designed by Sylvie Camps

Enclose your favorite gemstone beads with vintage-inspired bezels and accents

Victorian embraceBEAD WEAVING

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©2013 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.

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150 seed bead, color A

150 seed bead, color B

Sylvie Camps started beading seven years ago when she became acquainted with American Indian arts and crafts. Her first love is free-form peyote, which is very lacy and intricate. She sells her work at art shows and at www.etsy.com/shop/peyotebeadart as well as through her website, www.peyotebeadart.com.

materialsturquoise bracelet 71⁄2 in. (19.1 cm)• 4 15 x 20 mm oval gemstone beads (turquoise; www.firemountaingems.com)• 5 8 mm round beads (turquoise)• 10 100 seed beads (Czech, metallic bronze)• 150 seed beads 4 g color A (Miyuki 457L, metallic light bronze) 2 g color B (Miyuki 457, metallic gold)• clasp (gold)• 10 8 mm bead caps (gold)• nylon beading thread (such as Nymo), sizes 0 and D• beading needles, #12

jasper bracelet colors:• 15 x 20 mm oval gemstone beads (jasper; www.firemountaingems.com)• 8 mm glass pearls (peach)• 100 seed beads (Czech, metallic bronze)• 150 seed beads color A (Miyuki 345, color-lined fancy rose) color B (Miyuki 457, metallic gold)

stepbystepCaged beads[1] On 1½ yd. (1.4 m) of size 0 beading thread, pick up 32 color A 150 seed beads. Tie the beads into a ring with a square knot (How-tos), leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail, and sew through the first A again (figure 1, a–b).[2] Pick up two As, a color B 150 seed bead, two As, a B, six As, a B, and two As. Sew back through the first B and two As picked up in this step to form a loop, and continue through the next two As in the original ring (b–c).[3] Pick up two As, a B, and two As, and sew through the last B picked up in the previous step. Pick up six As, a B, and two As, and sew back through the first B and two As picked up in this step. Continue through the next two As in the original ring (c–d). [4] Repeat step 3 13 more times for a total of 15 loops (d–e).[5] Join the first and last loops as follows: • Pick up two As, a B, and two As, and sew through the last B picked up in the last loop (figure 2, a–b).

• Pick up six As, and sew through the second B picked up in the first loop (b–c). • Pick up two As, and sew through the first B and two As picked up in this step. • Sew through the next two As in the original ring (c–d), and continue through the beadwork to exit the 10th bead in a loop (d–e).[6] Pick up a B, and sew through the third and fourth As in the six-bead group at the tip of the next loop. Repeat this stitch to complete the round, and snug up the beads to form a cup. Insert a 15 x 20 mm oval bead into the cup, and retrace the thread path to secure the cup around the bead. Align the cup so that your needle is exiting a B adja-cent to the hole in the bead (photo a). [7] Pick up three As, sew back through the first two As, and continue through the B your thread exited at the start of this step, the next two As, and the following B along the edge of the cup (photo b). This completes the first spoke. [8] Repeat step 7 15 more times for a total of 16 spokes, and then sew through the beadwork to exit the last A of the first spoke. Make sure this spoke is adjacent to the hole in the bead.

The ornate bead caps and netted bezels in this bracelet are reminiscent of the Victorian era. But when combined with gemstone beads, the piece takes on a modern appeal.

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2

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[9] Close up the bezel as follows:• Without picking up a bead, sew through the last A in the next two spokes (photo c). • Pick up an A, and sew through the last A in the next spoke (photo d). Repeat this stitch three times. • Sew through the last A in the next four spokes without picking up a bead. • Pick up an A, and sew through the last A in the next spoke. Repeat this stitch three more times. • Sew through the last A in the next two spokes without picking up a bead (photo e). Retrace the thread path through all the beads in this step, using a firm tension to snug up the beads. End the working thread and tail (How-Tos). [10] Make a total of four caged beads.

Assembly[1] On 2 ft. (61 cm) of size D beading thread, pick up eight As and half of the clasp. Tie the beads into a ring with a square knot, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail.

Retrace the thread path through the ring, and exit any A.[2] Pick up a 100 seed bead, an 8 mm bead cap (narrow end first), an 8 mm round bead, a bead cap (wide end first), a 100, and a caged bead. Pick up this pattern three more times, and then pick up a bead cap (narrow end first), an 8 mm round bead, a bead cap (wide end first), a 100, eight As, and the other half of the clasp. Sew back through the last 100, and retrace the thread path through the entire strand. End the working thread and tail. w