authors Bradley, Mark, Tom and the Turkmenistan author.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate maps data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44.Cover photograph: Char Minar, Bukhara,Uzbekistan. Michele Falzone/Corbis ©

THIS BOOK This 6th edition of Lonely Planet’s Central Asia guidebook was researched and written by Bradley Mayhew, Mark Elliott, Tom Masters, John Noble and an anonymous author for Turkmenistan. This guide-book was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Suzannah Shwer

Coordinating Editors Lauren Hunt, Amanda WilliamsonSenior Cartographer David KempBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepManaging Editors Sasha Baskett, Brigitte EllemorSenior Editor Karyn NobleAssisting Editors Paul Harding, Gabrielle Innes, Kate Kiely, Alan MurphyAssisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Mick Garrett, James Leversha

Cover Research Naomi ParkerLanguage Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Anita Banh, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Errol Hunt, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Valentina Kremenchutskaya, Anne Mason, Catherine Naghten, Chad Parkhill, Trent Paton. Martine Power, Dianne Schall-meiner, Luna Soo, John Taufa, Angela Tinson

506

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

4WDs 45-6, 48, 313, 368, 486

Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95Pamires, the 338-9Wakhan Valley 350

Aaccommodation 462-3, see

also individual locationsAchik-Tash (Kyr) 297activities 24-5, 40-6, see

also individual locationsbird watching 46, 73, 85,

86, 107, 126, 186, 258camel trekking 43, 186-7,

202-3, 221, 363heli-skiing 45, 159, 305horse racing 61, 83,

306, 382horse riding 43, 87, 114,

124, 186, 257, 274, 304, 324-5, 377

ice skating 71-2mountain biking 43-4, 72,

263, 287mountaineering 44-5, 77,

78, 251, 263-4, 287, 297, 305, 329, 363

nut harvesting 287 rafting 44, 114, 159, 233,

305rock climbing 44-5, 251,

297, 305sailing 93, 255snow sports 45, 71-2, 159,

267, 287, 305, 326

trekking 14, 15, 20-1, 74-5, 77, 78, 111, 114, 158-9, 251, 266-7, 268-9, 272-3, 273-5, 282, 287, 305, 317, 325, 327, 363, 7, 14, 15

wildlife watching 85, 86Afghan Wakhan (Taj)

352, 367 Afghanistan

border crossings 226, 348, 352, 367, 404-5

relations with 428-9 visas to 224, 308, 352,

366, 403Afrosiab (Uz) 174-5Aga Khan 361airlines 479-80, see also

individual locationsairports 478-9, see also

individual locationsair travel 478-82, 485-6,

see also individual locations

Ak-Baital (White Horse) Pass (Taj) 356

Akhal-Teke horses 377, 399-400, 457

Ak-Saray Palace (Uz) 181-2Ak-Suu (Kyr) 297Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature

Reserve (Kaz) 85-6, 126Aktau (Kaz) 93-6, 94Aktobe (Kaz) 135Akyrtas (Kaz) 81Ala-Archa Canyon

(Kyr) 250-2Alaudin Lakes (Taj) 329Alay Valley (Kyr) 296-7Alexander the Great 411-12Almaty (Kaz) 16, 56-71,

58-9, 5, 16accommodation 62-4activities 60-1drinking & nightlife 65-6entertainment 66festivals & events 61-2food 64-5

history 56information 67-9registration 68shopping 66-7sights 56-60tours 61, 68-9travel to/from 69-70travel within 70-1

Altay Mountains (Kaz) 23, 111

Altyn-Arashan (Kyr) 265-6Altyn Asyr Market

(Tur) 376-7Altyn-Emel National Park

(Kaz) 78ALZhIR Museum-Memorial

Complex (Kaz) 106amin 474Amir Timur Museum

(Uz) 183amoebic dysentery 493amusement parks,

see also waterparksAstana (Kaz) 98Shymkent (Kaz) 83

ancient Khorezm (Uz) 202ancient Penjikent (Taj) 331-2Andijon (Uz) 168-9Andijon massacre 161,

215-16, 429animal market (Kyr) 258-9Anzob Tunnel (Taj) 326Aral Sea (Kaz) 22, 91-3,

459-60Aral Sea (Uz) 22, 212, 213,

216, 459-60Aralsk (Aral) (Kaz) 91-3archaeological sites 23, 357

Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve petroglyphs (Kaz) 85

Akyrtas (Kaz) 81Altay Mountains (Kaz) 111Altyn-Emel National Park

(Kaz) 78ancient Khorezm 202-3ancient Penjikent (Taj)

331-2

Ark (Uz) 193Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95Burana Tower (Kyr) 252-3Elliq-Qala (Uz) 202-3Erk Kala (Tur) 390Fayoz-Tepe (Uz) 184Gonur Depe (Tur) 391Ice House (Tur) 390Kara-Tepe (Uz) 184Kyz Kala (Tur) 390Maghoki-Attar (Uz) 191Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7Mizdakhan (Uz) 214Otyrar-Tobe (Kaz) 87Sauran (Kaz) 89Shakhty (Taj) 355-6Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97Sherkala (Kaz) 97Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97Sultan Kala (Tur) 390-1Tamgaly petroglyphs

(Kaz) 78Temir Abdal Ata

cave-shrine (Kaz) 97Ulugbek’s Observatory

(Uz) 175architectural sites

Astana (Kaz) 12, 22, 98-99, 102-3, 100-1, 2, 12, 23

Ashgabat (Tur) 374-5Karakol (Kyr) 259Khojand (Taj) 335 Samarkand (Uz) 20, 171-6Turkistan (Kaz) 17, 87-9,

88, 17Uralsk (Oral) (Kaz) 135

architecture 451-4highlights 52, 452Islamic 49, 171-3, 189-95,

205-7. 334, 390-1, 451Silk Road 20Soviet 147, 232

Ark (Uz) 193Arslanbob (Kyr) 286-8arts 446-50, see also

literature, music

ABBREVIATIONSKaz KazakhstanKyr KyrgyzstanTaj TajikistanTur TurkmenistanUz Uzbekistan

