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Base Mapping and Water Analysis

Ben Stamats

+Base Mapping Process

I chose to use google maps to trace my base map. I was only able to zoom in until the scale read 1” = 50’. The scale I ended up using on my map was ½” = 25’ since this was an easier scale for the size of my garden. The garden I use is part of a larger farm so I put in features that were in close proximity to my garden area. This includes fruit trees just north of my garden, an asparagus patch east of my garden, a property line to the south (corn field), and a gravel road to the west. I realized that its pretty tough to define garden lines on the property so I had to estimate a little as to where the crops actually begin. Best example would be the asparagus. There are no defining boarders. As for my plot, since I work this ground most frequently, it was easier to map the garden and trace it out.

+Base Map

+Water Summary

My area receives 34” of precipitation yearly. We have a fairly consistent distribution of precipitation throughout the year although from May-June it is generally wet. I would call this our wet season. August- October would be our dry season.

Our local watershed is called the Lower Wapsipinicon Watershed. It is located regionally within the Upper Mississippi Watershed.

My garden has Tama soil. It is a pretty slow draining soil. It takes about 10 days for the moisture to disperse or evaporate. The high water table sits about 5 feet below the topsoil.

The water flows through my site generally from the SW and leaves the garden in the NE. I do have a northern sloped garden which is no ideal although it is such a small grade that it does not cause growing problems. The issues I am worried about are potential pollution from the water running off the gravel road from the west into my garden. Another worry is the corn farmer to the south who may have some pesticides running off in the SW corner of garden.

+Water Analysis Map

+Water Management

The most prominent thing I have learned in regards to water management at my site is the use of swales. I think this would be the most practical since I have such a large area of land to work with with not too many obstructions. I could dig a trench on the west side and the south side of the garden with a tractor. A checkmark swale would be my choice since I could easily get that shape with the three-point plow we use on the tractor.

Rain barrels are another good technique since the well is so far away from my plot. According to my scale, the well is 150-200 feet away from my garden. This is too lengthy for me to want to set up irrigation. I believe I could set up pairs of water barrels up around my garden. Maybe one in each corner for a total of 8 barrels.

Water pollution is the only concern I have at the moment with my site. The run off from the gravel road is where most the pollutants would come from although I’m not sure exactly how much reaches my garden. I just know that they use limestone gravel and the city also sprays an oil to keep dust levels down.