Basic Radiant Design & Construction Manual

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Design and Construction Manual Basic Radiant Heat Pan

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Radiant Underfloor Heating Systems


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Radiant Heat Systems

Experience the comfort of warm floors. Imaginea warm basement, toasty bathroom floors, anddry garages.

Clean, quiet, dust and draft free radiant floorheating systems circulate warm water throughpipes under the floor.

Unlike complex commercial systems, Ba

Radiant technology enables you to desiand install your own floor heating syste

Basic Radiant panels contain all the hard to find parts professionally assembled, wired, and tesin one neat package - ready to install. And no sweating or soldering required!

The piping is proven, reliable cross linked polyethylene (PEX) used by professionals and featuon many home improvement programs. PEX has been successfully used worldwide for over

years.


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Underfloor radiant heat uses the floor to heat the building by raising the floor temperature untilthe heating output of the floor matches the heat loss of the building. This creates a confortableliving environment and is energy efficient.

MAJOR SYSTEM COMPONENTS

HEAT SOURCE Every hydronic heat system needs a source of heat.Basic Radiant panel systems are designed to be flexible and can be used witha domestic hot water heater or boiler. The type can be electric, natural gaspropane, or even wood fired, but the heat source output must be sized to matchthe total load. The load is the amount of heat required to heat the building.If you are using the heat source to supply domestic water also, this amount isalso part of the load.

BASIC RADIANT PANEL The BasicRadiant Panel is designed to control and pumpthe hot water through the floor. It includesa pump to move the water, a temperaturegauge, a relay to activate the pump and othercomponents. Some models include a timer tocirculate water periodically to avoid stalenessand a mixing valve to control the temperatureof the water. The panels are modular so that

multiple panels may be used for multipleheating zones.

MANIFOLDS The manifold divides the watercoming from the Basic Radiant Panel and distributesit to multiple circuits (or loops). Valves on eachloop allow you to balance the flow (and thereforeheat) between loops.


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DURA-PEX RADIANT FLOOR PIPING DURA-PEX pipe comeeither an oxygen barrier or standard grade. Both types of DURA-PEX offersame longevity and performance qualities. Typically, 1/2 inside diameter pipused and is pre-cut in 250 coils. Standard DURA-PEX is rated for potable wand heating where non-ferrous metals are present in the system. Barrier pip

used where it is important to restrict passage of oxygen into the system. Thcritical when using cast iron boilers.

FLUID Water is used in most radiant floor systems. In closed systems where periodic usage creates possibility of freezing, a stabilized glycol may be used in a 50 / 50 mix with water.

INSTALLATION METHODS

Slab on GradePour a minimum of 2 of concrete over the pipe onresidential installations, 3 on commercial jobs. Insulationis shown underneath and on the edges of the slab.

These handy clips hold DURA-PEX either to wire mesh orstyrofoam. Figure 75 clips per 250 loop of pipe:

Foam Clip# 98200

Mesh Clip# 98201

At the exit point from the slab, use plastic electrical conduitsweep elbows in 1 size to support the upward turn of

the pipe and protect the pipe from concrete finishingtools. The photo shows the elbows inserted in a pieceof cardboard to hold them during the pour. The pipe isinserted through these elbows and trimmed even. Groupsupply and return pipes together. Cover the above slabpipe with a garbage bag to protect against concretesplatters.


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Tubes go 8 on center (two runs between each set of joists). Place tube in thermal transfer plate and nail oscrew up to subfloor. This increases the heat transfer from the pipe to the floor.

Place batts of insulation under the tubes - but provide a 1 air space between the plates and the insulationFoil faced insulation is preferable - but not required.

The plates should be spaced from 1 - 6 apart end to end. At the end of each run, you can simply loopthe pipes underneath the joists. However, if the room below is to be finished or is unheated, it is necessarto drill holes and feed the pipe through the joists.

One way to perform this type of installation is to run a loop down one end of the joists (left drawing) Thein each joist pocket, draw a loop of pipe all the way down to the other end of the joists (right drawing).Then attach your plates.

Between Joists


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1. Maximum loop length is 250, there is no minimum length, try to make all loops the same lengthLoops should be coninuous pipe without splices or fittings in the concrete.

2. Maximum circuits per panel is 5 (RHP & RHP-1) or 10 (RHP-2)

3. Pipe size is 1/2 for circuits4. Pipe Size is 3/4 between the heat source, panel, and manifolds (RHP & RHP-1)5. Pipe Size is 1 between heat source, panel, and manifolds (RHP-2)6. Spacing on pipe is 12 between runs in concrete, 8 between joists...You may need closer

spacing in very cold climates, with high ceilings, or with less than excellent insulation...consultNIBCO for details

7. Assuming standard spacing, estimate 1 of pipe per square foot in a slab, 1.7 feet of pipe persquare foot if stapling up between joists 16 on center