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

507IN

DEX A-C

Ashgabat (Tur) 22, 374-84, 376-7, 380

accommodation 378-9activities 377drinking & nightlife 381-2entertainment 382food 379-81history 374information 382-3sights 374-7travel to/from 383-4travel within 384

Asrlar Sadosi Festival 24Astana Day 103Astana (Kaz) 12, 22,

98-106, 100-1, 2, 12, 23

accommodation 103-4drinking & nightlife 105festivals & events 103food 104-5information 105sights 98-9, 102-3tours 103travel to/from 105-6travel within 106

At Chabysh 353At Chabysh Horse

Festival 25ATMs 471Atyrau (Kaz) 134-5Ayni (Taj) 329-30Azerbaijan

border crossings 484visas to 129, 224, 403

BBabur, Zahiruddin 168,

291-2, 418, 419Bactria Centre (Taj) 323Badai-Tugai Biosphere

Reserve (Uz) 202Badakhshani rubies 348bargaining 472-3Barskoön (Kyr) 270-1Bartang Valley (Taj) 342-3bathhouses,

see also springsAlmaty (Kaz) 60-1Altyn-Arashan

(Kyr) 265-6Bishkek (Kyr) 233Bukhara (Uz) 195

Baykonur Cosmodrome (Kaz) 22, 34, 90

bazaars 15, 21, 2, 15Alamedin Bazaar

(Kyr) 244Altyn Asyr Market

(Tur) 376-7Animal Market

(Kyr) 258-9Barakholka (Kaz) 67Bazar Samal (Kaz) 82-3Bukhara (Uz) 191Central (Upper) Bazaar

(Kaz) 81Chorsu Bazaar

(Uz) 146-7Fergana (Uz) 165Green Bazaar (Taj) 317Green Market (Kaz) 59Ishkashim (Taj) 348Istaravshan (Taj) 334Jahon Bazaar (Uz) 168Kumtepa Bazaar

(Uz) 167-8Osh Bazaar

(Kyr) 244, 292Özgön (Kyr) 289Panchshanbe Bazaar

(Taj) 335Shahriston Market

(Uz) 198Shakhristan Market

(Kaz) 80Tezykovka Bazaar

(Uz) 154Urgut (Uz) 181, 4, 21Zelyony (Tur) 387

Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95Belogorka Waterfall

(Kyr) 252beshbarmak 465Bibi-Khanym Mosque

(Uz) 173bird watching 46, 73,

85, 86, 107, 126, 186, 258

Bishkek (Kyr) 232-50, 234-5, 240, 250

accommodation 234-9

activities 233drinking & nightlife

242-3entertainment 243festivals &

events 233-4history 232information 244-6registration 245shopping 244sights 232-3tours 245-6travel to/from 246-9 travel within 249-50visas 245

black market 223, 471Bokonbayevo (Kyr) 272-3

border crossings 35-9, 38-9, 16

Afghan Wakhan (Taj) 352, 367

Afghanistan 226, 367, 404-5

Azerbaijan 484China 132, 296, 310-11,

367-8, 482, 484 Friendship Bridge

(Uz) 226Iran 405, 484 Irkeshtam Route

(Kyr) 310issues 298Kazakhstan 132-3, 226,

311, 406 Kyrgyzstan 132-3, 226,

310-11, 368 Mongolia 133Qolma (Kulma) Pass

(Taj) 367-8Russia 132, 134-5, 482-4Tajikistan 226-7, 295-6,

311, 348, 352, 356, 366-8

Turkmenistan 133, 227, 404-6

Torugart Route (Kyr) 310-11, 284

Uzbekistan 133, 226-7, 311, 368, 406

Western Europe–Western China Highway (Kaz) 134, 482

bride kidnapping 301brucellosis 492budget 19, 53, 138, 229,

313, 371Bukhara (Uz) 11, 187-200,

188-9, 11, 417accommodation 195-7activities 195drinking & nightlife 198festivals & events 195food 197history 187-9information 198-9registration 199shopping 198sights 189-95tours 195travel to/from 199-200travel within 200

Bukhara’s Jews 194Burana Tower

(Kyr) 252-3business hours 19bus travel 482-3, 486buzkashi 306, 440

Ccamel trekking 43, 186-7,

202-3, 221, 363Elliq-Qala (Uz) 202-3Nurata (Uz) 187-8

caravanserais 28, 284-5, 434, 454, 16

carpets & textiles 21, 123, 399, 446-7, 15

customs 153, 400-1workshops 179, 198,

209-10museums 191, 374-5

car travel 482-3, 486-7cell phones 18, 476Central Asia highlights

8-9, 8-9Central State Museum

(Kaz) 56, 67Central Tian Shan (Kaz)

77-8ceramics 168, 179, see

also tilesmuseums 168workshops 179

chabysh 306Char Minar (Uz) 194Charyn Canyon (Kaz) 77Chatyr-Köl (Kyr) 285children, travel with 463-4Chimbulak (Kaz) 71-3China

border crossings 132, 296, 310-11, 367-8, 482, 484

relations with 412, 413, 430

visas to 34, 129, 224, 308, 366

Cholpon-Ata (Kyr) 255-8, 256

Chong Ak-Suu Valley (Kyr) 258

Chong-Kemin Valley (Kyr) 253

climate 18, 24-5, 18Kazakhstan 52Kyrgyzstan 228Tajikistan 312Turkmenistan 370Uzbekistan 137

climate change 480community-based tourism

15, 20, 47-8, 247, 15 see also homestays, yurtstays

Ecotourism Information Resource Centre (EIRC) (Kaz) 68

Kochkor (Kyr) 277-8

508

INDEX C

-H

community-based tourism continued

Kyrgyzstan 228Murgab Ecotourism

Association (META) (Taj) 354

Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biosphere Reserve (Uz) 186

Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism Association (PECTA) (Taj) 47

Wild Nature (Kaz) 86Zerafshan Tourism

Development Association (ZTDA) (Taj) 333

Conolly, Captain Arthur 192consulates, see embassies

& consulatescourses 233, 323, 470craft 447credit cards 471-2culture 22, 435-41Culture Ministry Antiques

Certification Office (Uz) 153

currency 18, see also budget, money, individual locations

customs 464cycling, see mountain

biking

Ddangers, see also health,

safetyKazakhstan 67Kyrgyzstan 244, 305Tajikistan 363-4Turkmenistan 382, 401Uzbekistan 221

Darshai (Taj) 349Darvaza Gas Craters

(Tur) 22, 385Dashogus (Tur) 396Dawn of Freedom

Monument (Kaz) 59-60

documents 125, 464Dolinka (Kaz) 111-12Dostoevsky Museum

(Kaz) 116, 421Dostoevsky, Fyodor

116, 420dragon horses 413drinking 467-8

Dushanbe (Taj) 316-26, 318-19

accommodation 317-20activities 317drinking & nightlife 322entertainment 323food 321-2history 316information 323registration 323shopping 323sights 316-17tours 323travel to/from 323-5 travel within 325-6

Eeconomy 408-9, 430,

see also individual countries

Ecotourism Information Resource Centre (EIRC) (Kaz) 68

electricity 465, 473embassies & consulates

Kazakhstan 124-6Kyrgyzstan 306-7Tajikistan 364-5Turkmenistan 401 Uzbekistan 221-2

emergencies 19, 495-6emergency numbers

Kazakhstan 127Turkmenistan 382 Uzbekistan 154

environment 455-60environmental issues 422,

459-60Aral Sea (Kaz) 92,

459-60Kazkhstan 124Kumtor Gold Mine 303Kyrgyzstan 303nuclear testing 115-16,

118-19, 459Semey (Semipalatinsk)

(Kaz) 116, 118-19Tajikistan 362Turkmenistan 400

Erk Kala (Tur) 390ethnic minorities 439etiquette 469 events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates

Kazakhstan 53Kyrgyzstan 229Tajikistan 313Turkmenistan 371

Uzbekistan 138Expo 2017 (Kaz) 105

FFan Mountains (Taj) 15,

326-33, 328-9, 15 felt rugs 279, 446-7, 15Fergana (Uz) 164-7, 166Fergana Valley (Uz) 160-9,

160festivals & events 24-5,

469, 470buzkashi 440Kazakhstan 126, 127Kyrgyzstan 233-4, 258,

307, 308Turkmenistan 401-2Uzbekistan 176

Fine Arts Museum of Uzbekistan (Uz) 144

Fine Arts Museum, Semey (Kaz) 117

folk art 446food 465-9, 502-3,

see also individual locations

food glossary 502-3fortresses

ancient Khorezm (UZ) 202

Bukhara (Uz) 193Elliq-Qala (Uz) 202-3Hissar (Hisor) Fort

(Taj) 326Hulbuk Fortress-Palace

(Taj) 341Istaravshan (Taj) 334Khaakha Fortress

(Taj) 349Khiva (Uz) 205-6Khojand (Taj) 335Merv (Tur) 390Mizdakhan (Uz) 214Sauran (Kaz) 89Wakhan Valley (Taj) 13,

350, 4Yamchun (Zulkhomar)

Fort (Taj) 349Friendship Bridge (Uz) 226Frunze, Mikhail Vasilievich

232-3

GGAI 482Garm (Taj) 324-5gay travellers 469GBAO permit 339, 366, 367geography 455-6geology 456giardiasis 493

glossary 500-2glossary (food) 502-3Golden Man (Altyn Adam)

62, 103, 411Gonur Depe (Tur) 391Gonur (Tur) 391Gozli Ata (Tur) 386Great Game 359, 422-3Great Horde 121, 416-17,

435Greig’s tulip 85Gur-E-Amir Mausoleum

(Uz) 174Gutlug Timur Minaret

(Tur) 16, 395, 16

HHaft-Kul (Taj) 333health 490-4, see also

dangers, safetyheli-skiing 45, 159, 305hepatitis 492hiking, see trekkingHissar (Hisor) Fort

(Taj) 326history 410-30, see also

individual countriesHistory Museum of the

People of Uzbekistan (Uz) 144

hitching 487HIV 492homestays 15, 20, 50,

462-3, see also community-based tourism, yurtstays

Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve (Kaz) 86

Arslanbob (Kyr) 287-8Jizeu Valley (Kyr) 342-3Kochkor (Kyr) 277Kyrgyzstan 247, 304Naryn (Kyr) 282-3Nuratau-Kyzylkum

Biosphere Reserve (Uz) 186

Pamirs, the (Kyr) 338Penjikent (Taj) 333Sayram-Ugam National

Park (Kaz) 87Tajikistan 312

horse racing 61, 83, 306, 382

horse riding 43, 87, 114, 124, 186, 257, 274, 304, 324-5, 377

horses, see also horse racing, horse riding

Akhal-Teke 377, 399-400domestication 411dragon 413

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

509IN

DEX H-K

festivals 24, 353Przewalski’s horses 123,

263, 458sports 25, 306, 440

Iice skating 71-2Ichon-Qala (Uz) 20, 205IGPA (Issyk-Köl Guides

& Porters Association) 263

Ile-Alatau National Park (Kaz) 73

immigration 478Independence Square

(Tur) 374India 308-9insurance

car 482-3health 490travel 470

internet access 470, see also individual locations

internet resources 19, 53, 127, 138, 229, 313, 371, 408, 490

tours 488train travel 484

Iranborder crossings 405,

484visas to 224, 309, 403

Irkeshtam Pass (Kyr) 310

Isfandiyar Palace (Uz) 207

Isfara (Taj) 337Ishkashim (Taj) 348-9Iskander-Kul (Taj) 326-8Islam 414, 442-5Istaravshan (Taj) 334-5itineraries 26-30, 26-30