Insulation

General Notes

Insulation is vital! Heat conducts to the coldest place - especially down into the ground.1. Place polyethylene moisture barrier on top of fill2. Under concrete, place 2 of extruded styrofoam3. In moderate cliamtes, place 1 of extruded styrofoam under concrete4. On outer edge of slab, place 1 of extruded polystyrene

Kits: Installation / Pressure Testing / Filling & PurgingKits are available from NIBCO for fast, easy panel installation , facilitate filling and purging, and enable apressure test. See page 11 for more details. Install Kit includes the manifolds, fittings, crimp rings, and other parts you need to connect your panel

to your heat source and floor heating loops. The Pressure Test Kit is re-useable and includes a pressure gauge and tire type fill vaIve so you can us

your air compressor to fill the system to 100 pounds for the pressure test. Then check the system in 24hours. Plus or minus 10 pounds may be expected from expansion and contraction of the pipe. Youmay choose to leave the pipes pressurized during a concrete pour so you can make quick repairs toan accidental puncturing of the pipe.

12129AP Fill and Purge Kit(Includes air eliminator)

The Fill and Purge Kit contains the valves andfittings for you to connect garden hoses for fillingthe system with fluid and for purging the air out.Also included is an air eliminator to screw onafter purging to pull out any remaining air in thesystem.

Important: Do NOT use bubble or foil type insulations under concrete


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Placing The PipeAbsolute precision is not necessary. A perfect arrangement is a waste of time. Use the following tips:

1. Do not cross tubes to avoid them being too shallow in the concrete

2. Keep tubes 6 from where a partition will go, otherwise someone may puncture tubes with anail or screw, otherwise use adhesive to attach partitions3. Place tubes on reinforcing wire grid and attach with plastic mesh clips every three feet. If

installing on styfrofoam, use foam clips to hold pipe every three feet. (see page 4).4. Ideally, initial runs should be along outside walls to deliver the most heat there5. Concentrate tubing some in areas like bathrooms where more heat is wanted6. At the entrance point to the slab, extend tubing up 2 -3 about 3-6 from an inside wall.

Space the tubes in a row 2 on center with the outflow tubes grouped together and the inflowtubes grouped together. This will simplify attaching the manifolds.

7. Seal the ends of the tubes with duct tape until the manifolds are attached to keep debris out.Cover ends with a garbage bag to protect against concrete splatters.

8. Tag the ends of the tubes with a description of their location e.g. Out to back bedroom, Infrom storage room etc.

9. You may fill the tubes with water before pouring concrete to help prevent them from floatingup to the surface, but take caution against freezing conditions!

10. Refer to the DURA-PEX Installation Manual and our web site atdurapex.com for moreinformation.

11. You should consult your boiler vendor and / or local building inspector for other tips or codeissues.

When you have purchased your system, NIBCO will prepare a customlayout at no additional charge.

Layout of DURA-PEX Pipe

Tubing Layout Sample

Field RepairsBefore covering the pipe, make a final inspection to detect kinks, cutsor slits. Repair or replace pipes as necessary. If you see a drop inpressure or bubbles appear during the pouring, stop immediately andrepair the pipe. Or, you may place a foam block in the contrete to keepthe pipe uncovered and then easily make a repair later.


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SunlightAll polyethylene pipe is sensitive to ultra-voliet rays and exposure to sunlight should be minimized. If Pewill be exposed where it enters the slab for anything more than a few days, cover it with garbage bags o

a similar light blocker.

Floor CoveringsFor best results, floor coverings should be consistent through each heating zone. If you have different type different rooms, you can run separate circuits in each room, and use the valves on each circuit for balancinthe heat distribution. Use of parquet or laminated wood products is acceptable, however you should usthe limiting sensor function of the Basic Radiant panel thermostat to prevent overheating of the floor. In ancase, check with the flooring manufacturer.

Never install a wood floor over concrete until after a month of operation. Heatinthe concrete the first time will drive excess water out, even on a slab months old. Th

water can cause major damage to wood floors

Total Length of 1/2 pipe x .00921 = ______ GallonsTotal Length of 3/4 pipe x .01837 = ______ GallonsTotal Length of 1 pipe x .03025 = ______ GallonsSize of water heater or boiler = ______ Gallons

Total System Volume = _____X .088

Minimum Expansion Tank Size = _____Gallons (round up)

You need an expansion tank if you have a closed system. A closed system maintains the same fluid in it at atimes. When the water is heated and expands, it needs a place to go, and the expansion tank fills that roIn contrast, an open system has water entering it via the municipal supply and water leaving it via plumbinfixtures. An open boiler (such as an outdoor, non-pressurized wood furnace) is also an open system. If yohave a backflow preventer, this creates a closed system and you will need a tank even if you have a diresystem.

To size your expansion tank, you first need to know how much water is in the system. See below:

Sizing an Expansion Tank


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TYPES OF SYSTEMS

Closed SystemA closed heating system is one where the fluid is self contained and remains in the system unless removed fomaintenance. The fluid is heated by a boiler or water heater. When the thermostat calls for heat, a pummoves fluid through the floor and returns it to the heat source until the thermostat is satisfied

RHP-2 Only


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Direct (Open) SystemA direct system uses the hot water source to provide both domestic hot water and radiant heat. A time

included with Basic Radiant Heat Panels RHP-1 & RHP-2, periodically moves water through the system off season to prevent a stale condition. A check valve may be necessary just before the fill valve to prevedomestic hot water being drawn through the floor.