Kazakhstan 53Kyrgyzstan 229Tajikistan 313Turkmenistan 371Uzbekistan 138

JJafr (Taj) 325Jalal-Abad (Kyr) 288-9jekai 254Jeti-Öghüz (Kyr) 267-70Jewish quarters

Bukhara (Uz) 194Samarkand (Uz) 175

Jizeu Valley (Taj) 342-3

KKadji-Sai (Kyr) 272-3Kalon Minaret (Uz) 11,

20, 192, 11Karaganda (Karagandy)

(Kaz) 108-11, 109 Karaganda Ecological

Museum (Kaz) 109Karakalpakstan 22, 210-15Karakol (Kyr) 258-64, 260,

266-7accommodation

259-62activities 259drinking & nightlife 262food 262information 262-3shopping 262-3sights 258-9travel to/from 264travel within 264

Karakol Valley (Kyr) 266-7Karakul (Taj) 356Karakum Desert

(Tur) 384-5Karkara Valley (Kaz) 77Karkara Valley (Kyr) 258KarLag Museum

(Kaz) 111-12Kazakhstan 49, 52-136,

54-5, 76accommodation 124activities 124architecture 52arts 123border crossings 132-5,

226, 311, 406climate 52costs 53culture 122customs 124dangers 67drinking & nightlife 127economy 119-20embassies & consulates

124-6environment 123-4exchange rates 53festivals & events

126, 127food 127highlights 54-5history 120-2internet access 127internet resources

53, 127itineraries 53language 496-7money 127

parks & reserves 52peoples 122, 435-6permits 53, 129planning 52-3politics 119-20public holidays 127registration 127-8religion 123safety 128telephone services 127,

128-9tourist information 68travel seasons 52travel to/from 131-3travel within 136visas to 53, 130-1, 224,

309, 403volunteering 131weather 52

Kazakhstan Independence Day 25

Kazarman (Kyr) 282-3Khan, Abylay 107-8Khan, Chinggis (Genghis)

120-1, 397, 416-17, 428Konye-Urgench (Tur)

16, 394 Merv (Tur) 389Otrar (Kaz) 87

Khan Shatyr (Kaz) 98, 12Khan’s Palace (Uz) 161-2Khiva (Uz) 12, 203-10, 204,

2-3, 12, 424accommodation 207-8drinking 208-9entertainment 209food 208-9history 203-4information 210shopping 209-10sights 204-7tours 207travel to/from 210

Khojand (Taj) 335-7, 336Khorezm (Uz) 22,

200-10, 201Khorog (Taj) 343-7, 344Kochkor (Kyr) 276-8, 277Kokand (Uz) 161-4, 162-3Kök-Jaiyk (Kyr) 268-9Kolsay Lakes (Kaz) 76-7Köl-Ükök (Kyr) 278Konye-Urgench (Tur) 16,

393-6, 16Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve

(Kaz) 107Koshoy Korgon (Kyr) 284Köw Ata Underground

Lake (Tur) 385-6

Kuhna Ark (Uz) 205-6, 2-3Kulob (Taj) 341Kumtepa Bazaar (Uz) 167-8Kumtor (Kyr) 270kumys 468Kunanbaev, Abay 117, 120Kurchatov (Kaz) 34, 118-19kurutob 321kymys, see kumys Kyrgyzstan 50, 228-311,

230-1accommodation 228,

304arts 302-3border crossings 132-3,

226, 310-11, 368climate 228community-based

tourism 228, 247, 15costs 229customs 305dangers 244, 305drinking 303-4economics 299embassies & consulates

306-7environment 303exchange rates 229festivals & events 258,

287, 307, 308food 303-4highlights 230-1history 299-301internet access 307internet resources 229itineraries 229language 497money 308peoples 301-2, 436-7permits 34, 229, 308planning 228-9politics 299public holidays 308registration 308religion 302safety 305tourist information 245,

263, 295travel seasons 228travel to/from 309-11travel within 311visas to 129, 224, 229,

308-9, 403weather 228

Kyrgyzstan Independence Day 25

Kyz Kala (Tur) 390kyz-kumay 306Kyzylorda (Kaz) 90-1

510

INDEX L-M

Llabour camps

Dolinka (Kaz) 111-12Malinovka (Kaz) 106

labour camps continuedSpassk (Kaz) 112

laghman 465Lake Burabay (Kaz) 107-8Lake Issyk-Köl

Northern Issyk-Köl 254-70

Southern Issyk-Köl 270-3

lakesAlaudin Lakes (Taj) 329Haft-Kul (Taj) 333Kara-Kul (Taj) 356Kolsay Lakes (Kaz) 76-7Köw Ata Underground

Lake (Tur) 385-6Lake Burabay (Kaz)

107-8Lake Issyk-Köl (Kyr)

253-73Lake Sarez (Taj) 343Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 14,

273-6, 14Ozero Bolshoe Almatin-

skoe (Kaz) 73Lake Sarez (Taj) 343Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 14,

273-6, 14Langar (Taj) 350-1language 495-503

courses 233, 323, 470Pamiri 361

legal matters 470leishmaniasis 492lesbian travellers 469Letters of Invitation 32-3,

367, see also permits, registration, visas

Kazakhstan 130Kyrgyzstan 309Tajikistan 367Turkmenistan 404Uzbekistan 225

literature 408, 413, 447-9, see also individual countries

Lyabi-Hauz (Uz) 189-90

MMadiyan Valley (Taj) 355Maghoki-Attar (Uz) 191

malaria 492Manas Air Base 299Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7maps 471Marco Polo sheep 362, 456Margeb (Taj) 329Margilon (Uz) 167-8markets, see bazaars Mary Regional Museum

(Tur) 386-7Mary (Tur) 386-8, 387mausoleums 453

Abdul-Aziz Baba (Kaz) 85

Abu Bakr Kaffal Shoshi (Uz) 147

Al-Hakim al-Termizi (Uz) 184

Aristan-Bab (Kaz) 87Aysha-Bibi (Kaz) 81Babazha-Khatun

(Kaz) 81Bibi-Khanym

Mausoleum (Uz) 173Chashma Ayub

Mausoleum (Uz) 193Dauitbek (Kaz) 80Dorut Tilyovat (Uz) 182Gozli Ata (Tur) 386Gur-E-Amir Mausoleum

(Uz) 174Il-Arslan (Tur) 395Ishratkhana Mausoleum

(Uz) 175-6Ismail Samani

Mausoleum (Uz) 193Karakhan (Kaz) 80Karashash-Ana (Kaz) 85Khazrati-Imam Complex

(Uz) 182Kokand (Uz) 162Mazor-i-Sharif (Taj) 331Mirali Bobo (Kaz) 85Mohammed ibn Zeid

(Tur) 390Nejameddin Kubra

(Tur) 394Pahlavon Mahmud

Mausoleum (Uz) 207Rabigha-Sultan

Begum (Kaz) 89Sheikh Massal ad-Din

(Taj) 335 Sheikhantaur

Mausoleum Complex (Uz) 139

Sultan Sanjar (Tur) 390Sultan Tekesh (Tur) 395Tomb of the Old

Testament Prophet Daniel (Uz) 174-5

Two Askhab (Tur) 390

Yasaui (Kaz) 88, 17Medeu (Kaz) 71-3media 221, 473medical services 491-2, see

also emergenciesmedressas 453

Abdul Aziz Khan Medressa (Uz) 192

Allakuli Khan Medressa (Uz) 206

Islom-Hoja Medressa (Uz) 207

Kulkedash Medressa (Uz) 147

Mir-i-Arab Medressa (Uz) 192-3

Mohammed Rakhim Khan Medressa (Uz) 206

Nadir Divanbegi Medressa (Uz) 191

Registan (Uz) 171-3, 21Sahib Mian Hazrat

Medressa (Uz) 163Ulugbek Medressa

(Bukhara, Uz) 191, 417Merv (Tur) 388-91minarets 453, see also

mosques Burana Tower

(Kyr) 252-3Gutlug Timur Minaret

(Tur) 16, 395, 16 Kalta Minor (Uz)

206, 2-3Kalon Minaret 11,

20, 192, 11mines

ruby 348gold 270, 303

Mizdakhan (Uz) 214mobile phones 18, 476money 18, 19, 53, 138, 223,

229, 313, 371, 471-3moneychanging 472Mongolia

border crossings 132Mongols 120-1, 299-300,

389, 394, 416-17mosques 452-3, 477, see

also minaretsBeket-Ata (Kaz) 95Bibi-Khanym Mosque

(Uz) 173Central Mosque (Kaz) 60Hazrat-Hizr Mosque

(Uz) 175Hazroti Imom Friday

mosque (Uz) 147Hilvet (Kaz) 89Hoja Zayniddin Mosque

(Uz) 195

Jami Mosque Museum (Uz) 163

Jome Mosque (Uz) 168Juma Mosque, Khiva

(Uz) 206 Juma Mosque, Tashkent

(Uz) 147Kalon Mosque (Uz) 192Maghoki-Attar (Uz) 191Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7Narbutabey Mosque

(Uz) 162Nur Astana Mosque

(Kaz) 99Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97Shopan-Ata (Kaz) 95Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97

mountain biking 43-4, 72, 263, 287

mountaineering 44-5, 77, 78, 251, 263-4, 287, 297, 305, 329, 363

Moynaq (Uz) 214-15Mug Teppe (Taj) 334Muqimi, Mohammedamin

163Murgab Ecotourism

Association (META) (Taj) 354

Murgab (Taj) 353-5Museum of Fine Arts

(Tur) 374museums & galleries

Afrosiab Museum (Uz) 174

Aktau regional museum (Kaz) 93

Amir Timur Museum (Uz) 183

Carpet Museum (Tur) 374-5

Central State Museum (Kaz) 56

Dostoevsky Museum (Kaz) 116, 421

Fayzulla Khojaev House (Uz) 194

Fine Arts Museum of Uzbekistan (Uz) 144

Historical-Cultural-Ethnographic Centre (Kaz) 88

History Museum of the People of Uzbekistan (Uz) 144

Karaganda Ecological Museum (Kaz) 109

Karakol regional museum 259

KarLag Museum (Kaz) 111-12

Kazakh Museum of Folk

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

511IN

DEX M-P

Musical Instruments (Kaz) 57

Kazakhstan History Museum (Kaz) 102

Kazakhstan Museum of Arts (Kaz) 57, 59

Konye-Urgench Museum (Tur) 394

Kyzylorda regional museum (Kaz) 90

Moyie Mubarek Library Museum (Uz) 147

Museum of Applied Arts (Uz) 207

Museum of Carpets (Uz) 191

Museum of Fine Arts (Tur) 374

Museum of the First President (Kaz) 103

Museum of Victims of Political Repression (Kaz) 82

National Museum, Ashgabat (Tur) 375

National Museum, Dushanbe (Taj) 316

National Museum of Antiquities of Tajikistan (Taj) 316

Presidential Cultural Centre (Kaz) 103

Rishton Ceramic Museum (Uz) 168

Rudaki Museum (Taj) 332

Savitsky Museum (Uz) 211-12

Shymkent regional museum (Kaz) 82

State Historical Museum (Kyr) 232

State Museum of Fine Arts (Kyr) 232

Taraz regional museum (Kaz) 79

Termiz Archaeological Museum (Uz) 183-4

music 448, 449

NNamadgut (Taj) 349Naryn (Kyr) 280-2, 281nasvai 465nasvar, see nasvainaswar, see nasvai National Museum,