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MATERIALS LISTFor most installations of Basic Radiant, the materials list is simple. It includes pipe, a Basic Radiant Panel, fitting kits, and tools. These modular kits include everything needed to install radiant heat. You just provid

the heat source. Instructions also included.

This chart covers most installations for concrete slab projects. Determine the amount of pipe footage - which in most cases is of pipe per square foot of space. In very cold climates or with higher than standard ceilings, consult with CPI for a custom quosince you may need closer spacing of the pipe.

HEAT REQUIREMENTSThe amount of heat needed for a structure (measured in BTUs / hour) is equal to the amount of heat lost fro

the structure during the same time period. Therefore you need to know the heat loss from your building order to size your heat source. Heat loss calculations can be quite involved, and there are numerous varables which can be incorporated to get an extremely accurate result. The following simplified version makcertain assumptions which, in general, concern standard building materials. If your situation is out of thordinary, consult a building professional or engineer. For wall and ceiling calculations, use square footagless windows, doors and skylights. Once the analysis is complete, you need a boiler or water heater rated this output. Do not forget to add the peak requirements of domestic hot water, if using a direct (open) systemThis is a guide only, and no guarantees are made that the results will be accurate. Consult your local codeand a building professional or engineer.

CLIPS:*Choose Barrier DURA-PEX if you are using a cast iron boiler, otherwise use standard DURA-PEX** The RHP model should be used for closed system only, water heater based installationsStyrofoam (#98200R25) 3 bags per loopWire Mesh (#98201R25) 3 bags per loop

250-1,250 1-5 100 --- (1) RHP (1) #11505AP (1) #12129AP (1) #11502AP (1) Combo Too#11000 or #88011(1) RHP-1 (1) Cutter #882#11001 **

1,500 6-10 5 100 (1) RHP-2 (1) #11506AP (1) #12129AP (1) #11502AP (1) Combo Too-2,500 #11002 #88011

(1) Combo Too#88012(1) Cutter #882

1/2 # 250 3/4 1 Panel Install Fill & Purge Pressure Test ToolsPipe Feet * Coils Feet Feet Kit Kit Kit (REUSEABLE)


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Average Seasonal Low Temperature> -20 -10 0 10 20

CEILING (unheated above)

A. R-11 Insulation 9 8 7 6 5

B. R-19 Insulation 6 5 4 3 2.6

C. R-30 Insulation 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.8

D. R-38 Insulation 3 2.5 2 1.8 1.5

_____ Factor x Sq. Ft. = ______

OUTSIDE WALLS

A. R-11 Insulation 9 8 7 6 5

B. R-19 Insulation 6 5 4 3 2.6

_____ Factor x Sq. Ft. = ______

FLOOR (unheated below)

A. Uninsul.Wood Frame w/ Crawl Space 21 18 15 12 10

B. R-11 Insulation Over Crawl Space 9 8 7 6 5

C. R-19 Insulation Over Crawl Space 6 5 4 3 2.6

D. R-30 Insulation Over Crawl Space 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.8

E. Uninsul. Wood Frame w/ Unheated Cellar 9 8 7 6 5F. R-11 Insulation Over Cellar 5 4 5 2.5 2.3

G. R-19 Insulation Over Cellar 3 2.5 2 1.5 1.3

H. R-30 Insulation Over Cellar 2 1.5 1 0.9 0.8

I. Uninsulated Slab On Grade 15 13 12 10 8.5

J. R-10 Insulated Slab On Grade 4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5

_____ Factor x Sq. Ft. = ______

WINDOWS/SKYLIGHTS

A. Single Glazed 90 80 70 60 50

B. Single Glazed With Storm 45 40 35 30 25

C. Double Glazed 45 40 35 30 25

D. Double Glazed (Low-E) 36 32 28 24 20

_____ Factor x Sq. Ft. = ______EXTERIOR DOORS

A. 2 Wood 40 35 30 26 22

B. 1.75 Steel With Insulated Core 40 30 30 26 22

_____ Factor x Sq. Ft. = ______

INFILTRATION

Note: Cubic Feet Used for This Calc.

A. Room With One Exterior Wall 0.7 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4

B. Room With Two Exterior Walls 1.1 1 0.9 0.8 0.6

C. Room With Three Exterior Walls 1.6 1.4 1.2 1.1 0.9

D. Bathroom 1.6 1.4 1.2 1.1 0.8

_____ Factor x CUBIC Ft. = ___

TOTAL BTUs / HOUR NEEDED: _______NIBCOs Customer and Technical Services Departments are available for comments, order placements, product information antechnical assistance 888-446-4226

Basic Radiant Design & Construction Manual

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