Ashgabat (Tur) 375National Museum,

Dushanbe (Taj) 316National Museum of

Antiquities of Tajikistan

(Taj) 316National Nuclear Centre

(Kaz) 118national parks & reserves

52, 458, see also parks & gardens

Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve (Kaz) 85-6, 126

Ala-Archa State Nature Park (Kyr) 251-2

Altyn-Emel National Park (Kaz) 78

Badai-Tugai Biosphere Reserve (Uz) 202

Burabay National Nature Park (Kaz) 107-8

Chong-Kemin Valley (Kyr) 253

Ile-Alatau National Park (Kaz) 73

Karakol Valley (Kyr) 266-7

Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve (Kaz) 107

Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biosphere Reserve (Uz) 186

Sayram-Ugam National Park (Kaz) 86-7

Tajik National Park (Taj) 346, 354, 356

Ugam-Chatkal National Park (Uz) 158-60

Zapadno-Altaysky (Western Altay) Nature Reserve (Kaz) 114

natural reources 430Navrus 24, 470Nazarbaev, Nursultan

119-20, 122Niyazov, Saparmyrat

(Turkmenbashi) 398Nodira 164nomadic empire 411nomads 22noz, see nasvainuclear testing 116, 118-19Nukus (Uz) 210-14Nurata (Uz) 186-7 Nuratau-Kyzylkum

Biosphere Reserve (Uz) 186

Oopening hours 19opium 358Osh Bazaar (Kyr) 292Osh (Kyr) 289-96, 290

accommodation 292-3

activities 292drinking 293-4food 293-4history 289, 291information 294-5shopping 294sights 291-2travel to/from 295-6travel within 296

Osman Quran 147, 445Otrar (Kaz) 87Ozero Bolshoe

Almatinskoe Area (Kaz) 73-5

Özgön (Kyr) 289

Ppainting 449-50Pakistan 224Palace of Independence

(Kaz) 99, 102Palace of Peace & Accord

(Kaz) 99Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism

Association (PECTA) (Taj) 47

Pamir Highway (Taj) 17, 351-6, 5, 17

Pamiri people 361Pamirs, the (Taj)

23, 338-56, 340-1Bartang Valley 342-3Khorog 343-7, 344Murgab 353-5Pamir Highway 17, 20

351-6, 5, 17permits 339, 346planning 339registration 346Shokh Dara Valley

347-8travel to/from 338-9travel within 338-9Wakhan Valley (Taj)

13, 348-51, 4, 13parks & gardens, see also

national parks & reserves

Botanical Gardens (Taj) 317

Central (Gorky) Park (Kaz) 60

City Park (Kaz) 98Dubovy (Oak) Park

(Uz) 232Independence Park

(Tur) 375Kok-Tobe (Kaz) 57Levoberezhny Park

(Kaz) 113

Navoi Park (Uz) 147Panfilov Park (Kaz) 57 Park Zhastar (Kaz) 113

photography 473passports 125Peak Lenin (Kyr) 297PECTA (Pamirs Ecotourism

Association Information Centre) 346

Penjikent (Taj) 331-4, 331people 435-41permits 31-4, see

also visas, Letters of Invitation, registration

Kazakhstan 53, 129Kyrgyzstan 229, 305,

308Pamirs, the (Taj) 339,

346Peak Lenin (Kyr) 297Tajikistan 313, 366Tian Shan (Kyr) 272-3,

7, 14trekking 41-2Turkmenistan 371, 403Uzbekistan 138, 224

petroglyphs 411Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature

Reserve (Kaz) 85Cholpon-Ata (Kyr) 256Langar (Taj) 350-1Nurata (Uz) 186Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 283Tamgaly (Kaz) 78

Petropavlovsk (Petropavl) (Kaz) 135

planningactivities 40-6budgeting 18-19calendar of events 24-5Central Asia basics 18-19Central Asia regions

49-50climate 18-19, 18community-based

tourism 47-8, 15internet resources 18-19itineraries 26-30, 48,

26-30Kazakhstan 52-3Kyrgyzstan 228-9Tajikistan 312-13travel seasons 18-19,

24-5Turkmenistan 370-1Uzbekistan 137-8

plov 150, 465police 125politics 408-9, see also

individual countries

512

INDEX P

-T

population 409, see also individual countries

postal services 473Presidential Cultural

Centre (Kaz) 103Przewalski, Nikolai 259,

263Przewalski’s horses 123,

263, 458Pshart Valley (Taj) 355public holidays 469

Kazakhstan 127Kyrgyzstan 308Tajikistan 365Turkmenistan 401-2Uzbekistan 222

QQolma (Kulma) Pass 367-8Quran 442-3, 445qymyz, see kumys

Rrabies 492rafting 44, 114, 159, 233,

305, see also sailingRang-Kul (Taj) 355Rasht Valley (Taj) 324-5Registan (Uz) 20, 171-3registration 473, see

also Letters of Invitation, permits, visas

Ashgabat (Tur) 383Bishkek (Kyr) 245Bukhara (Uz) 199Kazakhstan 68, 127-8Kyrgyzstan 308Pamirs, the (Taj) 346Samarkand (Uz) 180Tajikistan 323, 366Turkmenistan 383, 402Uzbekistan 155, 222-4

religion 408-9, 414, 442-5, see also Islam, Sufism, individual countries

responsible travel 473-4Ridder (Kaz) 114Rishton (Uz) 168road names 57, 233rock climbing 44-5, 251,

297, 305Roof of the World

Festival 25

Rushan (Vomar) (Taj) 342Russia

border crossings 132, 134-5, 482-4

language 495-6relations with 121-2,

203-4, 217-18, 299, 300, 359-60, 397-8, 421, 423-9, 443-4

visas to 129, 224-5, 309

Ssafety 19, 474-5, see

also dangers, healthKazakhstan 128Kyrgyzstan 244, 305Tajikistan 363-4Turkmenistan 382, 401Uzbekistan 221

sailing 93, 255, see also rafting

Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 283Samanid dynasty 120, 217,

358, 414Samarkand (Uz) 11, 169-81,

170-1, 10-11accommodation 176-8drinking 178-9festivals & events 176food 178-9history 169-70information 180registration 180shopping 179sights 170-6tours 176travel to/from 180-1travel within 181

Sarvoda (Taj) 328-9Sary-Mogol (Kyr) 296-7Sary Tash (Kyr) 296Sarytag (Taj) 327-8Sauran (Kaz) 89Savitsky Museum

(Uz) 211-12Sayram (Kaz) 84-5Sayram-Ugam National

Park (Kaz) 86sea travel 484Semey (Semipalatinsk)

(Kaz) 115-18, 116Seven Bulls (Kyr) 268Shah-i-Zinda (Uz) 20, 173,

10-11Shaimak (Taj) 355Shakhrisabz (Uz)

181-3, 182Shakhty (Taj) 355-6Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97shashlyk 465

Sheikhantaur Mausoleum Complex (Uz) 139

ship cemeteryKazakhstan 91 Uzbekistan 215

Shokh Dara Valley (Taj) 347-8

Shymkent (Kaz) 81-4, 82shyrdaks 279, 446-7, 15silk factory (Uz) 167-8Silk Road, the 20, 421,

431-4, 484, 432-3, 412Skazka Valley (Kyr) 272slavery 203snow leopards 457snow sports 45, 46, 71-2,

159, 267, 287, 305, 326Sokuluk Canyon (Kyr) 252Soviet Union, see RussiaSpassk (Kaz) 112sport 306springs, see also

bathhousesBibi Fatima Springs

(Taj) 349 Chashma Spring

(Uz) 186Madiyan (Taj) 355

State Historical Museum (Kyr) 232

State Museum of Fine Arts (Kyr) 232

Stoddart, Colonel Charles 192

street names, 57, 233Sufism 444-5Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97Sultan Kala (Tur) 390-1

TTajikistan 50, 312-69,

314-15accommodation 312,

363activities 363arts 360-2border crossings 226-7,

295-6, 311, 348, 352, 356, 366-8

climate 312costs 313culture 356-8dangers 363-4drinking & nightlife

362-3economy 356-8embassies & consulates

364-5environment 362exchange rates 313

festivals & events 365food 321, 362-3highlights 314-15history 358-60internet access 365internet resources 313itineraries 313language 498Letters of Invitation 367literature 363money 365people 13, 360, 361, 437permits 34, 313, 366planning 312-13politics 356-8public holidays 365registration 366safety 363-4telephone services 366tourist information

346, 354travel seasons 312travel to/from 366-8travel within 368, 369visas to 130, 225, 309,

313, 367, 403weather 312wildlife 362

Tajikistan Independence Day 25

Tamchy (Kyr) 255Tamga (Kyr) 270, 271Tamgaly petroglyphs

(Kaz) 78Taraz (Kaz) 79-81, 79Tashkent (Uz) 139-58,

142-3, 157, 159accommodation 147-9drinking & nightlife 152entertainment 152-3food 150-2history 139information 154-5registration 155shopping 153-4sights 139, 144-7tours 155travel to/from 155-7travel within 157-8 visas 155

Tash Rabat (Kyr) 16, 20, 284-5, 16

taxis 158, 487tea 469telephone services

18, 475-6, see also individual locations

Termiz Archaeological Museum (Uz) 183-4

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

513IN

DEX T-U Termiz (Uz) 183-6textiles, see carpets

& textilesTian Shan Astronomical

Observatory (Kaz) 73-4Tian Shan (Kyr) 272-3, 7tiles 451, 454, see also

ceramics Timur (Tamerlane) 49,

417-18, 445, 451-2Konye-Urgench (Tur)

16, 394Otrar (Kaz) 87Samarkand (Uz)

11, 173, 174Shakhrisabz (Uz) 181-2Turkistan (Kaz) 17, 87-90,

Timurid dynasty 417-18tipping 472-3toilets 476Torugart Pass (Kyr)

284, 310-11, 284Tosor (Kyr) 271-2tourist information 476,

see also individual locations

Kazakhstan 68Kyrgyzstan 245, 263,

295Tajikistan 333, 346, 354Uzbekistan 180, 210

tours 488Almaty (Kaz) 61, 68-9Altay Mountains

(Kaz) 111Aral Sea (Uz) 212Aralsk (Kaz) 91Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95Bukhara (Uz) 195Darvaza Gas Craters

(Tur) 385Dolinka (Kaz) 112Dushanbe (Taj) 323Khiva (Uz) 207Korgalzhyn Nature

Reserve (Kaz) 107Kurchatov (Kaz) 118-19Kyrgyzstan 245-6Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7Samarkand (Uz) 176Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 283silk factory 167Spassk (Kaz) 112Turkmenistan 402-3wildlife 126, 356Yangykala Canyon

(Tur) 386Zapadno-Altaysky

(Western Altay) Nature Reserve (Kaz) 114

train travel 483-4, 488-9transport 478-89, see also

individual countriestravel documents 125, 464 travel insurance 470travellers’ diarrhoea 493travel seasons

Kazakhstan 52Kyrgyzstan 228Tajikistan 312Turkmenistan 370Uzbekistan 137

travel to/from Central Asia 478-85, see also individual countries, visas

travel within Central Asia 19, 485-9, see also individual countriesLetters of Invitation, permits, registration

trekking 14, 15, 20-1, 40-3, 14, 15

Ala-Archa Canyon (Kyr) 251

Almaty (Kaz) 74-5Altay Mountains

(Kaz) 111Arslanbob (Kyr) 287Central Tian Shan

(Kaz) 78, 272-3Dushanbe (Taj) 317 Fan Mountains

(Taj) 15, 327Jafr (Taj) 325Karakol (Kyr) 266-7,

268-9Karkara Valley (Kaz) 77Kyrgyzstan 305Lake Song-Köl (Kyr)

14, 273-5Naryn (Kyr) 282Tajikistan 363Tian Shan (Kyr) 272-3, Ugam-Chatkal National

Park (Uz) 158-9Zapadno-Altaysky

(Western Altay) Nature Reserve (Kaz) 114

Zerafshan Mountains (Taj) 327

tuberculosis 492TUK (Trekking Union of

Kyrgyzstan) 245-6Turabeg Khanym Complex

(Tur) 394-5Turkistan (Kaz) 17, 87-90,

88, 17Turkmenabat (Tur) 392-3,

392Turkmenbashi (Niyazov,

Saparmyrat) 398Turkmenbashi (Tur) 385Turkmenistan 50,

370-406, 372-3accommodation

370, 400activities 400arts 399border crossings

133, 227, 404-6climate 370costs 371customs 400-1dangers 382, 401drinking & nightlife

400economics 396-7embassies &

consulates 401environment 399-400exchange rates 371festivals & events

401-2food 370, 400highlights 372-3history 397-8internet access 402internet resources

371itineraries 371language 498-9literature 398media 400money 402peoples 399, 437-8permits 371, 403planning 370-1politics 396-7public holidays 401-2registration 383, 402religion 399safety 401telephone services

383, 402tours 402-3travel seasons 370travel to/from 404-6travel within 406visas to 130, 225,

371, 403, 404-5weather 370

Turkmenistan Independence Day 25

typhoid 492

UUgam-Chatkal National

Park (Uz) 158-60Ulugbek 418

Bukhara (Uz) 191

Samarkand (Uz) 170, 173, 174, 175

Shakhrisabz (Uz) 181-3, 182

underground mosquesBeket-Ata (Kaz) 95Hilvet (Kaz) 89 Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97Shopan-Ata (Kaz) 95 Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97

Unesco World Heritage Sites 452

Uralsk (Oral) (Kaz) 135Urgench (Uz) 200-2Urgut (Uz) 181, 4, 21Ust-Kamenogorsk

(Oskemen) (Kaz) 112-15, 112

Uzbekistan 49, 137-227, 140-1

accommodation 137, 221activities 221arts 220black market 223border crossings

133, 226-7, 311, 368, 406

climate 137costs 138dangers 221drinking 220-1economy 215-17embassies

& consulates 221-2environment 220exchange rates 138festivals & events 222food 137, 220-1highlights 140-1history 217-20internet access 222internet resources 138itineraries 138language 499media 221, 307money 222people 18-19, 219,

438-9permits 138, 224planning 137-8politics 215-17public holidays 222registration 222-4religion 219safety 221telephone services 224travel seasons 137travel to/from 225-7travel within 227

514

INDEX U

-Z

Uzbekistan contiinuedvisas to 130, 138, 224-5,

309, 366, 403weather 137

Uzbekistan Independence Day 25

Vvaccinations 491vegetarians & vegans

321, 469video 473visas 18, 31-4, see also

individual countries, Letters of Invitation, permits, registration

visas (Kaz) 53, 130-1, 224, 309, 403, see also Letters of Invitation, permits, registration

to Azerbaijan 129to China 129to Kyrgyzstan 129to Russia 129to Tajikistan 130to Turkmenistan 130to Uzbekistan 130

visas (Kyr) 129, 224, 229, 308-9, 403, see also Letters of Invitation, permits, registration

to Afghanistan 308to China 308to India 308-9to Iran 309to Kazakhstan 309to Russia 309

to Tajikistan 309to Uzbekistan 309

visas (Taj) 130, 225, 309, 313, 367, 403, see also Letters of Invitation, permits, registration

to Afghanistan 352, 366to China 366to Uzbekistan 366

visas (Tur) 130, 225, 371, 403, 404-5, see also Letters of Invitation, permits, registration

to Afghanistan 403to Azerbaijan 403to Iran 403to Kazakhstan 403to Kyrgyzstan 403to Tajikistan 403to Uzbekistan 403

visas (Uz) 130, 138, 224-5, 309, 366, 403, see also Letters of Invitation, permits, registration

to Afghanistan 224to Azerbaijan 224to China 224to Iran 224to Kazakhstan 224to Kyrgyzstan 224to Pakistan 224to Russia 224-5to Tajikistan 225to Turkmenistan 225

volunteering 131, 476Vrang (Taj) 350

WWakhan Valley (Taj)

13, 348-51, 4, 13Wakhani, Mubarak

Kadam 350 waterparks, see

also amusement parksAlmaty (Kaz) 60Dushanbe (Taj) 317Nurek Reservoir

(Taj) 326weather 18, 24-5, 18

Kazakhstan 52Kyrgyzstan 228Tajikistan 312Turkmenistan 370Uzbekistan 137

Western Europe–Western China Highway (Kaz) 134, 482

wildlife 24-5, 456-8Kazakhstan 123, 126Kyrgyzstan 303Tajikistan 362Turkmenistan 399-400Uzbekistan 220

Wild Nature (Kaz) 86women travellers 477work 477

YYagnob Valley (Taj) 329Yamchun (Taj) 349Yamg (Taj) 350Yangykala Canyon

(Tur) 386

Yasaui, Kozha Akhmed 84, 87-8

Yasaui Mausoleum (Kaz) 15, 88, 17

Younghusband, Francis 422-3

yurtstays 15, 20, 463, see also community-based tourism, homestays

Kyrgyzstan 228, 304Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 14,

274-5, 14Nurata (Uz) 186Tash Rabat (Kyr) 16, 20,

284-5, 16

ZZapadno-Altaysky (Western

Altay) Nature Reserve (Kaz) 114

Zerafshan Mountains (Taj) 326-33

Zerafshan Tourism Development Association (ZTDA) (Taj) 333

Zerafshan Valley (Taj) 330-1

Zhungarians 419-20Zong (Taj) 350Zoroaster 391Zoroastrianism 391, 444

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

519

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

Diving/SnorkellingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

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